A trip to the south-eastern Sicily: a dive ina a sea of... Nero d'Avola

The day we booked the flight Bologna-Catania we said: "We hope that Etna does not just wake up on August 6!"
What to say ... August 4th Mount Etna erupts, and throughout the day following the Catania airport is closed. Fortunately, the 6 am and reopens at 8 pm our flight leaves regularly.
Once in Catania, completion of various formalities for the withdrawal of the car booked via the internet site www.rent.it, we start on our Fiat Ulysses 7 people at a time of White Fountains. In fact we are headed towards the inner zone of Cassibile where, with www.homelidays.it, we rented a Villon on a hill overlooking the sea. The owners, very kind, we have waited until late in the evening and welcomed us with water and cold drinks and a pizza pan, to confirm, if ever it were needed, the best Sicilian hospitality.

 

Our first day we explore the nearby White Fountains really clear with the beautiful beach and clear water despite the large number of people. For lunch we take vegetables, fruit, bread and pasta and we're going to enjoy the breeze on our veranda overlooking the sea, with the cicadas in the background ... then "bottom time" was not! The afternoon was dedicated to Avola and Lido in our wanderings we reach the old trap, ideal set for our first photo shoot. When mothers and children decide to end the day in the lovely beach of the trap, the two fathers decide to continue the tour, which ends in a well-stocked wine shop nearby, including tastings and purchases of locally produced wines. For dinner we head to think Avola city that presents itself with lights, music and the stage with a lot of people walking around eating ice cream and slush ... but no restaurant nearby. After a frantic search we give up and ask the lords of the place that they tell us that dinner is done in the Lido restaurants on the sea here than you can take refreshment with the balls, in a bar on the square. And go to the bar ... However, where we ate the most delicious arancini throughout the holiday. We close the evening with a stroll under the lights, in the background with a performance of "Ciccio Capasso," watching the shop windows carefully closed.

We decide to head straight to the beach of San Lorenzo, considered by many tourists in the network, one of the most beautiful. Unfortunately, given our skin is too white, too much heat of midday, the umbrella for all six small rolls too dry ... and the beach has remained in the background. Indeed it is very beautiful, clear blue water and sand, but now too urbanized. Where will never turtles lay their eggs a few years ago? Between an umbrella and the other? Among the boardwalks of bars, restaurants and a gazebo? Perhaps the off season you can live differently, but in August .....
To pull ourselves back into the fold, we start at about 18:00 at a time of Ortigia, the island is the historic center of Syracuse. Ortigia is beautiful and the sunset gives the highest degree. We stroll along the seafront towards the ancient Fountain of Arethusa, where grows the papyrus plant, among the narrow streets, in the central square and then we stopped to dine with Don Caramel, where we taste the delicious spaghetti at Syracuse. After dinner, a trip to buy some 'sweets and typical products, and stop to taste the first time the excellent mulberry ice drink.

Drive to the beach of Eloro, the further north within the Nature Reserve of Vendicari. Behind the beach there is a river that ends just below the sand, very unusual. The water is crystal clear and the beach is not too crowded. Around 14.30 pm we head back home where water had lunch with the Nero d'Avola, which brings us straight to the rest, who on the veranda, who in bed and who hammock in the woods. At approximately 17.30 Departure for Noto.
We are able to park near the "stage" of the country, almost at the gates of the center. In Noto's hot, humid but it is the city of Sicilian Baroque, Unesco, made ??amends in the heat. And 'an open-air museum with its palaces and Baroque churches along the cobbled streets, the Cathedral which stands on top of a staircase with three flights and the street with balconies Nicolaci famous for sculptures that support them. Noto is busy, there are so many kids out of chat rooms, listening to music of all kinds, various events are organized in the street and art shows. We stop for a drink in the old Cafe Milano, because here you dinner from 21.00 onwards and for dinner we can make a rip exaggerated in a small restaurant on Main Street! Sooner or later it had to happen!

Today there are a few 'cloud so I take the opportunity to go to Ragusa. We turn to the streets, visit the Cathedral and the Square and right next door, behind a building next to the bar is lower than the level of the square, we find a shop selling local products, small local businesses run by young willing, enthusiastic and proud of their land. We taste everything and go out with chocolates, preserves and liqueur pods that are the fruit of the carob tree, a tree typical of the area that grows a little 'everywhere. We continue the tour in the early afternoon, arriving in Modica and there we were, a little 'bare and deserted, except for the main street with many shops where we stock up on chocolate bars for all tastes of Modica possible. The chocolate of Modica has the distinction of not melt at high temperatures in summer, so it does not contain butter, and flavored, is friable and rich in grains of sugar. It 'can then flavored with special flavors like pepper, pistachio and carob precisely. Modica leave with the conviction that much more impressive at night, illuminated and nestled on the mountain.
On the way back we stop at the beach a dutiful, Cava d'Aliga, with the sea very rough which will continue the next day.
The homecoming a surprise in store for us. A fire (one of many at this time) started from the street below our house and came to our garden, burning half and fortunately stopped before the house! What a strange feeling of fear and relief at the same time! We were not there but the owners, alerted by neighbors, were always there monitoring the situation until the complete extinction of the fire and have informed us (way home) only to "narrow escape"!

Today we are going to Calabernardo, a town just north of the Noto. The beach is large, quite deep and behind, among dense vegetation, a river that flows into the sea following the edge of the beach. Even today the sea is very rough and tiring after a short bath in order to resist the waves, we lie in the sun and watch a family of ducks swimming undisturbed in the quiet waters of the river behind us. After a refreshing shower located on the edge of the beach, towards the road where the car park, we head for the Lido di Noto for lunch. We found a lovely little restaurant on the beach, the sea in Lido Azzurro Hostaria. We eat fish entrée, a first head and three fried and we go out for food is very pleased that the bill ... 16 € each.
We end the afternoon in the beach (the largest) of Noto, music and beach tennis tournaments and we are going to spend the evening in our villa.

Morning spent in the archaeological area of ??Syracuse, where we find a beautiful park in the shade, at the entrance of low archaeological park. Here are a bar and a restaurant, then along the road leading up to the entrance ticket to the upper reaches. Children under 18 years so we do not pay the caviamo with 4 tickets for 10 euros and we are reaching the Latomie of Paradise, old quarries, where is the Ear of Dionysus, which is a cave with special acoustics, so named by Caravaggio because of its shape and where legend has it that Dionysius held the prisoners locked up for listening to their speeches even in a low voice.
We walk along tree-lined avenues and then, to our surprise, fresh and airy, and after visiting the Roman amphitheater come to the magnificent Greek Theatre. Completely excavated in the rock was able to hold up to 15 000 spectators and is still several thousand people attend the performances held there during the summer months. We take lots of pictures and then we head back home foretaste already a mega-salad. After lunch we move to the first Marzememi stopping along the rocky coast for our daily dose of sun and sea and heading towards the evening, in the quaint and charming fishing village. Leave the car in the parking lot just outside the village, we reach the eighteenth century square surrounded by buildings and paved, and night comes alive with Ritorante, bars and shops. The waterfront then, full of shops and restaurants, see a bustle of people walking or sitting in bars for a slush or ice cream or, like us, the pastry Cyclops, to make us a giant cannoli with ricotta cheese with a glass raisin Noto ... a delight for the palate, a disaster for the line! It means that tomorrow we will take a long walk in the water!

The ideal place for a stroll on the beach is right in the trap Vendicari Reserve. We are located in the central area of ??the Reserve, you reach the beach after a short walk on boardwalks to preserve the vegetation behind the beach and you see the marshes that are stopping in marshes where migrating birds on their journeys between Europe and Africa. The area has walking trails established and hence also a path, with a long walk, get to the beach Calamosche. The beach stretches of tuna, sickle-shaped, several hundred meters even if the part farthest away from the trap is fenced and not accessible, always to preserve the ecosystem of the area. I read in several travel stories that this beach is not particularly popular, because of Poseidon is deposited on the shore in rather large piles that produce an odor not exactly pleasant. We have fully enjoyed this beautiful beach instead, avoiding certain to spread towels on the algae, but appreciating the fact that the presence of these plants allows the water is crystal clear and pure. After countless sunbathing and sea we headed towards the trap while walking among the ruins of this kind of industrial archeology discovered (well why not shown) behind its walls, the center of Vendicari, with staff ready to give information and propose guided or guided tours of the reserve or the surrounding area. Maybe if we had known earlier we could have booked some excursions or activities organized, but they were past the 13 and the center was closing.
After the day at the beach, spend the evening at Avola cities in search of the "Festival of swordfish" and after a series of turns more or less round, saw that the streets of Avola intersect with one another without a logical connection (at least for us ...) we reach the goal and once we give up the taste of people having rows with the mileage, tray in hand! Patience, we console ourselves with a tour of the many street stalls and extremely well equipped, and paid a HUGE ice cream, including our unbelief, 2.20 euros.

We decided the strategy for the weekend of August! Avoid two full days at the beach.
Perfect Sunday, August 14 so today we escape to the interior of Sicily at the time of Piazza Armerina. The morning program includes a visit to the Villa Romana del Casale and in the afternoon, a visit to Piazza Armerina to see the Palio of the Norman. Crossed one of the most different landscapes, from fertile and cultivated areas to dry and barren hills to mountain areas with dense vegetation, we arrive at the famous Villa of Casale, famous for the large quantity and quality of its ancient mosaic floors 4500 square meters large. Unfortunately half of the site is being restored and so for half the ticket, we see 50% of the villa open to the public. Fascinating and realistic drawings depicted reveal habits, customs and stories of people who lived over 1500 years ago but incredibly modern.
The walk in the center of Piazza Armerina takes us to a restaurant in a courtyard of Via Floresta, overlooking the rooftops of the city, which leaves us astounded by the beauty of its interiors and furnishings, the abundance of its course and, above all 'cheapness of its price! We all took a first and a side dish, there was brought to a kind of plateau in the meantime, water, wine, coffee and liqueur final basil, for a total amount of 70 euros for 6 people!
At about 17 they started to march through the streets, drawn from various quarters, figures in medieval dress (nobles, soldiers, soldiers, knights, commoners) who have reached the stage where the tournament would be held. We witness the flag-waving performances, groups of players, simulations of battles and in addition, the celebrations of the 150 ° views of the Unification of Italy, also a display of acrobatic air force. Practically everything we see but the heat, dust, fatigue, missing the 2 hours before the real prize and almost 2 hours of travel for the return, make us lose out on their way to the house where we expect a wonderful barbecue to celebrate the night of August. And thus with spicy sausages, cakes, cannoli, Nero d'Avola red wine and sweet almond, we conclude in joy this day.
To the delight of the boys have decided that tomorrow, August, you sleep as you want!

Today, August, relaxing morning and late afternoon we decided to reach a beach close to our area, we have read on some travel journals, but little known or publicized, the ciciri.
In fact, we arrive at about 17.00 on a beach frequented mainly by locals, still "camped" by lunch on the beach in August. The beach is just south of Avola Lido is large enough to be closed houses and houses that, in spite of any plan, are built right on the beach! However, the sea is crystal clear and calm, and enjoy the beach that slowly become depopulated, until the disappearance of the sun after a pink sunset.

This morning it was the turn of the beach Calamosche, so much praised and photographed by many tourists and travel magazines.
Along the road leading to the main entrance of Vendicari, before reaching the junction for Vendicari, there is a road on the left (marked with a sign and an arrow on the walls on either side of the road) that leads to the parking lot of Calamosche. From here the walk begins about 25 minutes on a path that joins, towards the end, with what comes from tuna Vendicari.
The location is almost everything under the sun except a few trees in which to make an eventual break but when you get close to the beach, the view is very beautiful. Calamosche, as the name implies, is a cove wedged between two cliffs that unfortunately in August can not be appreciated as it should. Coming soon enough you can put the umbrella back to the shore but surely after a while 'there will be someone who in spite of your unbelief, it planted even further .... how is it possible? Just looking back not even see the stairs that lead to the path, if you look up, you can see just pieces of colored umbrellas, tents and marquees, if you look down a forest of legs and bodies relaxed, makes you feel ... but like a sardine out of the water and thus towards the 13.00 we decided to gather our rags and greet with some 'regret and disappointment, a beautiful beach ...
After the walk to return to the parking lot before leaving the parking lot we liked the bar / restaurant that is located next to the car park itself, where we quaff some with granite, some with beer, refreshed, and sat in the shade of its trees at a table in place cool and breezy.
In the evening we go for a ride in Noto.

It is currently in preparation for the excursion to the Natural Reserve of Cavagrande Cassibile, a protected area that includes a stretch along 10 km of one of the major rivers of south-eastern Sicily (the Cassibile), which has generated in its flow , a canyon among the largest in Europe, which reaches a maximum depth of 300 meters.
Continue for Avola, from Avola Antica and following the directions, after about ten kilometers uphill and between turns, you reach the entrance of the reserve where he began the descent on foot, to the river and natural lakes formed in the bottom of the valley. Access is prohibited unless you have actually closed shoes and a pair of tennis shoes are needed because the steps and sloping paths have a very high and the ground is uneven. If by chance you forget, the bar directly opposite the entrance selling plastic sandals with straps closed ... better than nothing!
Matches equipped with a rich supply of liquid and keep a bottle for the ascent. The descent to the main lakes (the most beautiful but most crowded) takes about 45 minutes and as many more are used to lift, but if you add the necessary stops to take breath or to rest your legs, for the return should allow about 1 hour and a quarter. Then of course depends on the shape and the season in August .... We have also witnessed a panic attack in the middle, with the subsequent rescue by helicopter (the reserve is equipped with two landing sites for helicopters), but the Walk like normal "mountain walking" ... you just start with this awareness.
But after so much effort has been rewarded by the wonder of the place; ponds dug in the tuff that fall into each other by small waterfalls, clear water, green and fresh and places where you can dive with spectacular twists. We spend the morning to bathe in the lakes, natural sitting down to enjoy a massage at the points where the water flows through a pond and another, or watching the camera and return with diving competition of the most daring.
In the early afternoon when it is not recommended to go back .... we decided to go back. Fortunately along the way there are many break points and many areas in the shade and well ventilated all the effort and some pressure differential, we reach the top, tired but happy!
On the way back we stop in for our Fountains White "dose of the beach" and then we conclude the evening at a restaurant on the beach, enjoying the sunset over the pizza.

Today is the time we reach the far south of the island and then Pachino currents, a small island connected to the mainland by an artificial passage. And 'the point ldella land which lies to the south of Italy, dividing the sea between the Ionian and Mediterranean: a most moved, the other more calm. A warmer, colder than the other. And 'the place we liked best. We reach the great beach Carratois and we can not resist the turquoise water appears to our eyes, we walk on the beaches of the two seas and photograph all shades of blue that we see. But because the most beautiful place we find always the last day of vacation? Now is a constant of our trips!
In the afternoon we visit Portopalo and we enjoy a granita with brioche round classic that is usually consumed at breakfast, then a ride to the port and departure to visit Marzememi sunset that leaves us fully satisfied, but very green, we saw that a fine from 206 euros to have parked in an area (not well signposted) the property of the state!

Today is the last day of vacation and go to the beach of the Marchioness of Cassibile Gelsomineto in the Pineta. The beach is surrounded by a beautiful pine forest, but if you want to go with the car the price of parking is 10 euros so because we want to stay only a few hours, parked along a side street and reach the beach on foot.
The beach is nice but does not compare with the beach Carratois saw her yesterday that, after the last ration of sun and sea, we're going home. We use the afternoon to accommodate luggage and home and spend our last evening on the beach. The heat is high and after a hearty snack, we head towards the 19 to the beach of Fontane White and stay there till 21.30, transformed for the occasion, the famous midnight swim in the mid-evening bath.

Today we leave the house that welcomed us for these two weeks and after seeing the very kind hosts, we reached Catania. The return flight is tomorrow morning, so today we dedicate the morning to the Riviera of the Cyclops and Aci Trezza and afternoon and evening in Catania city.
We conclude our stay at Old Palm www.venere.it booked on Etna and greet flying over the summit with the return flight Bologna-Catania.