At home of Sybil!... Traveling around Monti Sibillini National Park

This journey is inspired by a publication Ente Parco dei Monti Sibillini, precisely, "Riding in the park", which describes the major mountain biking in the park and the Great Ring of the Sibillini route in 5 stages all develop ' around the chain allows the tourist to see all the main cultural and natural attractions of the park.
The Monti Sibillini National Park for several years, represent one of the most interesting and varied mountain ranges of the Apennines. Poorly considered by tourism also because of its difficult accessibility, it collects in its territory several respects from the more naturalistic (spectacular blooms, presence of rare animals like the goshawk, golden eagle and the wolf and endemic species as chirocefalo Lake Pilate) to that historic and sacred (the slope of Norcia with all the churches and monasteries in the villages around). Further charm comes from the legend that over the centuries have told these territories, always known as the kingdom of demons and fairies leave no doubt dell'Infernaccio names such as gorges or the same name "Monti Sibillini" (it is said that the Sibyl lived here in a cave). Visit these places in mountain biking can better appreciate all this: the contact with nature is the total number of tracks, paved and dirt roads through the territory by linking the various villages and allowing to pass through meadows and mountains in a panoramic and human presence is so low that we have rarely met people along the route except in countries.


Itinerary Notes

The publication of the park showing the route of the Great Ring, nicely describes the flora and fauna of any place as much as the most important cultural aspects of each stage, but it is very poor in details both on the slopes of roads, both on the bottom of them. We have done so to buy the map of the paths of the park, 1:50000 scale, for use in the pouch in front of the bike for comfort, and the scale 1:25000, which is also more current, on which we relied in case of doubt. The maps have allowed us to deviate from stretches of road we already appeared on paper to be too unmanageable mountain-bike trails, others have "suffered" the-spot who had thought that perhaps he had the route process in its entirety by bicycle. A glance at the diary changes and segnalate.Sottolineiamo main difficulties were also many descents and some parts in "single-track" would be certainly more pleasant if you do not have the bags to the following: to control the shaking of some rocky descents and l 'lateral dimensions in the paths of the awards smaller, we have slowed down a lot. So if you have a friend who wants to follow in their holiday but is not interested in turning the Sibillini bike, make sure you let him follow in the car and the luggage you'll have a lot more! Maybe he a bit 'less ...
In any case we can ensure that the route is a total monster of a pleasure for fans of the 2 wheels!
In principle, the paths and trails are full of reports, many of which lie in hiking the Great Ring, who travels on foot and is more external than mountain biking. If in doubt make sure to refer to houses in the park, have more or less in every country, where the staff will always advise on the itinerary and date on the state of the roads. It 'always useful also leave word at the start which path you intend to do and where you want to arrive so that in case of problems is easier to be tracked: we insist that in the woods and mountains in August, we met very few people!
Our route is divided into 6 stages instead of 5, this to allow a hike on Mount Carrier walk in the third day.


Accommodations

In general we recommend to take account of the park shelters, all very recent, comfortable and in excellent position, both for those who ring the Sibillini for hiking and biking in who does what. Other shelters and homes for holidays are found in some countries of the park.

Fiastra: Refuge of Tribbio (Tel / Fax: 0737527027 rifugio@alcina.it)
Structure recently; rooms from 6-8 persons with bath in room or outside. And 'the refuge of the start and finish of our tour, just down the dirt road that descends to Fiastra, a few steps from the town, the shelter is in a quiet location and is accessible by car, so we could leave our half with one part baggage in their car park for 6 days of the tour by mountain bike. Maintained by Michael in collaboration with other young Fiastra, we received a friendly welcome. On returning there was no room and we slept in a tent next to the refuge at a plateau with the wild boars that roamed around us! Be taken into consideration for lunches and dinners. 18 euros per person for bed and breakfast, 15 for dinner.

Loving: Casa per Ferie Phyllis (Lega Ambiente) - (Via Independence, 73 Tel 0736847294 fillide@tin.it)
Located in the heart, this holiday home is also a center for environmental education. Kitty, a person who runs it, we met with sympathy and allowed to keep the bike inside the house in a room. Affordable and spacious rooms with bath.

Colle Montegallo: Refuge of the Col Cese (Tel 0736807016)
Colle Montegallo is a fraction consisting of a dozen stone houses that look out onto a small square with a fountain at a height of 1000 meters or so. The shelter then, as the country is situated in a fantastic location, and strategic for any excursions on the Monte Vettore and Sibyl. Unfortunately the management does not enthusiastic, especially in dealings with customers. Dinner discrete, consider that there is no choice in town; breakfast when the staff wants to get up.

Forca di Presta: Rifugio degli alpini (Tel 0736809278 Cell 3470875331).
Located about 1500 meters, in front of the Monte Vettore (reachable in one hour and forty minutes to walk) is visited by many hikers interested in capturing the main peaks of the group. You can also reach by car and offers an excellent view over the plain of Castelluccio. But the real value added is Gino, the manager, known by everyone in the park and even beyond the borders of the same. Sarcasm typical Roman spares no reviews (we were the "panting" for the record!), Is capable of telling hilarious anecdotes in bursts, is helped by his son in the management rasta who dreams of opening a noodle in costa de la luz in Spain ... Excellent dinner, prices around 35 euros breakfast and dinner included.

Serravalle di Norcia: Hotel Italy (Tel 0743822267 care: the number reported in the brochures by ATP data is wrong! Info@albergonorcia.it) There is no denying that it was a fallback choice, finding free places to sleep in Norcia the evening of Assumption. Expensive in relation to the other night of vacation, not the average of Norcia and its surroundings. The operator also owns the bar where they appear beside sandwiches that do not pass the test anti-doping. Shelter for the housing of the bike.

Lived: Hotel Elena (Via Rosi, 20 Tel info@hotelristorantelena.com 07,379,277)
Again no other choice. Elegant hotel, prices are not exaggerated. Bike kept in a room on the ground floor. Super Breakfast

 

First Stage: Fiastra (756 m) - Amaldola (535 m) 40 km 926 m in altitude.

This stage is based on that described in the publication of the park, except for the final stretch to Garulla Loving it, in which it was diverted to the track on Vidoni and rock channel. The climb to the meadows of Ragnolo (1520 m) is paved with little traffic and drive, tough at the beginning (treatment is indicated at 15%) becomes progressively softer until you reach the meadows. Agrees to stock up on water at Acquacanina, where there is a fountain of water along the road very good (as we happen everywhere here in the park) and quite chilly. The lawns are ideal for sunbathing and alfresco areas by children for playing with kites. The descent from a Pintura Garulla, dirt is pretty bad in the last part, with rough terrain full of rocks and crossed the center of the trail. No difficulty of orientation. For Amaldola we tasted the "shit" at the party unity of the country, a name that made us dream than the reality of the food.

Second Stage: Amandola (535 m) - Colle Montegallo (1015 m) 46 km 1100 m of elevation gain.

The course is very varied and passes through many little villages and never get too much altitude, but with continuous ups and downs. We added the deviation to the Gorges dell'Infernaccio (beautiful, but those of a monastery Fiastrone are much more savage still unknown and passable only by walking in the water!) Being easily accessible by mountain bike via a dirt road off a slight rise, being careful to all those that cross it on foot. From Amandola after a stretch of dirt road climb on asphalt Cossudro, touring around the beautiful village of Montefortino, up to Colle Regnone (nice village) and Montemonaco. Citadel fell to fast on a dirt road, where vegetation has been completely ruined by fire, another of this year, we wanted to follow the path indicated in the guide. Well, avoid it. This is a dirt road that looks more like the bed of a stream by the disaster, leading to Propezzano through 3 km of very tough climb, made all to push the bike. Even without the bags is impossible to do more than a few meters in the saddle, I wonder if whoever wrote the guide I have ever walked this mule. Exhausted by this tremendous effort, we headed to Montegallo for asphalt and kept the remaining energy to get to Hill, after 2 km climb that seems to go on longer. Automobile traffic in the street by only a Montemonaco Montegallo.

Third Stage: Col Montegallo (1015 m) - Rifugio degli Alpini (1520 m) 13 km 850 m in altitude.

Stage very short but very busy day in terms of physical. You start not trusting the path of the guide and preferring a dirt road that seems wider and easier, but after 2 miles, the surprise: a landslip has eaten the trail and we wandered among the rocks and pine trees off the ground repeatedly for our means overcome obstacles. We are already tired. We continue to Colle Galluccio fall for a beautiful dirt road and then climb up to the Mountain Refuge for a smooth asphalt road at first, but increasingly challenging as you approach the brow. We stop at the Alpine Hut in conditions such that the operator can not nicknamed "The panting! We finish here the bike leg to have the opportunity to walk near Mount Vettore and see the lake of Pilato (700 m rise). Other views massacred the slopes of the path, luckily the clouds save us from the sun that would be sheer above us. The trail, though brutal in its ramp to the point of having to use my hands in some surf to go up, allows us to observe the plateau of Castelluccio from an ideal point of view. This place, the moon in August, is actually a pole of attraction for many tourists at the end of May when it blooms for 1-2 weeks, coloring the entire horizon of all hues that Mother Nature has provided. It 'incredible to observe this plain, 1300 meters high, surrounded by steep mountains that rise: how to have an empty swimming pool before us, and indeed it is what remains of the rear of the
lake. In the mountains before us have left a forest of conifers that resembles the shape of Italy, with lots of islands!
Lake Pilato takes its name from a legend that says that the corpse of the famous Roman procurator, having been killed on the orders of the emperor, had been transported here from a cart pulled by buffalo and dropped into the lake, from time spent the devils, so that throngs of necromancers and wizards until recently would meet near these waters to practice their sorcery. The lake is very beautiful and sees among its inhabitants a pet is very similar to shrimp, chirocefalo. It has the characteristic of living only in these waters, also their eggs may hatch over a period of 8 years, depending on environmental conditions: in short, if I'm glad I was born but if I see that it is too cold or that aspect next year after that! Convenient! Unfortunately now the lake has almost dried up and need to be seen climbing on the ridge of Cima del Lago or down after the pass Zilioli (2200 m) until the lake itself (1940 m).
The evening in the refuge is delightful: I knew a guy who is going to Bologna Forli to Gargano mountain bike through the main peaks of the Apennines, the follow-up tent! But two motorcyclists in Jesi, very nice, telling us of life in their town.

Fourth stage: Forca di Presta (Mountain Refuge 1520 m) - Serravalle di Norcia (530 m) 32 km 200 m

It 'almost a day of rest (the other part is Ferragosto!), After a nice dirt road at a height, which rises from the gallows until Canapine Norcia, the first part consists of a long downhill asphalt (half an hour plenty!) , the second is pleasant and dirt roads near Norcia. From here in Serravalle proceed along the Salaria, quite busy, slightly downhill. Let us down a dirt road just after the fork Canapine, this itinerary suggested by the guide, because the map seems too steep and more like a path to a mule. Beginning to feel the heat. But there is another guest whom we had lost track since we arrived here on Sibillini: traffic! Hear the honking of cars on the street asking Norcia has displaced: we were no longer used!
During the day we visit Norcia: nice town but really crowded with tourists in Mid-August (so much so that we had to fall back on Serravalle to find a place to sleep!). Piazza San Benedetto, wedged between the Basilica, the Cathedral and the Town Hall, is a gem. Also of note is the auditorium of St. Francis, where he has an altarpiece by Jacopo Siculus recently restored by itself worth the visit to the village. Dinner of black truffles to the restaurant "From the French". Would recommend!

Fifth stage: Serravalle (530 m) - Visso (607 m) 36 km 1100 m of altitude difference

This stage will be the most challenging, but also the most varied and rewarding, for the villages visited as much as for nature and landscapes covered. Even the dirt roads that we travel are among the most interesting of the tour, with difficulties of every kind and level. The Umbrian side of the park welcomes us with a succession of villages on the side of the mountains bordering the valley that leads to Nursia Preci. Beautiful villages, now abandoned by the inhabitants, moved mostly in Rome or in the main towns of Umbria you want to work for the last earthquake of 1997. A Collescille talking with a guy (the only match of the day!) Who returns to town in summer only because this is still the home of his, he tells us who live permanently in the country only 3 families and to have Collescilli is virtually unreachable by car because of ice and snow. The only church is in danger after
earthquake and running water is scarce in summer. In spite of all these villages are beautiful, surrounded by churches, abbeys, monasteries and convents, all in isolated places and immersed in nature. It starts with a bang, or there teaspoon at night a classic Umbrian-Marche earthquake, in a hotel that was razed by the earthquake 10 years before ... uh ...
After a visit to the brands of Norcia, the particular environment where the water gushes a bit 'anywhere, comparable to our resurgent Venetian, but used since the Middle Ages for the cultivation of the plain, the ascent to the fork of Ancarano (1008 m). It is on asphalt, pedal smoothly apart from the persistent heat already in the morning. Gave up the dirt road that leads to the gallows in order to avoid inflating the prominent of the difficulties step. From the pass begins a dirt pleasant and varied, which leads us to the villages of the Rock Footer and Head of the hill through thick woods, with a fund that continuously varies from stony to fly, but still quite agile and slightly downhill. Once in the village of Campi admire old field, well preserved, and the church of San Salvatore (710 m), which stands in an isolated position in the middle of the valley. Incredible beauty of this monument and the complete absence of tourism in the surrounding area, but we do this we can only be happy! Fields is the only place where you can do a little 'stock of food and energy, very useful given the difficulties that lie ahead. Every village has a fountain instead of water supplies, but that of Collescille is very low and warm in summer. From field begins a very steep dirt road (a drive) that after a couple of miles becomes a single-track technical and interesting, but unfortunately impractical with the bags. We have to proceed with the bike in hand, because the risk of slipping off the path down into the valley for several meters is tangible. The bags with the rear wheel to force us out often from home. This is definitely challenging for the first hole! And find a sufficiently wide to change the tube is not easy. I still remember the words of the guide: "Flat dirt road" and "minor ups and downs", as it was described this stretch of the route! Once in Acquaro popped out of the woods and we can contemplate the incomparable Benedictine abbey of Sant'Eutizio. Hence, for a quite demanding asphalt and everything under the sun going up to Collescilli (944 m). The heat is unbearable, the road is cemented within the country and with slopes
above 15%, we decide to stop to pass the hottest hours. We leave after a supply of water and energy, but the slopes are too much, taken over 20% on dirt: if not impossible to push, even without the bags would have been much harder. And together with us the warning the inhabitants of Collescille accompanies us: "Beware the shepherds maremmani when you are near the top, are free and there is the shepherd could attack!" Conquer Mount Lungo to 1250 m with wonderful views over the valley of Preci and Visso and start going down without a meeting with the respectable quadruped. The first part of the descent is very fast, we must always keep our eyes open to avoid the most significant obstacles that could damage the bags tied to the rack. Speed past a Maremma sheepdog without giving him time to react. Then the path becomes more rocky, sometimes leaning sometimes less, we must slow down at all. The descent is long, hands for half an hour of yarn on the brakes and speed comparable to that which we uphill. The fund is in practice the bed of a river, a scree! Every so often we stop and throw water on the disc brakes, a cloud of steam rises ...
Finally, almost at sunset, we reach Visso, a town nestled on the confluence of 5 valleys and rich water. This country is really charming and won the hearts of anyone who steps: Can not stop. The pedestrian square in the center, embellished by the Collegiate Church of St. Augustine and is always full of events and especially of people! Visso combines a charming natural environment and cultural presence of considerable artistic importance.

Sixth and final stage: Visso (607 m) - Fiastra (756 m) 32 km 1007 m of altitude difference

This stage follows closely that described in the publication of the park. Maybe because it was the last, will be that the ascent was all concentrated at the beginning and in a single solution, but this was the easiest leg of the tour. No difficulty of orientation, beautiful dirt roads, slopes suitable. From Visso climb up a paved road Casali absolutely no traffic, the rise has drawn immediately outside the village demanding part of Ussita, then cycling. Once in Casali should stop, take a breath and fill our water bottles with excellent water fountain in the country (there will be more supply points along the route, to the food, we have to have done so already lived!). It is worth also admire the elegant stone church in the country, the center of an open space with panoramic views over the valley below. From Casali (1080 m) begins the dirt road that leads to the meadows of Pao and Roe (1570 m). The fund is never too confusing, as the slope, you just pay attention to the cars that occasionally roam the street (I pass one every quarter of an hour ...). Proceeding with the ascent route is even more enjoyable, running under a conifer forest with a gentle breeze to ease the summer heat. It comes out of the woods in the usual fields of
bald peaks of the Sibillini. From here on, the traffic becomes null and no longer experiences a soul (that's new! Actually, no, we encounter a bull!). The descent is easy, long and unfortunately last, takes us up to the refuge of Trebbio, with continuous views of the lake Fiastra lying in front of us. Sorpresona finale: the shelter is full, then you sleep in tents in the meadows around there, with nice sound of wild boars that come to eat afianco to our home for the night!

... in the backyard ..

Surprise surprise: to return home after 3 days and find the hole bike! It is bored in the car (not deflated, there is just the hole) and you do not know how, or Saint Rita of Cascia, the saint of the impossible, putting a finger and kept the air inside the chamber until they we finished the tour! Thanks Santa Rita, on behalf of all cyclists rakes like us!