Cilento: with caravan among story and sea

By Luca, Sabrina and Federico

 

Once starting on Friday, the face of those who say that iella ports: the last time, less than two months ago, the same day of the week, we marked the flight to the States and everything went wonderfully well ... then we visited places of extraordinary beauty and now it will not be easy to find something that is worthy ... Do not despair, however, our dear old Italy hardly disappoint the expectations, especially in the sea and history, the fundamental elements of this journey that we are preparing to do in the Cilento.
E 'already dark when finished place the camper, we leave home at 21:53, with the enthusiasm of the small, always like that especially this kind of holiday.
Take the highway to exit Forlì immediately in Cesena, take the E45 to follow in diction of Rome: the highway, in the Apennines, is uneven and full of holes, nothing short of disaster ... a real shame, and probably, given the importance, one of the worst roads of Italy.
Around 23:00, pass the point of Verghereto, we enter in Tuscany and a little later in Umbria: Sabrina Federico and wearing pajamas and go to sleep by midnight that body close to Perugia.

Continue in the company of the radio, along the E45, and at some point I can not help but notice the exit to a place which, for some twist of fate, is called Bastardo ... and I dare not try to guess the name of the inhabitants ... Shortly after, at 1: 15, I stopped to sleep, a few kilometers off the highway, close to Narni.
Do not take so long to come back day, so, consumed a quick breakfast, at 9:00 we are already on the street and a little later, you enter the door of Orte on the motorways.
Proceed shipped south, sull'A1, while in the opposite direction of travel to our beautiful, there is a queue, mainly because of those who, unlike us, the vacation has ended.
Around 10:00 we are on the right detour route for Rome and a few kilometers beyond, passing within an area of service, a strange place to block. Obviously we are not wanted us and we can continue to follow, in perfect peace, our way to the south of Italy.
Sabrina does not lose the occasion to crush a nap while Federico deceiving the time counting the brands of fuel along the way, so, after a stop for refueling at 12:00, near Caserta, we are also right on the road to Naples and, along the A30, we arrive at around 13:00, the barrier of Salerno ... Because of traffic, we use a little 'time to cross, but in the end turn the A3 (the infamous Salerno - Reggio Calabria) and arrive, after a few tens of kilometers, the release of Battipaglia.
At this point we should follow the State Road 18 in the direction of the sea, but it is quite busy and we remain bottled using much longer than expected. It was late and made us all pretty tired and hungry, but we must resist, because the goal is really close ... Indeed, at 14:05, we enter the parking lot is permitted for campers of Paestum and, finally, we can have lunch.
In the afternoon we move on foot to visit the famous archaeological area of Paestum. It was the Greeks around 600 BC, found in this flat area, near the mouth of the river Sele, a city which they called Poseidonia, in honor of the god of the sea. The town, defended by mighty walls (the most impressive and best preserved of antiquity), reinforced with four gates to the cardinal points, thanks to the excellent geographical position, reached in a short time a considerable degree of wealth and the consequent cultural and artistic fervor culminated in the space of a century or so, in the construction of three magnificent Doric temples: unparalleled legacy of the entire Greek civilization.
The magnificence of this colony soon aroused ambitions of conquest in Lucani, for the Italian population, which occupied around 400 BC, changing its name to Paistom. Ben other power in the meantime, however, was expanding throughout the country, and who else but Rome, of course.
Became undisputed master of these regions after the war against Pyrrhus in 273 BC, the city capitolina founded a colony under him and gave the place the name of Paestum. I enriched the Roman settlement of Paestum large buildings and prospered until the late empire, when the changing political needs of the capital, pointing to the east, the city began to fall into an irreversible crisis that led, over the centuries, depopulation, also due to migration of the inhabitants of the nearby hills.
After the abandonment of Paestum, no longer spoke for hundreds and hundreds of years, even though its temples still stood solemnly among the dense vegetation and clearly visible from the sea. It was the interest of painters, poets and artists of the eighteenth century to the ancient cultures to awaken interest in the place, especially when they inserted the ancient ruins of Paestum of the so-called "Grand Tour", which spread its fame throughout Europe. Since then it has worked diligently to preserve the ancient stones, and today we can observe, carefully restored in all their magnificence thousand.
Cross the colossal walls of the site and appear on our left, beyond a fence, the unmistakable silhouettes of temples. To make the tickets, however, we must arrive at the archaeological museum and, for convenience, right from there we decide to start your visit.
Inaugurated the first sale in 1952 the museum has, over time, extended and now houses a very interesting collection of Greek and Roman, from Paestum and from neighboring archaeological sites.
Proven passion of Federico for museums helps us greatly and we can calmly look at the precious relics, among which stand out the beautiful gravestones lucane of the fourth century BC (especially the so-called "Tomb of the diver).
Drawing from the salt consumed in the face of the museum and the archaeological exploration of the site, starting from the known as the Temple of Ceres that achieved at the end of the sixth century BC, is the smallest of the three, with 13 columns on long sides and 6 on those shorts, but stands out scenographically, seconded dagl'altri, with its high gables ... and is particularly photogenic, and for us even for a married couple who decided to use it as background for your photo.
Driving along the picturesque Via Sacra, which boasts even for long stretches, the original flooring, and passing through the ancient Forum, and then we come to the beautiful Temple of Neptune (or Posidonia), the newer, dating to the mid-fifth century BC , the best preserved and most beautiful course, with 16 columns on the length and 6 in the width: a masterpiece of antiquity and one of the most significant examples of the Doric temple of the entire Magna Grecia.
Beside it stands the oldest building, built between 540 and 530 BC, called the Basilica, that with a colonnade of 18 to 9 is also the largest of the complex.
We remain, in awe, looking at temples, in open view on the esplanade, exude history from every stone, causing indescribable emotions, and we hardly realize that the time of closure of the site is rapidly approaching.
We are among the last to leave the gate, holding a few figs, innocently "stolen" to Frederick, who goes mad, from a tree that is located within the boundaries of the archaeological, and returned to the camper inforchiamo bikes to reach the sea, which is no more than a kilometer away. Throw a strong wind and the beach was beaten by big waves ... we hope that improved since Monday, when we will fully to life resort.
On the way back, riding in perfect peace, we make the rounds of the cyclopean walls of Paestum and regain quickly without stopping the area where we parked to go, shortly after, to immortalize the temples with the magical light of the sunset ... But it is not over, because after dinner we return to look after various vicissitudes, and in conjunction with guided tours, lit and sparkling in the warm night cilentina before retreat, tired for the intense but unforgettable day, between the narrow walls of the camper to consume a well-earned rest.

We stand up quietly and leave us behind the ruins of Paestum, following the road number 106, which is within adventure: even today do not go to sea, avoiding, as far as possible, the local tourism and the crowding of the nerve-wracking week-end.
Beyond the remote countries of Roccaspide and Bellosguardo, that distant but a few tens of kilometers from the coast seem to have, from this, light years away, but not as much of the village ghost Roscigno Vecchio ... Going through a narrow cart with campers arrive in the square of the worn and dilapidated village, abandoned by its inhabitants at the beginning of last century due to threatening
landslides. Since then, not even too far, the country has as crystallized back in the eyes of our visitors an almost unreal.
Walk for some time along its scalcagnate streets, lined with semi-dilapidated buildings, which shall, among other things, a great deal of sadness: lately the place has attracted some interest, but the fate of most of the buildings seems hopelessly compromised.
Strengthened by this new experience we continue our path that brings us first to cross the new town of Roscigno, then cross a step by almost a thousand meters, before descending, one curve after another, the so-called Vallo di Diano, a narrow band that corresponds to the flat bottom of an ancient lake. Here we enter the Salerno - Reggio Calabria, which we follow for a few kilometers north, to exit, following signs for the town Petrosa, where the homonymous underground cavities, also known as "Caves of the Angel", known since but since visited, albeit minimally, only since 1932 and currently gl'ipogei among the most interesting from the point of view of tourism, throughout southern Italy.
Buy tickets for the tour of 13:00 and there is enough time for lunch, before departure, improvise a small snack, so, in perfect time, we introduce ourselves to the entrance gate.
The cave, which has a total of about three kilometers, it is basically made of three parallel branches, two of which are visited, and third, the most southern, fully occupied by a stream, which then flows out from the flow main branch. Having been built years ago a dam at the entrance to the cavity, the first part dell'ipogeo is completely flooded and is passable only with the help of a ... We follow this fascinating tract in the first semi and the classic padded silence of these places, among other things, passing beside the point chosen by the famous dell'Horror director Dario Argento, as set girarvi for natural scenes in the movie "Il Fantasma dell'Opera "and we reach the pier in strange lands in which to deal with the visit of the most traditional of these caves.
There are fantastic stalactites and stalagmites, but mostly white "lives" with the constant ticking of water falling from the ceiling, which accompanies us throughout the journey. Thus, we arrive at what is called the "Hall of sponges," surely the most beautiful, and then regain the exit following an alternative path that unravels between bizarre concretions.
After over an hour back to the light of the sun: we are all happy for the experience just experienced, but Frederick, who always like these kinds of visits, it is in particular.
Finally consumed the lunch we continue our journey along the A3, which we follow for a short but to the south, as far as the location of Padula.
The village in question is first perched on the hills of the Monti della Maddalena and is known to its feet because there is the famous Certosa di San Lorenzo, one of the largest monasteries in the world and among those of greatest interest in Europe for architectural magnificence and abundant artistic treasures.
It was the Norman Thomas Sanseverino, Lord of the Vallo di Diano, in 1306 to donate (for political reasons) the building to the order of monks, who, of their strong influence, led him, over time, with a high degree of wealth and prestige.
After a period of disgrace under the dominion of France Napoleon Bonaparte Certosa flourish, but the ancient magnificence was only a nostalgic memory, and there was now a new, gradual decline that led, in 1866, the abolition of the monastery.
In 1882 the entire complex was declared a National Monument, but only one hundred years later they began restoration work thanks to which, today, we can observe, recovered in the splendor, the old rooms with their wonderful works of art, the result of centuries history of the region.
Vaghi long between courtyards, cloisters and gl'interni of the great religious complex. Are some beautiful chapels, which include refined, the Great Cloister, with its twelve thousand square meters and the most extensive in the world, and the beautiful elliptical staircase in two flights, contained in an octagonal tower, from where large openings have exceptional views of the village and the surrounding hills.
I am almost 18.00 when we conclude this lovely visit and we continue our journey towards the south of Italy. A3 turn again and, crossing the border between the Campania and Basilicata, the exit Lagonegro begin to descend towards the sea.
When finally sighted the coast of the Tyrrhenian Calabria entering, past the village of Praia a Mare and San Nicola Arcella, and arrive in the town of Scalea, the tourist center was built at the foot of the scenic old village, which stands perched on a small hill, a short distance from the sea. In the Calabrian town but you can not stop for the night, so come back in the direction of San Nicola Arcella and descend an inlet along a road the whole curve, but we do not find a place that we go to genius. Meanwhile time passes and the relentless sun sets lighting magisterially the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea ...
It 'almost dark when, finally, we find a car park with other campers near Praia a Mare, near the island of Dino, and we stop there, finding a nice and interesting day, full of historical and naturalistic.

This morning we must go way street, because we are already in place where we want to spend the whole day, so we get up from bed without hurry and give us a quiet breakfast. Soon after, more to laziness that need, we move with the camper in the parking lot near the Island of Dino, and go on the beach.
The beach, sand and pebbles, dark gray, is not the best that can be desired and not gloomy backdrop enhances the blue of the sea, but we must be satisfied. Place the umbrella near the bagnasciuga and while Sabrina and Federico are dedicated to beach life, I'm going in search of an oven and a piece of bread ... I'll be back after traveling a few kilometers on foot and, accaldato, I cast into the water in the small company.
The large gauge the island of Dino, only a few tens of meters from the shore, it is constantly on us, and features all views towards the sea, to completely capture our attention. Shortly before noon, in fact, we decide to take part in an excursion by boat along the circumnavigation of the island, scattered among other things, some interesting caves.
Climb on the boat directly from the beach, a short distance from our umbrella, and take off the facing shore of what seems only a matter of huge rocks, which measure the circumference instead of the beauty of seven kilometers! The flat, rocky island, owned by the Agnelli family, is home to an exclusive luxury spa, where guests will certainly be forced to swim in the pool, given the total lack of beaches ... A not to miss are the caves (nice), we visit at the end of the tour: in particular, the Grotta Azzurra Classicissima (to observe carefully the map of the area, with this name, you can find one in virtually every town along the coast) and the Grotta del Leone.
Completed the short boat trip we return to the beach, who have filled up all'inverosimile, and after a refreshing bath we collect the camper in for lunch ... but there remain long, and soon we are under our umbrella, facing the Tyrrhenian Sea, which, thank God, no longer than a couple of days ago and now is crashing down on peaceful bagnasciuga.
We remain at Gongolo, including a bathroom and another, in this place until evening, when the sun in his gait continued toward the east, disappears behind the Isola di Dino: at the beach was abandoned, and we can finally "breathe". E 'inutile, the crowding of the Italian coast in the summer months is unfortunately a bitter rent on which we can not escape, so, shortly later, the sun sets tapping the severe outline of the sky and burned to its shoulders, in the silence dell'arenile Omai semi-desert, is transformed into the best memory of this first day of the sea to the southern borders of the Cilento ... E 'with this idea in mind that we leave the beach and, after completing the loading and unloading at a nearby campground (which you pay profumatamente!), There we stopped for the night, in the company of other campers, the same parking lot last night, on the outskirts of Praia a Mare.

Intend to leave the Island by Dino and Praia a Mare we are following the coast, heading north, but we can not leave the country because between this and the road runs the railway line, whose subways are all too low for our campers. We are thus forced to return to the south, considerably lengthening the path and losing, especially, a lot of valuable time.
Over an hour after the turn, finally, the State taking the number 18 as soon we leave behind to get in Calabria Basilicata.
The coast is now high and the ribbon of asphalt begins to run pretty far from the sea, so, at some point, take a fall, along a secondary road in the direction of the beach Macarro. In this way we come to a parking lot, where we allow the plea, and on foot we move towards dell'arenile, on which, from the house, I had good references. The creek, in fact, is wedged between high cliffs and offers a good glance, even in the distance on the statue of the Redeemer of Maratea, dominating (in style Rio de Janeiro) this stretch of coastline lucano. The sand and then the bottom here are dark, of course, to the detriment of the Sea, which would be discrete in terms of clarity, but unfortunately not highlight properly.
Some remain in the bathrooms and beach Macarro almost 14:00 when rearranged all our things, we return to the camper for lunch.
Refreshment, after a first day of all things positive, we continue our journey along this portion of the Tyrrhenian coast that, beyond the town of Maratea, with its Marina, is particularly harsh and, at times, spectacular.
We are looking for a beach in which to spend the rest of the afternoon and along the way we notice some small coves set among the rocks, but are difficult to access and, above all, do not give any chance to stop, especially for half the size of a camper.
We can only go far as the coast becomes more sweet: so we return in Campania, in Sapri, right in the middle of the Gulf of Policastro ... but here the beaches there and meet, also rejected the seemingly depressed area of the mouth of the river Bussento, take a climb on the road, passing through the inside, comes in the famous resort of Marina di Camerota.
We address the path that winds among coastal hills cilentini, with some 'apprehension because of a sign that warns about the transit through a small town, with limits of height and width very similar to ours, but we overcome the obstacle successfully (without throwing many inches) and in the end we come to the longed-free finish.
We are now in the late afternoon when the road, narrow and full of parked cars, which leads to the main beach of Marina di Camerota, the Lentiscelle. We are like a bull in a crystal shop and, after a slight touch with the side wall of the camper, we bottled and damned we deal only after some time when, finally, we find a gap in traffic and a place for our cumbersome means. All this has generated, of course, a little 'tension, but we can still afford a couple of hours relaxing on the beach and slowly return the mood ... Thus, while Federico played on bagnasciuga and find new friends, I go in the nearby swimming pool to take the news about tomorrow's trip by boat ... then we think the sun to cheer gl'ultimi views of this day, setting admirably on our right, behind the headland on which is perched scenographically the village of Marina di Camerota, who, kindly hosting us in this warm night in order August.

Even today is a beautiful day: the best that can be desired in anticipation of waiting boat trip along the coast of Marina di Camerota.
We are at the beach Lentiscelle and I agree with Franco, the beach of the nearby beach, around the boat, departing from the nearby marina, which should move to take, so, after breakfast, I go by my personal man of trust ... After hearing my requests Franco, who speaks to me as though we know from a lifetime, made a number on his phone and exchange with the other head of some dead in the local dialect: from there to a quarter of an hour, as if by magic, is a vessel of the Cooperative Cilento Mare, who will accompany us in the trip along the south coast town.
The stretch of coastline in question is accessible only by sea, is rocky, rugged and extremely rugged. So we visit, in sequence, Fortuna Bay, with the inevitable Grotta Azzurra, the spectacular Monte Cala di Luna, which is characterized by the presence of a huge tall rock, the beautiful beach of Pozzallo and Cala Bianca, thus doubling the Cape of Punta Iscoleti , enter the Gulf of Policastro ... and here is a real shame that the classical Mediterranean haze limits visibility considerably, because this is clearly distinguished three regions: Campania, Basilicata and Calabria. This does not however c'impedisce reaching Porto Infreschi flagship cilentina the coast, which is characterized by the so-called Grotta del Toro and the presence of the small Chapel of San Lorenzo over the ruins of Torre Frontone, owes its name to the freshness spring waters here, or all'argilla mined in Roman times for the production of clay objects (the place was called, at Anphorisca).
The tiny beach though, despite the still morning hours, is already overcrowded (and a little disappointment), and fortunately our "official route" he signs off for the rest of the day, in more engaging and wide Cala of Pozzallo.
So called because of the presence, nearby, some wells of fresh water, the beach has a shoreline consisting of pebbles for the most clear, that finally bring out the transparency of the sea and, despite the presence of bathers increases gradually in the hours power of the day, the place is sufficiently wild and largely satisfy us ... thus gaining a full-on, the palm of the best seafood place in this journey in the Cilento.
Fortified by these considerations do not lose this opportunity and we extract from the backpack inflatable mattress to consume, in his company, and many pleasant bathrooms, up to the picnic lunch provided.
Pampered by the beautiful sea of Cala di Pozzallo pleasantly spend the early hours of the afternoon, noting among other things that some boys diving, sciaguratamente, high cliffs that line the creek ... and the time will fly, so in the blink of an eye will make the 16:30, the hour set for the return.
The boat of the Cooperative Cilento sea is timely and just before 17:00 salpa assigned Marina di Camerota: goes back a long stretch of coast and leaves us where we had taken in the morning, the beach Lentiscelle.
We still have a few hours of warm sun and we stop by the sea, so Frederick found the friends the day before and spent a little 'time to play with them, and slowly come in the warm colors of the sunset ... God is now: almost all the swimmers left and rinse wave acts as a substrate agl'ultimi moments of a beautiful day, with the sea of quality and a good dose of relaxation sacrosanct.
The shadows of night descend on beach Lentiscelle and we will withdraw inside the camper to have dinner with a good pizza (amazing the difference in price from the north of Italy!) And listen to the radio, the Olympic Games in Athens, with the hope that some blue medal to go with the certainty of finding a few days, Marina di Camerota sull'ipotetico podium of this holiday.

The long and pointless wanderings of two days ago looking for a beach and a place to stop in the stretch of coast between Maratea and the Gulf of Policastro, gave us one day lead over the normal course the route, so , cleared the good quality of the beach and the sea of Marina di Camerota, decide on the spot to spend an entire day of complete relaxation.
We stand up quietly and then we go to cut the corner of the Tyrrhenian Sea in the southernmost part of the beach Lentiscelle, where the beach then leaves room for the high cliffs.
At the point where we have placed at the foot of the cliffs, the shadow still dominated, but the sun will come soon, though in heaven today vagabondeggia some cloud too ... Meanwhile, in the company of Frederick, I go, following a short path to the nearby Saracen tower, and the return we enjoy a good bath in the transparent waters of Marina di Camerota.
Depletion absolute slip away as the first part of the day, until now at noon, suddenly changes into something s'increspa the sea and begins to blow a troublesome wind. Try, unconsciously, not to give importance to what ... perhaps it will be a storm in the vicinity and will soon pass more ... Instead the water is worked more and more and when, around 14:00, we returned to the camper for lunch we can not help but notice the beach bathers already often than the morning.
In the afternoon, almost to tell of a signature, go back to the beach to brave the weather, the sea and in the meantime is angry ... and fortunately this was not the case yesterday, during the course of movement in the boat.
Federico consumption along with a bathroom between the turbulent waves, while Sabrina if they are on shore, to read his book, wrapped in beach towel, even when the wind does not increase further in intensity and the clouds do not completely obscure the blue of the sky, then we raise white flag.
We leave the beach Lentiscelle, semi now, and we move, whether by necessity, designed for the camper who is close to where, after having carried out the classic routine operations, we stop for dinner and overnight.
In the evening we go out for a walk in the center of Marina di Camerota, with the big voice of the sea, that is crashing down on the rocks of the port, provide the substrate is a small town and too chaotic tourism, nothing exceptional ... much better than its coast and its natural beauty.

We try to leave a good time, to avoid as much traffic as possible. In today's program, in fact, a big unknown: Palinuro. The famous flagship cilentina the coast, will certainly be invaded by hordes of tourists and our fundamental problem is to find a place (not light years away from the center) where to park seven "uncomfortable" meters camper!
Walk the few kilometers of the coast that divide from Marina di Camerota Palinuro and even before the 9:00 turn the way that s'inoltra town in the heart: find a sign prohibiting transit camper, but I am aware of ... we need to park, no camping!
The road is narrow but the traffic still low, so we reach the marina: Our main goal is the Cala del Buon Dormire, located at the base of the cliffs of Capo Palinuro and, apparently, inaccessible by land. In that respect we would be willing to participate in one of the many boat trips that, passing by the famous cave ... of course ... Blue and doubling the Cape, arrived at a small creek, but there is a problem ... We request information to a park (very nice) and say that we feel today, given the heavy seas, do not leave any boat, but tells us also, as I suspected, the Cala del Buon Dormire, wanting, is also accessible by land: enough follow the road and down the lighthouse, walk along a path near King's Residence ... to do this, giving the campers, not to have a small, but he says that there will be no problems ... and we trust.
Although some 'c'imbarchiamo hesitant because in this adventure, the wind blowing from north-west, the Cala, besides being beautiful, it should also be one of the few places with the calm sea of the coast ... Meanwhile, the road is good and there is parking nearby.
I ask for information to another daredevil (and rickety) Camper that is in place, but it is not even aware of the existence of the beach, then consult a customer of the King which tells me that we need to get off all'insenatura pass through l 'hotel ... We do not lose their nerve and, full of everything you need for the beach life, cross the gate of the resort. Almost immediately we encounter an attendant to ask what you can go: we kindly points out that the thing does not depend on him ... but shows us the right way and said not having a visa.
Pass with ease by the pool and begin to fall, among beautiful views along the staircase that slopes down clinging to the stern profile of the cliff. Brings us in view of the Cala del Buon Sleep, which is really nice: a little gem nestled in the coast of Capo Palinuro.
We camp in the tiny beach, the other half is occupied by the King of umbrellas, and, while Sabrina enjoys the warm rays of the sun, we spend time exploring a nearby cave and consuming long baths in the waters crystal clear (and rather cold) of the bay .
Frederick makes friends with some kids of Biella and remain on site for lunch, but, unfortunately, the high cliffs behind us means that the sun leaves the place in the shade already around 14:00 ... We stop again an hour and then we move along the path of return, with Sabrina devoured by the desire to be discovered as unwanted immigration policies. Calmly climb the 467 steps that take us back to the Residence, we pass by the pool and, quietly, as we entered ... leave ... Mission accomplished! ... indeed, a splendid mission accomplished!
Without encountering problems also emerge from Palinuro and we follow the coast towards the north, while the sea, which continues to fall strongly on the shoreline, gives even more value to our stealth adventure. Well beyond the village of Ascea and come close to the archaeological site of Velia.
There remains little more than an hour to visit the ruins of this ancient city, founded in 540 BC Focei from a population fleeing from Asia Minor following the Persian. Initially called Elea Velia became under the Roman domination and decayed around the fifth century AD after devastating floods and the barbarian invasions.
The remains, not comparable to those of Paestum, are interesting and stand out in particular the wonderful Pink Door and the Porta Marina, in addition to the Acropolis, situated on a hill, also includes some beautiful medieval fortifications.
We enjoy the place, surrounded by greenery and perhaps a little 'unevenly, in solitude, surrounded by thousand-year silence of the stones and when the custodians leave (perhaps a little' indispettiti) close the gate of the site almost behind us.
Looking for a place for the night we go to the nearby Marina di Ascea that c'immaginavamo was a quiet village by the sea, is a chaotic and stifling tourist-town hypermarkets, which c'induce to escape towards the north, along the coast.
After an infinite number of curves we leave behind the village of Acciaroli where Hemingway stayed, and we arrive in the village of Montecorice: by the sea can be seen, parked, some campers and there we go ... The place is quiet, but the nearby beach is horrible, made of large pebbles and uncomfortable, but most of all dirty! ... Also escaped from here, surely as the sun sets and the day started well, is in danger of not completing successfully.
Complete darkness with the end of the Cilento coast and we are ... in Paestum! ... Over the area for campers near the temples seems there is another nearby, situated between the other in the sea, and after various vicissitudes we can find: they are already past 21:00, we are tired and hungry but for briefcase stop us asking for more than 30 euros! ... madness ... let's spend the night in the parking lot of the temples and third of the expenditure caviamo ce ... At sea, even too good here and even moved, calmly take care of tomorrow morning ...

E 'on the last day in Cilento, but the route was closed in practice yesterday with the arrival at Paestum.
In the stretch of sea between Palinuro and the archaeological site we did not find a beach that we had a genius ... and not find even today, on the flat coast of up to Salerno, but we will try to settle ... Meanwhile, when we leave on our right, the Basilica s'intravede by side with the magnificent Temple of Neptune ... and this is enough to put in a good mood.
Following the coastal road deviamo towards the sea shortly after the town of Laura and arrive at a small park located next to Mermaid Quay, a sort of beach. A glance at the beach makes us understand that the place, as a beauty, I certainly do not excel, but it is even worse than what would be later, so we decide to stop.
Umbrella plant, which sinks easily into a soft sand and very pleasant to the touch ... go here to see the day and try to adapt as much as possible to this sea ... how to say ... Series "B", at least compared to yesterday, has calmed considerably.
The most beautiful thing around us are the wild lilies that grow in bunches a little 'edge dell'arenile everywhere ... To tell the truth, the whole place would not be bad if it were not for the haze and that water, more like a vegetable Brodin than others, with the pine forest behind us and the long stretch of sand bounded on left, the profile of the mountainous coastline and cilentino, right, from severe Amalfi coast, with the Isle of Capri, which, barely, in the misty s'intravede Mediterranean ... In this context, we consume some bathrooms, more to win the summer heat and for others, then, around 13:00, back to the camper for lunch.
We do everything with extreme calm, listen to some 'of radio, with the inevitable Olympics, and just before 16:00 we go back to the beach to spend some time relaxing, as long as the sun setting masterfully on the sea area of front of us, not us that the time has come to go.
Dinner and then at 20:55, we started the return journey, thus, not even half an hour later, we enter the motorway at Battipaglia ... after a few kilometers and we are still in the queue already! The traffic is intense up to the barrier of Salerno, and then becomes more fluid and at 22:30, near Caserta, Sabrina and Richard if they go to sleep, left me in the company of radio and the Olympic basketball final Italy-Argentina. .. forza azzurri!
At 23:20, shortly after Cassino, I will stop
in an area of service for refueling, while Italy unfortunately has to settle of silver ... I take the road, sporting a 'indispettito, I leave behind the exit Frosinone, and after a handful of miles that midnight shell announces the beginning of a new day ...

At the junction south of Rome Clocks the 0:15 mark and sent proceed along the A1 exit at Orte ... E '1: 07 when we take to follow the E45 and less than half an hour later we stop in Narni, in the same parking journey so I can give a few hours of well-deserved rest.
At 9:25, after a quick breakfast, and start, grinding km at 10:15 a.m. passing close to Perugia, continuing to go up the Val Tiberina. Subsequently, because the work (eternal), Crossing the Pass Verghereto passing outside the highway and once returned, in short, we leave behind the mountains, so at 12:15 we are at Cesena, and setting off the A14, quarter of an hour later at Forlì.
Performed all the operations on the camper, equipped in the area (with Frederick that, taken from the usual ardor, it crushes under his foot to a heavy grill and ends with the inevitable tears), to conclude: 12:50 p.m. happily in front of the gate of our house, this trip ... The dear old Italy and does not ever disappoint the Cilento is no exception, with the wonders of Paestum in the head, but also with the magnificent Certosa di Padula, the dell'Angelo caves and beautiful beaches of Palinuro and Marina di Camerota ... We have been good to walk among these lands bells, but also lucane and Calabria, only one thing we have in some way disturbed After the order found in the recent U.S. trip was repeated, in our view, the ubiquitous, chaotic, disordered Italic ... but in retrospect perhaps it is this that makes us a people so extraordinarily creative and full of wonderful vitality.