Cruising Lampedusa with a scooter. Sicily, Italy

Vacation of sun sea and plenty of relaxation in one of the most beautiful in Italy

 

Ready ... set ... away ....
Never before had coveted the holidays. ... In fact an exact year has passed since the last holiday and fatigue is felt as the desire to get away and unplug for a while '.
The choice of destination was not random at all ... we wanted to explore other sides of Sicily and our initial idea was to do a tour across the east and south of the island.
The inability to match the timetables of the ferries and the fear of making anything but relaxing holiday made us veer toward something less demanding: Lampedusa.
From tales of friends already knew that the sea here is beautiful, the island is small and turns very well in a short time ... plus the choice to go down with the plane and rent a scooter on the spot already gave the idea of holiday free ....
So, after several problems with the travel agency that is wrong to make us the tickets (from next year we will do everything on the Internet!) 12 games last Sunday.
The flight is direct from Rome to Lampedusa and in just over an hour we're there.
The airline Air One has been impeccable: flights on time, friendly crew, reasonable prices, baggage handling perfect. ... Certainly better than Alitalia!
At 11.30 we are at Lampedusa. We are at the airport Sebastian, manager of the Residence amphoras, which takes us straight to housing we choose. This is a small building near the airport and therefore close to the center of town, the apartment is nice, not great but just for our needs. We also have a small balcony with a barbecue for future grilled fish.
Short time to settle, a Pulitini the house (ke per se was clean but we always want to overdo it) a refreshing shower, lunch on the fly and then straight to bed. ... Until the next morning (we were a bit tired!)

First actual day of vacation ... obviously we wake up soon because of the long sleep yesterday.
First real contact with reality lampedusana .... Is it really true or is loved or hated, is very particular landscape like ... totally rocks, the houses almost all white or pastel colors and homeless (most have a terrace instead of the roof), the sun beats strong ...
Notice it immediately to our first visit to a beach ... we're going to Cala Madonna
The heat is oppressive. ... We arrange on the rocks but there is no wind and very little we can stay there. ... Water is good, too well, we're almost all day ... when we are in the water go nn point refreshment of the beach and shot us mint ice at will ... the situation is dramatic, will be that we still have to get used to the climate ... almost African.
Fortunately the time of sunset comes and starts to rise a slight breeze that animates the body and spirit

This morning we start with the idea of going to a place a little more comfortable .... Usually ride a scooter ... pit stop into town to buy lunch. ... If you're not greedy never entered the bakery and good things. ... There you can find everything from savory (pizzas, sandwiches, etc etc) to things sweet (almond cakes, cannoli from Sicily, Cassatella, etc etc)
So that after we made a pizza in two, we head towards the goal. ... Today is the turn of Cala Greca. It 'a little tourist beach, barely advertised, but for me it's a real treat ... a calettina small intimate with a beautiful sea that bathes. ... Finally found a piece of paradise, and today there is little confusion easier to bear Anke the hot (thanks to our tent Anke beach!)
The water is full of fish, especially flying fish from the characteristic black and forked tail, which in the blue of the sea have their beautiful figure ... we have fun in attracting them with bits of bread and within 5 min. gather fish of all types that are fighting the meal unexpected.
I would have stayed there all their lives. ... Cmq at some point, as the appetite begins to bite back at the base and in the evening we decided to make our first release mundane ... straight to the restaurant "The Pantry" for a good bellyful of fish. ... The cuisine is excellent, prices are fair and the atmosphere is just nice .... a really nice evening ... .. we end the evening in Rome for the street ride immanncabile granita and tourism.

For the day of August, since it provides for millions of tourists to the various beaches of the island the previous evening we decided to do something very alternative: that ride on the scenic road that skirts around the north side of the island.
So the next morning we woke up with a little 'more comfortable, breakfast in quiet (given the amount of food swallowed would be better to classify it as a brunch rather than as a simple breakfast)
At 11.00 we are riding our scooter. First problem that arises is to fill up because the ride is quite large and given our tendency to lose the way it is easy to double the km.necessari. ... We note with surprise that all distributors are closed, sealed pumps and a sign says: "Petrol over, waiting for the ship" ... the inconvenience of living in an island: no supplies "from Italy" is dry ... ..
So we change radically the program and decide to go and see the famous Cala Creta, near the famous beach because there is Villa di Claudio Baglioni (almost a mayor for lampedusani as creator of the event sentitissima 'O Shah)
It 'a wonderful place, immediately after the scooter just enough time to take a walk on the reef and opens before us an unexpected sight: a crystal clear sea that are the envy that of Sardinia, turquoise blue water that runs from the blue and green and the rocks we have a deep ... the beach is nonexistent, or there is a platform of concrete and rocks that goes directly to the sea, but the result is cmq remarkable.
E 'the ideal place for snorkeling as the sea bed is rocky and full of fish
After spending the whole day there, at 18.00 we went to visit the WWF Turtle Recovery Center, which is just near.
Lampedusa is in fact famous for turtles. Each year these animals choose the beaches to lay their eggs and then they are several off the coast.
Unfortunately, too often turtles are victims of fishermen (entanglement in nets, swallow baited hooks and whole balls of fishing line, a fracture to the carapace which is their armor of defense)
This center is born to save these creatures from one end almost certain. The fishermen themselves who deliver injured animals to the volunteers who deal with the WWF surgery, managing the recovery phase at the center to be placed back into the sea of the animal recovered. It 'very important to preserve the turtles because they are part of a delicate ecosystem ... they feed on jellyfish, so keep our seas clean and since an excess of jellyfish causing reduced amount of oxygen in water also facilitates the survival and reproduction of other types of fish.
At the center we saw about 10 turtles in recovery post-operative and there were so many in "intensive care" because it operates in those days. In recent years could also see the release of turtles healed, that was made from Cala Madonna, but the huge influx of tourists and the difficulty to manage everything from volunteers (ten in all) without the help authorities, has prevented a recurrence this year. SIGH!
The visit was short but very touching and instructive. On the way back we went into town to give us a typical Sicilian dinner: bread and cake, oranges and the Sicilian pizza (pizza sauce) .... Needless to say it was a bomb ... who knows how will these Sicilian digest things like that with the heat that is here!

Wake up early, that most usual breakfast subscribers, fishing rod over his shoulder and walk to the port to buy bait ... the day it provides, in addition to the usual splashing in clear waters, fishing activities.
Unfortunately, the gas pumps are still dry ... .. the only diesel fuel for us poor fifty there ... so that even our itinerary must be change.
We decide to go to a beach not far from the city center and in front of Cala Croce, one of the smaller beach of Porto 'Ntoni. To reach it, walk past the famous beaches of Guitgia, the beach of the town because part of the town. The beach is definitely very beautiful, the sight from the road is great, but too crowded and too touristy for our tastes. Pull straight and arrive at Cala Croce. Also here is the cove with beach and nearby restaurant ... we opt for placement on the rocks ... much more uncomfortable but definitely quieter ... The beach has very low bottoms that slope gently but unfortunately there are many jellyfish ... where are we however, there are rocks, but high seas bottom cleaner and full of fish in the water ... while I'm there in the sun I feel something stuck on my ankle and thought it was a seaweed shake his leg .... I feel the same feeling the other leg so I look down and see a pretty big boy octopus was clinging to me .... Ste tries to capture him but he is elusive ... sprinkles "ink" and goes away .... We went there to fish and instead is a polyp that has caught me ... is the last straw ...
Ste goes fishing using squid as bait and peck some minnow ... I will give me the harvesting of sea urchins, after I had made to explain by a Sicilian gentleman next to us how to distinguish male from female (they are in fact only the eggs of females eat!)
The day passed thus, in the water, resulting in a good burn but so relax .... At sunset we go back on the scooter and head back home. ... We are now in the reserve and we decide to get provisions at the supermarket on the way, with the result that they get to loads such as donkey and balance is very precarious.
Dinner luxury seafood and sweets with almonds with the past .... sn 2 days of rest that we skip lunch and we have to be redone.

Day devoted entirely to the boat trip with the "Sciaranda"
In the harbor the morning there are many boats that offer the whole tour of the island, but our choice in the end proved to be successful for both the sympathy and the organization of the crew, both for the company of other vacationers. We left the harbor and we sailed around the island counterclockwise (thus removing them from the other boats that typically do the opposite) From the port, Grottacce (two adjacent caves that contain within them the natural pools where we did the first bath of day), French Cala, Cala Pisana, Cala Creta, Dead Sea and stop for our second bathroom. The staff has also organized a lunch? Remarkable fish and was an opportunity to familiarize yourself with the other tourists (thanks to a friendly game) From there the situation has degenerated into an irrepressible laugh. ... Who told jokes the microphone on board, who simulated sightings of whales, etc etc
We left to complete the circumnavigation of the island and we touched on several caves including the Cave of Sighs, the cave of lovers (taller than 50 meters from the summit of which fall drops of fresh water gush from the rock), the grotto of Monte Solaro , Cape Grecale, Punta Alaimo, Sail Rock, Faraglione the Sacramento and western Cape.
Now completed the vision of the north coast of the island is characterized by high cliffs overlooking the sea. The southern part is rather low and therefore most of the beaches are here: Cala Chick (stop bath), Island of rabbits, tobacconist (last bathroom break for the day), Cala Galera, Cala Greca, Cala Madonna. Cala Croce, Beach of Guitgia.
Thus being part of the port, physically tested by various Bagnetti facts but it was worth really worth.
The good news awaiting us on the ground is that the gas is finally reached, which means that we can return to use our brand scooter without the anxiety of being on foot ... in fact we take it immediately and took the opportunity to make a pit stop at the legendary fish market Gianni order to fill up for dinner ... after all the fish that we saw in the sea ... to eat meat out of tune ... definitely. Ste in pole position to the barbecue (as usual) manages to churn out a mega-based grilled sea bream, sea bream, squid and prawns red mouth-watering ... As usual, we get to end of the night and destroyed nn managed to set foot outside home .... x will be tomorrow.

Today is the main day of the holiday .... The program now is to spend the entire day at the rabbits ... all because we have always spoken highly of this beach, as judged by all the most beautiful island ... In fact this is the place where the Caretta Caretta turtles still nest and this has become Marine Protected Area, or the boats can not moor near its coasts, beach access is only permitted from 08.30 to 19.30 and some activities are not feasible (such as playing rackets or make holes in the sand)
The turtles lay their eggs by making large holes in the sand, the eggs hatch these little turtles will head instinctively toward the sea and is important that they take this route because after about 40 years and about 4 laps of the world, just reaching maturity sex will return right there at birth in turn to generate other lives.
It 'amazing to think that every 100 small turtles that are born only 8 survive, surely those little cards helpless prey in the open sea are very easy
It 'very important to preserve this area because it's been the last beach in Lampedusa, where is this miracle happened in the first while all the beaches ... unfortunately the man without checks and Tourism has destroyed this balance.
However we said that before you arrive, curious to see this beach was so much .... but when there we found the front after about 10 min.di path, we were really speechless .... is a swimming pool .. a Caribbean beach. ... paradise .... see in front of you all shades from white-blue to deep blue. ... So that we continue the path and reach the end we see that at the very beginning of the beach there is a mega villa .... one of the many abuses buildings in Italy ... built by Modugno and now owned by Mr. Berlusconi (but it will never be a right?)
The beach is divided into two areas: the proportion of managed beach where you can rent an umbrella or plant their own, the other half where you can just lay your towel and stand in the sun .... Of course we opt for the former (tan you want but nn char!) Just enough time to mount the curtain and we are already in the water with mask and snorkel from above ... if the sea was beautiful ... even under water does not disappoint ... i Fish are a lot (especially close to the rocks) and many species and colors .... For the first time I get the feeling of being surrounded by shoals of fish and is very beautiful ... I also forgot my fear of high water and go snorkeling and underwater photography. We were told that further out you can also see schools of grouper (fish from 40 kg up!)
After the swim Ste decides to relax under the tent while I climbed on the rocky coast opposite the island of rabbits ... At the top, I think I saw the most beautiful views of the island ... to the left of the beach right Cala Rabbits ... chick (also beautiful and accessible by sea or by land with 40 min. the walk) so there I improvised professional photography and I must say that the results are postcard (will be on the photographer or the subject?)
On my return to the beach Ste tells me that his nap was disturbed by a friendly snake who wanted to come to refrigerate a bit 'with him in the shade ... I imagine the fright! A final cooling bath and then the trek to get up the hill and return the scooter, to be sure the day was just relaxing nn but it was really worth the effort!
The effort goes rewarded with a night stopover in Rome ... Where Ste avenue enjoying a Coppone ice cream (incredibly creamy, ever eat ice cream as good) and I the inevitable ... classic mulberry granita siciliana to walk among the various shops and stands (I realize that the image of the turtle is exploited and marketed in all flavors: T-shirts with images, ornaments, ashtrays, jewelry shaped like a turtle ... all sin, then these animals if they occupy only volunteers WWF and Legambiente, without the help of local institutions)

Must have been around the turn of yesterday ... is that in the end we did the small hours of the day today ... but we shall not start before 11:30 .... Oh yes, it was just good to bed, we do our beautiful breakfast and brunch filiamo straight to the beach. Given the late hour, we opt to go to Cala Guitgia, the beach immediately after the port. To the beach of the country and so close to the harbor the water is still crystal clear, very beautiful sight from above but for us it is far too chaotic. Riccione and style: long lines of umbrellas, several people, a lot of chaos, the possibility to rent the Sea Bikes (bicycles with huge ruotone be used to bring all the pedals), the photographers taking pictures of tourists to buy bathers in the evening in Viale Roma ... for love ... in short we can not stay more than hour or 2 ... just long enough to break my thongs and go home. There, I will exchange slippers and Ste weapon of his fishing equipment ... next stop: Punta Sottile.
Punta Sottile is a rock peninsula and is located at the very south of Lampedusa, for this is both the most southerly point of mainland Europe. To get there you take a road that runs along the runway ... you pass Cala Sponges, Maluk Cala, Cala French and then the paved road ends, and after about 200 meters of dirt road we are on target.
Near thin end there are 2 beautiful inlets of cave mo .... It then goes before the establishment of fish farming and you get to the rock.
Here is the second accident of the day, or when I am among the rocks breaks my second pair of thongs (ke luck) ... but with spirit by Mac Gyver do a repair with the fishing line which is a bijoux! Ste delights with fishing, they say that there is a place full of fish, but what we can bring up is just wrong ... maybe pescina little technical!
Cmq since c'avevam now made the mouth of a fish dinner before heading back home we go to fish market and we take mussels and clams for the inevitable pepper and eggs from amberjack to make the dough ... result was surprising .... all washed down with a sparkling white vinellino .... Needless to say, then at night we were in a position to go out ...

But today awake almost dawn because we expect a busy day.
For the day we decided to gamble ... and hire a boat to go around the island "private" and visit the various bays with the times!
For rental we did some 'speed is the new port that the old one ... and who charter boats are all 40 hp then nn boat license is required to lead and are all equipped with awning for shelter from the sun during the hottest hours ... and cushions for a boat 2 seats are asking from 130 € to 100 € + gasoline .... Fortunately there nn despair and turn again and find the Diving Center Lo Verde we rent the boat at € 80 + petrol from € 130 ... well there goes the original ...
Before leaving Horace tells us that although when the weather is beautiful in the afternoon is likely to change quickly that forbids us to go around the island and we recommend that you do the south coast of the island still under ... let a turn to port as he explains how to drive a boat and then we start ... the trip was too funny .... beautiful because you can stop wherever you want .. maybe just time for a bath and then again ... but unfortunately the sea proves to be moved quickly enough .... We stop for lunch at Cala Chick ... beautiful, no words .... At about 15:00, however we share because my stomach nn longer holds the waves ... and thank goodness .... the way back was a nightmare ... in the meantime the sea had become very agitated, with that little boat we did some jumping from fear ... Ste proved a skilled captain ... but certainly a bit 'anxiety was coming ....
At around 16.00, we even called the head of the diving on his cell phone to see where we are and to warn that conditions are getting worse, so we strongly recommend returning ... No problem, after we just port ... what a relief to return to calm waters ...
Riconsegnamo the boat, laughing Goofy asks us how it happened and tells us that given the situation will certainly be an experience you will never forget! We believe!
Remain at the port to enjoy the sunset and then straight home.
For the evening we opt to go out to dinner ... I found a flyer advertising a place where you could eat couscous and grilled grouper at € 20, by reservation only.
Call for reservations and the girl tells us that dinner is at 21.30 .... This already makes us a bit 'strange ... cmq we get there and it was a beautiful evening too. Basically it is the form of a private club, we all eat together and make no more than 20 seats in the evening ... the tables are a little garden lit with candles and enriched by the fragrance of incense ... you eat well and bring you things continuously since if not you just say .... Eating there is also the possibility of meeting people, in fact we chatted all night with an amiable couple who had a dog Calabrese named because it originated in Italy during the World 2006.
The last glass of wine with almonds and then straight home.

The day starts with the best conditions ... in fact there's a fine sunny weather but now we are experts on the island and we see that the time promised nn well ... what's more, the sea is very rough .. our goal is the Dead Sea. This creek is so called because it is sheltered from the currents and hence is a place where the sea is mostly calm. In fact, when we arrive we realize that the difference with the other beaches there .... We take the opportunity to make an unscheduled bath ... In the afternoon, as expected, the weather changes and the sky is covered .... So that is useless to stay on the beach to suffer the heat and took the opportunity to go around the island on a scooter. ... We had a nice idea: The first stop was the Lighthouse .... is a fantastic place, it was also the time a little 'dull but here the atmosphere was indescribable ... that NN can shine in the photos or the words ... then the view from up there is beautiful, you have the sea as far as d' eye .... absolute silence, only the breaking waves on the rocks ... beautiful .... The road then continues along and across the North Island, sometimes there are spots where you can look down from the cliffs ... from there the volunteers make the sighting of dolphins and in particular can be Crucified see the falcons that nest on the rocks below ...
Otherwise, the road goes in the middle of nowhere .... some shepherd with goats ... then ... the desert expanses of arid land and dry stone walls to divide parcels of land ... come to O'Scià, local celebrities on the island, which is also hyper-marketed .... too touristy for us!
We also visit Casa Teresa, this is an old Dammuso (home typical of lampedusani) perfectly restored that gives an idea of how life there could be hundreds of years ago.
Continuing we arrive in the south, we skirt Cala Chick, Rabbit Island and reach the refuge Pinocchio ... a sort of center for the management of stray dogs on the island .... Nn talk of kennel because unfortunately no subsidies or state or local authorities ... .. the entire property is managed by one person (Paola) and is based on offers tourists. That is a sign invites visitors to leave the remains of their holidays there in the hut, so to feed the dogs that are always increasing. In fact about 15 dogs inside the shelter but there are many more out of the litters that are left there by anonymous to the shelter. Right now we have 2 litters for a total of 16 beasts waiting to be taken ... and you fall in love once you see them ... unfortunately I have nn space for another dog at home but some tourists have a chance, come back home with the dog to follow ... is a beautiful gesture, maybe everyone would like that! We have left in our little food and money and promises of economic aid the shelter after returning home.
Last stop at the monastery, dedicated to Our Lady, patroness of Lampedusa. ... beautiful building with a lush garden (maybe the first that I see throughout the island). Going home

Morning awakening nn is beautiful ... the heat is oppressive and gives the body a little .... so come back to Cala Croce is one of the best equipped beaches and spend the day there .... We also give a lunch at the beach bar ... a cous-cous with vegetables and a salad of octopus and potatoes to the modest sum of € 20 per person .... far too expensive for my tastes ... but it's gone! The day she spent there, the sea is always a bit 'rough, but the bathroom turned out to be fun, even without a mask and snorkel.
The other evening girettino in Viale Roma for the purchase of souvenirs and the inevitable granita

The desire to return to the island of rabbits is much pay So that we leave and head toward the goal .... Unfortunately the sea is very rough today and the beauty of the beach is affected significantly: nothing to do with the beautiful landscape that we had faced a few days before ... the sun beats, however, and today we rented a beach umbrella (7 € per day ), the day pass pleasantly between a bath, a walk on shore and moments of total relaxation in the shade (maybe playing cards, we're maniacs UNO)

Penultimate day ... already the gloom begins to attack us .... We decide to visit the beaches under the airport, even if there had been particularly recommended for the record ... we had to try those too! Sponges haul it there ... so also discourage Cala Maluk .... not noted for their beauty ... Cala French instead is quite nice .... a small, quiet beach where you can experience the thrill of being the only person to swim ... .. just what mica. Near the shore, on a rock that emerges from the water, there is a statue of Padre Pio ... for the rest is fairly anonymous.
In the evening we doing happy hour at a bar in the port where you have an aperitif over grilled fish and pasta salad .... very nice ... then for dinner we opt for the restaurant "The Thousand and One Nights" where the sign announcing the Sicilian and Tunisian specialties .... Of Tunisian nn was nothing short of Sicilian ... he ate pretty good, but € 45 for a first, a second and a salad struck me as a bit 'too!

And we are the day of departure SIGH!
The luggage was ready for nn which is that from .... Fortunately the residence where they lodge allows us to leave luggage at reception and it features a bathroom with shower for change after the day on the beach ... so we have a flight at 17.00 ....
So this morning we return to haul Crete, a place with which he was in love with Ste beginning of the holiday. ... Is beautiful as always ... sighted Claudio Baglioni has the house up there and sunbathe on a rock all alone ... At about 12:00 we greet the sea and we head downtown to do the last shopping "food" and have lunch .... Lunches in beautiful rotisserie based Sfincione (Sicilian pizza with the sauce), oranges and Sicilian cannoli ... how we miss this things ... .
It 'a very hot day, nn know if the temperature warmer or objectively because it is the first day that we're soaking nn, so that I do a solo ride on a scooter to do last photo reportage of the island and take a map fat to take home.
Come to us is shower .... ke is little point since we are sweating after 5 minutes again, and straight to the airport.
Check in is tiny and the people are so ... the excess baggage of 5 kg weight allowed and we complain that the beauty of € 35 for your trouble .... (I wonder why we had problems leg nn!)
For the rest nothing to argue ... it's exciting takeoff on the runway that ends directly on the sea, we also have the audience that we photograph .... the flight is fairly quiet and arrive on time .... back in Rome where it all began ...