Lakes Maggiore and Orta, Varese, Italy

By Luca, Sabrina and Federico

 

It 'the most classic and hot days of August, with a boss solleone, undisputed, high in the sky, when we leave, after a morning of work, and we go home to fix the last things in terms of departure for Lake Maggiore.
Frederick is not with us but by grandparents, just after lunch, around 15:00, so I am going to take: I was waiting impatiently, asking again and again when ever I had arrived. Sound the bell and, almost immediately, I see me running encounter with the happy face painted on. We welcome grandparents and, after the latest recommendations, go up the camper, new camper that Sabrina and I have not tried yet, does the small and already several times (only three days ago he returned from a short holiday in the Alps). We arrive and park in front of the house so you can load the need for the trip: Sabrina system things inside the camper, but I do and Federico forth carrying everything, so after a quick shower, we are prepared to 16:37 , all point to start. The heat is truly hellish and fortunately the new medium is also equipped with air conditioning.
A Faenza entering Highway, while the small, tired, already blessed sleeping in the bed back, and shortly after it reaches even Sabrina. Beyond Bologna, with the traffic conditions in our direction of travel, all things good (some are 'less in the other direction, where, at times, causing some delays inevitable code). Meanwhile on the horizon are big and gray Nuvoloni at 18:00, near Parma, begins to fall the rain accompanied by strong gusts of wind.
Now is night and wake up the two risers, which are not absolutely aware of the climatic changes along the way and I am quite surprised to reach the cabin. But, apparently, we were just touched by the storm, who runs away to the east and Milan before the sun returns to dominate the scene.
Shipped beyond the capital of Lombardy and proceed along the highway in the direction of Varese and the airport of Malpensa, clearly point toward the more diverse destinations being unforgettable trips and (we hope so warmly!) ... future. We leave behind the ramp to the airport and the junction to Varese, we still a few kilometers, at 19:30, leave the highway. A few minutes later we arrive on the southern shores of the lake, where they will become a river.
Lake Maggiore, which extends for 65 kilometers from north to south and has a maximum width of 5, despite the name is not the largest Italian lake (Lake Garda beats it) but, on the other is the deepest, with its 372 meters.
We begin to follow the eastern shore and, in short, we reach the town of Angera where, presumably, we will stay in view, the next morning, the visit to his fortress. We follow the signs to the castle, which rises in the top of a small hill and through a short but winding road we come to the parking lot adjacent to the entrance there is another camper (French) and we stop there.
After dinner we go to see the lake from above, but the sunlight is dim and the darkness is taking over ... does not matter: we will see tomorrow morning. So let's go back in the camper to spend the rest of the evening and wait for hours to lie down ... God is: the temperature is pleasant and the hot days seem a distant memory, so I think its a good move on that night and blessed sleep.

E 'was really a pleasure to sleep under blankets, enjoying the delicious warmth, with the crisp morning air that seems to take tickle the tip of the nose to wake up and give us the charge necessary to face the day.
The first to jump up on the bed is Federico, as impatient to visit the fortress. We know very well what i like castles, but we have to stop in its wave of enthusiasm, as it lacks a little 'to the time of opening and we have more time to make a quiet breakfast.
A few minutes before 9:30 we move towards the entrance and, officially, we started visiting. Heading in the ancient road paved with cobblestones that borders the walls and reach the balcony overlooking the entrance itself, from which you can enjoy a beautiful view over the lake, then up the tickets, cross the gate and enter the courtyard of the Rock of Angera, whose original nucleus dates back to the twelfth century and was built where there was already a defensive structure in Roman and Lombard. It was, for a certain period of its history, owned by the Visconti family, until, in 1449, went to Borromeo, who still retain it.
Just inside the wall is a small collection of agricultural tools and Federico, carried away, you let go at once to an interminable series of questions, then visited the so-called hall of justice, whose walls is an interesting cycle frescoes of three hundred, the young men are locked in literally climb the tower, whose top, thanks to the wonderful day, we observed a striking panorama that sweeps up the snow-capped peak of Monte Rosa, which appears in the distance behind the green hills that surround the lake.
Go and end up to take some 'time to curious doll museum, housed in several rooms of the castle, but not enthusiastic about Federico, who first observed the windows, cut, in practice, the remaining salt along the shortest route without giving special attention to the material. All this was interesting even if, sometimes, to tell the truth, a little 'boring.
We have not really let anything slip, and completed the visit, we return to the campers to continue to follow the road north along the lake.
E 'strip of asphalt rather closely what Angera comes from the village of Ranco but, fortunately, not very busy, so arrive with no particular problems to the "Museum of Transport Ogliari", founded in 1954 by Professor Francesco Ogliari: letters, writer and man of science. A true expert on the subject, which has gathered in the park of his villa on the result of over forty years of his research.
The museum allows you to run two hundred years of transport history, reviving emotions that seemed lost, and the parts are many, piled together, so one wonders how she can get and put them in those positions. Stands out among all the locomotive "8" Reggiane Railway, which was even asked to "recite" in the film Peppone and Don Camillo. Not missing anything on the subject, including old advertising posters, emitting tickets, tools, spittoons and insignia of the "stop"!
It 'been a really interesting visit, and, above all, completely free! Little has enjoyed a run of the world to scrap the old ones which, unfortunately, in most cases, would need a copious restoration and, ultimately, would not be absurd to expect a small contribution. Instead when we ask only a signature and a brief comment. Just to let our initiative a small offer for the Guardian before returning to the camper and return route.
It 'almost noon: walk a few miles and then follow a road on the left side, which leads in the vicinity of St. dell'Eremo Caterina del Sasso, there is a shady park and we stop for lunch.
A belly full, with the music in the background and a nice breeze that comes out of the windows not resist the temptation to take a nap and when we wake up the clock marks already 15:30. Immediately we get up and go to visit the hermitage, built from the XIII century and the Ambrosian hermits since 1379, passed in 1670, the Carmelites and was suppressed even in the second half of the eighteenth century. The province of Varese has purchased and funded the long restoration, completed in 1986. The structure was then entrusted to a community of Dominican friars.
To descend a steep staircase that runs between the vegetation along the steep banks of the lake, seizing, among other things, the opportunity to gather a few wild strawberries, and come short in the complex religious, scenographically clinging to the rock wall to a dozen meters from the surface of.
We visit a place immersed in an atmosphere charged with mysticism, where silence and peace reign uncontested, we enjoy the panoramic views and provide some 'attention to the small church, beautifully painted, then, calmly, face the tough climb ( 268 steps!), which brings us back to the camper.
Let us return to the streets and, along the lake, past the Swiss-Italian border in the village of Zenna, where a customs official red cross that we had asked to produce passports, given the source, we question the reason for our presence at Lake Maggiore, considering that most of the people of the place does exactly the opposite, and goes on holiday on the Adriatic Coast ... answer that we are just looking for some 'fresh: it's an excuse and, in fact, the reason is far more complex, but enough time to clear.
Continue for another few kilometers to the north and arrive at the northern end of the lake, then all'ipotetico turning point, then stop, shortly after, in the city of Locarno, situated in a beautiful location on the shores of the lake basin and surrounded by high peaks .
Parked near the port and, given the time, give us a walk with its lakefront, with Frederick that follows cycling so we spend a couple of hours of pleasant relaxation. On the way back to enchant us see all the stages of preparation of a mime that in the end, all white from head to foot, is placed on a pedestal to the statue, and we also left a bid, but we do not have French Swiss pocket and continue. It is really good in the open air and when we return from the walk is long past 20:00, and dinner and spend the rest of the evening in the camper.

It is divinely under the blankets: ignore an alarm that rings at 8:30 and for a good half hour stay in dormiveglia, to enjoy the pleasant sensation.
Almost 10:00 when we leave Locarno following the road that runs along the western shore of the lake. Paths several kilometers away and bequeathed to the town of Brissago past customs and return to Italy. Shortly after we arrived in the town of trafficatissima Cannobio, from where we leave the coastal road to follow what goes in the Valley Cannobina. Ascending for a short stretch, as far as the junction where we find the signs to the Ravine St. Anna, who we reach through a short but very narrow road, along which, fortunately, does not find other means.
We leave the camper in a small parking area and we look at the ravine, a deep gorge carved by a stream that reaches emerge near a small church (presumably named after St. Anne) and jumped by a dramatic stone bridge. Descend to the base of the gorge where the river widens, forming a sort of pebble beach and where there are some divers who, in turn, to dive down among the rocks. In the silence, interrupted only by the rinse water flowing, shoot some photos, while Federico jumping from one run to another rock, then go back on our feet and face the climb that takes us back to the camper.
The place really deserves a visit and leave with satisfaction, addressing again the nice little stretch of road (a little more than a mule track road), without any other means.
So let's go back to traverse the western shore of the lake and, to a certain extent, on our left, half water, are the ruins of the castles of Cannero dating to the thirteenth century and was originally inhabited by the brothers Mazzardi, so-called "Mazzardini "robbers who held it for several years to iron and fire all over the coast until, in 1414, surrounded on all sides and exhausted from lack of air carrier, gave up. The castles then became property of the Borromeo family, which, over time, gradually abandoned them to themselves, and started their inevitable ruin.
We leave behind the castles and Cannero continue. Beyond the city of Verbania (fresh provincial capital) and arrive in Pallanza, where we stop on the lakeside, in the parking lot of the famous Villa Taranto, who will visit in the afternoon.
While Sabrina prepares lunch accompany Frederick to see the boats in and near a small marina: our return to a good plate of pasta steaming ahead.
Refresh a bullet, without hurry, then adjust the camper, on foot, we reach the entrance to the magnificent complex of the gardens of Villa Taranto, which occupy the entire north eastern side of a promontory Extending the lake. The building of the villa (now the headquarters of the Prefecture and not open) is located in the upper part of the park, away from the white gates of entry. E 'in the Norman style, free and was built relatively recently, in the late nineteenth century by a certain Count Orsetti and, in 1900, bought by the Count of S. Elia, chamberlain of the court of Savoy, which, in turn, in 1931, sold it to Captain Neil McEacharn Antonio, archer queen of England. And 'thanks to the assiduous and methodical work of the Scottish gentleman, a lover of nature and beautiful things, if we today can visit the beautiful botanical gardens of Europe. Pity only that we can not do so during their full glory, when, in spring, are an infinite explosion of colors. In August, many plants have already been near misses, but the lawns are green and well cared for, the majestic trees and flowers were on display stand in the perfect geometry of flower beds.
We visit the park by following the path marked on a map, which Richard claims to follow too closely, so that takes us all the time seems not to understand that we respect. Among the numerous botanical wonders we see in a greenhouse, the huge Victoria Regia water lilies, which had recently seen in Mauritius, in the gardens of Pamplemousses, but in that case were in the open air! The visit was pleasant and immersed in nature we have traveled several kilometers that there shall be weighed. In the end, however, we give an ice cream, which tasted great in the shade of a tree with the view that spans the lake in front of us, then, satisfied, we return to the camper.
We continue to travel the route and, according to forecasts, we leave, even temporarily Lake Maggiore to reach the nearby Lago d'Orta, a body of water much smaller (only 13 kilometers long and 2 wide), which has its own particularity: it is the only Italian mountain lake whose waters flow from south to north, then exit, to retreat to the east and throw in Lake Maggiore.
Our destination is the village of Orta S. Giulio, at one half of the eastern shore, to whose notice the beautiful suburbs Villa Crespi, transformed into a luxury hotel and then not open. E 'Sunday afternoon and the city center is unapproachable, as it is invaded by tourists more than anything local, so go up to the Sacro Monte, a hill that rises behind the town, where, among other things should also be a' parking area for campers. The park and find means without particular difficulties, but it is still early to "throw the still definitely" and so we visit the Sacro Monte, in which they are situated, surrounded by a forest of trees, twenty chapels dedicated to illustration of life of St. Francis of Assisi, and the adjoining convent of the Cappuccini. All this can not be defined without interest, but it is the panorama of the lake and the island of St. sull'antistante Giulio to delight the eyes and make the experience particularly enjoyable.
The day draws to a close when we return to the camper to consume a well-deserved shower and a quiet dinner, after which all the required loading and unloading water, which should allow us to arrive at the end of the trip without any problems. Expect campers, playing cards, time to sleep and certainly not chatted with our neighbors ... French and Germans are!

At night, in the silence of the Sacro Monte, has gone in an instant and it is now almost 9:00 when we get up, while outside the sun always shines (third day in succession: a rare thing in these parts!).
We do breakfast and then descend, with the camper, for Orta yesterday (Sunday) the parking was unapproachable, today (Monday) we find the place. We will venture to walk in the heart of the village, characterized by narrow streets lined with typical buildings, which, however, in most cases, would need a copious restoration. Very nice, however, the central Piazza Motta, who welcomes us to the lakeside protected by large trees lined up like sentinels: fifth green with a splendid view over the lake and overlooking the island of St. Giulio. But attention is also attracted by the beautiful Palace of the Community of Riviera, characterized by the ground floor arcade.
From the pier in front of the square we board to reach the island of St. Julius, on which we arrive after a few minutes away. After landing we take to follow the only existing path, typically paved with granite slabs and boulders, on this street are interesting buildings (in need of restoration as those of Orta), and before long we are, almost without it, the point of departure, having completed the circumnavigation of the island. We can only visit the basilica, which will open its doors at 11:00. Not missing much, and there we sat waiting on a bench by the lake, then scheduled, Crossing the Threshold of religious, dating from the twelfth century. It is not major, but inside it stand out and interesting frescoes in the crypt under the altar, is the body of S. Julius: the religion to which we owe the spread of Christianity in the area.
After visiting climb on the first available boat and return to Orta. Some vague 'for the country, we follow the ascent of the so-called Motta, flanked by ancient buildings and some curiosities' among the shops, then, almost at noon, we return to the camper, but we do not stop. We immediately put on the street and reach, on the other side of the lake, the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso, which is located high up on a rocky outcrop, to dominate the lake, and can be reached via a road that goes bends at all ... there, finally, we stop.
After lunch, with calm, let's visit the shrine, which has nothing special, if we exclude the pleasant view from the balcony that overlooks the lake (only sin for mist).
The visit to remember, however, again, for another reason: just inside the church, due to a step made smooth from wear, Sabrina falls Peel the knees, like a child, and is a po 'da ridere thinking all'accaduto but it is better not to give him to understand why you, of course, is angry, so we try to minimize it while in a small way, we go back to the camper to resume their journey.
We back all the way until Orta, then turn to another, bypassing the hills, it should get, again, to Lake Maggiore, but almost immediately encounter a little reassuring sign about the height of a tunnel too risky continue, do front and behind us we looking for an alternative route. We lose a little 'time but in the end we find it and we will venture between the sweet hills that divide the two lakes, then, near the ... More, take the road that leads to the Mottarone, a peak from which one can admire a magnificent panorama, but now half of the climb, we really impressive the amount of mist ... useless to continue: invert the route and descend in Stresa, a famous and historic resort lies on the banks of the lake.
Are in place to stop for a camper located directly opposite the Borromean Islands, which will visit tomorrow, and here we are going to take information about prices and hours of shipment, then do a short walk along the lake.
The day, which turns so the term in peace, it moves after dinner. While I was in the open air, Sabrina suddenly heard a strange noise: it seems that water flows ... calls me and I fell down, listening for a moment and understand the problem, try the switch, and when I find, I hide the current ... the strange noise plate ... not plate the water instead, which is beginning to filter from the base of the cabinet under the sink and flooding the floor. At least worse try to stem the flow, which gradually stops. Remove the front of the cabinet and, fortunately, the individual suffered a failure: a sleeve! One stupid sleeve that has literally unscrewed! Beato Federico that seems fun, while we, armed with a few rags and a lot of patience, we can arrange it all ... but that sweat!
And 'now, inevitably, later, when we leave for a walk, refreshed by the beautiful view here that Bella, enlightened, stands out in the middle of the lake a few hundred meters from us, as are also some enlightened luxury hotel we meet along the way .
We conclude, the troubled evening in a playground for children, in which Frederick is raging to the point that ... ends up being evil ... nothing serious, but enough so to trigger the most classic of unpleasant and unnecessary "tragedy" a culmination of the day ... and mesti, mesti it back to the camper.

The day will be devoted to visit the Borromean Islands, ownership of the family since the twelfth century. Face to that stretch of the lake which stretches directly in front of the parking lot, so, after breakfast, on foot, we reach the point of shipment and we are now lured by one of the many companies that offer boat service between the three islands (in our case is the "Vs").
In men who do not say we are, with ticket in hand, on a small boat, which in a few minutes, leads us to land on Isola Madre, the largest of the archipelago.
The beginning of the transformation of the island in the place of residence can be traced back to 1501, and is due to Count Borromeo Lancellotti, but failed to complete the work. It was not until the end of the century and another Borromeo (Renato) to see the current take the body in its entirety. They are beautiful and well maintained gardens, with peacocks and pheasants free to run anywhere, not at all intimidated by the presence of tourists, and also interesting is the building from severe architecture Mannerist style, both outside and inside, where , among other things, there is a space dedicated to the puppet theater, with a rich collection of scenes and puppets.
Throughout the park, given the heat of these days, are plenty and water is a source of great fun for Federico passing, running, in the vicinity of irrigators seeking to avoid splashing.
Thus, we arrive, after nearly two hours, at the end of the visit and climb on a boat that, in short, we carry Fisherman Island, the only one of three which is only a village and not a resident of Borromeo. It seems to do the job: it's almost noon and we put ourselves in search of a place in which to meet the languor that are inevitably growing.
We, in practice, all lanes of the village and there we stop at a restaurant by the lake: nice, though perhaps too close to the pier for berthing of ferries. Eat a good meal, but the little he enjoys throwing breadcrumbs into the water and gathers a small zoo consisting of fish, seagulls, ducks and sparrows, that all together make a great noise.
At 14:00 we put ourselves back in motion and climb on that boat, this time, the Isola Bella with us ... and the name should be a guarantee!
Work on its construction was begun by King Charles III Borromeo in 1632 and subsequently broken by the outbreak of a serious epidemic. He was the son, Vitaliano IV, who had to resume construction of the building to bring it almost to completion in the last decades of the seventeenth century. Many works, however, were only completed in the decades and even centuries later.
Although the project has continued in the complex time Bella is so strongly united as a whole, inspired by a single vision: to give the island the appearance of a stationary ship on the waters of lake.
We visit the palace, located on the north-west and is characterized by lavish environments, among which stands out the great hall of the feasts, which grows in height to two storeys. Very interesting are the artificial caves (which are accessed via a spiral staircase), decorated to evoke marine environments. But what is imprinted visit the magnificent and well-kept gardens, which occupy the entire summit and south-east of the island.
With his eyes still full of wonder, finally abandoning the island and come back on land.
We are just in the middle of the afternoon and decide to spend relaxing in the rest of the day: we put ourselves in costume, take mat and beach games and we go on the lake shore. There is also the sand and so Federico digs a nice hole, just as the sea, only the landscape is different, as we are surrounded by mountains and with the Isola Bella in front of us. Federico and I also do a bath the water is freschina but sopportabilissima, and think that if someone had told me before you leave I would have taken him for crazy!
We so enjoy the warm rays of the sun, until they, inevitably, is below the sinuous line that defines the shape of the surrounding hills, then back to the camper for a quick shower and dinner.
Later we go on the lake: the wait is nerve-wracking but, shortly after 23:00, at Pallanza, on the other side of the lake, break out, finally, the fireworks to celebrate the outcome of a beautiful day .

If the good days you can see by the morning, that we are going to start, will not be an exciting day: despite the almost 9:00 the little do not want to know to get up from bed angry and we need a little 'to convince him, so we start in slight delay.
Stresa past and come to Villa Pallavicino, a neoclassical style building built nell'Ottocento and surrounded by landscaped gardens, which was originally a small animal park. But parking in front of the campers do not want to blame, as we reported, some imbecile who, a couple of years ago, decided to discharge the sewage in its. For several miles along the road there are other possibilities for parking and, it seems incredible, but we must renounce the visit! Fortunately Federico does not make this a tragedy, and rather disappointed, however, we continue the journey, so that turns sharply at the end.
We arrive at Arona, now at the northern end of the lake and take a road that rises above the village, where the so-called Colossus of S. Carlo one of the largest statues in the world, made of copper and bronze and resting on a huge granite plinth. It was built in the second half of the seventeenth century in honor of St. Carlo Borromeo, an illustrious citizen of Arona, and then watches, with all its grandeur, the waters of Lake Maggiore.
You can climb the statue, but it is not granted to children under eight years and Sabrina's afraid, so, courtesy of a supervisor, I accompany the small almost to half of the climb, partly satisfied his curiosity, then , alone, I come to the final stretch, actually quite challenging, and I am going to head ... the feeling is really strange: I watch the scene through the holes of the eyes and nostrils, then, satisfied, I come down and go back to support your feet on the ground.
At this point, our journey would end, but not wanting to leave before noon, go up the hills above Arona, Mercurago in places where there is an area equipped for camping: it would pay, but let's say you need a 'Time to make us stop and park. Not much to do, but there are a few games for kids and a beautiful lawn, and have lunch in the open air, reviving a little 'atmosphere, then rearranged everything to 13:45 and we are ready to face the journey return.
In short we reach the lake bottom and a few minutes later we are on the motorway. We stop for coffee and a topping off fuel, then we run the semi-strip of asphalt, given the hyper-day festive Midsummer (it is August!). Even before the Milan and Sabrina Federico blessed sleep on the bed at the bottom of the camper, so just rest in the company of the radio. Fila everything smooth risers and the two emerging from the world of dreams around Bologna.
To 17:00 o'clock we are at Forlì. We stop to get the tanks at 17:21 and we face at home. We had a great vacation, even if short (little more than a trip), which was especially relaxing and ideal for a period in which the major towns of the sea are unapproachable, but do not despair because soon, perhaps, have occasion to deal with a travel much more substantial, without diminishing the beauty of Lake Maggiore.