Trekking of Etna - In the forge of Cyclopes

"... We spend the night here, on the straw, to see the sunrise on the back of the crater. Left the mules you begin to climb the frightening wall of hardened ash that falls under the steps, which does not offer a point of grip and takes you down a step every three. You make this climb suffering, breathing strong, sinking in soft ground the nailed stick and stopping so much times. you must then point the stick between your legs to avoid slipping down, because the slope is so steep that you can not even remain seaten "
Guy de Maupassant (1885)

Guy de Maupassant described with these words his ascent on Etna. It was 1885, and now, even those who don't use the lifts can access it through convenient paths, although we can not escape the fatigue and we must give respect and caution to the volcano, especially near the summit craters. Near the top, returned to my mind an expressive thought of Leonardo da Vinci:
"What does make you move, men, to leave from your homes in the city, to leave relatives and friends, and to go in rural places of mountains and valleys, if not the natural beauty of the world?".
What else can have pushed me, together with my comrades, to face four days of walking with particularly heavy backpacks (with necessity to be completely self-sufficient, even with food and water supplies, no possibility of any kind of support), to sleep on the ground and bear strong winds sometimes, if not the charm and beauty of these wild places?
Etna, also called Mongibello, from the Latin-Arab Mons and Jebel, "Great Mountain" or, as Sicilians familiarly call him, "a Muntagna", is the highest active volcano and Europe's largest, with its 3343 metres of height and with an average radius of 20 kms. Its presence influenced both the culture and the lives of all etneic villages, whose inhabitants live in symbiosis with the volcano itself. Its smoke columns, explosions and lava flows are now a routine for those who reside here, and means only to never forget that there is a volcano under their feet. Along its sides there are a large number of craters, united in over two hundred groups, among which the most famous are certainly Monti Rossi, in the south, toward Nicolosi, who originated from eruption of 1669.

 

The Eruptions
The first eruption, occurred about 700.000 years ago, was underwater, since the whole area was occupied by a gulf, the emergence occurred later after the accumulating lava and a general lifting of the area.
Even the ancients knew the volcanic nature of Etna, indicated as forge of Vulcano and Cyclops. Or as the backbone of the sky, that lays beneath the giant Typhoon, which twisting himself, shook the ground. Pindar and Aeschylus have described how wonderful the eruption of 475 BC was. Among the ancient eruptions is also to report the one happened in 396 BC, which came to the sea, in medieval times the most impressive of all is certainly that of 1329 which issued a triple lava casting, to threaten the territory of Catania, then invaded by casting of 1381. In modern era the most famous was in 1669, preceded by local earthquakes, March 11th opened a leak from the central crater in Nicolosi. Approaching today the following eruptions deserve to be cited: The 1811 one, which formed many mouths including Mount Simon in the valley of Bove; the 1843 one, reaching a very wet ground, caused a violent explosion that killed several curious, the 1852 one that threatened Zafferana; the 1879 one which began simultaneously on the South and North sides, the eruption of 1892 which formed four large craters called Monti Silvestri.
There have also been eruptions in the last century. In 1917 from the mouth of NE lava was lifted about 800 metres high which poured in a few minutes. Three million cubic meters of very flushing lava. The most violent eruption of the first half of the century was 1928 one, flown from a long slit, that came up to Mascali, destroying it. Many other minor eruptions further altered the appearance of volcano.

The Park
The first proposal for the establishment of was made in 1960. In 1980, thousands of people participated in a march to demand the establishment of Zingaro reserve, which was established in 1981 with an Act of Sicilian Parliament . In 1987 the Etna park was definitively established over an area of approximately 45000 hectares, divided into A and B zones, and an area of 14000 hectares of pre-park divided into C and D zones.

Zone A
The A zone is the most protected and covers 19000 hectares, including the summit craters up to 870 metres / asl in the area of Mount Minardo. The objective here is to protect the original ecosystem that is little altered because of the small human presence, presence destinated to gradually decrease. At high altitudes the territory is characterized by craters and lava deserts, while at lower levels you can meet forests of beech, birch and larch pine. There are no settlements, except for some forest work shelters.
Zone B
The B area is extended on 26000 hectares ranging from 1880 meters / asl of Mount Vetore to 640 metres / asl of Gorna Mount. Its territory is covered by forests of larch pine, oak and cerro. The secular agricultural activity that affects this area has formed a unique contrast between traditional rural and natural landscape, forming an area characterized by terraces with vineyards and orchards, with ancient manor houses and peasants farmhouses that, without the establishment of the park, would have been replaced by concrete and asphalt. In this area new residential construction purposes, hunting and mining activities are forbidden, but instead the construction of infrastructure to serve traditional agriculture are allowed.
Zone C
This part of pre-parK covers an area of 4300 hectares and is located at an altitude between 600 and 800 meters / asl. Its purpose is to allow a compatible-with-the natural-environment development, by allowing the establishment of tourist facilities. In this area there is a strong presence of agricultural crops, but also of natural vegetation. It is prohibited to build second houses. There are also two Zone C areas at higher levels; they are two separate territories, with a total area of about 800 hectares within the Zone A, where are located ski lifts, hotels and other infrastructures which were the first establishments of the park.
Zone D
It is the most external pre-park area, that covers a space of 9700 hectares. Its main objective is to enable a development that does not interfere with the purposes of the park. Here construction of new houses is allowed, but following criteria compatible with this environment.

The Trekking
At 2:00pm, on May, 18th we land in Fontanarossa airport in Catania where we expect to find Fabio, our guide. After the purchase of food and water, necessary for all planned day, we reach with a minibus Serra della Nave, in the town of Nicolosi, the starting point for trekking. The Etna area is very poor in water resources; water of the few wells that we meet is not available for drinking purpose, so you must supply some before departure. The loads of food and water (36 litres) has made our backpacks very heavy, certainly exceeding up to 20 kgs the departure limit. Their transport was the greatest difficulty of our journey. At 6:00pm we start to march for the first short stage which takes place on a totally flat and large mule track. We pass aside the S. Giovanni Gualberto Forest refuge, at 8:00pm, we reach the Galvarina refuge, final destination of the stage and place where we will pass our first night. On the slopes of Etna there are dozens of these small unattended shelters, creating a space in which there are a table, benches and a small fireplace, where you can light the fire. The single bed is the floor, there aren't cots and other places to sleep in, so you must adapt to the hard ground. Despite the stage was short, we are all happy to be able to download once arrived, because of the weight of our backpacks, and we comforted by the thought that in the coming days we'll light them due to the consumption of food and water. After dinner, in the dark of night, two small points of light are approaching the refuge. They are the phosphorescent eyes of a tiny fox which, not at all frightened by us, is in search of food; she cautiously arrives few meters from us to collect the pieces of bread which we cast. The natural instinct allows her to understand that she had nothing to fear from our presence.

Departure at 7.30 for the second stage, longer than the previous year and with backpacks still heavy; yesterday evening perhaps we should eat and drink in large quantities for alleggerirli more. The trek winds again today on a mule track that, with a continuous up and down, clockwise around the mountain remained on quotas between 1600 and 1800 metres / asl. After about 30 minutes walk reach the refuge Poggio Hunting, another of the many small shelters that meet on our way. Short stop for a visit and to download the back by the weight of the backpack, then the march resumed. After another half an hour we reach the Cave of Monte Nunziata that only admire from the outside; on the slopes of Etna are many caves lava that unfortunately we do not have the time to visit in depth. The stage today is characterized by an alternating of forests of pines, birches and beeches, with lava flows, the green of the trees, which comes up on the margins of lava, and many of yellow broom flowers create a wonderful contrast to the black lava flows, even several kilometres long. Near the refuge of Monte excavation, we encounter on our journey, is located a well with water that, while not drinking, allows us to rinfrescarci and at least wash your face, because we stay where there was water and thus no possibility of wash. This is also part of trekking and knowing it must accept. Around noon we reach the refuge of Monte Spanish where pause for lunch. This small shelter is located between beautiful pines that form with their arms inviting a shadow that can not be waived. Considering that the goal of our stage is fairly close, we remain up to 15 to poltrire near the refuge, even to escape the hottest hours of the day. Included the way, we reach 17 to the refuge Saletti, our goal of the second stage. We are not alone, a group of hikers Netherlands, with which divide the refuge, keeps us company until the following morning.

Wake at 6:00am and departure at 6:45am for the second stage, now the journey continues in gentle slope on the same mule track over the past days, until Timparossa refuge where we arrive at 10:00am. The weight of backpacks on our shoulders, fortunately, begins to decline. We make a brief stop to visit the surroundings of the refuge and, after an early lunch at noon, we walk back. The mule track ends, and running smoothly continues on a path that, after a slight descent resumes to rise. Even the landscape changes radically: the woods, which with their shadows gave us a bit of freshness, are replaced by huge lava flows of 1911 and 1923. Fortunately, the sun is veiled by a slight haze that ,although doesn't decrease heat, repairs from rays of sun at least. Shortly before reaching the goal of today, represented by Piano Provenzana, we cross an area rich of old inactive craters. The place has the "charm" of hell's antechamber: the immense expanses of black lava flows, which wind our path, are interrupted only by the craters that arise. In the distance, the presence of some trees and green grass, indicates that our goal is near. At 02:00pm we reach Piano Provenzana, a resort at side of the road road, with kiosks selling souvenirs and postcards. Near this resort there are also several skilifts for winter sports. We can finally afford the luxury of drinking something cool and use the services of a bar to give us a refresh. Here there are no shelters, as in the stretch of road walked a few days earlier, so we decide to camp around a skilift plant which, being placed slightly apart and used only in the winter season, we think could be an excellent place to spend the night. In front of us, about 1,5 Kms higher, the summit craters dominate the scene. With the arrival of darkness, from the northeast crater, we can see small magma movements: there are flashes of a bright red which were not visible during the day. Tomorrow will try to get as possible closer to them.

At 5:00am we are all awake. Considering the length of the stage and the discreet climb that awaits us, we decide to leave as soon as possible. At 6:15 we begin to travel the 18 kms long (and 1300 metres in altitude) path that separates us from the bottom of craters. The backpacks are relatively light, being the last day of journey we don't need larger quantities of food and water, even because the path, although long, rises gradually and so is quite easy. The landscape is the same of classic volcanic areas: huge expanses of lava without any presence of vegetation. Going at high altitudes the wind, which already manifested in the night, increases intensity and greatly hinders the pace. At about 2700 meters / asl a detour allows us to reach a Volcanological Observatory. The trail, totally flat, crosses on ridge, for about 1 km, a hill called Piano delle Concazze. On this plateau fury of the wind reaches its climax: the gusts exceeded 100 km/hour, with the volcanic sand penetrating everywhere, especially mouth and eyes, the skin feels endless punctures as perforation of pins, caused by the impact of sand carried at high speed. The balance is unstable, the strength of the wind tends to get you rolling on the ground and taking you with itself. We find a shelter around the Observatory where we paused ½ an hour, unfortunately the wind shows no signs of decrease, so we have to be brave to cross the plateau again, challenging his violence unleashed. Returning to the main path, being in a less exposed area, we find a relative calm and continue towards the summit craters. Once under the craters, to 3100 metres / asl, an unexpected surprise welcomes us: the path we followed so far, that was the one on northern area of Etna, is closed; and the connection with path that goes down in the south, although marked on the map we are examining, was swept and removed some years ago by a lava flow. To continue we are forced to cross, for about 1 km, a stretch of the lava without the help of a minimum track though. The difficulty is not in finding the right direction, just around the craters remained the same proportion in which we are, but is represented by blocks of lava that are sharp and volatile. Once overcame this obstacle, with great expenditure of energy and time, the ground becomes sandy, so the journey gets easier, even if your feet sink in the sand that hinders the march. Once gained the trail again, we reach in a short time the Torre del Filosofo refuge at 2919 meters / asl. Even though we knew that it was not agibile, as half submerged by a recent lava flow, we thought to be able to camp here, protected by its walls, to admire the craters closely in the darkness of night. We planned to stay there overnight and again the following morning. The temperature, which, with the decline of the evening, had fallen considerably combined with the strong wind (although it had not with the vehemence encountered on Piano delle Concazze) which continued to raise sand and dust, have forced us to desist from. A hundred meters below us we see a dirt road where stop two off-road buses, should it be a better occasion to ask for a ride? Luckily we save three hours of journey, infact we come easily to the near station of Etna's cable car and refuge Wisdom (restructuring and therefore not agibile) at 05:30pm. Our faces, covered by black lava sand brought by the wind, are indescribable and almost unrecognizable, fortunately we can take advantage of services offered by the cable car station to wash and change clothes. Tomorrow morning the van will arrive to get us back to the airport for return flight. The shelter is closed, so we expect another night camped outdoors, but here in 1850 metres / asl the temperature is acceptable and even the wind has turned into a pleasant breeze. We even discovery that the place is a restaurant-pizzeria; that raises more our moral that, despite the various hardships, has always been high. At last we can make a real dinner and toast to the happy conclusion of our trek.