Two days along the tracks of the Apuan Alps.. A trip inside the nature of Tuscany, Italy

Three days to discover the natural park of Apuan Alps.

Robert was still winter when we proposed this route, a short trek, organized by the rackets, the Apuan Alps. Now we are interested in this route, but unfortunately the dates are not congenial to the work of Mark so I decide to go alone. Alone so to speak because in the end we were 51.

 

We left at 7 am in the direction of Levignani where we arrived shortly before lunch. The day is sunny and pleasant, maybe a bit hot for us used to the bad weather that haunt us for days.
Levigliani is located at an altitude of 650 meters, in a special position at the foot of Corchia, surrounded by woods of chestnut. Looking up into the mountains we see the unmistakable marble mines. As soon as we left the highway still got to deal with a load-bearing resources of this area.
It is said that it was the Apuan, of clear Ligure, the first inhabitants of this territory, even before becoming a Roman possession.

Without lunch we divide the two groups to visit the caves of dell'Antro Corchia.
These caves, about 60 km of tunnels and shafts, are located in what might be termed the biggest karst system currently known in Italy: the Monte Corchia. For the presence of all these tunnels and caves Corchia Mount is also called "The Hollow Mountain".
Since 2001 he has been furnished a distance of approximately 2 km, with walkways and steps, to permit the exploitation of tourism in the area, and this is the route, accompanied by a guide, we'll do in this fantastic underground world.
Our guide is very bright and the visit in addition to being interesting is also very pleasant. When the guide is not very bright is reduced to a list of ideas and information that the poor tourists hear a yawn, but if driving is brilliant, as in this case, the same knowledge and information is assimilated by the tourist with great pleasure and also with a bit 'of greed as he is told.

From the village of Levigliani take the shuttle bus that takes us to the entrance dell'Antro and after wearing a shirt, in the cave of moderate hover around 6-7 degrees, and put down our backpacks we are ready to follow the Driving along the tunnels and the wonders of this place.
The first to explore the Cave of Corchia was a Simi Emilio, a naturalist of his original Levigliani in 1840.
Stalactites, stalagmites, columns, even a pond, is an example of the wonders that our eyes meet as they we enter the cave. The best part, I think, is no doubt that we cross the ring at about the halfway point. Spectacular!

After leaving the caves we prepare for the climb to the refuge. The sun is really hot. Take the next path that climbs the mountain zizagando. The heat is perhaps the worst aspect of this climb. Arriving abreast of the Alpine (d. 1080) now enjoy a beautiful view on what will be, in part, our itinerary for tomorrow: Mount Forato, Nona, Procinto. The day was magnificent and the scenery is very beautiful.
We continue our walk and arrive in the valley where the shelter Mosceta Del Freo (d. 1180), where we spend the night. From the caves to reach the little hut in an hour.
Not far from the shelter there is a spring, which saw the heat, is under siege. We also have three cats that wander undisturbed among the people. They are beautiful chubby!

We await the arrival of the second group to proceed with the allocation of rooms. Hard work for the poor Walter, standing in front, try to deploy the rooms trying not to do wrong to none and trying to reconcile all these good little heads. In all this mess to me, Roberta, Paola Fabrizio and touches the only room for four.

Time to settle in all the rooms, preparing the beds and has also come forward to dinner. On these occasions, the meals are always moments of pleasant moments, social networking, chat and also a way to know us better. The dinner was excellent and plentiful. Spectacular pasta al pesto alla Genovese! We conclude with a fantastic dinner filled with chocolate and ricotta tart, once home, I plan to do too!

After dinner the group moved into the courtyard of the hut, who sat on benches, some standing on the stairs or who you spend what remains of the evening waiting to go to bed. To 22 are the lights of the hut, but because of the long walk the next day is not the case in the small hours. A small group decided to take a walk in the direction of Mount Corchia.

Sleeping in shelters, we do not know why, it's never a big fun. It always happens that the Russian who falls asleep quickly and sleep well was strangely heavy. The poor with light sleep, myself included, are always those who stay awake because they can not fall asleep with a concert produced by the others.
It's never easy to share a room among many people, the needs and habits of all are not always in agreement, what I think we should do in these situations is to try to adapt a little 'to others, leaving perhaps by self-interest or needs personal.
At 22 the lights are turned off and soon the silence surrounding the hut, most of the group is now in bed as well as Paula and I think we can safely fall asleep.
Later covered by Fabrizio and Roberta from their evening walk, and even if they try to plan, the small noises of doors opening, whispers, the typical sound of zippers, bags, or just walking on the wooden floor wakes me up. Also decide to make a change to furnishing of the room by moving the beds ... oh, well ...

Today is a busy day. Wake up early, breakfast and departure at 7.30, this is the program to start the day.
Just wake up quickly gather my things and decided to go to fix the rucksack out of the shelter on a bench. The room is very small and there is already enough chaos and stuff scattered around that there is no need to increase the confusion with my stuff. Better off the bench.
While the system of cats, a backpack, a big cat for the accuracy of the refuge system next to my backpack and see my work. It is a beautiful cat, while I do some photo seems to be posing like a diva. Nice!

Breakfast and for 7 and a half we were all ready in the courtyard of the shelter with backpackers. Ready .. away!
This morning, fortunately, in front of the pack is that Walter has a very good, from my point of view, pace, and most importantly it is regular and consistent .. Well well ... certainly better than yesterday afternoon where the team leader started with a pitch that looked like we lost the train!

Our tour today begins with the climb up what is called the Queen of the Apuan Alps (some call the mother of the Apuan Alps) which is the Pania della Croce. From the hut, he sees the top of the huge cross placed on top.
The path I walk zigzagging rooms on the west side of the mountain. Going up we meet a group of wild sheep (females and children), an occasional animal above the ridge. As in the Alps, the wild sheep are not an indigenous species but have been introduced in past centuries. Ungulates are originating from Sardinia and Corsica. Introduced on the Apuan Alps and are easily adapted, even though the winters bring snow and hard drives to test these animals. They have a rather stocky body and a reddish brown color, characteristic of this species. Some people, seeing them, but argues that chamois color and body size are not at all similar to those of the chamois and females, they are not carriers of horns. The horns of males are similar to those of a ram and develop with this particular spiral shape throughout the course of their lives.
In the past, these lands were inhabited by bears, wolves, lynx and deer. Mammals are no longer present in the park. As I said above in the past were introduced mouflon and other species such as wild goats, but not even the shadow of chamois. So those who argue that there are chamois got it all!
The chough is a symbol of the park, but given my lack of ability to recognize birds due to the fact that both families have in my technical wildlife trust, I have not much hope of being able to watch over and better recognize this bird. Too bad ...

We stop for some photos and a bit to reassemble 'the group scattered across the mountainside, near the crest sull'anticima and then continue to the top. The trail is wide and comfortable, just like I do. Too bad the day is beautiful and mists peep here and the hiding the view. In any case, see the mountains rising from the sea of fog is always a fascinating spectacle.
So we reach the peak of Pania della Croce (1859 m). A huge cross above it the summit, which is why it was easily identifiable from a distance. La Pania della Croce is the fourth highest peak in the Alps.

We go down the opposite side from where we went, with a rather straight path in the middle of a stone. We pass the turn off to the shelter Rossi (really cute) and we continue in a false floor to a small hill. Two points of the trail are equipped with chains to allow easier passage, nothing difficult.
Past the first hill we would expect that Walter had repeatedly described as a very straight and stinking lawn ... in fact the case. Luckily there is the fog so we do not see where this is a long downhill! The trail runs in a zig zag to this huge lawn really straight. In a moment that you open the fog we get to see a group of animals appear wild sheep, but are far off and run away immediately.

We stop near the mouth of Valli to reassemble the group that is scattered throughout the steep slope of this pratone.
From here a path, in a false floor, runs along the ridge until it reaches the foot of Mount Holed. The trail itself is unique, at times a bit more challenging because the terrain and sdruciolevole and rocky but overall it's a nice section of trail. It would be a nice balcony, shame about the fog, otherwise it would be very scenic. But as they say .. you can not have everything!

Monte Forato owes its name to the presence of a beautiful hole, which seen from a distance with a bit confusing fog. The hole is formed, topped by a huge arch. It is truly impressive and the mist that rises from the hole contributes to the charm of this particular place.

After eating our lunch we set off again. The trail passes still on the ridge and then walk away on a collar. From here the trail, a nice wide path and clay, continues in the thick of the forest.

The mirage of a beautiful fountain fresh makes us increase the pace. Indeed, the fresh water and its nice after all these hours of walking. We realize that it increased the pace when we do not see the rest of the group appear, even to someone in mind is that perhaps some have taken the wrong fork, but then, after about twenty minutes start to appear in the others.

Taken the path before us even an hour of travel. Once in Stazzema across the country, in a typical hot summer, and finally we reach our bus ... finally ...

Bus through the countries of the Versilia, places that reminds me of my summer holidays when I was a child. Every year we spent 2-3 weeks in camp in these places. The climate is already holiday and it seems so far away the loneliness of the shelter last night and it seems to me that I was a child, although the world has moved on, little has changed. There are no toilets along the road and people coming and going through his whole day on these sunny beaches, there is still the pine forests and there are still niches that are postcards, slippers and the usual things to the beach.

Overnight in a hostel which is near the beach and after we made a nice shower, waiting for the arrival time for dinner, Paola and I go to breathe a little 'sea air. Someone decided to make a bathroom.
For dinner we should not move it, we will have a nice dinner of fish directly in the restaurant of the hostel. I'm not a fan of clams and derivatives that do not appreciate that in particular, however, the dinner was nice.

The goal this morning is the ancient village of columns (523 m). Column is part of the town of Carrara and is located on the slopes of the Apuan Alps in what is known as the basin of Joy, one of the largest quarries that produce especially veined marble, and guilloche bardiglio. When we speak of columns are two things that come to mind: the bacon and the caves and we both know we will.

The origins of this village is around 40 BC, where a settlement was built to house the slaves who were employed in the quarries. The name derives from the Latin word for certain columna, that column was to point out the marble columns that were extracted from here to be sent to Rome to decorate homes and buildings, for others it could be the merger of two other terms Latin collis hill or the top or columen ie. Well ... some of Latin origin but with two different interpretations.

As in the past even today, the history of the village has always been characterized by the activity of the marble quarries. Marble is its use in the production of the famous fat. It is thought that the breeding of pigs have been introduced by the Lombards and the presence of the rich forests of chestnut has certainly facilitated the development.

To expect that there are two nature guides will accompany us to explore this area. The village has maintained its original, narrow cobbled streets lined with stone houses. All very impressive.

After passing through the village of Colonnata we leave behind us to take a short path that will lead us to a vantage point, the trail passes through a beautiful forest of chestnut trees, some trees are truly impressive! From the vantage point, the view extends to the sea, allows us to better see the area and its marble quarries. It only makes a lot of heat!

Back down to the village we find a nice lunch with cold meats and produce. The bacon, served with shavings of dark chocolate, is the main dish for lunch. The ancient tradition, that lard makes a unique and exceptional, wants the bacon is placed immediately after slaughter, to mature in tanks dug in the blocks of marble. Each layer of fat is carefully sprinkled with salt and spices. The fat remains in these tanks or basins for about six months. It is said that this particular type of preparation confers the unique properties and characteristics.

After lunch, accompanied by another guide, very bright and nice, we explore the fascinating world of hard and marble quarries. It is thought that the caves were already used during the early Copper Age inhabitants of these areas. The marble used to produce tools or decorative items. It was only in Roman times which began to develop the actual mining. The white marble of these areas was a good way to decorate and embellish the Roman patrician houses. With the barbarian invasions, the mining of marble and almost stops again with the spread of Christianity which required huge quantities of marble to adorn and decorate religious buildings that the extraction of marble shooting at full capacity.
Michelangelo, just to mention a famous, it was only one of the artists who employed this material in the creation of their works.
Even today, the extraction of marble continues, and although the working conditions for miners are not the same anymore than once is still a very tough job in the past has killed many people. Fortunately, the conditions are not the same, today's technology and progress allows the use of machines and means that there was a time, but despite this, there are some aspects of this world and this work that still maintain the hardness and the risk that this work entails. Most of the marble extracted today is exported or taken elsewhere for her work, is being investigated in a project to ensure that most of the product is extracted and worked in these areas led elsewhere. In short, the marble is a treasure that must manage these areas wisely and to make the best possible way.

We end our tour in front of a quarry. We still have time to buy in the small shop front, a few souvenirs and then resume our journey home.
And so it is these three days are about to end, this little journey is about to close. It was a good experience, a great trip in a beautiful place with so many nice people.