Venetian lands. Veneto, Italy

By Luca, Sabrina and Federico

 

For a more substantial trip to the Canaries, because the problems of labor, delayed two days because the weather, we leave for this short holiday discovering Venice and its neighboring lands.
Complice its proximity, it is certainly not the first time I put foot in this city universally known, but we have always done very superficial and this time we intend to visit as indeed it deserves. Already ten years ago we had planned something similar, but then the weather was relentless and we are forced to renounce ... This time, however, there was successful and, although not for tomorrow the weather forecast is not favorable, we decided to leave.
After leaving the office prepare everything as we go along and take the road at 21:30 at the edge of our camper ... From time immemorial not remember a round trip so short a quarter of an hour after the start we got into highway twenty-five minutes later we are in Bologna. Take the A13 motorway and 22:20 transiting close to Ferrara, and Sabrina the sleep and Federico keeps me company.
In Padua, around 23:00, confirming the predictions, it begins to rain, but we do not give importance to things and passed shortly after the highway barrier of Mestre, we approximate the lagoon city along the long, straight Ponte della Libertà, just to 23:53 we are placed in the camper parking Tronchetto of Venice, where we will spend every night of this short vacation.
There we go to bed and mentally review the lesson: Venice "district" is the equivalent of a district, the "field" is a square and the "street" is a street, but, above all, many ways in this strange city called "Rio" and instead of the pavement with a mare!

E 'insistently rained all night but when, shortly after 8:00, we wake up not longer sacrosanct, and armed with tourist will decide to leave for this first day of visits to Venice.
Federico especially given the very young age, it is curious to see the city streets that has the channels ... "the city that, as Venus, rises from the foam of the sea": in this way sometimes likes to call it.
Buy the salatissimo subscription that will allow us to travel without limits, for three days on public services of the lagoon and from the pier Tronchetto Sailing aboard our first boat, while all around us the landscape is incupito by drabness that characterizes morning ... It is not just the highest expression of but we will start with visits degl'interni.
Climbed back up the Giudecca Canal landings on the Riva degli Schiavoni, scenic walk which suggests among other things the famous Hotel Danieli, and approximate to Piazza San Marco, we reach the famous Palazzo Ducale to the eastern side of which comes off the curious Bridge of Sighs visible dall'attiguo Ponte della Paglia (so named because here was discharged straw intended to prisons and to the teams of the Palazzo Ducale).
Some employees are mounting the pedestrian walkways, obviously it is expected high water, but with the hope that the best time of the entry cross symbol of the Republic of Venice, once home of the highest magistrates of the Venetian Republic, the residence of the Doges and the highest expression of Venetian Gothic ... Palazzo Ducale was founded as a castle in the ninth century, but underwent radical changes with time, until it assumed its current appearance around the middle of the fifteenth century.
We observe the beautiful inner courtyard: a place that develops between the high walls of the palace, which, on the north-west by the monumental scale of the Giants, which dominate the summit, imposing statues of Neptune and Mars. Then go up the so-called Scala d'Oro, and visited the interesting ducal apartment situated on the first floor, landed on the second level in which they hosted the meeting of those who were the highest magistrates of the state: the Signoria, the Senate, the Council of Ten and Three Inquisitors. In particular, splendor, stands the Hall of the College (where sat the Signoria), with wonderful paintings by Veronese and Tintoretto.
Traveled the old armories, rich with large pieces of historical interest in that particular whet the curiosity of the small, descend again on the first floor, and crossed the Bridge of Sighs, we will venture over the channel, nell'intricato maze of old prisons .. . It seems even in the dim light that envelops everything, to hear the clink of chains and clasps the nut behind the prisoners, whose "Sighs", in the case of the death sentence, gave the name to its bridge, which was inevitably crossed in days of operation capital. We, too, in the end, cross the bridge in the same direction, but only to return to the Doge's Palace and visit the biggest sale of all the magnificent Hall of the Greater Council (52.7 meters long and 24.65 wide and very height of 11.50) with, at the back of the gallery where sat the Doge, the incredible painting of Paradise (24.65 x7, 45 meters!) by Jacopo Tintoretto, and beside the magnificent Hall of Poll.
With his eyes still full of wonder we leave when the Palazzo Ducale is already past noon for a while ', while the high water, in fact, has partially flooded Piazza San Marco (not to be better at home where, we learn, it's raining non-stop the morning).
Climb aboard a boat and go down a few stops away near the Arsenale, where the Naval Historical Museum, but closed its doors at 13:00 this afternoon and not reopen ... Sunday (ie tomorrow), naturally celebrates and we should give it up for Monday as we have other programs, is one of the many, small, Italian ignominies, even if things in general, are significantly improved in recent years.
Lunch with our sandwiches sitting on a bench along the Rio dell'Arsenale, while a nice little wind bora we whip your face and then immediately c'incamminiamo along the canal and arrived in minutes, in front of the scenic port what was, for centuries, the magnificent complex of building sites, factories and warehouses where Venetian fleets were coming out, the basis of economic power, political and military of the Republic.
The Arsenal, which still occupies about 46 hectares, is a great historical monument, but owned by the Italian Navy, is not open and we must be satisfied to see only the outside, and a small exhibition of old boats in an adjacent shed, which although interesting has enabled us, above all, to repair for a while 'from the cold wind this afternoon in autumn.
Left us behind the Arsenal we will venture among the lesser known streets and canals of the district of Castello, with captivating views, and we will come for the Church of St. Francesco della Vigna, the magnificent facade erected in the sixteenth century, designed by Andrea Palladio.
Walking quietly, while some falls harmless drops of rain, we come even to the imposing Basilica of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, which was built by the Dominicans in 1246 and 1430, is one of the most magnificent examples of Venetian Gothic architecture and the second half of the fifteenth century was the seat of the solemn funeral of the Doges, in fact the inside of inordinate proportions ( 100 meters long and 32 high), is divided into three naves and hosts numerous funerary monuments of great artistic value.
The church is located on the homonymous field and its huge facade contrasts beautifully cooked, in the corner, with the marble face of the Renaissance Ex Scuola Grande di S. Mark palace once home to the Brotherhood, which today is home to the Civil Hospital of Venice.
There we briefly glimpse the sublime architecture while, hear, hear, the solar disc is tentatively head between the thick blanket of clouds, and then c'incamminiamo, bypassing the typical channels that have made famous the Serenissima, lined the small Church of St. Maria dei Miracoli, one of the first and most successful example of Venetian Renaissance architecture, which appears close between the buildings that surround it, like a casket set with precious marble.
Going along narrow streets, finally we return to Piazza S. Marco, a large area that faces the homonymous basilica square par excellence, known universally undisputed symbol of the city of Venice ... Needless to say it is beautiful, but not even snap a picture, waiting for the sun set over the next few days.
Federico enjoys some 'a witch-pigeons, which have made the place a little' their little kingdom, then, although they are just 17:00, tired and far from galvanized by constantly gray sky, we sadly returned to camper, and hopeful for the future, we locked the warmth inside, in the company of the TV, to pass the evening, recalling the incredible wealth of Venice: a city unique in the world!

PARTE PRIMA

Everything as expected: the clouds are completely gone (after one week, without respite, the rain and gray skies) ... Today a magnificent sun shines and a different spirit we enter into this second day of visits, although all carry a little 'wearing the signs of the cold yesterday.
By vaporetto pass beside giant cruise ships and met in the Giudecca Canal, which runs along the right of the same name and elongated island, descend on the left side of the stop Zattere, where to begin our walk through the historic center of Venice.
Here once landed the rafts used to transport timber and it is no coincidence that around the seventeenth century is Squero S. Trovaso, the oldest shipyard production gondole among the few still active in the city. We observe the so-called foundation Dwarfs, along the channel that bears his name, and then comes the much more well known, universally known fact, the Grand Canal.
Override the most famous waterway on the planet on the Ponte dell'Accademia, wooden structure built as a temporary (?) In 1934 to replace the previous one (in iron), now dilapidated, one of three on the Grand Canal (the other Fortunately, there are two stone and final!).
Left the district of Dorsoduro and landed in the S. Marco, in a short reach in the vast Campo S. Stefano, surrounded by elegant buildings, the center of which stands a huge bronze head, the work of contemporary artist who knows what, in which you adventure now, intrigued, Federico, and dominated on the north side after the church, one of the most interesting religious Gothic of the city.
Campo S. Stephen, following narrow streets, we return on the banks of the Grand Canal near the ferry "Garzoni" along the winding route of the canal for excellence, there are several points at which they operate some gondole, dimensionally larger than the normal function of pedestrian ferry, so, with just 50 cents a head we give a brief excursion on the river most striking and famous the world, reaching the shores of dirimpettaia sestiere S. Polo.
Back again on the banks of departure so we gain the nearby Campo S. Rocco, on this street are the white facade of the church of the Great and the School, also of St. Rocco. This building, erected between 1516 and 1560, home at the time of the school on their devotion to St. Rocco, has a whole wonderful cycle of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, who in the Sala Maggiore stunning, situated on the first floor, reached the highest artistic expression.
Still fascinated by the beauty of the paintings and the richness of the decorations let the School of St. Rocco and we move in close and majestic Church of St. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.
Of the building, erected in the thirteenth century by the Franciscan Friars Minor (the Frari) is not null and the current building, built over a century starting in 1340, brings together memories and glories of five hundred years of history Serenissima, summarizing, with the Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, given yesterday, the Pantheon of the glories of the Republic.
Fortunately it is just finishing the Sunday mass and we can access within and divided into three naves by massive columns, it is marked by a long series of altars and funerary monuments, among which stand out those of famous artists such as Titian and Antonio Canova ( a white pyramid built on a design by the disciples of the same master).
Returned to take our road trip and passed in front of Palazzo Centani, where on 26 February 1707 began Carlo Goldoni (commediografo famous), we arrive first at Campo S. Pole, and then passed on the Ponte delle Tette curious (so named because from the windows of the houses in front of the prostitutes solevano show the breast in order to attract customers), we arrive in the small and characteristic Campo S. Boldo.
Once, in practice, the visit to this part of the city go back on the Grand Canal in front of the famous Ca 'd'Oro, a building rich and elegant in Venice, built in Gothic style at the beginning of the fifteenth century and characterized by a 'elaborate openwork marble facade and marble, which was once adorned with gilding widespread ... from which derived its name.
We stop for lunch, close to the so-called old factories along the waterway for excellence of the Serenissima, kissed by the sun, which warms up beautifully today, and pampered by the most ideal weather conditions that may be desired, idle nicely perhaps more than due, but also loads of new energy, we resume the route.

PARTE SECONDA

Turning to the nearby Campo S. James, where is the statue of Gobbo di Rialto (which supports the scale for the column of Proclamation, from which the sentences were read and reported the laws), we come in sight of the most famous bridge in Venice, the Rialto Bridge, which until the was the only point of connection between the two parts of the city.
The current building, which has a clearance of 28 meters and a height of 7.50, has three walking trails made between two rows of shops and was built to replace earlier structures, between 1588 and 1591 .. . Needless to say, its shape, stagliate on the Grand Canal and crossed by a constant parade of gondolas, is one of the most sublime and captivating views of this unique city.
E 'Sunday in the area and visitors abound (I dare not think how it can be worth a bridge or in the spring!), We will again abandon the usual tourist routes, Adventure among narrow streets to reach the elusive Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo hidden between the meanders of the district of S. Mark and characterized by beautiful Renaissance exterior staircase spiral (Bovolo in Venice).
Tired for the thousands of steps we rincanaliamo the swarm of people and which returned to Piazza S. Mark inimitable quadrilateral bounded by the Basilica of St. Marco and the palaces of the Procuratie, in addition to the Clock Tower (currently under renovation) and the imposing size of the Campanile of S. Marco ... Today the place, bathed by the sun, is a magnificent and we stop for a while 'to enjoy the spectacle, while Richard plays with pigeons gl'immancabili (just a handful of grain to be literally turkish assault).
The Campanile of S. Mark is a symbol of Venice. Collapsed dramatically in 1902 was rebuilt as it was and where he had over ten years and with its one hundred meters is the highest building in the city ... The view from up there must not be misunderstood and we do not want to miss, so go up in the company of Frederick, and Sabrina, now tired, we are at the base, and then repent because the climb is made ... in lift.
The scene at 360 degrees on the Serenissima is beautiful and for a short period of time we have heard gentlemen, or Doges, of Laguna, but then come back to reality, with their feet firmly on the ground, and yet left out the church (there is a long queue to enter and come back tomorrow morning), a photo shoot with the right light even to the sublime Palazzo Ducale and then climb on the boat to go down shortly after, the island of St. dirimpettaia Giorgio Maggiore.
The site, unlike the nearby Giudecca, which evolved only in the sixteenth century, already in the ninth century, housed a religious and cultural center offers a unique role of political representation, but it was at the turn of the sixteenth and the seventeenth century and elevated appearance, when it was built, designed by Andrea Palladio, the current white church that characterizes dedicated precisely to St. George ... We stop for a while 'even the exceptional panorama before us, beyond the geometric designs of the pavement of the field and the Giudecca Canal, in the warm light of late afternoon, building sweeps sull'incomparabile of San Marco, then go up on the first boat and we have to deal with calmly, the way back.
We make one more stop, near the Stazione Marittima, to visit the interiors of gl'interessanti S. Sebastian, which houses the remains of Paul Veronese, but the church does to say, has closed nearly an hour ago, at 17:00, and we must give it up ... Let us return then to float towards the Tronchetto, where we get pretty tired after the endless walk today.
E 'was an exceptional day in many ways and the pleasant weather invite us to die in the evening ... Regained as the historic center of Venice to the discovery of the night: we frankly expected a little more, but certainly are beautiful, enlightened, Piazza S. Marco and the Grand Canal with its beautiful Church of S. Maria della Salute.
Return to base after more than two hours, a little 'cold, but also met the experience, exhausted and there we go to sleep, in view of the third and last day to pass into the lagoon.

Even this morning we reach the Piazza S. waterbus Mark, while the sky thanks to God is clear and weather conditions optimum ... Only blows from the north-east a troublesome cold wind, which we hope will place in the central hours of the day.
There is still missing from that visit the basilica, founded in 829 to receive the remains dell'evangelista S. Marco (stolen from Alexandria, Egypt) is the result of centuries of architectural changes and influences ... unfounded and has always been the main church of the city and the place where the Doges were consecrated, and the focus of public and religious life of the Serenissima.
Although it is a Monday every autumn we put ourselves in a row, among people of all nationalities to enter the doors of the cathedral of Venice, and so we have more time to scrutinize its stunning facade, showing a predominantly horizontal development, is built around two levels of five arches whose caps are richly decorated with precious mosaics.
Passing through the first door we enter into the (or narthex), which precedes the entrance to the true religion, then go up the long stairway to the plane un'irta tunnel, which is placed in the Museum of S. Marco that hosts, among interesting glimpses of the interior of the basilica, precious art objects, in addition to the original Quadriglia S. Marco, exposed up to 1974 on the terrace overlooking the square, which briefly c'intratteniamo never pay inequality landscape around us.
Back on the ground floor we visit the sumptuous interior that, prepared a Greek cross and divided into three naves, surprised by the great and the extraordinary play of volumes defined by domes and arches completely covered with precious mosaics golden background, the overall development is 4240 square meters. We then astounding in the face of so-called Pala d'Oro, a stunning masterpiece of Byzantine and Venetian goldsmith, located behind the high altar: according to an inventory at the end of the eighteenth century altarpiece in 1300 are set pearls, 400 garnets, 300 sapphires, 300 emeralds, 90 amethysts, 75 Balasch, 15 rubies, topazes 4, 2 and came more than 80 glazes ... something that would fade even Lupine Arsen ... and personally this is not the first time I've seen the church, but I leave absolutely amazed!
Let ecstatic Piazza S. Mark, with the countless wonders that surround it, and Heading in the boat with all the Grand Canal, perhaps the ancient river bed of a river (3800 meters long and wide from 30 to 70) and certainly the place where the integration between the city and the water of the lagoon is the most complete ... Some, perhaps rightly, they love to call the most beautiful in the world, and how it wrongly?
The most magnificent palaces of Venice flowing one after another before our eyes at the edge of the craft, which carries mutters between the placid waves: Palazzo Contarini, Palazzo Grassi, Ca 'Rezzonico, Ca' Foscari, Ca 'd' Oro, Ca 'Pesaro and Palazzo Vendramin (home of the Casino Municipale). Brings us in the district of Cannareggio and then descend to take a walk in the most northern of the city, the only one that now we lacked to complete the tour of Venice.
Exceeded the original Guglie Bridge, named for the four obelisks that characterize it, we enter in the Ghetto (a little disappointment from an architectural point of view): the place where they lived for nearly three centuries the Jews of Venice. The curiosity is that in the vicinity at the time, there was a cannon foundry in which he conducted the operations of "ghetto" or "cast" (cast metal), hence the name later adopted universally to identify the Areas of imprisonment of the Jews.
Strolling along the canals of the district spend a few minutes of attention to the beautiful Church of Our Lady dell'Orto, supported from a bulbous bell and, gl'interni neglected because it is paid and there seems excessive, we come to the so-called Fondamenta Nuove from where to sail discovery of the surroundings of Venice.
Climb on the boat line and landed on the lagoon dirimpettaia town of Murano, inhabited settlement of six thousand souls away little more than a kilometer from Venice, synonymous with glass, which owes its fortune to a decree that in 1291 the Government of the Republic ordered to move all the glass, dangerous sources of fire in the city.
Landed at Punta della Colonna lunch and then we are dedicated to visiting the place: along the Rio dei Glaziers, too commercially exploited, and then we see, at a foundry, with Federico enchanted long before the skill of the master glassmakers.
Returned to fresh air passing through the Canal Grande di Murano Vivarini on deck, the only structure to do so, and as we reach the shore in view of the beautiful apse of the cathedral dedicated to Sts. Maria and Donato. The building, probably founded in the seventh century and rebuilt in the twelfth, is one of the most significant examples of architecture in the Byzantine-Venetian lagoon and would be interesting but also gl'interni (living in Italy) is closed and only reopened at 16:00 ... Perhaps the pastor should do pennichella afternoon.
On completion of the exploration, all things are not exciting, Murano boat with the inevitable push us further away from Venice, and after forty minutes by boat to reach Burano and thence, in a quarter of an hour at Torcello.
Founded before the Venice, in the fifth century, Torcello was a major urban center, but that was phased out after the Mille impaludamento causes of this part of the lagoon ... and that ancient city, still, miraculously still standing the monumental center.
Landed in a bucolic landscape, and walk along the Canal de Borgognoni (once an important waterway), we arrive at a grassy clearing surrounded by historical buildings forming the square of a city that no longer exists. They are the religious buildings to stand out more than others: the Church of St. Fosca but particularly the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption, dating from the seventh century and enriched inside by extraordinary mosaics (on all the outstanding Rating Universal, which covers the entire counter).
Before leaving the place, with Frederick, do well to climb the bell tower and observed for a while 'view on the lagoon surrounding it back to earth, albeit slightly rintronati the big bell, in conjunction with our visit, he decided to play with the chimes of 17:00.
The way to Burano, a small fishing settlement in the heart of the lagoon, is short, so there is still time for a quick tour: the country is carinissimo and give us a pleasant walk along the narrow canals lined by houses painted in bright colors. .. seems to be in a fairy-tale village and the atmosphere is extremely accommodating, sin only now that we are the shadows lengthened and the day is drawing irretrievably after ... Then take the long way back and lined the Fondamenta Nuove in the warm light of sunset we arrived exhausted, but happy, the parking Tronchetto around 19:00 ... orsù, my prodi, the lagoon is now conquered ... and proud we collect inside the camper to take the deserved rest ...

E 'on the last day of this short holiday and we wake up, yet at the Tronchetto, with the sun spiteful this morning, it is rintanato behind a fog light of heaven ... We pay the parking salatissimo (117 euros for three days and a half!) And we leave Venice.
Before you go home but we want to visit an area the immediate hinterland closely correlated with the Venetian Republic: the so-called Riviera del Brenta. Here the noble Venetians, between the'500 and'700 were used to build their luxurious homes so as to show that secondary water (the Naviglio di Brenta) as a kind of natural continuation of the Grand Canal.
Of the ancient glories are only a few tracks, scattered here and there along the banks, and one of the most significant is situated almost at the mouth of the funnel in the lagoon: the case of Villa Foscari, also known as "La Malcontenta".
The residence, built to designs by Andrea Palladio around 1555, owes its name to a legend that would have her "exile" of a woman as a result of marital infidelity and now privately owned, you can visit only in the morning and two days a week on Saturdays and watch the event, on Tuesday. So the camper parked nearby and we are walking towards the entrance.
Passed through the gate and enter the gardens now open to our eyes the lovely and proportionate prospectus characterized, on the roof, four fireplaces cylindrical sophisticated ... The building is not extensive but the geometry imposed dall'insigne the designer off magnificently, illumined by a timid ray of sun in the green surroundings.
Also observed gl'interni, once richly frescoed, we return on our steps and take the route, with numerous villas, mostly private and not visited, but often melancholic decadent. The only way to stop the Villa could offer Seriman, state-owned, but there are others as well as tourists interested in visiting us and also appears rather untidy, so flying and continue to follow the path that unravels along the canal .
Mira and Dolo past and arrive at the outskirts of town Stra, where the sumptuous Villa Pisani, erected in the eighteenth century to the family of the Doge Alvise Pisani ... In the centuries to follow, after the fall of Venice, the most representative of the Riviera del Brenta passed hands several times: from Napoleon Bonaparte to the viceroy of Italy Eugenio Beauharnais, by the Savoy of Austria (he was also the scene ' meeting between Mussolini and Hitler) and now is owned by the state.
It 'almost noon, and unfortunately not a nice sun shines, so we decide to plan ahead for lunch with the hope that the sky will open ... Excellent choice because, in just over an hour, the clouds dissolve and the destiny gives us on a silver platter the last visit of this trip.
Gain walk the monumental facade, which sets the Brenta, and crossed the magnificent entrance to the villa, we explore first of all the interiors, rather bare of furniture but often richly frescoed ... Among the many environments stands out on the first floor, the majestic ballroom, embellished by the magnificent ceiling painted by Tiepolo Gianbattista.
Back on the ground floor we are dedicated to the park, setting the eighteenth century, characterized by a large tank at the bottom of the buildings which stand out the stables ... The whole complex is well kept and cared for, pity only that the famous maze, consisting of paths of high hedges, is not accessible in this season, to the great disappointment of Frederick, who already foretaste of scorazzarvi inside.
Spend a couple of hours walk to Villa Pisani and then, satisfied, they leave ready to face the return journey home.
At 15:25 we leave the car park on the banks of the Brenta and twenty minutes later we enter into a motorway in Padova. Fila everything smooth and crossed the Po passing close to Ferrara, then at around 17:00, we arrive in Bologna. Take the A14, from which shortly after they leave because we have an accident. Return to Imola, and after be left behind Faenza, at 18:05 we are at Forlì. Complete all operations camper-service and 18:35 to finish in front of the gate house of this brief but intense holiday.
What about Venice and its surroundings, a place unique in the world, constantly poised between land and sea, a place that until now, perhaps because its relative proximity, had always neglected, visiting too superficial and that instead there delighted with its infinite shades from Piazza S. Marco also arriving on the mainland, almost on the outskirts of Padova, extolling the glories of the Serenissima, unrepeatable expression of civilization and yet another miracle Italian.