A trekking where the sun does not pass away

Our nature is essentially nomadic. We are nomads and nomads go on foot and on horseback, because going slowly identifies with the land. Today we don't care about everything. The cars, new means of transport we are used to, permit us to grasp things only to surface and contribute to that lack of depth. The spirit of trekking is instead to proceed slowly to grasp the spirit of mountains, forests, countries, men. We have no more patience to wait something, we forgot how to listen, we're no more used to observe carefully what surrounds us. Although this is precisely the key to understand and appreciate our world. Going out to walk is no monotonous or boring, it is just coming into harmony with nature and yourselvf. Every day, in every hour the natural scenery changes and there is always a nice surprise to expect.

The Kungsleden, path of kings, is the most famous trekking path through Swedish Lapland. With a development of about 440 kms through four national parks: Abisko, Stora Sjöfallet, Sarek and Pieljekaise. Starting point of our trek: Abisko. Point of arrival: Nikkaluokta. Length: 100 kms. Number of days: 6. Hours of journey: 27. Parks crossed: Abisko National Park and Stora Sjöfallet. Type of accommodation: tent. Cuisine: camping gas or plates in shelters. The paths are well plotted and equipped with three types of report: poles bearing the cross of St. Andrew painted in red, usually characterize the traits viable with cross-country skiing or snowmobile; omit from stone and a red mark. The path develops largely without suffering excessive gradients and, although across wetlands, has no particular difficulty, since even in these cases, the walk is often aided by the existence of wooden walkways. Some attention should be instead devoted to the overcome of the many streams along the route which, when they are not crossed by spectacular bridges, have always to be waded against the tide and with the help of telescopic poles. The highest point is the step of Tjäktja (1.150m). The itinerary is gratifying for the spectacular landscape but also for some challenging points since we are forced to proceed slowly in a continuous up and down along the banks of rivers or lakes. Along the route the water supply is absolutely not problematic. The trekkers have at their disposal guarded refuges with bunk beds, kitchen room with tables, benches and plate gas, sometimes a grocery store, toilet (wooden structure with ecological pit), baskets to leave the waste. These however are very expensive. Open access campings, small cottages that can comfortably accommodate 4 persons on wooden tables. The furniture is harsh, but essential, heating with wood stove, wood, toilet, waste basket door and square for the fire nearby. In some points of the path there are areas suitable to pass night in tents. The climate is the biggest surprise. You can find any weather condition. In the north the weather is variable and suggests to bring heavy clothes and autumn rain jackets. If there is the sun it's better to wear a T-shirt, because itis hot and the natural spectacle is amazing. If it is cloudy and it does not rain, can be equally hot, but certainly the environment completely loses its color. During our trip we met all. In Norway there's always nice weather with the sun, infact the first day never rained. Temperatures during first day: from 14 to.... 22 ° C. In Sweden time varies widely, it has always rained during the same night and for a whole next day. Temperatures of the next day from 10 to... 15 ° C. The equipment recommended for tackling this trip is: tent (waterproof), feather sleeping bag, mattress, camping gas, dish, glass, cutlery, pot, bottle, cover backpack or cape, gaiters (to protect from the mud), telescopic poles. The stack front is not necessary, because there is always light. Indispensable waterproof clothing (possibly in Gore-Tex) and everything required for the replacement of clothing in case of rain. Shirt or T-shirt and long pants to protect ourselves from mosquitoes, T-shirts or T-shirts in capilene, batteries, average jacket in Gore-Tex, over trousers, mountain boots made in Gore-Tex (already tested) to solve the problem of moist undergrowth and swamp areas. however it is possible to buy on the spot the nice hat with mosquito net, typical of these regions.

 

Tromso - Lofoten Islands

After woke up to the noise of vacuum used by service women, I manage myself in the dining room to enjoy a substantial buffet breakfast (65 NOK), that we literally clean up.... with gratest amazement of the waiter! We pass the entire day browsing the coast on the legendary postal ship. from the extreme north of Kirkenes to Bergen, a coastal vessel for over a century connected the thousand of settlements of the infinite coast of Norway. A route between fjords, islands, moving landscapes of loneliness and signs of civilization carried by merchants, fishermen and sailors. Unfortunately, the weather is not beautiful, but the brightness of the landscape is spectacular. Sometime we read, sleep, and then all together plan the next day with Patti (it is the cruiser life...). Towards the late afternoon, landscape is much more interesting through steep cliffs, and the magnificent Trollsfjord. Now it's all an inside and outside the booths to make photos (along with Fabio and Patrizia). The cities where we do not stop are nothing special apart from a little houses with colorful features (and vessels of course...). We arrive at 18:30 in Svolvear and start to walk towards our campsite which is 3 km away.. Once arrived we palce in two comfortable bungalows. Marco discovers there is no longer the tent that he placed outside the backpack (it may have been stolen by shipmen as he supposes?!?). Consequently him and Fabio will be housed in tents. We have rice with porcini mushrooms, bread and cheese for dinner. Gigi tries to turn the chimney on, but we all risk to suffocate. I go to bed and remain kindly surprised by the fact that all night sky does not become completely dark.

Lofoten Islands

I make a quick shower, breakfast and then all together we approach the city. Given that we'll remain in the Lofoten islands only for a day, we decide to rent vehicles to visit them. While we wait Patti, which is renting the car, I do a 2nd breakfast in a closely pastry, where I can taste the "Norwegian national sweet", as baptized by me and Pierangela (a normal pastry filled with cream). We find a small bus with 14 seats and a Mazda. We begin the journey heading south towards the city with the name shorter than the world Å. The day is very beautiful, with a splendid sun. Frankly this place alone deserves a 14 days vacation. "Caribbean" beaches with clear water, unusual bridges connecting the islands, villages with the typical fishermen red houses and graceful vessels. Here everyone lives of cod fishing, done during the spring, which we are the main customers of. Once at Å we visit the museum of stockfish (interesting) where our guide, who speaks good English, tells us about the legend of "King Cod". He is nice to me and also a "great cunning" ...
After we visit the usual reconstruction of a fishing village. Then we eat what we carried with us: bread, cheese, cold cuts, yogurt (including the more typical white). In mid-afternoon we start to return to base. Along the route we stop in a most interesting village than the previous; climbed upon a hill, we shot some photos (including cods drying at the sun) and look at the landscape. Later we will stop again on a beautiful beach, at dusk, where someone, if desired, should immerse their feet in cold water (the brave ones). A group photo and then we start turning towards the very suggestive village of Nussfjord (named best village in Norway). We finished a bit tired, so we cook some pasta to eat all together.

Abisko Turiststation - Free area at the end of park (17 km - 4.30h)

The night passed quietly (the tent is fixed well) even if I woke up several times: it rains and the air is moisty. I have a good shower because I do not know when I will have the next opportunity to make it. We weigh the backpacks and see they are, on average, 15-17 kgs. With a Max. tip of 23 kgs (Andrea with his food). They will get lighter during the trek. Departure at 8:00 under a boring rain. After about 500m before we reach the wooden arch marking the entrance of the path we all do the ritual group photo. The path is easy and goes along the right bank of the river Abiskojåkka getting deeply inside a forest of birches. Crossing the forest, that I find monotonous, I see everywhere mushrooms and ferns appearing. Sometimes I change clothes depending on whether it rains or not. After 1h of walk through a suspension bridge I just find a clearing with a small bivouac open fireplace equipped. There are swamp areas, where, however, were included comfortable wooden walkways. Mosquitoes! I cover myself with Autan that seems to work. We pass then through a second suspension bridge holding to steel cables. After 2h of walk we arrive at the Abiskojávri lake. We stop for about half an hour on a soft mattress of mosses and lichens and eat some edible red raspberries. I start to walk again with Massimo, Andrew and Patti and after passing the lined-along-lake path for about 1,30h I come to the Abiskojaure refuge (altitude 490mts), even if others have gone before us for sometime. However we must not race, so I take my time to rest and study the correct angles to make beautiful pictures! We have lunch under hot sun and we sleep lying down on the lawn. We start again at 14:30 to find an area where we can set the field. We walk for another 3 miles and at the end of the Abisko park we find a clearing to place tents (reported by the previos group chief, which always gave me good suggestions: thank you Maria Rosa Bacci Conti). I put the tent in the woods, downwind, near the river even if there are more mosquitoes. I notice that the whole area is invaded by these bloody animals and their invasion can't be stopped. I decide to walk together with the others (to avoid mosquitoes); after crossing a bridge I arrive in an open valley where, on the right, there is Kieron bivouac (vertical drop: 200 meters). The most valiant: Anna, Claudia, Bruno, Pierangela, Gigi, Andrew and Marita, climb Mount Gárddenvárri. Once returned to the field I prepare rice with mushrooms with my new cooker (works well!!!). After dinner we light the fire and place in circle joking and laughing and talking until 21:15. Then physically tired and stressed by mosquitoes we go to sleep.

Free area at the end of park - Alesjaure Refuge (18 kms - 5h)

The night was well spent even if it rained. After breakfast we start at 8:00. The sky is covered by gray clouds. The landscape changes as I advance. I meet lakes, flowers, glaciers. Way uphill for about 2h I arrive on a broad plateau dotted by small lakes, height 800mts. I shot many photos with Patti that walks before me. At some point we divert right to see a Lapp settlement used to breed reindeers, that time empty (wrong period). The surrounding landscape is charming. The wind blows regularly. The path goes up and down a bit before reaching some little lakes and then four big lakes in sequence: Ahpparijávri, Miesakjávri, Rådujávri, Alisjávri. After another hour of walk we find a new bivouac. In the last part of the walk I'm a little tired: I have to stop often. The refuge seems never to arrive even if I can see it at the horizon. After other 2 hours of walk we finally come to the refuge of Alesjaure (height 775mts). Patrizia kindly waited for me while during stopping I left backpack down from the shoulders to eat something. Obviously others arrived already. The landscape below us is very beautiful: a spectacular lake with some glaciers in the background. I can not imagine all this landscape in winter when covered by a thick blanket of snow. The refuge is well equipped. We fix tents near the lake (bloody hell, there are so many mosquitoes!). Later we decide to make an excursion to the Lapp camp located on the opposite shore of the lake. While we walk we can see a beautiful rainbow (I've seen not so many rainbows in my life...). Half an hour of road, but unfortunately camp is uninhabited. It rains more insistently now, and we must run back quickly after making few photos (nothing interesting). When we return to the refuge we ask clarifications on why all settlements are uninhabited. They explained me that the village is inhabited only during June-July months, when the Lapps gather reindeer. Now true Lapps who live in these places in winter are really rare. They even discharged themselves in the cities. There we washed in the lake (beard operations included), and spend a nice evening in the shelter eating mashed wurstel and "synthetic" puree! Patti is not convinced to affect the common cash with this expenditure, but this evening is important to maintain high the morale of the group. Outside rains too much! Let's go to sleep (the tent incredibly keeps waterproof).

Refuge Alesjaure - Tjäktja Refuge (13 km - 3.3h)

I wake up early to satisfy my needs (1st time in these days) and I have to move very quickly to escape the attacks of mosquitoes. The time is variable with low clouds, at 5:00am rain stopped. We start at 9:00. The trail consists of gravel steps on a continuous up and down-hill path, through a glacial valley with beautiful lakes and trip often on wooden walkways (gaiters are very useful to protect trousers from mud). Here I got also the first reindeer in sight... finally! Through a suspension bridge and after 3 hours of walk we encounter a bivouac on the left, closed with a chain. The Tjäktja refuge (height 1.000mt) can be seen in distance. To take some pictures of waterfalls I accidentally enter the stream (full of water) and finish with my feet inside (compliments to boots which does not permit water to enter). While we plant tents under beautiful sun, suddenly comes out rainbow over the valley (bad weather will return???). I take this opportunity to wash myself in a torrent. Unfortunately, shortly after starts to rain again. Unfortunately water begins to filter in the tent. After having dinner in the common kitchen inside refuge (rice and cheese) we are forced to go outside, back in the rain. Only two people will sleep inside. I'm hosted by Bruno and Andrea, but "diving into" I notice that inside tent is flooded... So I divert to Claudio and Marco's tent (I am a little wet now). It rained all night long, so it was utterly better to sleep in a dry place.

Tjäktja Refuge - Kuoperjåkka Bivouac (18 km - 4,3h)

I wake up at 7:00am. We have a good breakfast in the refuge and then dismantle the camp. The time is variable with low clouds, rain stopped at 5:00am (Temp. = 10 ° C). We start at 8:00 to leave Tjäktja. We pass through a land covered with mosses and lichens, and later through a stone field. After about 1h of walk we arrive to the mythical step placed at 1150 meters. At the top there is a small snow field, and fortunately we find a bivouac where we can rest a moment. Unfortunately starts to rain again. The camp has 4 beds with a small wood stove. We stop for about 1h, in the hope that rain will stop. Nothing to do, I put the Gore-Tex jacket on, trousers and K-Way. We start again under a strong shower. From this point the trail drops significantly for about 300 metres, then continues to raise an fall on wooden bridges and through a long stone field. An umbrella is offered to me, but I can continue without it at all. The area is a swamp and we must also wade several watercourses. It rains heavily and I have a strong feeling of damp (although the jacket keeps me dry). We hear a dull roar and see a landslide 1 km away. From under the hood I see a big herd of reindeer on the right but it's a little difficult to me to take photos in the rain. We proceed very well even if queued (more rain, less rain...). Yet I see a group of reindeers (50-60 approx.) on the other side of the river. I also fall down to the wet stone ground and do the "turtle" with the legs, but fortunately I didn't hurt myself. I can see the first stage of a refuge. Within the common kitchen and together with the others, we light the stove in order to dry our clothes and shoes. Fortunately, I got only cotton trousers wet because of sweat. Feet and the rest of the body are dry. Congratulations to Aesse and St. Mark companies. Someone finds pasta and can not resist the temptation of a good spaghetti dish. Although the weather is bad, it must be said that morale is high. Apart from Andrew who is repenting to have chosen to do a trek. As usual we make a brief visit to the "typical" refuge latrines, decorated with photos and dried flowers. After a couple of hours we start again under a dense rain. I walk for about 7 kms and finally arrive at the Kuoperjåkka England bivouac, 750 mts; 1,3 hours of walk. Finally rain stops. Someone simply placed field on a dry meadow near the river. The bivouac is welcoming and after a deep cleaning action, I decide with other six companions (Marita, Pierangela, Silvia, Massimo, Marco and Andrea) to sleep inside. We light the stove (great Gigi, expert cutter of wood...) and dry our clothes. We also cook soups and various other creams together. All 16 are sitting here (apart from the Sardinian...) and we spent a pleasant evening. I even told some jokes. It's incredible that in situations of hardship, the group knits much more and morale strengts up. This was the best evening of the entire trek. Before sleeping I try to wash myself into the stream but accidentally I slide on a stone. Unfortunately I bruised my arm. So, after this little unconvenient, my arm is being treaten by Patti before my return to bivouac, however the evening goes on and the show continues... We finally go to bed at 0:30 (small hours...) after having sung Battisti, Guccini, De Gregori, Venditti, etc.. I sleep well even if it is hot: I lie close to the stove in short sleeves. Three people snore like bears and lynxes (Marita, Pierangela and Massimo from Turin). About people sleeping outside in tents.. into the rain, instead, is very cold (I did not envy them...).

Kuoperjåkka Bivouac - Kebnekaise Refuge (16 kms - 6h)

In the morning Bruno enters soon in bivouac saying that it rains, temperature is not cold, and that he saw a reindeer very closely, but I'm not so much interested (Bruno is always set on the meteorology and temperature). Then Gigi enters with another symbolic phrase: "low clouds, changeable weather, almost good weather ...". And also: "Apart from cold, rain, humidity all is good". After a good breakfast, I shave into stream (Pierangela is also washing herself there, what a body!!!). We restart after having cleaned the bivouac: I am sorry, I was fond of this place! I walk quietly with Patrizia, occasionally we stop to take some photos. It's useless to arrive early to the refuge withut knowing what to do then. Here there is no need of clock. The passage of time is marked only by the sun and physiological needs. After about 3 kms we reach the junction for the Singi refuge; 45 minutes of walk, 780mts high. Here we divert left through a long fence for reindeers. The trail climbs gently for 200mts. After 45 minutes we are at an altitude of 980 meters. The day definitely changes to fine, with the exit of a warm sun, albeit with a strong wind. From this point the road begins to descend until we reach a magnificent glacial valley full of marshes and lakes, surrounded by spectacular mountains with glaciers on top, that breed beautiful waterfalls (height 780mts). Close to a nice lake we shot a series of photos, even to my favorite flower, similar to cotton, which grows near the marshes (Common Cotton Grass). I decide to eat on the road with Patti (biscuits, grana cheese, chocolate and apples - seems a party day). For the whole day we are accompanied only by the noise of the wind and water that falls from imposing waterfalls. For me this is one of those mystical and unforgettable days which you will remember for life. We also can see a very near reindeer, a truly dominating animal. We meet the first tourists and trippers (and unfortunately also the noise from the first cellular since days...). We are approaching the most famous Sweden refuge, base camp of the highest mountain: the Kebnekaise (2,100 mts). Here we come at 14:45. There is always a beautiful sun, some wind, and even a nice crisp. I fix the tent with some difficult (due to wind) and begin to be a little concerned about the cold that will last during night. We all wash ourseleves in a pond nearby (men and women zone). Then we go to drink something hot at the bar. Fabio and Anna Claudia mysteriously disappear, until we see them coming back down from the mountain that overlooks the refuge. They went together to share the sunset... so romantic! After a hardly-cooked cream of asparagus, we decide to make a small excursion on the mountain behind the shelter (10 min.). The view is wonderful. Marco is being mystical and decides to stay there alone for a few minutes more. Coming down we drink a cool beer and then everyone goes to sleep. It's cold and windy. After 3:00am, I wake up every half hour (there's always light). I sleep in foetal position and I hardly can wait for 6:00am. I "eat my fingers" for having not accepted the offer of Patti and Anna Claudia to sleep in their tent. I would be warm and also with good company..... Finally at about 5:00am wind decreases and so I can finally fall asleep.

Kebnekaise Refuge - Nikkaluokta - Kiruna (19kms - 2,15h + 0,20h + 1,45 h)

At 6:30 I wake up, disassemble the tent (with diffcult) and go to wash myself while waiting for the opening of the breakfast buffet. I must award myself for bad night spent. Breakfast is fantastic (60 SEK): I am a king! The weather is beautiful. I'm ready for another day.
We begin to walk with a good rhythm through birches and the usual monotonous landscape (myriads of mosquitoes are chasing us!). Patti, I think afraid of losing the ferry, gets us a little hurry. Here we come to the docking pier of the boat, where many people are already waiting. The ferry trip is relaxing (about ½ hour) and apart from the Kebnekaise enveloped by clouds there is nothing special. When we land we also decide to stop for lunch at Lap Dånalds to taste a renburger, a sort of reindeer hamburger (not bad, when you're hunger!). At 13:00 we slowly head towards our ultimate goal: Nikkaluokta, about 5,6kms far. The trail is easy, but swampy. I calmly pass through a forest of birches and arrive at the sanctuary at 14:30. Here I can see the paved road and the first car: we have finished the trek and we are sad to return to "civilization". What bitterness... we make a pause at the shelter waiting for the bus to Kiruna (at 16:30). I eat something, make various purchases and send postcards. I write my memories on Anna Claudia diary: I am inspired and I collect various material. On the bus I tell another series of jokes also because the landscape does not offer anything new. We arrive in Kiruna at 17:40 and decide to sleep in the cabin, because, seen the price, difference was rather small. Andrea makes the whims because he wanted to sleep at the hostel (he wants to do it since some days), but finally remains with us. We go to town to buy some food for dinner: carbonara spaghetti, cheese, cold cuts, bread, dessert, Snow White apple, beer and a good tea. It seems not even true. Then in a bar we drink a hot chocolate. At last I can sleep in a true bed.

Honnisvåg - Nordkapp - Honnisvåg

In the morning I go out for a walk. I descend the way to Honnisvåg for about 3 kms where I saw a small island of fishermen. I shot a series of colour and black & white photographs through the bridge that joins the island to the mainland. After a while I meet "Captain Hook": a man with beard and wool cap that has just a hook instead of his right hand. He said to me that there is private property. Readily I'm going away. I'm coming back to camp prepared to take the bus to North Cape. We leave the backpacks in a bungalow, where they will be resumed in the evening. The bus arrives on time at 12:30. After several climbs and tight curves we get down above the notorious rock. What a disappointment. The place is pretty much touristic: there are a shop, a restaurant, a bar, hotels, self-services, etc.. It seems one of our classic shopping malls. The day is beautiful, but a cold wind blows . I reheat with a coffee. Then finally purchase a sweater (identical to that of Fabio) with the supervision and advice of the waiters. We leave again to stroll along the surrounding cliffs. Going upwards the road we meet different groups of reindeers (always including a white one - so strange...). We decided to come here also to see so many reindeers closely..... The light is ideal for photographs (19:00) and an opportunity for some portraits. Meadows covered with green moss, lichens and shallows with white flowers: the sky is a smooth blue. Along the road we still meet reindeers. Gigi, placing himself at four feet, manages to get a few meters from the flock (Congratulations! - He seems Kevin Costner in "Dances with wolves"). Returning in the shopping centre we decide to go to the cinema. They put every half an hour a movie about North Cape and surroundings with a very evocative soundtrack on three Imax screens. I was so impressed by the projection that I reviewed one more time. At 22:00 we quickly get outside: there is the legendary sunset over the sea. The evening is clear.... What a luck! What a great moment of emotion. A myriad of tourists are set down with cameras and stand to reap the various stages of sunset. At 23:00 the sun finally sets down. A little later we take the bus back to Honnisvåg. Near the campsite Silvia alarm tells us that we need to get off to resume backpacks (really a sudden awakening). In a minute we are into the bungalow (better than Marines and Paratroopers), but unfortunately returning to the road, we see that bus is no longer there. Moments of panic because everyone left something on the bus, except me. Someone wants to come back on foot, others with autostop..., Patti calls the port.... (she's very angry - I saw her only another time in this mood!). As we are moving on foot (8 kms.....), shortly after the bus reappears in the opposite direction. Some Italians who were travelling on the bus forced the driver to return back. Finally everything went to their way. At the end of the line we promptly unload all backpacks, but then we have to reload them again: this is not the right pier where every morning the legendary Hurtigruten Postal ship moors. The adventure continues, but we still have the strength to joke about all. After reaching the deposit of coaches we walk toward the dock. It's 0:30. We are preparing to spend the night on the pier with sleeping bags. Unfortunately, the waiting room is small and already occupied by other tourists. So we pass an hour in the near pub drinking a beer. It's Friday evening and the indigenous are already drunk. Moreover here there's not much to do. Perhaps we meet more dangers here that throughout the trek: a girl blink eyes to Marco, but we (fortunately) see that she is with a fisherman (presumed) big as a closet.... Maybe it is better to retire and go on. Returning to the pier I drink a hot coffee prepared at the moment by Andrea and Bruno. Given the low temperature, close to 0 °C, I escape and position into the corridor of the waiting room (near the bathrooms) where there are also 3 Germans and 2 Italians. Given that my sleeping bag is not very reliable I prefer to set into four walls and under a roof. I spend a good night thinking about those outside.

Back home

Kisses and hugs to our unforgettable group:
Alfred, Sondrio
Andrew, Cuneo
Anna Claudia, Rome
Antonello and Beniamina, Cagliari
Bruno, Germagnano (Turin)
Claudio, Sale Marasino (Brescia)
Egidio and Rossana, Mairano (Brescia)
Fabio, Modena
Marco, Bologna
Marita, Biella
Massimo, Milan
Massimo, Turin
Pierangela, Vicenza
Silvia, Florence