An uncommon wedding trip: Cape North with the motorbike

A JOURNEY OF UNUSUAL WEDDING:
IN A MOTORCYCLE Caponord
(July 26-August 15 2002)

PROTAGONISTS: Mario, Alessia, and their scooters Yamaha T Max 500

BACKGROUND:
This is the record of our adventure on the fly Caponord, a journey-a long desired dream that we wanted to become a reality as the crowning of another memorable moment of our lives, our marriage.
That our choice has been unusual We have thoroughly demonstrated the comments of people to communicate with the chosen destination for the honeymoon el'intenzione to do with the bike (even with the scooter). Almost no one was indifferent and greeted us with calm mind and a touch of envy: those who took us for lunatics, for whom wretch, who told us clearly that we would never have succeeded in the undertaking or that the return should have a grant additional holiday to recover from the 10,000 kilometers of hard work ... These people answered then that the realization of a dream had no money and we reply that we are back now that the price paid for this dream was not so high, what are some 'tired, un po' di pioggia, un po 'di freddo when then nature will show you all the more fascinating, in that of a shining lake, a herd of reindeer, a colony of gulls, the a fjord blue or a promontory on the part of the world where the sun never fails to setting? The trip to Caponord was all that and so much more because it is impossible to summarize in a few lines of these three weeks of constant surprises and emotions continue.
In motion then made the trip also had its own charm because it has been a challenge, a bet with ourselves and others, and the win has given us great satisfaction and great pride, and then there was the total freedom and absolute that only the bike can pass, and while sfrecciano between these extreme landscapes, unique and alone, with the wind beating us on the visor of the helmet and the light of day that never left us, we felt part of this fabulous nature and forget every problem or concern, we were at peace with the whole universe.
Go fly a Caponord is a trip for many but not all because the number of kilometers to do so many weather conditions are often adverse. We were fortunate to encounter rain and cold only in the last few kilometers before the promontory and a few other times on the way back because many people have made almost all of the same trip under the water. We also were lucky to see the sun because if Caponord for the latitude it fails to ever actually setting is almost always hidden by clouds and fog. Here, then, that those who are not totally sure of their resistance to these possible (and probabilissime) adversity and has a genuine passion for motorcycle and outdoor destinations could very well choose the most peaceful and relaxing to do this same trip to plane or ship. The feelings will not be the same but perhaps the comfort and convenience will compensate the loss ....
For our part we can only say that I have been very happy in our "unusual" choice in three weeks and believe that he has discovered much of the Great Northern finding the right balance between the travel as "ground" miles and the travel is understood as making new places: So we made our beautiful tirate (including over a thousand kilometers) where we were taken by the frenzy of reaching a goal important (Caponord first or our beloved little house on the way back) but we have not given up on stopping a couple of days at places they deserved a little 'more than a quick pass (in the first Copenhagen, which is the most beautiful of the northern capital, and Stockholm, the island of Caponord and beautiful Lofoten islands, where we were also very happy for more) and we have not forgotten or Trondheim or Bergen we have much preferred to Oslo. All we have certainly been able to see and we are disappointed that he quickly walked the Finland (among other things without having the chance to try one of the famous saunas), not to be moved from Tromsø and not having seen the Prekestolen (a huge cliff cut into the rock from which parts of Stavanger as a pulpit overlooking the waters of Lysefjord) but while some had to surrender it and so maybe we have the excuse to come back here one day.

 

first day

FIRST DAY: Gallicano (LU) - Dachau (MONACO)
FRI 26/07
Nothing special, peaceful journey and especially without rain. There seems not to be forgotten anything at home ... who knows if it is indeed the case.
MONACO arrived at after the 16 wanted to go and visit the concentration camp at Dachau, and we asked a passer-how to get there: his claims were true and we arrived in front of the entrance gate but just the exact time of closing (hours 17): do the same tomorrow before we go to divide the north of Germany.
We searched a nearby hotel (Hotel Bavaria), left luggage room, paid our € 75 cash and then dined in the Italian pizzeria nearby at 18 (even my grandfather!). At 19 we were already in the room and after a while 'tele we asleep (me after nine, the Mario sleepyhead earlier). We wake up just to go take a drink from the vending machine and then maybe to the slew five for the other side and say, even two hours of sleep.

Secondo giorno

SECOND DAY: MONACO - HAMBURG
SAT 27/07
We get up around seven and we had breakfast in the company of young athletes of the Australian national not know well which sports (rowing, I believe), then we went (finally) to visit the Dachau Konzentrierungslager.
We only paid parking and in fact would be a great contradiction to charge admission to a place of memory.
We have seen the rebuilding of one-bedroom cabin and then the big square where twice a day was the call of the prisoners and even if it was now completely empty you imagine a crowd of poor devils completely annihilated as if they were, eyes full of cogli terror and the body reduced all'osso, had time to stay with each property at attention for more than half an hour. We are then passed to the crematorium and gas chamber and I must say that in addition to the lump in my throat also felt a crushing sense of suffocation. The last part of the visit we paid to the museum where you could read documents on the birth of the Third Reich, on the various prison camps and what was life in Dachau.
Left the camp we wore the suits because antipioggia drizzle that had accompanied us from waking up (and for which Mario I had a lot taken for the bottoms because I dared to open the umbrella is not showing well worth a centaur) was somewhat increased. To exit from Monaco has some 'hard and in our wanderings we have done anything for a memorable tourist trip around the airport that made us lose more than half an hour. However then we have found the right path and also the good weather since salivamo more northerly and the temperature increased more (usually around 30 degrees). The suit antipioggia we clearly lifted almost immediately and the only incident of the trip was the breaking dell'interfono that clearly had to take place during the stage longer and boring, all highway, so that during which the only pastime could be the talk a bit.
A few considerations to be done on the stage today:
1. climb more and more towards the north, the service areas are rade (remember that we are in exDDR!) so that we are twice removed from the fear of being dry;
2nd what one sees from nothing and the only exciting news for us travelers of warm and sunny southern Europe is clear that wind farms are denser toward the windy North Sea;
3rd everyone said that in Germany centaurs are warmly greeted, well, this will be done only in three or four cases, while Mario will reach every time and clearly the lack of response to the greeting is invariably incazzata;
4th we have not met a plate I miss Italy.
We lunched in a service (Bratwurst and Kartoffelsalad) and dined and stayed in a motel near Hamburg.

Third - fourth day

THIRD DAY: HAMBURG - COPENHAGEN
DOM 28/07
FOURTH DAY: COPENHAGEN
MON 29/07
At about 8.30 (or maybe before) we left the motel to meet PUTTGARDEN and from there take the ferry to Denmark. Travel peaceful and under a scorching sun (who said that the north gets cold?) Almost without realizing it we were boarded the ferry to Roedby (the ticket was paid to the Motel and Puttgarden was just a ferry departing ). Fifty minutes of sunshine and good wind and we were at 11 in Denmark full of enthusiasm and eagerness to reach Copenhagen. This enthusiasm and impatience that we have also made sure to make gasoline, do not forget that just because the road that leads to Rødby Copenhagen is so full of sites with toilets and refreshment points but has only two gas stations (at and at the end) and the first since we have just seen we had to leave halfway through the main road so as not to risk anything and do our first full-Dkr (this deviation which has been shown how quiet and well cared Danes are the villages).
COPENHAGEN joints we find refreshment in a McDonald there I tried to call the only Danish friend with whom I was still in contact but the other side I have only heard his voice on the answering machine that bofonchiò something unintelligible. A little evil, we rushed to the office of tourism, where we booked into a hotel near the station for DKK 650 per night (€ 88.19).
When the lady at the reception I asked where we could park the bike, I received a response that could easily carry it in the courtyard, passing through the hall .... One thing to not believe it! I helped push Mario to turn it inside because I felt a little 'too much and so if she was safe in two days.
While the bike is rested Mario and I certainly did not as two days because we do not know how many ground miles to the streets and everything on foot because we had also attempted to take a bike in Copenhagen as well you can take a bike loan simply by including in a chain which is linked DKK 20 (which then recover the return, the operation is like that of the supermarket trolleys), but the attempt has failed miserably because we found two mean free bike, but had the saddle that according to Mario was lethal and the other had a weapon chain that went for his cabbages. Well, certainly we have not complained because it was totally free.
Here are our comments on the Danish capital:
• 1st Copenhagen, we found the beautiful, full of life and very very sunny and positive. The only new here is that life is really expensive (but we knew this already), and so here are some examples: small bottle of water at the supermarket 14 DKK (€ 2.04), pizza + salad + coffee + water 184 DKK (€ 25.03 ), 7 + 4 apricots peaches 40 DKK (€ 5.44), beer average 40 cl 50 DKK (€ 6.80).
• 2nd In Copenhagen, we found the highest concentration of pregnant women ever, usually quite young or alternatively already mothers and the child in a wheelchair (hardly carry them so long as they do not have 4 or 5 years and so happen to see them all contorti now that do not enter more in the middle of transportation). Another means to transport children is the so-called Christiania bike has three wheels and a big basket on the front used for the expenditures.
• 3rd Bikes on loan but I said another innovation that we have here are the rickshaw taxi, taxis virtually the pedal to carry two people at most used for tour (25 DKK departure plus 7 per minute - almost 10 minutes are to cost nearly € 13!).
• 4th Undoubtedly, the Danes trust each other because the bike is left in the street simply by putting the wheel locks and padlocks and chains come from us (blessed them with a neighbor so little inclined to theft!).
• 5th Mario believes that the Danish women are overall very nice but have a defect in the ass down (his words).
• 6th The integration between the different races is very forward and here we often have seen the stangona blonde with the man of color, with Asian Viking wonderful children and so dark of skin, and rasta biondicci.
• 7. The Little Mermaid is indeed small but not microscopic as I expected (it is a woman-sized!), Perhaps because everyone had told me that they had expected to see more before I was prepared to so little that I seemed very large and very suggestive. The only thing is that after having seen it from behind the boat, we also wanted to review the front and we had to do a lot of road on foot since it is located in the north-east of the city.
• 8. Given the Strøget (long pedestrian boulevard and commercial center) and Nyhavn (the district and the picturesque life of the city) also wanted to see something alternative and so we went to visit Christiania, practically a city within a city populated by the rebels and the marginalized social. You can not take pictures inside the district but no one took as intrusive by their business, that they are simply to relax and should not be anything if you do not sell grass (the cultivated by them) or pieces of non-smoking ... is our world, but certainly it was interesting to see since it is also a reality of Copenhagen and a clear demonstration of its extreme tolerance.
• 9.Last consideration about who has hosted (Angarshotel near the station on a street by the unpronounceable name): of kindness we have had in abundance but the room was really a great topaia two to three meters with a bathroom Smurfs where the sink was in the shower curtain (and among others to operate the shower we had to ask the lady at the reception because we imagined that we had to open the taps of the sink and then pull with a force lever long desired to have the water and wash a little ').

Fifth - sixth day

FIFTH DAY: COPENHAGEN - Stockholm
MAR 30/07
SIXTH DAY: Stockholm
WED 31/07
We wake up in Copenhagen with the sound of a strong roar of water .... "Here we are, arriving in the big rains of the North" we said instead of hello, but was in reality only one of which scattered thunderstorms weather Mario received via phone had planned better so!
Exactly a quarter to nine we started from and then Øresundbroen (bridge of 16 km tunnel connecting Copenhagen to Malmö and then Denmark and Sweden - 120 DKK = € 16.32) and Sweden. There too much heat, but also strong wind, so that the right side of the head that made me mad by evil. In Sweden, gasoline supplies have begun to make them pay at ATMs so often happened that there was an opportunity to pay the cashier. During this stage and I transfer Mario we have granted just a salad and an ice cream and we yarn as fast as possible towards Stockholm, where we arrived around 16.30.
Once in town we have not lost in contemplation of the many things to see but we have precipitated all'Hotellcentralen to check availability of a hotel room. We found a bunker with no windows even smaller than that of Copenhagen, almost similar to the cabins of the cruise ships, with the second reading that was even turned from the wall. But the price was good, 500 SEK per night (€ 54.28) and also the position in the center near the World Trade Center.
Stockholm say that? Very very beautiful but also very, very chaotic. E 'smallest Copenhagen (700,000 inhabitants to more than one million) but she knows much more than the metropolis since expanded to 18 different islands and is full of people that goes quickly and moves on four wheels (in Copenhagen the means of transport used was the bike!). On its streets then write a pitiful veil because they are all a plot of one-way streets, roundabouts, tunnels and elevated highways that reach a place that as the crow flies is only a few meters ahead involves not know how many miles, especially if (like us) do not know the streets and makes a few mistakes in evaluation. I must say that Mario has been very good in and then found with the bike is all easier. For the bike we bought the place in the parking garage (100 SEK per day = € 10.85) more for reasons of security since other street bike parking is allowed in the appropriate spaces.
Stockholm we have virtually turned the whole with the bike on which I have done several times with the camera, while we walk around Normholm (the commercial and administrative center of the city) and Gamla Stan (the old medieval town with the Royal Castle, the Cathedral and a whole series of very picturesque alleys).
Considerations:
• 1st Fine buildings but they are often next to modern buildings obscene by an architectural point of view (the guide spoke Routard Stockholm as the city of paradoxes, and no doubt he was right).
• 2nd Fleets of people running non-stop, if you were in Copenhagen infused quiet here you mount the nervous system.
• 3rd We have not met with virtually no street artist and it took a lot to atmosphere of the whole.
• 4th Who said that in Sweden live in the most beautiful women in the world? Are more bruttina views of Danes in Copenhagen and perhaps even more round, then Mario is not liked! Even their children are still young and often see a pregnant push a wheelchair.
• 5th Even here a multi-thousand and families of all colors (I mean the skin).
• 6th Taxi (here of course only on four wheels) all have Asian features.
• 7. If in Stockholm the days of rain are prevalent, we only saw a storm of a mezz'oretta.

Seventh day

SEVENTH DAY: Stockholm-Skellefteå
GIO O1/08
This morning we were woken up early, because I do not riposatissima not having slept a lot (strange dreams ... this trip haunts me!). We are down to have breakfast and before nine we were ready for departure, but I could not find batteries in the collar and so I have taken over the key of the room and lift up to check if I had forgotten. Nothing to do but at least he found the receipt for the payment all'Hotellcentralen for the reservation of the room and so are ripassa from the reception to get back to 100 SEK which was already paid as deposit and the kind lady I had first wanted to return claiming that I had nothing in hand to prove it.
We have taken the E4 Sundsvall and direction as we proceed we notice that the landscape could become more and more Nordic and picturesque: less birch and pine and fir trees, and even more typical houses in wood-colored brick with white window frames and sventolanti flags, then our entry in the Great Northern was really done.
We traveled well by making a single stop for lunch and another for a coffee (in addition to those for Ultrafast refueling during which went to pay without even take off the helmet from the head). The time has also witnessed today and we caught only a few minutes by rain shortly after the start while advancing the sky was ever more free from clouds. We set out to achieve Umeå but we have exceeded a hundred kilometers taken away by a spectacular landscape with the blue horizon before us and the clouds at more layers on top, which gave us the illusion to be confronted with a sea dotted with islands, unforgettable! We found a campsite just before Skellefteå in front of a pretty lake (Ljusvattens Camping). Unfortunately they did not Hytter by two but by only four people but we have taken for 350 SEK (€ 38) plus 70 (€ 7.60) for dinner, consisting of a piece of pizza and Full dell'insalata which was manna from sky affamatissimi because we were tired and also a lot to strive for better.


• Cabbage! Are 22.30 in hytte curtains are pulled and can still write without turning on the light! If I fall asleep first be curious to see after dark, perhaps ever? Perhaps we have already crossed the Arctic Circle and we are not careful?
• Ah! Forgot to say that the temperature has dropped a lot and over 30 ° in Stockholm has decreased to 17/18. Today I have worn for the first time sottocasco tomorrow and put the pile and upholstery and the pants (ah, for the record warmth of my husband was until now fully in keeping with summer dress, cotton jersey long-sleeve jacket no padding, virtually sealing that I had dropped from sin!).
• ORE 3.15 is even more days off (obviously already here is never night) and I can not sleep with the whole is light! Try to put the bandana over the eyes ... speriamo features!

Eight day

EIGHTH DAY: Skellefteå - Nordkapp
FRI 02/08
NINTH DAY: Nordkapp
SAT 03/08
Yes, we have reached the elusive head and I now write with a front of the famous map that say it is but then you see so well because there is a dense fog ... ... but let's go with order.
The night in Ljusvattens Camping was therefore passed without calar see in the night, we get up very early and a quarter to eight we were already in the saddle with the intention to move as close as possible to take advantage of the North Cape and the good weather fact that the day was that for almost 24 hours. Not believed to still be able to achieve during the day even though Mario was thrown across the idea, I think more to want to challenge that conviction. Around noon we went to Finland and to the two already had a second one that the original plans had to be the goal of the day (ROVANIEMI), but it was too early to stop. We lunched in an area of service, we visited the home of Father Christmas at the Arctic Circle (Napapiiri), we took photos of the rite, we have sent the postcard you received for Christmas and saw that a Nordkapp mancavano " only "680 km .... why do not they? The decision was therefore taken!
What about Finland? A world of its own compared to other Scandinavian countries, especially for the language is not German and it can be seen up in Denmark I have got the German, Swedish to English are gone and this has worked well even in low-Finland, but further north is just too much to understand the ... maybe it would go much better with Russia (because the area of the highlands Inari Russians were really a stone's throw, and physiognomy of the people reminded us that geographical proximity), but this language I do not own and then I tried to make me understand how I could.
In Finland, we met the first reindeer (in Sweden it was full of signs that indicated they can not cross but it was seen even the shadow): at first disappeared, we also stopped to make pictures, not knowing that there recently they have found in flocks?
The presence of reindeer also marked our entry into what is generally called Lapland but that is more precisely the Region of the Sami, the nomadic people who move following the herds of reindeer that are the basis of its economy (Oh dear, this does not is more so true because over time the Sami have gradually lost much of their identity as a people in its own right, became more and more Swedish, Finnish or Norwegian, and we can see them dressed only in the typical souvenir shops they manage !).
In Lapland we began to meet and the weather (there could be after four thousand kilometers in the sun, no?) And there is to say that the black clouds full of rain seemed to come right from the north to where we were headed. The fearless but had decided to go ahead and there is to say that up to 100 km from Caponord water if they have not even taken a lot.
It 'been a great pleasure especially along the stretch of road that goes to KAAMANEN Karigasniemi. It is a straight line with constant ups and downs that divides the landscape into two: during the climb as we approach the illusion of the horizon at the end but when the road began to come back down here is that new views were to open up before us .... Spectacular! Only eight cars and a motorcycle have crossed our path but I do not know how many reindeer have cut the road, among other things also very dangerous because the bottom was slimy, our arrival often groggy and they remained there for a moment to look buildings and frightened in the final analysis we were only visitors inappropriate and noisy invaders of their territory.

A Karigasniemi we have crossed the border of the second day and we went to Norway. The first town meeting was to Karasjok, where we rushed to the ATM of a bank that we were totally devoid of Norwegian crowns to use cash. Here we were like aliens Watched by a group of children intent on playing, which made us think about how very difficult it is to live in these places in the far north of the border where the harshness of the territory and the bad weather certainly did not encourage trade with the rest of the world.
In Karasjok we are on the E6 to Lakselv and there we have officially made our entry into the fjords of Norway. But this first fjord was far from the canon with rocky cliffs and the sea that there are wedges (it was in fact much more like a swamp). To capture the moment, made very striking by magical light tones of rose that I can call the "bright" polar night, I wanted to return with the camera but their hands were too stiff and when I then decided to brave the cold and the remove gloves were already toward the inland fjord and goodbye. The following were the top ten in the evening and witness the struggle of the sun to disappear behind the horizon is not and when its glory we left, because it sank behind a hill or a cloud, there was almost instinctively to try to remove the hands or blow away the barrier that from time to time he was hiding. Then the sun has left us at all (the last 100 km before the Cape) and the rain came with the wind and the great cold. There have to say that we have been truly heroic to want to go forward because the fatigue was beginning to be felt and we knew already that even a Caponord the sun could not shine. Machines if they have encountered very few and none of motorcyclists, only reindeer He could not have cared to bad weather and continued to burn on the quiet side of the road.
At midnight on the dot, we are on the tunnel Caponord (7km and cost NOK 109 - € 14.82) and exit, when I was up to the cold and the temperature was about 5 °, it is on the light oil. Moment of total panic .... "He put his feet on land already in hand with the book of instructions and Yamaha has also asked for my help poor treasure, but as I was stiff and I had the quake I could almost move your hands. However we managed to make the topping off of the alert even if the light was definitely that of a warning that triggered automatically every 5500 km. The light was turned off and we are still divided by the light (which is when the night gives the almost lunar landscape features) but also with the wind and rain in gusts.

Ninth day

Twenty to one and we have come to exact Nordkapp but the toll for the toll of the car park (that's the magic of the moment was ruined!) We learned that the two exact Nordkapphalle would shut down (and we thought that able to stay there the whole night! We collected a lot of news on the much sought after goal, but this detail was overlooked there). We have facts and enter without paying the ticket (so we did the next day - 185 NOK = € 25.10), but the fog was such that not even seen the map, other than the sun! We are well informed about the possibility of sleep nell'osservatorio and in fact there was a room (the suite 71 ° 10 '21 ") and" modest "cost around € 333 ... well, you will also have our trip marriage but not the hearing of us just wasting our money in this way and we have clearly said no, we have drunk a hot chocolate with around superfast only people who are busy for the closure (who had the money, who cleaned the tables , who put on the chairs ...) and then back out with a big boulder that weighed on our heads: where cabbage sleep tonight?
We were told that the camps were open all night around here but in reality they were all closed, so we tried with the hotels: the first was open but no one has responded to my call to the bell at the reception (there among other c ' were comfortable chairs that I have not tried recently), the second the same story but you saw the rooms, all free and with the door open. I had already decided to throw on one of those inviting beds when I noticed a warning in several languages and in Italian in which it was said that those who saw entering a room to your liking whose key was still hanging in the dashboard could sit perfectly well that it would then thought in the morning to settle the bill .... That made five minutes after we were already in our bunk beds. It was three in the morning and one day we had 1150 km journey, he deserved it or not?
At first I was not able to sleep as I was stiff from the cold that I had entered the bone and even disturbed by this light that gives you no respite even at night, but then collapsed and we were awakened this morning at ten. We have a nice shower and we ate everything that was offered for breakfast since the night before we had even dined as they were taken from the heat to reach the head, then we tried to solve the problem because the gas tank was almost dry: to reach the cape once again had to travel 10 km, many rifarne and then back down to around 25 to get to the gas station to Honnigsvåg (the only of the island) and that, unless they were able to multiply the little present in the tank, was a venture impossible. The gracious lady of the Mini Price Motellet (a Skarsvåg, the fishing village further north in Europe - this is now the name dell'alberghetto) has then shown the house of one that could probably sell a couple of liters of fuel, but we have not found and then we modified the programs and not risk anything we soon fell to Honnigsvåg where we put 12 liters of gasoline and a half (we were just dry). To trace and reach Nordkapp again we found a wind that even the night before and then the magical mist that "dear" friend, we took the company all day (we were returning to the Cape to half past one). We have not only resigned as not to see the midnight sun, but even the sun in general, and photos to the globe we have taken in those rare moments when the malevolent fog lifted for a few seconds (but at the end of the c ' were black clouds to act as a shield).
We met a group of motorcyclists simpaticissimi Bologna (second day because of the knowledge just arrived at the planetarium had met a girl in Garfagnana - too funny: go on the part of the world and you find yourself close to the house!) And we have swallowed bitter when we told that their first year before the Nordkapp, August 9, had not only seen the sun but also enjoyed a temperature of 26 ° and allowed to stand on a promontory in shirt (let alone, I have today cold although the entire wearing my luggage!). However, if their story has to be done un po 'd'invidia then there must have brought some' luck because not only the fog left but also the clouds have opened a gate and there was the celestial vision of the sun that made head.
They were nine and ten in the evening and Mario more excited than ever did not know how many images and taken with the camera.
For a while 'we have enjoyed the show with the hope that the miracle could last until midnight (or so since the total absence of the sun at Nordkapp is only until the end of July), but after the ten, when entire fleets of tourists descended by bus and rushed to the globe or simply took place in front of the stained glass window that allows viewing the warmth, the sun is back to hiding behind the clouds, this time I believe in a definitive way, but we are satisfied that his wedding gift is still able to us.
I am eleven and one fourth of August 3 and I think even the waiting midnight up here and we will return to our alberguccio to rest and prepare ourselves as best way to tackle the next stage we do not know yet where we will bring as Tromsø maybe it's a little 'too far.
There are some considerations on the head:
• 1st It gave us great experience regardless of the sun for a while he 'showed his presence, because we have made reaching a dream and put his foot on the most northerly point of Europe.
• 2nd The fact that the company has been accomplished in motion has made us even more proud and pleased with ourselves because it's too easy to be comfortable on a boat or plane and then take one of the many tour buses that go up to without having promontorio 4500 km on the shoulders and face the cold, wind and rain here that the Island.
• 3rd The magic of this place, we especially enjoyed before the arrival of the dozens of trips that have taken away much of this magic, but we want to do? And 'thanks to tourism and that we could reach Nordkapp, which is a place so remote, located in one of the most inhospitable areas of Europe (the cold and wind we were really impressed as this landscape of nothing but for affascinantissimo this), but villages that are around here have given rise to these structures to welcome fearless who want to reach the head and we never have the opportunity, as we have also squandered numerous crowns in postcards and small souvenirs that somehow show our presence here ( "He clearly wanted to buy and waiting

Tenth day

TENTH DAY: Nordkapp - STORSLETT
DOM 04/08
And so we left Caponord, but soon as it was not our intention: to 10.30 we wake up, we had a full breakfast, put all our stuff and only 12 were ready to share.
Of the stage today is not much to say, we had set the goal but only the direction (E6 south) and we stopped just when we had no more desire to travel and what has happened halfway between Alta and Nordkjosboth, around STORSLETT, where we took a hytte for 250 NOK (€ 34) in Fosselv Camping (really nothing good).
Caponord we left with a much better time than we had taken on our arrival, it was not hot but not raining and there was fog, perhaps today the sun would have remained longer in the cape. We crossed the Finnmark, reindeer kingdom (and in fact we have seen many) and we arrived in Troms going about 400 km which is not much, given the much longer stages that we were accustomed to travel but that they become if we consider the conditions these roads (which have a zigzag between the fiords!) and speed limits very low here in Norway six forced to comply properly if you do not want to triple the cost of holiday salatissime fines.
was a milestone not exciting with the cold (and to think that I thought after the Chief to return very quickly to temperatures acceptable) and I will be as of tomorrow we will bring as much as possible to board the Lofoten ( We have discarded the hypothesis Tromsø albeit reluctantly because it meant a detour of about 150 km, and among the fjords are many!). In these islands we are talking about very mild temperatures for the benefits influences of the Gulf ... we'll see.

Eleventh day

ELEVENTH DAY: STORSLETT - GULLENFJORD
LUN O5/08
We have come today more kilometers of yesterday but the stage was much more relaxing thanks to the temperature rise that is very nice and a solicello he has warmed to almost the entire route.
I repeat that these Norwegian fjords are beautiful but really hard to go snail speed!
We are here tonight in a nice camping at GULLENFJORD, north of Lodigen, the strip of land above the islands Vestrålen that we land tomorrow then go to save Lofoten by ferry. The hytte this time is very nice and also the lace curtains and the vase of flowers on the balcony.
Of the stage I can say that I was really relaxed, we finished crossing the Troms and Nordland in we went, and this passage was marked by an apparent strengthening of the vegetation much more green and full of trees. Before we left the Narvik E6 and we have placed on the E10, which runs along the sea from a streaking Caribbean.

Twelfth day

TWELFTH DAY: GULLENFJORD - Lofoten islands
MAR 06/08 (Henningsvær)
And so we have reached these magical islands and there is to say that everything good said about them was true without any exaggeration.
They hit you from the ferry (we have taken a Melbu to 11.10) when you are as a sharp-pointed mountain from which it stands on a beautiful sea, then along to every corner find a pleasant discovery. The landscape varies greatly and there we noticed already experiencing the first of these islands, that of AUSTVAGØY: first you are to travel in the high peaks that even small parts still have snow, then find the green lakes, such as Alpine, rounded rocks along with transparent bottoms around and finally you have in front of white sandy languages with crowds of people who defy the latitude and the bathroom are real natural pools.
We too have worn the costume and we took to the beach and we have tried to swim but we were content to just dip their feet leaving the total immersion in our fellow towel that in most cases were much more accustomed northern us to the frozen waters. Maybe tomorrow we try again and we had a week and a half spent in the Great North increased resistance to low temperature of our body.
We finished with HENNINGSVÆR, a picturesque fishing village, where we rented for the night on a typical rorbu pier. Rorbuer The houses are built on a palafitte ports of these islands used by fishermen in the winter cod.
In summer they are coveted by tourists and clearly we we wanted to experience one. After two attempts went to empty it, we found one for 500 NOK (€ 67.84) has its own pier staff, two bunk beds (we have now resigned to return to sleep in the same bed until after our return home), a kitchenette, shower and toilet. So tonight we cooked a fish soup lyophilized bought at the supermarket along with a strange preparation of sausage and vegetables and we dined by candlelight with a view of the other houses in the port. Oh dear, not that the candle to create who knows what the atmosphere outside since the sun was still high, but we have tried the same, or we are not we honeymoon?
The coffee we took to nearby pubs, the Finnholmen Brygge, where we also granted a beer in two, the first of the Great North (33 cl, 54 NOK = € 7.32, not bad right?).
Tomorrow we go to discover the islands to the south, we will seek a new home for the night (if the weather holds and I'd like to experience camping in a free beach but Mario seems perplexed) el'indomani ferry to Bodø.
• PS 'Mario has not been able to resist their own, and has bought a fishing rod. Believed to have made a bargain but in reality it is not known how the reel On the run, and so what was to be a source of relaxation has become a cause for stress because the thread is knotted to the continuing ... it was truly a sight to see smoccolare against those who had sold him and even gain from the poor gulls who, heedless of his misfortunes, continued with their quiet songs (the outside was more gentle: "O gull, with a saw!").
• PS''I woke up at three in the morning to go to the bathroom and outside there were unforgettable colors .... I pulled something back and I went out to re-image of rifarlo the next night if I was successful because that is the night to color these places of magic.

Thirteenth day

THIRTEENTH DAY: Lofoten islands (Å)
WED 07/08
I must say that the surprise here is endless and now are even more ecstatic yesterday.
We left Henningsvær before nine and we went to the islands that are located further south, primarily VESTVAGØY, where we found another white beach (the Aukland, near Utakleiv) in which however we have not stopped since sun was a little 'fatigue to appear from the clouds, then FLAKSTADØY and finally MOSKENESØY.
In this island, the southernmost of the Lofoten, we did not know how many stops to photograph and return with the camera mainly to HAMNØY and REINE.
We then landed at the village, named after a very short, Å, which is a real jewel, however, with a view to the world. It 's all perched on the rocks where they were built many rorbuer that largely make up the local youth hostel. We took lodging in a private rorbu, the last of the country, run by a gracious lady and very nice that we took for mad when he learned that we were from and we were at Nordkapp. We also did the rebate (300 instead of the estimated NOK 400, € 40.70) for a royal suite with four bedrooms, living room and also a large TV, however I do not think that switch as time goes enjoyed here in another way and certain that nature in its purest form is the best program possible.
If the kingdom was the Lapland reindeer Å is the kingdom of gulls that nest on the roofs of undisturbed rorbuer center and nestles on the rocks all around. I am a company fairly heavy and I doubt that tonight we will sleep easy to take but this is their world, we are the element of disturbance, then Let us leave their gorgheggi that at the end of this holiday sure they belong to memories more vivid and unforgettable.
Even today, "He put into operation its new fishing rod, but as of yesterday's results if they are seen and so tonight we will lift the urge to fish andandocelo to eat at the restaurant (Brygga Restaurant, right in front of our rorbu) ... you know fault.
• PS 'I took the carpaccio of smoked whale meat, and I must say that I really liked apart from the color a little' cause you (it is in fact a kind of black bresaola!). Mario has taken the catfish (tasty as well) and we all spent NOK 340 ... well, more than € 45 for an appetizer (my) and the second of Mario, but every once in a while he can or not a little luxury?
•''PS Oh, forgot to say that in addition to continually meet the Italian motorcyclist known Caponord today we have also reviewed an Italian Gorizia labeled with a car that had passed on the motorway after Stockholm, who has also told us that he had slept in our hotel in Skarsvåg the night after our departure (he had noticed our names written in the attendance register). Funny no?

Fourteenth day

FOURTEENTH DAY: Å - VERDALSØRA
THU 08/08 (90 km from Trondheim)
Uh, that day long and we had today, which began with the sound of the alarm at 5.30 (we had the ferry to Bodø hour later) and ended up in a camp 90 km from Trondheim to eight in the evening, when we finally dropped the saddle and affamatissimi also quite tired after almost 650 kilometers without stopping. One thing at the ferry for us BODØ cost 319 NOK (€ 43.28), but we did save a lot 'of kilometers, and has allowed us to be ready at 9:30 to start the exact stage of the day, a stage repeat long that we did cross the Nordland, lonely and untouched land that is covered with mountains and beautiful lakes of glacial origin and reach TRONDLELAG. Of the stage today to say that? We have again witnessed the real changes to the climate and landscape that many times there had been repeated at the school of geography and then gradually coming down and we latitude closer to the Arctic Circle and then overcome it, we saw the temperature rise and moved by a landscape devoid of trees consisting only of moss, rocks, glaciers and small lakes, the green and majestic forests of conifers that were framed by a huge picturesque lakes waters that reflected all that I overlooked, and not for last a blue sky, creating beautiful landscapes of double games. This step was also marked by the change of the animals depicted in the road with notice of possible crossing from reindeer to elk, sheep, and finally to the cows .... Pity not to have photographed them all!
We review the Arctic Circle around noon (also imposing mausoleum here in the desert for the sale of expensive souvenirs) with a temperature around 25 degrees and a great desire to go as far as possible towards Trondheim. We have been speaking and we stopped just 90 Km from the capital of Norway. Solita hytte in Soria Moria Camping VERDALSØRA where we met a pair of motorcyclists Italians have done the rounds on the contrary we have given tips on what to see before you go to Bergen. We have also offered a café that had seen the moka (the first true Italian coffee after two weeks) and we were chatting until around 23 tardissimo for our Scandinavian habits!

Fifteenth day

FIFTEENTH DAY: VERDALSØRA - TRONDHEIM - Lesja
FRI 09/08
Even this morning around 9.30 we were ready for departure, and we safely made the 90 km that separated us from TRONDHEIM, town and small (we visited in half a day). Especially the beautiful cathedral (Nidarosdomkirke), with a beautiful Gothic interior, where we also had the opportunity to attend a short concert organ. We also climbed the tower of the building and after the steep 172 steps we had the consolation to see the whole city from above. Ah, just inside the cathedral we meet the kind of Gorizia and when we were parking a couple of centaurs veronesi with what we had ferried to Lofoten. The world is really small, or rather, who descends from the Caponord then those same stages.
Trondheim left we did over 200 km at speeds very well supported since before there were cars that way (before we stop the evil police had to stop them!). A Dombås spending and we have done for the first time we have given something better than the usual sandwich: lettuce and slices of salmon on the grill to barbecue disposable that we had never seen outside of Norway (which is strongly to those who, without want to plucking at the restaurant, wants to treat well your stomach). We then stopped in a campsite in the countryside to Lesja, we took a economicissima hytte, this time even for 220 NOK (€ 29.85), and after a refreshing shower we prepared our dinner Luculliana.

Sixteenth day

SIXTEENTH DAY: Lesja - GEREINGERFJORD - loen
SAB 10/08 (Nordfjord)
We made a stop today that he showed for the first time that in my imagination was the true image of Norway, or a narrow fjord blue emerald wedged between high mountains rich with waterfalls, this was the Gereinger Fjord, an entertainment dream but we leave in an orderly because the show was not only Gereinger but also before and after.
Left the camp we continued the road to Åndalsnes. For the way we are the first pleasant surprises in the form of narrow waterfalls down rapids on both sides of the valley and then the majestic TROLLVEGGEN, the peaks of the Troll, the overhanging wall to Europe's highest (1300 m).
Åndalsnes before we are on the 63 and there are some surprises have succeeded one after the other and have almost no time to appease the wonder for one we are immersed in wonder at the other. The road began to rise (slope of 15%) and we started to walk TROLLSTIGEN called the Road of Troll, which with its 11 hairpin bends is practically screwed to the side of the mountain and adorned by beautiful waterfalls such as Stigfossen, who for over 180 m downstream precipitates. The last hairpin turn lead us to the plateau Stigrøra where we paused to admire the Troll Road in its entirety.
We are then broken down for the stretch of 63 that is called ROAD OF AQUILE, which has given us from a first glimpse on the Supreme Gereinger Fjord, magnificent! Pity that the time had a 'clouded and thus the colors could not express in their full glory.
From Gereinger us yet recovered to the Dalsnibba with the show in front of Jostalbreen, the largest glacier in Europe and then down to a series of long tunnels to STRYN in Nordfjord.
Our intentions were to take the E39 and go up to Førde to be already fairly well forward in achieving the next day in Bergen, but loen Mario saw a camp on the fjord and has very democratically decided that the stage was to end today with a good catch. For the record fish it is not is sight I miss the shade but now the decision was taken and the decisions of the head should never be challenged.

Seventeenth day

SEVENTEENTH DAY: loen - Bergen
DOM 11/08
The weather today was not so much we decided to reach Bergen by following the road less panoramic but shorter, then from loen BYRKJELO, FØRDE, LAVIK (where we ferried over Oppedal and meet the four Germans who two days sail from our own streets) and from there yet until Bergen E39 (with the last 70 km in the rain).
In Bergen we soon arrived at the office of tourism to look for a room almost the whole town was dead (or at least all of the cheaper alternatives), but we found a room at a mile and half from the town for 820 NOK ( € 111.26). Fatigue, however, was greater than arriving at because what on paper seemed a cavolata in reality it was a difficult undertaking: having found the way (Sandviksveien) we realized that it ended before the number that we wanted moral of the story we have come I do not know how many miles and even taken two long tunnels that have brought us out of the city (fortunately not on a Sunday you pay the toll for entry), we have not smoccolato in so many languages, asked residents place even less informed of us, and then discover that the continuing of the street was right there beside him, behind a hedge. We have placed our things in the room (really nothing beautiful) and then we reassembled in the saddle to the center and eat something (they were half past three in the afternoon!).
We finished the fish market on Torget in the center, which is a spectacle for the eyes and the palate: there are plenty of stalls where they work for the most part young people from all over the world (among the shoals of fish are speak a little 'all languages) that will offer fresh fish, canned or ready to be eaten in the form of sandwiches of shrimp and salmon, crab burned, fish soup, smoked whale meat and chi più ne ha più ne put. Completely fascinated by this crowd of young people buzzing with a great desire to work, and also very hungry, we were thrown on two salmon sandwiches (discovering that the salmon was rather figure!), We have drunk a corn chowder then we were WILLINHOLLY by a Florentine boy of Norwegian mother who made us taste the excellent shrimp that we have bought and which we peeled and sbarbati right in front of the stand ... .. a true delight!
We then visited the Bryggen, the old quarter of the German merchants, formed by an array of colorful wooden house, unfortunately not the original ones since they were destroyed in the fires, and we began to enter and leave the store to buy a souvenir new troll to bring home to the other company in our possession. Dead tired (do not hide, I especially) we took the funicular Fløyfjellet on the hill overlooking the city, a true spectacle even without the sun. Returned to the base we saw the boys in Bologna that we expect the motion, we stopped a little 'in chat and then we went to make us a pizza from Peppe's Pizza. Well, not really recommend it to anyone because for a pizza in two seasoned with ketchup, we have spent well 153 NOK (€ 20.75)!

Eighteenth day

EIGHTEENTH DAY: Bergen - HONEFØSS
MON 12/08 (50 km from Oslo)
E 'was our first day almost completely wet. We wake up in a hotel with the sound of rain (and certainly was not a pleasant good morning), but when we returned to the center to make the last rounds (and the last photo before leaving the city) of rain we have got rather more, Time seemed to have definitely challenged, however, seemed to emphasize that as we left Bergen (another difficult because invariably wrong road, we are inevitably in the city to correct the error and once we even had to pay the toll entrance 10 NOK), we were chased by enormous Nuvoloni blacks who have also started to download a very strong rain does not always but almost always read by two of the afternoon at half past seven in the evening, when we stopped at a campsite HONEFØSS, about fifty kilometers from Oslo. In short, not bad, but it must be said that until now there was almost always accompanied the sun, which for a trip to Scandinavia is nothing but a welcome but not very popular option.
In hytte tonight we repeated the experience of grilled fish and then we spent our time with the hair dryer to dry wet clothes, since the heating went but she was out of service.

Nineteenth day

NINETEENTH DAY: HONEFØSS - Oslo - Hirtshals
MAR 13/08
So now we come to the Scandinavian capitals that were charged to visit. Last but not least it is said, but in our case that would not be appropriate because Oslo is the city that the three least liked. Oh dear, not that it is not bad, but we arrived at ten and one quarter of the morning at half past seven in the evening we took the ferry to Denmark and the time available to us was more than enough to see everything that was worthy of be seen.
Oslo also has its commercial and pedestrian street (Karl Johans Gata), which is much short of Storget Copenhagen or even more pedestrian areas of Stockholm, has a castle guarded by royal guards, his cathedral, very simple outside but much more luxurious inside, also has its fair amount of questionable jumble of old and new style (which we had already found in Stockholm), and so, for example, the futuristic building of the piers are dell'Akker Brygge Akerhus Festning next to the Renaissance. Some merit but we give him is a city rich in museums (we visited one of Eduard Munch and I must say that the true vision of the famous Grido I was really excited) and packed full of parks, which demonstrates the importance by nature in the Norwegian mentality.
At half past seven we embarked for Denmark (Hirtshals to arrive tomorrow morning at eight) with at least 1520 NOK in the portfolio (€ 206.24) since we were forced to take a cab, but perhaps it's better this way because he has the chance to sleep tomorrow we will be safely complete the form to pull as much as possible and get as far away as possible. Mario's intention is to arrive in mid-Germany, but I have a little 'too much ... ... For now buonanotte we already lying in the cabin to be played after the slot machine the last NOK in our possession ... needless to say that we lost.
• P.S. a note of demerit for Color Line in which we are ferry: I think it is the only shipping company that does not give any priority to the motion of embarkation (and therefore discharge): in fact we were the last to go up along with a cyclist, and so tomorrow we will have to restart and sorbitol all the exhaust gases of the dozens of trucks parked in front of us .... Outrageous !!!!!

Twenieth day

TWENTIETH DAY: Hirtshals - GERA
MAR 14/08
At six o'clock a gentle vocettina is output from speaker in the cabin to give us good morning and announced that soon would be reopened the restaurant for breakfast and Tax Free Shop in the recent purchases, but we we turn the other Party for breakfast we had our now affectionate with yogurt and muesli Go Morgen crowns to spend no longer had even a shadow.
Shortly before landing we stood in the garage and a Danish truck driver told us that on the night a man was thrown into the sea from the upper deck, the ship is stopped and a helicopter had to intervene by Denmark to retrieve the body ... we clearly in economicissima our cabin at the bottom of the sea (we were even two floors below the garage!) we have not noticed anything, and we slept like stones. Incident can only say that the rider who had boarded with us has never fallen to recover the bike and it has remained there to wait unnecessarily until at least that we (and we were the last) we left the ship that ... He had been on suicide?
In Denmark we have found an incredible wind that has created many difficulties with the scooter, especially in overtaking, and that we have up in northern Germany.
We made a nice shot of about a thousand kilometers, and for the night we stopped at a motel in GERA, Selva in Thuringia, about 350 km from Monaco. Turned on the TV in the room (and was the first time in Copenhagen), we also understand the highway because we were continually crossed with columns of ambulances and emergency vehicles can while we enjoyed an unexpected sun Norwegian Continental Europe recorded rainfall record and Moldova in Prague in Dresden were el'Elba overflow creating terrible emergencies.