From Oslo to Cape North

A trip on the light, water and .... salmon!
A trip to Norway in the summer does not ever sleep, or almost. Indeed it is difficult to go to bed at midnight when the sun is just down and is still illuminated a day.
We can define this journey as a race overview of the spectacular Norwegian coast that certainly deserve a more detailed visit. The time has forced us to a long trip from Oslo to North Cape along the Norwegian fjords and the Lofoten islands, reaching the main city in Norway, and then fall through the Finnish Lapland and Sweden with a quick visit to Stockholm and again in Oslo for the return to Italy.
In 12 days we covered 6463 km, consumed 391 liters of gasoline and took 12 ferries. A thermal excursion of about 22 º (28 º to 6 º Stockholm and head north) and almost 288 hours of light, a few thousand lakes and a few kilo of salmon.
Cost: about 3800 euros in two.
The images of this trip: stunning scenery, the fjords, lakes, the light of midnight, the strawberries, the limits of speed, reindeer, ferries, salmon and cod, the roerbur.
Top five: Lofoten Islands, and the Helgeland coast, Gerainerfjord, Troolstigveien, Bergen.

Practical Information:
The Ryanair flight from Bergamo to Oslo Torp (Sandenfjord) located approximately 90 km south of Oslo.
Cars with Hertz by prepaid, via subsidized fares of Ryanair. Eye to the limits of speed. In Norway the maximum limit is 80 km / hour.
The trip is expensive and so if you do not want to spend a fortune you must opt for relatively more economic benefits for the accommodation and meals.
We stayed in hostels, bungalows (Hytten, Roerbur, Sious) and three times at the hotel. As for the meals we have preferred buying in supermarkets or markets and sometimes we have benefited from the restaurants.
Better pay by credit card or cash (accepted for any expenses) for a rate more advantageous. Keep some reserve crowns for toll highways (often automated) or for some accommodations in private that they do not accept credit cards.

The trip:
19 July 2008, Saturday
Sandenfjord - Bergen. 545 km, cloudy and rain.
Travel from Bergamo with Ryanair, with a couple of hours we are flying to Oslo Torp airport, withdraw from the Opel Corsa and Hertz 13h00 start.
The first km we plunge into a velvety, green is the dominant color, the temperature is pleasant (18 º -20 º), the presence of water, which will be the dominant character of this holiday, it is noted from the outset with a series of lakes and ponds. Maybe the speed will be limited or almost non-existent traffic, but we feel very relaxed. Then turn the No. 40 through the region of Telemark. Before reaching Geilo you spend a couple of steps around the mountain 1,000 meters high and the temperature begins to drop. Geilo is a ski village surrounded by mountains from here take the No. 7, which will lead us to Bergen. After the passage of Voringfoss it falls between a spectacular gorge and a series of tunnels dug into the rock to the first contact with the fjords on the west coast on the Hardangerfjord you along until the ferry between Brimsen and Bruravik. The ferry system in Norway is extremely efficient and usually expects only a few tens of minutes. The ferry (103 NOK, 10 minutes) takes us on the coast of the fjord. Continue on No. 7 and around Norheimsmund we come across the spectacular waterfall Steinsdalfossen.
We arrived in Bergen on the 24 and just starting to become a little more dark. Housed at Montana Vandrerhjem (Hostel) located with a magnificent view over the city (NOK 750 double).
July 20, 2008, Sunday
Bergen - Bergen - 41 km - 16 º temperature, sun and drizzle in the afternoon.
After a lavish breakfast all'ostello begins sightseeing
Bergen is the second largest city in Norway. In 2000 was the European Capital of Culture. It is also called the gateway to the fjords. Its location in southern Norway, facing the Atlantic ocean, in the westernmost point of the country, makes it the ideal starting point for exploring the vast region of fjords.
Bergen was founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre. It stands on a peninsula, surrounded by seven hills. It was the capital of Norway for two centuries, until the thirteenth. Its history and its culture are essentially linked to the sea.
Bergen, during the Middle Ages was part of the Hanseatic League, the league merchant who met the most important port and commercial city in northern Europe. Bergen was the most rich and powerful of Scandinavia.
His heart is still Torget, the square facing the Vaagen, port. Here it plays the lively, colorful fish market. The Bryggen is the old commercial center of the city at the time of the Hanseatic League. Located on the northern side of the harbor and consists of beautiful colored wooden houses, aligned along the quay. It is the symbol of the city and has been included in the list of World Heritage in 1980. Although the original houses were for the most part destroyed by fire at the beginning of'700, the current structure and maintain the medieval style. Was once the residence of the German merchants, now its narrow streets are home to museums, restaurants and shops.
Among the museums to visit are the Hanseatic Museum, which offers an insight into the lives of medieval merchants, and Bryggens Museum, the archaeological museum where you can see the ancient foundations of the neighborhood.
For lunch, nothing better than a taste of shrimp, marinated salmon, herring and crab in one of the many stalls in the square Torget.
In the afternoon viista to Troldhauhghen, the house where he died on the Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg, which is located near the lake Nordaass, a dozen kilometers from the city center. Now houses a museum dedicated to the artist and a music hall.

21 July 2008, Monday
Bergen - Alesund. 633 km - Temperature 14 º, sunny
The program now provides for the crossing of some of the most famous fjords, a part of the glacier Josteldasbreen and the famous street of Trolls, the Trollstigveien, then there is no time to lose.
Early morning departure from Bergen, take the E39 and pulling straight up on the first ferry on the Sognefjord to Oppedal (NOK 121), trying not to take ourselves too much from the urge to photograph landscapes that occur immediately breathtaking. We continue on the E39 from the opposite side of the Sognefjord and Byrkjelo deviamo on 60 in the direction of Olden and loen to go into the glacial valleys Josteldasbreen. We opt for the Kjendalsbreen which is accessed by loen, where a road about 20 km leads up the glacial tongue, a short hike of 1 hour. The landscape is beautiful and the glacial lakes have a water color of jade. Loen back to reach the 15 to Stryn and then take the 63 in the direction Gerainger. A Dalnibba (1500 meters high) you should have a spectacular view of the Gerainger, but we are completely surrounded by clouds, which thins out only a few hundred meters below offer a spectacular view. The 63 climbs back on the other side of the fjord, offering spectacular views of others. Reached the ferry Eidsdal (78 NOK), the cross Nordalsfjord.

 

From Trollstigen to Lofoten islands

Step towards the atmosphere are from Trolls and not too surprised to see us get some little man with the nose long pigtail and four fingers per hand, we are surrounded by clouds and can only hear the noise of the waterfalls that crash a few hundred meters more below. After a bend on the clouds Trollstigveien thins out and gives you the performance of this winding road dotted with impressive waterfalls. Along the way various trolls we observe from above the rocks, it must be exposed to the sun and you are petrified. Alesund reach around 22, with satiated eyes of landscapes and space never ending. During the course scorpacciata of strawberries and cherries and clearly the inevitable salmon. Alesund to stay at the hostel, which offers us an apartment near the sea (750 NOK).

22 July 2008, Tuesday
Alesund - Trondheim - Levanger, 350 km temperature 12 º, sunny and cloudy
In the morning visit of the old town of Alesund, with its Art Nouveau buildings rebuilt with the support of William II, after it had been completely destroyed by fire in 1904. Surely not to be missed is the view of the city from the hill dell'AKSLA acui is connected by an endless stairway or much more comfortable with a course of a couple of kilometers by car.
From Alesund continue on the E39 in the direction of Trondheim, 2 ferries on the route, the first to Vestres (137 NOK) and the second to Kanestraum (98 NOK), then you must pay the toll on the bridge to Giemnes and some stretches of motorway in the vicinity Trondheim where you can launch up to 90 km per hour, on the "highway" is a single lane.
Come to visit Trondheim Nidaros Cathedral, the largest medieval building in Scandinavia and pilgrimage of Norwegian as here, was martyred in 1030 King Olav the Holy.
Do not miss the charming district of Bakklandet which is accessed by crossing the historic bridge Gamle Bybro.
In Trondheim traveling northward must choose between the spectacular coastal road (Kystriksveien) more expensive and slow (6 ferries) and the way Arctic faster and direct. We opt for the coastal road and not regret it! Then we change our initial stay at Trondheim and continuing for a hundred kilometers north, to find a hut 21h30 (Hytten) in a camp close to Levanger (450 NOK). Lunch and dinner with the usual salmon, cheese and prosciuttini purchased SPAR and clearly to the inevitable strawberries.

23 July 2008, Wednesday
Levanger - Hals (Føroya), 565 km ¸ 14 º temperature, rain
You riveglia with a slight drizzle. After leaving the Steinkjer E6 road (Arctic) to take the road 17 or Atlantic. The first ferry from Holm to Vennesund (98 NOK), approximately 220 km from Steikjer, we retrieve the guidance of Kystriksveien, a free booklet containing all the information you need to take the Atlantic route, accommodations, campgrounds, attractions, schedules of ferries, etc. .. So enter dell'Helgeland in the region, a series of islands and peninsulas with mountains to the sea and breathtaking views. Unfortunately the day uggiosa and low clouds will not allow us to exploit fully the beauty of the landscape. The day continues with an up and down continuously from the ferry. After 64 km we reach the second ferry from Horn to Andalsvag (90 NOK) 20 minutes after just 17 km from the third ferry Forvik a Tjotta (162 NOK) forces us to almost 2 hours of waiting. This ferry is smaller for the other because of the deep seabed, and also not the route is approximately one hour. Considering that we are down to the last ferry from the previous year we were in a long column and the result has been a waiting a couple of hours.
71 km on Sandnessjøen lead us to the fourth ferry between Levang and Nesna (109 NOK) 25 minutes. From nesna 91 km of 17 leading to Killboghamm where we arrive shortly after the departure of the second ferry, we should wait until the last ferry at 21h30 which will lead us in about an hour and fifteen to Jektvik (168 NOK). This ferry will pass the Arctic Circle, the landscape is striking seem to navigate the high peaks of the Alps while waiting for the ferry to Killboghamm consult the guidance of the street Atlantic telephone to book a camara to Hals, immediately after 'last ferry from Agskardet a Føroya (78 NOK) 15 minutes. Kvittbrygge place to find a set of roerbur for fishermen. The stretch between Jektvik and Agskardet (28 km) is probably among the most spectacular of the entire route. Unfortunately we do not have enough time for a hike on the glacier Svartisen, the most extensive in Norway and the most at low level in Europe. Agskardet to expect the last ferry of 0h15 in the company of a group of gulls that rest on the pier. The light is still good and allows you to take pictures without flash. We arrive at roerbur of Kvittbrygge to 00h30, to expect that a fox is in the vicinity of the huts. The accommodation is really nice (600 NOK).
24 July 2008, Thursday
Hals (Føroya) - Reine (Lofoten), 240 km, temperature 13 º, rain
Awakening with the usual drizzle and what better in a home for fishermen that a breakfast of raw herring marinated in lemon? A true delight.
The route of today provides the final stretch of the road to Atlantic Bodo. The clouds that blend with the sea create a mysterious atmosphere and fairytale. During the summer there are 6 daily connections between Bodo and Moskenes the Lofoten Islands. We arrive in Bodø to 14 and we put ourselves in line for the ferry of the 15th The crossing takes about 4 hours and the cost of a car for 2 passengers is 716 NOK. According to the Lonely Planet way more suggestive of Lofoten Reine and is probably not mistaken. We head towards Queen to find accommodation for the night, as the Queen is the usual indication Hytten with a phone call and find a room in a Roerbur at a position that justifies the price a bit more expensive than usual (800 NOK). Evening visit to the village of A, with the usual drizzle that accompanies us now for three days. The forecasts provide an improvement for tomorrow, hopefully! Dinner at a restaurant Sørvågen Holmen where we have the honor to experience the languages of breaded cod, a local delicacy that does not leave us very excited, very best shrimp scampi and cod to the plate.

From Lofoten islands to Cape North, passing into Finland

25 July 2008, Friday
Reine (Lofoten) - Harstad, 385 km, temperature 14 º, with cloudy spells.
The morning gives us a fantastic rainbow just outside the window rourbur, never seen a rainbow that starts so close to us, is indeed a summit on the boat moored in the harbor below and the other summit ends on the pier below the house. We stand up in a hurry not to miss this fabulous show on Lofoten, the rain continues, but there are some spells that color the landscape. We return for breakfast and we start to 10h45. The most impressive and scenic Lofoten is probably the one between A, the far southern tip of the island and Reine Moskenes. Let Moskenes move on Vestvågøy, where we leave the E10 for an overview of the most diverting 815th Arrived on the island of Austvagoy take a detour right onto 816, a delightful path leads us to the beautiful and lively village of Henningsvar. Snack cake with blueberries in a bar and we continue to Cereria Svolvær, after which the enchanting villages visited in the morning we left a little disappointed. A long underwater tunnel, opened recently, allow us to leave the Lofoten and go on Hinnoya belongs to the Versteralen. Harstad Raggiungiao then that will be our stop for tonight. Overnight all'ostello Harstad Verderheim (590 NOK).

26 July 2008, Saturday
Harstad - Diupvik (Lyngenfjord) 520 km, temperature 13 º, the sun.
From Harstad regained Arctic E6 road about fifty miles north of Narvik. Then we head to Tromso, visit to the polar museum, stroll in the city center and lunch at the pub Skarven to enjoy the excellent beer Mack. Exit of Tromso, a small distraction, and we do "photograph" by one of the many sensors of speed, with the limit of 50 were traveling at 60, who knows if there will come a fine? We continue north and arrive Lyngenfjord seek accommodation for the night. As always, and find no problem in the first place that we call Hytten (500 NOK, Lill Kristin Berg and Jens Simonsen, tel 91815695). We are Djupvik the Lyngen fjord, and facing the Lyngen Alps, with its glaciers clearly visible. There seems to enter into a fable, the Hytten we found for the night is a capannna of more than 100 years that was used as a sauna and then as a school, time seems to become home of trolls and everything is done to measure trolls, including doors that do not exceed one meter and fifty, the hut is nestled in the green near the sea with an enviable view of the Lyngen Alps. Dinner on the terrace, despite the 8 degrees. The boy paffuttello who has rented the hut also gives us a package of coffee, a little heat for the evening. Midnight blue and the sky has just hidden the sun. However illuminated a day. We put our masks to create a little bit of darkness and we fell asleep.

27 July 2008, Sunday
Diupvik (Lyngenfjord) - Skarvag (North Cape) 545 km, temperature 8 º, overcast.
We leave to join the Nordland in Finnmark, the extreme northern region of Norway. Despite the road Arctic by several hundred kilometers there are signs of concern for the reindeer and moose, we did not cross again, but suddenly this is the first group of reindeer just across the street and from here onwards not leave this up to more southern Sweden. For the moose will have to wait a bit. High stop for lunch at the "Han Steike". Alta is a town completely anonymous with a modern city completely rebuilt after the destruction of the Second World War.
The Nordkapptunnelen (fee NOK 192), rising to a depth of 212 meters below sea level leads us on Magaroya is located where the North Cape. Find a place in the camp hut Kirkeporten a Skarsvag just 12 km from North Cape.
At about 20h00 we depart to the legendary North Cape, are the last days you can still see the midnight sun, but time does not promise anything good, just the road begins to rise, we are surrounded by increasingly dense clouds. The cartel of the North Cape visibility is limited to a maximum of 30 meters. For the moment, then nothing midnight sun, it only remains to wait and see if the weather improves. Towards midnight the clouds down to the sea and we are completely surrounded by a veil wet, better go to bed and wait for the next day.
28 July 2008, Monday
Skarvag (North Cape) - Rovaniemi (Finland) 735 km, temperature 8 °, cloudy, sun.
Risveglio always surrounded by the blanket of clouds, the view over the cliffs at Cape North will be for the next. We decided then to leave to the south, since most North can not, or you can reach the true northernmost point of Europe, which strangely is not North Cape, but another leader within walking distance with a 9 km trek . Abandon the island of Magaroya, again, the toll for the tunnel and many groups of reindeer on the road. The sun begins to appear Laknes toward the southern tip of the Gulf of Porsangen. We wonder if North Cape is a will all spells, but girandoci north, large Nuvoloni on the horizon seem to give us the answer. We continue on the E6 to Karasjok, where leave to point towards the Finnish border. In the town of Karasjok Lapp visit the museum, although it will be far more interesting to visit the museum in Inari Sami of Finland. We are now in Finnish Lapland, the clouds have completely disappeared, the speed limit is increased to 100 km per hour, the long straight wavy bordered by lakes and the ubiquitous reindeer allow us to quickly reach Inari, located on the lake where we visit Anar l ' Sami interesting museum. Will then continue to Rovaniemi, our destination for today. A few km before arriving in Rovaniemi you cross the Arctic Circle or "napapiiri" in Finnish and is located right here Santa Klaus village, the famous village of Santa Claus. It is now 23h00 and the stroll in the square in front of the office of Santa Claus from which you spread Christmas melodies. Rovaniemi reach and find a room at City Hotel (70 euro) in the heart of Rovaniemi. After the prohibitive prices in Norway, Finland seems to us a country economicissimo.

From Rovaniemi (Fin) to Oslo via Stockholm

29 July 2008, Tuesday
Rovaniemi (Finland) - Stockholm 1200 km, temperature 19 º, serene.
We should leave immediately for the 1200 Stockholm recital km that separate us, but the curiosity of a visit to Santa Klaus Village is more powerful than us, and then head for the north and we're back to the village. Now all the structures are open, the mail with a letterine Tuttti of the children from the world, the office of Santa Claus, the path a bit gloomy in the polar night and dulcis in fundo at the main, we are faced with Dad Christmas, this just not the expected. Let the reminiscences of childhood and we strive towards Stockholm. A long path between the lakes and pine forests. We are along the Baltic Sea, the temperature is raised significantly, we are now around 20 degrees, the Swedish children splash in the sea. The most interesting part of the E $ is surely the one between Örnsköldsvik and Sundsvall. Around 22 fire-red sunsets. Stockholm to reach the 23 and in the blink of an eye is the Haga Kristineberg Hotel (850 SEK), which we had booked via the Internet.

30 July 2008, Wednesday
Stockholm - Sandenfjord, 700 km, temperature 24 º, serene.
Haga Kristineberg The hotel is a good solution for a visit to Stockholm, it is located 100 meters from the metro in about 10 minutes door in the center of the city. Morning and early afternoon devoted to a visit to Stockholm, the center Sorico, the Skeppet, the royal palace, Riddarholmen, the City Hall. Lunch in a restaurant Torget square, a beautiful fillet of reindeer.
Around 16 well leave Stockholm with 28 degrees of temperature, reaching Oslo, we prefer to approach as much as possible at Sandenfjord. The last km in Sweden give us an encounter with a moose, at least after so many signs of danger moose crossing, at least one case we have seen.
Sandenfjord to arrive at the 24 and we accommodated for the night in the Motel (950 NOK) near the airport (4 km).

31 July 2008, Thursday
Sandenfjord - Airport - Bergamo, 4 km, temperature 22 º, serene.
Alarm clock with calm, and by breakfast at the airport for the flight to Bergamo