New Year's day in Lisbon. Visiting Portugal..

There were several weeks that I hoped to have an hour free to write my (our!) Impressions of travel. Mi presento: mi chiamo Paolo Galgani, architect and lover of modern architecture (I can assure you that those things do not always coincide ... indeed!) And travel (this passion conveyed by Antonella, my wife of 8 years, traveling companion and the victim predestined of my "tour de force" through the modern architecture of Europe).
Our trips always start with a few months in advance. A long and slow preparation to plan your trip, organize routes, public transport study of the place (which then are always more efficient than the Italians) and especially to trace the architecture to visit the area (bad habit of them all, but all the magazines is not to ever put the address).
In these internet shows, day after day, a real manna from heaven.
Once resolved these small problemini ... si parte!

 

1st day

8.00 hours the car park near the airport. It 'the first time I went to the airport by car and can assure you that there is a whole other story than the public (I could not more!). It is not the first time, however, that arriving well in advance (the airplane part to 12.20) because I really like the atmosphere of the airports so that we spend their days.
The airline is TAP Portugal! So far I had traveled with the "Low-cost" and the neighbor tells me that the lines of the flag are the best I face a lot.
However arrives 12.00, up 12.20 and the aircraft, on time, it takes off!
Even the arrival in Lisbon is accurate to 15.15 local time (in Portugal greenwich the time of one hour ahead of us). The landing is quiet, the weather is good, and makes a Drizzle hot to die. We took the bags in front of the arrivals to wait for the aereobus center and reaches the first cheat. Climb on board el'autista us directly one day to 3 euros and can be found on the Internet or other types of cheapest ticket (only served to us from the airport to go!).
The first impression that the city makes us out of it is quite positive, and the neighborhoods are similar to those in Italy, but not chaotic like ours, (especially for what concerns the traffic) even if all the guides says contrary.
We arrive at our hotel, the "Marques de Sa" in av. Miguel Bombarda, 130 (just behind the museum Galouste Gulbenkiam), not just in the center, but perfectly connected with subway and bus. The hotel, consigliatoci from our agency is great (a three star hotel that looks like a four star) with a modern and excellent service). Our room is the last (9th) floor. Unfortunate that the output port on the balcony is closed because there would be an excellent view.
Our impressions about the end here because the time spent in that room is just for sleeping.
It is now dark, but we decide, however, to dive straight into the city center. Choose to take the bus to take advantage, at least in part, to the famous ticket above. The stop is a few hundred meters from the hotel directly opposite the shopping center "El Corte Ingles". After a few stops down in front of the station of Rossio in Praca Dom Pedro IV in the heart of Lisbon.
So I had studied maps of the city, instead of having a moment of disorientation, I had the impression that they already have. E 'was easy to navigate the streets of the Baixa (Rua Augusta, Rua Aurea) until you reach the stately Praca do Comercio, the main square of Lisbon which is surrounded on three sides by buildings ministerial eighteenth and in the fourth, which overlooks the river Tejo . It had been built an incredible Christmas tree lights were about 35 m high by mounting the stage for the feast of December 31.
Before you decide to come visit the Chiado, the famous district destroyed by fire and rebuilt by Italian nell'1986 Portuguese Alvaro Siza. From 0 to 10 to me like Siza 1 at most 1.5 but I have to admit that the recovery of destroyed buildings is absolutely perfect with the result that it has obtained a street (Rua do Carmo) elegant and modern, but respectful of the architectural tradition of the city . Rua Garret Also, the shopping street and shops, is very beautiful even if chaotic, and above all (sigh!) Crossed by noisy and stinking cars. In the highest part of the district appears to us the famous and beautiful cafe "A Brasileira" overflowing inside and outdoor seating. The tourists are queuing up to take the photograph at a small table, a must with the poet Fernando Pessoa: after some resistance even gave my wife and we are submitting to the clicks of practice. In this last part the Chiado appears in all its beauty, giving its best and offering for what it truly is: the place of "struscio" of Lisbon.
Are 20.00, at the stomach, only two sandwiches consumed quickly at the bar of Fiumicino and hunger is felt. We decide to find a restaurant and then descend to the new Baixa where, according to the tourists "met" on the internet, there are several interesting local and affordable. After some confusion we choose the pubblicizzatissimo "A Covalense" in Rua de Correiros, entirely pedestrian street parallel to Rua Augusta. The restaurant is small (maximum 20 places) and it looks like our restaurants, the service is good and the waiters friendly, we take the appetizer of cheese (they led him here and not take us to discard it after), a de Arroz marisco ( I!) and chicken baked with potatoes (my wife hates the fish!). My scope, which is a risotto ai frutti mare, is delicious and plentiful (enough for 4 people). In the end we pay 22 euro: something unthinkable in Italy even in the worst tavern!
Tired and satisfied we decide to take the bus to the hotel: the first day comes to an end.

2nd day

7:00 am Wake up call and breakfast buffet in the restaurant (excellent).
Today, as the first day for excursions, we decide to go to Belem also because, being Sunday, museums allow free entry.
Take the metro to the center and then, from Praca do Commercio, 15 tram to Belem.
Entrance to metro, the first from what we have come, is truly unique, with us entering hundreds of immigrants of color who were probably also go into their heart. We are into the underground through a crowd of blacks and only this to us, dirty white racists and prejudiced, it creates a certain apprehension. It all ends with one of them that kindly help us to make a subscription (7 colinas the cheapest in Lisbon) to the automatic box (and we thought that we wanted to eat ... .!!!).
Around 9.00 we arrive at Belem. The first stop is the famous monastery from where Vasco da Gama set out to discover new worlds. A nice even our discovery: that of the splendid style manuelino that adorns the church and the extraordinary cloisters where we have more than we should. Fortunately, the idea of coming here pretty soon gives us a hand. In practice, when we decide to leave are entering the complex at least 1000-2000 people (individual tourists and groups together): only an hour late and we would have found in the middle of a Bolgia. We hasten to reach the next stage, the "dos Pedrao descobrimentos", a monument dedicated to the Portuguese navigators and their discoveries, reported in all the guidebooks, but we made no impression. We then proceed directly to the Tower of Belem, a fortress defensive post in the middle of the mouth of the Tejo and today, with the development of the city, few meters from the shore. Unlike the dull Pedrao, the tower, also in style manuelino, is extraordinary. The visit and admire the enthusiastic and happy despite long traipsing down that has cost us achieve it. The fourth stage of the morning is the "Cultural Center of Belem" designed by Arch. Vittorio Gregotti and built in 1986 at the entrance of Portugal into the European community. I must preface that I do not like anything Gregotti, but this time the architect has surpassed himself making an interesting building and well worth a visit (well-cladding stone pink Portugal). The last stage, but not least is the museum of carriages for the content, but especially for the building that contains it. At approaching the tram passing in front of the legendary pastries belem but also because of the mileage we can not row your enjoying its delicious (it will be for next time!).
The reason, in fact, was that we hurry, the end of December the days are short and I had a great desire to achieve what for me was the main goal of this trip: the area of Expo 98. To get there take the Red Line subway which crosses some beautiful stations that each deserve a specific survey, we reach the end of the line where there is the extraordinary part of the Eastern Railway Station. Santiago Calatrava.
Imposing, elegant, majestic, not wasting the adjectives for which this is surely the most beautiful work of modern architecture in Lisbon. We pass in front, coming out of the subway, to go in-Expò itself, intends to return later.
The area is huge for a single afternoon and then try to draw a path that makes us see as much as possible in the shortest time.
We pass in front of the former Portuguese pavilion Siza (bad!), To the "Vodafone" in A. Burmester coat with metal panels that seem to rotate on themselves, the giant "Oceanario Lisbon" the architect. American P. Chermayeff, at the Teatro "Luis de Camoes" of the arch. Fei and go up, the "hall of knowledge of the seas" by Carrilho de Graca, the "Atlantic Pavilion" by R. Cruz and SOM that looks like a spaceship just landed, to the wonderful "fair Lisbon Arch of Barreiros Ferreira and Franca Doria (which I find to have been built by Italian companies with Italian technology), the tower" Vasco da Gama "in Skidmore. Owings & Merrill dell'ovovia terminus through the area, to its center study English Building Design Partnership with the two towers horned "Sao Gabriel", 5 star Hotel Tivoli L. Soares and T. Pinto.
I must say, however, that attention and our curiosity is drawn to small details that we meet like the fountains in the shape of a volcano that every tot. minutes water exploding upward with great joy of the children (and our!), the cascade of water near the aquarium, the "jardins de agua" and especially the ovovia that carries you up the tower by Vasco Gama making you see the whole area from above.
Fascinated by the beauty of Expo notice that there are now 16.00, the lunch has grown from a little ', and the hungry are felt. Enter the mammoth shopping mall Vasco da Gama "in search of a restaurant (we read out that there is also a local Italian cuisine), but unfortunately is closed and we must be satisfied with the infamous McDonald! Consoles us with a huge chain gelatone German "Hagen Daz" (one only because my wife always eats a little 'of mine!). left we have a beautiful sunset and take advantage to take some photos of the east of the station before it is too late. Around 19.00 we decide to return to the hotel to prepare the night of the year.
At 10 we are in the center, is swarming with people, the atmosphere is cheerful. It 'full of chioschetti of roast chestnuts, some guys distribute raisins (they say that good luck!): I have eaten, regardless, because it was very good. Praca do come to market at half full, but it continues to reach people. At 11.00 the concert begins with ciofeche of Portuguese singers who are probably here for at least a star to see girls who tear their hair and sing songs from memory, unfortunately, in the square there are no more than two kiosks beer with files in kilometers and then despite the thirst renounce. At midnight began the most interesting part of the show: fireworks exceptional lasting longer than 30 minutes. At the end when we decide to move to reach the metro we see that the square has become full all'inverosimile. Move is almost impossible to reach the metro Chiado is the least dangerous because of the crowd in the streets adjacent. We decide to go the other side, to stop "Cais de Sodré and we get them. I am not telling the chaos inside the tube back at this and just because the night of the public transportation worked only up to 1, 00 (hallucinatory !!!). Night to forget or almost especially when compared to the super organization of last New Year's Eve in Vienna.

3rd day

7:00 am alarm and usual breakfast. The weather is strange, there is fog padana val style and is all wet, but by a hot die.
Today we decide to dedicate ourselves to the center and then we head towards the elevador justa St., go up, from above you can enjoy a tremendous view to the Baixa, which lie just below us, and to other hills in the historic center. Reach Largo do Carmo passing next to the ruins of the medieval monastery, admire the presidential palace and then we are moving towards the barrio alto nova from Rua de Trindade. So we reach the Miradouro Sao pedro de alcantara: from here you can enjoy a magnificent view even if today is partially obscured by fog. We wander the narrow streets typical of the barrio alto (seems to be in deprived Spaniards in Naples) and we arrive at Piazza Luis De Camoes.
From here we decide to take the legendary tram 28 to visit the typical district of Lisbon, the Alfama.
Descend in front of the Miradouro Santa Luzia, but the view of the city is blocked off by the fog here that has not yet raised enough.
Then take the road to the Castelo S. Jorge crossing streets and squares really features: Rua of espirito santo, santa cruz de Rua do castelo, Rua das colinas, Rua das flores de santa cruz are only some of which recall the name of their houses with colorful clothes laid out, the elderly playing cards at the door of the door.
We come to visit the castle walls where you can enjoy a beautiful panorama. It 'full of tourists (Italians) we do a nice walk through the ruins and we enjoy a beautiful sun. The morning runs quiet, but at some point we decide to descend on foot to the baixa. During the journey we visit the medieval Cathedral of Lisbon, rather clumsy and ugly, while nearby is the beautiful church of St. Anthony of Padua who visit for the happiness of my wife.
The first day of the year, with Lisbon full of tourists, almost everything is closed. Unable to return to the restaurant the first evening we opt for a room near the restaurant "A portas" in Rua de Correiros. I must say that in this case we found very good: grilled squid, potatoes and beer for me, roast beef served with my wife for 18 euros in total.
Having visited almost the most important things (to be honest we would have liked to make a trip to Cascais, Sintra, Cabo da roca etc. But 4 days is too short to go around Lisbon) decide to make a trip very relaxed to see the modern lighthouse designed by Arch. Portuguese G. Sousa Byrne at the mouth of the Tejo. Take back the tram 15, beyond the district of Belem, where we were the day before, and go off at Algés. We still expect a good traipsing down to the mouth of the River. During the walk we see to be the only tourists in this area certainly off to Lisbon, but very characteristic with a beautiful beach where, because of public holiday and the weather almost summer, many local authorities were taking the sun. Unfortunately when we arrived that the lighthouse is at least another km of road and then we should admire it from afar during the sunset at the ocean (which romantic!) And then turn the heels and take the road return. Let us return, then, in the city center.
Not having much choice in the evening we return to the same restaurant lunch (price / quality excellent). Salmon and potatoes for me (and a superbock course) meat and side dish in the oven for my wife. Back 18 in all,
After dinner, tired and satolli, we return at the next day it again (sigh!)

4th day

Alarm at 8.00 and the usual breakfast. Prepare your luggage: unfortunately we have to leave. We do not want so early away from Lisbon and would like to visit another thousand characteristic corners of the city that for the short time available, we have not seen.
The plane later part, to 14.20, and the airport is nearby. We decided to delay as possible and see you choosing to do a last walk around the hotel and more precisely in the nearby Praca do Duque de Saldanha, where there is an office building by Ricardo Bofill, the latest example of rationalist architecture of vomitevole which is capable arch. Catalan and who does not deserve even a picture.
Back at the hotel, pick up the suitcases, the sorbate us traipsing down to the stop dell'aereobus, suffer again the robbery of 3 euros per ticket for 6-7 km and reach, well in advance, to departure.
The Lisbon airport is very large and very well organized (in addition to being of our most beautiful) and, despite the thousands of people lined up for the "check-in, quickly deliver the bags and we head to board . We note with disapproval that the air Direct TAP in various European capitals are all brand new direct while in Rome we will have to take us is old and scaciolato ... ... and in fact during the return journey shows all his years and his ailments (never more, never again, hooray the "low-cost" !!!).
Landed at Fiumicino airport, collect your luggage. We come to take the van and accompany us to the parking lot where we expect our car: a service with the flakes do not want to believe our eyes because we were used to drag our suitcases through the notorious public transport Romans.
At 19.00 we leave for home, but it is already so much nostalgia of our unforgettable trip Lisbon ... goodbye!