Romania: Maramures, Bucovina,Transylvania and not only...

Where: Romania - Baia Mare, Surdesti, Plopis, Harnicesti, Budesti, Sapanta, Sighetu marmatiei, Barsana, Calinesti, Ieud, Rozavlea, Viseu de Sus, Moldovita, Sucevita, Humor, Voronet, Rasca, Agapia, Piatra Neamt, Gole di Bicaz, Lacu Rosu, Lazarea, Odorheiu Secuiesc, Targu Mures, Sighisoara, Viscri, Brasov, Bran, Rasnov, Sinaia, Busteni, Bucuresti, Horezu, Curtea de Arges, Transfagarasan, Sibiu, Alba Julia, Hunedoara.

When: dal 02 al 20 agosto 2008
How: by car
Budget: < 1000 €/each

More infos at:
www.gnothisauton.it/romania2008/

 

Brescia - Budapest

Departure at 05:30, woke up at 05:00. The first newsletter communicates traffic queue at 13 km barrier of Mestre, diverted to Austria. In Villach, we find many bikes, maybe a rally, finally we take the highway going from Graz and Klagenfurt just after we meet with such a deluge of hail. Many cars stop at the side of the road, crossed a broken tree fell in the middle of the road and proceed slowly. Beautiful weather and alternate.
Today is the day the Austro-German exodus, the parking area is stocked and the queue at the petrol station is a snake more than 100 meters. Smooth up in Vienna, but shortly after taking the motorway for Hungary we come across a two-hour queue at the border due to the high volume of traffic, many cars of emigrants returning to native Hungarian and Romanian license plates are loaded unlikely. After more than two hours we find that the tail is due to the need to purchase a "vignette" for the motorway to the Hungarian border because they are open only two ports that do not control but shortly afterwards for all stop to buy fuel and reducing the cartoons the traffic lanes from three to one. The Hungarian police located after 300 meters tries in vain to slide the traffic more smoothly. Rain again, some slowdowns, we can also make us the "cartoons" after a few km. We arrive in Budapest at 21:20 exhausted and we take refuge in the hostel, a university dormitory converted into a hostel for the summer (Hostel Universitas). E 'run by students who carry out the tasks of the usual reception with the result that the formalities it takes twice as long. We are close to the Danube and in arriving we noticed a lot of music venues, but after 16 hours of car I'll jump in bed.

Baia Mare

About 08:30 am: We check out the car and we strive towards Romania. We have to go through Budapest, and a pair of bridges closed and some new roads, complicating life in leaving town. Today we held the Grand Prix of Formula 1 and the traffic is backed up to the outputs of the Hungaroring circuit. We continue, the Hungarian landscape is varied, hills and plains alternate and driving is a pleasure. The highway stops abruptly ending in a small town devastated by the traffic, the road to the border with Romania is now very uneven. At the border we are only controlled by the Hungarian customs officers, who control the identity documents and more meticulously than the car. The border Romena is deserted, it seems almost abandoned, following the road is narrow and more bumpy. Suddenly a level crossing without warning signs. The best way, we encounter the first country (Valea Mihai him), looks like a construction site, dilapidated houses, paved road in the middle with holes that seem craters, not a bell'impatto. Wagons loaded with hay pulled by horses occupy the road. Dozens of young and old vendors stationed along the road just outside the village selling watermelons, melons, potatoes and some mushrooms. You meet a lot of hay wagons carrying mainly, but also scrap metal.
The roads are mostly crumbling, the cars are old Romanian lens while the rare new run quickly disrespectful of the limits from the towns, though they are all no longer than 50 km / h in the countries. Along the way we see on many lampposts some storks' nests, and shortly after we meet them too, and storks. We cross the city of Satu Mare, ugly, gray, "cement" the road is even worse than before, a succession of valleys and craters. Through other small countries, we find an ATM and finally touch the local currency. We hear of religious music from a speaker nearby, we enter the courtyard, next to a small police station, there is surprisingly a small wooden church still under construction from which comes the music. We come then to Baia Mare, the capital of the Maramures region important since ancient times for its rich mineral and staying at Pensiunea Marioara (pensiunea_marioara (at) yahoo.com), located in the city center. It 'Sunday, the shops are closed, only Kaufland (a chain of department stores) and bars are open. We visit the tower, a symbol of the city, the only surviving part of the old St. Stephen's Cathedral, in front of the church but not much of a girlfriend, walking around the main square. E 'last night that the son did not touch food, and 4 in the afternoon so we go to the Kaufland. That's nice, fill the bags with only 8 euro. Facing the Kaufland there is a church still under construction, we go through on the wooden walkways. The interior is decorated with paintings by the colors very bright, in stark contrast to the austere appearance. Nearby, a church built entirely of reinforced concrete and with a bizarre architecture, is opposed to this latest one. Return to the board, a little 'relaxation, we program the next day and have dinner with herring and cheese.

Hearty breakfast cooked by Maria, salami, cheese, tomatoes, bread and watery coffee. Leaving from Baia Mare we encounter the usual watermelon sellers.
Surdesti,
The first wooden church that we visit, built in 1721 dedicated to the Archangel Michael and Gabriel is the highest of all, 72 mt. It can be reached via a narrow road when a lady parked just around the sixty out of the house and equipped with a key it opens the church. Inside seems smaller than it is, the small windows do not allow much light to penetrate, and this creates an intimate atmosphere. We leave a small donation to the lady who refuses, however, and shows us the deposit box where the begging. We continue visiting the outside, around the church is a cemetery with graves disordered half reversed. Some farmers are mowing the grass in the near field, attack speech, but since I speak only Romanian it is quite difficult. I can only figure out who were interested to know how much does a lawn mower engine in Italy, but having no idea I can not answer them anyway and I say "very" and laugh, perhaps to understand that it is better to mow they spend so much money. Bah! Let's go back to the car and a girl about 10 years probably has seen us go by car from home is waiting for us, sells handmade necklaces and minerals, we do not accept and welcome.
Ploplis,
shortly after the country Surdesti. Plopis is a small village with dirt roads and the church built in 1796 dedicated to the Holy Archangels this too, perched atop a small hill. It will be inside the most beautiful of all those who visit and already open, we are faithful in prayer and is normally used for all functions. Bay Crossing Sprie famous for its many traditional carved wooden gates of Maramures. They are like a status symbol is, the bigger and more elabolato and it will be important and rich family who lived in that house.
Harnicesti,
The church dedicated to the birth of the Virgin Mary and built in the seventeenth century can be reached via a path behind the elementary school, also with a large wooden gate. Unfortunately we are unable to visit her house, is closed.
Budesti,
the church built in 1643 is being restored and it is entirely possible to visit, we make two passes through the town along the dirt road. Will then continue along the road, we meet and Calinesti Sarba countries, the rural beauty that we are experiencing.
Sapinta,
more tourist destinations of all affected so far. We visit the monastery under construction which should become the largest and highest wooden church. We go quietly in the yard with no one to stop us.
We moved to the "merry cemetery", many sellers of handicrafts alongside the entrance to the cemetery. The tombs of the cemetery show a sort of allegorical cartoon / satire on the life of the deceased, this tradition began with a local artist, in 1935, Ioan Stan Patras and had seen the positive feedback from neighbors survives today thanks to a craftsman who has collected the legacy of the promoter. It 's a shame you could not understand what is written on every tombstone. One of the most popular states: "The poison is a clean tuica / that brings tears and laughter / I also brought them / The death has put me under your feet. / Those who love good tuica / How will suffer me / For I have loved the tuica / I died with her hand. (Here lies Holdisa Dumitru, who lived 45 years, died of forced in 1958).
Vadu Izei, retirement is just outside the center. We meet a lot of carts along the road. The guesthouse "Casa Muntean" is very nice and welcoming (consigliata! Casamuntean (at) yahoo.com), we relax, drink a beer under the arbor. We have dinner with a French couple and a family of Poles eat a "Chorba" very tasty with chicken and meatballs and then Tuica. We walk along the village, there is a store that sells everything it also serves as the tavern. Incotriamo a family of peasants returning from work in the fields, have their faces distorted by working alongside her mother in front of his son who holds the reins of the horse that pulls the cart with a load of hay behind the other parent with two children.

Sighetu marmatiei,
important city in northern Maramures near the border with Ukraine. We visit the center, churches of various denominations, the most beautiful in the small center at the main square, Museum of Maramures (input 4 you, ~ € 1.20) recommended to understand the daily life of today and the past in this fascinating region. Sighet has housed 60 to a prison where they were imprisoned political opponents of Communism, the former prison now houses the "Memorial to the Victims of Communism", very interesting (you input 6, ~ 2 €). Overall Sighet can not be said to be a beautiful city, is messy and far from glamorous, but the Memorial Museum of Maramures and certainly worth the visit.
Calinesti,
in 1630 the church built of wood is reached after about 1 km of gravel road, definitely worth a visit, is very well preserved and maintained the original appearance over time. The caretaker asks her to open up the door 5, there is little, but it is much than the usual rates.
Along the road we see a small wooden church, but we struggle to find the entrance, you must pass on the help of a private home to achieve it through a series of steps. Is closing, but a young guide opens us up anyway.
Vadu Ieuz, the church stands on a small hill near a new church, also surrounded by graves Malten.
Rozavlea, the church is located along the main road, built in 1720 is now being restored both internally and externally, we make a quick visit. Outside of local girls trying to sell us necklaces, but politely declined the invitation.
Ieud,
The church stands on a small hill (entrance 2 lei, ~ € 0.60), built in the mid-seventeenth century, kept inside the famous image of hell, this can also be reached via a dirt road. They are restoring the apse that you can still visit. Along the way elderly women sell textiles and other handicrafts.
Barsana,
just outside the village is the "Manastirea Bârsana" Orthodox convent for nuns kept a wooden church furniture recently still, a small museum of religious icons and other buildings that are modeled on the architecture of wooden churches. The garden is lush and busy nuns who care for them with the help of some girls probably guests.
Continuing to Viseu de Sus through a beautiful hilly landscape, perhaps the most beautiful we have seen so far, we stopped several times to enjoy the view and take some pictures. We see the flood damage a few weeks ago that had affected our visit Maramures, many of the banks of the river were killed and the riverbed is filled with debris. We come to Viseu de Sus, our board, "Pension Danuta", is the "oldest" and the last on the road that runs along the flooded river and the railway station on which are complemented by many other born with tourism train "Mocan ". The bulldozers are still working to secure the levees and the path we are on is new since the previous one has been destroyed by the flood, the fields and courtyards of the houses are still full of mud. The guesthouse is close to the rails where until recently he spent his first "Mocan. The "Mocan" was a narrow-gauge train that winds into the valley along the river and carrying workers from the city to the woods. It was an important center for the timber that came down from the north near the border with Ukraine and served in the region, many furniture manufacturers in the country. Today the train was more of a tourist attraction. Cazare to have dinner in the living room with chicken and appetizers will be explored again for breakfast. We walk along the railway after dinner and see other flood damages, small bridges over streams where the railway passes were seriously damaged, the rails are bent, torn in some places. We meet a man who is still shoveling the earth dragged into his garden with which we have two words, always in Romanian, still scared for what happened but glad that his house was still standing.

Breakfast, mountain pass between the Maramures and Bukovina scenically interesting.
Monastery Moldovita
built by Petru Rares in 1532 to defend against invasions Ottoman (you input 3, ~ 1 €), characteristic of the region of Bucovina monasteries were fortified, enclosed by high defensive walls to protect them from enemy attack. At the center of the church walls with frescoes on the distinctive exterior and interior walls that were used to train at a time when illiteracy was widespread, the inhabitants of the area. We meet the first Italians, even a motorhome tour of noisy Italians. Lunch on the way to Sucevita for only about 8.5 eur in two with a main course, dessert and drinks. Tasting for the first time one of the dishes that we can find then all over Romania, even if done in different ways, tochitura. Monto definitely good!
Monastery Sucevita
(Entry 3 you, ~ 1 €), outside there are a few rides and a food stand, is full of Romanians, we do not understand, however, that party are celebrating. The monastery is situated near the river Sucevita, its construction dates back to 1585 is protected by high walls and tall towers at the corners arise defensive.
The road that runs straight from Humor to Sucevita along the mostly flat landscape. Humor Monastery
(Entry 3 you, ~ 1 €) in 1530 built on the ruins of an earlier building by Petru Rares Voivodship is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. Many street vendors outside selling textiles, furniture and various classic hand-painted eggs, we buy. We also visit the imposing watch tower for defense. Accommodation at the board, rather Cazare, Gheorghe (Gheorghita Maria, Gheorghe-Delia (at) yahoo.com) managed by the frantic lady Maria polite and a bit 'madcap. Unique relaxation area with views over adjacent fields carved into the back of the house with so well in the center of where we have dinner in the company of other guests, a family of French and an elderly couple of Romanians. Tuica drink before the meal as usual in Romania and wine but it is bad, white amber is drinkable, but the red is a new fruity and sweet. Soup with bread dumplings and sausages second with meat, potatoes and vegetables. We spent the evening chatting in Italian-French-Romanian. Around 22 comes the mother of Mrs. Mary home from work in the fields, does not need it financially, but every day in the morning he wakes up early and went to the camps, "as long as it works well for arms works well the mind ", this is his motto, which I confirm, it will have between 75/80 years and takes them very well.

Breakfast on the veranda with the usual starter with the addition of homemade jams and honey, decent coffee. The best of Maramures Bucovina shows, major roads being built, fewer carts, fewer vendors along the streets, selling a few berries. The houses are nearly all in brick and wooden ones are few. In the fields you see cows grazing alone, without guards.
Voronet,
The car park is full of sellers. The Monastery was built in 1488 by Stephen the Great to commemorate the victory of the Battle of Vaslui and saw the 40,000 Moldovans prevail against the 120,000 Ottoman soldiers. The Last Judgement painted exterior is very well preserved, a guide with a group of Spaniards thoroughly explains the allegories of the work and given the similarity of language with the Italian took advantage. Worth a visit (she Input 3, ~ 1 €).
Rasch,
built in 1542 is led now by Orthodox monks, is a popular tourist charmingly serene, Gregorian chants in the background in the garden. We meet two girls who take water from the well they use to water the beautiful flowers of the garden. The church in the center is dedicated to St. Nicholas.
Naemt, very religious, the largest male monastery in Romania, the start of construction dates back to 1370 at the behest of Stefan cel Mare, is now being restored. The atmosphere is gloomy, there are many worshipers. We also visit a small museum of icons, illuminated books and the trees of the press in this wing of the complex. We meet a load cyclists like a donkey that had previously met twice in recent days in Maramures and Bucovina then, congratulations!. We also visit the gift shop opposite the entrance to the monastery located in a beautiful building, but they also do not buy but vin santo.
Agapia,
built by Vasile Lupu Voivode around 1645, the convent run by nuns who live in small houses with beautiful flower gardens located outside the complex (entry 5 her, ~ 1.5 €). It 's all a flower, even here is very religious and pilgrimage, many worshipers. We also visit the small museum of sacred art. Exit buy jam produced by the nuns.
Having been forced to skip the trip by train "Mocan" we are a day ahead of schedule, we look for a board along the way and after having viewed a very distinctive and colorful wooden prefer the one located at the beginning of the road main complete with swimming pool and tennis court. We have dinner with fried vegetables, chicken, potatoes and sweet Mamali (100 plus 30 she her for dinner, around ~ 40 eur for two adults).

Piatra Neamt
very lively city traffic, parking fee by doing a little 'hard to find coins for the meter. At the supermarket "Kangaroo" buy breakfast: two bad croissants and yogurt that we eat at the park in downtown. Visit the old town, beautiful, there is a church that seems a warehouse, but dark and messy, crowded with worshipers. Visit the art gallery, there is an interesting author of which I am, however, marked the name. The ethnographic museum is made up of only four stranze (entry 3 you, ~ 1 €), there is the reconstruction of a typical farm house, tools, clothes, etc. ..
The square bell tower, the tower of Stefan cel Mare. Piatra Neamt expresses the idea of being a rich and productive city, we see the first major electronics store. On the whole glass of a building under construction shall display a large number of advertising, a small Piccadilly Circus. For tourists there is also a panoramic gondola from the town center rises a little higher up the park's largest city, but does not seem very interesting. Leaving the center quickly we stop to visit a beautiful church recently by striking exterior colors.
Bicaz,
the country very bad, up to 50 years the economy was based almost exclusively on forestry activities and then build a large cement factory has changed its appearance. Cement soar on every corner, we stopped only for supplies. We went to the famous "gorges" meeting other cement companies, the road runs next to a river suddenly narrows and appears the first stalls. We stop, the grooves are a little further on and continue on foot. The narrow road, the presence of many tourists and stalls everywhere mean that you create a bell'ingorgo. The "Cheile Bicazului" were created over time by the flow of the river and Bicaz are impressive height and peculiarities. The road that connects through the region of Moldova with Transylvania. The piece of road that follows is the most scenic, a succession of hairpin bends through the rocks and the spurs of the mountain.


Lacul Rosu
few kilometers after the throats of Bicaz you reach the "Lacul Rosu. There are many cars and buses parked on the roadside as the car parks are all filled. We have lunch in the park overlooking the lake and entertain us watching from a distance that only a madman in the middle of the park is having a monologue that probably only understand him until a policeman reguardisce good good starts and then sitting at a table in the bar still low introspective voice his speeches. Legend of the "Lacu Rosu," Lazare said that once lived a beautiful girl named Foreign Policy. One day she said she would go to the feast of Gheorgheni. There he met a nice man and strong that he could fight a bear nick. They fell in love immediately, the young man asked her to become his bride, but the marriage did not come because he had to go to war. Foreign awaited him. In the evening when she went to take the spring water was crying so hard that even the mountains were impressed. In an afternoon on a Sunday was seen by a thief, kidnapped her and take her quickly to Suhardul Mic, the mountain where he lived with a hundred faces. He and gold promo argentoin exchange for his love, but she did not want anything but his true and only love. The thief lost patience and forced her to marry him. She asked him cried out for help to the mountains and rocks responded with lightning and thunder, heavy rain began that swept everything and everyone, the mountain collapsed. Foreign died under the rocks and the thief, after the waters retreated and remained the only Lacu, Rosu like the blood of Foreign died.
Let us take a boat trip on the lake, up to 10 meters deep, quiet and we can get closer to the half-submerged logs and then take a walk along the lake.
When going a stall selling Kürtoskalács we already knew from traveling to the Czech Republic, do not let them escape. We continue our journey through beautiful mountain landscapes, meet a party with lots of tents. Overnight accommodation in Gheorgheni, pension Teke, cute, full of flowers, the window of the kitchen into the hallway of the rooms, the scent that penetrates is an irresistible temptation, we have dinner at the guesthouse. As usual I exaggerate, "the chorba Paes (boiled meat and vegetables), this time served without tochitura mamaliga (polenta). The food is good but a bit 'heavy.

Castle Lazare
6 km from the guesthouse, built in 1450 is well preserved despite the recent restoration, the beautiful room of the main building with large wooden table, two old musicians play the violin sonatas. We also visit a small gallery where an exhibition of works by young budding artists in Romania.
Odorheiu Secuiesc
the road is bad, the road is paved for at least 5 / 6 layers of asphalt of different writing, we meet many motorcyclists do not envy them at all. 97% of third-Secuiesc Odorheiu are of Hungarian origin, the only thing in my opinion it deserves a visit is the main square. Not far away in the old town is a popular festival is taking place (you input 6, ~ 2 €), there are artisans who sell their products, from ceramics to traditional dress. Lunch at the party with a Ghiros mediocre.Riprendiamo the journey towards Targu Mures. The road is beautiful and busy and we meet the usual Rom selling blackberries, blueberries and hazelnuts.
Targu Mures,
at first glance appears to be a rich city, but judging by the number of car dealerships that meet. The population at one time almost entirely of Hungarians is now present at 50%. And 'Saturday, the streets are very busy, we come easily, however, in the main square next to the hostel which is unavailable (no house number) that we reach only by calling and asking for directions. It is located in a side street to the square "in the back of the church with the green roof", this was an indication (Ms Hostel, tel +40 751 246 861). The reception is closed, we welcome children Hungarians seem a bit 'drunk, what he says to work in England boasts an English kindergarten, bah!? We visit the central square with beautiful style balazzi Hapsburg and churches, out of place the multitude of casinos with dazzling neon lights. Then we visit the citadel and the surroundings very beautiful outside, but not so inside, only a few sights worth visiting. We have dinner from "Leo" in the square, grill specialties, even exaggerate here and there's two Piattoni meat, good, fair price according to the canons of Romania.

Visit the church adjoining the hostel, the sky is overcast and cold. The church is closed and the faithful waiting outside. The Orthodox church at the end of the square is very beautiful, are celebrating a baptism at a distance, the church is full of paintings and the little soft lighting makes the atmosphere intimate and pleasant.
We visited the "Palace of Culture, the rooms of the auditorium-style early 900 with a huge organ, the hall of mirrors with beautiful stained glass, the history museum, an interesting art gallery. Fine rooms, stairs, entrance and exterior of the building, not bathrooms.
Let Sighisoara Targu Mures direction with the rain, we move to a country renowned for being the land of the souvenir and carry all the houses overlooking the main street have set up in the garden or even better with the makeshift wooden shacks shops selling souvenirs, even if they are really few real handicrafts for sale.
Sighisoara
The guesthouse is located opposite the railway station (Vila Franka, vilafranka (at) gmail.com), we arrive at around 13. The town has Saxon origins, when in the twelfth century colonists invited by the Hungarian King settled in this area. Let's go to the center on foot, we encounter a small cemetery of the fallen of World War II Russians. Cross the wooden footbridge and then climb to the citadel that immediately presents itself very touristy with souvenir stands everywhere. Let's take a ride, we climb to the top deck using the wooden staircase. Church and view of the walls, are celebrating a wedding and the bride is very young. We return to the center using the scale as before, after a small alley on the right leads to a beautiful coffee near the inner walls with a beautiful vine pergola, beautiful place to relax despite the proximity to the tourist turns away from the chaos. The only flaw speak only Romanian, order a piwo (beer) and ice cream. The museum closes at 16:30 today, to postpone the visit until tomorrow. Wander around the town and along the walls, a monument dedicated to Vlad, who was born here commemorated with a bust placed next to the church in which 18 students attended a concert of music that accompanied by two musicians playing viola and violin, plus a soprano . Entrance costs 2 lei, the church is bare and slowly fills with people. Closed at 19, back to the board. We make shopping at the shop opposite the station, all around is full of Roma, a young mother accompanied by their children, sitting quietly on the steps of the store leaves a son rolling on the ground in despair. We have dinner in a room with Prague ham, cheese, onions and dark beer Silva, excellent. Outside the board of the boy shows off his reception Dacia enhancing the engine is on sale at 2000 €. In Discovery's television channel in the original language with subtitles in Romanian.

Sighisoara, visit the historical museum in the tower. There is a room dedicated to astronomy, Hermann Oberth was born in Sighisoara is an important aerospace engineer at NASA, the trees of this new frontier.
From the top of the tower offers a beautiful panorama of the city. The museum of arms contains a painting of Napoleon (but has never gone this far?). Museum of torture set in the foundations of the tower where there were prisons, is nothing but a little secret. Leaving behind the tourist Sighisoara, we head Viscri on a beautiful road that we then leave for a secondary paved only in half and then totally white. Meet just a cart along the 5 / 6 km to reach the village.
Viscri
The town grew up along a dirt main street where there is the trough for cattle. We ask that children are playing in the street where both Biserica and shows us the way we'll find out then the alternative: on the cobblestone path to ground, car park and continue on foot. The case is an elderly lady who spoke in German Saxon explains that the organ was recently restored and that the development takes place in Germany twice a month (input 1 ron, ~ € 0.30). We climb the tower / bell tower through narrow passages, accompanied by disturbing schriccolii, the view is worth the effort though. We visit the walls of the church, the small agricultural museum and the tower where the bacon fat was kept of all households in the country, the room was open once a week and everyone was cutting the amount that was used for the week ahead. Returning the car the path is blocked by a cart that is unloading bricks, waiting patiently. The road that leads back to the main dirt track is still to Brasov, we stop at a restaurant for lunch. Skewers of chicken and beef and a decent price usually content. Eat assisting in the negotiations that take place at the table next to one of our old gypsy and a middle-aged couple, talks about some jewelry.
Harman
near Brasov, Saxon church built around 1240, however, is closed, we take a quick tour of the walls. The chimneys of the nearby houses have almost all of a stork's nest.
Brasov
very busy, with wide streets and lanes with too many for my taste. We reach the hostel through the historic center. The hostel "Rolling Stones" (www.rollingstone.ro) is a large house with three double rooms and two dormitories that serve as dormitories. It is certainly not silent, but it deserves for the family atmosphere that is established. Let's go for a walk in the center. Road SFOR, the narrow way closer European wide between 111 and 135 cm. and 80 meters long, town, square, central avenue. We come back to hostel, after eating quietly in the square, this evening we have a Jacuzzi Suite with which obviously I feel.

Wake up early, breakfast with jam, white bread and instant coffee.
Bran
Dracula's castle is the "tourist destination" in Romania, too bad for the visit will be required to follow a path (you input 12, ~ 4 €). It was built in the twelfth century by the Teutonic Knights and gave inspiration to Stroker for the description of Dracula's Castle, even though it has never belonged to Vlad Tepes. At the foot of the castle inevitable speculation tourist resort with a multitude of stalls and a guy dressed up as Dracula from the face of deep grief. Interesting reconstruction of the small rural village.
Rasnov
citadel perched on top of the mountain overlooking the valley also built by the Teutonic Knights in 1215. Parking is near the main road and go up then walk for 15 minutes (you input 8, ~ 2.4 €). The citadel is very welcome, the first part is well preserved, which can not be said of the area opposite. We have lunch at a restaurant nearby parking, well considering the environment all in wood, food and price.
Pomerigigo in Brasov, we visit the small church that affiaccia on the central square, town, cabin on the mountain overlooking the city which offers a beautiful view. "Biserica Neagra," the Black Church, so named after the 1689 fire that ruined and dark. Attended a concert for organ (5 entrance you, ~ 1.5 €), a body striking the eighteenth century with over 4000 pipes. Walk along the shopping street, have dinner with pizza, pizzas or Romanian, which has little to do with the Italian, triple the ingredients.

Sinaia
We moved from Brasov to Sinaia, visit the castle Pelisor, inlaid wood room with a very original, get some warnings indicate the danger of the presence of bears. The visit comes only with guides on quickly and only a small part of the castle. We go down to Sinaia, other markets along the route. We see from outside the monastery. We try to dine at the Green House, very nice inside, the service is poor and after more than three quarters of an hour and useless and vain attempts to order us to leave. Lunch at a restaurant Pralova or fair. Afternoon relaxation, located at the board "Green Eden" (~ 16 € per person with breakfast, www.greeneden.ro) 3 stars Busteni, mountain resort very busy, we do not a little hard to find, not the address is new nobody knows. Calling the lady speaks only Romanian and I hang up, fortunately a Romanian lady who worked in Italy and helps us know our language. We had passed close to the first research post. The board is also new and cozy, beautiful view of the village in the valley, take a ride, is the week of culture, the show is only in Romanian though. Dinner with Cheese took the market to 1 eur and grapes, have lunch on board pogiolo of watching the sunset.

Snagov, misread the guide we finished, but not worth it. The only thing that seems to be interesting is the real Dracula's tomb in the church on the island in the lake cebtro. The indications are non-existent and not come across anyone to be able to ask, I buy the Tuica from a lady down the road and head towards Buchuresti. The arch of triumph is being restored. The hostel is great for what we pay for, too bad the mosquitoes (www.cristman-hostel.ro), near the Porta Romana district 5. Visitta the Italian church, art museum in the old royal residence, Church of the princess (Biserica Doamnei) Cismigiu Park
and beer at the bar looking for some 'coolness. Around in the old part of the center circle national military, viale della Vittoria, a covered arcade with many bars and public places. We visit the beautiful church and the nearby Stavropoleos old brewery by striking interior. Dinner near Piata ventricle? Carbonara mediocre. Let's go back to the hostel, the caretaker speaks Italian and exchanging a few words he says as young Romanians are working abroad and returning after 10 years and have money to buy houses, cars, motorcycles, etc. ..

The city is busy, the night was hot and muggy. Many people dressed up and with her small bouquet of flowers, probably because of the anniversary of the day. Take the subway from Piata Romana to Piata U.S., we walk to the Palazzo del Popolo along Union Avenue that resembles the Champs Elise Paris. It's hot, reached the palace must get around to the entrance to the visitarori, we arrive at 10:10, the prrossima visit is available at 12, we adapt and look. We would like to visit the museum of modern art that is in the same building, but the entrance is on the opposite side, we try to work around it but after half an hour we're only half way, this building is very huge. Back at the entrance waiting sadly, we are controlled by the metal detector, keep my trusty Victorinox. Galactic building, rooms to rooms. There is no air conditioning, feared chemical attack by air conditioning. When going cross the famous French family a few days ago, the case. The 22.23 and 24 August there will be a rally car with the participation of the teams in Formula 1 car, traffic is disrupted. We travel by metro to the north of the city, lunch with pasta and bakery products in the bakery outlet. We visit the Muzeul Taranului Român: very interesting farm museum, there is also a house rebuilt inside. Metro to the stop Avilator. Muzeul National Satului the Dimitrie Gusti, is the outdoor Village Museum, a beautiful (www.muzeul-satului.ro). Typical houses from various regions of Romania carried so far in 1938, including a wooden church from Maramures. Even today it is very hot, we return to the hostel.

Buchuresti, Horezu
Let the hot Buchuresti prendento the highway, we stopped at a motorway after about twenty minutes where many truckers are eating breakfast with "chorba" (soup) and beer.
Horezu, famous for its craft production of ceramic articles, we also buy a few jars of interesting markets along the main road apperna first in the country. Lunch of tochitura not good this time, not the height of the expected time. We visit the Monastery, the exterior seems rather austere, but inside is revealed much more fascinating. At the car park a middle-aged lady noticing the Italian plate we sketched a sentence in Italian, will we meet and we discover that a young man was engaged to a Torinese and had learned a little 'in Italian. E 'original Maramures, now retired (77 eur / month) and to round it deals with a small souvenir stand.
We head to Curtea de Arges through a beautiful hilly road through small villages. And 'Saturday, we are ahead of a day on the roadmap and the B & B where we had a reservation for today has no place on Sunday, are in trouble (after an hour of wandering) a vacant room in a small bar / restaurant / Hotel on the main street of town. Then we discover that all the rooms are occupied because Saturday is the day of marriage and many relatives are from outside the province. In our standard hotel celebrating a wedding and service to traditional dances that are involved all participants, from children to adults. We have dinner at the restaurant, is a beautiful evening with the full moon. There's a concert at the sports field, there is no lighting on the road, the service order is reduced to a traffic policeman who stopped the car to allow pedestrians to cross the street. Many viewers, first singing and dancing a group of young girls (a sort of Spice Girl Romanian), then a Romanian folk-rock band with good sound, but by the course for us incomprehensible.

Hearty breakfast at the hotel, breaded cheese and sausage. We visit the Monastery, a place of pilgrimage, it is very crowded because it's Sunday. Legend "The Legend of Manole master builder who had been entrusted with the task of building the church. Although he was one of the best of his era that was erected during the day, collapsed at night. One night he dreamed that Manole to make solid construction and end the work was necessary to sacrifice and murarne within the first woman, wife or sister, who had led after the first day lunch to her husband or brother. Manole reported the dream and all accepted the idea believe that a work of such great value and importance also require a great sacrifice. The next day was hectic waiting for the first woman and at some point away from Manole recognized his pregnant wife. Manole's wife, was the only one that day to bring lunch to their loved one because the others had taken care to inform his wife or sister. It was walled up inside the building and so the day after the church was still standing. Negru Voda happy for the beauty of the monastery decided that no one else would ever have such a beautiful building to be constructed and ordered workers to remove the scaffolding when Manole (mind the project) was still on the roof. Manole not give in and tried to escape by building wings with the timber left. Like Icarus, the wings do not work, ran a short distance and died. The legend ends by saying that, saddened and touched by the gesture, the earth did appear a little water, and then a tear fell on the spot where the poor Manole is a fountain.. "
Walking through the stalls, is a beautiful sunny day and the fresh air of the mountains blowing downstream. Let us now Transfagarasan, dell'Arges up the valley, we cross Poienari, where the castle stands on top of it lived longer by Vlad Tepes. Shortly after the road begins to climb along a series of switchbacks and arrive at Lake Vidraru, with 165 meter high dam built to energy needs of the region. Transfagarasan is the famous road that connects the Tansilvania with Wallachia. It was built between 1970 and 1974 by the military on the orders of the then Romanian dictator Ceausescu to create a north-south link through the Carpathian Mountains. The busy road to the dam, then loosen up. The dam at the edge of the road are struggling with many Romanians and barbecue grills. Many also tend to people who already had prepared the previous day. The road along the reservoir created by the dam is tortuous but very beautiful landscapes, we stop often to better enjoy nature. We also stopped at a fountain where a flowing icy water delicious. Once on top you must go through a long tunnel over 800 meters, which brings us to the other side of the mountain coming to Balea Lac. Time is the opposite of what you have left behind just two minutes ago, there is the fog (clouds whereas we are at 2000 meters above sea level), the visibility is poor and is chilly. Various stalls selling handicrafts and traditional foods. The car of the many patrons are parked everywhere along the sides of the road and with difficulty and a little 'luck we stand. All this chaos creates a sharp slowdown in the lane opposite to our next intersection, causing a queue of Almendare 3 km. Let's take a quick tour of the lake and then continue the descent of the slope, the less fascinating. Let's just stop to admire the falls.
Sibiu, the "Pension Fortuna" is about 4 km from center (~ 22 € per person with breakfast, www.pensiuneafortuna.ro). We have dinner in one of the central squares of the pedestrian city struggling to find a place where you can eat Romanian cuisine, is a city 'European' as Brasov and pizza "Italian" have taken over the local restaurants. The city, over others, is very much alive even though the sun has already dropped by much.

Sibiu
We visit the cathedral, climb the tower that dominates the city from which the panorama godinamo. We have not had breakfast and take advantage of a bakery with sweets are still hot. Going to the center, visit the church from the largest square and then we do a pool for the pedestrian mall. In the afternoon we do a little 'shopping in a nearby shopping center. We arrived late afternoon to Ighiu, a small town not far from Alba Iulia, where there awaits the most unique holiday accommodation. The owners have restored original farmhouse is a charming B & B, hostel, bed, I do not know exactly how to define it with a pool (pond) with a lot of boat, gardens with water games room, meeting rooms, wine cellar for wine tasting (this area is known, in my opinion bad though). The rooms are tastefully decorated with Ikea furniture. The staff, all family-friendly and makes us take the tour of the hotel and offers us wine, I am very proud of their work. Relax under the patio by the pool know that Romanian is a work in Bucharest is the cook and knows a bit 'of Italian. He explains why many fellow citizens emigrate and why he prefers to stay in his homeland, the difficult relationship between Romanians and Roma, Romania comìè changed for the better and for worse in the post-Ceausescu.
We have dinner at this "amusement park", well, maybe this is the right setting, good food and great atmosphere, partly because the country as well as a few sellers of bulk wine there are other activities.

Alba Julia
We have breakfast in a bakery at the foot of the citadel, we visit the top, interesting church with the tombs of kings, Hungarians, with the strong possibility of visiting and the monastery now being restored.
Hunedoara castle Hunyad well preserved in the city of steel mills, the city has a more ghostly than you have presuppoma the castle of Corvino. It helps us to find parking Luciano, a Romanian who spoke on sesantina a decent Italian asks us to address libraries in my town because he has a passion for Italian books, boh?.
We visited the castle well preserved, but bare (you input 6, ~ 2 €). Interesting is the legend of the well and the two prisoners: "The legend was dug by two Turkish prisoners when it was promised freedom if they found water in the stone. After fifteen years of the ill-fated excavations found a source but were not rewarded by their captors, who instead placed near the well with a plaque engraved in Arabic You have the water but do not have a soul. "
Arad, will arrive in late afternoon, do a little 'hard to find the' Hostel Fortress (fortress_aradyahoo.com). The reception desk is in the boiler room where a Romanian foreign languages are unknown welcomes us and not null field to what is written on our booking charges us even the down payment as (2 €). We are the only ones to sleep in this structure is not old, but kept evil. We have dinner, taking advantage of cooking with cheese and salami that we complete in Billa. Speaking RumenLatinItaliano information on the car and asked me to be careful that if the Romanian police took advantage of foreign-registered cars and seeing insinuado stopping and problems to be oiled in order to leave without trouble. Something that has never happened, even though I had read many success cases in previous years, there has indeed been done even in Measuring-input control at customs.

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Annulla
Ascolta
Traduzione da Italiano verso Inglese
We wake up early, Budapest, Maribor, Ljubljana, Italy, home.

Further information:
www.gnothisauton.it/romania2008/