Travel in Romania, visiting Mamaliga and Mititei locations

Mamaliga and Mititei.
our trip to Romania is organized in a week. we were already 10 years ago and want to see change, also my sister-mine never was. you will be our traveling companion.
our children, this time, must remain at home,
Because school commitments!

 

Szilvásvárad - Debrecen - Marghita

At 10:30, after having served in our breakfast. dell'agriturismo customers, starting from Szilvásvárad (Hungary) at a time in Romania.
After one kilometer you will return back immediately because I have forgotten at home all the maps, the route and guide Routard!
It is the first time that we travel with Routard hopefully not disappoint us. We bought the French, since that was more current.
12:00 we have not even 100 Km path .. the ns. friend Claudia (un'italiana working in Romania and we are going to find tonight) we must explain as to traverse the stretch Eger-MARG in 2 ½ hours! Margita is our. first leg in Romania, a town situated near the Hungarian border, between Oradea and Satu Mare. 14:00 (15:00 Romanian) crossing the border Letavértes small. We affamatissimi since, in Debrecen then we did not find even a small trattoria, which is very strange for Hungary. So we stop at the top where it says "Restaurant", at least so it is written. Snitzel eat with Pireu (cutlet with mashed)! Then in the afternoon (made enough) we arrive at Margita, rather anonymous town. But, as luck would have ... tonight is the celebration of the country.
In the evening of Italian friends of Claudia invite us to their house for dinner, so eat Italian, Venetian exactly! After dinner we go to the party of the country where there is music, rides, stalls and kiosks with several Romanian specialties to taste. Curiosity among gourmet banquets ... not because we still have hunger but passion un'atavica towards culture vivandiera! So we know the 'chemical' (or 'mititei'), to form small balls of sausage that are grilled. Besides those there are also 'Kanuz' (type luganega), i 'frigarui' (kebabs) and the 'gratau' (barbecue). They eat ... Then take a trip on the merry-go-rounds, and finally we go to bed. The people there seem quite poor, without much chance ... yet we are in a town where there are several foreign factories and then the job does not fail. Clothes are also quite bad. The difference with Hungary is abysmal, even after 10 years.

Marghita - Satu - Sighetu - Breb

After a night frost (the double duvet enough for one person and fourth ...) we do breakfast and Claudia to recover from the Mina, who has stayed there, and start our journey! Giampaolo and I rather have stayed in a pension which, although bellina, we were very expensive, because the required amount of 42 euros there is an exaggeration seemed ... especially compared to prices in Hungary.
Starting at 8:00 in the direction of Satu Mare. We are almost out of gas for which we seek distributors ... but scarce! Ahi Ahi Ahi ... But close to a border town is the distributor and we are full!
Wow ... costs about a euro here! After an hour we are still a long queue in the state because of an accident .... People are discussing what to do ... but in fact on a map there are alternatives, even if to go back!
After half an hour tell us that we can divert to a country road, dirt track, but forward. Un'austriaca gets angry with her husband, saying if it's crazy to think of going with the BMW cabrio in the countryside .... and uses all the respectable German idioms. Laughter!
In the end we decide to try us. Ok first piece. The second leg starts to become a real campaign trail, with lots of weeds and shrubs in the middle road threatening crawling on the body of our poor car! After half an hour freezes more ... And ... yes, because they have channeled for this narrow path the car coming from the opposite direction, so there's a big chaos! On the road there passes at most one machine, in turn has groped to move over the fields ... We immediately grounding .... Fortunately everyone is willing to go. After a bit spotted a huge trailer truck coming from the opposite direction .. O mother ... and now? Do not worry the soil is hard and you pass on the grass! Fortunately we were among the first to leave and we can finish our. Rally in the space of half an hour! I believe that after the total ban was inevitable!
Around noon we begin to climb to the valley of Maramures, the border with Ukraine.
Valley populated by rich people of strong historical traditions, testimony of folklore and customs rooted in time, people living in a large agricultural and timber industry, but also mining. A people strong, tenacious, which has managed to live with different cultures (Hungarian, Jewish, Ukrainian) without losing their identity, even under the various dominations (Austro-Hungarian, Russian ...).
Overtaken the town of Negresti in the direction of Satu Mare, cross-country where beautiful villas, some luxurious, one after another along the way and leaves little room for poor old houses, which seem almost disappeared. Tetti drugs, columns, stained glass, wrought iron gate. It is the country of Certeza. It is thus changed in Romania 10 years? Later there will be explained that most of the inhabitants of this place, after the fall of the communist regime, has gone to work abroad (mainly in Italy and France) have sent money to family members remaining at home and they have rebuilt their houses .... Bhe sure villas so you can see a few in Italy. The road continues to climb and the landscape becomes more beautiful. Terraced fields and hundreds of sheaves of hay high. At 13:00 we stop to see the Sapinta Cemetery Allegro!
Also here's all changed ten years ago. The tombs have been partially restored and the entrance there is a host of bars, buffet and shops of handicrafts and souvenirs. The Allegro Cemetery is a real cemetery, still working, but with the characteristic of the tombstones have drawn caricatures of the deceased with the description in verse of the activities in life. The blue loading is the basic color, while the naif-style paintings are in bright colors.
14:00 arrive at Sighetu Sea. Even this city is very different. We stop for lunch at the restaurant Casa de Lurca Calinesti! The restaurant is very good and also eat well. The cost is negligible. The only problem we have with the brandy, because at the end of lunch we order a Grappino e. ......... there decilitre to wear a head!
Then we go to visit the Museum of Memory. This memorial on the victims of communism and the resistance was inaugurated in 1994. The headquarters is at the old prison of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which, unfortunately from 1945 onwards were used as concentration camps, where they were locked up writers, artists, intellectuals, politicians, virtually all those who thought the communist regime could oppose the scheme. Even Catholic priests and bishops. Over a quarter of them died in their cells for malnutrition and frost. Inside the cells are arranged small thematic exhibitions. The topics are varied: the deportation in Germany, the labor camps, the removal of King Mihaly, etc. Very particular is the "Area of prayer and meditation dedicated to the more than 8000 prisoners died in prisons in Romania, and designed in a style that combines the ancient with the modern, as well as various religious cults.
After visiting the museum we head towards the village of Breb, where we booked on a working farm. The landscape of the countryside along the road is beautiful, a patchwork of fields dotted here and there by countless sheaves of hay. We meet so many wagons driven not only by horses, but even by horse. Little machines. Bus or by courier, even less. They have no public services?
18:00 arrive in Breb, by Maria and Petru, which we welcome very warmly. The two young daughters (7 and 12 years) give a large DAFF. The largest also speaks good French. It's with you that I spoke on the phone yesterday.
Yes they also host a pair of French backpacks on your shoulders! Incredible .... We explain that the resources are scarce (there were noticed) but they have moved a little train, a bit on foot and with a little hitch. To come here, however, discover that they rented a car. The French are sleeping outdoors in a bungalow (the cold, who knows ....) because the rooms were already occupied by us (NDR: thank goodness we booked).
While Petru grappa gives us a welcome (Horinca), Maria milking the cows and their daughters Apparatus table. Dinner is good, including cakes apple Mary. After dinner, chatted a bit with them while the two girls sparecchiano (our children should learn from them!). Petru also talk a little bit of Italian. He projects that is building slowly. Also purchased a small minibus, which carries out small groups of tourists who provide the local agencies. He is also renovating an old wooden house, which will implement other rooms for tourists. We wish you success because it is truly a beautiful family. Around eleven we nanna. A bed is warm and soft blankets of Maramures ... surely we will not have cold!

Breb - Budesti - Borsa - Cimpolung - Varna

After a good breakfast with fresh milk just milked, starting at 8:30! Petru also gives us a bottle of Horinca ... but they do not come up at home because it will be consumed during the trip! The first step is to Budesti, where we visit at least from the outside - since Sunday is closed - the Church Budesti Iosani of 1643. Will then continue through the village of SIRB, famous for having retained most of its ancient wooden houses.
We visit a small church of 600 with an adjoining cemetery. A woman invites us to his house to show the embroidery, which I gladly would have bought even if I had asked for the exorbitant sum of 100 euro a piece! Then we make two steps in the village to admire the historic wooden houses, with their high fences, also in wood, and the gardens filled with flowers. Courtyards, apart from the typical well is ubiquitous "tree pots ".... ie a tree whose branches are made to drain the various cookware. A SIRB today are all in costume! It's Sunday and go to Mass. The girls have very nice colorful costumes, women instead differentiate into two categories, those with and those gonnellone black with colorful gonnellone. We have no way to know the motivation. The men wear hats and a very typical rich waistcoats over shirts. Let's take a step to a lady with the crutches ... the only one not in costume because it is a witness of Jehovah ... and start from SIRB. Ripasso Budesti and from there head to Botiza. Botiza is a country famous for its handicrafts, but the craft shops do not even see one! It's because everything is closed Sunday and the Sunday Mass to be ALL. A Botiza we can see the insides of the first ancient wooden church, which fortunately is open. In the central square a lot of people in costume in front of the imposing Orthodox Church, listen to the Mass.
In this area the churches are certainly the most important and grandiose. Start around noon and we decide to skip the step of Leud, and because the French last night told us that it is not anything exceptional, either because they assume that this country is very similar to this and now everything is closed there too. Crossing the various villages scattered along the route, we discover another local tradition. Most of the old wooden houses (I had also noticed a SIRB) have benches cut in fence to fence, usually near the entrance door. They have a real meeting place, where family and friends to return from Mass sit for a chat with one another. Some also have the roof (in case of rain?).
13:30 arrive in Borsa, a town on the border between the Maramures and Bucovina. Pearl restaurant to have lunch. There are mushrooms! Wonderful. We spend a lot, however, almost double yesterday.
Having taken the money at local ATM (using the gloves because it gave the shock!), We take the mountain road towards the Bucovina. At 16:00 we reach the step of Prislop. It is at 1400 Mt, and it's quite cold. Here they sell mushrooms. But at 7 euros per kilo seem a little expensive given that in Hungary procure them for 3-4 euros. In all cases we could not even cook and then .... We drink a coffee and start. Passed Cimpolung arrive in Varna. Already the 18:45 because the road was hardly a single building site and we have taken much longer than expected. We are a stone's throw from Moldova, where tomorrow will make the tour of the Monasteries.
We seek a private pension recommended by Routard but it is deserted. There are not even close .... Then spend two girls who tell us that people call them by phone. There is the feast of the country and are all in place! And go! Another party. After a bit the owner arrives, kind, but informed us that no rooms. We guarantee, however, that there is an arrangement by someone else. In fact after a couple of telephone calls with us at a beautiful private home where to expect the owners to come (they too are the party of the country).
The house is very elegant and well kept, the lady will also prepare a good meal that we consume in his living room, around a table very good unit. What is missing here however, is the friendly welcome we have given Maria and Petru last night. After dinner we drink a Horinca on the terrace (not cold tonight) and then, between a bellow and a scampanellio of cows around us, we decide to go to sleep because we are too tired, even though going to see the festival of the country will attract enough ...

Varna - Moldovita - Sucevita - Dragomirna

Mina at 6:30 and I are already on the terrace fumarci a cigarette and a drink there Grappino ... why not? After breakfast we depart. The weather is beautiful. We have a tire deflates slightly, but the police on the street tells us that the first tire is 30 km.! And if a rubber ce had completely deflates? Patience. The first monastery we visit is the Monastery of Moldovita.
Surrounded by walls outside the monastery, run by nuns, was built in 1532-1537. The first visit for us because the nun (Maica) Tatiana, Routard as recommended by the guide, is not. The Routard also, unlike the Lonely Planet does not report many details about the monuments and museums.
Tatiana the latest encounter, however, is with a handful of French, so we aggregate, thus witnessing a lively and detailed explanation. We can understand the meaning of the frescoes, both internal and external. The themes of the frescoes created by an association between religion, history, philosophy and tradition. So there's Jesus with the traditional straitjacket of Bucovina. There is the tree of life, Savonarola against a blue sky and along the branches are the characters depicted religious, and even the sovereign base and philosophers. Inside, divided into two rooms, are represented the twelve months of the year divided into days corresponding to the Martyrs. The iconostasis is richly decorated and very beautiful. Let our offer and share it.
The landscape runs between woods and fields planted with hay.
The second stage of the day is the Monastery of Sucevita. Much like the first but with the best preserved frescoes, especially those on the outer wall to the north.
Very interesting the fresco illustrating the various stages of creation of the world, the first scenes were painted on a white background to indicate the purity of genesis. Later, after the sin of Adam and Eve, however, the scenes take on a dark background growing up to become black. Very interesting also the fresco showing the scale of Virtue, for access to Paradise. After death all have to go up this scale, but only those who did not commit sins in life can reach up to the top. The other crash.
Meet the French the other night. Are destroyed because they did all night by train. Do not envy them. We are backpackers traveling in these areas of Romania really advise it to anyone, unless you have much time available!
After visiting the Monastery of Sucevita, also operated by nuns, we head towards Dragomirna. Wrong in respect of which end up on a private road to a National Park which, through a beautiful path in the woods, leads us to the front yard of Dragomirna. The visit to the Monastery, however, the reserve for the afternoon. First we must look for place to sleep last night and a restaurant where lunch. Since the square there's a bar asking for information to find the family Buraco recommended by the Routard. The girl in the bar he replies in perfect French, saying that he met Mrs. Buraco morning and said that no rooms, but can you recommend someone else. To me it does not convince me that I say that I have already booked. (NDR: I would not wish to divert customers from other parts ... Routard the guide says that they do even the monks!) I then explained the way and after many ups and find the place. Mrs. Buraco I accept graciously. Has rooms available and we will prepare the dinner! Behold! I guessed right ...! That deviarci wanted by someone else and maybe even get the commission!
Deposited luggage and we go to Suceava to seek a place for lunch. Suceava is a great city, with nothing interesting to watch. We also wanted to avoid it but it seems the only alternative was to eat. We lose a lot of time. However we find a great restaurant, Villa Alice. The Lady who runs it and is only done in four of bar, restaurant and kitchen. Does not speak any foreign language but we understand. After lunch we visit the Monastery of Dragomirna. Also operated by nuns (though the monks here are in the minority?) Monastery this fascinates us. It is completely different from the first two. A splendid garden, nothing but so many frescoes and decorations on stone inlays. Inside there are two sisters who sing.
There is also a courtyard with the same linen. Let's make a couple of pictures to the nuns knickers out to dry, so ... to remember, then we move to the exit. We will venture to follow a few pointers for elusive Church of St. Peter and Paul, but are only campaign, woods and roads in poor condition. Our Seat meanwhile is training!
17:30 return to the family who hosted us and ... SURPRISE! We accept the girl in the bar this morning. It's his daughter! Unbelievable, hard to believe ... want to face competition mamma? Or wanted to avoid working too? The mystery remains unsolved. This place is not very much. The rooms are beautiful but there are no common rooms, or a patio in the garden to sit, there is no reception, no glass of wine to welcome ... nothing. By contrast those who find? But the usual French, clear! So at least we dine in company.
We go out to do two steps in the country. I launch the idea of going to take a drink and Mina ride! Where do you want to say there is a bar in the middle of the campaign? Giampaolo but says that there is, he has seen this morning ..... Gather bets. Meanwhile, across a huge grassy clearing at the center of the village, where you gather cows, geese, sheep, sheep and even horses, in addition to children playing. It is the common central farmyard to the whole country. Traditional Bucovina. On the other side of the plaza there is a bar as stated by Giampaolo .... Let's say more than a bar is a small kiosk, with tables outside the iron, but for a beer is good. We also try to communicate with local people but it is tiring. Some things you understand, for other is absolute vacuum. Return for dinner. Eat fairly well, apart from the sweet. The French are affamatissimi because of the train, no public transportation, lack of refreshment points, etc.., Explain that there is at noon yesterday by not eating (not always envy them ...). Then today also fighting a beast with a taxi driver with which moments are the hands! Talk up to eleven, of course, between us, because of the owners nor the shadow. You are limited to carry the food. We all agree that so far the most welcoming and warm was the farm of Mary and Petru.

Dragomirna - Bicaz - Gheorgheni

At seven we already have breakfast. The breakfast is abundant! This morning I did a little bit of accounts and I have discovered that up to now, the average expenditure was a head of 32 euros per day, includes petrol, cigarettes and museums. Not bad!
Today we face the Glens of Bicaz. It starts and then in the direction of Transylvania! On the way we make a stop at the Monastery of Neamt, so finally we see a monastery run by monks. The Monastery has a structure somewhat similar to Dragomirna but with un'iconostasi inside, really beautiful. We buy a bottle of wine made by monks for our collection and then we rely on the road.
The weather is getting worse. 11:00 we are already on the lake Izvorul, to the gorges of Bicaz. The landscape is beautiful! We stop for a drink in a pension run by a German, with a splendid view over the lake.
The lunch stop is at the port instead of Bicaz. There is a campground with a hotel restaurant floating on the lake! Eat well enough and we spend just 11 euro in three! We have not yet managed to taste all the specialties of the kitchen shown on Romanian Routard. However today I have eaten the grilled trout! In this area the change from 10 years ago is really known. Pensions and restaurants have sprung up like mushrooms and the streets are kept very well. After lunch we put on the panoramic road gorge.
The gorges Bicaz are fantastic. The road runs through a rocky canyon and along a lively stream. There are points where the walls are so close to retain the sun's rays. We stop to buy some souvenirs at the stalls placed in the widening of the road, then we stop at the Lake of petrified trees.
We do a good lap on the shores of the lake and shoot some photographs. Then I eat a cob roasted! It was from when I was a girl who does not eat one. Towards evening we reach Lazare, a village near Gheorgheni where we booked two rooms for this evening. The family Papp, who is hosting us, consists of mother and daughter Emma Sarolta (Charlotte), and is of Hungarian strain. Here we find again the warmth of the Hungarian and, knowing the language, we can also talk to. We offer you a drink and tell us that there are only persons of Hungarian origin. Only the police are Romanians. The language is still spoken Hungarian. Even the schools are in Hungarian. It's amazing. Since 1918, the year in which they were removed from the territories of Transylvania to Hungary, this nation has managed to preserve the language and traditions dell'etnia Hungarians. We are in the area of Szekely. The area of highest concentration of Hungarians in Romania traditions. The area houses the huge carved wooden doors. The area where you still dancing Csárda. The area where even the churches are mostly Catholic.
Even in the kitchen have kept the good traditions because the dinner is excellent, made with cabbage stuffed with all the trimmings. Delicious cake, perfect plum brandy (palinka) and good wine! I would say the first good wine drunk in private homes in Romania!
After dinner, talking with Emma, tells us that her husband was missing a few years ago and that the only activities which support is currently touring. Emma also has a child of 22 years who is studying in Cluj Napolca. It is not easy to pull forward, he explains. And believe. The opportunities for young people are few. Salaries are around 100 euros a month, even for graduates. (NDR: It's amazing ... I wonder how to make a living given that the costs are equivalent to those Hungarians in Hungary, but the salaries are at least 4 times, not to mention the graduates who come to earn 1,000 euros a month). Many young graduates just go to work abroad, says Emma.
Makes us see our guestbook! It is full of so many memories. Some customers still remember the year after Christmas. We have to write something too! It is a must, but to see tomorrow because we are a bit tired.

Gheorgheni - Brasov - Bran

At 7:30 we are already making breakfast and finally tasting the Zazusca ... a sauce of peppers and eggplants typical of Transylvania. To force that was not on the menus of restaurants, eat for breakfast! At 8:00 we are already on the road. Brasov direction.
Cross the entire region of Szekely and see some of the famous house portali inlaid wood. In truth very few. On the way to Brasov there is nothing particularly interesting to see apart from a beautiful mountain village resort Baile Tusnac, however even mentioned by Routard. Time is not the best. At noon we arrived in Brasov where we visit the historical center.
We do a long tour through the streets of the city center and visit the Black Church, so named because after a fire wall were completely blackened! The interior of the Black Church are impressive. There is a collection of beautiful carpets of Anatolia and the benches, decoratissime, recall the style Bavarian NDR (: type ancient breweries!). The architecture of Brasov, in fact, has German influences as part of the Saxon town. After visiting the church, have lunch at the restaurant Cerbul Carpatica in the central square and then pay a stratospheric ... (at least for Romania) spending more than three times the restaurant Sighetu Sea where we had eaten very well! Patience. After lunch we enter neighborhoods Schei. These are the old neighborhoods with narrow medieval streets and alleys full of history. Brasov is in almost total renovation. When they are finished works, mostly sponsored by the European Union, will be a great city. Quickly reach the car, it began raining. Pojana we head to Brasov, a beautiful resort town located on a mountain overlooking the city of Brasov. Poiana Brasov is the most important Romanian ski resort, very elegant and well treated. We stop to drink something hot in a little cabin-style bar and then continue to Bran, since the flood.
A Bran is the castle of Dracula, whose visit was scheduled for tomorrow morning, but since it is early and that it rains, we decide to visit it now!
The castle is very special and very well restored. Built in early 1300 by the Saxon merchants, had to defend the pass between Transylvania and Wallachia. Here he lived for some time the prince Vlad Tepes, who inspired the novel Dracula, although local people claimed that the prince was actually a very good person, a hero of resistance against the Turks, and with few things to do with the Dracula of the novel! The castle was owned at the beginning of'900 the Queen Mary, for the period were mobile and porcelain of the highest fattezza. Other furniture date back to 1300 instead! The castle is a labyrinth of rooms, halls and stairways. There's even a secret passage, many terraces and balconies.
At the end of the visit a Romanian girl, who works as a guide to the castle, we proposed to buy gloves, wool socks and thick, typical of Transylvania. Because we just wanted something like this, buy a little bit of things. She is so happy that does not stop kissing and embraces! And this for a few euros. At the castle also buy the local grappa and cheese from sheep that we "perfume" the car for the next few days! Piove forever.
Let's search for accommodation for the night, always relying on Routard.
We arrived at Villa Laura, a beautiful house with a huge garden, sin can not be used since the time .... The rooms here have private bathroom and the lady we prepare dinner. Mamaliga with Brinza (polenta with sheep's cheese) in the oven! Excellent. Tonight we go to bed early.

Bran - Sighisoara - Sibiu

At six o'clock in the morning are already alarm! Out of the deluge and it is dark pesto. So I try to stay still a little in bed. But then I go and desist on the balcony to read something (freeeddooo ...).
After breakfast based Brinza zazusca and we start! Today we have a long way to go. We must cross the whole area of Saxon villages, go to Sighisoara and Sibiu to finish! Will our heroes do? 10:00 soars to arrive, a disappointment! We continue therefore to Viscri which should be the medieval Saxon village among the best preserved. Hopefully, because so far even the streets have been preserved. Proceed up to 30 per hour! The holes, chasms better defined, which open on the road is indescribable! Giampaolo proceeds to slalom! We would like a jeep. Viscri towards the road becomes dirt ... but the holes remain! Along the way, which is also quite scenic, we met some Saxon villages with typical houses in pastel colors, but there is so much misery. Viscri to arrive and we are happy. Think about if after 47 km of road impossible, traveled more than two hours, we were disappointed!
A Viscri now we head to the fortress. Giampaolo, stressed by the guide, the guardian if the application is many tourists. She is so many ... he looks incredulous.
The fortress of the Church holds Viscri White, of 1230, built by a people of Hungarian origin. It is very distinctive and around reigns an air of peace. The fortress was built later, at the hands of the Saxon people in order to defend itself from attacks by the Turks and Ottomans. Inside the fortress there are small-storage cellars, where every family kept the stocks of food in anticipation of any attack. There was also a small school, now a museum ethnography. The keeper of the Museum, a very kind old lady, is Saxon. He explains in German that until prior to Ceausescu in this country still lived in 2000 Saxon, who for centuries have maintained their traditions and the German language. Currently there are only 24 remained.
To leave Viscri take another road, dirt track, but always in conditions little better. Go from appalling to 13:30 and we are already in Sighisoara, the medieval town declared World Heritage by UNESCO. Eat in the restaurant "Dracula", located in the native home of the count, or at least of Prince Vlad Tepes, the inspiration of the novel. The rooms are very charming and there is a special, even if we do not taste that much because we eat on the terrace, which is also pretty squalid. Even here it's all very expensive. Even the antique shops. Even for a pitcher and in Hungary up to pay 8 euros, we have asked me 20! After lunch we do a walk through the ancient streets Saxon. The city is in part already very well restored, but still full of construction sites. The streets of the citadel, however, are very picturesque. There is an air dense with history and peace. The Clock Tower is closed for restoration so we can not salirci. The Museum is also closed, so we be content of external views. We do a bit of pictures and then start.
Let us go in the direction of Sibiu. Along the way there are other Saxon villages of lesser importance, although the Simnic has a beautiful castle ... but we can not see everything, therefore we do not stop. Along the way we see merchants selling beautiful copper stills for the distillation of brandy!
Around 18:00 we arrive in Sibiu. That night we booked a hotel in old! The Empalator, located in the historical center a short walk from Piazza Sea. We find it hard to get there by car ... we do not even arrive at all. We should leave it at 100 meters. The Hall of the hotel is very impressive. The rooms are beautiful, at least ours, that of Mina is a bit small. 20:00 to go out for dinner. We make two steps in Piazza Mare, very well lit, has a certain charm. Remember a little the central square of Prague. Evening dinner in a restaurant economy, Bufuita (Owl) because we have to fall within the budget. The Bufuita is full of local people, in fact eat and drink very well and spend 21 euros in three! Return to normal. Well. Tasted the csolan afumat cu Fasolo (smoked shank with beans), leggerino! We know a Romanian living in Italy for many years, specifically in Florence where his parents had a hotel (!) ... That strange coincidence. He came to Romania for dental care.
After dinner we walk even a little for the old town and then we move into a hotel. If the other historic cities visited so far teeming work in progress, Sibiu is a work in progress! Of course having been elected European City of Culture for the year 2007 actually do that. In fact they work in the evening.

Sibiu - Alba Julia - Cluj Napolca - Turda

Great event today! We do breakfast at 8:00! The buffet is very rich dell'albergo. Then we go out to visit the city and I take pictures because we arrived last night with the dark.
The three squares in Sibiu: Mare, Mica and Huet is one of the most beautiful. The evangelical church, the imposing ramparts and the beautiful Saxon architecture houses create a wonderful atmosphere. Witnessing a horrific scene that, precisely because it lived in the city elected capital of European culture, leaves us without words ... In the middle of the square came two poorly dressed guys with a stick in his hand at the beginning we do not understand what it is. Then we realize that are accalappiacani but the snare is in wire and take the dog and dragging away ulula as desperate. The common thought is: how do you talk about European Union? Let us return to the hotel, pay the bill and we leave. Alba Julia. Julia Alba is famous for its citadel and fortress, which until two years ago was the military headquarters, but has now been opened to the public and can be visited. Entered the city it all looks very clean and orderly. The town of Alba Julia was a building site! For a good part, including the monastery, is already restored, and also very good.
In the fortress are preparing a show in costume. There are groups of people dressed as soldiers and villagers of the'600. They also set up a field kitchen, where cooking is a Gulyás ... Macchi, correct me now! Not a Gulyás soup is a Romanian! Do not forget that it is in Alba Jluia thousands of Romanians who have come together to proclaim the independence of Transylvania from Hungary. We also photographed the marble plaque affixed on the facade of a beautiful palace of the citadel. In the fortress we visit a couple of rooms (the only two open to the public) and then do a tour outside.
Let us go through the new part of Alba Julia. In ten years have made much progress, although the difference with Europe is still abysmal. Particularly on services. Transport for example must be almost non-existent. This testifies to the storage of which is the hitch at the city. We thought we had a problem in rural areas that we see instead is a shortage of fund.
(NDR: The Romanian Government should not have a great respect for the needs of the people, from public transport to arrive but unfortunately also to hospitals, to orphanages and shelters for the elderly. Several complaints from Amnesty International have pointed the finger on the problem of asylums or prisons, not to mention cases of human trafficking. The government does not care even that much to put brakes on child prostitution and the fact that we have personally noticed last year during a stop in Timisoara).
On the way to Cluj, as it is already past lunch time by a little bit and that ns. stomachs muttering ... I stop in front al'unico Giampaolo restaurant sighted after kilometers. The restaurant has a beautiful facade, but inside is nice, full of Romanian and families eat well too! We are in Turda.
At 16:00 we enter a precise Cluj Napolca and will leave at 17:00 ... quick visit? No ... we just shot an hour without finding a parking place or a pension or who had free rooms. Since Cluj is still a big city without even a pedestrian area where you can make two steps in the evening, and as the Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania is already closed, we decide that it is not worthwhile to stay for the night. Then continue.
18:00 we are already in the Valley dell'Aries, which was scheduled for tomorrow. We stop to sleep in an Inn near Turda Gorge, which is quite nice. The Ciprian. For dinner we order so many things that we eat only half. Except Mina, who tonight has appetite and eats even the di Giampaolo Mamaliga.

Turda - Albac - Chiscau

At 8:00 we are already in the car. We decide to go back a few kilometers to visit the gorges of Turda, a small canyon. However, after 6-7 km back and forth, we do not find the deviation (learn to make the signs of the tourist sites!) Therefore decide to continue, so we have already seen the gorges Bicaz without doubt the most spectacular.
Dell'Aries cross the valley, the valley that runs parallel to the south of the Directive Napolca Cluj-Oradea. It is the valley of the native population of Moti, farmers and craftsmen of wood, even if the craft for the time you have never seen. But cows, goats, buffaloes, there are thousands. For now, the road along the river Aries and is surrounded by greenery.
How odd that the hotel did not have milk with all these cows? The cars here are predominantly driven by oxen. You start to see the chain of the Apuseni mountains. We stop in front of a small bar, there's also a pizzeria ... but here are all the pizza does not think it is a local Italian, also secluded in a valley cut off from the world. Instead here is precisely the true Italian! Living here for 16 years! Drink a coffee while chatting a bit more of and less. We are interested mainly to consolidate the idea that we have made on the economic situation in Romania. And unfortunately, our intuition is true. Romanians earn about 100 euros per month. The costs are very high, as we had noticed us, almost more than the Hungarians!. There are rich Romanians. It is the middle class that does not exist.
Turning into the valley dell'Aries. The road starts to climb and the scenery is very beautiful. Reminds a little of the Trentino Alps. Dairies, pastures and many cattle. Then begin to meet pensions, restaurants, farms, hotels. Explain that there are so many summer tourists, especially Hungary. Indeed in this area there are many things to see, canyons, caves, underground glaciers, gorges, waterfalls. It is however an area where you should stop and multi-day trips, as all these attractions are quite far from main routes and needs to see them several kilometers on foot. (NDR: Or have a nice jeep!) The underground glacier for example it is 18 km. by the state, along a dirt road that we warn against travel with our car because in very poor condition. We stop for lunch at the top of the pass before descending to Stei. Eat well, especially the baked peppers that have a fairy tale! Then we come to Chiscau! Chiscau is the country where there are caves dell'Orso, ancient caves that we see appended to the group of visitors. A Chiscau there is also the farm where sleep tonight. But before you go visit a nice museum ethnographic prepared by a private family that has a passion for collecting old things. The museum is filled with items relating to agriculture, but also in everyday life: pots, carpets, pots and even clothes. There is also an attic where it was rebuilt a house typical. There is no entrance fee, asking only one offer for the maintenance of the Museum, that supply would obviously leave. At 18:45 we go to take possession of ns. rooms, just in time to witness the passage of a marriage procession of village. That beautiful, there are also the players and the flag-wavers. People dance!
The owners dell'agriturismo us see their garden, the garden at the rear, which also grow herbs, rosemary, sage, basil! In the summer, organized the barbecue for guests. The place is simple but the welcome is warm. In summer it must be very beautiful. There are large green spaces and lots.
They eat the honey they produce. You can buy? No! It is only the first year that he does. Makes us taste the wine. Not bad.
Dinner is delicious even with the stuffed peppers exceptional. Let's go to bed early because tomorrow we get up at home.

Chiscau - Oradea - Szilvásvárad

We leave for good now but after a few minutes we stop in the village following the road because jobs by hundreds of cows. But the show is still interesting. Must be the starting point for the Alpine!
A woman with typical gonnellone, shawl and scarf in the head is probably gathering the cows of the various owners to take them to pasture. Upon his passing the cows come from the various courtyards and join the group! Even the women from leaving their houses doors and deliver to the lady fruit, sandwiches, various foodstuffs. So, as the procession moves forward, the herd increases, and consequently also the bag of stores! Others are on the threshold of the house with sticks in hand to deter cattle from eating their flowers!
After 20 minutes finally take another route. And we salute the Romanian! We shall return to Oradea and in Hungary.
10 days, 2400 km, 1150 euro in three.