Kiev, Moscow, St. Petersburg. A travel into the change.

A tour in what was the immense empire of Soviet Socialist Republics. A trip to some countries in evolution, where out of the past requires a great courage and a big commitment ...

 

Kiev - 1st part

Leaving from Rovello, point to 5.00 for the airport of Malpensa, Frankfurt scheduled for 7.00 to 7.15 and it takes off, not even time to turn in duty free!
After 1.45 hours onto the flight landed in Frankfurt airport. The plane stops away from the mechanical arm, a bus up to the airport, walk across a large part of the structure to move towards the exit to Kiev. The departure for 9.35 is postponed to 10.10, we have time to see the airport, not very clean (especially the toilet) and confusing, the efficiency of the Germans now faces a major flagrant! At last we sailed to Kiev, the plane is far bigger than what we brought in Germany, he takes off with 1 hour delay, flight almost calm, a little 'of disruption, and there are blows after going through a blanket of clouds can be seen on Ukrainian soil. It lands, the formalities of customs clearance is slowed by misunderstandings created by language, the paperwork involved in Cyrillic writings are not easy to understand, to slow the speed helps the group number (31 people), with different times that can exceed passport control. Collect your luggage and passed, not without difficulty, a last check we are approaching the exit, we meet our guide with a sign in Cyrillic, notice that initially aware only when we hear that you understand Italian you. Ricompattato the group loaded the luggage on the bus, leaving for the first part of the tour ahead, the tour of Kiev. I do not know the Judas of Ukraine, I struggled to follow, I take notes and snap slides, announced three days is exhausting to be able to remember everything, to return to Italy I will have to buy the guide for TCI!
Kiev, 3 million people, ancient origin, the mother of Russia, was the first city where Vladimiro left for the construction of the empire, where in 988 was baptized in the river which crosses the city and gave a boost to the international recognition of Russia then.
From the airport to reach the city for 30 km along a road that crosses a huge part wooded. Finished expanse of plants you can see the first houses, some modern (they are the rich who build their houses outside the city), but most are dilapidated, they give the impression of being semi-abandoned, but are inhabited. The salary of an employee with responsibilities of prestige is less than € 200 per month.
As we enter the city in neighborhoods built prefabricated concrete slabs will appear before our eyes, is housing, is a home for people. Viewed from the outside do not appear well kept, who knows the interior .....
Continuing towards the center passes through the industrial area, the state of abandonment and neglect, view from the street, is high, it seems to be in an Italian film of the early'50s. By bus, one enters the city, the guide is called Dalia, decanta his nation by highlighting the positive aspects, some frecciatina towards the management of the years of communism. The bus stops, begins a visit to the city.

We stop at the church of St. Elias, built in the ninth century. rebuilt in 1700, the icons are of the'600-'800. The iconostasis was rebuilt. It 'the first church in Kiev. The impact with the Orthodox culture is strong, the rich decoration of these churches is truly remarkable, each of them is a small masterpiece, exploit knew so our Italian masterpieces ...
Leaving the church of St. Elias immediate right is the church of St. Nicholas along the river, the facade is in the Ukrainian Baroque style, is a church that was reopened for worship after the repression of the communist regime. The guide is sbilancia on the past?

We continue towards the center, you pass close to the university, we arrive at a square where there is a fountain with a statue of Samson fighting a lion (the original statue is kept at the national art gallery), we stop to visit the church Dormition of the Holy Virgin, the church is famous for ancient icons, inside there is only one of the original 3, the others are in museums Russians fly and St. Petersburg).
Yes again, it passes in the neighborhood of artists and close to the church of Sant'Andrea, which will return in the following days, the appearance of the neighborhood is charming, looks like Montmartre in Paris, stalls, artists, painters surround the pavements and squares of and steep cobbled street that climbs the hill where the church of Sant'Andrea. Yet we continue a little and come to Santa Sofia. The bus stops, drops, the eye sweeps the imposing entrance of the church, a blue and white tower in the Ukrainian Baroque style, with a large and spacious boulevard until the end of that where there is another building from the golden domes, the church San Michele, teaches us the guidance.
We enter in Santa Sofia, the court allows the view of the church so clear and clean the walls surrounding its beauty leaves you breathless, the white façade, green roofs, green columns, the contrast is strong, wonderful atmosphere infuses of kingship. The church built in 1037 (p. TCI. 16). Kiev in 1240 is invaded by the Mongols, the upper part of the city, where the church was destroyed but the church is saved, the interior was rebuilt in the Baroque period. Today the interior of the church is in its original form, only the floor has been replaced by tile iron, which gives a truly original look. The apse and the dome are covered with mosaics of the eleventh century. Originally had 1600 square meters. Mosaics, today there are 200 sqm. The mosaics are extremely rare in Ukraine and are a truly amazing beauty, the primary color, in addition to gold, is the red / green. The iconostasis is wooden gilded Baroque. Inside the room is a church dedicated to San Michele, the church of the thirteenth century. Destroyed in the Soviet domination to make room for a building with key political function. Are preserved mosaics of the thirteenth century. Transferred before the destruction, whose colors are green / blue part of the same were transported to museums in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
It starts to rain, the trip is subject to change, you go to see the church of St. Vladimir, who converted in 988 introduced Catholicism in Russia, the church built in 1870 in neoclassical style neobizantino and contains frescoes by local painters, the most famous is the baptism of Vladimir.
Finally we arrive at the hotel, Hotel President, is the majestic 10-storey, semi-enter it, only a portion of the bar and the casino will be under utilized, I do not know if it is only a period of dead, but felt that the guide told us in on the monthly salary, we assume that the great lords for them. We evaluate the prices of drinks in kiosks, really low one third less than that from us ....
Traditional Ukrainian dinner, vegetables, meat, dessert, all served quickly. We have the time for evening excursion, we move toward the center of the city. The contrast is strong ranging from homes filled with brick cladding to the buildings of the eighteenth century and rich ornamental artefacts, palaces vintage Soviet gloomy and gray, up to modern building with huge windows. The stores are still more markedly the difference, ranging from sellers of cigarettes (even single), the tables where drinks are selling seats on the pavements of the roads up to modern shops with the latest generation mobile phones.

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Kiev - 2nd part

Here too is the proportion confirmed West, 5% of the population owns 95% of wealth, but here the contrast is high, the middle class and indeed non-existent, you see only the rich and the poor.
Walking about the streets of the city is known as the well-kept buildings are lit, a great example to enhance the beauty of Italy, the streets are wide and clean, people are quiet, some people are a little tipsy for beer flowing in rivers, but nothing to worry about. It 'nice to walk, we are in a market open 24 hours, only flowers, fish and caviar. It is, from the view over the city, you see the wind on a car of great vialone city.

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Kiev

Continue over the city, houses more and more apparent contrast seen yesterday, the bricks are always full effect places next to buildings with colorful colors never strong, white is always present, but all'azzurro approached, the green, pink, yellow to infuse the city a fresh vision.
The first stop is the church of St., is the first Catholic Church and running, St. Nicholas is the second pass to get from the synagogue, demonstrating that Kiev has always been a cosmopolitan city of international renown, pass by vast Independence Square where preparations are under way of celebration of Independence to be held August 24. Shortly before the church by passing exhibition center in Kiev. The church of St. has a neoclassical structure, the inside is completely bare and white, are manufactured to the capitals, frescoes of the 4 gospels dating from 900 are the sides of the dome, there is some context, a few statues. After the richness of Orthodox churches to enter into a church is really striking strips.
Not far away we stop at the Monastery of San Michele, built in the seventeenth century., Placed in front of St. Sophia, the color is white and blue inside the church are mosaics and frescoes of the seventeenth century. Some frescoes have been remade in recent periods (the'700 and'800), iconostasis dell'800 .. Outside there is a refectory with the roof scagliola wood, the structure is old and retains its charm, is currently in a religious ceremony accompanied by a choir, we stop to listen. Going inside the monastery we visit the chapel of St. Michael Ukrainian embroidery which preserves the local tradition, each distinguished by an embroidery color accompanies a particular episode in the life of every person. Visit the museum shop full of icons dating dall'800, a question arises, are true or false for tourists? Nobody buys and now we take away the doubt ....
Turning into the Pinacoteca Ukraine where we discover that the word icon means the window, the guide is smart and allows us to learn many things. The evolution of historical icons, starting from the sixteenth century. Where were carved and then in the seventeenth century. Becoming paintings without background and in the eighteenth century. Be three dimensional. Passing in the halls we see the evolution of the Ukrainian until the twentieth century .. The orgogliosità of the young state (12 years) appears in enthusiasm of the guide openly condemning the crimes perpetuated by the Communist regime.
The day continues with lunch in a typical restaurant where this garlic cream kills its victims (the subsequent search of candy and chewing gum is great ..).
Return to the tour of the city, the Judas us through neighborhoods that were destroyed by fire in 8''. Then he tells us of extermination carried out by the Nazis between 1941 and 1945. Kiev in 1941 had 800,000 inhabitants, and in 1945 170.000, the Nazis wanted to destroy Ukraine to take possession of the mineral wealth of the subsoil. Symbolic and dramatic is the monument erected in memory of the extermination.
The edge of town is a hill on which stands the church of St. Cyril (who introduced the new write Cyrillic), with frescoes of the seventeenth century., Baroque facade, covered in frescoes recently between 700 and 800 Today about 750 square meters of frescoes are visible, marble iconostasis and icons (oil painting on zinc), capitals and sometimes with floral motifs.
We stop to see the arch of riapacificazione between Ukraine and Russia, from the square you see the panorama of Kiev low, the river in the distance and the residential area.
Nell'attraversare the city we have seen repeatedly the construction of Soviet domination, the palace of exhibitions, the museum of World War 2, the ministries, all imposing buildings.
The bus leaves us in Independence Square, is covered on foot, along the street stalls of all kinds, soft drinks and cigarettes are the most present. In the subways of crossing the road is any sort of stand by CD (Floid Pink, Santana, Celentano ....) to nail polish and lipstick. Approaching the covered market is the farmers who sell vegetables in their garden, leaning on wooden crates. The drama and poverty could not be more symbolic representation. The contrast with the Merdedes running shops and increasingly globalized is strong.
In the evening after dinner the group decided to visit the monuments lit, I decided to stay at the hotel to write the first pages of this trip, at about 23.15 I finished the first two days.

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Kiev - 1st part

It 'the time zone you feel? Is no fatigue of the day before that manifests itself in the eyes sleepy faces before breakfast, luckily the food and coffee are effective and are quickly resumed.
Along the way to the Monastery of the Caves spend in front of important buildings in Kiev, the National Bank building a new Russia, not far we stop to see the garden of the presidential palace and the palace itself. The palace was built in 1750 from Italian Bartolomeo Rastrelli (Florentine architect, who built the biggest buildings of the tsar in the eighteenth century.) Palace was the residence of the Tsars when coming to Kiev, after the revolution of 1918 has destroyed the walls of garden and the palace was looted of its contents today after a restoration is used for official receptions.
While traveling in buses or on foot is pleasing to note the Slavic population, the physiognomy of the people, the beauty of men and women.
We arrive at the Monastery of the Caves, a complex of buildings on land with an extension of 22 hectares which occupies several hills with various provisions of the buildings, all fortified with a double wall (in the Russian monasteries were religious and defensive). Impressive is the entrance, just past the door, the view takes away the breath, a series of buildings with roofs with onion domes and gilded and richly frescoed emerge from a number of houses with white shades of green roofs and manicured gardens in front, seems to be in an enchanted world, in a fable.
Above the door there is the Church of the Trinity, there are frescoes in very detailed, with walls of wooden chairs for monks recalls the Western monasteries.
Leaving the church within walking distance is a green and white building site of a hospital, then there is a white building with green roof is the home of the economy and close the door on a building in the Ukrainian Baroque style, in which placed on the first floor there is a church of the Holy Trinity with frescoes of the seventeenth century. Ukrainian style, the colors are dark, vivicizzati only dall'aureola of saints, the wooden iconostasis red has a history unknown (the red, then you will discover the color, the color more important for Russian culture), much Part of the icons have been removed during the communist period.
Going over the immense monastery you arrive at the Cathedral of the Resurrection she Madonna, at the center of the upper part of the monastery is an imposing, white with gold decorations and frescoes outside, the golden onion domes reflecting the sun in the morning, the origin of the church is the sixteenth century., destroyed in World War II is under restoration and renovation. Iconostasis of'700 in gilded wood, so far the most majestic views is a true masterpiece.
Leaving are walking in the courtyard and entered the church of St. Theodosius, structure of the 800, was the winter the monks' refectory, the frescoes reminiscent of the dark church of the Holy Trinity, next to a local church with frescoes on the walls, depicting important episodes from the life of the monastery. These buildings during the communist period had been used as a museum of atheism and frescoes covered with plaster, were reported today to the original splendor. Symbol of recovery of the people ucranino, safeguarding and enhancement of the huge local artistic heritage.
We are always in the Lavra monastery on us (with the city streets) above, all the streets are paved internal or pebbles, and this right to be called "city streets." We stop on the apron inside the monastery to admire the landscape from above, the vision is impressive, the hills gently decline towards the river, plants emerging from the golden onion domes of the buildings of the lower part of the Monastery. On the square there are many sellers of honey and derivatives, production and processing of honey is a long local tradition. Some bees fly around the product as if to signify the goodness of the product, some insects are a little too close to us, perhaps it is better not to dwell too much around. It falls at the bottom, following the trend of the hill, after a lined piece of land planted with fruit trees and grapes you reach a small square, the women were told to dress in a manner which is well covered and to obtain a scarf to cover her head, you enter a building, equipped with candles we go into those caves that were (hence the name of the Monastery), which lie close cuniculi monks have died, some are mummified, in some cases appear in the wall a small hole behind there was a place (a cave), where some monks carried out the hermit end until death. Next to each icon urna reproduces monaco (a replacement of the current picture). The course is very suggestive, there is a great faith and devotion in the Ukraine, the difference between them and the tourists is substantial, they are there to pray, look at us, sometimes it seems to me to be an intruder, of violating their rites. At the end of the route feasible, other galleries are reserved only for monks or those who want to go and pray on urn containing some monks to whom the people are very devout, exit outside, the air is clean and fresh, retrace the ascent and also leave the defensive wall of the monastery.
E 'lunchtime, the restaurant plays a farm, it's fun and pleasant, the waiters are dressed in traditional clothes, food and simple but tasty (salad, soup, main course, dessert).
Yes again, turn to Kiev, the parks are numerous and all lampposts adorned with cast iron, very beautiful to see, we come to the church of St. Andrew, in the district of artists in which we passed on the first day, the church is Set on a hill, was built by Rastrelli in 1750 for the specific intention of the imperial family, the interior retains the characteristic of the imperial style of the time, the Ukrainian Baroque style, a few frescoes, there is the unusual presence of the pulpit, l 'interior is white and light blue, the capitals are decorated with floral motifs and decorative windows are golden. The iconostasis is in red (the imperial color) with golden columns and cornices.
Abandoned the Church of St. Andrew we are to another hill where we find a square with the foundations of the city's first church, dating to the eleventh century., There is a park under a lime tree and there is a player of Bandula, Ukrainian musical instrument, similar to a mandolin dish. Dalia tells the tragic story of the players Bandula massacred during the Soviet period. Originally they were blind or who become blind warriors held to survive the activity of storytellers. The stories were accompanied by singing it. Between them they used a code that is used for teaching is to talk to another. During Soviet rule, the regime realized that these people had their own code of communication, a conference was organized in Kiev, all the singers who participated in the evening were loaded on a train and deported to Siberia where they died from the cold. The ancient oral tradition was so destroyed, today there is a state institution where some young people are studying the instrument and the songs that came up to us. Throughout Ukraine are only 30 players Bandula using this historic instrument.

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Kiev - 2nd part

Not far is the palace-style socialist Russian museum that contains the history of Ukraine, devoted to national history. We find that salt starting from the Stone Age, Bronze age, the Romans, to the nomadic tribes have made the ancient history of Ukraine. Then the Tartars, the Cossacks to achieve the revolution of 1918 and the present day. Very beautiful are the rooms that contain artistic, gold glass, ceramics, coprilibri, objects varies.
E 'half the afternoon when we reach the river port city, c'imbarchiamo on a boat for a panoramic tour of the city. One sees Kiev low, the golden roof of the spire of St. Andrew, the grandeur and extent of the buildings of the Monastery of the Caves, the imposing statue of the Mother Country (in stainless steel and high 102 mt.) Kinds of trees a hill there are the domes of St. Cyril, the neighborhoods with their houses prefabricated concrete wall rising on the other side of the river, in the middle of the river an island with long sandy beach serves as the city's residents, along the river you see a series of pedestrian bridges from one to the subway to that for cars. Fishermen are present on both sides in the river on board of small boats or rafts. Only a few motorboats motor runs on water, even in this social side the gap is unknown. After the homes of neighborhoods began industrial areas, rich in plants for naval activities and the creation of artefacts for the construction industry.
Returned on buses, in return pass on Independence Square and the main street seems completely changed compared to previous days, are being prepared for the National Day of Independence, which begins tomorrow.

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Moscow

Alarm at 4.00, the program provides quick breakfast, lunch line at the fast, the bar is full of foodstuffs, egg tarts, croissants, fruit juices, eat two eggs to recover from decidedly light dinner the evening before.
You leave for the airport, the city at night takes on a different face than the evening, the buildings are no longer illuminated, from the top of the hill you can see only the street lighting, it seems to me a more familiar, lighting only of the ways.
At boarding is facilitated by the presence of Sandro that with a good English accelerates procedures for boarding, we start with a Aerosvit flight aboard a Boeing, Tupolev on the flight was postponed to future trips. The airport of Kiev seems not to international flights, but on the other is for international flights from a few years and it is unthinkable that alter the structure: they have adapted to the fullest. Before the Soviet organization was different from Kiev leaving only domestic flights. The confirmation when I come to Moscow, the airport is not very large and organized more than semitrasandato of Luxor in Egypt. We meet our guide in Moscow, Alina, who explains that quest'aeroporto was intended only to domestic flights and Kiev was considered internal to Russia. The international airports of Moscow are the other dimensions and other (not the way we found as we leave Moscow aboard a train), I accept the clarification but suffered from well-known that poverty in Russia is much greater than that of 'Ukraine. Closer to Moscow, I noticed the wooden houses, almost a village of houses with gardens, the state of neglect is remarkable, though inhabited are neglected in painting over the windows, and roof in the channels and in the garden. Even here you see the concrete prefabricated houses, all identical, and all seeds neglected.
The hotel is located 17 km from the center, surrounded by palaces inhabited by families, seem better finished homes built in the'60s by Krusciof, homes above and given in tribute to people who until then lived in several families for each apartment. The hotel is newly built, its splendor seems at odds with the adjacent buildings, but we have the Euro and the rub their ......
Lunch, the usual salad, soup and dessert seconds, the menu in Russia is not very varied, and after lunch starts around the capital of Russia. The first step is the Monastery of the Virgin, on the way the guide explains some terms to better understand the Russian civilization. The monastery buildings were religious purposes but also to protect the public from raids of the Mongols. The Kremlin means fortress, and every city in Russia has its Kremlin. The color red is the most important of all means and powers (eg, Red Square, red flag ...)
Through the town we come to the Monastery of the Virgin (TCI pp. 106), inside the church of Our Lady of Smolensk iconostasis contains the most beautiful of Moscow, an icon dedicated to the Virgin of sweetness of the sixteenth century, it's beautiful setting golden, with 16 contour figures which represented the life of Jesus, the refined art of the icons here is one of the greatest expressions. In the cloister of the church have the opportunity to listen to a choir, the acoustics are excellent, and the wonderful performance and great charm, offering CD rates are equivalent to the Italian CD, just a cost to be excessive in Russia. All land within the monastery is characterized by grave, buried the characters are important in the history of Russia and the tradition that wants to be buried here you must be without sin.
I realize that in Moscow the tourists be tantamount to be plucking chickens for the offer price to all Italians, when the salary of a Moscow is 300 € / month. Beside the monastery is the second cemetery in order of importance for Moscow. Return to the bus and we head on the Hill Passeri (TCI pp. 115) from where we can admire from the landscape of Moscow. The yard is flat for brides, the Judas explains another custom of the Russians, the bride arriving by car belonging to normal class poor, those who arrive in Limusinne the middle class and the wealthy rather rent a whole boat. From the square you can admire the landscape of the city, is truly a great loss of an eye, emerging only from the city palaces and golden domes of the various churches, in the middle of the river flowing Moscova quiet. Immediately adjacent to the square you see the springboard for ski jump built for the Moscow Olympics of 1980, the palace and the university (TCI pp. 116), one of the 7 highest buildings in Moscow wanted from Stalin.
At the end of the square is the church of the Holy Trinity, inside coated with gold icons, the church dates back to the early'800, is one of the few churches remained after the communist period. Moscow had 400 churches and was called the city of golden domes. Having observed the few churches that remain, see the assumption of 400 churches, each with 5 golden domes, the show had to be really fascinating.
We continue looking around the Palace of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (between 7 other Palace highest of Moscow), the seat of TASS, the theater Bolsoj (TCI pp. 84), descend from the coach and c'incamminiamo to Red Square (p. TCI . 58), the imposing square is partially closed for possible attacks, but shows its grandeur, in the middle you see the Mausoleum of Lenin, in front of the GUM department store (TCI pp. 58) with the figure of Christ the Savior of place front of the Mausoleum of Lenin (Lenin big joke?), finally, placed in the bottom of the square, opened at the corner, the magnificent church of San Basilio (TCI pp. 61). We visit the interior of the historic church and we can admire the frescoes brought to light only recently, the domes are still being restored and we can see the state of degradation into which poured the whole building.
After the first day are the differences between Ukraine and Russia, not only historical differences, but cultural, social, structural. They are two different states and even the mentality of different looks, we'll see in the coming days.

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Moscow

It starts at 9.00 on time the day is interesting, the first stop is the Cathedral of Christ the Savior on Blood poured (TCI pp. 88). E 'a church rebuilt with the money of private individuals and was completed in 2000. Entirely in local white marble, has an important, interior completely frescoed and gilded. Iconostasis of white marble, finely inlaid wooden door and golden arches of the interior doors are brown marble worked. In a room are all the names of the soldiers who fought the war of 1812 against Napoleon. The domes covered with 40 kg of gold are seen in the distance.
We pass close to a market where Muscovites can buy non-branded apparel, the contrast with the large and rich stores of the center is significant, a series of small "shops" where you can find everything just a few rubles.
We continue to explore the city by going to the Gallery Tetroakov (TCI pp. 117), to see the mosaics from Kiev, a wide range of icons (TCI p. 30).. We explain that nell'icona the light comes from within. The gallery only works by Russian artists. is really interesting to see and understand the culture of this great state.
Lunch, always salad, soup, main course, dessert, fast, tight as sardines in a restaurant Russian / Chinese, who knows what the recycling of food have made .. The room is crammed only Italians, be a tourist sometimes leads to real surprises.
You depart for the Monastery Andronikov (TCI pp. 103), the monastery was a school of icons, and seat of the spiritual father of Ivan the Terrible. Today houses a museum of icons, where you can admire the works exhibited chronologically.
Not far away another group of fortifications is the monastery of Novospasskij (TCI pp. 104). Women have access to the church, being a place of worship, had to wear a scarf and who had his trousers and long skirts are not up to the ankles to wear an apron. We visit the church of San Salvatore, the frescoes are original and not restored, the church has a real aspect of living museum, not as many views before, we simply observe the cloister because the church has banned tourists. Some buildings of the monastery is being restored.
We go out and walking away, at the suggestion of Don Maurizio, let's see Kiutiokoe podvore unì'antica residence for clergy (TCI pp. 105), although the building on our leadership Touring is unknown to Alina, our guide, that curious and is surprised to see you too. The property is in a state of considerable neglect, the church is the scaffolding for this work but seem to them a long time, the building consists of a church in a Russian-style building and a covered loggia and causeway connecting the palace the church. The palace is a Russian-style brick.
In the evening after dinner we depart by bus for a tour of Moscow by night, is truly impressive run for the city at night and can see many details that during the day would surely be leaked to the quantity of works to be seen. We begin with the Hill dell'Adda (TCI pp. 115), where a bronze obelisk 141.80 meters high, dedicated to the days of World War II, 1418 days), continue to the Hill of Passeri, wonderful view on the illuminated city, we stop at the Monastery of the Virgin, where they were locked wives of nobles who wish to remarry, adjacent to the monastery there is a pond, the reflection of the lake is truly enchanting. This is followed by St. Basil and the Kremlin, which unfortunately is not illuminated, then a quick visit to Red Square, to our surprise that it is completely transenna therefore not passable as the day before.
It falls that are the 23.30, the time for a refreshing rest and tomorrow .......

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Moscow

After a hearty breakfast we start at 9.15, we head out of town, the traffic in the opposite direction is substantial, huge queues, I bring to mind the traffic in our cities would be an illusion, but even here the traffic is congested.
Leaving you can see forests of birch and pine trees, the plain is endless, you can see the isbe, the houses of the peasants with an adjacent piece of land to cultivate and dacie, the second homes of Moscow, most of them are wood , some (for the rich) are brick (Dacia in a wood of 80 square meters per floor, arranged on 2 floors cost 26,000 rubles, less than € 900). You see old wooden houses, perhaps isbe, are colorful, have windows and inlaid painted white, with around a piece of land, showing elegance and finesse constructive.
The day is uggiosa, Drizzle, sometimes too hard, it's funny to note that all the water of the roof, through channels linked to the gutters is downloaded directly onto sidewalks and streets as a collection.
You arrive after 70 km to the city of San Sergio, where the homonymous Monastery Sergiev Posad (TCI pp. 132), is imposing a real fortress, the mighty walls and white defense shield well inside buildings, only the gold domes emerge. Enter after paying the ticket and the charge to take pictures (custom spread to all the tourist attractions in Russia, for the photos you pay 100 rubles, 3 €, we are just plucking of chickens by ....). The complex is really big and beautiful, stands out of the blue walls, white and gold of the domes in the center a number of smaller buildings, all finely decorated and the fountain of Santa. We start the tour with the Cathedral of the Trinity (TCI pp. 134), the look is a dark strong odor of burnt wax (use pure wax candles, and with a high percentage of honey), no electric lighting in ' building, the icons are enlightened only by votive lamps, the suggestion is great, you have the opportunity to see the actual status of the churches without the artificial lighting of lamps, frescoes completely dark church, the silver urn of San Sergio finely chiselled is also illuminated only by candles, it seems bleak, one sees the great devotion of the faithful have in Santo. The next building is the refectory (TCI pp. 134), the interior is entirely decorated with frescoes and gilded stucco and silver. At the heart of the monastery there is the Cathedral of the Assumption (TCI pp. 135) that we visit, there are important within frescoes and an exhibition of icons devotional purposes, some are valuable dating back to the eighteenth century. which appears in the three-dimensional size.
Leaving the Cathedral we hurry to fill the plastic bottles we had brought with the water that flows from a fountain which is considered the Miraculous Water.
Lunch takes place in a restaurant where classic furniture in birch wood praises.
It falls to Moscow, leaving a look at the beautiful monument. Once in town we visit the underground (TCI pp. 109), we stop to see some stations, all different one from the other, a true work of art underground, the trains are every 90 seconds, speed, spring, are about 16 and the convoys are semipieni, I wonder what crowd crowd the wagons and the entire network during peak hours because the subway is the main means of transport of Moscow especially in cold periods. The access and the flow is feasible with fast and steep escalators. To admire the civic education of the Russians, who enters or who falls on escalators is positioned to the right of themselves, leaving them free passage to those who want to run.
Leaving the subway, the bus takes us to do a lap in a street dedicated to shops, it rains, it cool, someone enters the store, rather than to warm to purchase, prices are sometimes above average. Let us go by bus to the hotel, a group decides to go to the circus, I want to return to continue the diary. In return is an incredible traffic, the six lanes per direction are all full, you proceed slowly, I do not know the rate of pollution, but I assume it is high. From the coach stopped in the long and endless queues, there is the possibility to observe scenes of daily life, the height of the medium offers a privileged view. A curious, windows (double for the cold) does not have a central opening two doors are closed, open only on the right side (from inside) for about 1 / 5 scale, this particular is also windows in a modern double glazing, it will be to allow ventilation during the cold winter months?

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Moscow

We start at 8.50 to the Kremlin, we are now bottled in traffic, it rains, it is slow, you see people on the street with no umbrella, auspicherà the nice weather and do not have an umbrella? Traveling slowly, you can observe the habits of Moscow, the character is different from the Ukrainians, the features are more marked the faces less attractive, older people tend to strengthen, the effect of beer and food?
Finally we arrive at the Kremlin (TCI pp. 65), in the rain we put ourselves in a queue to switch control of the agents of the KGB. Enter, is the impression of being in a vast protected area outside the walls, we do a quick lap, there are files for each building and at every point photographically interesting. Impressive are the cannon and the Tsar bell of Elizabeth I, the largest in the world and both unusable: We visit the Church of the Annunciation (TCI pp. 71) are gilded frescoes of the life of Madonna, the iconostasis is carved and golden. the feeling is to be in a golden room, breathtaking. Once access was restricted only to the noble, exquisite finish of the wooden throne reserved for the ruler of Moscow.
We go out under the water and we head towards the church of the early church is a wholly frescoed portico, the portals are decorated with blue floral copper and gold.
We continue the tour with the church of San Michele (TCI pp. 74), the frescoes are less heavy than the previous ones iconostasis is the latest with a red background and golden.
We continue the tour seeing the treasure of Russia (TCI pp. 75), a true masterpiece of high silver and breathtaking, exciting and unique infinite, the value of jewelry is priceless. Certainly not inferior to the artistic beauty is the treasure of Tsar (TCI pp. 74) a priceless collection of clothes, carriages, thrones, crowns, scetri, finely chiselled arms, furniture, clothing and sacred vestments of Imperial Russia.
Released stopped raining, you see the blue sky, we stop for lunch on a boat moored on the river Moscova by boat you can see the city and put a factory on the banks of the river. In the afternoon, having free time I decide to join those who will visit the Pushkin Museum (TCI pp. 121), the beautiful Egyptian hall, that of growth with cuneiform writing and seals, the paintings by Italian Renaissance, the paintings of Impressionism is the first time I admire them in their beauty and tranquility are pleased to have received this opportunity. Superb Priamo of the Treasury, only for this reason to come to Moscow.
The return to the hotel is practically a long queue to 6 lanes, 17 km walk them in 2 hours, if we went we used to walk less time, we do not complain about the traffic in Milan.

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Moscow

Before leaving the hotel make a last lap by quarter, time is uggioso, look high above the buildings and see the threads that attract my attention, are the wires of the phone that unlike us, the stakes are not placed on road but on the roof of the buildings, strange habit, I think it is related to the rigidity of the winters and abundant snowfall.
We leave the hotel and take the ring road (total length 109 km) to direct Kolomenskee (TCI pp. 125), enter the park and it has a dense rain, we head towards the church of Our Lady of Kazan, but there is a religious function, and entry is prohibited, we continue towards the wooden houses, visit one of Peter the Great, built of wood without the use of nails, between the logs were placed hemp to prevent the passage of air, all 'This is an internal furnishings of the eighteenth century., beautiful tiled stoves, the bed and the desk. They have rebuilt one of the study, a library and a dining room.
We continue to visit the local museum where they kept the wood and ceramic models of real wood in the first inhabited dell'800 when the capital was St. Petersburg. There are windows with glass in the mica, tools, locks, clothing, decorations and icons carved in wood.
Left the museum, we visit the church of Our Lady of Kazan, contains icons of the Madonna, are much revered and is considered protective of the family, outside the church of women seeking love. Inside the church there is a religious function, is a song, the sound is excellent, the singing consuming, is a funeral.
It falls to the city for lunch, I notice that despite the rain, the Russians continue to work undeterred, must use the few summer months, a few weeks the cold will be felt and the external works will be suspended. We stop in front of the church of San Basilio, ne opportunity for a visit to Russia with its 3000 rooms is the largest hotel in the world, meeting within the components of Frecce Tricolore, I will talk with them, then under the water I am going to the first home of the Czar in Moscow, a small building near the Kremlin.
By bus, shared, we spend close to the Duma, the national parliament, arrived in the square of the station, three stations, one with departures to the south of Russia, the other to Siberia, from where the famous Trans-Siberian train, and the last station in the direction of our St. Petersburg.
As we approach our wagon can observe in a train near the bed of the wagon trains Soviet obtain a coated thickness of a small padded which is placed on a mattress and blankets, something decadent, some compartments are occupied by people who sleep, who knows where the train is headed?
From the dock to board the train needs to be done very carefully the distance requires a good step and the gap is significant in more than 1.5 meters, if someone were to slip, I think we can do serious harm, strange customs, the railways in Russia ....
Alina salute, our guide in Moscow, and to 16.30 starting from absolute punctuality seems to be in Switzerland. While I watch the travel distance separating Moscow from St. Petersburg, 730 km, the train should arrive at 21.53, we will see. The wagon on which travel is a single compartment, 64 seats, carpets on the floor. The train travels fast, northward through the huge Russian territory, the campaign is really endless, as are the forests of birch trees and conifers, you see some villages isbe, to St. Petersburg beginning of the gentle hills, the land Sometimes it is waterlogged, the rivers are many lakes such as we see. In countries that I see the train, the roads are paved only major, the lateral and internal roads are of earth that the rain will turn into mud, the sun appears infinite blue of the sky finally after days uggiosi. We arrive on time in St. Petersburg, 730 km and not a minute's delay, without words, that our railways!
We find that Judah will be with us for the city, Nikita, a man who studied medicine in Milan at the state, leads us to the hotel, set on a road 13 km long, the hotel is great, great, I read the guide that 1000 rooms, it's crowded and seems to offer many services, it looks almost regret "intimacy" of Kiev, where we practically had to sleep alone. The European culture of St. Petersburg has had just set foot outside the station, the lights, the people, the clothes are different from the cold, gray and retrograde Moscow. How to say, we got on the train in a size and descend from the same in another. More than a train trip seems like a journey through space and time. We will see if it will be tomorrow evening will be confirmed.

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Moscow

The impression of the evening that St. Petersburg is a cosmopolitan city different from Moscow is broadly confirmed by the breakfast that is in a hotel, a multitude of foodstuffs, and assorted rich, breakfast takes place in a room that seems destined to evening performances and is a kind of factory beer.
The day is rainy, watching the program I think we expect a nice bath! During the trip, Nikita teaches us of life in St. Petersburg, Moscow and other not only for the time and the light, in winter only 5 hours of light per day, while summer can be reached 21 hours of light We are above the 60th parallel and the height you see the sunset in the evening arriving around 22.00. In St. Petersburg the average salary is € 130 per month, the board € 50, so the museum security guards are all retired, to round off the board.
We arrive at Pedrodvorec (TCI pp. 268), along the way we view the gardens and the rear of the Palace (known as the Versailles of the North). We arrive to us in the queue in the rain, here the museums open at 10.30, 10.00 it is the opportunity for taking pictures, you never know with extremely variable quessto time ..... Begins to enter, some groups will exceed the Judas tells us that just giving a tip to the person in charge (€ 50) to enter first, the bribes are universal I think. The controller is a person of middle age by not very happy .... After 1.30 hours in a row in a beautiful piogerellina we enter, in the Palazzo Grande, we pause to let the wet raincoats and umbrellas in the cloakroom, then wear the overshoes so as not to damage the parquet floor that characterizes the building. Is accessed within the staircase Gala, completely frescoed with gilded stucco and parquet floor, is the Russian Baroque style characterizes the palace and makes him decidedly attractive, most of our buildings that have floors of marble. Turn to huge rooms and decorated, a true splendor of beauty, is a curious audience hall, small compared to the other and increase the prospect was put mirrors on the walls are clearly seen up to seven times, a nice optical fantasy Italian architect Rastrelli is known. In the dining room service for 30 people English is composed of 196 pieces of precious china and crystal. Stupendi are chandeliers of Bohemian crystal and amethyst. Different style now seems like the middle of the room where the walls are hung in a uniform manner without creating continuity solution: 368 square well. When you reach the end turn to the study of oak belonged to Peter the Great, the atmosphere, the heat, the energy of the mind refers to the study of Urbino Duke Federico of Montefeltro.
We left the palace for a tour the gardens and admire the many fountains found near the building of Monplairis (summer residence of Peter the Great), we can take a look at the Gulf of Finland, large vision without boundaries on the sea, I understand why Peter the Great wanted in this wonderful position his summer residence, a lover of navigation and the sea as he could not choose better view. Near the building there is a fountain that the passage of people and suddenly gush so divided, the jokes were fashionable in the eighteenth century ..
In the lunch in the palace built by Rastrelli joining Grande Palazzo dell'Aquila pavilion with the Emperor. It is again to St. Petersburg during the trip can better observe the waterlogged area, not completely drained, it passes alongside lakes covered with reeds or water lilies, we see a palace of the czar, now restored and the summer residence of the President of Russia, pass before an immense naval military school, now abandoned for lack of funds. Nikita explains other sights of Russia, the food shops are open 24 hours, the outskirts of St. Petersburg is made up of neighborhoods dormitory buildings with at least 9 floors in the city the highest height is 5 floors (excluding the building of the KGB) , in the apartments there is a widespread cohabitation of families with shared bathroom and kitchen. In recent years, prices have been subject to inflation of 6200%. Currently the prices of housing and goods considered luxury (cars, motorcycles, clothes imported ....) are expressed in U.S. dollars. Nikita c'illustra While these aspects of life we approach the center of town, we stop, there's tail, it seems crazy traffic, the three lanes to six lanes sense become mono directional, the cars in the opposite direction to our travel on the sidewalk, someone tries a reversal further blocking traffic, is the entropy of the traffic! E 'divertente watch it all the coaches. A tram is stopped, he stopped, the people down, it moves towards the subway, you see the incredible calm and resignation of these people, as if everything happens as if the problems were a normal thing. Someone takes advantage of the block to adjust the car must prepared and mechanically to the center of the road, a custom very common in St. Petersburg. In the end we discover that this chaos is caused by a traffic jam at an intersection ... We can resume the march, we made in the harbor, St. Petersburg, walk along its channel to the Piazza of Saint and the Cathedral of Saint (TCI pp. 192), the square is the equestrian monument dedicated to Tsar Nicholas I, we continue the tour to return to the hotel, the feeling is that St. Petersburg is a perfect mixture between Venice and its canals and Vienna, with its palaces of the'700 and'800, a good mix of culture, art, tradition , history.
The evening I stopped at the hotel to continue the diary when someone came out to see the city at night. Tomorrow, the program includes a visit all'Ermitaz, it is better to read something about the building and the museum, I do not want to be unprepared for an appointment so important.

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St. Petersburg - 1st part

Point at 9, oo par depart the city center, arrive in a short time, always calculating the immense traffic, near the palace dell'Ermitaz (TCI pp. 249), the entrance is located along the river to the Winter Palace . We are among the first to enter, start the visit with the imposing staircase of the Ambassadors, in the Russian Baroque style, the stairs are in Carrara marble, the pillars of gray marble monoliths, the frescoed ceiling. We enter the halls of the Czar, are of porcelain and the crowning wooden horse, is made of wood gilded and colored red (the imperial color). We continue in Little Ermitaz (TCI pp. 255) with the small throne room, niche semicupolare for the throne, parquet floors, gilded stucco and tapestries. The hall of the so called blazons coats of arms for the seats on the chandeliers, is a huge room of 800 square meters. With columns and gilded chandeliers of rock crystal. Another room contains artefacts that are masterpieces of all reveal a wooden table inlaid with mother of pearl, tortoise shell and gold. We proceed in a room with 332 pictures of the same artist, representing the senior officers who fought in the war of 1812 against Napoleon, the frames are empty with only the written name, the officers are killed in battle. This is followed by a hall of St. George, the old throne room of the Russian Baroque style, the fresco on the ceiling is faithfully reported in the parquet, the columns are in Carrara marble. Another room where there are huge pots in lapis lazuli and malachite. It comes to room of the Pavilion, home to Catherine II (TCI pp. 257) in the Russian Baroque style, are a mosaic tables worked fine, in addition to the wonderful Peacock Clock, by the door you leave the small Ermitaz and you enter the Great Ermitaz where the Art Gallery of the Museum, the first part is devoted to Italian (TCI pp. 257), we see a copy of Raphael's loggia, astonishing beauty of the paintings of Leonardo da Vinci, Caravaggio and the sculpture of Michelangelo. In the art we see Russian masterpieces of furniture, a table in the lapis lazuli floor in block measuring 2.5 meters x 80 cm x 4 cm, supported by carved and gilded wood, a true spectacle can be observed. Tables and malachite vases, some vessels have a height of 2 meters in diameter and 1. Will then continue with the Spanish painting, where the Dutch are the paintings of Rembrandt, including the "The Prodigal Son" which was taken as a symbol for the jubilee year 2000. We continue with the French Impressionists, it ends with the paintings by Picasso of his Red period and futurism.
Continuing the tour of the building by visiting the apartments of the czar, the golden hall in the Russian Baroque style, the hall of crimson lesese (pillars of glass with colored tinfoil underneath the red) and green again in the Russian Baroque but with tapestry on the walls of golden, the lounge is also him in the Russian Baroque, the dining room with blue curtains and marble pillars, which divides it into three parts, we see a gilded wooden sledge, a corridor of tapestries. Before you leave visit the malachite room (there are 2 tons of ore), the pillars, the lining of the chimney, pots, furniture, everything strictly malachite.
You exit the palace museum, the impression is stunned by how much beauty we have seen, a very concentrated works of art, the most beautiful museum that has seen so far. We need to recognize the vision of Catherine II who began the great collection which has continued for decades.
Emerge from the Winter Palace (one of the five buildings that make up the complex dell'Ermitaz) and we left the perimeter until you reach the Piazza of the Palace, the building of Carlo Rossi (TCI pp. 190), the square is vast, one of the largest in the world, the historical memory of many events in which many very tragic that marked the history of Russia, the cross channel for entering and reporting to mind Venice, we come to the restaurant. Place on the first floor is a hall of the eighteenth century. The ceiling painting in oils, the walls of inlaid wood panels, stained glass windows are a mosaic, the chimney is carved in marble and the sides are decorated with ceramic tiles depicting characters rectangular, the tiles are interspersed always square vertically by a ceramic floral pattern, the hood is adorned with a finely inlaid wooden cover, in the hall are pillars of marble with floral motifs worked. Lunch reflects the Russian tradition, salad, soup, main course, dessert. At the end of lunch we leave for Pushkin, the race will stop soon, a car broken down in the middle of the road does not allow for the advance, after a few minutes the car is moved by hand and we can resume the march observing the driver of car which, as is customary in St. Petersburg, with a rag opened the hood and tries to adjust the engine, most people do not understand anything mechanical, but this is the custom.
In route we stop to see from outside the church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, Church of the Resurrection (TCI pp. 214), has an area of more than mosaics of San Marco in Venice. Return travel and Nikita has the opportunity, at our request, to speak of treatment in a hospital in Russia. Nikita is pulmonary physician, has made the sixth year of medicine in Italy (Milan, State University), is the Judas and is the coordinator of a center of modern art. It tells of hospital treatment, where patients must take medication at home, cutlery, pillows, bandages, syringes and food, that is, all you need for treatment, assistance is limited only to the care and feeding of any visit, nothing that respect of the person, I get the chills just thinking of getting sick in this country .....
Reach Puskin (TCI pp. 276), is a village located about 30 km from St. Petersburg, the palace is impressive, the size of the building recalls the Villa Reale in Monza, the style is baroque but Russian is the color that fascinates blue and white with the golden domes of the church, a show to leave you breathless, and they are! Blue, white, gold charms that a tricolor.
The palace was rebuilt after the devastation of World War II, the restoration in some salt is still in progress but the visit is a truly amazing beauty. Great room ceiling has a painting on canvas of 860 square meters, the Russian Baroque style is illuminated by many mirrors which expand the size. Leaving the Great Hall is an enchanting vision dell'Infilata gold, a number of apartments connected by doors left open to give the impression of a single, long corridor and isolated all in the Russian Baroque style where there stuccoes gold from the white wall and ceilings. The amber room smaller than only 52 square meters has completely coated the walls of amber that worked infuse infinite shades, for its restoration have been used 57 tonnes of ore. The rooms lesina in crimson and green stand out compared to previous ones, both for the originality of rakes for both the white damask that is placed on the walls at intervals of Hvar.
Left the palace we visit the gardens, other magnificent buildings are restored, the lakes are numerous and make the residence of the Tsar a truly enchanting place.
After visiting a Puskin is returned to St. Petersburg, outgoing traffic is high, long columns of cars carrying the city's residents at the dacie, the custom is that on Saturday and Sunday the Russians cultivate vegetable gardens at their second homes.

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San Pietroburgo - 2nd part

Return to hotel, time of change and we expect the evening in a typical restaurant.
We leave by bus to the center, along the road known men and women who enjoy walking calmly from beer bottles which take in hand, we find some small pile, most can be solved with a discussion, sometimes resulting in litigation. Volve the sun to sunset, with colors colors canals and palaces, impressive is the Winter Palace.
Dinner at a restaurant on the island more characteristic place in St. Petersburg, to find a bear embalmed that gives us the welcome dinner in the lounge where there is a duo that plays local music and knowing that we are in Italy, something for us. The restaurant has walls with wood panels to the square (about 1x1 m) depicting animals of the Russian tradition of two-man and the eagle, symbol of Russia, the ceiling is painted with a chandelier in the center mosaic, windows also enclose them with mosaics historical figures for Russia. The evening spent between food (salad, fresh salmon, main course, sweet, vodka and a glass wine) Russian songs, chants Russian ballet and a few improvised skit by members our group, headed by my dad of improvisers. The Italian and the fun has made sad smile even the Russians in the restaurant. The joy is contagious .......
The return to the hotel is at the evening, the lights illuminate the channels, the vision is striking, historic buildings illuminated so delicate make the unique atmosphere, the game of water and lights of St. Petersburg is a city truly unique.
Tomorrow will be a trip and then .... It is part of Italy.

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St. Petersburg - 1st part

Final day of the tour, I am sorry that we need to prepare the bags, turn Russia is fascinating and it would take much time to see what remains, this is just a small taste of beauty to see, perhaps a lifetime is not enough to study with this magnificent city, even though only 300 years, with its history, its buildings and its museums.
We load our luggage on this bus and start panoramic tour of the city, we head towards the center, the first stop we make the church Smolnyj (TCI pp. 223), is an impressive complex in the middle of being restored, it is impossible to access the church is being restored, but you have the possibility to observe the building before and after restoration, in fact just in front but still part of the complex there are two buildings can be seen the building restored to the right, one to our left lies in a state of degradation, as also were the buildings before the restoration and how many buildings are still in the streets of inner cities, although to tell the about to be told that the Russians have managed to recover and restore many important buildings belonging to the city. And those left to decay by malgestione policy, whether half or destroyed during the Second World War, a beautiful example of national historical memory to be retained for the aftermath.
Go ahead and see the garden in summer (TCI pp. 196), built by Peter the Great with 59 statues of the Italian eighteenth century .. Later we find the house of bricks built to protect the wooden house of Peter the Great (TCI pp. 235) dating to the early'700, when the emperor personally followed the construction of the first building of St. Petersburg, the Fortress of SS. Peter and Paul. Not far away are the moored cruiser Aurora (TCI pp. 236). We head towards the church of the Annunciation, through the industrial area of St. Petersburg, the state is semi-abandoned, next to a factory still in operation there are many abandoned buildings and half collapsed. Arrive at the Church of the Annunciation (TCI pp. 232), with an adjoining a cemetery in the city. We Ulica Rossi (Via Carlo Rossi) (TCI pp. 203) of a street with buildings in classical style, one of the most beautiful cities. We stop at the church of San Nicola (TCI pp. 216), the originality of rakes can be seen, the interior is beautiful and the view from the adjacent channel. We the Neva, the river in St. Petersburg, until you reach the old port (TCI pp. 227) where there are two columns that were rostrata ancient lighthouses for IWT. We reach the island of the hare, where the Fortress of SS. Peter and Polo (TCI pp. 180), we enter the impressive building and visit the church of SS. Peter and Paul (TCI pp. 181), is completely frescoed, including faux marble pillars, are the tombs of the tsars. Unusual is the presence of the pulpit is the second church in the whole tour where I see the pulpit (not even in the Catholic Church that I will then present), is in gilded wood. E 'presente il rosso golden canopy where Czar followed the ceremony, the wooden gilded iconostasis is under renovation, look at the tombs of the tsars in white Carrara marble except the tombs of the Tsar killed in attacks where the color is green and red. We continue the visit of the fortress, giving an insight into the Neva, on the other side you can see the buildings with their height of five floors give the city an urban look really attractive, above the buildings emerge until the onion golden spire of the church and 'high spire of Admiral. Leaving the island of hares, are right in front of the museum where military artillery, in the courtyard, there are a range of parts used in the Second World War. We continue the tour to the square of Museums (TCI p. 251.), So called because of the presence of several museums, at the heart of the beautiful square, place in a garden, there is the statue of Pushkin. Continue and see the building of the accordion in front of the bronze statue of Catherine II (TCI pp. 202). During the tour you could see many houses being restored, the city in a few years will have a really very beautiful. We see an ancient drawbridges were. Riding around the city is seen as all major roads are radial with the epicenter of Admiral Palace and its golden spire visible.
To accompany the group that comes with a flight before us, and salute them as we have 5 hours of time, with the help and advice for Nikita will take advantage to visit the center of St. Petersburg palace Jusupovki (TCI pp. 210). The palace was the richest family in Russia prerivoluzione, has a classical facade that looks over a canal, looking so I do not see this great beauty compared to other villas and palaces in the city. We start the visit by the floor, we enter into un'anticamera semicircular mirror, the game is impressive, to be here for a short hallway leads into the hall where it was converted to the conspiracy for the murder of Rasputin (TCI pp. 210). You enter this room feel a sense of not, the room is gloomy, dark, padded, the air is heavy as if a strong negativity hangs on it, few times have I seen such a disturbing feeling of negative energy concentrated in one place . Coming down the stairs, just under the plotters of the hall is the room where the murder was consummated. The walls are hung pictures and writings of Rasputin, the personal adviser of the Empress and Czar Nicholas II, loved and hated by kings from the nobles. In the two rooms, furnished with original furnishings were reconstructed the scene of the conspiracy and dell'avvelenamento of Rasputin, were placed in wax statues depicting the plotters and Rasputin, very faithful in reconstruction and in particular, even the desserts have been poisoned meticulously reconstructed .
And return to visit the home of these noble of Mongolian origin, the floor, let's start with the piano room, is decorated with gilded stucco end of'700 and early'800. French room with marble fireplace, doors and furniture in pear wood (wood difficult to work), the table is in working with wood cabinet-making, the fronts are machined cantilever. Library, frescoed ceiling, wall panels of finely carved wood, the room contained 40,000 volumes, most were lost during the revolution. Hall ceremony, where guests were received, the windows are a mosaic in Russian style, is a niche semicupola where the acoustics are really good. Moorish hall, the chimney is in onyx, the wooden ceiling in box is inlaid with colorful mosaic decorations of gold, wall panels, inlaid wood, stained with Arabic writing, the pillars of marble, the gilded wooden windows, the marble floor mosaic, the doors are shaped east. Continue and enter the apartment of these noble, the division is not random as to signify that this was a restricted area where guests could not accerdervi, this family had built an empire in the empire, had 53,000 servers, 8 held throughout for Russia and were always supporters of the reigning Tsar, whoever he was, like say, the practical application of The Prince of Machiavelli.
Private apartments are not in the original form, have been partially rearranged after the sacking of the revolution, the bedroom was in a wood, on the upper floor was the bedroom of his wife with an open wooden staircase whose support had glass, stained glass mosaic French.

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St. Petersburg - 2nd part

Dining room, with walls painted in leather, inlaid wooden ceiling of the eighteenth century., Fireplace in yellow Siena marble, the furniture is of the late 800's.
The Exchange and return to climb the ladder that leads upstairs, the beauty is expanded by the presence of mirrors that broaden the perspective, the scale is made of white Carrara marble, the crystal chandelier in rock, the beautiful ceiling with stucco, columns also stucco with capitals decorated with floral motifs.
The visit of the second floor of this beautiful home begins with the green room, the fireplace is malachite, furniture in birch wood, the decorated and gilded ceiling, the gilded bronze chandelier. Red room, the gilded bronze chandelier, parquet made with 8 types of wood, silk red walls, the ceiling is flat but the paint gives it a vaulted, frescoed and gilded it. Blue room, the barrel vault is frescoed, the cobalt chandelier, the walls are covered with blue silk, mirrors of the nineteenth century. Round Room, the room is square, but takes its name from the dome that is in the ceiling, the decorations are dell'800. Ballroom, chandelier crystal rock, decorated ceiling, white columns with gilded capitals, the place is derived in the orchestra dividing wall with the next room, at the top is hidden by a grid. Apollo Room, adjacent to the first, if necessary by opening the three doors, two rooms became one ballroom, there are 24 columns of marble, the ceiling is vaulted and frescoed, the chandeliers are of papier - dell'800 a fashion. Dining room is adjacent to the stairway, all in oak, finely carved, wooden ceiling with box, wooden columns, wooden panels with gray silk to the walls, Italian table in the middle of the room. Dining room (there are many dining rooms and the custom of the family was to always have lunch in different rooms), ceiling and plaster columns with capitals with floral motifs, parquet,. Corridor, barrel vault decorated, red walls, leading to a wing of the building devoted to the first room that you find was the private art gallery (now the precious works are exhibited contained all'Ermitaz), a framework to hang walls but the timing was really a gallery exclusive, refined and precious (a survivor of the family escaped to Paris during the revolution has survived by selling two paintings by Rembrandt). Hall roundabout where the owners collected the sculptures. Roman Hall is the hall of private theater with 150 seats, the original furnishings of the 800, all in carved and gilded wood, the stage and size of the theater reflects the volume ideal for perfect acoustics. The theater is still a place where concerts are given.
I left the palace that are stunned by such beauty, it is strange, seeing the location of the building situated on a small street on the banks of a channel gives the impression of a building anywhere, just by entering and walking about the rooms you can admire the splendor The opulence, wealth and sophistication of this family, as was the manifestation of wealth between the absolute powers of the czar and the church, but a richness not visible to all, not an asset like many other opulent palaces, that confidentiality preciousness and paid only to those who lived in the building and visible only to guests who were invited, in fact, to vary the structure of the plans suggests this. On the ground floor just a few rooms decorated on one side, of the other more comfortable, upstairs where the greatest pomp few could access it.
We continue the tour by visiting the church of Our Lady of Karzan (TCI pp. 201), then the Catholic church of Santa Caterina, a short distance there is the Church of the Resurrection (TCI pp. 214) view quickly the day before, we take advantage to revise them, next to the church and an imposing Art Nouveau erased borders a park. It starts to rain, maybe the time it takes so salutary, does nothing to snap the photos anyway.
To proceed to pass before the church of Our Lady of Vladimir (TCI pp. 221), the current seat of the Patriarch of the city (in Orthodox tradition every Patriarch can choose the church as a religious reference point), continuing the path we see the Armenian Church , hidden as if the Armenian people (higher concentration in the south of Russia) wanted to hide their religion, is a white building and blue, illuminated inside, perhaps this fringe of the Catholic religion, in St. Petersburg minority, will find its place after so much persecution.
We then head to the airport which we reach after crossing for the umpteenth time, the city, we pass before the Victory monument, the square south of the city where we left the hotel, a 'quick look to the imposing monument (TCI pp. 239) and quickly reach the airport, after a row will open the doors of employment, Nikita salute our guide, that Soviet-style care, it was found that we were embarking for Frankfurt. The return to Italy was quiet, a little 'of disruption during the flight I do not have permission to write the diary, but nothing alarming. The arrival at home is always nice. Home is always a warm and welcoming.
It 'time to make some considerations on the Tour, but where to start? I start from the hotels, the President Hotel in Kiev is a nice, very luxurious built in the days of the Soviet system, the service discreet, comfortable rooms, located near the center allowed to walk around the city. Katerina Iris Hotel Moscow is located outside the city center but relatively close to the imposing subway network, wanting to move (the widespread petty removed) is quite easy, even if tourists were advised to quit in groups and without money. Pulkoskoya Hotel in St. Petersburg is a hotel for business and tourists, even if it is listed as 4 stars is a three star rating, the service discreet.
We continue talking about the analysis of food, throughout the area's imagination in the kitchen is low, little gastronomic tradition, we eat salads (the cucumber is omnipresent). Many soups (very good ones in Kiev), the latter are meat or fish accompanied by vegetables or pasta or rice,
the desserts are always present, the ice cream is very good and creamy.
Cities. Kiev and Ukraine are different from other city views, retains its autonomy, is geographically closer to Europe and quest'influenza is known, is a cosmopolitan city and has historically this attention, the power of rebirth appears substantial. Moscow, a city is bleak, bleak, sad, people are not smiling, as male, who also has a lot of money and buy clothes as evil, poverty is rampant, alcoholism is unknown. St. Petersburg, dall'animo major European cities, a mix between Venice and Vienna, restored only the main buildings, turning inside you notice the state of abandonment in which the city. The scourge of poverty and alcoholism is fully visible in the evening and several hours of the day, the Russian company that suffers the vacuum left by communism and socialism, will have much to work to achieve our standards of living.

.... follows ....

St. Petersburg - 3rd part

The car was seen to move as many Mercedes, the Limoussine are used by brides, but most of the population uses the Lada, the Russian Fiat, you see the Circular 124 and 125, which have other names, the models do not have a name but have the numbers to date have come to model 9th The average car owner will change every 50,000 kilometers. There are cars in circulation with more than 20 years, since the car is a luxury the people trying to keep as much as possible, simply walk and is fine. No matter the external mind walking. When it stops, sometimes abandoned on the road with no license plates. There are few models of recent European brands. The rich wear expensive off-the Japanese and Americans. In the countryside it is impossible to move without off-road because the roads in the villages are not paved.
Restoration. States visited have invested heavily in the restoration of works of art that had been destroyed during the war during the period of Soviet rule. Great skill of the artisans in the Russian and Ukrainian restore everything to its former splendor.
Publications. While cities are much frequented by tourists, to find the publications medium / medium high in Italian is also fairly difficult. Those are very common in French, English and German. The best are printed in French and can be found in museums or in specialized libraries (almost always adjacent to museums or monasteries).
The tour was a great opportunity not only from a cultural and artistic, was an opportunity to see the Ukrainian and Russian companies in full revival, or perhaps in full redemption cultural, artistic with Europe so far and so close. We Europeans stand to be able to bring this nation so ancient, so big and not create further divisions in the last century have marked its history.
The next step is to transcribe the diary, and integrate it with the books I bought on the spot and keep alive this wonderful trip .....