"White ride in the Arctic Russia".. Winter off-road to the Kola Peninsula

The Sextant Group, since 1974 the author of exploratory motorized trips, made an expedition to the Arctic Russia through the heart of Karelia and the Kola Peninsula.

The group, left Italy on March 6, reached St. Petersburg via Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Finland. From there he headed north, penetrating the interior of Karelia on minor roads and forest tracks to reach the White Sea and Kola Peninsula.

The band has crossed the climate of the taiga, contained between the boreal forest (south) and tundra (north). This band encircles the entire globe, from Canada to Siberia and the boreal forest is the largest green lung of the planet much more to all tropical forests combined, including Amazon.

The media used were two, with a crew of two people. John and Erin Dondi on 110HT 300Td Defender, Mario Doria and Fabio Bresciani on Daily 4x4 camperizzato. Both vehicles were insulated and equipped with Webasto heater for sleeping on board.

The temperatures never exceeded 3 degrees below zero, often reaching to touch the -25 °. Such temperatures have forced the use of additives for diesel and extra batteries.

Traction on ice was ensured by special nails Best Grip, assembled and disassembled on site.

The path Karelia has articulated all on minor roads from the bottom is completely covered with snow. The expedition reached the Kola Peninsula and the coastal path a track on the White Sea to reach the remote village of Varzuga, bulwark of civilization in one of the wildest areas of Russia.

A Kirovsk Group has met a Dutch operator, specializing in extreme locations in the peninsula. With a mighty Russian military truck attempted to make a raid on virgin soil, but the depth of snow was an insurmountable obstacle for this unique vehicle.

The trip was marked by violent conflict offered by the environmental devastation of the Soviet era. Industrial towns, mines, power plants, foundries, military ports, etc.. were opposed to an environment of extraordinary natural beauty, with pristine forests and tundra that is home to large populations of survivors Sami and Komi-hunters and fishermen as Pomorie.

The Barents Sea and the port of Murmansk, the scene of the 2000 tragedy of the Kursk nuclear submarine, were the most northerly point reached by the consignment.

 

.... From Russia with love

. . . From Russia with love
Report of trip to Karelia and the Kola Peninsula
March 2009

We are now left behind the imperial palaces of St. Petersburg, alleys populated and beautiful girls in jeans detectors sheathed forms.

The ticking of the heels 12 cm that we were constantly turning his head, has now replaced the rattling of trucks that raise columns caracollanti frozen mud splashes. It 's the M18, the road turns from St. Petersburg Northeast, the largest marching entirely frozen Lake Ladoga, to bend then north to Petrozavodsk.

Above the blanket of snow covering the pressed asphalt was laid a layer of sand and dirt that turned the road into a dirt track.

To get here we passed through Switzerland, Austria and Germany. From Rostock we boarded the Tallink ferry that took us in Helsinki, Finland.

The first signs of the severity of the climate of this year we have had in the capital of Finland, hit by a snowstorm.

The border crossing with Russia has been relatively easy (two hours), though made uncomfortable by the chill wind that is channeled in the hangar of the pass, the line of frontier investing.

The first stretch of the M18 is in poor condition. The road that connects St. Petersburg to the furthest reaches of the Arctic Russia is paradoxically close to the devastated city, perhaps because of heavy traffic that gravitated.

The Republic of Karelia

Proceeding to the north-east traffic is reduced and improves the bottom. According to the program, our first stop should be near Petrozavodsk, from which branches off a side street that leads within Karelia. See the cards, but decided to avoid the city, making 50 km after a detour that will take us directly to a forest track leading to the lake Siamozero.

There are signs and ask for confirmation that there is a ruddy tractor crossing. "Niet polizei" yells at us jumping off a whiff of fumes of vodka. "Niet polizei" as if repeated in the absence of any police road was good. Squeezes between her lips and lit a cigarette butt with all the gas coming out of the mouth do not understand how he can not catch fire.

The first section of the road, and from this point on will always be so, looks like a bobsleigh run, on which given the traffic zero, the spin off-road safely.

After about fifty km take the track along the lakeshore. Now the snow layer becomes deeper and makes driving more challenging. The setting is idyllic: the sun penetrates the forest reflected in the snow. The choreography is unusual, austere but stunning. The snow on the branches of spruce trees form a myriad of dazzling points of light by the movement of cars seem to light up intermittently as a huge Christmas decoration. The machines with the small advance painfully inserted until dusk, when we locate an ideal area for the nightly bivouac. When the sun sinks below the curtain of trees, the temperature drops to -10 °, announcing an icy night.

In order to facilitate our movements around the camp shoveling snow machines. And 'dry and lighter and be cleared with minimal effort.

The snow is so dry that they are incompressible. It has the texture of African fech fech and when the wind blows rises in glittering spirals. On this bottom sand 900/16 tires supplied to the Daily work wonders. As mentioned, this snow has the consistency of sand and a piece exasperated they decompose the surface by sinking the middle. Even snow chains (not ever Mountains) would be counterproductive, having nothing solid on which to grip loosely.

The most important thing is the "floating" and therefore the capacity of a tire to operate with minimal pressure.

After a dinner of spaghetti according to the Daily Italian and local meats, brightened up with generous helpings of Ortrugo Piacenza, take a walk at night. The temperature dropped to -15 °, but the dry air and clothing suitable to prevent us feeling cold. The blue sky is studded with stars. The silence is broken only by the taiga crunch of snow beneath our feet and our comments on the beauty of the environment. The short trip is without risk, as the most formidable local predator, the black bear, slumber in hibernation and wolves and lynxes are too shy to approach the field.

One of the biggest dangers for those camps in the taiga are not animals, but the extreme volatility of the climate. A sudden storm can in fact download a lot of snow to block vehicles. According to the Komi, halos around the disc of the sun herald snow, while others may detect signs of smoke from the campfire: if the vertical rise time is cold and dry, while lazily scrolls to rise predict a worsening. Since the Komi, we have not paid attention to these signals indicators, but since the sky is completely clear of clouds go to sleep confident.

Last night the outside temperature fell to -25 degrees, while inside the defender, despite the insulation, have touched the 8th. We did not trust it to hold on for fear of the Webasto steal precious energy to the two batteries of 50 Ha. Despite this, the soft duvet, the skullcap on his head and clothing underwear arctic climates have given us more than enough protection.

Inside the Defender everything is frozen. The water tank that feeds the little sink is a compact block (the water pump will resume operation only to return to Italy). The water bottle is frozen and so toothpaste, toothbrush and anything that contains liquid. From this moment to have a minimum of water we melt the snow on the stove. Because of condensation of our bodies, sunroof seals were glued to lock in permanently.

The Daily, with up to 3 batteries of 100 ha, Webasto has been able to secure overnight a temperature a few degrees above zero, but for what concerns the water situation is the same as the Defender.

The next morning the engines struggling to get going, holding my breath for a few seconds.

Resumed the march we reach a clearing where a group of lumberjacks, using a bulldozer crawler is piling logs. They seem annoyed by our presence, evidently are doing illegal work, and prevent us from proceeding further. Most of them seek to upset snatched the camera wielded by Fabio, who is quick to show him that were not included. It 'a situation of "Quiet Weekend of Fear, not embrace them guns, but their chainsaws are equally threatening and dissuasive. The tension loosens when we accept their request to reverse. Eventually help us in our operations and the "dasvidania" sketch even a smile showing black jaws of nicotine and full of shortcomings.

.... From Russia with love

Regained in the morning the road to Suojarvi. This piece of 70 km is transited by massive 6-wheel drive trucks carrying lumber. Although drinkers are unrepentant, the Russians seem to have a truck driving behavior more correct than many of their Western counterparts. Throughout the trip there ever see a risky maneuver by a driver.

Once in Suojarvi put a strong north on a minor road traffic void. We are once again immersed in the heart of the taiga and traveling on the usual fund snow unfathomable. Only a few remote villages break the monotony of the environment: Leppianiemi, Toivola, Lahkolamen, Kostomuksi, small clusters of dilapidated wooden houses still in the grip of the long Russian winter. The houses are built with roughly hewn planks and seems never to have received a coat of paint. And this contrasts with the neat appearance of women, even in these places forgotten by God and elegant party wear fur coats and move gracefully among huge piles of snow. Some rusty Uaz providing services to the civilized world. Within a radius of 1500 km there is only one cultivated field and any food product to be transported from the central regions of European Russia. The only resources, apart from mining, are made from wood and most of the male inhabitants are precisely forestry workers.

This stage involves passing the village of Porosozero and bivouac on the shores of Lake Gimolkoe. The path leading to the lake is heavily covered with snow and once embarked allows no movement. On either side of the path depth of snow is likely to prevent any reversal, that is only possible on the icy surface of the lake.

Links We trudged along without a hitch. The route is short and even half an hour after we arrive on the shores of the lake. As expected, the ice allows us to perform the maneuvers necessary to choose the ideal location for the camp at night.

On shore there is a strange vehicle, a motorcycle with three wheels with tires made from large truck inner tubes wrapped with strips of canvas cross. The traces left on the snow show a unique ability to float. This means, of craftsmanship, is probably used by fishermen to travel on the frozen surface of the lake.

The night promises to be cold and then decide to spread a sheet on the front of the Land to provide some protection to the cab and engine compartment. After dinner a night walk on the lake allows us to burn excess calories that a bottle of Tuscan red and a couple of shots of vodka we have accumulated.

The next day, regained the road, continue the path north. We spend the morning in the usual spinning bobsleigh. To awaken from the torpor that the environment monochromatic c'infonde are Ullaro of smoothies, especially large flocks of grouse that is parked on the side of the track. The only animals sighted, with some foxes, grouse are these. But no meeting with the moose, which also abounds in these areas or with other deer.

At the edge of villages dogs roam free. Sled races now outclassed by motor vehicles, but which still have high regard for local populations. Around noon we reach the village where Peninga in a shack that serves as the store buy some food. To get the bill the owner of the store handles expertly an abacus, an instrument used in Soviet Russia until the 80s and is still operating in remote areas of the country.

The breakup of the Soviet system did not lead to drastic changes in lifestyle of these people and show the many symbols of the communist regime that still stands on many public buildings. Towards evening we reach near the village of Ledmozero. And 'late and we must choose the place for the camp at night. We take an ice truck, which starts a route for snowmobiles that seems ideal for the night. Let's try with the Land, but after a few meters the snow layer and gives the means sinking to the chassis. As always in the absence of adhesion, the differential locks are useless and the situation can only be unlocked using the towed Daily, remained with the wheels on the solid. For tonight we must be content with a sand pit, little romantic, but friendly enough.

Today's leg will cross a hilly landscape with many hairpin turns that leads us to a pit stop for the mounting of special nails Best Grip. Thanks to a helical screw these nails can be inserted using a common tool. The transaction requires more than an hour, but gives the vehicle stability and safety even on the most steep slopes.

This time we have the opportunity to observe from the taiga. The huge expanse of spruce and birch trees is lost horizon. Eastward this band crosses all climatic zones 9 to 70 times a large country of Italy: a dimension which we are not used and that can confuse even the most experienced traveler.

The thread that binds us to civilization is the way we travel and on its reliability at this juncture it seems more vital than ever. Zigzagged up and down the hills oriented north, past the industrial zone of Kostomuksha up to the village where Vojnisha bend far east to Kalevala. After the city we travel the road to Tungozero for another 80 km then take a side path that point inward.

The trail leads us to a clearing ideal for the night. The next morning we decide to continue on this track and not beat the capacity limitation of resources. Sometimes we run the risk of excess in a narrow wooden bridge crossing a river without banks. The bridge is covered with two feet of snow that does not allow to assess the conditions of the plateau. The machines are struggling to maintain the trajectory. We are compelled to reverse and make corrections, the risk of a disastrous slide sideways. In the end everything goes well and we can proceed without further hitches pointing north-east to rejoin the M18 which will take us to Kandalaksha on the White Sea.

.... From Russia with love

The Kola Peninsula

Stop at the memorial showing the Arctic Circle, surrounded by plants from which hang hundreds of strips of colored cloth, attached by travelers. A tradition reminiscent of the mountain people of Tibet and should ensure a peaceful journey.

Kandalaksha before we make a detour to the small village of Kovda on the White Sea. The village is perched atop a hill overlooking the river below, where the water begins to flow between the ice floes. The north side overlooks the White Sea, completely frozen. Despite the state of the houses, many of which, for lack of foundation, are tilted dangerously to one side, the village looks idyllic and reassuring. It seems uninhabited, but a little woman who returns with a shopping bag belies the impression. Up the hill one of the oldest wooden churches of the Kola Peninsula is undergoing restoration. The well-planed boards at odds with the color of the axes of the bell tower, blackened by time. But Russia, you know, is a land of contrasts. It seems that summer the town is filled with life, but in winter the inhabitants settled not exceed 30 souls.

Once in Kandalaksha final reservation a room in a Soviet-style hotels. We assign that according to Russian standard would be the best. E 'with shower and toilet patched the better, but is clean and heated, and this is enough.

Even the city is built according to Soviet architecture: palaces popular obvious state of neglect frame the main square, the center of which a large concrete foundation, a T34 tank recalls the glories of the great Red Army. It seems that there are no shops, but they are hidden inside cabinets or no sign of the courtyards. In the city the usual beautiful women. Russia is a country of models tall, slender but well-fleshed, can stimulate the male fantasies of the expedition: those temporarily single, of course!

Leaving Kandalaksha we take the coastal road to Umba first, closed city for military reasons, and then further to the remote village of Varzuga. The path is not very demanding. The road was defeated by snow and is also feasible by conventional means. The ice of the White Sea, because of the pressure was raised near the coast, giving us the impression that the tide wave has instantly frozen.

Varzuga is one of the oldest villages in the peninsula, inhabited by Pomorie, a sedentary population engaged in fishing. The new part includes a road, a school and several houses recently built, while the old is on the opposite side of the river, and is accessible only by boat.

The next retrace in reverse the coastal road, returning to Kandalaksha. The city has become our base for supplies of fuel and foodstuffs.

.... From Russia with love

In the afternoon we take the M18 to meet up with Frank, a Dutch operator that organizes trips in summer and winter in trucks, snowmobiles and off. Informs us that the track is probably intended to make unfit for use and recommended that Article groped with the truck Gaz half compact equipped with huge wheels, a powerful V8 petrol (fully copied from the Range Rover engine) and a mechanical winch. We follow the advice on board and head of the mythical Gaz. And 'soon became clear that the snow is too deep for this powerful medium. The truck moves forward with difficulty, limps, sinks, then forward again and again sinks to stop permanently. All ground. Blade and winch report means the surface, but after a few meters it is repeated. Advances at times for some kilometers until it is clear that as you proceed towards the interior thickness of snow is growing. It was decided then to return, picking up on the way back in a rickety van Uaz that attempt to track the truck ginned differential. In total we managed to penetrate to the inside for 8 miles and according to Frank for these snow conditions this is already a record.

To compensate us for the flop with the truck, Frank proposes a day of snowmobiling through Mocheozero Lake and the area north of the Monchegorsk. Mario and Fabio accepted with enthusiasm and experience different driving conditions on the icy expanses of lakes and hills.

After completing the adventure in adventure, our riders return to Monchegorsk. Just time for a hot coffee and a cordial greeting to Frank and returns the main route, passing the town of Apatity, which owes its name precisely apathy: a valuable phosphate mines Kirovsk extracted and refined here. Apatity was the scene of one of the enormous devastation of Russia. Not even the prospect of Khibiny beautiful mountains in the background is able to soften the images of the impressive facility. The doomsday scenario of Apatity makes us appreciate the small town of Kirovsk, located near the Monti Khibiny. Although it began as a mining town also, its industrial suburb is located 7 km from the town. The city is now a thriving winter sports center with skiing, and freestyle skiing. Its facilities are used for training of Russian National. In summer the starting point for all trekking routes.

.... From Russia with love

Once again we turn off the M18 to visit Lovozero, the most important center of Sami throughout Russia. The town looks bleak, with the usual run-down apartment buildings and a popular cultural center in the form of a tee-pee in the general context that is pathetic. Sami collective imagination, nomadic reindeer herders, even the shadow. The sedentary imposed by the Soviet system has distorted these people who now suffer from serious problems of unemployment and alcoholism. But this is Russia. Its ugliness is part of the general context and we must accept. In recent years there has been some attempts to revive the Sami culture. When one community has taken the reindeer herd in summer you can observe some areas of pasture.

Regained the M18 continue our journey northward, heading for the last ugliness on the Barents Sea Murmansk, the largest city in the world north of the Arctic Circle. Beyond the city, the fjord that is the port of Severomorsk hosting the nuclear fleet and is forbidden to foreigners. Murmansk is located on three levels: the industrial and port are obviously at sea level.

The port is, as all ports of the world, a forest of cranes steel. The fjord is dotted with rusting carcasses of ships under demolition. Off this fjord in August 2000 took place the tragedy of the Kursk nuclear submarine, the pride of the Russian Navy. The news of the tragedy was made public well after 18 days and its causes are still shrouded in mystery. The silence of the military meant that even Gorbachev, who still enjoyed great consideration at the political class, could not shed light on the incident. The official attributed the cause of the tragedy accidental explosion of a torpedo.

The center is in an intermediate position and the surrounding hills are crowned by the peripheral blocks. After seeing Apatity, Murmansk seems pleasant wide avenues, buildings with facades freshly painted, well-stocked shops and beautiful women everywhere as usual sculettano elegantly on high heels, regardless of the snow flurries that they invest. Accommodation at Polární Zori (Arctic Sunrise) standard hotel west. This time the adventure was made by and enjoy maximum comfort.

Leaving the city head south-west on the P11 road that will lead us to the border post of Raja Jooseppi. The 250 km road is snowed heavily and the last section is particularly severely affected. Instead of Russian border still breathe air from the cold war: barbed wire, iron gates, bands studded with turrets and soldiers armed with AK47. At passport control something is wrong and we detained for almost two hours. We are only at customs and despite the rigid bureaucracy provides controls capillary documents, we are treated with courtesy and housed in a living room heated. When you unlock the situation is now evening and reached the Finnish border post we are again blocked, this time much more abrupt. They found traces of radioactivity on our vehicles, souvenirs of the Kola Peninsula, and guide us under an archway with a geiger detectors. Fortunately, the values are low and finally allow us to enter Finland. It 's night and the first pitch we stop for dinner.

.... From Russia with love

The return through Finland

The next day we reach Ivalo and begin the descent to the South Since the spirit of adventure still all members of the expedition chose to deviate from E75 to make a cross which should lead to a parallel road. The track, about seventy kilometers long has not been opened yet and we can only travel a distance of ten miles, with some intervention to remove the hook machines. But it was worth it. The environment is of extraordinary beauty, the immaculate snow is violated only by the hoofs of reindeer that when we arrived fleeing through the trees. We stop for a bite frugal. Regained the E75 still go down south to take another track that makes a big loop inside and then back on the road.

And 'the last great adventure before transferring back home. It 's a path beaten by snowmobiles but enough to be used even for us. At first reduced until dark when, near the lake Seiupajarvi we reach a clearing that allows us to set up the field. Some boats on the lake ice buried by snow and some seemingly uninhabited house. But the barking of a dog in the night telling us that we are not only frequent the place.

This is the last camp in the forest. We are still above the Arctic Circle. But today the road that separates us from Helsinki by ferry to Germany will be considered a pure transfer. The night is cold and moonless. The darkness and the air terse approximate the vault of heaven, studded with myriads of stars.

We go outside to toast the success of the trip and the great Mother Russia, which has enabled us to live an extraordinary adventure, confounding all the dire predictions that traveled on the Internet.

This is our second experience in the Arctic and although there is no two without three ... ... ..