A tour of Castile: historic towns, palaces and cloisters of central Spain

The route has been studied for some time thanks to the always excellent "Guide Mondadori. Reservations made at the beginning of 2010: Easy Jet flight booking - Malpensa - Madrid; Enoleggio car reservations and reservations for all hotels through the site with the exception of Venus 2 Paradores Paradores of the book directly on the site. Having already been in another part of Spain in 2003, we know very well the reality of the beautiful Parador (hotel luxury in historic buildings) and we know that for sure you should book well in advance. Neither the car nor hotel serves for advance payment. All you need is a credit card guarantee. We have also booked the car park at Malpensa, as always at Parking.
5 days before departure, the usual Unreliable Easy Jet, with an e-mail informs us that the return flight booked is canceled. He invites us to choose another, or to request a refund. There is no other choice than to return, again with Easy Jet, the next day. We decide to book an additional night in a village just mentioned by the guide near Madrid (Pastrana) and to extend the rental car for one day (amazingly no additional cost, rather we apply a reduction in paper and we reimburse the difference).

 

MADRID

We got up early and we reach with our car parking. At that time there is almost no one, hurry fast early practices and take us to Terminal 2 of Malpensa to our super-cheap flight with Easy Jet Easy Jet also, strangely, no problem (usually it is always late) and, in enough time, we reach Madrid. Shortly after 8.00 am we're already there. Fast there as quickly and deliver your luggage, office Alamo / Atesa we deliver the car, strangely without even groped to trim some additional cost. The price is agreed at the time of booking E-hire. The car is a Peugeot 207, 4-door with climate.
Madrid airport is pretty close to the center. In 30 minutes we reach our hotel located in front of the Prado Museum.
It is a modern 4 star hotel, not pretty but functional: HOTEL LOPE DE VEGA. Although we are only mid-morning, our room was ready. The hotel has its own garage located under the hotel: expensive but convenient.
In fact, as long as you stay in Madrid the machine is not needed. Perhaps it would be better just rent it when leaving the city (we saved 50 € parking).
Start your city tour. First we make a subscription to the underground for a period of 2 days. It's cheap, but then at the end of the visit to Madrid, we realize that he only made four trips to the head in meters. At this point it was almost better than buying individual tickets.
Unfortunately, we immediately realize that next to our hotel, there is no metro station nearby. The closest is about 500 m. (Too many for a person who hates to walk like me) and this will limit all our evenings out.
First visit to the Royal Palace, a large white building, with furniture, decorations, a beautiful old pharmacy and Royal Armoury. Soon after, we reach by metro to the Retiro Park: a park similar to many others but with a large lake in the middle where stands the monument of Alfonso XII.
We are tired and go back to hotel to freshen up with effective air conditioning in our room.
For dinner, choose a restaurant near the hotel (El Prado Restaurant) with both Spanish and Italian food and even pizza. After dinner, we notice a nearby Starbucks with pleasant outdoor seating in front of a beautiful fountain, drink coffee, cake and decide to go back there for breakfast, consider that, hotels, breakfast is not included in room price.

MADRID

The early bird catches the worm and then Spain in the morning, the temperature is really good (about 25 °). Then: breakfast at Starbucks and then by metro reach the Puerta del Sol
From there began our journey (the Recommended Guide Mondadori) in Old Madrid, among ancient buildings, quaint shops, covered market. They also decide to visit the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales. The visit is guided (in Spanish, but understandable) and you have to book a few hours before the turn of the visit. Agreed at the time we come and visit the many rooms of the Monastery, decorated with beautiful staircase, chapel and cloister.
We decided then to have lunch in one of the terraces of the Plaza Mayor, the heart of Madrid. Let us return then by metro to the hotel, I, Daniel, decided to stay to rest, Max, however, visit the Prado Museum, opposite the hotel.
For dinner, we did not want to walk to the metro so we decide to dine in the same room the night before. Here, however, take the biggest scam of our trip. We order a plate of ham, Jamon Serrano, but Max is convinced the waiter to order some Jamon Iberico (which should be more valuable). Score: 24 € a plate of ham and it was virtually identical to the Jamon Serrano eaten in the Plaza Mayor.

EL PARDO, EL ESCORIAL, AVILA

Breakfast at Starbucks and then left Madrid that we think is our favorite European capital: too few interesting things to see, in 1 / 2 days, at most, the entire visit.
We head to drive in the province of Madrid for the second visit the Royal Palace of our trip: El Pardo Palacio. It is a building used in the past, especially since Generalissimo Franco. It is currently used to house visiting foreign heads of state.
Like all royal palaces to be visited (4) that is also richly decorated, quite large with many rooms to visitors. Discrete outside gardens. The tour is guided, in Spanish, but painless. The guide is pretty fast also because this group is made by us two alone and, therefore, make us wait a bit '(in vain) before starting the visit.
Second stop of the day is the complex of El Escorial. It is an austere set of religious buildings. Just for all this austerity and its greyness, to me, Daniel, do not really like it. Max appreciates instead. I prefer the church (sightseeing) and gardens (free) as well as the beautiful visual impact of the water basin in front of the facade. All things that would be seen for free. Among other things, it starts to rain and you have to go back to the audio guides (do not take them) to the entry point, away from the exit. What a bore!
For lunch there is a Burger King and take advantage stradafacendo: Buger King and Mc Donald will represent my salvation (Daniel) to eat some decent food at reasonable prices.
Then we reach Avila. The city strikes us immediately upon arrival by the beauty of the walls and towers surrounding the city.
Our hotel is beautiful, is located right in the Cathedral Square. He can be reached easily by car and the garage under the hotel. The hotel is charming building with a central cloister. The rooms are located on the upper floors overlook the courtyard. The cloister is covered with a combined bar and relaxation area.
Our room was beautiful, great, but the air conditioning is not very efficient: it works but very cool. Luckily the day is not hot and we just open the windows.
Visit the center of Avila, a small town with a succession of squares and many churches. In the center we see a tourist train, the first in a long series that will accompany us in every city, so take advantage for a full tour of the lovely town board the same.
For dinner, we decide for a modest pizzeria: MONTEVIDEO, but with clearly displayed prices and to avoid the catch of the night before.
Then, walking through the streets of Avila, take some photos as soon as it gets dark (details the many storks to the towers of churches) and we also visit a craft market set up for that day. A cafe in the beautiful cloister of our hotel with background music and then to bed.

SALAMANCA

Breakfast of Avila is one of the best of our trip: set up in a beautiful cloister covered with giant buffet and quality (both sweet and savory items including the famous ham).
There are also beautiful Churros, I knew from previous trips to Spain, that is, fritters long, narrow stripes and food, preferably dipped in melted chocolate.
Let Avila to reach Salamanca. The distances between one city and another, on this trip are minimal. Each stage is maximum of 200 km.
By mid morning we are already at the hotel in Salamanca that are easy on our Tomtom Navigator (essential).
The hotel is ideally placed as just outside the historic center of Salamanca. It can therefore be easily reached by car, pedestrian area with no problems, but with the center at 2 steps.
The garage is underneath the hotel, complete with valet parking that brings the car in the garage and we got up to.
Alameda Palace Hotel is a 5 star but with very reasonable prices, like all the hotel of our trip. The average price of a room at night was a total of 100 euro, including breakfast sometimes, but excluding the parking lot (15/20 € a day).
As in any hotel where we stayed, the rooms are always ready since the morning.
After depositing the luggage in the room begin a visit to Salamanca. The city, in the Renaissance style, all in golden stone of Salamanca, is really interesting, monumental, full of palaces, churches, all with richly decorated facades.
Curious the inexplicable "astronaut" on the facade of the cathedral of 1600 (the mystery?).
We visit the Cathedral, old and new: the new and the old is free of charge is a fee. Maybe, but to me, Daniel, and most liked the new cathedral (which is still in 1600, while the old one is 1400).
Outside the cathedral, we see the inevitable train and immediately climb on board for a full tour of the city, with € 4 you can easily see the entire city without walking too much.
Lunch at McDonalds and then go back to the hotel to rest.
We go back to the 18 to visit the University. Salamanca is a university town and the old University building is a historic visit in the afternoon. Already his facade is decorated all a show but then inside, you can visit the beautiful monumental scale, the old classrooms (including the very old classroom of theology), the old library and the church. Very interesting.
In a small square shaded drink a glass of sangria waiting time for dinner. We have dinner in an alley near the university with mixed grill: good and plentiful.

CASTILLO DE COCA, SEGOVIA.

Breakfast good and plentiful in our beautiful hotel and then departure.
First we go to the Castillo de la Mota in Medina Field. However, the visits began in the late morning and then we see it only outside.
Instead we visit the nearby Castillo De Coca, but is a real disappointment.
Do not enter: lots of stairs to see nothing. Save money and effort and be content to take a picture outside.
Then, the direction of Segovia, where the night.
We reach our hotel SAN ANTONIO EL REAL.
As the name suggests it is an ancient monastery converted into a hotel. Like any self-respecting monastery has a beautiful cloister opened with a beautiful fountain in the center. All the tables around the bar.
All rooms are overlooking the perimeter of the cloister.
Our room is obviously good if somewhat 'austere with a hint of a canopy.
The front desk tells us that the center is just a short walk. Not so: the walk is quite long and then decide to return by taxi.
Center and symbol of the city and the spectacular Roman aqueduct, several arches, which dominates the city's main square.
Max visit the cathedral cloister and Cathedral Museum.
Another building to visit is absolutely the Alcazar, the whole fairytale castle-style turrets. The interior is interesting and the visit is fast.
We have the unfortunate idea to have lunch with a sandwich bar Daoiz.
But the clumsy waiter, break the glass of coca cola and my glasses I get a cut to the hand, give me a patch but only one, not even offer us coffee.
After visiting the Alcazar, on the return trip, we find a taxi stand and decide to take him back to the hotel.
The race is really cheap: about 3 or 4 € and choose to serve in the evening for dinner.
But first, in a bar near the aqueduct, we order a curious granita Tropical, blue.
Then we have dinner in a restaurant, situated on a stairway near the aqueduct with the delicious and tender steaks and fries. We take a taxi and go back to the hotel for the usual ritual of coffee in the cloister.

GRANJA DI S. ILDEFONSO, CUENCA

Immediately after breakfast we leave the hotel in Segovia and arrive early to the near Granja S. Ildefonso. We wait patiently for the opening of the third Royal Palace and in the meantime do some photos of the gardens in front of the entrance.
We are fortunate in Spain, on Wednesday, many museums are free. So we can access without paying anything. The visit is free so fortunately we visit the various rooms and quickly, given the time, in perfect solitude. As in many museums, you can not take pictures inside. However, every building is well organized and, at the end of the visit, there is always waiting for a well-stocked book shop with postcards and various publications.
The rooms of the palace of S. Ildefonso are many and beautiful. A real palace! The exterior also extend great gardens with fountains and water features. Unfortunately, the fountains are switched on only in the afternoon (I wonder why in Spain the morning nothing works). Therefore, we recommend to better organize schedules and to devote to this wonderful building an afternoon visit
Let S. Ildefonso is to tackle the longest of our trip: destination Cuenca.
However, we are on site for lunch.
Cuenca is a city made up of a modern horrible (which we omit) and the ancient part called "ciudad encantada". In fact it is a spell and then our hotel, that is the Parador is situated in the most charming place. The Parador is always exceptional places: the best way to stay in Spain. Even on this trip, I wanted to absolutely choose a couple to stay and the first, is precisely that of Cuenca.
A parador never disappoints: the Parador de Cuenca is set in an ancient monastery in front of the iron pedestrian bridge that connects the entrance of the old town, crossing the cliff.
Beyond the bridge, the spectacular "hanging houses": houses perched on the wall of the mountain. And here are wasted photos, day and night.
The ancient city of Cuenca is very small, so the visit is quite fast. We eat a ham sandwich in the Plaza Mayor, which is a rather small square. Internally is the only monument to visit the Cathedral, but it is closed and we do not understand what time open. We look a bit 'and then give up. Some shopping in the few shops and then off to our beautiful Parador, where we will have a pool just below the mountain that feels good, after days of travel!
We have dinner in the beautiful cloister of the Parador as we have not really felt like the climb to Cuenca, but unfortunately the choice of food, the bar is really low and the sandwich is really disappointing. Patience, we'll make tomorrow with breakfast on the Parador that we know are always spectacular.
After dinner, night pictures of the bridge and the hanging houses.

TOLEDO

The breakfast did not disappoint: there is everything and then the atmosphere of the Parador is truly the peace and quiet even at the breakfast buffet.
He then left for Toledo.
Easily reach our hotel: HOTEL REAL, but we can not say just as easily get to the parking lot. The latter turns out to be a tragic thing. Practically, the garage would be located under the hotel, but to get there, you will need access to another means doing the rounds of half the town. But the problem is this: the problem is access to the parking lot itself. Really impossible. In fact, the clerk at the front desk asking us first type of car owned in order to verify that the car can pass the access road. At first, the wrong road, are likely to remain stuck with the car in a sort of tunnel (perhaps only for pedestrians) and then proceeding in reverse, brushing the walls, we can take off out of trouble.
Then, we realize that we have reached the hotel parking lot when we see a Mercedes stuck, unable to go forward or back and, eventually, inevitably, a bit line 'the side.
We managed to enter without difficulty, but we have some problems, the next day to leave.
In short, after the luxuries of the Parador, this 3-star hotel, with all these parking problems, there is really disgusting: DO NOT go there.
The position is not really too bad: it is just within the walls. However, to reach the city center of Toledo, should have a good uphill walk. Toledo really is all uphill. In short, the visit of the city is a bit 'tiring especially if combined with the temperature a bit' higher than the other cities visited. In the afternoon the thermometer was 41 degrees!. 'S why we have not completed the walking tour provided by the guide.
Fortunately, in the main square we see the usual tourist train that will take us to make a wonderful visit outside the walls. Thus we see the city with an external view: the magic of the walls, gateways and scenic river that flows all around. It's really worth.
Max visit the Cathedral of Toledo and says it is truly spectacular.
In addition, there are many shops in Toledo: swords mainly, but also Spanish fans and local crafts.
Traders here, though, are the worst kind. Are those that attack the tourist looking to trim anything and without giving time to reflect. Besides, I want to learn credit card advancing absurd excuses such as: the figure is too low. Or worse, pretend that the paper does not work (and worry about making you a fool in the shop). In these cases, do as I do: punish abandoning the purchase.
We have dinner near the hotel in a lovely outdoor seating with piazzettina: La Estrella, Calle de Las Arosas, close to Puerta de Bisagra. We eat really well at very low prices. Go there.
After dinner we stroll around the beautiful Puerta de Bisagra. We reach the nearby park with many bars with outdoor seating. We choose one in the middle of the park and sit near the beautiful fountain.

CHINCHON

After a breakfast really painful in that crappy hotel (no croissants, no sweets. Bread alone, but we had to ask specifically), will get stuck at the exit of the parking lot. How scary! If we damage the car we have to pay the deductible! I, Daniel, to make the signals go down. We make it and we can leave the car park.
The next stage will be the fourth and precisely what the Royal Palace of Aranjuez. Outside there is a great hit that even if we see that is huge, but, in turns out to be absolutely the best. It is also surrounded by acres of parkland. We visit on foot the most beautiful gardens, those immediately next to the Palace with channel and waterfalls. To visit the gardens further away, take a tourist train in the park. However, we understand that the other gardens are not that great. Maybe not even worth the trouble to take the train, but we have so much time.
Then we go to the small town of Chinchon, near Madrid, where he will spend the night at the Parador.
The country is small and all of Chinchon develops in the main square country course called "Plaza Mayor" and completely different from the more elegant places previously visited. The square is characteristic of Chinchon because all in Spanish style, with wooden balconies. The center of the square is occupied equipment of the "Plaza de Toros" to accommodate bullfights.
We are particularly unfortunate since that day, the whole country is moved to the streets for the preparation of the concert of a major rock band Spanish: "Perez" (never heard of but in Spain are very popular among the young). Thus, the square is crowded from the stage.
The Parador, located near the square, given the concert, is not reachable by car as it should be. So, we need to carry your luggage on foot from the parking lot located a little 'distant hotel.
However, Ilci consoles suffered the sacrifice: it is beautiful and luxurious. This is a classic monastery and cloister, but in addition there are beautiful gardens with lots of characteristic well and a beautiful saltwater swimming pool masterfully placed in the gardens of the convent.
Lunch at an outdoor cafe in Plaza Mayor, but given the holiday, there is much confusion. In one end of the square we see a beautiful sink. In the afternoon we look forward to cooling off in the swimming pool and it will.
In the evening, our programs jump: Chinchon all the restaurants are located in the square and that evening the square is closed because of the concert. We do not know where to dine. Fortunately, we see a typical restaurant in front of the Parador: The house of the Convent. Inside the restaurant there is a small patio where tables are located. We have dinner, we only customers of the restaurant (because it's early) with steak and chips.
Following the usual ritual of coffee in the courtyard of the Parador.

PASTRANA

According to our original program, today we should go home. Instead, because of the canceled flight, we had to book an additional night in a hurry, choosing the location of Pastrana, as cited by the road and not far from Madrid.
We have received response from a single hotel: HOTEL PALATERNA. So we booked here. The hotel is located in the center of the country and not reachable in the car that day, there are big celebrations in the city (presumably their mid-August).
Let us therefore get as close as possible to unload the luggage and then, Max, go to park outside the country.
The hotel turns out to be not so awful, partly because the price is similar to that of a Parador. Despite being a mere 2 stars, the room is practically a mini apartment complete with sitting area, two televisions, air conditioning, refrigerator e. .. surprise surprise, a hot tub in our bathroom (there was not even at the Parador).
We visit the village, we enter the church and then we realize that the entire city center is surrounded by railings. Ask for explanations in the hotel and tell us that this is due to the fact that the bull run is scheduled in the afternoon. They explain that this is the running of the bulls through the streets, as in Pamplona. All excited, we do not want to miss the event. However, we are a bit 'disappointed because the bulls are not as fierce, as seen on TV in Pamplona. They're pretty relaxed and do not run a lot and then the people running down the street, do not run big risks. However, we still remain behind bars, at a distance. Also because, on one occasion, a bull has come to give un'incornata just outside our gate.
We have dinner in a secluded restaurant, an old convent (Convento San Francisco) with tables and outdoor fountain, with a mega hamburger.La night is very troubled. Here to celebrate the great mid-August with people wandering the streets, getting drunk and singing until the morning at 9.00. All night we hear horns, choruses and songs under the windows. I sleep badly and I have a headache. But what there is so much to celebrate!

Back home

The night is very troubled. Here to celebrate the great mid-August with people wandering the streets, getting drunk and singing until the morning at 9.00. All night we hear horns, choruses and songs under the windows. I sleep badly and I have a headache. But what there is so much to celebrate!
Sunday, August 15: Return.
The icing on the cake is the real breakfast (M) to a minimum with coffee, a slice of toasted bread and a jam.
We are looking for the cleanest path where drag our trolley: the streets are dirty with all kinds of liquid residue of human debauchery in addition to the left by the bulls.
Calmly we go to the airport where we make the car behaved very well throughout the trip. A round of applause at the Alamo!
Complete all the formalities of shipment but, as usual, the Easy Jet flight accumulate 1 hour of delay. Patience. We expected. We have become accustomed.
In return, our vacation was absolutely perfect.
This time we have not missed a shot.
And now some cost:
- Easy Jet Flight to / r-Milan Madrid: € 80.00 per person-10 days with Alamo Rent a Car (via E-rental): € 350.00 - Average Price per night in hotel: € 100.00 per room-price Medium car: € 15.00 per night (€ 24.00 Madrid) .- Average price entry museum / palace / church: € 6 / 8 head-average price lunch: € 20.00 per-couple dinner Average price : € 30.00 per couple .- petrol cost: slightly less than in Italy
- Highways: almost always free
- Parking in Malpensa Airport car park at Parking: € 45.00 per 10 giorni. DANI AND MAX
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