Fuerteventura: among beaches and cabritos

The decision of the trip to FUERTEVENTURA in the Canary Islands has matured during the year ... we wanted to go to a seafood place but was not particularly inflated, invaded by tourists and allowed us to combine a great vacation at the beach with some route culture.
The decision was taken to the Canary Islands and having discarded for the reasons expressed the most famous Las Palmas and Tenerife, we opted for FUERTEVENTURA. We soon realized that organizing a trip do-it-yourself to the Canary Islands and, above all, for the period of August, is not very facile.Infatti flights arriving from Puerto del Rosario (the only airport 'island) are not very cheap ... the only flight that we have found a decent price was offered by Air Berlin with a stopover in Berlin. The price was around 500. But the biggest surprise is the great difficulty in booking a hotel at moderate prices via internet. Almost all offer no possibility of reservation and those that do are full (since April). We have read on this topic showed that travelers like to go to FUERTEVENTURA (Canary Islands and in general) the first time with a Tour Operator and then look at properties for any economic successive visits of the island. And so we did ... though unwillingly and reluctantly (we are tourists DIY Super!) We decided to head to a travel agent Roman and see what the market offered for FUERTEVENTURA. Of all the offers that much more convincing was to Theorem Tour package with flight and stay for 8 days in an all inclusive resort was to cost about 790 euro.Abbiamo also decided to hire with the tour operator is also a machine to turn the best the island.

But as is often (or you see too often from me Send Raitre) the surprise came to us! On 18 August (ie, only 5 days before departure to Puerto del Rosario) the agency receives a communication from Theorem Tour when told that (for reasons beyond our control! ") From the resort we chose was not yet" Complete "! Then we propose an alternative. Here comes into question the merit with which these changes are made the target, especially in so few days after departure. Possible, can I say that only 5 days before departure we realize that the resort has not yet been completed? Boh! There settle the Barcelo Jandia Playa 140 km compared to a sub that was our choice on all'Aloe Club Corralejo. Fight for three days to get the free extension of self for the whole week and thanks to our agency we can. At least in that we were good.

Un po 'especially disappointed and concerned about what might happen with Theorem in place starting on the morning of August 23 at 4! We arrive at the airport and after long queues withdraw all documents and do the check-in. We do not? So smile, and we embark on Eurofly flight towards Puerto del Rosario! At about 12 (after 4 hours of perfect flight) and we touch the ground the first time ... surprise! Bruttissimo! But it was an island surrounded by sun and wind hot Saharan? Mah .. I must say that was not only cloudy but relatively cool (about 24 ° C). However we must be confident, we know the time, especially on an island, it changes suddenly and so we are sure it will come out a beautiful day! Theorem Al counter at the airport there is chaos ... people in a row asking about disordered coaches who will lead them to their destination ... many of the usual attitudes furbetti trying to avoid the line voltage to the stars ...! But we were all on vacation? Mah ..

However after some jostling and raising our voice to reach the bus to our destination. Duration of transfer: approximately 80 minutes ... because mannaggia Corralejo was much closer. Vabbè will be a beautiful place! We see in this transfer that the roads are not very good ... not many are paved and those that are have a very narrow roadway. The more you go south to Morro Jable and more is worse.

In contrast, there is a landscape that, despite the time-optimal leaves is wonderful ... no words ... there is no tree or plant that has a stem more than 20 cm high ... the only large plants are the palm trees. .. everything is very dry ... in some places there is the feeling of being on the moon or on Mars since the color of the soil that in some transition tends to red! Beautiful, truly speechless!

As we get closer to the final destination will open up more and more beautiful landscapes, still more beautiful and wild ... we get to the part called Costa Calma and begins the most beautiful beach (according to all!) On the island of FUERTEVENTURA. .. over 25 km of white beach lapped by a turquoise-blue sea and beautiful ... 'the stretch that goes from Costa Calma to Morro Jable.Comprende the beaches of Playa de Sotavento de Jandia, Playa de Buithondo and Playa del matorral. Without words, very belle.Sono beaches XXL-wide (200 meters in some places) and find an umbrella to your side is one of a choice with respect!

The resort is just beautiful and disturbing at the same time: it's a city perched on a hill opposite the Playa del matorral. A city in the sense that the resort is huge complement of over 600 (!) Rooms, 6 bars, 5 swimming pools, theater, disco, etc. etc.. This is the disturbing fact that one would expect the little inn of a small seaside town and there is a resort that is home to half the population of a small Tuscan town! But in the end who has (or will) to FUERTEVENTURA will be aware that most hotels are of this size and therefore need to make the best of a bad game. I must say that i have total comfort ... and then we can not complain ... sure the beach is beautiful and the rooms are very beautiful.

A note speech deserves the beaches, in FUERTEVENTURA, as in all of Spain, the beaches are all owned and therefore there is no permission to build directly on the beaches. This is very good (although there is some construction, but swear that the place that demolition as soon as possible) but be prepared for a nice walk to get to the sea ... you have to go through the whole resort, the road that runs alongside and then 150 -200 meters of beach to reach the burning bagnasciuga. I must say that in very hot days (which are then arrived on time) it is no very piacere.Se to be caught mid-journey by visions drink a little 'of water and see that everything will pass. PS do not try to remain even without water if you are not lovers of the risk!

On the beach there are sun beds with umbrellas (which occupy a very small part of the beach but could not be otherwise!) As a payment made by the municipality for the whole day an umbrella with two beds to Playa del Matorral cost 7.5 euro . dell'ombrellone The choice of bed and then it is very personal: we have never taken, we prefer to walk or sunbathe. However there is another particularly important: the wind! Since the island is called FUERTEVENTURA (Spanish strong wind) will understand by yourself that the wind is the dominant constant of your stay and not leave you ever, even at night and even in remote central areas. Now continue the story for days to give an order.

 

First Impact

We arrive at the hotel around 14 hours ... assault (shameful) to the resulting reception (shame) by the staff of the resort which seemed very surprised to see people get all that .. it was almost unexpected. The staff there seemed very slow and disorganized. Took over two hours (!) To allow us the room citing excuses always very trivial and then gradually more and more irritating! However do not worry because the staff will always be this theorem to solve all your problems! Translated: If there arranged by yourself you are truly scrubbed, then get ready because it does not come out alive! After the room we take out our rental car (no boredom with the problems that have arisen concerning the withdrawal and for the delivery) a fantastic Seat Cordoba. At 17.30 we go to the beach to test the water and take a swim. The water is very beautiful, definitely move, but not particularly hot. This is the beautiful and the ugly of the ocean. If you expect a hot water such as the Maldives or the Red Sea ready to change decisamente goal, since the water is decidedly cool. This does not disturb especially when the outside temperature rises dramatically.

In the evening, after a rich meal in a mega buffet (not a joke) of our resort, we do a tour by car to the small town of Jandia which is a few hundred meters from the resort and then to Morro Jable (about 4 km) . Jandia is a small town "artificial." These are all hotels and pensions, with dozens and dozens of restaurants, pubs and nightclubs, as well as stalls and shops for tourists. There is also a doctor (multilingual) and a major center commerciale.Insomma if you want to do shopping is the right place. Morro Jable hand has more the character of the village of FUERTEVENTURA, and low white houses, small shops that sell fruit and vegetables, some place to eat but most felt the proximity to a tourist area so important and then you will not find things cheaper than Jandía . Only a little 'more than local people and nothing more. Further south is the port of Morro Jable where there are ferries to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. Tired we go to bed.

Playa de Cofete

This morning, the time seemed better than the previous day, but the wind is much teso.Alle 10.30's briefing of the Theorem and from the good guests choose to participate in order not to offend anyone. Immediately we realize that it in our presence. There are over 300 people in theater and tizia the theorem that pitted trips and fares for the various excursions organizzate.Inoltre are the rules of repeated and especially those which are the types of service (half board, full board and all inclusive) . But all this does not interest us because the hotel has a comprehensive leaflet in Italian to tell us everything we need ... and then let the briefing, and go to sea! The wind on the beach is really strong, the sand will beat violently on the legs and if you try to lie submerged! So we decide to make two steps and we are heading south towards the town of Morro Jable for instance. Several swimmers are completely naked and we remember that FUERTEVENTURA is a paradise for nudists. Spain is allowed to go to the beach without a costume and then, despite the presence of many people some bathers (in this area we have seen especially the elderly and foreigners) to determine the naked integrale.Devo say that nobody seems to do the event and after a few hours even the most maliziosetti have stopped watching! The sea is rough, large Mounting arrive on the shoreline and is very fun to swim. Hazard for children equal to zero if you stay close to shore: there removed because ocean currents are strong and immediately draws you off!
We do lunch at the buffet of the resort and then we put ourselves in macchina.Decidiamo going to see the southern tip of the island: the lighthouse of Morro Jable Jandìa.Passato the road ends and begins what Spaniards call "STERRAD". One would think a country road while it is a path best suited to the Camel Trophy that a Seat Cordoba. Adventure and we now we realize that the car will be put to a severe test by the path that will be assured of enormous difficulty. Many are those who travel by jeep or pick up and have all my respect! However (the car was not mine!) Strong policy Kasko I had signed up we will venture to the village of Morro de Potala and then the Faro de Jandia, tip of the island. We spend over an hour to 20 km but the landscape that awaits us all the hard work pays off: it is a wild indescribable, the wind is very strong storm in the sea but the sounds, the scents and colors are very beautiful. We also made 30 and 31 on our (inevitable) Lonely Planet to read the Playa Cofete which is located on the western side of about 10 km from Faro. Andiamo hopeful but the road gets tougher, we begin to come to the Montana Agunda (500 meters) and to "pass" it opens a show ever seen dozens of kilometers of virtually deserted beach, bathed by the sea in a storm! It seems a framework for what is beautiful! We throw ourselves headlong to reach it but the way we create many problems and then use a 30-40 minutes to cover the 7-8 km rimasti.Siamo on the beach: There are some campers who are camping free (banned by the authorities but it seems quite acceptable if not create environmental damage) and several cars that have had our own idea. We do a nice walk, a few photos but the bathroom is beyond dispute. The sea is very stormy, there are waves of 3-4 meters and the current is very strong. Also, the wind has reached unacceptable levels, but irrespective of all, we are there to take sole.La the west coast is more beautiful and wild in the eastern (plus tourist), but is beaten by strong winds and currents and merciless ocean dall'onda which makes the coast suitable for all lovers of the surf.

The village of Cofete (about 500 meters from the beach) is abandoned (at least so it seems) and also the restaurant which is located just behind the country appears to be the ideal place for a bite to eat (at least for cleaning!) E ' open only for lunch, then ventured there at night because it would be completely useless!

The sun begins to decline, but we can not wait for the sunset, the road to return to the resort is long and we do not want to face it at night. So reluctantly we go away and we go to our resort.

Betancuria

The morning greets us with a thick fog ... it seems to be in Piacenza in a morning of January! But how can it be fog in FUERTEVENTURA? Boh, and then go with the weather can not explain ... but you are on the road, we realize that this is not fog but ... Sand! The entire island is surrounded by a giant cloud of sand! The resort staff explained to us that especially in the days of the sirocco wind carries huge quantities of sand from the sahara desert, giving life to real sand storms! The Sahara is only 80 km and then the wind can paste them in a glance!

Incredible, is a surreal landscape, almost inverosimile.Il sun is hidden but it is a warm terribile.Decidiamo thus take advantage of the weather situation and to move towards the center of the island, to follow a cultural journey in the footsteps of the old villages of FUERTEVENTURA. The roads are all paved and in central areas of virtually no one will find not for tens of km! An important warning for all those who rent a car: attention because the petrol on the island are quite rare and there are large areas without the ability to refuel! Think about it before because otherwise you will be a push!

Tuineje visit, Paraje up to the old capital of the town (or rather village) of Betancuria.Il landscape is always the same: the great rocky mountains, nothing about anything beside anything ever! Only a few goats (cabritos) and few houses. Betancuria does not deserve the way to get done, I assure you. There is a church (you pay 3.5 euro to enter), a small square shops that sell souvenirs, an abandoned ruin and restored too say that being the first Christian monastery on the island but nothing more. Then put the sand and the hot-Saharan Africa more than 35 ° C and then understand why we then decided to go fired towards the sea! Before arriving in Betancuria you point out a small village Vega de Rio Palmas ... this is a village that lies along the banks of a river dry (for decades I think!) And along the shores there are plenty of palm trees and plants fig d 'INDIA. It seems that the vegetation will grow through the aquifers that still resist the sottosuolo.Vista from above seems to be a real oasis in the desert! However, if you want to make the trek (some did) look at the hot stock and bring plenty of water! The desert is also full of scoiattolini very nice ... if you try to stretch a piece of bread are now close to you!

At sea we came again on the west coast (the Wave!) In Puerto de Los Molinos.Il place is beautiful, this is a small creek where he was born a tiny village inhabited by the locals who attended only to the sea ( I do not believe that nobody alive!). There are two small restaurants (with prices way via del Corso), but the sea is very beautiful, with beautiful waves and super clean. The bathroom can be done as long as you know struggling with the waves! PS do not make bad figure because there are so many kids who are like torpedoes!

We begin to understand the climate of the situation: when on a coast the weather is beautiful over the situation can be very different. Indeed in this day of the storm of sand on the eastern side of the island (the one that looks towards Africa), the west coast was relatively spared from the sand and then the weather was pleasant and the sun shone! So advice: before you change side can be sure that the weather is bad on the whole island!

Having bought a nice bottle of water slowly return to the resort ... i km we need to do so are the streets and ... well we know! There are wide stretches of asphalt is (from Puerto del Rosario to the center and towards the north, just to understand Corralejo) which are very beautiful, but if there is plan to push up a think .. well the limit of 90 per hour is quite severe and is allowed a maximum speed of 100 all 'hours ... otherwise the Guardia Civil become your nightmare! Many machines (tourists) are regular stops for having exceeded the long continuous strip, or for not respecting the above or to the speed, if you do not want to pay high fines comportatevi well ... and then the wind in many traits is so strong that risk of going off the road (we saw before us a jeep facing this beautiful experience!)

After dinner we go to see the shows organized by the resort and I must say I'm pretty fun and enjoyable! In addition to the all inclusive I have to say that it is a joy to spend some time at the bar! If the day there was the hotel staff is very happy to prepare a packed lunch ... consists of two sandwiches (schifosi as only the British families who are preparing the packed lunch for their guests to know!), Half a liter water and a fruit. Better than nothing ...

Rain in Furteventura!!!

In the morning another nasty surprise: it's raining! Unbelievable but true, we managed to get rain in summer in FUERTEVENTURA! According to the statistics is FUERTEVENTURA, Lanzarote with the less rainy island in the Canaries and especially between July and September there is to see a drop of water ... but we managed to cheer (literally) even the inhabitants of FUERTEVENTURA! So in a beautiful rain we head towards the beach of La Pared.Si is a place renowned by surfers, who are exploiting the ocean currents to practice their favorite sport. The beach is approximately 5 km to the west than the Playa de Jaquet. At that point the island of FUERTEVENTURA is at its lowest width, just 5 km. The beach is as usual very beautiful and the waves are pretty alte.Inoltre blows a strong wind that makes it even more impressive. But the rain really is constant, then we head on the other side (there's always the trick to resolve the days bruttina!) And we go to Great Tarajal. The place is not anything that the marina is nice, there is some shop with attractive prices, but the beach is of lava and then the whole dark, not beautiful like those we have seen so far. Take something refreshing at a bar on the pier, the heat is oppressive. Despite the rain we have 35 ° C with a terrible. The afternoon gives us glimpses of calm and then return to La Pared to go swimming and enjoy the scenery really incantevole.Torniamo evening at the resort, destroyed by fighting with the waves, and above all hopeful for the next day. Will get good weather!

North of the island

At last our prayers have been answered. The day was perfect, calm and clear ... the wind is just beautiful warm temperatures climb upward. But finally we can see the colors of the sea and the desert!
We decide to move northward, destination Corralejo. Marching towards the 9.30 we expect over 130 km to reach the final destination. Let hour drive aligned behind big trucks, a couple of stops to buy a few bottles of frozen water and then to arrive at 11.30 the famous dunes of Corralejo. This is a stretch of 4-5 km along the coast where the wind has brought a lot of sand from the nearby Sahara and the landscape is likely to recall the desert! There are sand dunes several meters high and the sand and park along the finissima.Si road and then armed with lots of good will begin the walk in the sea deserto.Per need to do a traverse of 10 -15 minutes (depending on the point where parked, as the road that runs along the sea departs somewhat 'in some points). The heat was infernal, and incredible to say, the wind was much weaker than the southern part of some breakers Jandìa.In was completely absent! However we are told that this is an exception, confirmed by a number of round stone buildings on the beach. These are small nuraghe very low, which are designed to mitigate the unpleasant effects of the wind and then live in days when Eolo decides to blow stronger. Are usually occupied by naturists who are seeking a little privacy ... but beware the dunes (attention as good) because they are popolatissime of nudisti.Chi was embarrassed should make some more km to the north where there are mega hotels Beaches in which it is not practiced naturismo.Mentre south we saw many men and few women are naked, but here the many couples have no costume and a few minutes after the embarrassment ends.
In the afternoon we moved to the west to another very famous, El Castillo.Si is a small fishing village, not yet destroyed as part of Corralejo from crazy constructions of hotels, resorts and shopping centers commerciali.Ma seems to be are preparing to do so, given the many cranes and construction sites that are open. However it is worth making a visit to the Faro de Tostòn a few kilometers north from paese.La the east of Faro is less edifying ... a kind of shanty town, with dozens of tents and caravans on the beach to form a sort of Free camping 50s ... let's say that in my humble opinion, the Guardia Civil (especially attentive to the movement of the car) should put an end to this scenario is not just uplifting ...
The part south of El Castillo is dominated by the Playa del Castillo ... a beach made up of two bays ... a very large and deep ... let's say a 2-300 meters and the other more piccola.Su these beaches naturism is rampant then you are all warned ... there's a certain discomfort to be dressed in a huge community of people here nuda.Il wind becomes strong and the temperature is more acceptable than the dunes of Corralejo. I have so many kite enthusiasts and is a real manna.Attenzione to tide because the second inlet of the beach of El Cotillo several times and remains isolated in the day because of the tide ... so careful otherwise you will have to remain stuck to a small rise climber free to return to the car. The road, about the car, it's bad luck for the stretch ahead is short.
Around 18 we head for Jandía where we arrive after the 20 after more than two hours of twists and overtaking ... destroyed by the day we go to sleep.

Pozo Negro...

For rest of kilometers the day before we decide to go to the beach of the nature park of Pozo Negro. Certainly the name is not encouraging (because black? Pozzo Why?) Do not speak the guide but to tell us which resort is very beautiful. The distance from the resort is large (for this we thank once again the Tour Operator) about 60 km but we put ourselves in motion. Upon arrival, a nasty surprise awaits us ... ... Pozo Negro is a small cove completely stony and rocky beach with all neri.Un beautiful place (maybe) so far from the tourist attractions but in reality out of the question for the opportunity to spend a nice day! The village which is located at the back of the cove is squallidino, so sad and desolate, there we go on. We go where? There are 60 km from Jandia and many from the beach of El Cotillo and then for the same distance back to El Cotillo to enjoy the beach and the sea wonderful. Certainly the evening fatigue ago by the masters, we no longer have even the strength to eat (a way of saying!) And the following day we impose a journey more comfortable and easy.

The last day!

E 'complete the last day of our visit to FUERTEVENTURA and we respect our blood pact: convenient route and then decide on a short trip to La Lajita.Si found at a resort 30 km to the north, where there are a botanical garden and a small zoo. We are, however, interesting to Camel Safari! Indeed there is the possibility of doing a tour of 40 minutes in the back to a nice camel! Come on now, we pay 7.5 euros per head and we put ourselves in a row .. the heat is unbearable kids and tourists are beginning to English acknowledge small hallucinations ... At 11.30 we go on camel .. the staff is very nice now is trying to calm children who are very frightened. In fact, the camel is very peaceful (at least it seems), but the verse sounds frightening and above all seems to be pretty stubborn! Each camel can carry up to three people and the tour is suitable for those who do not suffer from stomach ... finally I understood why it is called the ship of the desert ... bring Travelgum!
In the end we also offer a nice picture for the price of 3 euro ... the figure is not unreasonable.
Taken by camel go to one of the most photographed beaches of FUERTEVENTURA ... throughout the Playa de Sotavento de Jandia. This is a beach from Costa Calma and Esquinzo where the tide plays a "surprising" ... the wide white beach is virtually isolated because of the tide. So with the high tide the water effect is once again the sand for a stretch and then water .. still looks like a large pond along 2-3 km! The effect is incredible, think that in the "closed" there are people who practice the wind! If you want to make photos, please make a phenomenal place near the Boca de Mal Nombre. There is a breathtaking view and there are many tourists who go there just to make photos of this incredible place.
Let's go to a good part of the day and then we go to Morro Jable to do the last shopping mall and to return the car at the hotel (we have the time set for the mandatory 17 hours). How to buy tell us that? Many buy the Aloe Vera I have thrown on liquor Cactus Rum and honey. De gustibus .. there are things much features. You'll find lots of perfume shops and electronic flutter reduced price all'osso. This is because the Canaries there is a system of VAT, the 4% but in reality the cost for us to at least Rome does not exist. So after some price comparison, we realized that going to some mall all'outlet Italian and also the price are equal.
The guy at the hotel (antipaticissimo) reception tells us that the car will be withdrawn from Hertz only the next morning and it suggests that under our sole responsibility to keep up in the evening ... but you know what? Fatigue may play bad jokes so we decide to enjoy some 'entertainment of the resort (we have not been practically) and then we throw in the pool and tested the different bars. To say that the resort is our unknown just think that only the departure of the evening we realized that there is also a whirlpool!
However, the holiday is (sadly) over.
On the morning of August 30 there other syrup hours of bus to get to the airport. The assistant coach Theorem gives us the latest recommendations for the procedures of check in but we (like most of these) did not listen either. . are all sad and malinconici.L 'arrival at Fiumicino is devastating ... then send us to take the bags about three (I swear) different tapes and then after an hour of wheezing searched our bags, turn on the tape rather than from Tenerife from Puerto del Rosario, however, Oram ... the holiday is over and we take (as usual) a good suitcase loads of beautiful memories.
If you have come this far, you were just concerned. So to you a warm greeting and a goodbye to the next trip!