Madrid: a city under restoration works.. Spain

Text and photos by Anna M.

Guide used:
Madrid - Book City "Corriere della Sera" - vol. 8
Madrid Top 10 - Geo Mondatori - n.ro 16

 

Together with my friend Roberta, companion of adventures and his friends Roberto and Cristina, left for Madrid.
The outward flight was a bit bumpy. During take-off during the ascent, which has a light bulb, someone says no, the fact remains that there was a small bang and a small explosion along the corridor, right near the posts Roberta and Cristina. People have a bit alarmed, ever falling plane, but the hostess does not have the slightest break. The airplane continued its climb and people have calmed down. When we called down several times if the pilot had taken the patent from Cepu because it was a great downhill, but it was not all his fault. However when we finally feet, or more wheels to land the plane and falls to pieces. Some people have been arriving directly in the head not only the oxygen masks, but the entire piece of aircraft, shelf, buttons and lights. Fortunately we were already on earth!

Retrieved our luggage, we immediately direct the search for the bus, free, allowing you to move from one terminal to another and then going to take the subway that leads us to the city.
The trip is fast, we consulted the map to see where our hotel was and what was the closest stop.

For those who do not know Madrid is the capital of Spain. The story begins in Madrid more or less around all'852 when the Moors built a fortress near the Manzanares river or river, is a 'point of view. Then the story is obviously going forward but there is no need to dwell on these aspects.

In Madrid it is hot, very hot. I must say that the first impact with Madrid is not the best. La Calle de Fuencaral, the way to our hotel, it's all in turmoil, some buildings are a little 'crumbling. A group of fans passing through the street singing hymns of glory.
We find the address and the building of our hostal (http://www.hostallosalpes.com). We are somewhat 'dubious. We enter and we are the stairs. The building is undergoing restructuring, are the lift and doing a lot of work. We reach the floor of our building and play the bell. Is to open a clear from Mrs South American origins that does not speak a word of English, just bad, it will mean that exercise our miserable Spanish.
We must admit that because the building we were no longer so convinced that our choice was good, sometimes when you play a little 'too is likely to save the cheat, but the interior of the apartment is very nice and cared. A long corridor leads to the rooms we booked. Our room was very nice, clean and the furnishings are quite new. The bathroom is also spacious. Directly from the window in the small courtyard of the palace now fully outline the scaffolding for different jobs. Despite the blades to the ceiling in the room is very hot. We give a sistematina and we are ready to go out to discover Madrid.

Crossing the trafficatissima Gran Via and take in the direction of the Calle de Montenero completely restructuring. Un po 'a chaos pass. Among the bystanders, tourists and shops, stop the 'ladies' waiting for clients. But this is nothing but one of the many faces of Madrid today.
Brings us to the Plaza Puerta del Sol, across a yard. This first impact in Madrid reminds us that the Torino was preparing for the Olympic event, construction sites and shipyards. La Puerta del Sol is a little 'the heart of Madrid. It is a street of people and cars, they may pass as the yards are closed most of the square and transit. At the center of the square was an equestrian statue of Charles III. While it faces the southern side of the square, the Casa de Correos, that the original post office built citizen in 1760. Subsequently became the Ministry of Interior. During the Franco regime police cells located under the building were the place of torture. In 1963, Julian Grimau, a member of the clandestine Communist Party, was executed, and think that it was miraculously saved from a window and spearhead of the higher floors. Currently this building, teeming with ghosts (imagine if we do not have all the cruelty that we practiced), houses the regional government.
The entrance of the Calle del Carmen, a beautiful street of shops, there is the statue depicting the symbol of Madrid: a bear. Even here, among the street people and those who pose in front of the photos just take a picture of bears is virtually impossible.
From a historical point of view this place was the scene of various important events. Here in 1808 began the revolt against the French forces of occupation, but the outcome was not, for the Spaniards, positive. In 1912 he was assassinated Prime Minister Jose Cabalejas and in 1931 from the balcony of the minister of the interior, the building that I imagine teeming with ghosts, was proclaimed the Second Republic. While very important, September 16 2006 this square transiting the four illustrious Italians: I and my three traveling companions! Ah ah ah!
Leaving the Puerta del Sol we head towards the famous Plaza Mayor. This is a magnificent square surrounded by rectangular buildings in typically Spanish style. It is one of the most famous squares in the city. Born as plaza de Arrabal (square in the suburbs) because it was located outside the city walls. At the center of the square, the equestrian statue of Philip III, who was also the one who commissioned the construction that was completed in 1619. But the current design and granite porticos were designed by the architect Juan de Villanueva (the same as the Prado Museum) that the redesigned after a fire in 1791. In the history this place has a very rich past. It was the scene of the markets, bullfights, executions and outdoor theaters. Now it is a pleasant place in which to enjoy a little 'the charm of this city.
From here we move, wandering through the streets towards the cathedral and the Palazzo Reale. Through the feature plaza de la Villa. Around this square there are some of the most important buildings of the city. It is said that Francis I of France was imprisoned in the Torre de Los Lujanes after the defeat at the Battle of Pavia 1525. Also on the square facing the town hall.
After a few photos of the rite we move towards the cathedral. It is the hour of the function for which one can not rightly enter. Some pictures on the front of the royal palace and then route to the Puente de Segovia through the Parque de Atenas, where they are preparing a kind of amusement park.
The roads in the vicinity of the bridge lies in remaking, yards to the right and left.
Meanwhile it's time for dinner, so let's find a restaurant near Plaza Mayor that brought good prices. Dinner with a paella, not the best, but with a good plate of fish as the second.

Today is Sunday, we have established a respectable program. After a quick breakfast in one of the many local service providers that we are at a time of El Rastro, where, on Sunday morning, you set the famous flea market. The origin of this market dates back to medieval times.
Walk across the Calle de Toledo to get the same name Puerta (de Toledo). La Puerta de Toledo is one of the last two strings are still present in Madrid. Its construction was ordered by Joseph Bonaparte in 1813 had to commemorate the ascent to the throne of the new Spanish king after the defeat in Madrid. But this reign was short, therefore, that the construction was finished the arch was named after Ferdinand VII.
From here we intrufoliamo in the streets of the area of El Rastro wandering for various banquets. Almost by chance, wandering through the streets come the charming Plaza de la Paja. Square that was once the center of medieval Madrid. The products displayed in the spaces marked by the antiques, the usual things in markets, such as jewelry and clothing, up to real merchandise pulled out of some attic or basement.

Will then continue to the centro de Arte Reina Sofia, a museum dedicated to the'900. Inside expose a beautiful collection of paintings by Picasso, including the famous Guernica, and other works by other artists such as Miró and Dalí.
On Sunday, the entrance to the tunnel for residents of the European community (finally some advantage) is free. The building is art: stained glass, metal. Key details are exposed in the sense that they understand and appreciate it is not so simple. Perhaps one of us who appreciate more and Cristina, the three of us to wander the halls looking at these works recalling some scribbles made by my grandchildren. Guernica in front of a large number of people. A cord that prevents people approaching too. The Guernica is perhaps the most famous of the twentieth century. The protest is against the civil war of the author. The painting was commissioned in 1937 by the Spanish Republican government for an exhibition in Paris. The painting was then exhibited at the New York Gallery until 1981. Indeed, Picasso had expressly asked that the work was not exhibited in Spain as long as there had been restored democracy.

Ended our museum visit we move towards the Paseo del Prado. The Estacion de Atocha is the subject of restructuring. Of course they have decided to put a new Madrid when I decided to come?
One stage of a cycle race, completely blocks the Paseo del Prado. Fortunately, we can cross and reach the Parque del Retiro. We enter by a side entrance, so you could say, la puerta de Murillo and the park seems little known. We find an information office and we are given a map dell'immenso park. We are really looking for a place to buy something for lunch. '600 In this huge park was for the exclusive use of the real, was open to the public only in 1869.
That the park had just attended was just a feeling, a feeling came all'Estanque is exactly the opposite. Lots on the lake sailing boats, the water is not much clear but some paperotto new peaceful and blessed him happy! To a high lake stands the monument to Alfonso XII. We buy something to eat and sit on the banks of the lake to enjoy a little 'rest.

We resume our journey from the Calle de Alcalá, before us the Puerta de Alcalá. This is a triumphal arch built by Charles III with the intention to beautify this area of the city. Say that the intention was successful. Turning into the Plaza de La Cibeles transenna also for the whole race in cycling. It would be one of the most beautiful squares in Madrid, but at this moment we are not allowed to verify it. So with the voices and colors of this race we go to the Prado museum. The Prado museum is free, also for the residents in the EU, on Sunday. This museum boasts the largest collection in the world of Spanish painting. There are masterpieces by Goya and Velàszques. The famous "Maya desnuda" of Goya (1800 approx) for which he was accused of obscenity. On display are works by authors including Flemish, French, Germans and Italians, as Botticelli, Tintoretto and Caravaggio.

Left the museum the Paseo del Prado is unobstructed by barriers. The cycling races and the entire organization is now only one more memory. From Fuente de Neptuno, slightly clogged by car, take the Carrera de San Jeronimo to get back to La Puerta del Sol Fuente de Neptuno, it must be said, is the usual fountain with a statue of Neptune, usually on the wagon pulled by two horses. This was was designed in 1987 and also fell in the decoration of this area of Madrid built by Charles III.

After dinner, we give a nice walk through the bustling city center, a showroom and a souvenir shop and then all to bed, tomorrow we expect another hike like this one today.

This morning we wake up the workers who start work on the restructuring. Cristina opens the window and finds the front sull'impalcatura, a laborer. No no .. been quiet, nothing to do with the advertising, so much so that Cristina closes the window immediately!
walk down the Gran Via with its austere palaces well preservatives, its restaurants, its cinemas, theaters, and its morning traffic retains a special charm. La Gran Via is the main artery of Madrid.
We arrive at the Plaza de Espana and continue along Calle Princesa and arrive all'arco de la Victoria. The arch was erected in 1956 to celebrate the victory nationalist during the Spanish Civil War. General Franco when Madrid came to his house by the crossing. Oh! The area is a disaster, a whole yard. The arch is not approachable, that pass below! For a change on top the arch is a sculpture with a wagon drawn by two horses.
Simply to cross the road and go up to the nearby Museum of America we have to do a tour that has dell'inverosimile. The fact is that at last we arrive and discover that the museum is closed. Closing weekly. Was really written on the guide but we had escaped. The Museum of America hosts a wonderful collection of items related to the Spanish colonization of the Americas, because in fact Colombo, as we say today, the sponsor for the trip put him in Spain!
We wanted to also climb the lighthouse de Moncloa but is temporarily closed. It is unclear whether temporarily or permanently. The Faro de Moncloa is a 92 meter tall tower opened in 1992 offers excellent views of the city and the Guadarrama mountains.

We leave this area and take to the parque del Oeste. Typical park with landscaped gardens, passing through a beautiful rose garden. Monday will be even worse but it is the desert, there's no soul alive. We reach the temple de Debod from where you can also have a beautiful view of the royal palace, the cathedral and turning the other side of the mountains Guadarrama .. The temple is closed today is the day. This temple is an ancient and authentic Egyptian temple of the second century BC Why is here and not at his home in Egypt? Because the Egyptian government in 1968 gave the temple to Spain as a tribute to the work done by Spanish engineers in trying to preserve the works of art by the flooding of the Aswan dam. Just an pensierino anything challenging!
From here we move to the Plaza de Espana. Sta morning we have seen the top, towards the Gran Via, now the middle, the most beautiful in the stone obelisk dating back to 1928. All'obelisco front of the statue in front of Cervantes and the character, Don Chiscotte, who does not know him! Ronzinante while riding his friend Sancho Panza follows him with her ass. Make a photo subjects living is virtually impossible given that the street people who pose in front of the two statues is almost endless. In the background of the square you can see the Torre de Madrid, 33 floors.

The program continues with a visit to the Palazzo Reale (€ 8). The royal palace, one can certainly define grand is on a high promontory overlooking the Rio Manzanares. It was born as a real fortress, but after a fire in 1734, Felipe V decided to trasformali in the building. Obviously, the work lasted not quite so much so that Philip V not only had the pleasure to see it finished, but even his successor. The royal family lived in this building until 1931. Currently living in a more modest building, so they say, outside Madrid. But in this building are still held ceremonies of state. How is it that they have not receive us?
My guide is quite detailed in describing the rooms for which we choose not to do the tour but to wander on our own. The rooms are very beautiful. You visit the throne room that retains the original furnishings from the time of Charles III. No, you can not prove the chair, the dining room with a number of impressive covered. We hope you have a good dishwasher! In addition to the halls of the palace are open to the pharmacy el'armeria. The first points out to pharmacies and herbalists of the past. The second exposes real weapons and armor. It can perhaps be considered the first museum in Madrid since its opening to the public, dates back to when Philip I inherited the collection from his father. Collection a bit cumbersome.
After visiting the Royal Palace we move to the nearby Catedral de la Almudena. Majestic! Its construction began in 1879 and ended in 1993. It can be said that the work has not progressed very fast, but there must also be said that during the Civil War was arrested at all.

The visit to the Museum of America will attract, not only because the guide mentions it as one of the finest museums in the city but because we want this piece of history. So we decided to slightly modify our program so that we can make a jump tomorrow morning. Always walk we move towards the Plaza de Colon. It is a square dedicated to Christopher Columbus, Colon in Spanish.
We la calle Alcalá. Traffic understood and austere palaces and beautiful, including the Banco de Espana, the central bank of Spain, and the Palace de Linares, opulent palace of late XIX where he still hosts the association that promotes Latin American Culture (Casa de America). We can finally see the Plaza de La Cibales without barriers, and from here continue to our destination. It is indeed a beautiful place, its environment is not bad and even fuente de Cibeles with palacio de Linares in the background makes her figure. Just to do some 'culture of the name of this fountain and then the square comes from the greek-roman goddess of nature that is represented at the center of the fountain sitting on his wagon pulled by two lions. The horses were too normal, she preferred the micetti! On this square, designed by the end of the 700 face four major buildings, and I will dedicate a nice photo at all. After the photo we continue on our way to the Paseo Recoletos. Passing in front of the library and the National Museum of Archeology come to Jardines del Descrubrimento. The square and a monument placed on the edge of the garden are, as already mentioned, devoted to Colombo. Really are two monuments in Colombo, with the classic spire pointing in Colombo and a more modern concrete at the bottom of the garden.
Spend what is left this afternoon to relax on a bench in the gardens, while Roberto wander around the garden in search of a few pictures shot for some particular, is attracted by this modern monument. The garden is quiet, some passing and some kid with the skate-board.

Towards evening the back streets of the center. Dinner in a local chain that offers those formulas packages where you pay a bit and eat, buffet, all you want (fresh € 9.70). We conclude with dinner at the excellent frozen yogurt.

Since this is the last evening Roberta wants to return to the Plaza Mayor. There's a lot of people and a lot of lives. It must be said that Madrid comes alive at night with people and life. We sit on a bench and stand for a chat for the rest of the evening.

Thus came the last day. We prepare our bags and leave the hostel. Since time is short and I have a flight at 15:45 to return home, we decide to take the subway in counting all those tickets we need and buy a carnet of 10. A single ticket costs € 1.
Our first destination is the Museum of America. Go up on the subway to find that a stretch of the metro is closed for work (again !!!). Incidentally, the section that served us. So we modify the path. We will do a tour a little 'longer but we can not do anything. Go to a stop in the area of the University. A student going to confirm that the courses are included. Do not we know in which direction the museum is because our map is not up to this area. We decided therefore to ask. Roberta and I see a distinguished gentleman and we decide that this certainly knows the museum. Roberto tried with a girl, but he did not know even what we were talking about the museum .. Stop this man and call the museum. In perfect English replied that there is not in Madrid and it does not know the place. Miiiiii but all happen to us. Finally find someone who knows where is this museum. It is not very convinced but we trust the same.
The museum (€ 3) is very interesting. There's fewer people to turn out in peace. The collection is arranged on two floors. The museum was founded in 1941. There are art objects, customary and religious. There is also a reconstructed Teppe and a hut from the rainforest.
After the museum visit we return to take the subway and we move into the area of new skyscrapers: Azca, defined by the guide a miniature Manhattan ... ohhhhh. There are two reasons why we go in this area, one because we want to see these skyscrapers and two because Roberto wants to go on pilgrimage to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium. His attachment to the stadium is not due to the fact that both the game of Real Madrid but in the famous finale of the 1982 world championship.
Nell'affollata leave the metro Plaza de Castilla. Above our heads one of the twin towers of the Puerta de Europa. They are strange, is the modern version, very modern, a triumphal arch. Are high, the beauty of 26 storeys, made of glass and metal were completed in 1996. Toh .. took 10 years! The guide shows which have survived to a financial scandal. Consoles us to know that certain things not only happen to us!
We stop for lunch in one of the local spread in this area. The going is impressive, all these skyscrapers housing the offices of large companies, but also read the guide to them that there are apartments, hotels, restaurants, bars and cinemas. Meanwhile a fire in a nearby building attracts the attention of many passers-by. The smoke is very thick and in a short time the streets seem shrouded in fog. The Bomberos (or firefighters), is rather trivial rush fast. In a short time and everything back under control and air breathing.
The weather starts to tighten as we are along Calle de la Castellana. Arrived in front of the Santiago Bernabeu Stadium let Roberto immortal temple of football, while we woman are not even pulling out the camera, things to men!
Impressive of the nearby towers and Picasso. Un po 'fuori luogo la Plaza Picasso with this strange structure arranged on three levels with gardens, trees and benches in the middle of the skyscrapers! The Tower of Europe located in Plaza de Lima was completed in 1982 and as if the plans were sufficient to sprout from the earth also has three floors underground. Torre Picasso instead was completed in 1989 by the same architect who design the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center in New York. A bit set for the towers'm Minoru Yamasaki. With its 46 floors is the highest building in Madrid. Aesthetically I prefer the Tower of Europe, this is all covered in aluminum, I like less.
And so we come to the metro that will take us back to the airport.
In front of the departures terminal greet my friends, they are continuing to Valencia for a few days of sea, I must return to the office, is not quite the same thing ...
The return flight was perfect. The plane has not fallen to pieces, and the pilot has not studied by Cepu. Arriving in Turin as a perfect time, while my maritini that I must come to and remained locked in tangenziale.
Madrid was a nice discovery. At first I was a little 'disappointed, perhaps because of the yards, but then its heat, its people, its streets, I have caught. It is a beautiful city, a sin not to go.