Two weeks in the tiny western Canary islands.. Atlantic islands of Spain

The Canary Islands are an archipelago of islands which enjoy a wonderful climate: a temperature ranging from 20 ° C and 30 ° C throughout the year, are ideal for those who want to enjoy a beach holiday at any time.

The best known islands are Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, but we decide to see those more wild and less touristy: La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro, who are also the most western of all.

Some practical information ...

INFO: As always, we carry the faithful Lonely Planet, but we also widely spulciago the site of the Tourist Board (www.turismodecanarias.com) for more information on each island.

LANGUAGE: Spanish know does not hurt, but now many people speak English in the Canary Islands. In some places, where the concentration of German tourists is especially high, has spread from the German ... The Italian is not known, but in Latin we understand!

CAR HIRE: We have turned to CICAR (www.cicar.com), which is present in all islands (with offices at the airport and the port of the ferry docks) and is also cheaper than the best known Europcar or Hertz. Remember to always ask if it is allowed to transfer to other islands (some companies not content).

GASOLINE: Spanish is called "gasolina" and the Canaries is much cheaper than in Europe (continental) because the government granted a special status with preferential taxation.

Map: The CICAR no GPS systems for hire, but each office can provide free maps of each island. The only foresight, since it does not include individual magnifications for the city, is to print a detail or directions on how to reach the hotel. The remainder of the match with a good guide (like Lonely Planet) is sufficient to turn.

FERRY: We relied on Fred Olsen (www.fredolsen.es), which has an excellent fleet and several strokes. And 'advisable to book tickets via the Internet (if you have a car) and then pick up the title in the harbor. When buying online are requested details of the car, unless you have them (why rent), then just write [xxxxxxx] in the "ID number" [rent a car] in the field "Type / model: when you present in port for the ticket, report the actual details,

ACCOMMODATION: For the first time we have benefited deil'ottimo level in the chain Paradores (www.paradores.es), which has obtained solutions in homes and luxury features, such as castles or structures in panoramic position. For those wishing to save money or make the most typical solutions, I suggest looking in the ads of "Casas Rurales". If you do not disdain the hotel complex of 500 rooms and more can also book an all-inclusive (there are lots of offers convenient) and then turn to your liking.

Whale Watching and Dolphin Tenerife offers many solutions "mass", mainly departing from Los Cristianos or Los Gigantes (the southern tip), similar solutions can be booked starting from La Gomera. It is usually medium to large boats that organize sightings grilled + / + parnzi snorkeling and provides a fairly high number of participants.
If, as we seek a more "intimate", I suggest you contact Ocean to La Gomera (www.oceano-gomera.com), a smaller agency that offers tours of 3-4 hours on board a refurbished ex peschereggio 's occasion, with a maximum of 10 participants driving more than the captain.

 

1 - From Milan to Icod de Los Vinos

And here we are today it's off to Tenerife!

To take full advantage of the day we have a flight that forces us to set your alarm before dawn).
Unlike last time, even at Linate traffic jam at the check-in, but the transition to metal detector is very fast and almost painless (for the first time one of our bags is chosen for a random check for traces of explosives) . And then we are warned that, due to congestion, we start with a little '(what?) Delay. Should not we still have problems connecting, because we have almost 3 hours to spend in Madrid (travel notes: If there is, buy saffron, as the Spanish one is excellent).

Let's go (and come) an hour late and take a ride to the airport (huge), though the shops offer the same things that you can find in Milan or Madrid as elsewhere (1 gram of saffron € 6.60 ). Do not resist but to a tapa (sandwich with Iberico jamon and cheese) from Tap Tap Tapas (prices jeweler) and return to the gate in time to discover that this flight will start with about an hour late ....

At the end we explain that to work, have only one runway ... the fact is that we start with an hour and a half late!!

But our expectation is not over: come to Tenerife, while waiting for the luggage, we practice to pick up the car CICAR (www.cicar.com). And we discover that it is still available: twenty minutes and should arrive!

Here comes our Opel Astra Blue, well maintained and set off in search of the hotel (Apartamentos Estrella del Norte, Icod de los Vinos, booked by www.booking.com): we lose almost immediately because of some road work, but we still find it ..... for pure luck, after taking a steep climb!

The apartment is nice and clean, very spacious, and if it were not for the time cloudy, have a beautiful sea view.

But hunger is felt and it's almost 18: the first round of patrol IperDino where do we find our micro Cart: flagon of water (around half the natural cost around € 2), milk and cornflakes for breakfast, so fruit (including of course the tasty banana canary).

We decided then to make a leap "in life" in Puerto de la Cruz, but there seems to be a quiet little town for pensioners and children.

We decide to tapear in a local suggested by Lonely Planet (Tapas Arcon, plaza Concejil 2) and less than 30 € arrugadas taste the famous potato (delicious) with green mojo (must like garlic) and rojo (softer), sardines , octopus in red wine and tuna "Gomer" (parsley).

With a full belly, we have to go back and fall asleep in the apartment!

2 - Tenerife north

August. In the Canaries, is a deeply felt celebration: the balconies and the streets are Spanish flags and icons of Our Lady of Candelaria (famous Mass and procession to be held today, every year, in Candelaria, in the north east of Tenerife).

After a ray of sunshine, the clouds returned to dominate the sky. Reject the Lake Martianez (Puerto de la Cruz) and head north. We are rewarded, because San Sebastian de la Laguna is presented in a beautiful blue sky.
The town is pretty sad concrete barracks, some very badly kept, no ornamentation. Only a few streets of old houses are typical Canarian balconies and ornate wooden windows, walls and colorful tree-lined squares.
Let's visit the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Conception (quickly, because you are in a function) and climb the adjacent bell tower (€ 1) to get a better overview of the town and the green region that surrounds it.
Let's go back to the machine and resume the Autopista del Norte to Santa Cruz.

We arrive in front of the famous auditorium (www.auditoriodetenerife.com) by Santiago Calatrava, which should draw the most famous Sydney Opera House.

Given good weather, we are tempted to succumb to the temptation of going to the adjacent swimming Martianez, but there seem to be too water park for tourists. And then we go to Playa de Las Teresitas (San Andres), famous for its golden sand, specially brought from the Sahara. We finally get some 'of the sun and also to make a quick (and chilly) swim in the ocean!

When hunger is felt, "rolls" in the near Bar Restaurante Cofradia de Pescadores: we enjoy a nice salad and a large mixed grill of fresh fish. It is a less economical choice of what you might think, but it is August and a good fish in the sea is a good way to celebrate.

To dispose of the room, saw that the sky is partially covered, we make a nice walk along the shore of the beach (now more crowded, but always enjoyable) and we take the rays of sun at times can pass through the clouds.

We take the car to visit Santa Cruz and maybe find a place to eat something fast.
Unfortunately, Santa Cruz is disappointing desolate, empty, sometimes decadent ... Anyway, it's Sunday and Mid-August: many shops are closed, many shut curtains ... Here too the church more characteristic (and also the oldest, as reconstructed) and Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Conception. We go then to the Plaza de Espana with its large fountain and large screen facing the Theatre Guimera. We would like to wait until dark to see the auditorium at night, but there is too long (this season the sun is around 21) and the city has already disappointed.

Again in the car, we decided to get closer to home and visit Garachico, which now seems cheerful and lively: lively festoons prepare to celebrate the San Roque (The Pilgrimage, August 16 each).
It looks like a bustling town with a pleasant promenade popular with many people, catch a glimpse of the natural pools, fed directly from ocean waves, we read of a little square where they found the elderly and young people. Something to eat at the stalls of the fair and see that our nougat is better than theirs.

Definitely a pleasant place to spend the evening of August.

Let us return to our apartment and the sky of Tenerife offers a few drops of rain to the very big banana plantations that surround Icod de los Vinos.

3 - Tenerife West

We wake up in the rain! Did not believe it, but maybe it's the price we pay for all the good weather that we have found in London two months ago ...

After breakfast and having prepared the changes of the day (just to be ready for the rain so much as the sun), we leave in the direction of Punta de Teno.

We use a little 'time to go through because it is being Garachico the procession of San Roque. We continue to Buenavista del Norte, which turns out to be a conglomeration of ill-kept houses and new apartments for tourists, large banana plantations and rough roads: with the rain and fog it is hard to appreciate!

The road (in good condition) leading to the lighthouse and Punta Teno begins with a series of multilingual signs that advise against going any further, especially in case of rain or strong winds (the rock seems to be very landslide). But we see that no one will be intimidated and we continue. In good time to be a dazzling landscape, but even with the rain impression: steep cliffs and crashing waves against the black rock, cacti ... In the sheltered cove near the lighthouse, there's even people doing the bathroom. Fortunately we have not given up, because the landscape is really nice!

Back in Buenavista, take the road to Masca, which is said to have been a den of pirates.

The road is very scenic (the inland valleys), steep and curvy, but also "miradores" stop for a photo. Now we get on top of the Teno Rural Park, the sun has dawned warm (almost hot), which also brings out the giant lizards, typical of this area.

We continue to Masca, a village perched on a rock in a secluded and scenic. There are a couple of restaurants in a very strategically placed to attract tourists (and in fact they are full), but we continue to Santiago del Teide.

The road becomes bumpy and, if possible, narrow and steep (in practice to do at first) and keep a lookout just a shame that the short supply "miradores" because each curve would deserve a shot.

After dodging the pass, we begin the descent towards Santiago del Teide, where we stopped just long enough to take some photos and see other restaurants (they say "cocina canaria), but we continue to Los Gigantes, as the heat begins to require a bathroom and a beach.

The cluster is a collection of houses and barracks for tourists, mainly British, with a marina for pleasure boats and excursions (For those who, from here there are excursions to dolphins and whales). The number of houses under construction suggests that the area really like, even if we do not understand where they can go to the beach: there are some sandy bays and rocky blacks, but we do not see large stretches (such as Las Teresitas) can accommodate many people .

After a tour of the tourist zone, we stop to eat at Bamboo Bar is so popular with the waitress who speaks English in English, radio and newspapers are in English and in the menu .... There are the typical fish and chips and meat pies!

With a full belly we reach Playa de La Arena, where we allow 2 chairs (3 € each) to escape the heat of the sand and crystalline order ... like sugar, black as coal!
The water in the creek is not so cold and the current creates waves and waves to the delight of young and old!

Enter the water with the black sand is a strange feeling ... The waves crashing on the shore seem very dark lava or mud ... Once inside, it seems to be in the oil, if it were not for the (in) consistency of water and its transparency, which lets you clearly see your feet, "White Milano" I hit the ground ... Upon leaving, the fine sand sticks to the skin, such as a shoe very tight ...

In a bathroom and a sitting of the sun, the beach until we are practically at the spectacular sunset. Then we continue the way home, but without going to Masca. Shortly after passing the pace, it awaits a new surprise: the low clouds, detained on this side of the cliffs, now form a thick blanket of fog, which forces us to keep pace very cautious. Po obviously not as good desist, but instead we lead the way for the cars that lined up behind us.

The fog takes us almost to Icod, but the coast is pretty calm and we decide to spend the evening at the Pilgrimage of Garachico. A crowd of people in traditional dress, curious visitors and all people seem guided into the square that surrounds the small church of San Roque (now open), a few meters from the sea. The orchestra entertains and makes everyone dance with music by Spanish and Canary Islands.

With the music still in my ears and head back to base and keep our fingers crossed that tomorrow will be a beautiful day: we have not yet visited the impressive Teide (3,718 meters), the volcano that dominates the entire island, and the highest mountain in across Spain ...

4 - Orotava and Teide National Park

Nothing to do: bad weather does not give a truce to Icod: even today the low clouds give us a view of autumn and sad. But we begin to think that it is precisely the area to be particularly troubled by the turmoil: watching television news and weather, it seems that other areas of Tenerife are already kissed by the sun.

We get ready and we start over again: destination Orotava. Before you even get off the car, just entered the center, being impressed: small tidy streets, ornamental flowers and elegant balconies.
Starting from Plaza Constitución and the Iglesia de San Agustin, we admire the Liceo de Taoro (www.liceodetaoro.es) and its rich gardens, the baroque Iglesia de la Concepcion and then ... the elegant Calle San Francisco, with the balconies of the most famous Orotava.
In the Casa de Los Balcones (www.casa-balcones.com) and (front) in the House of Tourists can admire the interior courtyards and numerous items of local (and of course begins the purchase of souvenirs).

Since the town we love, we decide to stop for lunch and opt for Restaurante Sabor Canario, which allows us to sample some typical dishes of meat, as well as the queso asado (roasted cheese) to recommend, both as an environment (typical Canarian house in quiet courtyard), both for the food and service (menu is also available in Italian).

We would have liked to have base here looks like a fun town for an evening stroll or a cerveza before going to bed ...

We welcome admired Orotava (it would be nice to have time to go back) and are looking towards the Parque Nacional del Teide (http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/teide/index.htm), hoping to be in time for the cable car: Last up to 16, very early for a country lunch at 15 and in a season when the sun sets at 21!

We refer to each photo miradores and arrive in time to climb almost to the summit of Teide (for the last stretch of pedestrian-only, you must obtain a special permit in time).

The price rise is low (€ 25 for adults), but was fully rewarded by the lunar landscape and the views of the valleys, some arid and desert, some green and lush, to the blue of the sea today can be seen only .
We stroll along one of the trails to establish that fact to almost 3800 meters above sea level becomes more difficult and is soon out of breath.

We descend back to base and we continue the way we did to arrive, while granting stops: one for an ice cream in the sun and then in almost all miradores, until you discover that a chain of low clouds (about 500 meters) still prevent the sun to get in some parts of the island, including Icod!

Back at the apartment to change us, we decide to spend the last night in Puerto Cruz. Unfortunately the room the other night is about to close, and then we sit in one of the other for a platter of Spanish cheeses and hams.

Tomorrow morning we leave the apartment to head south: in the late afternoon there waiting for the ferry to La Palma (not to be confused with the city of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria).

5 - From Tenerife to Las Palmas

Last day in Tenerife (but we will return) and of course the sun is shining ... even in Icod!

We leave without seeing the famous dragon millennium (the oldest Dracaena island, which for years he should have "only" 300-400).

Climbing up the road that we did the other night in the fog, we cross Santiago del Teide, we continue to Guia de Isora and come out on in Municipalidad de Adeide sea.

We aim at Los Cristianos to find the pier from which we will leave this evening direct Tenerife to La Palma. The long sandy beach not far from the port is a temptation more than enough to make us decide to park.

We stopped in one of the many restaurants overlooking the beach and we enjoy grilled sardines and squid, accompanied by the ubiquitous wrinkled papas (potatoes here but are larger and, I think, commercial).

And then rolled directly on the beach and the ocean, which at this point is a very pleasant temperature.

Unfortunately we can not stop what we want because we have to pick up ferry tickets (directly on the pier, in the palace of the Estacion Maritima) and place the machine in the appropriate columns.

While waiting for departure, we take a walk along the pier (also because the walk has raised more ventilated the square).

Boarding begins at 18.30 Benchijigua Express, a beast that has a capacity of nearly 1300 people and 340 cars! And at 19.00, on time, we sail.

The crossing (two hours) is quiet and gives us a peaceful sunset, unfortunately not complete because we come from the East: the sun plunges into the ocean, but it runs to hide behind La Palma.

Docked at Santa Cruz it is already dark Fortunately our hotel (a good Parador, four stars: www.paradores.es) is not far away. We reach them in time to find the restaurant open and do not skip dinner.

6 - Las Palmas

The first morning in La Palma welcomes us with a glaring sun that puts us in good spirits and allows us to admire the beauty of our hotel, with gardens, pool and surroundings.

We decide to rest the skin from the sun (I was also released a nice herpes) and focus on the inside of the island.

We go to the Estacion Maritima to ask the local CICAR a map of the island (but the office is closed) and Fred Olsen tickets to La Gomera (Saturday we will), then we start (the only map of the Lonely Planet) to research the road to the park's visitor center Taburiente Caldera (south side http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/taburiente/index.htm), but we find that the signs on the island are not as clear and detailed as in Tenerife and it seems that the street numbers do not match those shown on the Lonely Planet.

Fall back on the most reported LP4 that leads us to Roche de los Muchachos observatory and the world's largest.

The road winds for about 40 km with twists and turns, surrounded by lush vegetation, initially, split and multi-color, followed by pine ordered but not too compact. When the height becomes excessive even for the pines, takes over the world and often of low bushes. And on the horizon, beyond the sea and the clouds that surround it, as always, stands the Teide!

We arrive at the top to discover that the mirador is closed for renovation, but also from the parking lot and the path to the mirador, the view is breathtaking: the caldera lush and green, the blue sea in the distance, the peak of the orange and red stones. .. And the domes of the observatories that make it even more ... Moon!

Down the other side to Santo Domingo: even on this side of the road is steep and full of twists, but the scenery is wilder and more barren, burnt by the sun.

We arrived by chance at Garafía looking for a place to dine and we are greeted by the country in celebration of music, dance, the square decked bunks and large seems to have found a place where the whole country!
We are entering what looks like the only place open on this day of celebration and, at the end of the meal of meat, we grant a Prince Albert, typical Canarian sweet (a little 'too sweet for my taste, but good).

We are on our way again, heading south along the west side of La Palma. We discover that the area until Puntagorda is probably the least populated and less touristy, because then they start the larger countries with restaurants, bars and shops, a beach and other activities.

We stop for a stroll on the seafront of Puerto Naos, a quiet seaside resort with a beach (black) and several well maintained hotel complexes, all surrounded by banana plantations. Peace truly reigns, so that is automatically speak softly so as not to disturb the quiet surroundings.

By the way, do a little 'expenditure (water and fruit) at the local supermarket.

And we see that the banana plantations are just the beginning: miles and miles of road lined with helmets and full of plantations ordered more or less ripe (bananas are still the main source of La Palma).

Of banana in banana (and despite the many works in progress) we arrive at Fuencaliente and its lighthouse, on the southern tip of the island, just in time for dusk and the sunset.

The show is complete, the sea flooded with light from a side that clashes with the black volcanic rock (there is also a small beach with some fishermen's boats) and the other with the white of the salt (so important as to fall protection programs UNESCO).

It is time to return. We complete the circle, going to dinner at a local Santa Cruz (Pope Hortensia) and then to bed in our Parador.

There remains one question: can the whole day we saw a sign pointing to the National Park? Without a detailed map of the island, tourists can only reach the observatory or wander at random, hoping to find the entrance to the south ... The paths and hiking trails are well marked but appeared.

7 - Santa Cruz de La Palma and Los Cancajos

The sky is now covered, but perhaps to visit the city is better, without the heat of the blazing sun, we enjoy better than a sleepy stroll along the crowded streets of downtown Santa Cruz.

We follow the route recommended by Lonely Planet and walk the Calle O'Daly (escapes even a purchase for me, since it's period balances) and Anselmo Pérez de Brito (best) to Almeda Plaza, where we allow ourselves a good cafe y leche (a version of "stain to" our cap, if you do not trust to take the coffee black, the so-called cafe county council, which looks like a coffee stain).

The streets and shops are decorated with reproductions of famous dwarf, typical of the procession to the Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (http://www.bajadadelavirgen.es/actos.cfm?id=13), ordered the houses are decorated with flowered balconies cheerful and colorful facades. At the end of the walk, we find a replica of Columbus' Santa Maria (houses a maritime museum but we do not visit).

Meanwhile, the sun came out ...

We return to the car, along the seafront, dampened by the waves crashing directly against the railing, occasionally scaring unsuspecting visitors. We stopped to pick up some souvenirs (cigars and embroidery, but also sweet and products based on aloe vera), and return the car to go to the Shrine of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (there would also be pedestrian, but we fear will be, Whereas the gradient).
The simplicity of the exterior contrasts sharply with the elegance and richness of the interior and overall it is an interesting building, and spiritual.

Spent the morning's program, we take the car to Los Cancajos, friendly group of houses and hotels with a nice black sand beach. Just find the kiosk on the beach restaurant El Pulpo, who delights us with a good fried fish and beer.

Natural continuation: a nice nap on the sand, in the absence of the sun (the clouds are back), offers the warmth of a warm bed, at the sound of ocean waves.

And so we spend the afternoon relaxing and rest, after so many kilometers and the first dell'alzataccia tomorrow and transfer to La Gomera.

We stopped here for dinner, but changed very kind: continuing to speak Spanish, we let ourselves be groped by a Mexican restaurant with chairs shaped like a cactus: a choice not happy as money, but at least nice and fun.

Los Cancajos salute with a concert on the terrace: a chorus of musicians in traditional dress and enlivens the waterfront at sunset for the evening.

8 - La Gomera: the thrill of seeing whales and dolphins

Wake up before dawn (4 hours) to board the Fred Olsen will take us to La Gomera. In the distance you hear disco music and Santa Cruz greets us with its light yellow-orange lanterns, made more tenuous as not to obscure the firmament scrutinized by the researchers of the observatory ...

We're not the only ones to embark, but after an hour and a half hours of quiet navigation (sleeping on the chairs, despite the loud music) are the only ones to land (the others continue to Tenerife, together with those who board here). But our life at sea today is not over: in the afternoon we hike from the Valle Gran Rey, in search of whales and dolphins!

In San Sebastian de La Gomera life is waking up slowly in the harbor area and stop in one of the few bars already open for breakfast.

It is still a bit 'early, but still try to go to the Parador de La Gomera (www.paradores.es): If you can not have the room, we could at least leave your luggage or doze off in the pool ... But they have a free and ready, there is now assigned.

The property is in a typical Canarian style, situated on the hill overlooking the harbor and is very quiet, with a garden inside onto which the large rooms (only negative: the old-fashioned wooden floors creaking with every step) ... The sea can be seen in the distance, but the peace of the morning, hear the waves crashing on the rocks below ...

The sky is clear, but since we are on the opposite coast to the Valley, call to confirm that the boat trip is canceled (the captains decide in the morning, depending on the weather and the sea) there e. .. just have to take the car and cross the island. But only after a nap.

Between the coast and the other there are about 50 miles of scenic road, and of course full of twists and miradores!
The initial part is arid and dry with no vegetation. Looking east, the Teide ... cut in half the usual layer of low clouds!
Then suddenly around a bend and the trees are starting more and more dense, we are the National Park Garajonay (http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/garajonay/index.htm)!
One of the major attractions of the island is spectacular even hovering in the car, but the best thing would address one of the many well-marked trails!

For now pull straight towards the Valle Gran Rey, mostly desert, dotted with palm trees, cactus and aloe ubiquitous (reminder: buy local creams).

We stopped at Vueltas, in the south of Gran Rey, for a quick snack and a swim in the beach near the port from where our tour.
The sand is very black and very fine, the water has a pleasant temperature, but is not as clean as the other beaches we've seen so far (we probably would have done better to stop at one of the beaches further north, which seem more spacious and well required.)

We booked from Milan Ocean Gomera (www.oceano-gomera.com), a small agency that organizes trips "intimate" (maximum 10 persons plus the captain plus the guide) on board a classic fishing boat refurbishment for this type of activity.
We are actually in ten (eight Germans and us). The tour lasts about 3-4 hours, during which Fatima (our guide) explains the different species of whales and dolphins that live in or passing through the area, take photos and collects data for research.

It does not seem true, but we can spot a pod of playful dolphins (it seems to be a colony attached to this part of the sea) and a "nest" of pilot whales: several mothers who in turn look after and they play small, while the other down to get food.

I shoot in bursts (some can even good!), But it's an indescribable feeling, to see these animals playing and chasing each other, regardless of our boat and our exclamations of enthusiasm ...

Back on shore we have to take the sun, even if the heart can only hope that a new meeting ...
In reality, not far from the port we spot something odd that might seem from a distance the mark of a sub and instead turns out to be closely ... an old CRT TV!
Of course I fished out and throw it in the containers to the shore, making jokes to defuse an act so despicable!

It's almost 20 and we are tempted to stay for another beautiful sunset, but we still crossing the island. We share, be content to see the sun that comes close to the sea and in the distance, well defined shapes of La Palma and El Hierro.

On the way back we make a little detour to Las Hayas, following the advice of Lonely Planet, which directs us toward House Iphigenia (www.casaefigenia.com): in their view, an institution of local cuisine.
In fact Doña Iphigenia appears only for the greetings and the account (even giving us a handful of dried figs, very good) and in the many newspaper clippings and awards are properly disposed in a display case, while we are served by a young South American and Asian aide. Dinner (typical Canarian) is spartan (the menu does not exist: they decide) and a bit 'disappoint: gofio, salad, soup and dessert accompanied by a bitter orange. Frankly, we expected at least a taste of the famous milk of La Gomera. Maybe we had too high expectations or maybe created, we regret to say, Doña Iphigenia was in no mood or processed ...

Back at the hotel, along the road done in the morning, now illuminated by a nearly full moon and we fall asleep with the sweet memory of dolphins and whales frolicking in their natural environment as well.

9 - La Gomera north

We woke up again with the sun and a little 'wind. Suffered from a kind of jet lag for the heel elevator yesterday, but we stay faithful to the program today we expect the north of the island!

We start in the direction and call at Hermigua Vallehermoso, sleepy town that invites you to rest (according to Lonely Planet deserve the Museum of gofio and the arena for the lucha canaria). Beyond the clouds we seem to see the Teide, but in this part of the island today, the sky is not at all clear.

We continue to Agulo, where we take a stroll in the cobbled streets, between the colorful houses. The village is quite impressive, but it seems empty and asleep, perhaps only because it is Sunday morning.

A Vallehermoso (a much more lively) we stopped for coffee in the square, a trip to the ATM and grocery shopping (we are becoming avid fans of Canary bananas).
We also visit the elegant Iglesia de San Juan Baptista, newly restored to celebrate the first centenary.

We go down to the beach and the Castillo del Mar, which could have been a haven for pirates and is now sadly abandoned. It is a pity, because the guide said that was turned into a cultural center and would indeed have been striking and distinctive, inviting thrill for the kids ... But the reception seems to fall apart, the doors are locked with padlocks The board is faded and some parts are damaged by fallen stones and degradation ...

In this part of the island the wind carried some desert too. We decide to lose out to go to Alojera and its beach, touted as the prettiest of the island.

Go back to the center of the island and then go down again towards the northwest. Suddenly change the air: the sky blue again and the wind is hot and muggy, like a hair dryer pointed at us. No surprise that the landscape is so dry!
In the distance, separated by a layer of low clouds, the shapes stand out clear of La Palma and El Hierro is the first time this holiday, which we see as the four islands are close, at least to the eye.

We descend along the scenic and full of curves, which becomes increasingly narrow (especially in the country, where the roadway is reduced to the parked cars and houses) until it ends, just above the cove of black sand and stones (those seem to be smooth and blacks of massage parlors).

The wind became fresher, but the sun is inclement. We take the opportunity to dine at the Bar Restaurante Prism, separated by a mere steps from the beach. Fried calamari with salad and chips (2 servings) and grilled shrimp (1 serving): a real treat for 31 euro (including water, coffee and bread with the ubiquitous mojo in 3 versions and service)!

A few steps and we are on the beach: black sand beaches, with some rocks and water clean. The sun and the wind complete the picture. Waiting to dispose of the lunch, a frisbee improvise four pitches, but the cool water is a temptation that we can not last long ...

Spent the afternoon calm, between a water baths and a sun. Before restarting the machine, we allow ourselves an ice cream and then ... back on track!

To avoid some 'curves, we resumed the road that we did yesterday, which is wider and sweet. Meanwhile it has raised a great wind, which sweeps some harmless clouds over the sea and the sky makes it clear that, behind San Sebastian, allows us to glimpse the shape reassuring del Teide.

We arrive in San Sebastian in time for dinner at a lovely little place (El Pejin), decorated as the subject of a fisherman, offering excellent and hearty appetizers: jamon and queso asado Cerrano enough for us as a full dinner (add a salad because it good health and a Prince Albert that is good for the throat) and finally give us a chupito rum palm honey, typical of the Canaries.

Another beautiful day and excellent final canaria!

10 - Garajonay Park

Even today, the sun, blue sky and a bit 'in the wind.

Since a visit to La Gomera is not complete without a walk along one of the many paths of the park Garajonay (http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/garajonay/index.htm), we head to La Laguna Grande (now There is a refreshment center, but they say that once you should meet the witches) and take the path number 3, that demonstration.
This is a short circuit simple, well marked by wooden fences and containing some explanations (in Spanish and English) on the park, its flora and fauna.

We decided then to face a longer path: Pajarito we move to the parking lot and take the longest runway (and sweet) to the Alto de Garajonay. It is a track that could be done in off-road (if possible): Broad, well-wrought, although very sunny, the last piece even paved with gneiss.
We get hot and sweaty at the top (despite the wind), but happy and rewarded by the beautiful landscape that covers the entire park, the island (excluding the coast, too far down below the cliffs), the ocean the other three islands, e. .. of our trip: Tenerife, La Palma, El Hierro.

Right at the top higher the altitude of the island was re-created a circle of stones: an archaeological find that had been found a bit 'lower and that seems to have been dedicated to the worship of ancient deities. According to the Lonely Planet, the big pine tree that stands beside it would be a practical demonstration of the phenomenon of so-called "horizontal rain", but probably should be in the wettest times, to see it "running" and unfortunately it does not provide guidance on what can be the seasons or the best times to see this phenomenon (probably early in the morning, when the first warm sun gives off moisture from the soil cool).

We go down another path, also beaten and sunny, but more bucolic and steeper: down it takes a while, but if we had made up, would have been more challenging.

Back to San Sebastian we decide to make a detour to El Cedro: to our surprise, the road is actually a wide paved path (a two-way traffic!) Which is wedged into a ravine lush (maybe a bit 'extreme for our Opel Astra, but nice); gneiss that form the major move to the passage of cars, creating a sort of xylophone effect!

The road ends at the picturesque Bar Restaurante La Vista, which resembles a mountain lodge.
Despite the good intentions of being light, the atmosphere can not resist and ordered 2 dishes of goat meat, of course with the usual potatoes (total, beer, coke and coffee € 17). Definitely recommended, if you want to face the road to sample Canarian food in a friendly environment.

Retrace the path (always seems to return faster!) And finished the afternoon in San Sebastian .... stranded on the volcanic sand!

Being close to our Parador, back to the hotel for a shower and a change. Then we go down to town to eat something, possibly in the same room yesterday. Unfortunately it seems that is closing and then we fall back on a pocket not far: excellent ham and cheese, but the service is mediocre and the prices above average.
Back at the hotel, this time for a sound night's sleep!

11 - From La Gomera to El Hierro

Even today, the sun, blue sky and a bit 'in the wind.

Since a visit to La Gomera is not complete without a walk along one of the many paths of the park Garajonay (http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/garajonay/index.htm), we head to La Laguna Grande (now There is a refreshment center, but they say that once you should meet the witches) and take the path number 3, that demonstration.
This is a short circuit simple, well marked by wooden fences and containing some explanations (in Spanish and English) on the park, its flora and fauna.

We decided then to face a longer path: Pajarito we move to the parking lot and take the longest runway (and sweet) to the Alto de Garajonay. It is a track that could be done in off-road (if possible): Broad, well-wrought, although very sunny, the last piece even paved with gneiss.
We get hot and sweaty at the top (despite the wind), but happy and rewarded by the beautiful landscape that covers the entire park, the island (excluding the coast, too far down below the cliffs), the ocean the other three islands, e. .. of our trip: Tenerife, La Palma, El Hierro.

Right at the top higher the altitude of the island was re-created a circle of stones: an archaeological find that had been found a bit 'lower and that seems to have been dedicated to the worship of ancient deities. According to the Lonely Planet, the big pine tree that stands beside it would be a practical demonstration of the phenomenon of so-called "horizontal rain", but probably should be in the wettest times, to see it "running" and unfortunately it does not provide guidance on what can be the seasons or the best times to see this phenomenon (probably early in the morning, when the first warm sun gives off moisture from the soil cool).

We go down another path, also beaten and sunny, but more bucolic and steeper: down it takes a while, but if we had made up, would have been more challenging.

Back to San Sebastian we decide to make a detour to El Cedro: to our surprise, the road is actually a wide paved path (a two-way traffic!) Which is wedged into a ravine lush (maybe a bit 'extreme for our Opel Astra, but nice); gneiss that form the major move to the passage of cars, creating a sort of xylophone effect!

The road ends at the picturesque Bar Restaurante La Vista, which resembles a mountain lodge.
Despite the good intentions of being light, the atmosphere can not resist and ordered 2 dishes of goat meat, of course with the usual potatoes (total, beer, coke and coffee € 17). Definitely recommended, if you want to face the road to sample Canarian food in a friendly environment.

Retrace the path (always seems to return faster!) And finished the afternoon in San Sebastian .... stranded on the volcanic sand!

Being close to our Parador, back to the hotel for a shower and a change. Then we go down to town to eat something, possibly in the same room yesterday. Unfortunately it seems that is closing and then we fall back on a pocket not far: excellent ham and cheese, but the service is mediocre and the prices above average.
Back at the hotel, this time for a sound night's sleep!

12 - El Hierro: a luxury lunch and some sea

We woke up and the sun floods the room, just open the windows ... Maybe one of the next morning we wake up early to watch the sunrise, with the sun rising from the waters just across the street ...

After a quick lap of the hotel (wonderful swimming pool overlooking the ocean), we drive north. Having booked the restaurant for two, we decide to make a leap in Charco Manso, but when we get there, unfortunately it is cloudy. However, we admire this great natural swimming pool, complete with a lounge in the rock. The surrounding landscape is rocky with little vegetation, mainly low and bushy, with aloe and succulents large.

We continue the drive to the north west (much more green area, with some vineyards low) and, after traveling the long tunnel, we stopped in Las Puntas, where we marvel at the Hotel Punta Grande, famous for having once entered in the Guinness of Records as the world's smallest hotel.

There is still much time before having to run the restaurant. Let then a sunny break on the rocks next to this particular hotel.

And then we climb to the Mirador de La Peña, designed by Manrique. The structure is perfectly hidden in the mountain, respecting the form and colors (we hope so too is the conference center being built next!), The garden is a sort of botanical garden, complete with labels indicating the names of the different species, the Lizards scamper over the stones and along paths. The silence is total: it is automatically speak in low voices.
The view to the gulf is high and the internal environment and a quiet elegance and disarming. Service is first class and on time, the food excellent (point out the hors d'oeuvres of shrimp and tropical fruit, with the best pineapple ever tasted!).
I suggest a jump in the ladies bathroom at the back of the glass mirror has a beautiful view over the gulf below.
Having booked, we took a reserve of two tables in the front row, right in front of the window, one of those where they had dined the Spanish royal family during their visit to El Hierro in 2006.
The bill is obviously not of the lowest (2 starters, 2 main courses of fish, 2 sweet, water, wine and coffee almost € 80), but the quality of this whim so warrants and the amount of food as well.
For those wishing to try the restaurant at lower prices there is also a menu (3 courses) to € 12 per person, although probably the portions are smaller and narrower choice (2-3 choices, however, to flow) and drinks (local wine is not cheap, at least here!). Or the cafeteria, for a short break (we saw good examples of pastry).

Let San Andres Valverde and arriving at La Caleta, practically a small water park with small pools on the rocks (in a would seem to be a fountain, but now is off), but also the opportunity to swim in the ocean (there are even ladders up and down). It must also be an area popular with divers, because we see several people come up with dumb, and cylinders. The space for sunbathing abounds, but there is no sand or beach.
We stopped a couple of hours in the sun, but the wind is too strong in this area (and to think that there is also near the airport!) And after a while 'we're leaving.

We take the evening off at the Parador: we begin to feel the weariness of many kilometers (from the thousands we spent so much) and made all the laps.

13 - A complete tour of El Hierro

I could not resist the idea of enjoying the sunrise from the balcony of the room, even if we in the "continent" we do not have ideas too light on the timing of sunrise and sunset at this latitude! At the suggestion of her husband (who still refused to get up), the alarm point at 6.30 to find out that everything is still dark, lacking only the silvery moon last night that lit up the landscape! Around 7:30 the dawn is breaking behind the headland. At about 8:15 I can photograph a landscape completely gilded with the sun looks at me straight from the sea, just over the horizon!

I get me a nap, even if you do not really miss the alarm. In any case, last night we went to bed early this morning and we had already decided to stay at the hotel pool (we have discovered that sea water) because my husband loves to swim and I ... because every occasion is good for sunbathing !
We are a couple of hours during which time other guests arrive ... Time to get moving!

Valverde and we aim to return to La Frontera, along the inner road (now there's a "coastal" wider and less curved). We do not stop at various miradores, why should we take the paths that separate them from the road, but arrived in El Golfo ecstatic over the landscape, although there is some 'haze.

Arrived in La Frontera (very cheerful and lively), we stop for lunch 2 Din Don (excellent chicken).

We continue the march towards the extreme west and the wildest land, with the cliffs overhanging the sea, memories of lava, desert vegetation and scenic roads (good asphalt, but is rather narrow: it is better to go slowly and have the 'eye long to meet any other cars in case of wider road.

Let Sabine and Pozo de La Salud (there would be a source of therapy, but have turned it into a beauty farm) and we take the scenic route mail to the west, leaving behind the vegetation and discovered volcanic rocks that pass from deep red to glossy black at every turn, forming a lunar landscape.

We take the detour (about 1 km of dirt road but doable by car) to the beach to see the cove Verodal red sand and bathers who, heedless of the warning signs (falling rocks), bathe and sunbathe.

We return to the paved road towards Ermita Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes: more and more narrow with many curves and incredible views. We must proceed slowly and carefully, because it is a two-way and in many places two cars would pass with difficulty (luckily there's not much traffic).

We arrive at the crossing for the Faro de la Orchilla, which once marked the zero meridian (should be there at a memorial), but the road to get there (5-6 km downhill) is unpaved and do not feel the risk.

The complex of Ermita Nuestra Señora de Los Reyes stands suddenly and very white amid a grove of low trees. Unfortunately, we closed (a sign says it's open a few hours on Saturday and Sunday afternoons). We just have to make a turn around and leave. Among other things in this part of the island is very hot (the car thermometer said 35 degrees C) and there is hot.

Just behind the church leave the two roads (dirt) within a few kilometers (about 3) lead to El Sabina (the famous wind-bent juniper) and the Mirador de panoramic Bascos.

Groped and we decide to do it right: if done slowly and cautiously, the road is not off-road car. At one point we find a closed gate with a sign: "Go and close. Thank you." Enjoy this unusual practice, we follow the instructions and continue. The vegetation is still scarce and the intense heat, but we meet the cows, apparently left in the pasture in this poor land, hidden in the bushes.

El Sabinal is a fascinating tree, surrounded by double less obvious. The trunk seems bent bow down to the sea, touching the ground with lush foliage. In fact, a model is not common!

Reject the Mirador because, as often happens (also known as the Lonely Planet), we see a lot of clouds there.

Most of the cars that have come this far to turn back the same road, but we decide to continue the tour, along the same road (well paved, but a little 'tight) to San Andres. It is a part of the journey that probably is not good for anyone suffering from vertigo, because the road runs high up along the cliffs overlooking the sea and do not even have the guardrail! But it is really nice and has a fabulous picture of this island so strange ...

Arriving in El Julan the road is lined with pine trees growing thick, the ground seems to become red, but not of the earth: it is the coating of pine needles fallen over the years and left to dry on the ground. A beautiful area.

To take a break and take shelter from the sun, we stop at Hoya Morcillo, what should be an area equipped for camping, sports (there's even a football field) and picnics (but it seems like the barbecue). Unfortunately it all seems abandoned (it was not for the clean bathrooms and the employee who works at the information center) and the only thing of note is the reproduction of the island with pine logs cut (original and very well done: sin have raised a wide-angle from which to take the whole work!).

Go back to San Andres and then to the Mirador de Jinama, who gave us a beautiful view over the Gulf (sin in front of the sun, which allows us to take photos). From here it seems from a very nice path to La Frontera, but we are content to see the beginning (or end).

It is almost sunset and we had planned for dinner at a seafood restaurant near Las Puntas. We go down a driveway (cross seems to farms and farming) long tunnel to the coast and here we are in the sea. We walk briefly (just long enough to take pictures) on the new "rub" that connects Punta Grande machetes (we had seen on the news) and then we go to Restaurante La machetes to discover that ... has turned into an Italian restaurant (so to say )!!!! True to our philosophy of avoiding Italian food across the border (unless reliable recommendations), we avoid pasta, pizza and bruschetta ... un'insalatona and order!
The food does not seem totally reject (hard to go wrong salads, pizzas and bruschetta, while the other - seem to be too soft and pale), but the service is slow, even to bring the bill!

We just have to go over the same road that leads to the Parador, not without thinking that it is a very nice hotel, but in an unfortunate position.

14 - From El Hierro to Tenerife

Last day in El Hierro: This evening the ferry us back to Tenerife and the day after you return to Milan ... We welcome our Parador with a final swim in the pool, then loaded the bags into the car and leave again.

First stop at Valverde, in search of the Fabric of quesadillas and Adrian Gutierrez Hijas, which are said to be among the best on the island (http://tenerifejournal.blogspot.com/2010/05/103-quesadillas-mini-cheesecakes-from . html). Arriving at the port Valverde is a sign for the factory, but fortunately we reach it. The building looks like a normal house, you enter the front door welcomes us a guy who receives orders from a small door. If it were not we see him in the face, there seems to be back to Seville when we bought the cookies from cloistered nuns (all in silence, through the "wheel" in the wall).
The quesadillas are delicious ...!

We take the opportunity to make a turn in the center of Valverde and especially in the central square: white and very scenic, it would be a nice stage for concerts and plays.

Resume the target machine with machetes, we must think of sunbathing and swimming pools almost natural that we saw yesterday evening inspire us a lot.

The sun is high and hot, many people have already placed, but the ocean is more mischievous than expected: being moved, a lot of waves crashing over the barriers and create water jets that invade the pools and the nearest coast. The locals obviously more used, swim and dive, defying the waves ... We do take a game seemingly destined for children: sit on board the pool, in a strategic position, and let us bathe by the gargoyles of the waves. And just as we both burnt! But ... what fun!

Then the sun gets too hot and in any case it is almost time to leave. Let's take one last ice cream by the sea, El Golfo salute and then off to the port! We stopped at the supermarket to take two bananas and soft drinks for the ferry and then go sit in the aisles of embarkation.

As usual, Fred Olsen arrives late and having a single ramp loading and unloading at the end of the game with almost an hour late! What's more, the crossing is longer than expected: almost three hours instead of two!
We arrived at Los Cristianos exhausted and we still have a little way because we booked in Güimar, roughly halfway to the airport north.

This time we have a Hotel Rural (www.casonasantodomingo.com), practically a bed and breakfast housed in a typical Canarian house of the sixteenth century! The lady there is very kind to open with a smile despite the late hour and we also save the registration procedures, we are so exhausted, that allows us to postpone everything until after the shower and a sound sleep.
Unfortunately, the solution turns out to be the most unfortunate ... Apart from the historic building and the decor, the bed creaks with every movement semi smashed, the room is hot and a window does not open, the lady apologized and offer us a noisy fan that finally shut it down, in the yard there is an annoying little fountain that sings all the time .... Or are we now too sophistic, or the Canary Island farms have a low level ..

Let us however some sleep!

15 - Eastern Tenerife

At the end we still sleep, although the last full day in Tenerife starts with a certain weariness of the fund.

I get up for a quick shower and go downstairs alone for breakfast (included). The gentle Mari spoils me with coffee, milk, orange juice, toast, jams, yogurt, fruit and a plate of charcuterie. I can not of course to eat everything and then, with a little 'of chutzpah, I ask if I can bring something in the room by her husband who still has not woken up. Without any problems, give me a tray and dishes and her husband won a breakfast in the room!

Meanwhile the lady that greeted us yesterday, it gives me a good day and some advice for the day: the Pyramids of Guimar (I've read conflicting views), a trip to the beach from the heat (they are amazed at the hardness the phenomenon) and a dinner here for them, because they have a very good cook ... It will be a case of a party, but actually on a shelf are shown some prizes for the competition of the best tapas.

With the sunshine and a little 'tired less, even the outlines of the system seem better, even if we do not understand just why a bed so uncomfortable and squeaky ....
Among other things, the only pictures on the walls of the room are two representations of .... Sistine Chapel that has placed us in this room because there is a touch of Italy?

We go direct to the pyramids and feel the air that promises a hot day, even the sky is veiled by the cloak of humidity ... At the entrance, we estimate the price (€ 10 for adults) and hear the opinions so far (almost artificial pyramids reconstructed by modern man) ... And we decided to visit Candelaria, famous for the Basilica and the Virgin patron saint of the archipelago: August 15, we lost the official celebrations, but perhaps it was not a good day to visit with calm (the news they showed large crowds and long processions).

The town presents itself to us happy and joyful, with the market square, shopping streets and a march of women in the course (the sponsor is Reebok.) Unfortunately, there is parking only on top of a hill and is already bad for us when we come back, but so much so that we are moving.
The basilica is really great, compared with other views so far, and majestic. The interiors are kept simple and some fine paintings tell the legend of the statue.

Let's take a walk around the surrounding streets and found that the Spanish nationals are not prepared to have shade and now we are looking for freshness.
I guess the machine is already a furnace, but the movement turns the air.

We decide to go south and take the tedious TF82, the road that winds twisty and narrow in an arid landscape (it was not for the prickly pears) and monotonous (even at the Vineyard), passing meaningless agglomerations of the house, without a trace and apparently uninhabited.

Gave up and went to take the autopista the south, crossing a huge area of wind turbines and solar parks.

Just below the big wind is popular with surfers, who have a known destination of El Medano and crowded. We stop for some tapas from La Lata of Gofio (excellent fish and croquettes with goat cheese mojo) and an ice cream Picacho (good). And we concede a walk along the ocean, watching the exploits of windsurfing. The guide tells us that here is the longest beach on Tenerife's certainly part of the town is very crowded, while to the neighborhoods of new construction is almost deserted, but also very windy!

For the last bath canario, however, we return to Los Cristianos to Playa Las Vistas, which we liked very much for the size, white sand and the sea calm and warm. When we arrive it is too late and the sun less deadly, but do not give a bath (the water is not hot today, but clean and nice) and a few hours of sunshine.

For dinner we decided to go back the other time in the restaurant (called, imaginatively ... Restaurante Las Vistas) for pulpo Galician, grilled sardines and squid: Our favorite seafood dish!

And in the meantime, the promenade is full of tourists who walk and talk. We join ourselves, but we prefer to take off our shoes and take a romantic walk on the sand now cold ....

Adios Canarias: tomorrow will be back in Milan, but we've got some great seats and want to come back!

16 - Going back home, unfortunately...

Day of return, unfortunately. But the holiday as intense as this also leave us the sensation of being longer durations ...

The temperature is warm and the sun shines. In the square in front of our hotel there seems to be the market: perhaps bringing the suitcases in the car, take a look.

We have breakfast, some photos of the hotel (which is actually very nice and well kept) and a trip to the market, but then we must face facts: we have to leave.

Latest detour in El Port, a village near the sea Güimar to note once more how many new homes and apartments are being built to meet the demand of the tourists who apparently find it convenient to get an apartment here. It is also true that, in addition to new buildings, we saw a lot of traditional houses abandoned and decaying (simple cubic with 1-2 floors of various colors, some with stones, that make them look like forms of cheddar), but also new Construction projects in half and left unfinished, perhaps because of the financial crisis and real estate in recent years. And in the face of so many signs "if you sell" or "if alquila" last night we peeked listings for the area of Los Cristianos (specifying only the number of rooms and square meters of balconies, but not all) and nothing found under € 130k.

And then we are at the airport. Return the car after having noted the approximately 1900 kilometers without any problems and make the check-in.

On board the last treat for a superstitious woman who refuses to sit in row 13 (oddly present on these planes) and the hostess asking our neighbor (a young boy with dreadlocks) is willing to change jobs: general laughter but the lady is satisfied!

The flight departs with a half-hour delay that can not recover on their way. Having about 30 minutes before the next shipment, we rush to buy a sandwich from Subway (Güimar after breakfast, our only meal of the day) and a book for me (I miscalculated and already finished the single volume brought ).

But then we discover that the sky above Madrid is more clogged than we thought (but maybe it's the norm) and then slide the board and also the launch: another hour of delay that does not recover in flight.

We arrive at Linate Airport in the dark and a wonderful temperature, almost too cool but ideal for a good night's sleep.