Scotland. Not only "Nessie" and ghosts....

A trip full of stunning scenery and beautiful emotions. Years ago when I heard talk of this country, I thought bewitched castles and the Loch Ness ... Now in my mind there are many images from the intense colors that portray a wild Scotland and often unspoilt ...

 

Some practical suggestions

Before you begin the story of our journey, let me give some practical information that may be useful to those who intend to travel to this beautiful country.

Sleep - "Accommodation"
We have always stayed in Bed & Breakfast (B & B) to 3 or 4 star hotel with private bathroom (except in a case where it was in the corridor but still reserved for us). The difference with the B & B 2 star lies in the fact of having to share the bathroom with other guests. The prices that we found ranged from 23 to 38 pounds per person with breakfast. Not exactly cheap!
Towels are always provided and changed every day. Furthermore, we have always found hairdryer, shower gel and shampoo. Room is available with an electric kettle bags of coffee, tea and some biscuits packed.
We had only booked the first night from Italy, via email. For the other nights we have been entrusted to the Lonely Planet or catalogs of B & B (calling) or the Tourist Information Centers that are located in each city. They have a desk Accommodation where, against a fee of £ 3 and an advance of 10%, of the kind ladies or gentlemen are always find you in a room according to your needs. We need to inform the post (so you can ask for a room to another city, are all linked by computer), if you want a camera "ensuite" (with private bathroom) and the approximate budget. If you are placed in a B & B or Guesthouse you are asking if you can confirm immediately while the landlord is online. If it is ok, give you a sheet that will serve as a voucher to present upon arrival. It then pays 10% of the total course is deducted from the sum to be paid then to the owners.
Attention, in the summer, some places are overcrowded and we had many difficulties in finding a place in Orkney on the island of Skye and Edinburgh. We had even upset, making our journey to become anticlockwise to book a room in Skye for the following week. In fact, in Skye on weekends is virtually impossible to find a place if you have not booked well in advance. In Orkney, there are few housing is then best to book if you do not want to risk sleeping in the middle of the fields (it is highly advisable to book a place to sleep before booking the ship!). In Edinburgh there are various festivals in August and the rooms are taken by storm.
It is true that there are many B & B but many have written "No vacancy" which means that there is no place. I do not know how the situation at other times of year but in August there is the Full and touches often settle or increase its budget ...

Tourist Attractions
The Scottish are very well organized in this regard. There are brown road signs indicating the Visitor Center and the various attractions that occur along the road or at a location that you are about to cross. It is therefore very difficult to lose an attraction!
On the other museums, castles, etc.. cost a lot! There are a few tickets for cumulative visit 2 or 3 castles for example.

Roads
They are usually very beautiful but very narrow in some regions, as in the Highlands, Skye and the Orkneys, where there are almost exclusively single lane roads. You have to cross with other machines using the appropriate returns on the sides ( "passing places"). We must remember to stop on the left (remember that driving on the left) to go, even if a passing place is on our right. In this case the car will be arriving in the face of having to use this passing place. The Scottish are very warm in the car and when you cross these streets there is a friendly sign for thank you. On the sides and in the middle of the road there are signs posted nell'asfalto good to see the road at night.
Council to buy, even on arrival at the airport, a road atlas. We found good with the Big Road Atlas Britain. The smaller roads were all mentioned.

Parking
Along the sidewalks painted double stripes on the road mean: no parking. The white stripes painted in front of the gates mean step driveway, you will not find the sign as we have.

The climate
You will have already heard of all colors, however I am saying too. In August, the area of the Trossachs, Stirling and Edinburgh can be very mild if there is the sun, in the sense that it reaches 17/19 degrees and you can stay in t-shirt with a sweatshirt handy. In Orkney instead makes a cold dog, we went around wearing T-shirt, sweatshirt, fleece jacket and / k-way. It is essential to dress in layers so when there is a ray of sun you can remove the jacket. In the evening we also had a lot of wind and sciarpina or at least a scarf would be appreciated! The weather, needless to say, is very variable and in the morning when you wake up with the rain we must not despair, often comes the sun ... Sometimes, however, does not arrive ... At 13 days we had spent a good half of beautiful days, with sky and sun, and then did not go too badly.

Photographs
For those who use the traditional camera, the lead roller 400 or Ultra Asa that fit in all weather conditions. With digital, it is easier because every photo, you can set the sensitivity according to the most suitable conditions. With the right settings you have beautiful pictures because Scotland offers spectacular natural colors!

Language
I expected not to understand anything for two weeks but I was pleasantly surprised. It is not true that the Scottish speak a language incomprehensible, indeed. I found that very well articulated words and we have never had difficulty communicating. Obviously you need a good knowledge of English.

Souvenir
They are expensive!

Money
In 2005, £ 1 = € 0.69
We have traveled peacefully with only ATM and credit cards. Distributors can be found even if in some desert areas it is better to have them counted. In B & B is often paid in cash.

Cars
You can rent at the airport in Edinburgh for example. There are major car rental companies: Avis, Hertz, etc ... Before you leave you must verify the well of the car and possibly indicate the damage has not reported on the form otherwise you will be charged on return.

Security
Optimal. By car, you can also leave in backpacks and camera away, there is no risk to have it open, except of course in big cities where it takes a little 'more than suspicion. In the rest of the country we found that all left everything in the car!

Public toilets
They are everywhere, clean and equipped, even in the countryside and in places unimaginable. Are almost always free. For me, then pregnant with the seventh month, it had its importance!

Food
It is very good fish. Usually, the contour consists of the same things: carrots, broccoli and boiled potatoes, or potato chips. The portions are plentiful. There is always a menu of the day or the "Specials" with the soup of the day, a second and some sweets. The waiter we will list.
In pubs and inns in ( "Inn") where you sit there and place orders at the bar.

Tipping
The usual amount of "Tips" is 10% of the total.

Arrival in Stirling

We booked a flight via the web with a Scottish low cost airline, the Flyglobespan, which is the Nice-Edinburgh convenient for us since we were on the French Riviera in recent days. Cost € 250 per Person A / R.
We also rented a car with Hertz, a Ford Focus (€ 386 for 13 days) that we retrieve our arrival at the airport after an exhausting queue.
The weather is very cloudy, freddino ago, Drizzle and there is wind. Well! What we expected? The sun and the palms of Nice ??!...
Our first stop is Stirling, a town west of Edinburgh, will visit the capital at the end of our stay. We booked via email a B & B, among others must also inform the lady of the house that we come in late ...
Traveling can get a preview of the beautiful Scottish countryside, despite the bad weather: grass green, or yellow, full of cows, sheep or horses ... And the sky is a little 'clearing up.
We arrive at Stirling after about half an hour and is almost immediately LINDEN GUESTHOUSE *** (Fay McGuinness, 22 Linden Avenue, www.lindenguesthouse.co.uk, 25 pounds / person). The hostess greets us warmly and accompanies us in our room, very nice and treated. We have a bathroom, brand new and lindissima.
We go out for dinner just because it is already late, and in Scotland, dinner soon. Meanwhile the sun is out and there is a very special light. Are 21 and not yet dark, you see that we are much further north! The town seems nice but there is no one around! Dinner at an Indian restaurant, not very typical as before we had dinner but want to.

STIRLING, TROSSACHS

In the morning we go immediately to the Tourist Information Center (TIC) to book B & B on the island of Skye for the following days. Unfortunately, Skye is not a single seat because captain during the week-end! No one was expecting, and we caught a little 'surprised. During the day we decide then to reverse our course, making a counterclockwise tour of Scotland. So we can book the B & B in Skye one week in advance. We have to return tomorrow morning to fix this issue.
We visit the castle (£ 8 per person). It is very beautiful to look at from outside, perched on a hill, but inside I'm not saying anything of that. Today the weather is quite sunny and we enjoy a beautiful view of the Wallace Monument, a symbol of Stirling. Sir William Fallaci, a great Scottish warrior, was played by Mel Gibson in Braveheart to put so much! By car, go up the monument planning to climb on top for the view, but only to arrive at the foot of a path is uphill, which does not seem very short. We begin to climb the plan but since I am 7 months pregnant I do not feel to continue and go back. Sin ...
Return the car and we go in the region of the Trossachs to the west of Stirling. There are beautiful landscapes, the sky is blue sprinkled with white clouds that make the scenario very photogenic. Among other things, the light of the sun highlights all the colors of the season.
For lunch we stop at Callander in a coffee house. We continue our tour to the lakes Loch Loch Achray and Katherine, where we stop to take a pleasant stroll on its banks. We end our trip to Loch Lomond, the largest lake in Scotland, a resort very popular.
Back to Stirling to 18'30 and one hour after we leave again to go to dinner. This evening we try the Hannibal's Restaurant, locally inspired the famous film starring Anthony Hopkins. The dishes have names very special!

ST. ANDREWS, DUNOTTAR CASTLE, STONEHAVEN

Today we leave Stirling, and we salute Fay take a photo together. I forgot to say that the breakfast was fabulous! You could choose between Scottish breakfast (with eggs, tomatoes, beans, sausage, toast) or continental (with hot croissants, toast, orange marmalade, muffins ...). Really a good address.
Before leaving the city back to the TIC to book B & B at the island of Orkney and Skye. For the first destination is a place Stenness in a B & B for £ 28 per person. As seems to be the only place available we take. While I am considering lodging, Paul is connected via the Internet to book passage on the Ferry (£ 147 for the car and two passengers, not at all cheap!). There's a lot at the tail and we are here for a while ', so kindly ask me used to go to another ICT to book B & B in Skye!
While we are traveling alone book by phone, the B & B in Inverness, whose address was given to me by a girl over the Internet. Fortunately, there is room for the night after.
From Stirling take the coastal road that goes north-east. There are beautiful landscapes and picturesque villages. We stop in St Andrews, a town famous for hosting the first golf course of history and a cathedral in ruins very fascinating. When the long-awaited "Scottish shower" at lunchtime we seek refuge in a bar for eating. Fortunately the rain stopped after an hour and we can continue our trip. We go straight into the town's TIC to book B & B in Skye. After a few phone calls, the girl finds a place for £ 30 per person. It is beyond our initial budget, but we do not have many alternatives. Tells us that everything is full! We can not even see a picture this time, hopefully for good.
We continue our journey towards Stonehaven. On the streets do some phone calls to B & B and Guesthouse for the night, finding the numbers in a catalog that I have to ICT. Find a place in GH 4 stars for £ 27 per person. There is no picture but since it is a 4 star I mistrust.
Shortly before Stonehaven, we stop at the majestic ruins of Castle Dunottar (4 pounds) on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea and surrounded by green cliffs! It is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. We are also fortunate in the long run because there is a large sun 17'30 and there's a soft light that makes colors more intense. On this site was shot Hamlet with Mel Gibson (always him!). We have unfortunately little time to visit the ruins so close to 18 but they're almost alone and we can enjoy the ride in peace, among green meadows and ruins with loopholes that frame the surrounding landscape. Shot an impressive number of photos! This place really deserves a break! After the closure of the castle, take a walk on a trail overlooking the cliffs and a beach of black gravel on the right of the castle. It's all very wild and fascinating.
We go away and come reluctantly to the pretty town of Stonehaven, situated among the hills in a wide bay. We find our GH: ARDUTHIE GUESTHOUSE **** (Martin and Cathy Gardner, Ann Street, Stonehaven, www.arduthieguesthouse.com, 27 pounds / person). It is beautiful! E 'a Victorian house on three floors with a beautiful flower garden. We accept the landlord, friendly, and now accompanies us in our room, the Balmoral, the top floor, under the roof. Many stairs for me but it is really nice, the bed has a canopy on a small table and a bottle of whiskey and a fruit basket to welcome us! Bathrooms are also in a bathrobe and everything necessary for the toilet. This is the best place where we were.
For dinner we go to the port of Stonehaven. There is low tide and all boats are resting on the sand, in the balance. Dinner at the Ship Inn, a pub crowded and smoky. I eat fish and vegetables and a boiled sweet absolutely shocking: Mars Delight, a huge bowl of ice cream with bits of Mars! No comment ...

ELGIN, FORT GEORGE, LOCH NESS, INVERNESS

Today is overcast. Last night we were very fortunate to visit the Castle Dunottar.
After a hearty Scottish breakfast (today I have launched too) with a sausage, potato scones, baked tomatoes, bacon, toast + croissant, yogurt and cereal ... (I know, we suck! this fact to digest breakfast we use three hours and decide which is the last time I take the Scottish breakfast!) leaving for Elgin, follow the motorway and then cutting to the inside. Elgin is known for its Cathedral, now in ruins, set on fire nel1390. It 'really amazing and majestic. Where once there was the floor of the cathedral is now a soft turf which contrasts with the stone of the building. I recommend you climb to the top of the tower from where you have a beautiful view on the site and its surroundings. Unfortunately today the weather is bruttina but it is worth.
We continue the journey up to Fort George on the east coast, just before Inverness. Since we have no great desire to visit (it's huge and costs £ 6 a head) we see from the outside and continue up to Inverness.
We stop in the city but take the A82 towards Fort William, to travel the road that runs alongside the famous Loch Ness.
In mid-lake more or less there are the ruins dell'Urquart Castle, we visit (£ 6), although the Dunottar Castle was much more impressive, because here the cost is excessive in our view, but we are on Loch Ness, the lake perhaps the world famous ... Fortunately there is now a beautiful sun and walk calmly among the ruins and green lawns overlooking the lake. No sign of Nessie! Instead we see many boats of tourists and a couple (which I have seen in a service on Discovery Channel) that scours the lake in search of the monster! We decide not to go to the Visitor Center dedicated exclusively to Nessie and we return to Inverness, which seems a nice town.
Before making a trip to town we go to our B & B, which is a little 'out at Westhill (which strangely is not in the East and West of Inverness! Fact we have put in an hour to find it on a map!) BONNIE VIEW (Marjory O'Connor, Towerbrae (North), Westhill, Inverness, Tel: (01463) 792468, 23 pounds / person).
E 'a newly-built house, very simple, which is located on a hill overlooking a beautiful landscape. Sound the bell and welcomes us very warmly Marjory, a woman about 60 years very happy and that seems very nice. It seems happy to see us and when my husband with the bags, she does: "Paoloooo!" With a big smile (I had said our names the day before by phone). It seems a little 'crazy at first glance but it is sweet! Accompanies us in our room, which is located in the basement, we have to close down some stairs covered in a thick carpet. The room is very nice although kitsh! The bathroom is very particular, is virtually divided into two: a microscopic room with toilet and sink and then beside, a sort of niche in the wall with the shower! But we have to spend only one night, will do so. When we climb up in the living room offers tea and biscuits (the famous butter shortbread), and we gossip. It 'really a sweet personcina makes us any questions about us, on our journey, we explained that B & B for 20 years, and makes us see the different maps on display in the living room with pins that show, year after year, the countries of origin of its guests. We thus discover that people have come from Malaysia, India ... After a while 'we leave it must prepare a barbecue in his garden for a festicciola which organized with friends. Says we must be mad to hold a barbecue in Scotland and thrusts the jacket! Us to die with laughter!
For dinner we go to Inverness, there is still a good light and take a walk outside the castle, which overlooks the city and river. Freddino ago! Although known to the fearless Scottish go around in short sleeves even when there are 10 degrees! My husband claims that they do not because I do not feel the cold but because it is more cool ...
Dinner to Dickens, which offers a menu infinity and is run by Chinese. The food is not great. There was my husband years ago but apparently the management has changed in the meantime. We end the evening in a pub, the Arlequin bar, where we can observe the habits of young Scottish: drain liters of beer and whiskey the same as if it were fruit juice! Without distinction between males and females. Congratulations to the resistance!

ORKNEYS

By Marjory Breakfast is abundant and worth the stop alone at his home ... After a huge bowl of yogurt and Muesli, brings us the toast, thick and soft, heated in a toaster and accompanied with fresh butter and Marmelade (orange marmalade) divine! Paul also takes bacon, eggs and sausage! The liver is a ...
We start to 9'20 after the greetings, a few words on the Guest Book and a photo with Marjory.
Today we have reached the Orkneys (Orkney Islands), when one knows Marjory was so surprised, he says that the only Scottish going to do those parts as a way to find some relatives.
We follow the coastal road that goes north. The landscape is truly spectacular, the road passes over the cliffs covered in yellow and green lawns overlooking the sea. There is also a sun shining! Unfortunately there is no possibility to stop the car and taking pictures or filming, also are doing work on the road. Sin.
As the ferry to the Orkneys to the 13'45 and we must be one hour before boarding, we do not take a drive along the coastal road up north to John O 'Groats and we cut to the inside up to Thurso. Here the landscape changes dramatically: no more hills or cliffs, but the pot total! Along a field full of giant wind turbines. Arrive in Thurso in 11'40, so we decide to try to reach John O 'Groats on the northern coast road to admire the famous cliffs. Unfortunately, the distances are not so small and at some point we must turn back to avoid losing the ferry. Definitely it is not fate that we see that place!
The ferry trip is very enjoyable despite the cold and wind. At the port there were 15 degrees, those who find the Orkneys? Fortunately there is still sunshine. The closer to the cliffs of the island of Hoy is spectacular! The cliffs are covered with vegetation of a green so intense that reminds me of the reefs of Hawaii (seen only in the film, unfortunately)! The Old Man of Hoy, a huge rock appears faraglione welcome in these islands.
When we arrive at the port of Stromness, a seal sighted in the water! The town is very pretty and seems to land on another world. I am 15 now and we head towards Stenness where you will find our B & B FARMHOUSE B & B (Mr & Mrs Swann, Ramsquoy, Stenness, Stromness, Orkney, info@ramsquoy.com, 28 pounds / person). The house, built recently, is located atop a green hill overlooking a magnificent panorama of the sea and the surrounding lawns. From our room, through a large window, enjoy the same view. Here too the bathroom is similar to that of B & B in Inverness, a tiny room with toilet and sink in the room and a shower. For £ 28 I expected a little 'more but the room is nice and bright.
Since there is a beautiful sun and we do not know how long we put ourselves immediately in the car to go to see the famous prehistoric sites that populate this area: Standing Stones (4 menhir erected in 2500 BC), Ring of Broadgate (giant circle of 36 menhir erected 4500 years ago), Skara Brae (small prehistoric village, built 5000 years ago, and incredibly well kept, located on either side of a beautiful sandy bay - £ 6 per person). Are fantastic and a visit is a must. We avoid the buses of tourists, or expect to go all the way to enjoy the peace of these places mystics. Sunlight helps to give the sites an extra beauty.
Turning into a piece on the road (the roads here are very narrow and it's up in the cross passing places as explained at the beginning) that makes the rounds of the North Mainland. The landscapes are breathtaking: endless expanses of yellow or green lawns, thousands of sheep, cows that create black spots on the dark green fields and grazing quietly, stone houses here and there, but not a tree ... It 's flat inland, for that is that there is much wind. It seems to be on another planet, is really fantastic! I read conflicting opinions on Orkney, but this first round we very much excited, perhaps because of the wonderful time that enhances the colors of nature. Furthermore there is no one around, crossed the few machines, so it seems that these places belong to us ...
19'30 to take the road to Stromness to find a place to dine. Let's go to the Stromness Hotel (www.stromnesshotel.com), historical building facing the harbor. I expected to find many people but the place is almost empty. It seems to go back in time with these wooden furniture begins 900 and the carpet often. Eat well: fish, vegetables and dessert.
Let us then a trip to Stromness, there is nobody on the street and makes a cool dog! Let's go back to our B & B.

ORKNEYS

Today the weather is bad! We have done well in our prehistoric past! The landlord says that he thinks will improve. We do breakfast in the dining room of the house, located in a veranda with views over the bay and the hills.
We go to Kirkwall, the largest town of the Orkneys. Before visiting any thing, let's go to the TIC to book a room for the night after, on the north of Highlands. Even on this occasion is not simply the employee makes a series of telephone calls without finding the place! Fortunately the end is a room in an inn at Bettyhill to £ 30 per person. Costs are always higher than our initial budget!
I take this opportunity to ask for a B & B in Edinburgh and also the boy when he asks us to, my answer to the "August 14-16 ', asks me:" this year? "With a smile. Ok, I understand that it will be hard! Makes a tremendous number of calls and are also free places but at allucinanti or away from the city. And waive the end we decide we're going to Travel Lodge, 4 km from the city, where we saw over the internet that there are still rooms available at £ 75 in 2 without breakfast. It will not be very typical but we do not have other choices.
Except that I do not want to resign to spend three nights in a hotel outside the city anonymously, so I take the Lonely Planet and begin to make phone calls with my phone (thank goodness I had activated a special where for every phone call in Europe I is the same as a call to Italy + 1 Euro one-off). I put in a nice B & B but we see on a map that we will have problems with parking because it is too central. However, the third call, we find our Guest House for £ 38 per person (show details below)! The landlord asked me my credit card number to charge the first night. First time we are asking. Speriamo in bene! Satisfied with myself for passing efficiency in the ICT, are now ready to continue our trip tourism. It also released a mini ray of sunshine!
We enter in St Magnus Cathedral, a majestic church in red sandstone and yellow stone, and we are four steps in the pedestrian street of Kirkwall. The town is really small and there is not much to do and see so I dedicate a little 'shopping and buying a pile of red cardigan with white sheep for my daughter who will be born in a few months!
After a quick lunch based on Baked Potatoes and sweet in a bar, we go to visit the Highland Park Distillery, the whiskey distillery in the northernmost in the world, which is also one of the last which is fermented barley on his own. The tour is very interesting for those who have never seen how the Whiskey and ultimately make us sit in a room to view a video sample and two qualities of Whiskey (12 and 18 years of age), who unfortunately have to decline for obvious reasons!
We continue our tour towards the east as a way to see the Churchill Barriers, bridges of large masses of concrete built between Mainland and several smaller islands (Lamb Holm, Glimpse Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay), during the Second World War by Italian prisoners, for volere Churchill who wanted to step up defenses around the naval base of Scapa Flow after a German submarine had infiltrated it. The walkways are lined by old wrecks of ships and protection are worth the drive along the road, which offers beautiful scenery and is flanked by a few sandy beaches.
Let's make a quick jump to the Italian Chapel built by Italian prisoners with two huts and a prefab concrete facade absolutely realistic so that if you do not do the lap and that it sees only the face seems a real church! The interior is all painted and decorated.
The last stop of our day is The Gloup an arc overlapping a rocky cave marina where they live many sea birds. Located at the eastern tip of East Mailand, near Mull Head. It's worth a tour and let us if you have the time, even a walk along the cliff.
This evening we return to Stromness for dinner, it's the only "civilized" near Stenness, where there is nothing! At Bistro 76, indicated by the LP, so there is no place we go to the Royal Hotel, a really pleasant and intimate that it was not mentioned in the guide, with good reason, because we eat really well.

ORKNEYS AND BETTYHILL, NORTHERN HIGHLANDS

Today we wake up with a thick fog. Does not promise anything good even if the landlord, like yesterday, trying to reassure us, saying that sometimes improves ...
We try to visit the tomb of Maeshowe that date 5000 years ago, but the tours are full and not accepting additional visitors. Indeed it is a tomb mound and may enter only a few people at a time. We are very disappointed because it seemed interesting. It is therefore advisable to book well in advance (Tel 01856 761606 - 4 pounds).
So let's change the destination and to the cliffs of Yesnaby west of Mainland. The fog is dissolving fortunately. Put our hiking shoes because there is much mud and begin the walk on a grassy lawn as carpet ... The reefs are fantastic and there is no one around! After mezz'oretta walk we arrive at Yesnaby Castle, an impressive tall rock in the sea but close to the cliff. Large waves break against the cliffs and imagine how it should be in the winter when the sea is very rough. There are colonies of sea birds that fly around and we can see some small gulls nests hidden in the rock.
Back to the car while some pairs of arriving tourists.
Kirkwall reach back to go the Internet Point to download the digital photos on a CD (2 pounds) and surf the internet to see places that we have booked for the nights later. The Bettyhill Hotel and Guest House in Edinburgh seem very nice.
Back to Stromness, where we make a trip to Stromness Museum and a couple of purchases in the main street, before embarking on the ferry to 16'15 Thurso.
The sea is very rough this time and we are inside. There abbiocchiamo comfortable armchairs on until we arrive at 18'15. We immediately put on the road to reach Bettyhill before the night. The road is beautiful. After a while 'is the hotel: THE BETTYHILL HOTEL (Bettyhill, Sutherland, http://www.bettyhill.info, 30 pounds / person). Located in a magnificent position, on top of a hill overlooking the vast green lawns and a beautiful sandy beach, the Torrisdale Bay. Although the hall is a little 'retro kitsh, our room was very nice and wide and especially enjoys the spectacular view over the beach! What luck! And to think that was the last room left! We have also a real bed ... I do this because in the B & B beds are almost always a square and a half! Since it is already late, we just to dine in the dining room on the ground floor which has beautiful stained glass windows from which can enjoy the view. The sky is also opening up the horizon and slowly witnessing one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen! It lasts almost two hours and the sky was tinged with orange, red and pink. It is wonderful! Dinner is delicious, I still remember the Cheese Cake with hot chocolate sauce! Really a good address.

NORTHERN E WESTERN HIGHLANDS. ARRIVAL AT SKYE

Unfortunately the weather is bad again. Today we have a long way to go to the island of Skye and are starting to 9'30. We continue on the coastal road of the Northern Highlands, is beautiful and very green. The road is also a single carriageway with a number of passing places. Fortunately, crossed a few machines. Durness before a stop is a must to admire the beautiful beach of Sangobeg. Unfortunately today there is no sun, but I imagine that the colors may have with the nice weather. Remember a long beach of the Seychelles! The water is transparent, the pink sand and is surrounded by pink granite rocks.
The landscape of Northern and Western Highlands is something spectacular, I had heard about but have yet another thing: green meadows, cliffs, mountains, fjords, lakes, streams, thousands of sheep, cows, small villages of white houses immersed in nature ... We have done well to reverse our tour at the end, because this part of Scotland is much more fascinating and wild east coast.
The ideal thing would be to take the streets to enjoy the full scenery, unfortunately we do not have much time. To know that we planned a day at most.
Lunch in a pub in Ullapool, the Ferry Inn and continue without too linger.
However, we make a detour from the A896 to follow the Applecross coast road from where we can see the island of Raasay, Skye before. The road then passes a package rather high where you have a spectacular view. Unfortunately the weather is bad but is appealing the same. The descent from the package is equally impressive and passes in the middle of a deep and steep gorge. We stop a moment and comes down from the machine to make a picture. Big mistake! Are literally filled with hundreds of midge, the infamous midges of which I had heard about but which I did not believe much. Slaughtering me, is almost like being points lower mosquitoes! Go back in the car in a moment and share it with the windows open to bring them out, because I have brought them all back, are attached to my clothes, my hair is a nightmare ... We released only after covering several km!
Since we are still more than 20 miles from Broadford, the small town of Skye where we booked the B & B, accelerated. Take the Skye Bridge is now free and we get to 20 go to Broadford. We accept the owner of our B & B: Mrs Isabel MacLeod (Hillview, Blackpark, Broadford, mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/hillviewblackpark, 30 pounds / person). Our room was very comfortable and welcoming. As usual, not even time to relax five minutes and we're already going out for dinner. On the streets I had booked by phone a restaurant mentioned in the LP: the Creelers (www.Skye-seafood-restaurant.co.uk). The restaurant is very small and colorful and offers a menu with Provencal influences. We eat very well. Among the desserts, try the Sticky Toffee Pudding.

ISOLA DI SKYE

Oggi facciamo colazione alle 9, cioè quasi un’ora dopo della solita ora, ci concediamo questo lusso visto che la padrona di casa non sembra imporci orari particolari.
In seguito partiamo per un giro dell’isola, direzione nord. Ci fermiamo un momento a Portree, la cittadina principale dell’isola, con un grazioso porticciolo dove si affacciano case coloratissime.
Proseguiamo per la penisola di Trotternish dove ci sono belle montagne e un pinnacolo roccioso: l’Old Man of Storr. Vicino a Tote, c’è un piccolo parcheggio da dove parte un sentiero verso destra con una vista stupenda e scogliere verdissime a picco sul mare.
Pochi km più avanti si trova la famosa Kilt Waterfall che è molto facile da osservare da una piazzola con una ringhiera vicino al parcheggio. Il suo nome è dovuto alla forma particolare della scogliera che ricorda le pieghe di un kilt!
In seguito, dopo aver attraversato la graziosa Staffin, visitiamo il piccolo museo all’aperto Skye Museum of Island Life dove, attraverso alcuni cottage ricostruiti possiamo avere un’idea della vita nei crofting al 18° e 19° secolo.
Arriviamo a Uig, porticciolo situato in una baia incantevole, verso le 15. Purtroppo è troppo tardi per pranzare nell’unico ristorante del porto e così ripieghiamo su un bar dove mangiamo alcuni muffins e scone con burro e marmellata!
A Dunvegan non ci fermiamo a visitare il castello ma proseguiamo più avanti lungo la stradina fino ad arrivare ad un bel punto di vista sul castello, la campagna e il Loch Dunvegan. Un bel raggio di sole fa sembrare l’erba verde fosforescente.
Facciamo poi una bella deviazione sulla penisola di Duinish fino a Waterstein, da dove inizia una passeggiata in discesa fino al Faro di Neist (che non si vede dall’alto). Il paesaggio è spettacolare! Scogliere verdissime e ripide a picco sul mare. Nel faro, che non si può visitare, sembra che si possa dormire. Non so come facciano gli ospiti a raggiungere questo posto con i bagagli! In barca? In elicottero?... La risalita è tosta, ci sono centinaia di scale nella scogliera ma se ce l’ho fatta io al settimo mese di gravidanza penso che chiunque possa farcela, con calma. Lungo il sentiero, mentre stiamo camminando, avvistiamo anche due Basking Sharks (detti squali elefante) nella baia sottostante! All’inizio non capiamo bene di che cosa si tratta, sembrano tre delfini ma poi capiamo che si tratta di un animale unico, enorme!
Sulla strada del ritorno ci fermiamo a Colbost perché all’andata avevamo visto un ristorante che sembrava molto carino anche se molto costoso: The Three Chimneys, ricavato in un delizioso cottage bianco sperduto in mezzo alla campagna (ma con un elicottero parcheggiato davanti!). Purtroppo non hanno un tavolo libero! Peccato. In seguito, vedrò un servizio sulla BBC che parlava di Slow Food e nominava proprio questo ristorante! Così torniamo a Portree dove ceniamo al Portree House Hotel. Molto buono.

EILEAN DONAN CASTLE AND ELGOL

Today, as he announced the BBC, the deluge! Andiamo all'Eilean Donan Castle, the Highlander for instance. It is situated on land again as we cross the Skye Bridge. I expected to find in a much more isolated, is located close to the road on a lake, connected by an old bridge. We visit the interior to be repaired by pouring rain. When we go out rain suddenly stops, and the opportunity to take a couple of photos of the castle, very photogenic. To get a better view go up until Carr Brae Viewpoint, indicated on a guide, which is located on a side street right before the village of Dornie. There is a beautiful view from the castle, the lake and the hills. There is none, it seems that we are only aware of this place. Unfortunately resumes to rain so we go to eat in the pubs of Dornie Hotel. Will then continue on a path which leads up to Plockton, a nice town with a marina, white houses overlooking the bay and many flowers. Is a pleasant stroll. Sin rain go away ... When the sun comes out, obviously, so we decide to go back to Skye and to travel the road to Elgol. E 'bellissima, we are at the foot of the mountains while we travel and Cullin form a beautiful rainbow. Back to Broadford to 18'30 and get some money to the cash machine running the town. This evening dinner at the Claymore Restaurant, on the main road, where we eat very well. There's lots of people and wait a while 'for a table. A beer at the counter of the bar helps to deceive the wait.

BACK ON THE LAND AND ARRIVAL EDINBURGH

Today we wake up with sunshine and a blue sky than they saw for days. After breakfast we leave for Armatale, from where the ferry (£ 24.15) to Mallaig to 10'25.
The road from Mallaig to the Trossachs is fantastic. For a long time 'along the rail and to a certain point you can see the viaduct made famous by the Harry Potter films! The landscapes are green and even if there is more traffic than the Northern Highlands is very charming so. The road that leads from Tyndrum to Fort William through Glen Nevis is beautiful and is ideal for those who want to do hiking or just walking. Lunch at the Bridge of Orchy and continue on the A82 along Loch Lomond to Glasgow that we are forced to cross on a piece before you get the M8 to Edinburgh.
As soon we make a small detour to Roslyn Chapel to 7 miles south of Edinburgh. I, fresh reading of the Da Vinci Code, I was very curious to see her live. Unfortunately, the heavy scaffolding concealing almost completely the chapel, in fact, are in progress of the work of consolidation that will last a few years. Missing only one quarter of an hour to close so we are free to enter. The interior holds the visit, the chapel is full of stone ornaments and symbols of the Templars, and who is somewhat 'documented or has read the Da Vinci Code is very interesting and fascinating to try to find the different symbols and understand the their meaning. Unfortunately we do not have the time and we are satisfied to look pretty fast.
We arrive at our guesthouse at 17'30: FAIRHOLME GUEST HOUSE (13 Moston Tce, www.fairholme.co.uk, 38 pounds / person). E 'a gracious Victorian villa which is located in the suburb of Newington, south of the city. The neighborhood, residential, it is very nice and full of Victorian houses with small gardens in bloom. The owner welcomes us very kindly and carrying my suitcase up the stairs. In our room, and comfortable with the high ceiling, there is only a sink but the bathroom is located beside the corridor and is reserved for us, as I had mentioned the lord when I heard the phone. 18'30 to leave by car to the center of Edinburgh, and parked in St Andrews Square. Dinner at The Guildford Arms, West Register Street, a beautiful and lively pub, very busy. Since there is not a table free for dinner, ask us to sit at the bar to wait. Time to drink a beer and call us, there is a table upstairs on a mezzanine with a view of the pubs and on stage from where it later will play a jazz group with six nice old! This adheres to the local Fringe Festival, which is one of the most popular of Edinburgh is held in August and lasts three weeks and a half. There are shows every day: drama, street comedians, jugglers, etc ... It 'very funny turn by foot to Edinburgh and stop at each spettacolino that is in front, there is a very lively and cheerful! The street spettacolini take place mainly along the Royal Mile.

EDINBURGH

We go immediately to the Military Tattoo (Tatto Office, 32 Market Street, www.edintattoo.co.uk) to see if seats are still available for this spectacular event which takes place also during the first three weeks of August. We start with the tail 10 along the sidewalk, there's already a lot 'of people. Arrived in front of the door, ask the guy who manages the flow of people if there is any chance to have two tickets and to our great surprise us that we should do this! There are still 30 tickets for sale and we have about 20 people ahead of us! In fact we can buy two tickets, although at a price salty, £ 33 a head, but we have the best seats, right in front of the Castle.
Satisfied, we reach on foot the Royal Mile where we walk watching the street artists often perform in sketch comedy. What a contrast with Scotland visited so far. The Highlands, Orkney, where silence reigned and where he met a living soul fatigue are far from the lively Edinburgh, full of tourists, noise, music!
Walk from the Royal Mile with North Bridge to the Castle, where, however, not too much to enter the queue, and then descend to Holyrood, the official residence of the royal family in Scotland.
At lunchtime the rain inspires us to take refuge in a pub, but soon the sun returns and we continue our walk visiting the area south of the Castle: Grassmarket, Chambers Street ...). We end the day with a tour of the West Princes Street Gardens, I am pretty tired and weighs belly!
The same evening we witness the Military Tattoo, after a long, slow and claustrophobic "procession" in the Royal Mile in the midst of hundreds of tourists to get to the gates of the castle. The show is very beautiful and exciting, we have also the best place to admire the play of light on the castle. Space is tight and not very comfortable but fortunately no rain and not cold.

EDINBURGH

As the day is a little 'gray decide to visit the Castle. While we are in the queue, a person did note my belly and to my surprise, it makes us all jump the queue! I appreciate very much! The ticket fee is expensive: £ 9.80 a head! The visit of the castle does not make me mad.
For lunch we return Grassmarket where to eat in a pub in the historic White Hart Inn, which was frequented by Robert Burns, a poet of the 700th After lunch we return to enjoy the atmosphere pazzerella of the Royal Mile. We receive flyers to advertise events continuously, some boys are decidedly unusual ways to get noticed, like to walk barefoot with only a towel around the life, or lie down on the floor!
Tonight for dinner we do a trip outside Edinburgh before arriving at South Queensferry, near the Forth Bridge, an old railway bridge over 100 years, red steel, very impressive. Dinner at The Inn Hawes, another local historian with an intimate, with a view of the illuminated bridge.
For dessert I give you one last Apple Crumble, delicious ...