Going to Samarkand 2005 - Part 3 and 7

After visiting all over Europe in long and wide, last winter we join a group to go to Libya, we were very happy and delighted in this country with its deserts, salt lakes, towns and villages, we already visited Morocco in Africa, but the Libyans with their kindness and hospitality we have conquered.
This preamble to explain our thirst for adventure beyond the borders of Europe, in countries as yet untouched by mass tourism.
Through the Internet I started looking for other campers on a trip to these countries unknown, among the first I found a group that went to Iran in the spring, after the first contacts we have ruled it was too close to the previous trip to Libya and plus it was very expensive as an agency-organized by the newspaper industry camper, then through the Caravan Club Trajan in Benevento I heard of a group that last year after visiting Iran, would like to extend the trip to Samarkand in Uxbekistan, contacted the group leader, I announced the itinerary of the maximum cost to the organization, including visas, guides for various countries, the parking lots at the various hotels in electrical connection and supply of electricity ( Iran and Turkmenistan Uxbekistan), estimated at € 1850.00 per crew, he decides to meet in Porto Recanati by the campsite Bellamare June 2, meanwhile sending a confirmation with 50% of the total.
MEETING: camping Bellamare is very nice and welcoming, we arrived the previous day, the crew of Aosta came before us and make friends right away. On departure a welcome surprise, a stay at the camp has been offered by the crew of Osimo.
CREWS: We are 12 campers from 9 different regions, the average age is 64 years old, the oldest crew is already known: both have 76 years, Piedmont has two crews who were with us in Libya, the last crew was added although over a predetermined number (10 +1), as are doctors, very useful for the group.
Logistical problem: The group leader lists the various problems: logistics, border, water supplies and fuel.
DOCUMENTS: lists the various documents required to obtain visas: passports, passport-size photo 8 (women will do 3 pictures with the headscarf) compilation of various forms and a photocopy of the vehicle registration with the full list accessories (radio-stereo-CB-PC), brand and number of tire sizes, number of the engine. Everything is quite complicated because not all embassies in Italy: for Iran to Rome for the Turmenistan for Uxbekistan in Paris and Vienna.
Carnets de passage en DUANNE: Each crew will have to request a bank guarantee for the double or triple the market value at the age of the second half and through the ACI be releasing the document that will serve to pass the Iranian border, my half has been evaluated in an amicable manner, € 10.000,00, half the figure has doubled since 6 years, the acute and I paid € 180.00 to the bank (Friuladria) € 60.00 to € 359.01 for spending longer fixes the guarantee of one year (interest all1.80%), presenting the documents to the return duly signed by the various customs incoming and outgoing will be returned to me the months not used.
LICENSE: In these countries, an international driving license is required, for having an agency I paid € 50.00.
SPARE PARTS: The group leader advises us to equip various parts, filters, various belts, oil filling, as well as wheel-mounted spare, inner tubes and a gas can in addition, I have also in possession of a motor ZIP revision (€ 120.00)
MEDICINES: The two doctors are sending us a list of medications that we can be helpful, they endeavor to procure drugs for extreme cases that will be available to all.
CLOTHING: Women in addition to foul in the lead, must wear long dresses with long sleeves and wide, to cover the forms, Tina, my wife has procured two Moroccan clothes at a shop in Udine, men can not wear shorts courts, the head group advised to wear long-sleeved shirts, I saw that on TV instead wear shirts and polo shirts with short sleeves. All this only for Iran, the other two countries, we dress as we want.
Maps and guides: through the internet I found the Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com)
Guide to Iran € 23.50
Guide to 'Central Asia to € 28.00
and maps of Freytag & Berndt (www.freytagberndt.com)
- Central Asia Scale 1:1 750 000 to € 9.80
- Iran and neighboring countries scale 1:2 000 000 to € 9.80
bought everything in a library of Udine.
FERRY: Company VENTOURIS Line, all campers will be accepted as 5 to 7 mt. (Some, including mine, are over 7 mt.) for € 156 (Bari-Igoumenitsa-trip) Boarding September 4 at 20.00. Be paid immediately to the company by 30% for booking. The group leader takes charge of a single payment, pay that amount with the balance of the share trip in July.
CATS: Cats are our problem, we have two, have always been with us on all trips, are now old men: Sketch has 14 years and 18 princess, we do not feel for him to do a similar trip, we plan to put in a boarding house in a neighboring country, we will cost about € 800.00, but you can not help it, plus we are warned that they could refuse border animals without reason, and this convinces us completely.
MEETING: The starting point is Benevento, for various reasons we can not be there, we will embark in Bari
Tell us that two teams, for different reasons, forego the trip, I am sorry for them, but in this long journey is better to be in a limited number

 

497/4165 – Miyane – Solmaz Hotel

Alarm 4 hours starting 5 am
At customs Barzagan we lost more than 4 hours, we find the exit guide: Hadi, Overland and the same group that last year he visited Iran, has 45 years, speaks fluent Italian who studied in Italy. We need to move the clock forward two hours.
Miyan until the road is where we find a distinguished fine with water and light

320/4485 – Tehran – Lahet Hotel

Stop for visit the mausoleum of Oljeitu with a dome of 25 meters. It is under renovation and is therefore surrounded by scaffolding.
Good road to the top then the Highway Fund to pay with poor surface.
Upon arrival in Tehran driving wrong way several times, the city is a unique mess, motorists are fools holding the steering wheel, police helplessly on the roadside without intervening and 10 campers in the midst of this chaos they send in tilt movement, following various information to reach the hotel, the No. 1 and the guide come to ask where to park, after exactly one hour back and finally reaches the place where to spend the night, exhausted than to reiterate what happened and we do not more than a bite to eat and sleep.
The only caveat is that you can make is that the Iranian leadership has not previously prepared the way to go, and avoid going around in circles of hell for this city and not make us wait so long to settle down in the parking lot.

0/0 – Shiraz – in flight

Up at 3 in the van at the airport at 8.40 am flight to Shiraz, party punctual, arriving after an hour, only negative is that we had 5 teams participating in this trip, a total of 10 people and tickets were only 9 so pair No. 9 was on the ground, all this to the wrong jurisdiction of the agency bookings.
On leaving the airport we know our guide: Mitla a woman who speaks fluent Italian having lived 9 years in Naples, married with two children born in Italy is very nice and is fun to talk to her, but we quickly realize that is very full and many of our questions are not answered.
Let's start with a van to visit Persepolis, very important archaeological site, is impressive, you walk a lot between a building and another, even if the humidity is zero to 40 degrees and the more you feel and the return on the bus is a relief for all .
Packed in a very beautiful and features offered by the agency to apologize for the last night, after dinner nap in their characteristic beds in the garden.
Visit the city with its mausoleums, mosques, covered with mirrors that is fantastic and finally the bazaar is included.
All very nice and interesting.
The plane is at 21.55, party on time and arrived on time.
Hadi was punctual to expect, but the bus that we had to return to the camper delayed nearly an hour, we were tired and fatigued a little bit altered.
After returning an unwelcome surprise, the tarry of the group had decided that the next day they would continue their journey by skipping a visit to the city, hard our grievances that we would not see anything in Tehran, in the end the # 1 determines that all will proceed as program.

0/0 – Tehran – Lahet Hotel

Continued discussion with the rest of the company who wanted to leave, the van the night before had been canceled and then asked again late in coming. Awaiting them will decide to visit the mountain via chairlift Tochal Messac available free of charge by the head of the district, it goes up to 2935 Mt, beautiful landscape, there are ski lifts and ski slope, of course missing the snow, near the hotel Tochal we drink tea in a luxury room, inform us that a double room with half board costs $ 130.00, even skiing here is not for everyone.
The afternoon with the arrival of the bus tour the National Museum and the Museum of Islam very interesting, because you see what was missing in Persepolis, Hadi also explains in clear and compelling history and the important events in the history of Persia.
Dinner Restaurant Ghazak Adeh sleep with music ($ 10 each)

647/5132 – Parking at the Police station along the road

Departure at 7
A nasty surprise awaits us, cause flooding of a section of road that we had to go, we must make a detour of more than 200 km. On an ugly, narrow mountain road, which unfortunately we do at night, we meet with the guide to customs and can not be late, we stop for an hour's rest and move on.

607/5739 – Ashgabat (Turkmenistan) – Nissan Hotel

It starts at three, but we're too tired, we stop again shortly afterwards for a rest of two hours of sleep and restart, it will travel to the bitter end, the rest just because a shot at No. 9 with sleep with one half of the heel immediately checked avoid going up against the mountain.
Arrival at 14:10 hours Iranian customs exit customs Turk. 17:05 pm

Continue on "Going to Samarkand, 2005" Part Four

215/8516 – Mashhad (Iran) – Homa Hotel

Continued from "Samarkand, 2005" Part Six

Good now we present to the customs and waited for the arrival of the commander of the post, again we explain why we were late that the police chief Mary can confirm, in the meantime I had prepared the photos of the accident on the computer to show him Elena almost started crying, the bureaucrat did not want to hear reason, we had to go pay $ 118 a camper for visa renewal.
This figure could have been avoided had we arrived on time, I feel guilty because the incident happened to me all they had to shell out the money not covered, I know ... ... .. was not my fault, but this disturbs me equally.
Turkmenistan last barrier of another control of the media, will tell us or force us to drink all the alcohol in our possession, bottles or cans that we bought in their country but who do not want to put her in Iran where it is forbidden to use alcohol .
After this adventure, we arrive at customs where we find the good Iranian Hadi practices that will help us in the infinite customs of his country.
It moves the clock back an hour and a half.
It arrives in Mashhad is already evening, skip the visit to the city, unfortunately, considered by Muslims the third holiest city after Mecca and Medina.
Arrival and accommodation at the hotel car park, its director shows us the gardens and outdoor pavilions where we offer tea, then a bus takes us to a fabulous restaurant, where it will eat well, besides the usual things we are lamb chops delicious, the waiters are so very thoughtfully brought us boxes to store leftovers, and met with a full stomach we move towards the center where, at the end of long driveway, there is the mausoleum of Imam Reza, unfortunately the We can only admire from the outside, for tourists, there are schedules to be met, Hadi try to make us see the inside but it is impossible, we will continue to visit the usual bazaar, then all to bed.

520/9036 – Sharud – Bastam Tourist Hotel

Departure at 8.30, the person who was to accompany us out of the city traffic came late, but without him it would not be able to extricate Hadi in this chaotic city for the multitude of pilgrims who arrive and depart each day to visit the tomb of ' Imam Reza.
During the tour you visit the caravanserai of Sharaf Rubat on the Silk Road, a beautiful building that is not being restructured to make it to its former glory but to make a distinguished.

536/9572 – Kordan – Varzeshi Hotel

Inform us that during the trip we followed and recovered and then interviewed by a local TV.
The program includes a visit to an old mosque Damgam and the visit to the city of pistachios Senman, we proceed without stopping first at the mosque and then to the town of Senman and no one has warned us of this change.
Suddenly, the radio, alerting us to close ranks, to travel very close and compact because the TV was filming there. Then you stop at a yard and begin the interviews, the questions are translated from the pseudo director Hadi, some are more intelligent very stupid in the end fall on the No. 1 who, without being asked, makes a speech in defense of Iran and against America, not desirable because it is presented as a spokesman for the group without question it, many people are not of his political idea and have disagreed, plus I felt out of place the way it does, we are campers, we are at peace and carriers of peace and our interest is that there are no barriers and boundaries that we can travel the world without hindrance of any kind, I know ... ... ... .. this is utopia, but to create hatred against nation, to me, is very wrong.
At the end of the day on the ring road of Tehran, Hadi surprise us, makes us stop in a large open area where there is a large building, some speak of a large supermarket, then explains that it is the mausoleum of Komeini, the visit barefoot, it's great, is not finished yet but I see it finished, it will be something impressive.

0/0 - Isfahan – Varzeshi Hotel

Wake up early, the bus arrives at 3.30 and leads us to the airport in about an hour, the plane is at 6.00, starting on time, regular flight, arrival at 7.00, here we accept the guide, a lady who speaks perfect 's Italian, has never been to Italy and studied our language here in his hometown, is not religious and wears a veil because it is imposed, you hear the flip side, the voice of the opposition.
Isfahan is like a beautiful city, orderly and clean, the first thing our guide leads us to see the old bridge, now only for pedestrians, then the mountain of fire and the minarets swaying, a glance at the large square, one of the most beautiful and large the world and then to lunch, today is the first day of Ramadan, the restaurants are closed, finds a solution leads to a hotel for tourists, where we eat very well.
You return to the main square and visit the palaces and mosques that surround it and finally could not miss the bazaar.
The No. 10 must buy a rug that has been commissioned by his daughter, had to be a certain type, to some extent and a certain color, our guide takes us on a large shop, where there is what is required, requested telephone confirmation via msg, the daughter gives the OK and the purchase is made. Then you go to a store of miniatures, one of us proposed the collective purchase of a picture to offer at No. 1, I do not consider it appropriate and I refuse to participate in the collection, sharing the cost in 9 and not in 10. To while away the time to take the start in the local characteristic under one of the bridges visited this morning. Back at the airport all sleepy and tired, take a flight of 23.00 and you return to the camper, you will arrive at the hotel at 1.30.

273/9845 – Ramsar – Ramsar Hotel

Departure 8.30
Today Hadi travels with us, we are in the lead and drive the column, have the guide in the camper is nice: you can ask him many things relating to his country, details of his private life, curiosity and behavior in their religion, in this period c ' Ramadan and he is being very religious, I respect, but being on the road, away from his home is exempted from doing so, must recover these days in another period within the year, we promise to noon what he likes time: spaghetti with tomatoes and parmesan, but the No. 1 gives us a hand, being late on the roadmap agreed that the lunch break will be half an hour, good-will have to settle for canned spaghetti and tomato salad. Hadi vents and calls the No. 1 "Tyrant"
The route is mountainous with its ups and downs, unfortunately abuse brake overheat and after lunch leave, I realize that the means not holding back more, I stop immediately with the hand brake, the whole column stops, Hadi to ascertain a mechanic, is 5 km on the road, joins him slowly, after a purge of the liquid and added again, we lost three hours. Then you'll know that the accident damaged the rear brake pipe and hold back only in order to overheat.
Reach Ramsar is already dark, the parking of the hotel is almost on the beach, we hear but not see, of course the day would be a good show.
Hadi offers a visit to the spa and the bazaar, then dinner at a seafood restaurant in the area, all accept the visit to the bazaar, but for dinner we are only three pairs, someone does not want to see the baths before the bazaar because interesting, so the coach who had already entered the spa back toward the center to bring all the bazaar, it begins to rain, the first water in a month or more for travel, many come back on the minibus taxi and other returning directly to the camper, disappointing after the visit to the spa, you go to dinner, in addition to us adding the crew No. 1 and 8, excellent fish is good and cooked well.
Return and everyone to bed, tomorrow we start soon

280/10125 – Anzali – Sefidkenar Hotel

The No. 1 decides that tonight is not going to Anzali, but directly to Tabriz, we will know then that must buy more rugs in the bazaars of this city and need time to choose.
Masulek visit to the village, a beautiful village in the mountains, when you get one it seems like so many others, but, further along the paths and alleys you find that the houses are built against the mountain and the roof of a house, with their chimneys becomes the terrace of the house above it, the inevitable bazaar has stalls on the roofs of the houses below, here we supply the place of traditional sweets, all made of honey and nuts, cakes and cookies with a calorie exaggerated, we holiday you should not look at these things !!!!!
During the visit to this beautiful village, a fact makes us sad, we see women around a house that stretch their hands toward where they are thrown from a window of packets. Hadi explains that those people are the country's poor and what they receive are pieces of lamb meat, this animal was sacrificed (slaughtered) and offered to God for a favor received.
More trouble with my trailer: it breaks the cable clutch pedal, other investigations of the mechanism that could reach without changing gear, replacement of the cable that fortunately has a similar mechanical and restart, I am very disappointed ... ... .... capitano tutte a me.
Hadi heartened me in his own way, tells me that God is testing me, but he loves me and wants me to offer a lamb to the poor, to thank him because things could be worse, I believe in little but respect his conviction, and remembering the scene this morning to accept his proposal, not because of what he told us, but to give food to those in need, I believe this expenditure is more just than buying a carpet.
The repair takes time and returns to the old program, we arrive at Anzali is already dark.
In the evening my wife can call the hotel ($ 15 x 3 minutes) in Italy to retirement to feel like they are the cats: Princess bad news for some days not eating and not moving, the lady is afraid he is dying and asks, in an inappropriate manner, if something were to happen it must if cremation or burial, the news brings me crying and I stay too bad, but there is only a cat becomes attached as a Christian. Go to bed with so much sadness.

444/10569 – Tabriz – Pars Hotel

Departure 6.30,.
During the drive the No. 4 indicate a fault with the brakes, just stop there and we see an oil leak at the front right wheel, Hadi worries immediately find a mechanic, who not having the tube parts can not simply plug the entrance and exit and stop the oil flow to that wheel, tomorrow at Agri in Turkey Fiat will repair.
Today in the road, we found the motorists, especially truck drivers, more vicious than usual during their overtaking more than one of us was literally thrown off track in the dirt.
Our car park is beautiful, after we settled Hadi offers a visit to a nearby pond very nice, we give up we are tired and I have a pain in the tendon of his right foot that I hurt and I did not want to walk, we do a nice plate of spaghetti and then to bed. I will say then that the pond was not much and who went to dinner at ate well but has also spent a great deal.

290/10859 – Barzagan (customs Iran/ Turkey) – customs parking

A minibus takes us to the center at 8 am for a visit to the Blue Mosque, very beautiful and interesting because of its decorations of a deep blue, then to the museum: a small but instructive and finally all the bazaar where we reach the 6 that had already seen the Tabriz last year were not with us in previous trips, Hadi with the No. 4 will look to replace the pipe broke yesterday, among other shops and countless women indulge in various shopping, the No. 1 finally able to purchase the Latest carpets, I hope he does not check the camper customs otherwise be trouble.
Meeting at the exit of the bazaar at 11, the van arrives on time with the No. 4 he found the pipe, back to the hotel and once you've filled with water, leave the car park of the hotel, not before they had recovered last night my electric cable that was attached to their unit in an unorthodox manner, having no outlet Schuco have used my electric cables linking it with two bats, trying to come off, the attendant, he made contact with the chassis and jumped around, I retrieved my cable and I left quell'incosciente to remedy the damage done immediately leave for the border, stop in a small town where a mechanic will attempt to mount the tube at No. 4 but could not because is suitable, while all having lunch.
Customs Arrival at 18.30, start with the formalities of customs: carnet, passports and documents, in the meantime, the guide presents the account of what he spent on us throughout the time that Iran has been with us: of fuel consumed ( I lt. 573) of the dinners, the buses used for the various ticket revenue to various museums and monuments, all over € 85 (eighty-five) really a trivial amount.
The whole practice stopped because customs report from Turkey that computers are still, therefore everything is postponed until tomorrow morning, sleep in the square of the customs, all in bed at 21.30, to 22.00 a soldier awakens us and warns us that we can pass the border, coated and sleepy still practices and finally we are across the border, still on the square we stop for the night.

CONTINUE ON "Going to Samarkand 2005" Part Eight