A trip to Jordan done by myself with diving experience in Aqaba, Red Sea

I make two assumptions before leaving with the story, the first, that this is our first diary, the second to specify the way we travel: we like to make travel arrangements on their own without the support of travel agents, but at the same time we prefer to choose hotels in a strategic way, both for position and for searching the Internet and allowing Italy (where possible). It is certainly not as adventurous backpacker travel deciding where to go from day to day, but it gives us the opportunity to optimize the timing and join the adventure also beautiful moments of comfort and relaxation.

 

Before leaving.....

Missing four weeks of vacation and we have not yet decided where to go, the planned trip to California has slipped to next year and we are here to think about a new destination. Then I think my aunt has lived in Jordan a few years and I might ask if it is the right time to turn it. Said than done! His response was: "If you do not mind the 40-odd degrees in the shade then go down to ten at night, then it is a beautiful country to visit!"

Informed me one bit 'on the Jordan and planned the trip. The goal is to dedicate one week to turn the hinterland and the second week in diving at sea.

Then I book a flight with Royal Jordanian, Monaco - Amman / r € 485.00 each. There is also the possibility of making the trip on his return from Amman and Aqaba, but costs much more.

From Italy I book also: Hotels for the first night in Madaba, Death Sea Hotel, Hotel in Petra, Hotel in Aqaba. I would also contact without paying in advance with the rental car, the Bedouin of Wadi Rum and the hotel in Amman.

Madaba

We arrive in Munich (Germany), stage sets for drinking a good beer before you leave and go, we fly to Jordan ... we should be arriving at the airport with Moh'd's Reliable Rent car (we have the best prices) to take the car and start the journey.
We arrive in Amman 40 minutes late. After taking the luggage changed a bit 'of money and passing the passport control, where there are also a tourist visa for 2 weeks, all very fast.
Exit starts the search for Moh'd. All realize that we are looking for someone and you offer to help. But no one knows who he is. Check the phone to see if I called anything but between one thing and another you are made of 21.30. I think, after years eventually had to get the first scam, luckily I had paid! OK, we start to look for another agency. In the airport there are two, I contracted with both and I finally chose the Europcar (6 days for delivery in Aqaba 240 JD).
Take the car out and depart for Amman Madaba looking for a gas station, because you damage the car in full reserve.
We arrive in Madaba at about 23, we stop to ask a lot of people but it seems that nobody (including the police) know the hotel Mariam. When exhausted by the day and after losing a long time I stopped by a taxi driver and ask him to make my way, he asks me and I 5JD chaos machine playing (you'll understand what that means) I without treatment. Two minutes and we're in, the time to back your bags and go to dinner there before. Only then did we think of the beautiful rip-off the driver and that if the light inside the machine it worked just look at the map to the Lonely Planet! And that 5JD are almost 5 euro! very simple in hindsight ... Wow ... I have just recognized.

Madaba – Death Sea

We get up early and go to breakfast, we pay 30JD the room and begin to visit Madaba. The first archaeological park (2JD), where you can view important mosaics and later the church of S. George (1JD) (Sunday you can visit after 10.30 am Mass when it ends). The church is very nice especially for the mosaic of the Promised Land. All 'out we decide to go directly to Mount Nebo in Madaba qunto not particularly impressed us. At the top we enjoy the beautiful landscape, we pay 1JD input and begin the tour. The Basilica in this period was completely torn down to be able to rebuild and then makes the site a little 'a yard. After the tour we go down to the Dead Sea: the road is scenic and beautiful landscape. Not recommended to climb in the dark as it is very steep, with hairpin turns without gardreil.
We arrived about an hour later, we find the hotel immediately Movenpik (101 euros B & B), is a bit 'expensive but for a night it is a good price. The hotel, they say, is the most luxurious of Jordan and I think it's true. Let soon bring the suitcases in the room otherwise you could also wait hours ... (I finally have brought me alone).
We are eager to enter the water so we rush to the beach, 10 'walk from the room because the hotel is great (to access the beach came to the pools you can use a funicular). The heat is felt, as much as 60 degrees with high humidity, but do not know why it is tolerated very well. We enter the water slowly so as not to splash, floating sensation you feel immediately and you realize how many unexpected scratches you wearing! Out of the water fills our body with mud and then back into the water to rinse. Now it is almost evening and the beach begins to take the semblance of a theater, all waiting for the famous sunset over the Dead Sea.
That evening we eat at the hotel because there is nothing outside and between a belly dance show and one I'll see Italy lose on penalties, among the happy songs of all non-Italian tourists.

Death sea – Karak

The morning starts with an endless buffet, then swimming in the sea and mud until noon and it's off to Karak.
In the street we stop at the beginning of the nature reserve of Wadi Mujib in a beautiful canyon, sin could not stay another day to see her, but in summer it is not advisable: it is too hot.
We continue the path to Karak, 3 or 4 must pass army checkpoints, they want to do serious at first but not last long, and immediately begins to laugh and joke about the state of mind of the Italians on the day after Spain.
We arrive at your destination after about 2 hours. Before visiting the castle we go to look for a place to eat. The country is very nice and finally a taste 'of real Jordan.
There's so many people around and nobody bothers to sell us something, indeed, it seems that everyone will give the welcome. We stop at a restaurant to taste the famous shawarma, Stefania is the only woman sitting together but since I do not create any situation of stress. The restaurant is a university professor of English know many young people who gives us a little 'Tips on Jordan and talk football as usual (it seems strange, but the Jordanians are really crazy about the Italian national team and football in general). You pay 3JD for two courses with side dishes and drinks and we understand that this is not a place where many tourists come. Going to the castle I buy CDs to listen to Arabic music in the car (JD 1 each), and passing to a tailor to get us to sign, I can not stand it. We have a tea with mint and chat for long. Before going out to get me dressed as Arabs insist and make me the photos. Do not drink yet another rejection and the incredibly good and then we move. The owner wants us to go to his house the next day for breakfast and if we do not proceed to Petra we would go. (I note that unlike other places in the world that their hospitality has no ulterior motive of profit but they do so for one company).
The castle is incredibly beautiful and wonderful, we must ask those who work to bring inside in the basement very suggestive. We find a guide who speaks a little 'in Italian and he visited all the floors of the castle. Meanwhile it was getting late and we have to go to Petra.
The trip takes about 3 ½ hours, the road is beautiful, you will pass several villages very nice and scenic places where it is impossible not to stop resisting. Warning that the road is not made very well and also do not recommend it in the dark.
We arrived in Wadi Musa (the village built around Petra) at 20.30, looks like a crib, we like now. We find the hotel where we booked (hotel Mariott 62 euro per night B & B, it enjoys a breathtaking view that is located in the upper town), since the time we have dinner at the hotel be careful not to order sparkling mineral water because it costs more than wine!

Petra

Wake up at six in the morning, in a splendid buffet breakfast and head towards the old city. We must get there early before all the organized groups to enjoy the silence of the place. We make the ticket valid for two days (26JD), buy a map of the Royal Jordanian Geographic Center in 3JD (JD 5 but there will ask you to see that it says on the Lonely 3. The map is very important if you want to do laps alternative) and enter. The first day we decide to do the classic tour to the Monastery. There are no words to describe Petra, we must see it! The last piece of the restaurant to the Monastery is a bit 'tiring (in summer because it's pretty hot). But it is a good price. At the top awaits an enchanting place. I advise you to go over for half an hour to get to vantage points really impressive (you can also find that we have Bedouin tea).
After sipping the mint discreet sitting gazing at the monastery, we move for the return. The temptation to accept the shift in the carriage is so because the fatigue is felt, but there is more taste to do it on their own feet. We stop for lunch at a restaurant in town where Sandstone plus a good kebab (not to be confused with what is found in Italy) we ate a good Greek salad.
We go to hotels where we relax a bit 'in the pool and in a nice turkish bath (included in room price).
Evening dinner in the village at Al-Arabi: excellent food and costs very little. We then tour the country. We suggest you stop at bakery / pastry shop to buy some of their delights. We supply of water and bananas (useful for drop in energy) and then to bed.

Petra

Even today up at six and down to Petra. Today we will tour alternative arrival at Bab As-Siq (where the left begins the famous canyon that leads to the treasure), take the right direction behind the "cabinet" to a gallery, you will see a sign indicating that no driving is dangerous but apart from a couple of points is not binding. We pass through a narrow canyon incredibly charming that will take us to the graves almost inaccessible to tourists. Among these, we also encounter two Bedouin women who call us from far away to invite us to drink tea with them and the small Aurevoir only 5 months, from happiness greets Stephanie, who held him in her arms, making her pee on his pants, but by .. peed of children, they say, is holy. During the journey we meet many people: a French family, a Lebanese, a group of three young Americans and some other pair. With all exchange a few words ...
(so far the trip has also scored well on lonely) from the graves at some point we take a path up the hill on the left, because it recognizes the grave behind a particularly large above which may also rise (before the Royal Tombs). At the end of this path, particularly if the day is very tiring, hot, you get to see the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) from above. Warning: The most beautiful place to see and a pitch from a tree above it is not particularly difficult to get down but I can not recommend it to those who have a little experience with the rocks.
We try to retrace their steps because you can not go any further and we arrive at the Royal Tombs of where we go and continue on our path to the Siq to the exit. We look for the last time the Treasury, rifacciamo the last time the canyon and let the ancient Petra. We stop to buy two ice creams and then we go to relax in the hotel.
In the evening we go to eat at Sandstone good lamb, try an Internet point to check if it is confirmed the hotel in Amman and then to bed.

Wadi Rum

Wake up at 5.30 quick breakfast and off we go to Wadi Rum, the street is beautiful but is not marked well. It should also be careful on the freeways when to change direction and go on the road opposite (the road is sealed. Then make a U-turn as soon as possible and go back until you hit the road you take).
We arrive at the park shortly after nine o'clock and there we expect Ali (http://www.bedouinroads.com/jeeptour.htm) for the tour in the desert. There are two ways to see the Wadi Rum: the first is a camel, very nice and relaxing for the sake of silence. The other way is with the SUV, is not as romantic, but you can see much more. We opted for the latter solution.
Let's start with the jeep and the first stage is the source of water. There are still several jeeps and a few groups of people, we go away immediately. The ride in the desert is really beautiful and fortunately solo. We stop the heat in a shady place to eat 's hummus (mashed chickpeas), tuna and a bit' of tomatoes and cucumbers with Arabic bread. The silence is indescribable, even to 3000 meters on a mountain it has such a feeling. We continue the tour with the SUV (I still wonder how she move that wreck without plaque, the worst I've ever seen) until sunset, we could see from the top of a rock. We go by the camp where we spend the night, we're dirty and sweaty, we rinsed with a little 'of water that is in camp, we know two American girls and a chat between a Canadian and the other begin to feel the smell of chicken on the grill. Finished eating we are all tired and go to sleep, but when the lights went out here is a show that I could never describe, and not even been possible to photograph, the lights of the stars as never seen before, extremely close and bright, even the way Milky had an intensity that seemed unreal, we were mesmerized. We go to sleep, they said that the temperature should reach 0 degrees at night, but was not the case (it is not particularly cold, so we did not even use the sheets. Bring a sweater anyway and a pair of long pants). At 2 and a half in the morning I wake up to physiological needs and out of the tent a lunar landscape presented itself to my eyes, the moon was illuminating everything, Stephanie woke up too soon and I did leave the tent to admire 'surroundings, it was like being on Mars.

Wadi Rum – Aqaba

The next morning we get up at seven, breakfast with tomatoes, cucumbers, hummus and eggs and it's back to the park entrance, we take the car and it's off to Aqaba.
There are several groups that organize these trips, you'll find on the internet. To give just one half-day tour you do not need to book but if you want to spend the night in the desert you should choose first and get in touch with them, so you pay at the end. I would not recommend the "Bedouins" to which I have supported me, because, first of all, the guide was too young and of few words (even their leader is certainly a well of sympathy), second, I think that for 50JD head could invest more about the quality of food and cleanliness. Still talking with other people encountered in the journey the other organizers were not so many words, but at least the jeeps were better and I think the cleanliness of the camp.
The trip to Aqaba is quite fast, about an hour. We find no problems the hotel (Hotel Intercontinental, 820 euro two people a week, maybe a little 'pricey but in line with all the hotel with a beach, in any case can not miss anything). The room will be ready for the 14:00 are 10.00 and we are not sure how two fragrant roses. Wonder if there is an opportunity waiting to achieve a rinsed and gently make us go to the SPA Hotel (later I discovered happily be included in the price) and face one of the best showers of my life ...
Let's go a bit 'in the pool, we go out to eat something (the nearby McDonald's, the first that I see in Jordan) and then back to the hotel to see if the room is ready.
Increased, we enter into a beautiful room with view of Eilat. The day continues on the beach where it's quite warm ... The Gulf of Aqaba certainly does not offer a splendid view, indeed, the adjacent ports completely ruin the view. The beach is sandy and small but not lacking anything.
At about 18:00 we decided to go for a diving center, partly because the diving area is 12 km south of Aqaba and to 22.00 we have the car so you do not have to take a taxi.
NOTE TO SUB: There are various diving in Aqaba and are divided mainly those that are boat dives and those from the beach. As the first prices are clearly the most expensive and offer packages of two dives and lunch 50JD. From the land cost about 20JD to draft and make it 3 a day. I chose Aqaba Adventures Divers Talal 16JD immersion without equipment because I had everything. The center is certainly not the best, often lack water, but they are really smart and nice, are finishing to prepare the new center nearby at a small but comfortable apartment. We have watched the under construction (completion of work this fall) and will certainly be very functional and beautiful, at attractive prices. So I can recommend: www.Aqaba-divers.com info@Aqaba-divers.com.

That evening we eat at the famous La Flok, and certainly we are not disappointed, the fish is really good.
Tired back to the hotel tomorrow and finally sleeping.

28/07 to 04/08 in Aqaba

The days at Aqaba were almost like diving, relax and walks in the evening. So I will make a list of tips on things more interesting, the restaurants where we were good and some tips for divers.

Hotels with beach are 2: The Intercontinental and Movenpik, the others are all without the beach. Those in the center are a bit 'uncomfortable but certainly not easy.
The beach is beautiful South Beach (12km south of Aqaba), from where you can dive, the one in the center is not free nor fair, nor those of the hotels.
In South Beach are completing a massive complex of hotels and shops, here certainly has the advantage of the beautiful sea, but the disadvantage of being away from downtown and certainly as the area's true charm of Aqaba.
If you have the car still highly recommend this area and do not underestimate the new residence of Talal, especially for lovers of diving or for those who want a pleasant accommodation at a good price.

The most famous restaurants can be found at all the guides, but beware that some no longer exist and you risk wasting time looking for them. Apart from the most famous I can advise the pizzeria / gelateria "the course" if you're tired of spicy food and want to take a good pizza (I recommend the pants in particular) by spending very little. Is located in Al-Nahda street.
Another very nice restaurant where they make good fish is on the corner of Via Al - Aa'Ada in front of an ice cream (the ice cream man speaks Italian very well, he lived eight years in Italy, and you can contact him if you need information in English can not ask). I do not remember the name of the restaurant, recognized for the elegance of the upstairs, in particular the fish is good and has better prices of his famed colleagues.

As for the evening do not miss the lively promenade of Aqaba, where they meet all the locals to smoke hookah, drink some good tea and a swim at night. The waterfront side of the flag (can not see it because it's the second largest in the world) almost to the mosque. Tourists there are not few but do not worry, you will be welcomed. Particularly at the beginning of the promenade there is a nice dock where you can sit and enjoy the frizzantezza the place.

Regarding the exchange of money, avoided the hotels, the best thing banks are slightly more unfavorable changes in the westen union.

The free beaches are the most beautiful but you have to respect the locals without the bikinis, covering them with a shirt or replacement with a swimsuit. The local women bathe fully clothed or with appropriate costumes for women, respectful of their customs (you will also see them in shop windows of sport).

Diving enthusiasts, do not forget an adapter for those attacks, ext., Try to treat you personally to rinse your equipment after each dive because they tend to be a bit 'too superficial.
The dives are beautiful, although you should not expect the Red Sea in Egypt!, And almost all shallow. The water temperature in summer is around 25 ° (in winter is expected to fall by up to 3 °), but we recommend a wetsuit for the entire large amount of corals.
Immersion tank to classical and, in particular you recommend it at night for the quantity of small fish that hide inside.
Bello also the wreck of the vessel Cedar Pride, the wreck is lying completely on one side and the top one has a strange feeling of disorientation.
There is another wreck which I do not remember the name that is approximately 40 meters in depth, but also because they struggle to bring you must request special permissions.
The night dives are more expensive and one of the reasons is that we must go first to catch a military barracks in the army would wait outside the water for as long dive. In Jordan have very strict controls on diving, diving just think that each should send a fax to rangers every morning with the names and nationality of all the divers entering the water. The first day of diving the fax did not arrive and when we emerged from the water were two soldiers waiting for us.

Aqaba – Amman

At 7 am Mahmud, our taxi driver (if you're without a car in Aqaba and want to move often, like to go from downtown to South Beach or vice versa (for divers transfer always do the diving, but if you want to come back before you call the taxi) you should also be arranged with a taxi driver, a good deal in exchange rate and will always call him), was timely as ever in front of the hotel waiting for us. Until we get to the airport about 40 minutes, as is normal we get almost 2 hours before but the controls for these flights are really fast and then in 15 'we were the embargo, could sleep an hour longer ....
The plane leaves on time and in 40 'we are in Amman, Tickets cost 29 euros each.
Once at the top we see the first rip-off from capital: the taxi to Amman costs 22 JD untreatable and other means are not there. We arrive at the daily Rozana Hotel Suites (54 euros per night, do not be impressed by the name, is one of the cheapest hotels in Amman and its position is interesting because it is situated on the road to the airport, so far from the downtown traffic ). In the hotel ask if you can get a taxi the next morning to return to the airport, they tell us that there is no problem, the cost 25JD, I tired of the rip-offs of capital (I do not want the residents of the capital ...) I tell them that I arranged by myself. We go from the reach the main road and flag down a taxi to go to the citadel, the friendly and honest taxi driver turns on the meter and you go, 25 'about 3JD. Opposite the citadel, you will find coaches to offer a 8JD transfers for all the areas most important for the whole day, I do not think it's worth, it is better to turn up and take many trips taxis. The citadel is nice and from there you can see the flag of the world's largest. If you're ever at the time of prayer is very special to be there to hear the sermons from all parts of the city. From the citadel you can proceed to the Roman theater and then walk the path of the lonely.
Beware, if you can avoid Amman on Friday is better, because so many important places and mosques are closed or opened for a few hours (for Muslims, the weekend includes Friday and Saturday). If I tell you it is because clearly we are finished on Friday.
Precisely for this reason after a few hours we had seen everything and we were a bit 'tired of running around them, because shops and stalls soon become monotonous. And it is while we were sitting on a ladder to think what to do at 3 o'clock in the afternoon we do a very important meeting: Maher a boy of about 38 years ago that the freelance guide and speaks excellent English, has lived for several years in Europe but he returned to Jordan for family reasons, says that across town there are some new shopping centers are also open on Friday and that the locals are all there. If we wanted to 3JD would bring. We malls do not bear much, but we had no other option. We accept and go, on the occasion to do some 'of friendship, and so tells us of his work. Arrived offer him a drink because it's a really smart person, unlike his countrymen, did not sound the horn continuously, it runs into the car and is the modern mind, as a hobby clearly plays in a football team. Maher offered to bring us back to the hotel for free, but not because we wanted to accept blame and comfortable stay for dinner in that area, it then offers to take us to the airport the next day for just 10JD (taxis independent requests 18, 20 JD) I accept and tells us how all his former colleagues (he worked several years in the Amman hotel reception) we see only such as a road kill!
I wrote all this to him because it is not easy to find someone so honest, perhaps too much to live in that city. However if you go to Amman you can contact me by e-mail also organize trips to the neighboring areas (Madaba, Jerash, Death Sea, etc. ...) its address is: maher_abukhalaf@yahoo.com mobile: 00962 796662371, if you please contact salutatemelo.

The End

In the morning we go down to reception and Swiss, our friend was there waiting for us. Halfway asks me if I want to drive and me and accept me for the last kilometers on Jordanian soil.
Arriving at the airport we salute you and promise that his seriousness and honesty will be rewarded ....
Note: At the airport duty free shops selling all products from the Dead Sea (they are really good, Stefania tent in Wadi had taken an irritation on his hand that persisted after a week, put out of curiosity, the Dead Sea hand cream and after two days she had nothing) at the same prices in the cities.

We fly to Monaco, the holiday is over!