anelim : middle east : jordan : umm qays, gadara, ajlun, lake of tiberias, makkah, jerash, madaba, kerak, petra, mount nebo, amman, beida, wadi rum, diseh,

Tripscoop.net is an exciting traveller community of the world

Travel review JORDAN
Jordan, shway shway (piano piano, dolcemente)

Umm Qays, Gadara, Ajlun, lake of Tiberias, Makkah, Jerash, Madaba, Kerak, Petra, Mount Nebo, Amman, Beida, Wadi rum, Diseh,

gruppo golden tulip

send as postcard

Condividi su facebook

Pagine 1

Jordan, shway shway (piano piano, dolcemente)

Località: Umm Qays, Gadara, Ajlun, lake of Tiberias, Makkah, Jerash, Madaba, Kerak, Petra, Mount Nebo, Amman, Beida, Wadi rum, Diseh,
Stato: JORDAN (JO)

content:

photos:

Vote this travel review

WIND OF JORDAN (short report) For some time I wanted to visit Jordan, but considerations of various kinds, I had always done without. And instead, thanks to a last minute, here, in a hot morning in August, the voice of the muezzin, I wake up in Ammanstrong>, the "white city". The first emotions during the journey to the North East of the country, suddenly, like mirages, there are the castles of the desert, the silence is broken by the whine of a strong and constant wind. The next morning departure for the north, towards the border with Syria and Israel. Pause at Umm Qaysstrong>, a mountain village that houses the ruins of the ancient city of Gadarastrong>. Relished the Acropolis is a vast panorama: on the left of the lake of Tiberias, overlooking the border with Syria and the Golan Heights, with the territories occupied by Israel. A knot of emotion in my throat, I take, and we in the land where Jesus Christ lived: here is near the village of Nazareth, about the valley of the Jordan, here in front of the miracle was accomplished by the division of the loaves and fishes, and here, to Gadarastrong>, Jesus helped the possessed. The simplicity of the village, with its little white between fig trees and olive trees, creates an evocative atmosphere, and it is very easy to imagine a figure wrapped in linen cloths, which, with his shoes, tramples these ancient stones. Then travel to the South, to visit castles, fortifications, built by the Muslims or of Saladin, or knights crusaders, to dominate and taglieggiare the caravan routes leading to Makkahstrong>, and Christian pilgrimages to Jerusalem, between the old walls, tunnels, the large scale of the ancient fortresses perched, as if there are echoes of bloody battles. And yet Jerashstrong>, the Pompei of the East ", with the marvelous elliptical piazza and the Via delle Colonne, a small relief, the temple dedicated to Artemis, whose columns shine golden in the light of late afternoon and appear to defy, with Corinthian capitals miraculously intact, the action of wind, the omnipresent wind. The day after the long journey to the south towards Petrastrong>. First stop, Mount Nebostrong>, the mountain from which Moses the Promised Land provides. The place strikes us immediately for its silence and simplicity, from the top of the hill, on a natural terrace cooled by the wind, you can enjoy a splendid view over the Jordan Valley and Dead Sea, in front of us Jericho, Bethlehem and Jerusalem. We now legendary Via dei Re, which follows the path of the biblical Jewish exodus from Egypt. Passing on the winding road, then Mahdi, our Jordanian guide, we are preparing for a clever stroke of the stage, inviting us to close our eyes and the reopening of a signal. And a spectacular lunar canyon suddenly opens up before our eyes: admiring the breathtaking view over desolate moors, once we realize the importance of the presence / absence of water and wind for Jordan. Then the Road of Kings opens on valleys and broader landscapes and sweet, to the valley of Petrastrong>, the city of Nabatei. The next morning we find ourselves at the entrance of the siq, which leads almost secretly in the city, is where Mahdi makes his masterpiece, entering the winding road makes us savor the silence, the infinite variations of light and color, different atmosfere you breathe, the thousand details that, usually, in anxiety to get to the Treasury, are blurred by the majority of tourists. Mahdi invites us to follow a relaxed pace, a note with patience and attention the contrasts between light and shade, changes color, to touch the sand, pleasant to the touch. Petrastrong> shway shway (slowly, slowly), then. Now the rocks are near the siq and appear almost close to it: it's time for another spell. Mahdi invites us to hold hands and proceed with closed eyes after a few moments, in the blinding light of noon, in front of us, an imposing, the Treasury. And then other churches, temples, tombs that dot the walls of sandstone, mountains that seem to become liquid at the hot sun, slowly dissolving the architectural elements that adorn; mixtures of colors that seem produced by a smooth wind combinatore. Then we climb towards the monastery, for space with his eyes on the tops of the mountains and admire the surrounding canyons and deep valleys. And it's time to Mahdi, the mystic. Obtained by us five minutes of perfect silence, during which we hear the voice of the wind whisper and scream from time to time obscure messages. Let's go back on our steps, with no case to fatigue, reliving the emotions experienced. We are grateful to Mahdi for the moments that has given us with kindness and attentive participation. An old Bedouin, sitting on the sand, we intones an old song, accompanied by his traditional "Rabab" by the rope. Mahdi tells the simple and dignified life for these people, their sense of freedom, honor and hospitality ... then translates for us the Bedouin song: 'It is the sun our strength, the moon is our beauty, the desert is our wealth. Tenda nera, but white heart. The color of our blood is the same as that of sand; the smell of our coffee was only rock ' The next day we travel to the "vast, echeggiante and divine" Wadi rumstrong>. Old jeep we enter into this landscape is difficult to describe: the giant towers, huge sandstone monoliths with the base of granite, which seem to appear from the sand to spell, under the shade of a large acacia a child is resting with his flock goats ... Return the road to the north towards Ammanstrong>. I look with new eyes the city at dusk will be the strange light of the moment, be aware that we still have a little time to spend in this country, but now I seem to understand much more about the Jordanian land and its people. While we take farewell, with nostalgia, from Ammanstrong>, the city wraps us in a last embrace, with its vast expanse of houses and huts in white limestone, piled one upon another. A big military plane flies over the sky at low altitude, reminding us that the winds of war blow very close to us, not here, however, where a gentle wind in the upper maintains a kite. And 'this, we carry with us, the last image of a country that, among all other Arab countries, is known for the kindness, friendliness, sensitivity, dignity of his people, a foreign country, considered by many at risk, in which we have recognized a good friend. The wind from the North and the East, that brings memories of past times and harsh messages to its neighbors, at the same time distant. The tireless wind, that plasma and remodels hidden cities, between the mysterious stones of the South The wind load of suggestions, who whispers words of mystery on top of mountains canyons and the changing colors. The wind helping, that caresses the skin burning from the sun in the desert sandstones of flour. The wind gentle and kind the city's white which supports the top, at sunset, the kites of children, messengers of peace.

Day 1: Wednesday-August 4 - ITALY / AMMAN

Here I am, for one week after my return from a tour in Jordan living in Marsa Alam, trying to put on paper (virtual) impressions, emotions, the ideas that make a destination chosen almost by chance, a very special journey ( Mahdi and Victorian, Thanks!).
Almost by chance because the choice has fallen on this destination: I have long wanted to visit and Mauro Jordan, but considerations of various kinds made by those who are near us, we had always done desist. This time, however, thanks to a Turisanda pretty cheap, we decided to go.

Departure from Milan Malpensa (Terminal 2) with charter flight to Livingston Marka Airport in Ammanstrong>.
Estimated time of departure at 14.20, the airplane has more than two hours late. We do not complain: we are in the crucial period in August.
We arrive at the small airport for charter flights to 21.30.
Most travelers will continue to stay in the Red Sea, only about fifty people down in Ammanstrong>.
We welcome Victorian representative Turisanda to Ammanstrong> (in minutes all the formalities are completed) and Mahdi, our Jordanian guide.
We look around, trying to understand who will be part of the group of Jordanian tour (38 people): Some then continue to Syria, others will make a tour of Joint Jordan-Syria.
Long wait in buses: one of our traveling companion did not find his suitcase on arrival (you will discover that it has never been carried in Milan).
Towards midnight we arrive at the first hotel for part of the group (Radisson hotel - a luxury 5-star), and then come together at the second hotel (Golden Tulip - 4 stars-not flashy, but comfortable).

Day 2-Thursday August 5 - AMMAN / CASTLES OF THE DESERT (100 km)

At 8.30 the bus departure for the North East of the country, bordering Iraq.
Mahdi, our guide, he studied at the University of Perugia and knows Italy very well.
For our first day together chose to wear a T-shirt with a map of Jordan: the need to orient ourselves in our first move. We realize now that it is not the usual guide-guide: Mahdi is not only prepared, but does not lose the occasion to try to move closer to his country, making us see even the smallest detail.
First approach with the city of Ammanstrong> as "white city" is modern, clean, served by good roads (traffic flowing fast).
Through the neighborhoods more "poor", Mahdi we noted the presence of many Egyptians, who constitute the workforce of the country.
The most tiring work are left to immigrants from Jordan who, equipped with a high average level of education, public or prefer to use more lucrative professions (many Jordanians are working in Saudi Arabia).
Jordan has many natural resources (potash, phosphates) and invests heavily in education. The school is very high in Jordan and the policy of the government invests most of the resources in this field.
Schools are also present in the most remote, and those who deal with the study results may have access to the best state universities.
After several kilometers in a barren and monotonous landscape (the signs with the signs Baghdad and Iraq are a certain impression), during which our guide tells us about the partitions of these lands by the victors of World War II, we arrive to our first destination: Qasr al-Kharanah, an ancient caravanserai a square in the middle of the desolate plain of the desert.
E 'a high and massive construction of stone, decorated with the distinctive frieze with bricks laid diagonally: the rooms downstairs were used as stables for the animals of the caravan, the large courtyard in the middle a tub collected rainwater.
The upstairs rooms are well kept and maintain medallions and friezes to "wolf-tooth."
Platform on the top you can enjoy a wide panorama on the territories of neighboring countries (Iraq and Saudi Arabia), the silence is broken by the whine of a strong and constant wind.
The Qusair (diminuitivo castle of Qasr =) Amra, is our second destination: Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, is a hunting castle, a small building that faces us in unexpected surprises.
Outside, a well 40 meters deep and a noria (mechanism to draw water) illustrates the need for much water to the hammam (calidarium, tepidarium frigidarium e) of this casino game, that the Caliph Al Walid omayade (who played with ease the Islamic precepts) built around the 710th
What makes this building an unusual little gem are the decorations of the rooms: the frescoes of dancers banned and women to the bathroom, hunting scenes and daily life, surviving the destruction of the iconoclasts, intimate alcoves decorated with gazelles and bunches of grapes , where the meetings took place of the caliph galanti not exactly orthodox.
A curiosity: in the blackened ceiling of one of these rooms, some believe they see the image of the face of Jesus Christ.
Km and still arrive at the Qasr al Azraq, nabatea ancient fortress and headquarters, in 1917, of Lawrence of Arabia.
E 'a fortress with strong walls, built in black basalt (lava pebbles testify to the presence of small volcanoes in the area in distant eras), in the ancient oasis full of water (works by channeling the hours leading precious liquid in Ammanstrong> ).
Originally the building, which is accessed through a door with heavy doors of stone, which includes towers, stables and a small mosque at the center of the courtyard, was much bigger, but most of the structures have collapsed during an earthquake in 1927.
The trip was not very difficult: the temperatures are mitigated by the dry climate and dall'onnipresente wind.
After dinner, and then, before evening out: Victorian us that, although by very little in Jordan, guides us with ease between the fearsome city traffic and crowded streets adjoining the hotel, the shopping area (local) of Gebel al Hussein .

Day 3-Friday August 6 - AMMAN / Gadara / Ajlun / Jerash

In the morning departure for the north, towards the border with Syria and Israel.
Along the way we meet many Palestinian settlements.
Golda Meir called Israel "a land without people for a people without land", but, given the large number (18) and density of these fields planted Palestinians in Jordan in 1948 and 1967, we understand that that land without its people were not .
We arrive at Umm Qaysstrong>, a mountain village (380 meters) that houses the ruins of the ancient city of Gadarastrong>, the "new Athens", one of the most important cities of the Decapolis (Jordanian territory in the other cities were Philadelphia-Ammanstrong>, Gerasa and Pella), the league that brought together ten cities-states that depended directly from the Roman proconsul Pompey.
After the Roman cardo, we reach the Acropolis and suddenly before us, there is a vast panorama: left Lake Tiberias (Sea of Galilee), opposite the Golan Heights, the Occupied Territories Israel (plateau that Israel is hesitant to return to Syria because it derives one third of its water needs) and the border with Syria.
A knot of emotion in my throat, I take, and we in the land where Jesus Christ lived: here is near the village of Nazareth, about the valley of the Jordan, at the lake whose shores, according to the Gospel, the Nazarene was speaking to followers; here in front of the miracle was accomplished by the division of the loaves and fishes, and right here in Gadarastrong>, Jesus drove the demons that had come into possession of some inhabitants of the city.
The simplicity of the village, with its little white between fig trees and olive trees,
more than the grandeur of the ruins of the Roman city, creating an evocative atmosphere, and it is very easy to imagine a figure wrapped in linen cloths, which, with his shoes, tramples these ancient stones.
We visit the ruins of Gadarastrong>, the decumano (the road that crosses the city from west to east), which, unusually, is larger than the cardo (north-south), the well-preserved theater (Mahdi is sorry because it has not yet been cleared from paper and cans, traces of a disturbing spectacle of the night before), the baths.
Let's go back on the bus and go back south towards Ajlunstrong>, where the fortified castle of Arab ar-Qala'at Rabad&224;, perched on top of a hill (1000 m) dominating the whole surrounding area, which is considered one of the best examples of Arab military architecture.
Ajlunstrong> Castle, built by Saladin in the twelfth century. to control the caravan routes leading to Mecca, to the South, and Christian pilgrimages to Jerusalem, resisted the invasion of the Crusaders.
Today is Friday, the day of celebration for Muslims, and the site is visited by many tourists local Ajlunstrong> is a holiday resort full of fresh and green.
The castle is magnificent, full of towers, tunnels, staircases and large rooms, the terrace of the central tower there is a splendid 360 &176; panorama on the fertile valley of the Jordan.
The words of a song by Fabrizio De Andr&233; accompany us on our path toward the next goal.

"King Charles returned from the war
accepts his land then the surround.
Sol to the hot spring
flashes the armor of Sire winner.
The blood of the Prince and the Moro
red crest of the same color
but that the wounds of the body
Charles son after hearing the cravings of love ....."

Carlo Martello
returns from the battle of Poitiers
(F. De Andr&233; - P. Villaggio)

Mahdi increasingly shows to be an exquisite person, intelligent and very special.
His knowledge of Italy never ceases to surprise us and his words make us understand and make us see with new eyes the country from which we hosted.
Thus we come to Jerashstrong>, the ancient Gerasa, one of the best preserved city of the Roman Empire.
After lunch, accompanied by an excellent khobz, a delicious fragrance of Arabic bread oven, we are under the arch of triumph built in honor of the visit the Emperor Hadrian, alongside a race track, ready for the visit to the "Pompeii of the East ".
Crossed the southern port of Philadelphia-port of the city wall (which stretches for 3.5 Km) welcomes us to the beautiful square elliptical (90 x 80 m), surrounded by 56 columns with Ionic capitals, some scholars had a hole, place Member of trade, for others a 'sacred area (temenos) in front of the temple of Zeus.
From here the Via delle Colonne, the thistle long (800 m) still paved with the original, whose sides are crowded ruins of columns, magnificent capitals, friezes of pediments of temples ....
The site is very popular, partly because in the month of July is held in the city the very important International Festival of Gerasa, built by Queen Noor, wife of King Hussein in 1981.
The old road is traveled by tourists local women covered from head to foot, accompanying their many children, and our eyes meet them in an attempt to understand something more about our respective cultures and habits ...
Seeing a ballet offhand of some children on a trip, which will engage in a typical ballet on the balustrade of the Jordanian Nynphaeum, accompanied by the beating rhythm of our hands and their parents.
The great ninfeo, monumental fountain filled with marble and stucco, testifies to the presence in the area of a lot of water, water that flowed around and was transported through pipes.
This morning Mahdi has worn a T-shirt with the image of the temple dedicated to Artemis, and here we are in front of this building, the most important of Gerasa.
The temple, dedicated to the goddess protector of the city, situated on a small relief, and his columns appear to support the sky above.
The column shine the golden light of late afternoon and appear to defy, with Corinthian capitals miraculously intact, the action of wind.
Already, the wind. Here's a new game Mahdi: To demonstrate how the columns moving in the wind, the system in a slot at the base of one of them a key. Incredibly, the key is moved up and down. Do not try to resist the sway of the column with our fingers, it is true, the column moves ranging from the wind, swing on a pivot hidden within them.
We continue the visit to the junction with the decumano, then go up higher, where we expect other ruins, waiting to be still completely in the light and the remains of Byzantine and Christian churches, which retain in polychrome mosaics.
Our walk back in time ends with the Southern Theater: reality comes to meet us in the uniform of Jordanian soldiers guarding the building. It 'program in the concert of a famous local singer, but Mahdi can join us for a few minutes.
In front of stands packed with young, we bypassed intimidated in the proscenium, the curious eyes of the fans waiting.
It 'time to return to Ammanstrong>.
After dinner, we in the Golden Tulip (I, Mauro, Chiara, Daniela, Beatrice, Daniela, Paolo, Monica, Fatma, Francesca and Antonio) spend a pleasant evening in the company of Victorian.

Day 4-Saturday August 7 - AMMAN / MOUNT NEBO / MADABA / KERAK / PETRA (260 Km)

We now expect a long journey to the south towards Petrastrong>.
First stop, Mount Nebostrong> (710 m), the highest point of a small mountain range.
It was from the top of this mountain that Moses, a 120 years, provides for the Promised Land, where he and his generation was prevented to enter. "... From the steppes of Moab, Moses went up on Mount Nebostrong>, and God showed him all the earth: everything Neftal&237;, the whole land of Judah to the Western Sea, the Negheb, the district of the valley of Jericho. God said to him: - this is the land I swore to Abraham, to Isaac and Jacob. Te I did see with your eyes, but you will not come ... " (Deuteronomy)
His grave was never found, but the Christians of Madabastrong> built near here, on Gebel Musa, in the fourth century. A church to remember the figure of the prophet.
The place strikes us immediately for its silence and simplicity.
At the entrance of the avenue leading to the Basilica of Remembrance a memorial recalls the visit of John Paul II in 2000.
E 'here that his work plays Michele Piccirillo, a Franciscan friar, scholar, archaeologist and expert in mosaics, who accompanied the Pope in his visit to the Middle East.
From the top of the hill you can enjoy a splendid view over the Jordan Valley and Dead Sea, opposite to Jericho, Bethlehem and Jerusalem.
Enter the Byzantine basilica of stone and immediately see the extraordinary mosaic.
With scenes of hunting lions, zebras, panthers, bears, ostriches, dromedaries macular elephants: we are faced with a unique artistic, which is also an important historical document on the local flora and fauna and the activities of the inhabitants of the area.
The monks of the church managed to save the mosaic by iconoclastic furies, covering it with a layer of sand and laying it over another mosaic with geometric motifs, which is now hung on the walls of the church.
Only in 1976, thanks to the work of Father Piccirillo, riapparvero ancient mosaics in their unspoiled beauty.
It is hot inside the church (the roof is in Eternit and brothers are waiting for a long time aid for a new cover) and leave again on a natural terrace cooled by the wind, on which stands a bronze monument representing the stick of Moses, wrapped the coils of a cobra.
After a stop in a center of handicrafts (ceramics and beautiful mosaics) in which they work also disadvantaged children, we head toward Madabastrong>, the city of mosaics.
Here, in the Orthodox Church of St. George, admire the unique mosaic map (560 AD) in Palestine.
Originally, the mosaic measuring 15.7 x 5.6 m. and consisted of about five million pieces of stone (not ceramic).
The Map of the Holy Land (including north of the Phoenician Tire and Sidon and south Egypt, between the Mediterranean to the west and the desert to the east) is clearly legible: we recognize the Jordan, the Dead Sea (with fish in the river return back due to high salinity and salt merchants carrying on boats), cities such as Jerusalem, Neapolis (Nablus), Gaza, Kerakstrong>, Jericho ....
We return from the driver and walk the famous Via dei Re, with its 5000 years of history, which follows the path of the biblical Jewish exodus from Egypt and was one of the most important communication of the Middle East.
Lulled by the music fascinating travel over a tortuous road, then Mahdi prepares us for a clever stroke of the stage, inviting us to close our eyes and the reopening of a signal: a spectacular 1000 meter deep gorge opens suddenly before our eyes, is the Wadi Mujib, with its impressive moonscape.
Admiring the Grand Canyon, with its breathtaking views over desolate moors, once we realize the importance of the presence / absence of water and wind for Jordan.
Mahdi makes us listen to music by Battiato: again hit the mark.

"We carry mostly silence and patience.
We along the streets leading the essence. "
F. Battiato La cura

It continues, winding and climbing steep hairpin bends, to Kerakstrong> (950 m.), where the ancient fortress of the Crusaders built by Baldwin, King of Jerusalem in 1132, by order of Pope Urban II.
The stronghold is located in a privileged position from which dominates the entire valley; Kerakstrong> was enriched with the taxes received from the caravan and the pilgrims going to Mecca.
Considered impregnable, it became one of the strengths of the crusader kingdom of Jerusalem, was repeatedly besieged by the Arabs and fell into the hands of Yusuf ibn Ayyub Salah al-Din (Saladin) in 1188.
The name of Kerakstrong> is linked to that of Rinaldo of Chatillon, a martyr for the Christians, the devil for Muslims, a robber-knight taglieggiava to pilgrims between Damascus and Mecca. He was killed at the hands of Saladin who, despite the epithet of "ferocious" with which it is known, was actually a prince mild (it is said that while besieged Kerakstrong>, was informed of a wedding feast that was celebrated in the castle ; Saladin ordered his gunners to not hit the tower where they were housed spouses).
A moat separates the fortress from the city, the walls are impressive, even if they testify in a certain frettolosit&224;; within a labyrinth of corridors, secret passages, rooms with uninterrupted games of lights and shadows.
We continue to travel the Road of Kings, which opens hour over the valleys and the most broad and sweet, and finally arrive in the valley of Petrastrong>, the city of Nabatei.
Stay at Golden Tulip King's way, one of the most recent 4-star hotel, located only 4km from the city of Petrastrong>, on the main road north of the village Wadi Musa, near the spring source made from sticks of Moses the fault of which the Prophet will be sentenced to not enter the Promised Land.
"And Moses raised his hand, beating the rock with the stick and water came out abundantly" (Numbers, 20, 9)

Day 5-Sunday August 8-PETRA

"Petrastrong> is the most beautiful place on earth. Not for its ruins, but for the color of its rocks, all red and black with green stripes and blue, almost small corrugated, and the shapes of its rocks and pinnacles, and for its fantastic gorge, where the spring water flows and that is just large enough for a camel to go. I read a series of descriptions, but these are unable to give an idea completely and I am sure that even I am able to do so. So you you never know what Petrastrong> is in reality, unless you are there in person.
Only images in a boyhood dream of facing immense and sometimes so quiet. "
by T.E. LAWRENCE (Lawrence d 'Arabia), The Seven Pillars of Wisdom

And so we come to the highlight of our trip: Petrastrong>!
The emotions that this legendary city offers can not be sufficiently translated with words and images are imprinted in the memory affastellano disorderly, as if the mind refuses to give order to record impressions and suggestions.
I will as little as possible on the description of the wonders to Petrastrong>, but try not to miss the feeling.
At about 8.30 we depart from to reach the entrance to the site.
Mahdi makes us see the mountains that closed the horizon: on top of the highest mountain, Mount Hor or Gebel Haroun, a white dot indicates the cenotaph of Aaron, brother of Moses, who died for having yielded to the demands idolatrous worship of the golden calf.
Enter the archaeological site and walk down a dusty road, accompanied by demands of drivers of horses, mules and dromedaries that, for some dinars, would ease the way.
But we are prepared to face a hard day and savor every moment.
(A tip: the carriages are to be avoided, are not equipped with shock absorbers and makes the journey an ordeal).
And after a few steps, we begin to encounter the first buildings.
The hidden city of Nabatei located in an area of 9 square kilometers and is situated on a plateau at about 900 meters high, surrounded by high mountains of sandstone, with walls that extend peak for another 300 meters.
The Edom, enemies of the Israelites, were the first inhabitants, hunted then, in 500 BC, by Nabatei, nomadic Bedouins from the Arabian peninsula, who built this place their capital. Strategically located at the crossroads of ancient trade routes (via the famous incense), Petrastrong> was crowded with merchants who transported their goods from Damascus and from Arabia, the Mediterranean and Egypt. With this strategic position the nabatei were thus able to enrich themselves, controlling the routes of the merchants, by charging high tariffs for the passage of caravans and providing resources and supplies to the men and animals for the continuation of their journey.
The rock was not a problem for this population, so that their principal deity, Dushara had symbolized by stone blocks and obelisks still scattered in the siq and some 'everywhere in the city.
In 63 a.C. the Romans tried to conquer the city launched a sudden attack, but they succeeded in their efforts only in 106 AD, when Petrastrong> became a part, seems not to resist the Roman province of Arabia. Despite the nabatea dynasty had become extinct, the local population with the Roman coesistette for over a century. It was then absorbed by the Byzantine Empire, and, dall'ascesa Muslims - with the exception of the short stay of Crusaders who raised fortified guard posts on two peaks of the surroundings - the story is silent on the fate of Petrastrong>, until 1812, when a Anglo-Swiss traveler, JL Burckhardt, heard of an ancient city close impenetrable mountains and decided to go and seek it.
And could speak Arabic well, with name of Sheik Ibrahim and disguised as a Muslim trader, told of having made a vow to Allah to sacrifice a goat at the prophet Aaron, at his grave on top of Gebel Haroun.
With such a history convinced two local residents to guide them through the siq, the narrow gorge with walls a dark peak, large in some points a little more than a meter, which winds for nearly a kilometer and a half blocks between towering red sandstone decorated and carved.
Suddenly, siq emerged from darkness of the first and most sensational monument in the city: the Khazneh, the Treasury.
L&224; Burckhardt drew on his clothes a broad sketch of the building, then made a brief tour around the city and at the fall of darkness, the goat was sacrificed at the feet of the Temple of Aaron.
The diaries of Burckhardt on scoperta Petrastrong> became public only five years after his death in 1822, arousing great outcry especially in England.
Today, Petrastrong> is world heritage, protected by UNESCO.
We are finally at the entrance of the siq, the road winding down slightly, about 1 km long and a half, created by erosion and upheaval in nature (of the Jordan valley is part of the great African tectonic ditch, known as Rift Valley) between two cliffs a high peak up to 200 meters, which leads almost secretly in the city.
Today no longer feel the intense fragrance of incense, cinnamon-tree, the myrrh, which forced merchants to sniff smelly beards of goats to get rid caused by stunning them with aromas of spices, at most there is a sharp wake left by the mules and horses that cross the canyon at times (although it is now forbidden to go back to asses the siq, a boy of the place still manages to evade the rules).
Siq convey it in the winter waters of the Wadi Musa, but, after some incidents (in 1974 twenty-four French and Spanish tourists were overwhelmed by a torrent of rain water) were made appropriate changes.
And that is where Mahdi makes his masterpiece, entering the siq makes us savor the silence, the infinite variations of light and color, the different atmospheres that you breathe, the thousand details that, usually, in anxiety to get to the Treasury are entirely inadvertent and overlooked by most tourists.
Mahdi invites us to follow a relaxed pace, a note with patience and attention the contrasts between light and shadows change the colors ranging from white to pink, all'Arancio, to red, to blue, blue, all'indaco, all'azzurro, to purple, to touch the sand, pleasant to the touch.
Petrastrong> shway shway (slowly, slowly), then.
So we could see the skill with which nabatei through pipes dug into the rock, conveys the precious water to the city, the old pavement, the temples dedicated to gods of stone, the first rock tombs, discover the graffiti, the traces left by man over the centuries: on a wall that seems natural erosion turns out to be rather a large bas-relief, representing a caravan that leads her dromedaries to drink!
Over the minutes the rocks, rich in iron ore, more and more stained ocher of a load, which contrasts wonderfully with the intense blue of the sky above.
And there, with a little imagination, it is easy to imagine a soldier nabateo controlling movements in the siq.
Now the rocks are near the siq and appear almost close to it: it's time for another spell.
Mahdi invites us to hold hands and proceed with closed eyes; excited move, noting (with eyelids lowered) the sudden change of light, and the transition from the silence that enveloped us with sudden animation.

(continued)

Just a few moments and we open our eyes to the blinding light of noon, in front of us, an imposing, the Khasn&233; Firaun, the Treasury of the Pharaoh.
The beautiful facade is entirely carved in stone for 43 meters high and 30 wide.
According to some theories had the function of the royal tomb, but the recent discovery of a series of tombs at the foot of Khasn&233;, makes it more likely the hypothesis that it can be a temple (the current level of the square should be a few meters higher than the original pavement).
It was called "Honey" to an old Bedouin legend that the treasures of the ancient city was hidden box on the top of the monument (which was for a long time target of the shooting of the premises).
In front (temenos?) Tourists, mules, dromedaries, men with the characteristic white head and a square red Bedouin.
A guard at the Treasury, a sentry in uniform Jordanian official.
After we climbed some steps overlooking inside.
We see a completely empty room, perfectly square and cut into the rock, up to fifteen meters in height. On the ceiling, the typical striations of natural colors, is another new black smoke due to the camps of the Bedouin, who used these monuments as homes and places of shelter for animals.
Here probably had access to only the priests who, taking advantage of acoustics of the room that amplify their voices (more Mahdi game), could influence the city's residents.
We come then to the right in the city nabatea, to discover other treasures: natural niches everywhere, temples, temples and tombs cut into the rocks dotting the walls of sandstone, mountains that seem to become liquid at the hot sun, slowly dissolving the architectural elements that adorn; mixtures of colors that seem in harmony produced by a wind combinatore.
The area of the necropolis is dotted with caves carved into the rock with incredible natural striations of color.
A girl from deep blacks eyes beckoned me to move from an opening of a wall: a picture appears in a beautiful and colorful frame.
The child shows some colored pebbles that sought and offers me for a few dinars.
But previously, we had Mahdi please do not buy colored stones, to prevent rapid degradation of the natural environment and we had asked, especially, not to offer money to children to preserve their dignity.
The little girl, disappointed by my refusal, first try to give the stones, then, resigned, accompanies me for a stretch of road.
After admiring the Theater, originally nabateo, then extended and used by the Romans, in which 3000 seats and high buildings unknown function on a relief in front, we rest and eat lunch in the restaurant adjoining the small archaeological museum.
Mahdi proposes an excursion to the Monastery, which will enable us to have an overview of the area.
Then we are going to climb the 800 stairs and stone leading to Deir or Monastery, accompanied by music and zufoli offerings steps by donkey from Bedouin children.
A challenging climb of an hour through beautiful scenery awaits us.
In the case in the shade under tents approximate Bedouin clothes with finely embroidered invite us with dignity, with discretion and without any insistence on watch jewelry for sale on an impromptu feast.
We arrive finally at the top of the mountain where, after a final curve, there appears to 1200 meters in height and almost dall'abbraccio protected the top of the Deir el-Gebel, the imposing facade of the Monastery (size 45 x 50 m.).
Brief stop in a cave-equipped rooms to accommodate those on the summit: we admire the silver Bedouin jewelry (items are coming from the foundation, established by Queen Noor, the protection industry), which are outlined here and on comfortable rugs we rest with mint tea.
Then again we continue to grow until we get right on top for space with his eyes on the tops of the mountains and admire the surrounding canyons and deep valleys.
And it's time to Mahdi, the mystic.
Obtained by us five minutes of perfect silence, during which we hear the voice of the wind whisper and shout obscure messages.

Land of Gibran Kahlil Gibran

"With strength and power emerge from the earth ground,
then the earth moves on the earth with dignity and pride;
and the land rises from the ground palaces for kings,
and high square towers and temples for all,
and weaves bizarre myths, stringent laws and subtle dogmas.
When all this is done, the earth is tired of working the earth,
and its light and darkness creates gray shadow, and sleepy fantasies,
fashionable and dreams.
The sleep of the earth then seduces the heavy eyelids of the earth,
that serrano on all things in a deep and quiet sleep.
And the land called the land, and says:
"Look, I have a womb and a tomb;
womb and tomb I will forever
Yes, even when there are more stars,
and not only until the turn ashes into death. "

Let's go back on our steps, then down the path that is now almost in the shadow, stop occasionally to keep the promises that the purchase had to same.
The road again in the morning, without making the case for fatigue miles pathways (13), reliving the emotions experienced.
We are grateful to Mahdi for the moments that has given us with kindness and attentive participation.
It is precisely after the experience of this day that our group vacation turns into a group linked by bonds of friendship and affinity of feelings.

Day 6-Monday 9 August - PETRA / BEIDE / WADI RUM / DISEH

This morning we head to Beidastrong>, "Little Petrastrong>".
It rises about 4 Km North of Petrastrong>, in 1000 m. altitude, is a popular little bar by mass tourism, but, thanks to its small size, has a surprising charm.
Before getting notice on the left, the village built by the Jordanian government to convince the local population to flee homes in the gorges cut by Petrastrong>.
Most families live with the little that tourism, now much reduced, it can give them.
Mahdi announces us that our visit to Beidastrong> will be gladdened by the company of many children, to our arrival unexpected but very welcome, the square in front of the entrance to the archaeological site quickly comes alive, a guard, however, despite the insistence that the Mahdi is clearly much loved by locals, that prevents us follow the small (some of them, however, later, will see between the rocks).
Even the sandstone walls of the small Petrastrong> are split by a deep and narrow cleft, the siq el-Barid, a move off a little more than two meters.
After this a small narrow valley, and here are the testimonies of the past:
a temple with a staircase that calls to come and triclinium inviting you to rest, another temple with four columns with capitals nabatei (with eagle), the rock that seems to want to incorporate new in itself, a cave, which is accessed by a staircase carved in stone, with a room by the barrel-vaulted painted vine branches, a symbol of luck and abundance.
Everywhere you see the steep stairs leading to the tanks on top: here nabatei had devised a scheme to funnel hardy, exploiting natural cavities, digging many small canals, building wells to collect water ...
A Beidastrong> caravans of the merchants, after the scorching heat of the desert, they could stop and plant the tents, refresh themselves and their animals, here it was sort of spices, before an opportunity to go to Petrastrong>.
An old Bedouin, sitting on the sand, we intones an old song, accompanied by his traditional "Rabab" by the rope.
At the site Bedouin women greet us, hopefully our purchase: buy some cover-masks-face decorated with shells and mirrors.
Meanwhile, children around the guide.
Mahdi on the bus tells the simple and dignified life for these people, their sense of freedom, honor and hospitality, tells of how his little friends keep informed of their progress at school ... then translates for us the Bedouin song:

'It is the sun our strength,
the moon is our beauty,
the desert is our wealth.
Tenda nera,
but white heart.
The color of our blood
is the same as that of sand;
the smell of our coffee
was only rock '

Of course, I can not hold back tears.
Accompanied by unrealistic images of hills and evocative music, we get to
"vast, echeggiante and divine" Wadi rumstrong> (so sir TH Lawrence described it), a wonderful complex geology of the mountains of sandstone and granite, forms and colors overtime.
To our left the famous "Seven pillars of wisdom" from the usual praised Lawrence; El Orense here, as the Arabs called it, used to camp to discuss the plans of revolt against the Turks.
We stop shortly after the village of Bedouin Disehstrong> within the valley, where lunch.
They eat local specialties made of chickpeas, yogourth, couscous, eggplant ... Then we launch into a dance performance, accompanied by the music of waiters improvvisatisi players of drums.
And then out again, where us old jeep in the desert for a hike.
Some of us, to create a standard-Lawrence of Arabia and protect themselves from the dust of the desert, do not hesitate to wrap in white or keffyah area.
Our part in the lead jeep, and now we are in this landscape is difficult to describe: the giant towers, huge sandstone monoliths with the base of granite, which seem to appear from the sand to spell, under the shade of a large acacia a child resting with his flock of goats ...
Go to view, on a huge boulder on the edge of a flat desert, mysterious inscriptions on stone.
Probably indicated the presence of the nomads water nearby, is, in fact, a source (now channeled), attributed to Lawrence, but in reality much older.
Even our driver launches for hidden tracks in the sand, through landscapes that evoke ancient caravan raids and slow the search for a po 'of water.
The ocher slowly turns pink, then orange cargo, almost red.
Descend, passing next to heaps of dark red sand hours; Mahdi gives me a pebble which is derived from "the land of the desert", once used by women as natural fard.
We get to a mountain where we notice a large crack, the presence of a darling ficus tree and other shrubs indicates the presence of safe water.
We will venture inside the narrow canyon and immediately Mahdi us extraordinary graffiti drawings cave: a woman who is expected (on foot, in the manner of the ancient Bedouin), men, animals, imprints of feet (which are to indicate the possibility of stopping ) And, after all, tanks for water.
Other off-road ride and finally stop in front of a scenic and beautiful combination of orange sand live, backed to a wall of stone, which seems to put there to enchant those who venture in this desert.
Let us return then to Petrastrong> with these images in the eye and accept the proposal for Mahdi to relax in a hammam (turkish bath).
We booked the hammam somewhat 'late, and, as a group, enter the calidarium where we are suddenly plunged into a dense cloud of steam and hot water.
Breathe a little 'on fatigue and begin to rid of toxins and accumulated fatigue.
Then in step tepidarium where each of us is literally strigliato first with a glove of horsehair, then soapy foam with olive oil and then rinsed with beneficial and refreshing "bucket" of water.
Finally drawn on marble tables being anointed and massaged nicely; other basin of fresh water on our head and then away, in the next room, wrapped in towel, enjoying a refreshing mint tea.
The experience, very nice indeed, has given us even a moment of embarrassment for switching the electric light, which however has been remedied with more evocative candle flames.
We fail to plan an excursion into the desert at night to assist, on mats laid out, with the natural spectacle of the stars, but does nothing: Mahdi tonight and Victorian are with us in their company and spend the evening pleasantly.

Day 7-Tuesday August 10 - PETRA / DEAD SEA / AMMAN (320 km)

Return the road to the north towards Ammanstrong>.
The road begins slowly to fall, and a brief stop to eat figs and plums bought on the spot, during which we admire a peaceful and lush valley on the border with Israel and then, after several km, we arrive at the sign 's 0 altitude above sea level.
From here on, we descend again, entering the depression of the Dead Sea, announced the first saline.
The Bahar Lot or Lot Sea is about 400 m. below sea level, is approximately 1000 square km, is 65 km long, 16 wide (6 km at its narrowest point), up to 400m deep.
Here stood Sodom and Gomorrah, here the wife of Lot was transformed into a statue of salt for having turned to watch the destruction of cities.
The Dead Sea is actually a huge salt lake, owes its name to the fact that, in view of the salt concentration (three times the average), there is no water in its way of life .. E 'formed by the Jordan River, which enters in the north to get out to the South has no other tributaries and unfortunately the level of the water goes down each year more and more, because of significant evaporation due to high temperatures in the area and more massive withdrawals of water from the Jordan.
Constitutes a natural border with Israel (or better, with the occupied Palestinian territories) and in fact, on the other side of the lake, though veiled by a little 'foggy, we see the hills of Moab, upon which are Jerusalem and Jericho.
On the banks, which are characterized by white salt concretions, spas are emerging that exploit the therapeutic properties of water and mud.
On the way there are some checkpoints: simple controls that are resolved in a few seconds.
We stop at a beach where even consuremo lunch.
It is very hot compared to the rest of the country, then immediately descend on the beach, curious to try
The peculiarity of these waters.
Take a bath in the Dead Sea is a truly unusual: it floats it in any position.
It 'very difficult to swim, the water supports you so that it is as if you were lying on a mattress, you turn hard, it's impossible to try to immerse yourself completely.
Looking around is funny to see how we're all behaving: we allow ourselves to be dragged into an excess of pure and simple fun.
Then overdo we smeared the body with the mud collected on the bottom, hoping to obtain, in minutes, the miraculous effects of an unusual cure for our body.
The temperature is high, the water is very hot, the salt burns on the skin: water lulled us with the impression of being immersed in a primordial soup.
Later, after a large shower, now that no longer even try to keep a decent attitude, let us engage in wild descents on toboggans helical pool.
Towards evening, after a break (a big request) in a manufacturer of beauty products made of salt and mud of the Dead Sea, we return to Ammanstrong>.
We expect a final surprise: instead of the Golden Tulip, while nice, will spend the last night at the Regency (a luxurious 5 stars full of stucco and gilded mirrors, frequented by wealthy Arabs).
By moving the heavy damask curtains of the room decorated in exquisite style empire (WOW!), I look with new eyes the city at dusk will be the strange light of the moment, be aware that we still have a little time to spend in this country, but now I seem to understand much more about the Jordanian land and its people.
Having consumed (un po 'intimidated) a delicious dinner, we decide to rely on Victorian (Meals, you're single!) To grant us one more night in the white city.
A few steps away, we reach a very popular area for young couples and families strolling or sitting outside the many bars in the area.
An inviting music coming from a terrace on the street, it makes us decide to choose a room on the first floor of a building.
Go up some stairs and come across a crowded room: the table, pleasantly entertained by a local singer really prepared, women, men, even children, enjoy drinks and smoke Narghile.
Are placed in a corner: we are the only tourists, many eyes are placed with fake nonchalance about us.
Even we are not less, and with ill-curious, trying to understand the attitudes of the customs of the place.
Many girls are veiled, but many are not, and watching a girl in jeans, but with his head covered by a black veil, which is raging at a rate of a pop melody Eastern dance in a sinuous and compelling, we understand that clothing (veil yes / no) is a subjective choice.
Complice music, let us absorb the special atmosphere we pass each other a cup of coffee flavored with cardamom, a symbol of friendship and conviviality, all'allegria partake of the evening, even fumiamo apple tobacco from Pipette a Narghile (Antonio and Mauro exaggerate and night, are strapazzati from nightmares, the result of unconscious feelings of guilt).

Day 8-Wednesday August 11-AMMAN / MARSA ALAM

Given the bagordi night, we get up with more calm this morning, we meet with Fatma, Chiara, Monica, Antonio and Francesca at 9:30.
With a taxi (3 dinars) reach the lower town, shopping in the suq of Ammanstrong>, which in contrast to other Arab cities, is nothing but a collection of shops (mostly non-tourist) at the sides of roads, near the Roman Theater.
It is this atmosphere tourist is not one we like the place: we are among the few foreigners that wander between shops of fabrics, perfumes, confectioners, tailors, spice stalls, women ex-Iraqi wealthy that stretch of ground mats and merchandise scadente packages of banknotes, with the effigy of Saddam, no longer has any value.
Around noon, with bags from which sprout dalleh coffee beaks of copper and brass pipe Narghile ... go back to the hotel.
Lunch at Al-Hawa Tawaheen Restaurant (try!), Where, under a Bedouin tent-like, we welcome a tasty cuisine.
And then the last trip to take farewell, with nostalgia, from the city of Ammanstrong>.
At one time the city, the ancient Philadelphia, was built on seven hills (Jebel), now employs about a dozen and almost one million and half people (one third of the inhabitants of Jordan).
E 'a city that has developed fairly recently (since 1920), but that still retains traces of its ancient history.
In the highest the Citadel, where you have a wonderful panoramic view on what is not wrong, it is known as the white city.
From the top we all embraced by a vast expanse of houses and huts in white limestone, piled one upon the other, on a hill, stands very high, a huge Jordanian flag in front, on Jebel Ammanstrong>, a beautiful mosque the geometric facade white / black.
We wander among the ruins of the Temple of Hercules, with its three beautiful columns that stand out in the blue sky, we visit the castle omayade with its madrasas (Koranic school) decorated with friezes of wolf teeth, look at the big tank dug in rock, while the call to prayer dell'im&224;m the late afternoon (recorded on disc, but still impressive) see the name of Allah from a mosque to another.
Among the white houses of the poor area of Ammanstrong>, the highlight of a large green park: this is the residence of the ruler, King Adullah II, the beloved son, King Hussein.
A big military plane flies over the sky at low altitude, reminding us that the winds of war blow very close to us, not here, however, where a gentle wind in the upper maintains a kite.
In the nearby Museo Archeologico admire artefacts dating back to neolithic, iron age, period nabateo at age Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and finally Arabs.
Much valuable the Dead Sea Scrolls, discovered in the Dead Sea, which will give surprises to those who in future will focus on their studies.
Then descend to the Lower City, where the monumental greek-Roman Theater, which could accommodate 5000 people.
Short visit and then to the Museum of Folklore and the Popular Tradition, located at the sides of the theater itself surprised us in the face of the beauty of Bedouin jewelry, embroidered clothes patiently, carpets, daggers chiselled, inlaid mother of pearl furniture.
A phone call warning that the aircraft will be established at the airport: there is no more time.
Again quickly in the ways of the bus suq in this morning as we walked quietly; see Mosque in pink and white stone of Hussein, we pass through
new residential areas with dozens of beautiful and spacious villas, all constructed and lined with the elegant limestone quarried from sight to the south of Jordan.
The last picture of Jordan is an image of well-being, order, cleanliness, the hope of a better future for a country, which, among all other Arab countries, is known for the kindness, friendliness, sensitivity, the dignity of his people.
Skip the greetings to Victorian and Mahdi, who made this trip a special experience (there again guys!).
Remain at their tickets with our thoughts, maybe someone will gather, to demonstrate how, in a foreign country, by many considered at risk, we found a friendly country.

Wind of Jordan

The wind from the North and the East,
that brings memories of past times
and harsh messages to its neighbors,
at the same time distant.

The tireless wind,
that plasma and remodels
hidden cities,
between the mysterious stones of the South

The wind load of suggestions,
who whispers words of mystery
on top of mountains and canyons
by changing colors.

The wind helping,
that caresses the skin burning
from the sun in the desert
sandstones of flour.

The wind gentle and kind
the city's white
which supports the top, at sunset,
the kites of children,
messengers of peace.