Suddenly finding ourselves in the middle of Oman...

Ok, this year we decide to choose a journey of savings!
In February it is time to decide on summer holidays: Turkey.
Certainly not our wet dream but you can dive, the landscape is varied and there is more MyAir that brings us to the modest sum of 200 euros per head, then we will move there with a rental car and public transport .. . for this year goes well.
July, two weeks at the start, a friend we call "But you've seen the news? In Venice the MyAir did a great chaos and now seems to want to suspend the license! "
Cosaaaaaaa?? now what?
Found that the company is now gone and the money who knows when they'll see we work on it to find a alternative destination with an airline ticket is not an exaggeration and an environment for us stimolane sick of do-it-yourself ...
Found! Oman .... Geese? But is there really? But is it safe? And what to see in this Oman?
In the evening we collect info (not a lot actually) about this enigmatic destination and book your ticket with the Swiss Air ... Done, Oman!
We turn a bit 'voice, and so also to collect the last one of our fellow travelers and historians without realizing it, suddenly we find ourselves in Oman.

 

Alarm 05:00

Fly from Milan Malpensa Airport with the airline Swiss, with a stopover in Zurich via Dubai.
We left at 10:30 and we set foot on earth Oman at about 23:10.
Again, the flight was excellent, no turbulence, all very quiet and the Swiss is truly a great company, good service and treatment.
As soon as you look out the door of the plane to go down the stairs, the heat affects the Omani side in an almost suffocating; sure everything is emphasized by the air conditioning kept very high on the plane or in general is required to handcuff all premises and whenever you find yourself open at least a minute where you literally miss the air.
At the airport quickly hurry various bureaucratic: for once the line of tourists is very short, about ten people in all, while Oman and people long enough.
There are a lot of info, but there is a bench just inside the airport that apparently seems only a 'bureau de change: instead performs a dual function: they change the money but more importantly pay the entry visa in the country : 15 euros per head. Alexander, our friend and traveling companion, who has advanced a day has paid and paid 6 riyal riyal with us have certainly rounded.
After you go with this small receipt where passport control without having to fill out any paper or card to bring immigration actually seen a month on the passport.
We rented from Italy through TRIFTY a 4500 Toyota 4x4 displacement for a week at a cost of $ 89 per day. Out there waiting for Alexander, already has rental car waiting for us as our "driver" to take us to the hotel.
Reservations by Internet one night at Hotel Delmon apartament priced at 20 rials per room (about 37 €).
The hotel is located about thirty kilometers from the airport and is the first of Muscat.
We have chosen not only for the price quite acceptable (because all the hotels are quite expensive ...) also because it is close to 'Oman DIVE CENTER where we would then go diving.
In the hotel inform us that our room smells too little thinner used to remove stains on the carpet that we could not sleep, then at the same price give us a 'flat with three rooms: bedroom, kitchen and living room ... The hotel is just my impression slightly dated, but clean, therefore recommended for those who do not like too much frills.

Alarm 07:20 hours

Breakfast is included in the price, good call, given the range of choice, but the first day is always difficult to get used to the thought of eating beans or tomatoes at eight in the morning ... then with the passing of the days ...
Our program provides a turn more or less circular arriving for a coastal road to the island of Masirah and then up the other side stopping whenever we wanted.
I state that Lonely Planet is the latest 2008 edition but still refers to 2006-2007 and therefore the data or info were often inaccurate or outdated.
In our mind, reading the guide you imagine a trip worthy of the pioneers of the desert, where he ran the risk of not meeting anyone for a day or unable to find anything to eat and then because of this: away to buy supplies. .. food does not deteriorate quickly and give that power in case of hunger, etc ... etc ...
In Muscat and outskirts there are many shops and supermarkets ... there is no difficulty to find what you need.
Since our idea is to sleep in tents (both to save but also to try some real adventure, feel free ...) Alexander, who now call Alle, bought a nice tent igloo two people at a cost of 14 rials (25 €), is probably not true in the lead but Italy has not spent even a kg of madness and saved the plane.
My advice: if you want to take a tent camping once you arrive, you're not worrying about Italy, everything found in Muscat. We have brought a tent about 2 kg backpack and here we bought the mattress only, paid 6.5 rials ... then leave or give away ....
After we leave all our purchases towards Sur with some stages along the way ...
The road is very beautiful, has just been built but lacks information ... sometimes we get lost and then find the way ... all part of the journey.
It 's already afternoon before we go to camp for the night and we see Dibaba dolines BIMMAH.
The Lonely speaks of it as a non-reported and difficult to find .. now is exactly the opposite ... there are signs in both Arabic and English ...
This is a large puddle of brackish water about 40 meters by 20 meters, the water is really crystal clear, the only negative overbuilding that was taken around to descend the side of the pond now there are concrete steps that certainly easier to make the descent or ascent ... but I lost much of its charm.
The water colors are really beautiful, have done to get fifty more concrete steps ...
Everything is inside a park with the possibility of a picnic.
Visiting all takes less than thirty minutes.
Now we have to find a place to camp ... try one that seems suitable for a beach, because until a few km before there were only sand instead of pebbles.
Near the small village of FINS start small sand dunes: the area seems good.
With our 4x4 we approach the selected area .. Good, we decide that we spend the night between two dunes to be a little sheltered from the wind.
Fit the two tents quickly a ride along the beach and then eat a little something from our stores.
In a flash of energy, we also collect firewood to light a small bonfire.
All very new to us and the idea of being free to sleep wherever, together, more importantly, the idea of security that you breathe, makes us happy.

Alarm 07:10 hours

The cool breeze of the night before it stopped suddenly ... we woke up in the tent that lacked air.
I left the tent hoping that my new life to a walk on the beach a bit, but already seven o'clock the situation was quite heavy, not a pro and is already hot.
A few photos to tracks or trails left by the various best to hermit crabs on the sand all night, I gather, did not do is go back and forth, up and down the various small sand dunes. Dismantle our mini camp and head.
We are headed to Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi.
The road is still good, are not always able or want to keep the beautiful highway of new construction and allow ourselves some road or off the track, but nothing special.
Find directions and reach the beginning of Wadi faster.
The first is that we reach Wadi Shab:
The source of water that form allows the transformation of the landscape in a total of dry and arid to green and alive.
The water flows when the surface creates lakes with beautiful colors, sometimes flowing in the ground and he sees only the result thanks to the green of the palms and vegetation.
After the first pictures we enter in hopes of finding something special: a village or crops ... We walked for over an hour on a difficult path ahead and not even talking about the Lonely hidden villages, we do not just managed to find the entrance ...
We were satisfied only by the colors of water and rocks around us ..
They say that after you reach a cave with a waterfall where you can swim, but we have given up before.
And 'true every time you walk in the shade of the rocks, but for those not used to it all is a good test.
There are now ten and the sun beats bad.
Continue for another Wadi Wadi Tiwi.
I'm really close, we read that the wadi can also travel by car: too hot to walk out there, but we do not want to be too many tourists at all costs and impose our wishes to them that are the hosts.
We approach as possible to the wadi and the village and begin our hike on foot.
It seems bigger and more beautiful ... some kids take a bath ... ask us if we have the leadership ... no, we tourists do it yourself and then ask him if we can continue to visit Wadi car: no problem ...
We follow other cars that climb up the mountain, as if to check the source of the wadi ... the road gets worse and since we do not know what'll eventually give up our mountain patrol.
Instead enter in Tiwi, the country that bears the name of river.
And 'perched atop a hill and it seems very small, we do not find anything to photograph.
All are very nice, we also salute all the builders intent on building a wall, we also salute the kids in front of the mosque.
Passing by a house, we greeted and invited to enter a young girl who provides us with coffee and dates, and explains that his dream has just finished school as a secretary and wants to come to Italy, but his father does not have enough money. .. i could work a bank in Dubai or Muscat but she is a girl and you can not stray too far from home.
However all women of the house even though they remain slightly hidden are very kind and we also offer orange juice.
It 'nice to see how they can match their tradition with progress: they live next to a wadi, but have air conditioning, internet, etc. ...
He shows us pictures of the torrential rains that have been in June, taking pictures with the phone and then downloaded to your computer with bluetooth ...
It 'an incredible thing, the house perched on a mountain and the sixteen year old girl is more technological than me.
Thank you very much and we continue our journey towards Sur.
We arrive in Sur with the blazing sun over our heads, wander a bit to figure out how to orient ourselves in this city.
We do not find many people around, there are at least forty degrees.
We follow the info of the lonely and we stop to eat at Zaki Restaurant located between the Roundabout Roundabout 3 and 4 next to the BP service station.
We enter the room and we do accommodate families, women do not eat with the men if not with their husbands.
We order Chinese food in Italy I'd say spring rolls with chicken and rice with vegetables and chicken Cantonese Diego ... more innovative eating mutton stew ...
While waiting I took advantage for a few toiletries, the bad side of the nomad camp is that you have a bath as a reference point ... so how do you do when you want or need (........) words you understand or you simply want to freshen up?
Live at the Gypsy for a few days, using the bathrooms of the restaurants or galleys.

COUNCIL *** Before choosing the solution campsite think what you are adaptable: you would be willing to make a hole in the sand and lay down your organic waste such as turtles will lay their eggs?
We have abandoned us for a swim in the sea salt because we would stay on until the next day ... and maybe we've given up a fabulous snorkeling.
I think if I went back to Oman would opt for a hotel anyway even if the cheapest.

Ok, after this digression I return to my story, we stopped by Zaki: if you happen to go there in the area: great food, abundant portions so that we are repenting of having ordered two dishes ... but six courses and three natural fruit juices and we have spent 9.3 rial in three (16 €)
There is an excessive heat and once outside the restaurant we try to wander around the car to do some photos and decide to visit the fort called
SUNAYSILAH CASTLE pay 0.5 rials per person for a visit .... we come from and enjoy a beautiful view from the city, but the fort is completely rebuilt, the ancient remains standing only a wall and loses all his charm ...

There is very hot and quickly drive back ... slightly change the program and because tomorrow we will enter the desert and we do not know what you find, the better to enjoy a night in a hotel for a shower and gather info on how to see the turtles .. .
The Lonely tells us that in Sur there are only three hotels: one a price on board, and we head straight to where to that lonely Sur Hotel also organizes excursions for turtles. Hopefully, you can either take that trip to be able to sleep at bargain ...
The guy at the reception desk is priced at 30 rials for a double to go down then up to 20 ...
and we arrange excursions to see the turtles for 25 rials in three departing at 19:30, by calculating a two hour drive there and back.
We are hesitant: ask to see the rooms:
Are somewhat neglected and cleaning does not reign supreme, we agreed to 10 rials, but the offer is not worth that price. Refuse!
Before long the road I saw a sign with the signs of a 'hotel, try to find them and then follow them and find an aparthotel which inspires us a lot, almost 100 meters from the Sur Hotel. This is the AL-JUMHOUR HOTEL APARTMENTS (968-25544414 www.Sur-inn.com)
The smell of detergent makes us feel as we move immediately to skin a positive feeling,
asks us to 20 rials, but the rooms are of two spans above, clean tidy with basic comfort.
Accepted! Speak basic English like ours but also ask for turtles:
tell us that we can do alone, paying only the taxes of 3-rials each.
And even more beautiful we should not take that night where you start and finish at nine o'clock to one o'clock or two o'clock (it depends on the turtle: the time to understand that there are dangers on the beach, choose the right place where do the hole digging and then begin to lay eggs ....) but he is better than the four which then see a few turtles and also see the sunrise over the sea and with a more favorable light also have hope to take some pictures.
Accepted, figuring that we sleep much more and that is all there in the street according to our program then advances to come and go but one way.
Ok, skip dinner, eating something from our stores and we close in the room.
Meet At two thirty in the car.

Alarm 02:10

This trip marked the alarm started early, for one reason or another, but this beats all the alarm.
We are all three point and we are already half past two in the car ready to reach our destination.
Thank mentally the type of the hotel that we patiently drew the map to reach the research center of the turtles, in fact we note that once you reach the junction RAS TO RAS AL Hadd Jinzo is not the slightest indication that any kind of face even think about which way to go or where to turn ...

*** TIP: Find good and do not think that is a famous destination in the country and then will be full of 'signs.
In all the roads we have traveled the signs were very low or barely enough ... it's all under construction and most likely between a 'whole year will be much better ...
I believe that Oman is a country in constant change and development done by people who really want to work for his country.

We return to us, we use an hour to reach the center, we are not the only ones we are about thirty people.
We pay 3 rials head and wait ...
At four o'clock we start: the guide us all recommendations are possible: silence, stay together and be careful where you put your feet.
We walk for about twenty minutes and we are beginning beach: the two guides tell us to wait their turn in search of turtles with a small battery.
They call us and see the first turtle intent to cover the hole where he laid her eggs.
It 's really great, too bad the little light ... everyone is trying to take pictures but the flash rightly prohibited. The guides are severe enough and after two or three flash fleeing begin to confiscate cameras or mobile phones.
We then divide into small groups and we are moving slowly toward another turtle, maybe a little belated and are still intent on laying eggs.
It 's really a beautiful emotion, a little sorry to bother you, guides us to all stand behind her and point the battery on his back, trying to give you less trouble.
All this takes another twenty minutes ... in the meantime the sun begins to rise and all the shadows are starting to become more defined shapes.
The beach lies surrounded by rocks that reach the sea, a beautiful landscape and for a moment the dawn steals the show with turtles.
The sun rises quickly and from half past five we see very well ... wherever there are holes covered and although we can not turn freely on the beach you look around, see more sand per hour rise in the distance, meaning that around us are other turtles that are covering her eggs, another has finished and goes quickly to the sea.
Magnificent, seems to be in a documentary.
Fortune of fortunes we also see three turtles that are coming out of their hole.
Only this feeling is worth the trip !!!!!!!!
How small :-) I read it later that when they open, exactly sixty days after the eggs have been laid, using three to five days to climb to the surface.
Weigh about fifteen grams and about how much effort they do to get out of the hole dug by their mother.
Then we complicate everything: walking back and forth to find the best location for the picture of life, but leaving footprints in the sand and holes for them are gigantic.
Two somersaults after so much effort and some can reach the beach and then be transported by sea, the third is reversed and no longer able to turn around now ... exhausted intervenes and takes the lead in bringing the beach too ... disappears in the waves.
It 'a shame to know that a hundred eggs laid at most one or two reach adulthood.
The turtle that had just arrived was still spawning now after about two hours of effort spent to thoroughly cover the hole (to protect the eggs from various animals and why eggs should have the right temperature, time worn and weary heads for the sea and very little time is refreshed and clean all the sand from the first wave that meets and immediately disappears from view.

*** TIP:
I think the advice you gave us the type of hotel was very valuable, therefore I recommend a visit of more than four of the nine. You in your favor the sunrise and all seem more bello.E 'true to have this incredible touch with nature you must make a small sacrifice, but I think it is amply rewarded by the emotions you feel. Recommend it .++++

Around half past six we return to the center and continue our journey.
Luckily we have our food supplies because a bar where breakfast is quite complicated.
We do not spend the big city and we are content, happy to live the reality of the country where we are guests.
Our destination is the island of Masirah and decide to get and stay on the coast despite having to traverse a part of the desert. According to the info we've collected a few had to be a slightly complicated trip, where they were needed reserves of water and food ...
Also this time the edition of the Lonely is overtaken by the rapid transformation of Oman.
At intervals along the new highway that cuts through the desert and at other times we spend on the beaten track that joins.
It 's a beautiful desert dunes, although not very high, wherever there are men at work, with their blue-collar stand on the yellow desert.
They work with devotion even in the hot sun of midday, take the sand from a dune on the road to bring it to the pavements, other watering the sand to make it more compact, etc. ... are incredible ...
We have air conditioned car almost up and they are in the middle of the desert with blazing sun to build a road.
In about three hours we are taking a route we thought of having to make many more hours, if not before next year everything will be even easier.
We are looking for a place to eat, we are in Mouth (honestly I have not found traces on lonely existence in this country, so I hope you wrote her name ...
and are more or less the same old things: rice with chicken or fish, noodles with chicken or fish ... chicken breast in a skillet or pan fish.
Eat anyway and spend 7.4 rials all three.
There are about three in the afternoon and hot part there is not much to see, decide to grant an afternoon sea looking for a beautiful beach with its place where you can pitch the tents.
We arrive at the beach whose sand desert in the distance ... we see the wood and straw huts built by the various fishermen believe even when the area is completely deserted ... no soul.
Great place we will not bother anybody and nobody will give us.
One of these abandoned huts will give us the right shade this afternoon burning.
Reached the shore we discovered the ugliest of images that sometimes dart still like flash in my eyes ... First the sea is nothing that the second and the beach is long km is full of dead turtles.
The first and second think they are returned to their old place of birth to die ... but walking (just to try to understand or to make us more evil) are in every dimension than thirty cm of small and very large over feet ... some are almost completely decomposed and others are almost intact ... even the shell ... we also decomposes many bones and skeletons, indicating that something is going on for some time ... we also find fish and lengths of various breeds during decomposition ... we arrived on the beach of death!
What a contrast we reach the beach of life, and this morning we saw the emergence of three turtles and this evening I see death at least forty. It 'awful! We would like to understand the cause, but we do not know who to our questions.
While we are in the shade hut rented a car we see coming in our direction ... just go over and back ... down two men who very clearly have come to control who we are and besides chatting tell us that the hut is a few guys ... ok we're leaving tomorrow ... people seem quiet but I liked a lot more to know that no one knew of our existence ... my night in a tent will be a constant drowsiness, intimidated by thought of the return of those men who knows these things for us ...
But as you can see nobody has returned ...
All afternoon and night and pulled a gale, a little less evil 'the hut and the machine gave a little' protection.

Wake up 6:30 am

Folded our tents and head to the port where ferries depart course ... we have no idea the time they leave ... with a very basic English and many gestures we understand that the ferry was already docked with six cars board will leave only when full ...
expect about two hours and then set sail. The fare is 10 rials per car.
We see first Bedouin women running with their faces covered by their typical mask bit ... (see photo).
The journey takes just over an hour and everyone sits in their car.
I call the ferry boat but do not expect Italian and more like what we would call an old boat used to transport goods or old iron, but floats and leads us to the shore so it's good.
We came to this island which is described by our two guides like heaven ...
The lonely describes the interior littered with palm trees and fringed with beautiful sandy beaches, the coast is patrolled by countless flamingos, herons and oystercatchers.
The shells of Masirah are unrivaled in terms of variety ...
Only a few lines make him want to reach ques'isola, then if we add that the guide goes on to say that the island is internationally known for its turtles, each year 30 million individuals reached the beach to lay their eggs .
Packed Masirah port is paying 8.3 rials in total for the usual rice and usually fish ...
We head straight to the beach in the northwest reported from driving ... sorry but what has become of all the palm trees? Birds? And the beautiful sandy beaches?
Everything around us is desert rock ... ask any fisherman who literally speak a word of English ... but we do not understand any particular destination in ...
We are disappointed to 100% turn with the car but we do not find anything like what we have been described.
We also find here the abandoned huts and take refuge in the shadow of one of these ... read ... relax and walks on the beach in kilometers ... not bad but nothing special.
Seeking extraordinary shells ... there are very few and nothing very special.
The sun beats but is ventilated so we're fine, we would also like to swim but then where wash? The thought of staying with him until the next night up there brakes ... here again the downside of free camping.
At sunset we return to town to do some 'picture ... all at sunset leave their homes and the country at two in the afternoon seems to desert comes alive with men sitting in groups in front of their homes or places of meeting, women with their kids full of masks and more energy that is unleashed game ....
Before total darkness seek the place where the tents ... and we choose an inexperienced real close to the beach in the open space more open and free as possible.
The wind will make them impossible to sleep at night so that the two Diego forced me to remove the curtain that without us would be flown inside and sleep in the car.
We learned the next time check at least one shelter and closed at least one side.

Request: if anyone has been or will go on to Masirah island and is concordant with the guides and found the turtles can advise us? I would rodermi the liver for being so close to heaven and not finding the door. Thanks to those who write to me to give me another view of Masirah !!!!!!!!!!!

Alarm 06:15

At half past six we are already removing the field and at half past seven we harbor
There are at least three ferries and one is almost full, we can embark and fifteen minutes after we leave. Always pay the usual 10 rials.

Hours are 9:15 to earth.
Roll back the desert road, in our return journey we stop for some pictures and to 'lunchtime struggled to find a decent restaurant and our fees decency are not very high, are still on the way an Indian restaurant where we can not communicate in any way lead us in the kitchen ... and we lift the covers of the four pots and try to mimic ... we choose to ask whether or not it is very spicy but without a positive result ... hopefully good. ..
Diego is very happy with his choice, a bit less ... I'd like to go in the bathroom because it is almost not a day that I see one, and Diego is a guinea pig before me, his response is: horrible bathroom, groped in another area!
Fortunately the petrol station where we have a bathroom and took advantage passable.
Following the advice of the guide now disheartened we head towards Al-MINITRIB should be a small village situated on the edge of the dunes used as a starting point for excursions into the desert the Sharqiya Sands
We stop about 10 miles from THE MINITRIB preferring to spend the night in the desert but not in a hotel room: we have dinner and sleep in QUABIL TO REST HOUSE
We are negotiating in low season and choose a double room with bath for 25 rials a night.
Bath liberating that never ends.
We ask to arrange a ride on a camel in the desert at dusk or dawn ... we know that this guest house is connected to a camp in the desert: AL-ARESH DESERT CAMP
(Www.desert-discovery.com tours@omantel.net.om)
A bad season because everything is closed and did not even really want to find something on the sly ...
We try to go it alone, we head towards the desert, well find someone with the camel who wants to take a penny ...
The first closed near the tented camp tells us one hour camel 20 rials per head, mentally we refuse to spend a sum like that. Okay thanks for the information we think ...
We meet lots of pens with camels people who work there, go straight to the source, perhaps the price is lower ...
We find a bunch of guys with even their leader, do not speak English and the dictionary and lots of gestures reach tuning: what we and they think you understand.
Tomorrow we introduce the six-hour pay 4 rials. Too good!
Have dinner at the restaurant, everything normal.

Alarm 05:25 hours

At six in the place of yesterday we found no one, only camels but there is no soul .. we see another group nearby with people already in work and restart the drawing yesterday ... we have a walk five to ten minutes around like you do with children on ponies ... and again with the dictionary and manage contracts for the desert ... we do not reach a fair price and give up.
Since the temperature is high we decided to delve a little bit alone in the desert to climb the dunes are beautiful ... un'arancione of fire as high as thirty, fifty yards ... on a dune climb and then a ' other hoping to get a better view of the desert but after climbing what seems the highest dune dunes .... you see once more the never ending story and I give up .... we did some nice photos and memories then we met.
Now we have the breakfast.
Muscat tomorrow because we start towards ending the week of our car and then we return the car.
We arrive at lunch time and go in the area called Muscat Ruwi.
Choose an Indian restaurant where I eat and the usual rice and Diego, the sperimantatore the tiny company, choose what they would be roast meat and instead came in his flat where as the onion stew made from the master and you had to look in the flesh tomato sauce. He could not eat it.
Then we visit the area outside the mosque and then we head towards the old city of Muscat and the Corniche.
We visit the Sultan Palace (the palace of the sultan) very beautiful even though you see only from outside because his actual residence.
Then the photograph that there are strong in the area wander around the city, also give shelter from the heat in the local fastfood 'N' JUICE CENTRE that serves excellent fresh fruit juices.
Before the sun sets we find a decent place to pitch your tent for the last time.
The Judas tells us wanting even scuba diving where we want to book you can pitch a tent.
Ok think of killing two birds with one stone: book the diving and then the tent.
The diving is one who speaks Italian quite well and when we ask for advice on where to pitch a tent: anywhere but here! Ok once again proves to be a lonely dead weight in your backpack.
Tells us to go to the beach behind them at Bandar Jissah (the beach to that lonely beach is also called Qantab)
It 's the most beautiful beach we saw the beginning of our trip, it strikes us now is a beach surrounded by rocks where you see the famous arch of the marine area.
The children of the area are ready with their boats to take you for a pittance in other beaches or snorkelling in places off the early morning or see dolphins.
Being surrounded by rocks is a great place to pitch the tents.
While most people expect to come home we also make our first encounters with other Italians on holiday in Oman.
James and Helen are a couple with whom then will share the same hotel in the first place and therefore an afternoon boating or cadge a ride in a car, have lunch and supper together when our programs and their cross. Hello hello guys ok?
Diego and make the bathroom and then remove the salt water with the donut spare that tomorrow is no longer needed.
We camp and in the light of the torch eat all the leftovers of our food supply: tuna with chickpeas and potatoes for the last time.
It is really good, even the climate is ideal.

Alarm 05:40 hours

We wake up just in time to watch the sun rise ... we bring our backpacks Hotel Delmon and eight are ready to visit the fish market.
It 'full of people selling and buying ... of people whose sole job is to clean up the fish you just bought ... we will not be brazen to shoot anyone, we respect their work but each time we ask to take a picture there is always granted permission.
The souk at Mutrah begins to animate from ten am on ...
Before handing the car we decided to visit the Grand Mosque.
Are very strict on dress and eventually I (female) the only one who gets let go: the chickens have forgotten that in Bermuda ... I do not enter into long sleeves and long trousers with a shawl on her head by (honestly I had a huge shawl, and having the hair on the back could be glimpsed a few strands here and has ... the guard called the veil a woman to settle in the same way that lead them ... Ok we respect their I think.
Mosque inside is very nice, especially for lighting, and famous for the world's largest carpet, but in some areas is covered with a blue tarpaulin to allow tourists to be able to trample on us (even barefoot) the blue cloth devalue very carpet.

Then we deliver the car at the airport and take advantage given the time to eat in different restaurants: I eat a pizza margherita, I would say good!
Now we walk and take a taxi to the hotel Delmon pay the official rate of 8 rials in three.

C'incrociamo hotel entrance with James and Helen, and the four decide to go to the beach for a ride with the local boys.
10 rials to bring us to a nearby beach deserted and very beautiful, white sand and water a nice color ... but the underwater visibility is poor and do not see many fish.
Together we go downtown at night and try as local restaurants, getting out of mass, we stop at a small restaurant run by Egyptians and eat fish and grilled vegetables, pay 6 rials each.

Tomorrow we collapse from sleep the bus leaving at 6:15 for DUBAI

Alarm 06:00 am

The bus to Muscat part on time and in just over an hour we arrive at the customs of the Emirates, and we go down the exit stamp in the passport.
Shortly after soldiers always make us get off the Emirates with all the luggage for the control with the drug dog. Smoothly for all, we can continue.
We arrive after a quarter of an hour Omani border and find that we redo the entry visa to enter Oman and repay six rials each. That stress ...
The trip goes well and time arrival in the city.
All lasted less than six hours.
Today is Friday and then celebrate the Muslim countries, Ramadan begins tomorrow in more so now almost all closed and double party for all Omani Muslims.
With a taxi at the hotel, where we had left the heavy backpacks before leaving for Dubai.
Everything perfect give us the same apartment with two bedrooms and a kitchen area plus a nice big living room with satellite TV, the cost of two small rooms we managed to stay really comfortable and well. The apartment costs 40 rials.
We ask the hotel to help us hire a car for all the little movements that we do these days.
Rent a limousine for 10 rials a day. It is not a bad thing, leading to the hotel and come to retrieve them.
Handle all the formalities, we hunt a good sleep, forcing us to wake up in the evening to go for a ride to the souks of Muscat.
We arrive and are all in full swing in full swing and since it is full of local party even more than other days.
Diego Alexander want to buy the symbol of Oman: the dagger!
Suq as we have already seen those in Egypt and Morocco ... this is a particular souk ...
sometimes you can not tell if it's junk, antiques or new things but kept very badly ... you have to look good ... ask and negotiate.
I still liked it because they breathe more air of a souk to shop, they are not intrusive or stressful to the bone, then decide to contract and then give up the contract, not get angry.
But beware that if you make an offer and this is accepted but you refuse: you are in the wrong!
Diego Alexander running six or seven "shops" ask, seek to understand the difference between the plastic handle and one in camel bone, between the processing machine made silver and one made by hand ... I think I understand. .. choose and make their offer is accepted ...:
40 rials to head ... In the end you're always wondering who's made a business? Then you're sure they always know what they were doing.
In addition to the traditional Omani dagger are pashimine, headgear type Omani and Arab with a turban, many Lanyard or bracelets or pendants in silver, plus we sell all kinds of incense and perfume ... plus their clothes and bags ...
We thought it was bigger but still worth to spend some time depending on how it v'inspira.
For dinner we return to the same place where we got the juice last Monday afternoon is just to the left of the souq and the tables outside where he also noted the passage, but since it is very hot we prefer to dine inside in air conditioning.
We take what we call the kebab while they called shawarna or a very similar name and a juice-head ... little one is quite good as a sandwich but, wishing I can also go ...
Then straight to bed, tomorrow as usual, there is the alarm early.

Alarm 07:10 hours

Ramadan began today: we wonder how this will affect our habits:
While respecting the freedom of religion and thought, now we understand that we will limit a lot ... as I will explain why.
Sure maybe next year when planning our holiday we will also consider whether to go in a Muslim country or not ... because there will still Ramadan in August.
First, we can no longer eat breakfast at the restaurant but only in the room, so you call first and ask for breakfast, but now we can not choose what to eat: they all agree and then we are faced with beans and sauce mixture, a dish made of watermelon, orange and tomato and cucumber ... just bring us the coffee and that I'm used to drink tea.
Let us have no great problems we start at eight for our dives.
We chose to use a diving Nosy Tuors and that is a ten minute drive from our hotel: Oman DIVE CENTER. (Www.omandivecenter.com info@omandivecenter.com)
I am very honest and warn that there is now Under good visibility for snorkeling obviate the need to throw away 15 rials, however we decide to dip: the sea is always ready to surprise.
Use a boat that would define yacht, very beautiful, with great possibility of showers and two bathrooms.
The mezzanine tables and two sofas allow for bags to keep dry and away from equipment diving.
Most important: the bigger, the less you feel seasick.
There are eight divers plus two guides, we divide into two groups ...
We do the first dive: beautiful but very suspension and a visibility of up to five meters. Water is not hot as we imagined is about 24 degrees.
Pause in a quiet bay about an hour where despite Ramadan gives us apples and cookies.
Second dive with slightly less visibility, both are pretty much see some fish and turtle ....------------------------------
The two returned to diving after washing and all the equipment we are out from the resort.
Problem where to eat: all restaurants are closed normal.
Previously we had seen the advertising to a branch of Pizza Hut where you bring the pizza at home: the number and try to see a series of coincidences that is on the same street of our hotel: how lucky ... double fortune are open: Take three large pizzas (that greedy) and something to drink and so in the room.
As we eat about half (at the end skip dinner because full and tired and we will also follow the noon meal). We amortized the money spent since the pizza is of course more expensive.
The rest is a must after diving.
At seven we are again ready to go out we head towards what appears to be the largest shopping mall in Muscat on Carrefuor.
Of course after those in Dubai this looks like a miniature.
The guys still try to compare the prices of things technological: TVs, DVD players, mobile cameras and lenses for: no cost or convenience as by us or maybe more.
We have a lot of clothes shops and clothing typical example: an entire store just as blacks and garment covers only difference embroidery on the sleeves or the veil ... does something to see a single color throughout the store and more black.
I could not ask and hence to understand why women are dressed all in black and white ... all men is a kind of dilemma.
We're not hungry, and thus come relatively early to the hotel to sleep.

Alarm 07:30 am

Today day without commitments: Alessandro plane tonight .. we had lots of ideas on what to do: travel to the islands Daimaynt ... visit the city of Nizwa, etc. ... but with a 'plane to take you stay in the area to prevent any unexpected events.
We wake up early to catch the boat and the fishermen can go see the dolphins ...
We arrive at the beach and there is literally Quantb soul .. all are gone!
I remembered having read in the Lonely beach snorkelling in the area where you can see seahorses (my dream!) But I can not remember the name and we have no guide with us ...
We have a flash of inspiration: we ask the diving as is the beach after:
Hermes, a boy who speaks Italian (a native of Salerno, but born in Switzerland ...) explains that for Ramadan now there are more boats because it is forbidden to be in costume on the beach or drink in public. Here's another thing that weighs enough of Ramadan: no more beach and is forbidden to eat or drink in public.
The only wise thing is to pay 1.5 rials head and stop within the resort could use their services. Accepted.
There are about ten and I try to put me on the couch to rest or read a bit, there's very very hot and can not stand in water is another thing you can regenerate a bit.
There are many small fish and I can also see a kind of medium that is hidden in the sand.
We spent the day at the beach, eating in secret pieces of pizza that were there yesterday afternoon and snorkel done well.
Low tide and the pier this morning where there were at least three feet of water now lies on the sand. And the two Platax (beautiful fish) that were below where they go?
We walk a bit and then swim for an hour amid the coral is starting to live and see many beautiful fish of all time ... and we also see a small turtle that rests amid the coral. We see a cuttlefish and anyway in this stretch of sea life there is a lot even if the majority of fish do not have any colors that stand out immediately evident as in other seas.
At six in the hotel we are ready to leave the apartment for us to move to a single rooms with double bed and Alexander ready for the final destination airport.
We have dinner at the airport by making the latest company ... see you in Italy.

Alarm 07:20 hours
We take breakfast in your room and before we go out as they usually do: all the leftovers out of the door, on a table in a sort of public seating.
We plan two dives on Sunday I asked to see the seahorse: soon find out if I was satisfied.
Today we are ten divers with a guide alone speaks only English and German Americanized.
Some good soul I translate?
We do not use the boat that big but fast: much smaller and uncomfortable because of the Ramadan period in their work only five hours and then we have to make do as we can.
We continue to grow in love Ramadan.
Today the sea is calm and warm, there are about 30-32 degrees: how nice.
The termoclimo is very high, even at twelve, thirteen feet feel the cold water.
Visibility is good and I can also see the second sea horse in my life. (The first I saw snorkeling a decade ago in Corfu in Greece.)
E 'in its classic position, anchored by the tail with a rope around him and a lion fish.
There is also a beautiful picture because we are among the first to see him, always comes after someone accidentally moves a sea of sand, making it impossible for each photo.
But we realize that our camera has problems: it has formed a sort of fog in front of the lens and then hello hello ... damn!
We break into another bay with a white sand beach and beautiful clear water and then we are ready for the second dive: looking for sharks.
The grounds are beautiful, filled with every type of coral, from hard to soft ones.
We see the clownfish defend their home, many lion fish and moray eels leopard of all sizes.
In some nests if they see two: a head to the right and one left to defend the territory.
Here are some nudibranch tiny shrimp and even smaller.
And in the end when we now see two safety stop lemon sharks that swim about two meters in the middle of a shoal of fish.
Fine diving.
Again we are down to two and after the usual cleaning equipment go to the hotel.
Are still eating exactly where I left: ok for Ramadan not you make the rooms, but at least collect the leftovers before they start to stink I think the minimum.
So their problems are out of our room.
Eat a little of what I had kept in the fridge the morning breakfast: fresh fruit and bread with two cheeses. Shower and rest.
We rise the sun has gone down for the joy of all Muslims.
We go out as a shopping destination as described in the Lonely better to buy local crafts and souvenirs: the SABC CENTER Qurm.
Troubled to see him now and when we have surrendered before we find him there.
It is not great and is good quality stuff, better placed in the suq, for prices depends on what you buy.
In less than an hour you turn around.
In our search we found a restaurant mentioned in the Lonely: The Automatic Restaurant with traditional cuisine and Lebanese. Accepted the challenge.
Let's try some typical appetizer: a sauce made of beans and yoghurt and another that was to include eggplant, but do not recognize the taste.
Then I take a soup with cream of chicken and chicken grilled boneless, Diego instead eats a mix of grilled meat. They also make fresh fruit juices.
Very good and we spend 9 rials in two.
Cooked immediately re-enter and half past ten sleep bad.

Wake up 6:00 am
We arrange it for breakfast with some cookies and some juice.
Leftovers for breakfast the day before are still on the table.
So much work just because of Ramadan: I can understand the ordinary people but who runs a Hotel should find a compromise.
I'm not saying deny the faith, but to recruit Chinese or Indian who profess other faiths can work a Pelino more.
Meanwhile we do our own beds, saving on the towels (must last three days) and I alone take toilet paper from the Scatolini that are around.
But the money they want all or Ramadan prevents him from taking them?
Aside from the humorous characters have an appointment to diving for six forty-five: destination Dayniamat
And we are all on time, we start at seven with the speed boat.
Takes about a hour to get to the first dive site: the aquarium.
We are at sea, the blue c'immergiamo although we can always see the bottom at a maximum depth of twenty meters.
Last week saw the whale shark but today the sea is fairly rough, and then struggled a bit 'in all species dressing like me who suffers from seasickness.
It 'nice to know that beneath everything is quiet.
C'immergiamo and the site remains in effect his name, you are literally surrounded by thousands of fish of all types and varieties, not to mention the size.
We see the eagle swim elegantly, and then the barracuda, a huge fish in the distance and the phrase thousands of fish is sufficient to describe the whole.
Of course we all hope in the great meeting for me and Diego would be the third encounter with the whale shark, but as we told our dive master: WHERE WE WOULD LIKE TO GO AND WHERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS.
Today, the swell has penalized.
Even the lift boat was a bit difficult and sometimes have been submerged by the waves in the water while I waited for the others suffer less seasick on that boat.
Let us then we stop at a bay near the island that appears with bare rocks arid but with small sandy beaches that contrast with the green water seems a blinding white.
Two people who seem at first sight of the bandits approached us to see if diving is allowed to dive.
Unbelievable, even in the middle of nowhere are to control.
For the second dive we throw ourselves into the open sea and then swim towards the bay and re-emerge where the sea is calm.
The sea continues to fidget, be quick to dive in quickly and get the four to five meters to find peace in the area someone runs a small risk of being tossed by the waves into the rocks ... but all is well and we do under a 'another beautiful dive.
Very quiet, the guide told us there are three or four times to make sure you have not lost anyone.
We suffered huge lobster in a cave even after they see the other but only partially because the rest of the body is in a hole or cave.
We see here and has many turtles in a really big ... we see races of all sizes still hidden in the sand and then swim with their calm when we arrived in search of a more peaceful place. A race has been to two meters.
In addition we see in both diving all types of hard coral from those soft, with various colors and shapes.
Only regret that the machine has continued to tarnish these problems and we could not capture it all in decent manner.
But our eyes will remember him!
Return to diving is proving really hard, we employ almost three hours to return, we thoroughly washed by the waves over and over again ... take back to the cask is not indifferent because of the jump of the boat but everything happens with a lot of resignation from all of us and counting slowly passing minute, hoping to see as quickly as possible a glimpse of the coast.

*** TIP: If you are traveling free instead of staying in Muscat as a bed and then you more than an hour for the purple islands of advice is get as close as possible to the islands by land and then dive from there.
Us on a guide in English that we saw in front of the islands is a resort diving course ... we suffer less to get ... and certainly spend less.
If you ever come back to Oman will definitely like this.

Skip lunch and just relaxing at the hotel for shower and bed to recover lost energy.
Our breakfast the day before is still on the table and since starting to have a certain smell and decided to dare move out of our space in the plane between the stairs and elevator.
I hope some good soul with a minimum of the ports want to work on.
We are woken by the muezzin who calls everyone to prayer, the sun has gone down and everyone can come out. Life begins and everyone is happy.
We head back to the souq after seeing the Al Bustan area where there is what the lonely defines the most luxurious hotel in the Middle East.
But we will limit ourselves to look at from afar, we are not attracted to the Al Bustan cement free ... sure is not free but is always a concrete building that ruins the landscape, at least for us.
The souq are practically empty on Friday that it was their Sunday, and day dress, you could not walk and breathe a lot of people there. Today we are almost the only tourists.
They are all very kind, and invite us to come to our sweet refusal do not insist a second time.
We know what we want and so we are very direct: Alexander asked me to buy six of turtles less gaudy (impossible task) are all stained with fake diamonds on the carapace and the back opens to store medicines.
I want to see who instead of going around with a box turtle as a pill ...
but since I bought in Dubai camels pill are not very free speech.
Smaller sell them for two rials, since it includes eight treat, they make the last offer to 12 rials we shoot all ten and then we'll go.
Let us go ... this is repeated twice ...
since the expense is not for me to prefer prompting At sms.
However for once the lonely right: in the suq haggling is a must but you will never have the great discounts.
We deal in a 'bazaar for other trinkets of silver, to give something different.
Struggled a bit to find the right price for us and for them.
Rial fault that is not favorable ... all doubles.
We eat fast food again in the juice to the left of the suq
In bed dead tired and sad because this is our last night in Oman.

Ironically, today is the day that really engagements of the day doing what you think and sleep all you want ... now both hear the alarm clock at half past five muezing about ..
Diego is then returned to bed and pull out half asleep until about nine o'clock, I do not take more sleep ... I do alzerei but then what? I do not want to disturb Diego in the one morning that she can sleep with ... are beginning to read at seven o'clock I take the computer and start writing your diary ...
At nine telephone breakfast we call for a cup of tea and coffee, scrambled eggs
wuster and small ... we have the usual waitress a bit dizzy in there and I never told you but we will remember ... save us my tea with milk powder and the same purpose for coffee Diego to My only request of tea without milk party to speak in bursts and then says goodbye and leaves ...
Although I do not speak English I realized that I will not see my simple tea. Patience.
We prepare the backpacks, trying to fix everything in a logical spread.
We know that it's very hot outside and we have no hurry to leave ...
We have two goals: to return to the souq to buy turtles to return to Alexander and diving to buy T-shirts such as diving and gift ... and use the opportunity to dine in the restaurant closed.
Once again, the souq is empty and quiet, go direct to the shop the night before, try asking the type 15 rials, I watch it a little wrong and he does the same money the night before: go for 12 rials for eight turtles do not even try to argue ...
Outside there is a large but there is also un'afa sun and humidity that make you go all desire.
We go direct to the diving: what a beautiful air-conditioned.
You can safely eat at the restaurant and not have to pay even if permission if you eat them or diving.
It is not extremely economical but the portions are plentiful ... Diego took the prawns grilled: really big and great.
A good meal to round off our trip.
We spend the afternoon in the room to do what we want, at least we are cool ... at eight
is to pick the type of car and takes us to the airport.
The 23:40 flight via Dubai to Zurich with change.
Arrival at Milan for 08:40.