The road to Syria and Jordan. Motorhome trip to the Middle East. Part 5, Syria

This trip was not to be done. This year Tina, my wife had a big problem with the teeth, operations, medications and a variety of applications, so a problem that had lasted over time and with a substantial cost. The dentist came to my aid, and between a transaction and another had to spend at least 60 days, just long enough to make this trip by his friend Lawrence asked about the Desert Club last minute Tina has agreed to place, and we started.
The trip, departing from Ancona April 30 begins with a ferry that will take us to Patras and from there, through Greece and Turkey will reach Syria and then Jordan, our main goals. In return, the crossing will be shipping from Cesme in Turkey with more landing in Ancona on May 10 and then journey's end.

These are our costs of travel:

Medicines and vaccines € 162
Maps and guide € 61
Mechanical preparation camper € 290
Phone € 50
Food € 548
Fuel € 944
Tipping € 65
Highway € 55
Entry sites and museums € 160
Parking € 32
Stamp passports € 80
Souvenir € 255
Restaurant € 455
Newspapers € 40
Bar € 60

Total € 3237

Quota Club Desert ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... ... .... € 3133

Total ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... € 6370

 

Damascus – New Kaboun Camping – Gps N 33° 31,781 E 36° 21,889

Depart 8 am, taking the road back. This evening we will be in Damascus, we hope to finish this time in a beautiful campground.
Before the border, supplies oil to Syria because we do not know when we will find another fuel. He spent the last Syrian pounds in a yard full of shops. Unfortunately at the time of departure, the No. 2 have the unexpected inclusion of the alarm that prevents him from setting in motion (probably the engine has cooled and has unlocked the unit) but after several attempts, the engine turns on.
Now we are in Al-Ramtha on the border with Syria and we are waiting for the bureaucracy, as in all the customs, we must continue on.
Finally, at 16, officially re-enter Syria. Saman but we do not review a new guide named Aziz. We head to Damascus on a beautiful highway with good bottom. Before the city, we stop for expenditures in a supermarket: the Town Center. Toviamo all, as we have in Italy. Filled refrigerators and off again to reach the campsite. After several miles, the No. 1 admits he had the wrong road. It makes U-turn and returns to Damascus (10 km, but said he had already done this around 11 times ????). Finally we arrive at the parking lot where we remain disappointed at the beginning. We entered a narrow street that looks like a rubbish dump where we find the great sign "Camping". We enter a gate and we are surprised. It 'a large lawn with plants, there are already two camper with open canopy and people lying comfortably in the sun. A little 'luck, finally. Wishful thinking because our space is very limited: three feet between a camper and another where open windows without touching a problem. General disappointment while someone sketches a critique that is immediately silenced by the No. 1 thing that I believe that right and that's okay.
For tomorrow, we do not know what will. Tina, the most brazen of the group, takes courage and must consult the No. 1 for the time of the bus. Answer: from 8.30 to 8.45. As you dine? Answer: He will take the kebab, devil take the hindmost.

Damascus – New Kaboun Camping – Gps N 33° 31,781 E 36° 21,889

Damascus is the capital of Syria. Post town at 600 mt. Altitude has long been considered the "Paradise of the Middle East" thanks to its mild climate and temperate. It has many streams that are passing by and is surrounded by hills.
So let's start with a bus for our visit to the city. After a short ride we arrive at the National Museum of Damascus. The facade of the museum is the reconstruction of the castle in the desert QSAR al-Hair al-Gharbi in a few ruins remain. And the decoration of this facade are the remnants of the original ones found in the vicinity of the castle. In this museum there are many relics of the history of the Middle East. Some rooms contain artifacts Hittites, for example the city of Mari, where are the beautiful statues of alabaster. In the hall of Ebla are several clay tablets with cuneiform writing. It 'also a piece of lapis lazuli comes from Madagascar. In these rooms you can also admire the small hollow cylinder in the center, so as to become small rollers, engraved with various designs and inscriptions. These cylinders were merely that the seals were rolled on clay soft post to seal such container of tablets written in a way that leaves embossed design engraved on the cylinder. In general, the museum is very nice and ranges over a much wider historical and art of many cultures: Arabic, Hittite, Phoenician, Egyptian, greek and Roman, Byzantine and Jewish. Exiting the museum after lunch in the old town and a walk around, visit the palace of Pasha Azem, turkish governor of Damascus. The palace is divided into various rooms where one side were women and other men. There are the apartments of the wives, the mothers-always Pasha of Pasha. The reason for the presence of mothers-in-the apartments is explained by the fact that the wives of the Pasha could never leave the building and then once a year, the bride's mother visited him. Left the building before arriving at the Umayyad Mosque we stop to visit an old railway station, very beautiful and special.
After you cross the Souq al-Hamidiye where we find the usual shops and lots of dirt.
Before the visit to the mosque we stopped in an alley, where, in a tiny galley of kebab. I eat sitting on chairs in the middle of the lane, we find it very good, perhaps because we are hungry.
The mosque was commissioned and created in 705 dCdal Caliph al-Walid ibn Abdul Malik to enhance the power of the new dynasty and wanted to be as grand and shining in the Middle Ages considered the eighth wonder of the world. The work lasted about ten years. Entering into the vastness of the courtyard through the gate of Paradise can be seen immediately the elegance of the double row of arches that makes the marble facing of a white dazzling shine. There is also a "minbar", the equivalent of our pulpit, beautifully carved.
He returns to the souk and visit a shop recommended by No. 1. Tina Takes a towel to save the sofa with nail sketch, which will replace the amount taken in Iran.
Continue for a visit to a home of a pacha governor of Damascus: the house of Al-'Azem, sumptuous palace, with rooms for every occasion and for every wife.
Now we crossed on foot throughout Damascus. You had to visit the Jewish quarter, but without any explanation is only through the Christian quarter. We see a series of alleys and dirty with no appeal and while we are waiting for the bus that will take us back to the campsite in a nearby cafe enjoying a cool drink.
With the bus climbs a hill to see the city from above, and although the bulk is modern, is always a beautiful spectacle.
Upon returning to camp, see you besieged by 21 campers CC Italy, already found in a previous stop. They have gone after us, and fall before but could not see anything we have seen why we make of the highlights of our long and travel so it is only a "tour de force."

Damascus – New Kaboun Camping – Gps N 33° 31,781 E 36° 21,889

Today should be a day of rest. Unfortunately, the camper needs cleaned up, not outside because I have water and gear you need (I'll do it at home), but inside. First floor mats, full of sand and dust, then the sofas and armchairs to be brushed with a small vacuum cleaner, then the arrangement of lockers, so a little 'of a general nature. I think I'll be busy all morning.
Many, with the taxi, returned to Damascus. At noon lunch with the No. 1 and No. 9: a plate of pasta, cheese and the usual Refosco / Coca Cola.
In the evening, a participant in the other group, presents us with a little magic show, very simple but fun that makes us spend a couple of hours in joy.

Parking Hotel Krak des Chevaliers

At 7.30 depart friends of CC Italy, heading for the border to return home. We follow at 8.30, but to continue our journey.
We come then to Hama for a short visit. We see the famous "Norie" which are enormous wheels used to bring water in aqueducts Orontes for later use them for irrigation of fields and gardens. The name of these wheels is derived from the Arabic word that indicates the sound created when several women who talk to each other, just like the sound of "Norie" during their rotation.
Then we move towards the Crak dei Cavalieri, near Homs, one of the finest crusader castles in the world. One of the many castles and fortresses built by the Crusaders in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as a formidable defensive line that was pushed by Syria to the Gulf of Aqaba and the Red Sea. This, in particular, became the most powerful stronghold of the Middle East, ruled by the Knights of St. John.
We reach the fort through a narrow lane, winding and very steep and it is better not to look out the window to see how little the wheels of the vehicle separate from the overhang.
You tried to stop at the car park of the castle, hindered by the many tourist buses arrived before us, and then you go directly to the hotel car park that will host for the night, where there is no power but in return there pipe for water.
Walking back to the castle for the visit.
The fortress is prestigious and huge. It ends with the magical impression back from the contrast of those dazzling images of white stone that time and the sun had burnished and dark, scary, jet-black lava rock. On the one hand a sense of admiration for what he recalls a powerful line of defense and the other, an uneasy anxiety: the idea that these gigantic towers that are crumbling under the clear sky of the East and are restored to the tourists, have been immense works insanely useless.
The inner part, well preserved, one can admire the various local stables, housing, kitchens, storerooms, warehouses used by someone who was in the defense of this fortress.
Before visiting the castle, the No. 1 has warned that a tank would come for the fueling of diesel. Unfortunately, the tankers can not get to the parking lot, but we can go down to a distributor in the country. Crew complains and does not want to repeat again the road is very bad and steep. The No. 1 rightly scolds and advises you to fill up when there is the possibility, or we may stop for lack of fuel. Unfortunately, then, continues with words that have bothered everyone with this warning: "will not be more interested in diesel fuel for everyone, but would only think about their needs and we we should have put the code we saw passing kilometer from distributors open. This then has not come true but it was better he had not made this tirade misplaced.
In the evening, back harmony, has dined at the restaurant to roast chicken and chips, good and cheap.
The No. 5 punctured again and so now has no spare tire, tomorrow we must surely provide.

Ugarit

Departure at 9 to Ugarit. Along the road near Thartous we stop along the sea to give time at No. 5 to repair a tire. He has been offered to buy a new pair at a price of € 110, but he needs only one and did not accept. At that price, I would have accepted.
Once in Ugarit, parked in the parking lot in front of the site.
Visit to this city, ancient capital Syrophoenician called Ras Shamrah because of the widespread presence of wild fennel. The findings of the finds of extraordinary workmanship were added to the Syrians and the museums of the Louvre. In the archives of the city politicians have been found thousands of tablets with cuneiform inscriptions relating to events of the XV-XVII century BC The language of these texts are written is the current state of our knowledge, the oldest alphabetic languages of the world.
In the area there are no stones to build cities, so any of them have been transported from far away and were only used for the base of the wall only 1 m or more. Beyond the meter has been used sun-dried mud and straw, with time then this part is broken, leaving us only the remains very low. We shot a lot, seeing little, and only with the descriptions of Aziz could imagine the splendor of this city.
In the evening dinner at a restaurant located across the parking lot where we finally enjoyed a great fish grilled with the usual creams and vegetables, all very good and well cooked. Sketch also had his share and has very welcome.
A quiet night and cool enough to turn on the heating.

Apamea

On a very bad road, narrow, badly paved, with curves and counter to reach the parking lot of a restaurant where you can go no farther. Three buses will take us to the castle of Saladin, on a road much uglier, much closer and much more steep and with drivers a bit 'crazy and senseless.
Saladin's castle is a fortress under the cross which is about 24 km. east of Lattakia. Arab sources mentioning for the first time a fort near the present town of al-Haffa in 975, when the Byzantine Emperor John I tore it to Tzimiskis Hamdanid of Aleppo and made it into the outpost in Syria. In 1188 Saladin moved from Laodicea and, after a bombardment that lasted three days, captured the castle. Count Robert of Saone, which was currently the owner, was taken prisoner and brought to Damascus was executed. E 'sensational especially its location. Take up an immense rocky ridge through the woods with a broad view on the Mediterranean coast. Is reached by driving u
no narrow canyon by man. It was the Crusaders to excavate the slope of the hill for defensive purposes and the place was chosen for its proximity to the main communication route between Lattakia and Aleppo. Within the complex rise buildings Byzantines, Franks and Muslims. It recognizes the el'hamman Muslim mosque, baths and the Byzantine church of the Crusaders. The moat that protects it is 28 meters deep. and 18 wide. To the left of the stele still existed that supported the drawbridge. Very beautiful and interesting, although some renovation, but the visible part is still intact.
Come back to the camper we are offered diesel smuggling, not more than 20 liters per person, but someone took advantage and others will remain without.
We head towards the city of Apamea. Along the way Aziz, invites us to take a tea at his house 17 campers in this village created a stir and a lot of curiosity. Dozens of children surround our means, parents and sisters of Aziz welcome us with big smiles. Our guide has 11 siblings (5 males and 7 females), and in that house in the green are the parents and two sisters. After the greetings must go on.
Along the eastern edge of the Orontes valley, about fifty miles north-west from the city of Hama, surprisingly, a vision of a dream scene of a dazzling plateau. Are the columns of Apamea, one of the most noble and famous in the ancient world. You stop, you try to count them, but the calculation can not ever, are too many, and you can not embrace them separately with their eyes all together. Are deployed for two miles in two parallel, perfectly straight, distant from each other just under 40 meters. A few ruins in the world are so grand and solemn. One can not but think that fourteen centuries have passed in a flash.
You can say that it was the city of Apamea philosophers. We are facing one of the most important archaeological sites of the Middle East, and, because of the excavations still in progress, only part of the colonnaded street has been restored. Apamea was built by Seleucus I Nicator in 300 BC who gave the name of the wife of Persian origin. On the hill of the citadel, already inhabited in prehistoric times, was built the Acropolis. The city was given an octagonal structure typically Hellenistic later maintained by the Romans and Byzantines. Before long Apamea became one of the most important centers of the kingdom
We park in a square in front of the ruins, Aziz takes us on this visit assisted initially by the keeper of the site, who speaks fluent Italian. It 'almost sunset when I manage to photograph the sun descends in the ruins in a unique show.

Truck parking on Turkish border

At the start the police tell us that there is a distributor in the country and open with their presence we appear to refuel, but only those who did not have the 20 liters last time, will fill up.
Now it goes to Ebla, the last city to visit. There is another, called the dead city and ask to visit someone in the group, but the No. 1, while ahead of schedule, refuses.
On this site of Ebla has no columns to be admired, the city is too old and was built with mud brick, which mostly were pulverized with time, but it's actually see, indeed, to imagine a city that size, built 4500 years ago . And also, seeing these ruins, we could understand the excitement experienced by archaeologists in their search for antiquities.
Disappointed to have seen little or nothing of what remains of this great city, we close the trip to Syria back to the border, toward Turkey.
Lengthy process on the Syrian border, then he starts for the no man's land to Turkey. We pass a long line of trucks stopped without understanding why, but we understand at once when, after a curve, we see the street interrupted by an articulated vehicle with the load of a self-propelled crane that moved him and three other cranes are fixed. We stopped for about three hours because more than half stopped, another column in the opposite direction is firm like us. We see campers and shortly afterwards received a visit from friends who were with us in the journey to Egypt last year. Exchange of news and greetings, gift them my tanks empty, very useful for the precarious supply in Syria. During the forced break we have dinner: noodles with fish sauce. Just finished feel that you call the engines in motion, I move straight to the driver's seat and the other half on the asphalt on dirt we can pass between the parked truck and camper with our friends. Turkish to the border where we'll undertake the usual bureaucratic delays that leave us free only to 22.30. Stop at the parking Tir the first leg.

Continue on "The road to Syria and Jordan, Part Six"