A journey across the Balkans to reach the fascinating Turkey

Wonderful trip in a motorhome, with friends. Cappadocia is one of those places to see at least once in their lifetime.

 

BACKGROUND: The idea of this trip has been launched for the first time since Eve while we were on our way back from Russia last summer.
At first there was not much conviction but slowly, reading the diaries of the other campers we decided on an adventure.
After the tough trip to Russia last summer, our group was formed by chance proved to be compact and coherent, fully confirming the statement that the diary had closed last year and that is that the best thing of that ' experience the friendship was born among us.
Adventure we will be attending:
Aurelio and Eve with their Giottiline Carmignano, Arnaldo and Gabriella Milan with their Elanagh, John and Dona in Rome with their Hymer and finally Ivan and Ali (the writer) with David and Zara trusts (German Shepherd) in Genoa on Moncayo 773 . When we are in Antalya and we will be joined by Francesco Alessandra, too, of Genoa, which will join the group for a tour in Cappadocia and Istanbul from where breakdowns in the air, this year unfortunately did not have enough time to come with their Himer.
The meeting place is Gorizia Saturday, August 14 in the evening, arriving in random order, like last year, going to work that morning so I guess we will be the last to reach the area stop.
The rough itinerary is as follows: Gorizia, Belgrade, Sofia, Edirne, Turkey's Mediterranean tour, Cappadocia Tour, Hattusa, Istanbul, always returning via the Balkans. Time estimated four weeks from 14 August to 12 September. Make the journey, then counterclockwise, leaving Istanbul for last.
We relied on Vivicamper guide, which describes exactly the route that interests us, although in the opposite direction to the site to find Eurocamping campsites from which to stay overnight. We know that there will be problems in Istanbul due to the closure of the structures found there, we are aware of an area with no facilities at which to stop and we hope that in Belgrade and Sofia campsites mentioned are active.
From June 25 to 27, the entire group ended up in Genoa to finalize travel arrangements. We thank Ms Anna Vivicamper that the guide gave us the hints we have just contacted by mail and the Sig.Cingil Cappadocia in which we organize your stay in place allowing us to not have to move the camper visits to various sites. During this meeting we also examined the alternative to the route by sea, but the savings are really relevant if not non-existent and you would lose the least we can see by land. We have drawn up a shopping list that you will pay each camper, as we have the tradition of making a big dinner table common, while lunch is eaten something quickly or if you travel around when we visit the various places. The fresh on site and there bought it often takes away the satisfaction of tasting the local specialties of which we have heard many good things.
Being a large group we also have insurance for a period of 30 days with Europ Assistance, which will cover any medical expenses, since there is no healthcare agreement between Italy and Turkey, of course we hope that money to the wind but we feel more relaxed way.
'Nuff said then, we load the supplies that we plan and warms the engines ...................
August 14, 2010
Unfortunately, the devil put his paw, Eva and Aurelius, who were the instigators of this trip will be. Serious family reasons forced them to surrender. We are all very sorry to have to give up their company, and they are morally very close.
These are the 13 and head west to Genoa Gorizia, time does not help us.
Since this morning, it pours heavily, and this situation will be with us all the way by slowing down enough. Traffic is sometimes argued but we did not code. We come to the area located between Via Gorizia stop Oriani and Virgil Avenue that's almost 20, our traveling companions were already waiting for us, is a real pleasure to see them! This area is very well maintained and free, close to the center, we went to a pizzeria where we had a wonderful, also prepare the pizza with pesto, the Genoese to be a challenge, we've tried and I must say that is good!
Tomorrow morning we start early, we will be running for 6.30 and then to bed early.

Sunday, August 15
The alarm did not sound when needed! We'll be ready in time. Today we have a long way to go in front and two borders, the goal is at the Belgrade Camping Dunav in Zemun (a suburb of Belgrade).
The rest area of Gorizia is almost one kilometer. from the border is crossed with a solution of continuity in the city, you realize that just because you see the sign and beyond the writing of this change language.
We put in the E70 highway that will take us to Bulgaria.
In Slovenia you must buy a vignette, there is weekly or monthly. We took the latter, there will also be used for the return journey. The highway winds along very well maintained landscapes and mountain meadows, beautiful villages on well-kept homes suggest that people should have a decent standard of living. The transition from Slovenia to Croatia is through the border since Croatia is not part of the European Union, here as we move away from Slovenia is noted that the situation is more deteriorated. They meet notorious names such as Sarajevo and Banja Luka. We arrive at the border of Serbia that is lunchtime, we're lucky the tail is minimal. We pass after a quick check of the documents, there are no control of the media and do not even ask for the documents of Zadar. It will be so for all of us, just ask if we Dona group and where we go, when they hear that we're headed in Turkey we do best!
We arrived in Belgrade, Zemun contrary to around 15, finding the camping Dunav is a business. The address is on some sites is totally unreliable, do not go to Cara Dusana 49 because there is no camping. When you get into Cara Dusana you have to turn left where there is a garden center, then continue a few kilometers you will find a small sign "Autocamp Dunav" of them turn right on a paved road and after about 1 km you arrive. The campsite is very basic, the services are those that are but the only one in the area. In three to 20 euro a night we spent with the electricity that has served us very much for ......... climate is very hot!
We did the usual table and even to bed early tonight, tomorrow we expect Sofia, another border and the road that we know to be the best.

Monday, August 16
The night was not the best, we have perhaps made a nonsense of choosing the locations nearest exit to the bar in front of the campsite. A French company, very well stuffed full of beer, has made us partakers of their talk and laughter late into the night until the patience of Arna and John is not over .......
We start early in the direction of Sofia, it travels well, the suburbs of Belgrade is sad and large residential buildings along the way alternating fields and woods without anything particularly noteworthy.
We arrive at the border with Bulgaria, which is almost lunch time, we have a dozen cars in front of us, a customs officer sees the campers and beckons us to move forward and, quickly scan the documents and proceed towards the barrier Bulgaria. We read with great care and a kind of disinfectant bath to which it subjects the means, it is no longer in force, they controlled only the documents and possession of a green card in five minutes we were out all three. Once in Sofia, where we planned to stop, we decide to continue with a single tug to Edirne. The shortest route takes us through the border with Greece we spend five minutes without the usual queues at all and then Turkey where we use a few more minutes for the registration of campers on the passports of drivers.
We go to Edirne, which is getting dark, the muezzin is calling to prayer, we admire the first mosque! The city is very nice, there are some very scenic round, I always envied the French envy hours even Turkish ones!
Finally found the Camp Grande Omur (GPS N 41.62018 ° E 26.6394 °)
the lady who runs it is very nice and helpful even if only speaks German, to spend € 17 two-man crew, three of us who are with Zara € 25.
The day was so tiring to bed soon after a quick dinner begins .... the torment of mosquitoes .......
Tuesday, August 17
Up to date have been stages of pure transfer, today is the beginning instead of the true revolution. We start around 9 from Edirne to Gelibolu where we will embark to cross the Dardanelles. When we arrive at the port the sailors Tugging on the ferry to get us quickly that we are fortunate to have caught at the right time. We spend 37 lit (Turkish lira) per camper that is about 50 € in total.
The crossing is quiet and lasts about twenty minutes. The master, happy to have us on board brings us to the bridge, telling us a lot of things. On disembarking we care going to change the euros with the Turkish lira. The value is about half and then just under 2 pounds per 1 euro.
We arrive at Troy (Truva) at lunchtime, are now camping we had chosen, "Troia Pension and Camping" (GPS N 39 ° 57'22''E26 ° 15'1'').
The place is very nice and very kind and helpful managers, the archaeological site is located about 500 meters from the campsite.
Since it is very hot, 41 degrees, we agree that a ride with a bus cost us around 7 lit. The entrance to the site costs 15 lit, of course, what you see is nothing sensational, the ruins are not spectacular like some of those other sites, but we are happy to have been in the city made famous by 'Homer's Iliad and truthful or the story is fantastic, it's still nice to be able to say that he modeled his footsteps above those of Achilles! Come back, buy two bags, one for me and one to give away, tonight we will dine at the restaurant of the campsite.
The dinner at the home of the campsite restaurant was really good, we were served a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, followed by a plate with meat balls, rice, eggplant and potatoes that did raise the dead and finally the fresh watermelon.
The night was not quiet at all, for a long time we heard a drum sound that came and went no one knows how, then at the dawn we were awakened with a start from the muezzin who screamed with all the breath in his body, the dogs barked ..... well never mind .....
Since we started we were awake early at a time of Pergamon.
Wednesday, August 18
We arrived at Pergamon in the morning and we visited the ruins of the city that was on the hill overlooking the modern Bergama.
We decided to avoid the visit all'Asklepeion because we were exhausted by the heat, we do a couple of sandwiches and leave again to Ephesus.
We noticed that the road that runs from Edirne is all in the process of doubling with great works which will make the best of a highway.
The highway will take it anyway for a long stretch until Selkuc, pay the toll unexpectedly three Turkish lira (ie € 1.5) incredible .....
In Ephesus we now camping, we decided to take half a day of rest at sea, the excavation will go tomorrow morning hoping to visit with a temperature of more human than yesterday at Pergamon.
The campsite is the stage where we did Dereli, nice and the sea.
The beach is sandy and rough sea makes the water clear.
We do, however, a refreshing bath, hot water is very much like swimming and Zara also with David.
We dine under the eucalyptus trees, the mosquitoes torment us (which pizza .... Are massacred despite Autan). Quiet night and very hot, we thank the moment we decided to mount the air conditioner.

Thursday, August 19
The site of Ephesus is great at the car park and leave the camper in the shade of eucalyptus trees, zara today will bring with us, we will leave to guard with a 12volt fan on and under the shade of trees. One of the nice things about this holiday is the fact that Zara has always been well accepted by all parties including the beach. Our questions if we could bring it there has always been answered
"But of course!"
We do carry high entry, in order to face down the visit, the horse carriage, and we have spent 30 lit a coach.
The coachman takes us also to see the cave of the Seven Sleepers, a site where legend has it that seven Christians were walled up, and these came out two centuries later. There he built a place of worship and burial.
The ticket costs at the site of Ephesus 20lit and decides to exercise the aid of a guide since there are many things to see and only one is likely to be dispersed.
The guide will cost 40 € to pay directly to him, is a man who speaks anzianotto nice and discreet and well-understood Italian.
With him, we follow a path that lets us see all things more interesting. The city is divided into three main parts, the high-rise where they had all the complex administrative and government with the beautiful theater Odeon, then beautiful route through a given column reached the city in the middle seat of the social life of Ephesus, with its shops and the great Library of Celsus, the third of the ancient world after Alexandria and Pergamum. Finally, the lower part of the city that was adjacent to the port with great public theater (the Odeon was reserved for dignitaries and nobles). The tour ends back at the camper and not without buying the beautiful peaches and figs, sweet-eating for lunch.
Forget visiting the ruins of the temple of Artemis because the heat is becoming unbearable, you well over 40 °.

We share in the direction of Bodrum where we will stop at the camping places in Gumbet Zetas, the place is very nice has a nice beach but very crowded, so zara no bathroom even if the manager tells us that we can.
We leave the shade of eucalyptus with the air conditioner at full blast and give us a refreshing swim. The campsite is discreet, the use of umbrellas and wicker chairs all made with their mattress is FREE, which is absolutely unthinkable to us where they make you pay for what you do not even damage. Gianni has a problem with campers and must seek a mechanic and then we will stop all day tomorrow.
After dinner, take a ride to the town of Gumbet where is the camping and curiosity shops, I also teach me to my employees what they do here ..... do not make time to get closer to a window that now someone ...... you into a slingshot for people like us have habits Nordic, this behavior leaves something 'forbidden. Even when they saw along the way to get our camper column of people waving from the banks to make us stop to buy their products, on two occasions we did buying melons, water melons and figs all excellent and very good price.
Friday, August 20
While John and Dona went to a mechanic with the camper for a few days ago a little noise at all reassuring, we lie-in, prepared the fruit for lunch and wrote this diary.
Once back together (without having been able to conclude anything) we went and did it again to the sea for a swim. Today, when the temperature will be slightly less than boiling (which deluded ...), we're going to visit Bodrum and its castle.
We took one of those coaches called dolmus paying € 2.50 per person, inside there is a hellishly hot, the thermometer marked 43 °, we look forward to fall. We need to change the euro so we ran into a bank, the wait is long but thankfully there is air conditioning and this allows us to cool off a little 'heat. The town is very pretty and lively, full of shops, you see that is the traditional place of fashionable sea. Moored in the harbor are many sailing ships and yachts of remarkable stature. We drive along the quay with a visit to the castle that we visited and that hosts the Museum of Archaeology sub watery.
Admission is the usual 10 lit (I would say that is a unified tariff with some exceptions) per person, it is worth to spend them all is very nice and good looking. From the castle there is also a splendid view across the bay.
Returning to camp we stop at the fruit market, there's a guy who speaks a little 'in Italian and is happy to sell his fruit and the peppers will do that tonight with the fusilli.
Invite the operator to the campsite for dinner, who welcomes us and tells a lot about eating habits and life of the place and we also has a camper in Istanbul that gives us some tips on things to see and that his nephew called to ask the His willingness to help out.
We are very surprised as the warmth and friendliness of the Turks who have lavished more than when we had a problem or request.

Saturday, August 21
We start early to Pammukale, when we are about twenty miles from the destination satellite sends us straight on a dirt road with the result that I'm paranoid. We'll find out later that they were not alone in this!
After wandering back and forth to see as you enter the camping Sehyr, a clerk kicks it to show the entry.

Here too it is very hot, the guides, however, advised him to bring the entry up and visit the site down, the campsite to find a taxi that takes us to 10 lit.
The entrance ticket costs the usual 10 lit for the tanks and another 10 for the archaeological site of Hierapolis. This is extremely disappointing, only a small part of it is excavated, the museum of the sarcophagi can be visited only by paying an extra ticket and we believe it is not worth.
They allow us to see the old tanks are beautiful but to access them to swim you have to pay another 25 lit per person (for two hours). So we decided to get off the famous castle of cotton, the choice is very apt!
You can only go barefoot to avoid damaging the concretions of limestone, to bathe in these pools is a pleasant thing, we are very good rub with the clay on the bottom ........ think that the same treatment in a health club does a bang! We wallow for hours in this water-natural spa until sunset when the dazzling white limestone turns orange and the water that falls turns into a flow of gold. It 'a show not to be missed!!
At camp we meet a group of 16 campers who travel organized by an Italian tour operator, they've been to Istanbul to London Camping, then there exists! We also tell them that he had made the dirt road, a group of chirps that was a trifle compared to 600 km that had faced the year before going to Samarkand.
Sunday, August 22
We had scheduled a stop in two days to visit Hierapolis and Pammukale but since I go for a swim in the old pool should not only charge admission to them, but also pay the entry to the entire site, run screaming! Our destination is the camping Kas Olympos. We get there in the early afternoon after crossing a large plateau at 1450 meters altitude. We buy, along the way, at the usual banquet, which lie on the road, cucumbers, tomatoes and melons. We stop at one of the many fountains to stock up on fresh water, nearby there is a seller of roasted chicken. Dona is a bit 'skeptical about the degree of cooking the same but will have to think again.
We stop for lunch along the way, brushing all the chickens in a moment (and there were ....), shortly after a picturesque local family stops next to us and begins to set up a small stand to sell something we do not understand. We offer lollipops to children who thanked us many times.
We arrive at the campsite in the early afternoon Olympos Kas is a small campsite with a small but well kept beach. We have difficulty entering because of an Italian Roller Team (by chance!) Who got in the middle of the foot while turning up the dish.
The sea is clean and nice people, we wonder if we are to have dinner with fish and we booked the dinner.
In the evening we do find the table set right on the water, bring us a delicious grilled fish with vegetables and potatoes, hollowed out melon with ice cream inside, and local beer (Efes), all about 15 € a head. ... Dinner delightful, invaluable frame |!
Monday, August 23
Gianni unfortunately has a refrigerator with mange, not working well, the gas will not start unless connected to the 220 or running. For this reason we decided not to stop and see the town of Kas but go directly to Demre, in this heat you can not afford to have out of the fridge.
We are struggling a bit 'to find the campsite Demre and Lecco (gpsN36 ° 13.479' E29 ° 59.408 ') marked by a sign with the image of Santa Claus. We make mistakes and we arrive at a campsite (so to speak) on a sandy beach, there are connections but it is very isolated and it is not what we wanted. After a little 'shot, we can finally take the right street, the place is really cute and nice, distinguished by a beautiful green lawn and a large pebble beach, ideal for Zara.
While Gianni, Arna and Ivano tinkered with the gas we are going to make us a nice bathroom.
The beach is huge and there will be no more than a dozen people!
The sea is clean and the use of beach facilities absolutely free (in Italy should learn), only after hours in the afternoon we come to ask if we want to drink something cool, of course we accept and take the opportunity to ask if you can have half to visit Myra and a boat to Kekova. Assure us both and we spend the day relaxing.

Tuesday, August 24
Today is the birthday of Gabri, two taxis in the morning, contacted by the operator, we have come to take to the campsite to visit the site of Myra and the church of San Nicola.
Will be practically at our disposal for the whole morning, we agreed a price of 50 lit (25 €) per taxi.
Then we go to the site of the rock tombs of Lycia civilization, are a very special show. Too bad that no one should be accessible and be content with admiring them from below. The theater is great, the whole site but he looks a bit 'scruffy and do not deserve it.
This looks a bit 'shabby things, at least so far (with the exception of the Bodrum Castle) is a constant. These sites should be valued more in my opinion, it is also true that the restoration must have considerable costs and difficult to sustain even by charging an admission ticket.
The church of San Nicola is very interesting though to approach the sarcophagus is almost impossible because of the huge ranks of Russian tourists, cheering in prayer, which takes literally the touch and, of course, everyone say their prayer.
We can also change the euros in the bank and do some 'of shopping at the supermarket this afternoon relaxing on the beach and dinner, based on good fish at the restaurant of the campsite.
Tomorrow boat trip to Kekova.
Wednesday, August 25
This morning we came to take him to Andriake where we expect the boat to go around that we had booked.



The "boat" is a big motor cruiser and the captain is assisted by his son (see photo above).
As a first step we visit a large cave in which a barely penetrate clear water and colorful dream, then takes us on a lovely cove where you do a wonderful bathroom, and when he again takes us to visit the ruins of a city Simena was on the island of Kekova, this was once joined to the mainland but a large earthquake has made it sink into the sea. Glass-bottomed boat you can still see the vestiges of the same, amphorae and many other items.
We then went to the village of Kekova to visit his castle, you get there only by sea or by mule track.
The place is really nice and there are many craft shops where we bought very nice items at good prices.
After seeing, again from the bottom of the boat, the wreck of a ship we have entered a very sheltered bay where, as we went for a refreshing swim, the captain and his son set up a slap-up lunch with grilled fish, salad tomatoes and cucumbers and crisp. As a final melon and watermelon.
After the fateful turkish coffee are broken down into a creek deep in a fjord where the water, unlike all the places we went swimming, it was very cold. This is because many springs coming out from the rocks on the sides.
For this we spent a wonderful day all-lit 450 (lunch and taxi service roundtrip to the campsite) in seven and I do not really!
Captain Mr. Cimen return has absolutely wanted to offer us coffee in her house has the family and offering the delicious figs from the orchard.
We ended the evening at the campsite, where the owner has worked hard to get us the address of the campsite Antalya (since we could not find the GPS coordinates) where we will have to await the arrival of Ali and Bro.
At Camping "Demre and Lecco" we were very good, only negative showers as cold but with the heat wave we could find so it's good enough, we spent 75 lit a camper for three nights. We found people kind and helpful, if you want to go Remember that the satellite (at least our Becker Z 99) leads us to the main road then you have to turn to the indication of the restaurant "Limoneda" once you find that is enough to continue for a 200 mt and you will immediately notice the sign with Santa Claus dress wet. It 's a place that absolutely recommend if you are in the area, certainly better than that of Kas is the size of the shore for a facility.
Thursday, August 26
Let's start with the comfort we head towards the search for Kemer Cirali Rutard where according to the guide you should find the Green Point camp, we find the place but even the shadow of the campsite, everyone we meet are not suitable enough for our media (We are 3.10 meters), there are trees too low, we find a place to maneuver to turn back. We spend, Arna Elnagh with its sand and instead to go out to shovel a lot, then let's put under the carpet on which to take hold, finally manages to get out of the mire with great effort and a great deal 'of sweat and aggravation . We run like hares to look elsewhere. Campsites marked on the rails or on the map you have provided before leaving the Turkish Embassy (which then would have to be updated), not even the shadow. We stopped for lunch with a sandwich without trying to find a place with a little 'shadow, there are 44 degrees and stifling.
Finally, when we were dead tired by now also because of various problems, including engine failure outside of the step lifting of the cover-up after Arna wanted to finish the day with a flourish, and the collapse of our central chandelier, at the end Beldibi we see signs of Mandalina Camping.
We always settle out because of the height, but give us the connection to the 220, services (bathrooms and showers) better omitted, the rate is 35 lit a camper (exaggerated than what is offered and compared in Demre), we do not even ask for the documents are received and there, but tonight it's okay.
We are on the beach and we can relax with a refreshing bath and a shower after if it is rusty and I do not mind cold water.
At the beach we see a boat that looks great if with a very special name in Italian ......... meaning is clear, but what does it mean in turkish??
We have dinner with a beautiful and delicious in a Kebab restaurant Moldova applies the custom of leaving a message written on the walls, a custom which, of course we respect ourselves, then to bed.
Tomorrow we expect Antalya.

Friday, August 27
Today we're going to Antalya and is the birthday of John, how nice! This year we celebrated two birthdays on the road! The sweltering heat of yesterday leads us to choose to visit the Upper Duden waterfalls, the site is really wonderful and I recommend if you're in the area not to lose it. A very impressive cave behind the waterfall and passes lets you see an incredible sight. Everything is very green and a sense of relief that we very much appreciate seeing the tropical temperatures of recent days.
Always in search of refreshment we decide to visit the ski resort of Saklikent at 1750 mt. Also reported on road signs, about forty miles from Antalya, the road is not the best and we wonder how a place so busy they have not been treated more like those encountered so far (for skiing these Turks are a labor incredible!). As we passed as it often does arouse curiosity. At the top is definitely not the cool one would expect at this level, at least not wet enough to be in the shade to enjoy a fairly cool.

Lunch and after we had a little 'go down looking for reclaimed Denizer camping (which seems to be the only facility that can accommodate).
We find the beginning of Antalya (ie with inputs coming from Kemer in Antalya, turn right just before the gas BP). The camp would also be nice if it were well kept, has two swimming pools but it all looked very dilapidated and neglect is particularly noticeable in the bathrooms, decaying structures and rusty ... .. but the convent just pass this ...... ... at the end of us care to be connected to the 220 to run air conditioners and be able to download the tapes.
Everywhere we've been up to now (and I speak of campsites) we never found the pit for the greywater that we always had to download to the ground.

Saturday, August 28
Today we dedicate the day exploring the old city. With the bus it into town from here and walk down towards the harbor.
Everything is really nice, the streets, shops, people!
We buy all of them, Dona and John bought a beautiful ceramic plate of Marmaris and we follow them to the wheel, Arna and Gabri acquire a most valuable Kurdish rug. In addition burgled several souvenir shops.
In one of these items that sells foam ask advice on where to eat.
The friendly operator closes the store to accompany the restaurant "La Terrasse". Initially we are very puzzled, the place looks like one of those where tourists plucked but he claims not to care about appearances and he's right .......
The suite has a terrace where a glance on the beautiful bay where you can also see the Lower Duden Waterfall (the one which flows directly into the sea), there are plenty of boats that take tourists to admire. Lunch of fried calamari served with a sauce that paradise, there are muffins, salads and fruits. The bill is about 180 lit (about 90 euros) and we are seven!
In the afternoon continue the tour of the city continuing to do miscellaneous expenses, purchasing a box of various perfumes hair dye, for the same brand and type to those who normally use that here but they cost almost half that from us, along with Dona buy gracious of sandals with the toes upward and ever upward with the tips of the delicious house slippers. In the bazaar there are also strange taste of lemon crystals that are dissolved in 'water, ever!

They also serve tea, soluble in various flavors, bought the pomegranate and apple.
We are really tired, with the bus back to camp this evening waiting for the arrival of our friends.
Among Ale and land on time (23.30) and you do take a taxi to the campsite, everyone is asleep, we and they have had a busy day even though in a different way,
David purr and hardly even feel the rush that makes the queue zara celebrating the arrival of friends.
Sunday, August 29
We wake up slowly and do all the due presentation as Ale and include only knew Arna and Gabri.
Today we begin our approach in Cappadocia, the stage that will lead us to Beysehir. The road climbs gradually bringing us to truly take steps in altitude (up to 1800 mt.) Settling and always above 1200 meters. Otherwise makes hot cross miles and miles of land planted with wheat, already cut, which looked like a golden steppe with rare and sparse trees.
Come and visit the wonder of the Mosque of Cedar and as soon as is also the site of the basins of the Hittites, a natural source with the remains of baths and swimming pools very interesting.
In this place our vehicles arouse the curiosity of all the inhabitants of the district who come in droves to surround look as if we were penguins at the zoo.

This puts us in great discomfort and does not allow us to fully enjoy the beauty of the place, so head back, and back to Beysehir to look for the staging point for which we had read the guide Vivicamper. This place unfortunately no longer exists, but there is still teaches there are constructing a building! Following the road for a couple of km away, on the right, the ADA camping. It 's a restaurant (closed for Ramadan), which allows a field where the rest and gives the attack on the 220.
At the moment nothing else, even if you are building the facilities (toilets and showers), then surely improve in the near future.
Monday, August 30
We are moving towards Cappadocia, stopping at the caravanserai Sultahani
The building is majestic, a large courtyard surrounded by walls on which there are stores and what were the common meeting places, a large barn in which they could be hospitalized for up to 300 camels (dromedaries opsssssssss!)
At the center of a small mosque. Too bad that the various rooms that make up the building, often rich in valuable ornaments are not adequately lit and that the guide, but with great good will, a stentatissimo speak only English. We stop for lunch along the way and arrive at Kaya Camping in the afternoon.
Enter in Goreme is like entering a dream, I have just arrived and already I realize that this is one of the best places on earth.
From the campsite you can enjoy a splendid view over the valley below, the final structure is adequate: showers and bathrooms cleaned and cared for, we use a laundry immediately, a beautiful pool where we dive for a cooling bath and relaxing. Around 18 arrives arrives Cingil Mr. Mehmet, who had telephoned announcing our arrival. It 'a very kind and helpful, explains well the program that has prepared us, will be three intensive days with the advantage that we can still leave our cars.

Tuesday, August 31
This morning we woke up early, hearing strange noises like a blow, we left the sun was rising and as we have witnessed the incredible spectacle of a forty-colored balloons that floated over the valley ... The most wonderful breakfast of my life! !
With Mehemet that will guide us today we will visit several things starting with the Goreme Open Air Museum. It 'a show of incredible beauty (and this impression will be repeated often in the days to come). The open-air museum consists of a large monastic complex carved into the rock of the pinnacles known as fairy chimneys. E 'consists of many churches carved into the rock and painted with frescoes of great beauty, in addition there were rooms, kitchens and dining halls.
The largest of these churches is the church known as the buckle.
The whole valley is the result of a rehash of the wind and rain on layers of rock (volcanic) with different density and hardness; result of a unique spectacle! Let's take a walk in the Valley of Love 'and then we go to visit a state school where you taught the art of weaving carpets and silk manufactured (you can see the entire cycle from the cocoon color).
We admire the works of great value and in the end we all do involve at least buy a carpet in the family. We do note that in hand-woven carpets the color change shades depending on how they are turned explain that this feature ensures that the carpet is hand knotted in industrial ones you do not see a difference.

It 'a drain, fortunately we will ship the rug (that made us sign on the back to make sure that we get just what you choose) just for Christmas, the gift that will be put under the tree! We'll be sure to have made a good purchase, and certificate with state seal.
After lunch (well) in a BUFE where for 10 € you can get everything you want in the quantity you want, we go to visit a pottery workshop where you can see the entire production cycle. Even here there are really valuable pieces and proportionate prices, but we have already made purchases and enough for today! I limit myself to only a few small souvenirs. We return to camp after going to book the balloon ride that will make tomorrow Gianni Arna David Gabri Ale and Bro.
Iva, Dona and I'll stay to admire the spectacle from the ground. The fare among other things is not exactly cheap, ranging from 110 to 150 € per person.
Tuesday, September 1
This morning the alarm rang at 4:30, the organizers of the balloon flight will take to our friends at 5.15. At 6.00 am after receiving a breakfast will be raised in the air to fall to 8.00 am after watching the sun rise over the valley. Certainly it must be a unique spectacle!

Around 10 will pick the van driven by the sympathetic co-worker of Mehmet turkish whose name means "Black." The main goals of today are the underground city and the valley of Kaimakly Hilario well known for its natural beauty and the fact that it was the seat of the set of a film of the first series of Star Wars.
The underground city is something special and very charming, eight floors of which is composed of only the first three can be visited, but still gives a sense of what it should be. There is capacity to understand how to live in such a way, even if they can be understood by the security needs of people who lived there. Large stone wheels, and once served as the door closed I challenge anyone to go inside there are about 5000 rooms, kitchens, warehouses and large fireplaces that provide air circulation and an almost constant temperature. A work of immense engineering if you think that was all dug by hand.
In the afternoon we visited the Valley of Hilario, a large canyon that the river has carved into volcanic rock, is the contrast between these vertical walls of a particular color red and the deep green of the vegetation that grows on the bottom of the valley, along the watercourse. Even here one can admire rock churches, some were beautifully painted, but their condition is not the best mainly because of the stupidity of the graffiti that used to rage here as anywhere else in the world!

The walk takes a couple of hours, we find a cool refreshment cute, with tables and benches in the middle of the river, we take a couple of "Efes" turkish coffee and some splashing with his feet in cold water together ducks. On the way back we see the Pigeon Valley with his pigeon, which, as we explained yesterday Mehemet, to collect the guano that is used to fertilize vineyards. We enjoy the beautiful landscape and then visit the "castle" a great training completely excavated and used as a dwelling. Training is also admire that because of its shape reminiscent of a camel, and do the photos.

Before returning to camp we visit a craft center where jewelry Ivano sven for giving me a beautiful "Trabzon" a type of bracelet that was given to brides. And 'because of its value that is created the saying "careful not to lose the Trebizond" which means that one must be careful not to lose something you take seriously even in a figurative sense.
Very well conclude the day by dining at a local restaurant where we see a nice show of local dances and music ........ including a highly acclaimed (by boys of the group) performance of belly dancing.

The day was full and we are very tired, but tomorrow will be a busy day, then just finished the show the exposure "Black" he drove us all to sleep !!!!!!

Wednesday, September 2
Even today, the program is full. In the morning we will go to Songali Valley, famous for the manufacture of handmade dolls. The valley is far enough from the place where campers, but we always trust the van with "Nero" who speaks a little 'English and communication, however, has a very nice and understandable.

The place is really charming, we see a family as soon as we get busy to sew and decorate these dolls, they are people of great kindness, make us sit in their house. The girl who speaks a bit 'of Italian (learned from the tourists) is really with beautiful green eyes of a charming and sweet.
They work so fine that all buy more than one object, dolls, gloves and slippers. We continue the visit to the valley along a path that leads us to see some rock-hewn churches and the old village. Some children come to meet us showing other dolls, do not resist to their faces and even buy their Christmas presents .............. are insured!
In the afternoon we return to Goreme walking around and seeing the formation of different fairy chimneys called "the family"

Let's go back to the campsite, we conclude tonight staying in Cappadocia going to see the ceremony of the Whirling Dervishes. Before the ceremony we have dinner at a local place where we taste the famous "pide" and a typical dish cooked in a wood oven in earthenware pots are broken in the flat portion when eating the soup is delicious meat that comes out and how to present the original.

The ceremony takes place in an impressive caravanserai, completely restored, we are told that we can not speak as they cheer during their dance of the Dervishes are followers of sophistry in a trance.
Our impression is that what we have seen is not a real ceremony, but a demonstration of it, there seemed to be in a trance, it was still interesting and has served for at least an idea of this philosophy.
At the end we were given a drink that Mehemet explained to us that is prepared on special occasions. Very good!
My opinion is that these three days are worth the entire trip, Cappadocia is almost the land of dreams, all these formations that seem to come from a storybook houses gnomes ...... ...... ......... beautiful!
Mr. Mehmet Cingil (+905323530849 pictured above with Nero) has organized in the best and I think would please him to divulge his phone number, he speaks Italian well and has a great culture, has allowed us to spend wonderful days without moving our vehicles and camping Kaya was the best one of those used so far.
Thursday, September 3
We decided to skip the stage and go directly to Istanbul Hattusa
The road is long, even if there is to say that until now the streets were absolutely the height of the Turkish situation. We drive along the road that skirts the great salt lake of Tuz, who appears like a mirage indescribable colors, it is impossible to give a stop to take some pictures.

What we are upset, perhaps because of fatigue, has been the impact with the traffic in Istanbul. We set the coordinates of the parking lot of Kennedy Caddesi (after the fish market) and I had the guidance of Ms Anna Vivicamper.
Entering in Istanbul we had 30 km of the tail, with people passing by all parties, right to left, you throw in half without signaling, does not know the precedence ............
As I say has been the weight of almost 700 km that we had on my shoulders but we got to the parking hysterical!
This parking would be very convenient as it is practically in the center, near the major attractions but it is not suitable for those who want a minimum of calm or a service. There are people coming and going for most of the night, you hear the traffic Kennedy Caddesi and has no type of service. Costa 25 lit. a camper, irrespective of the occupants.
Tomorrow morning I will ask the tourist office of the London news Camping or we'll move out of Istanbul.
Friday, September 4
We were at the tourist office in front of St. Sophia, even if you have any need Do not go, we were greeted by a girl who has decided to look up from PC only after several minutes and several "uh uh" to our question on London camping ruled CLOSED (mind a group of 16 campers Italian appoggiatisi to a tour operator we've had two weeks before).

To our question about Kennedy Hotel (which we were told that sometimes the campers in his home park), gave us the wrong address, all with air and annoyed enough. It 'was the only rude person we met throughout the trip.
Moral of the story we went to visit the things we wanted to see. Tonight we will go to the Black Sea to Kilios Mistik Camping approximately 35 km outside Istanbul.

We visited for the first Haya Sofia, the first major Christian church transformed into a mosque and now museum. The dome is huge and must have been an undertaking to keep it up, inside you can see the original mosaics and it seems strange to see live images with Christian symbols of Islam.
After we visited the Basilica Cistern, that wonderful place!
The Doric columns surmounted by capitals is reflected in the water and light make the atmosphere very special and charming, beautiful heads of Medusa as the basis of two columns in the inner part of the structure.

Lunch with the typical breads sold at stalls in front Haya Sofia and then we go to the Blue Mosque
The building is impressive from the outside, we have to wait before going for it is prayer time, then removed his shoes and donned the veil (we women) or a skirt (the boys in shorts) we enter. Inside the mosque is certainly very nice, too bad that almost anything you do not visit, you can only stay in a small part of it, the galleries would be nice to see the tiles that are not open and the whole effect of the interior, to me, is ruined by the myriad of wires that hold the lamps. So better from outside than from inside (at least for my meter).

We leave Istanbul with much less effort than when we entered and we carry a Kilios. The campsite is a small camping Mistik quiet and discreet, at least we have a minimum of services and the attack on the 220.
We asked the manager whether he can provide the service of a bus that takes us to Istanbul and we face as a basis for the day in Cappadocia, and Brother Ali will be tomorrow night at the airport on Monday morning will start early and not afraid to get in time due to traffic.

Sunday, September 5
The bus that would take us arrived in Istanbul but the music has changed, this morning it seems that the agreed amount is not to have it available all day but just to come and take us to recover in the evening.
Since these agreements were not we decide to do without it and get off with just a camper parked on Kennedy Caddesi.
As good Turks who meet in their own way the rules of the road (no mention of seat belts, helmets were not mandatory, but brings them no, they go to three on the motor and a number of other amenities including various ....) with us and we adapt our camper approved for four go down in Istanbul in nine more zara.

It 'a bad day, for the first time it rains. We park near the fish market, the fish is extraordinary and exposed as it is almost lunch time we taste with fish sandwiches, local specialty .... buonissimiiiiiiiiiiii.
Given the rain we go to visit the Dolmabahce (at least we will be covered .... pity that so many have thought!), The palace headquarters of the Sultanate and also used as a residence by Ataturk. It worked as the seat of government until the capital was moved to Ankara.
I'm not telling you the wonders that are inside, go and visit him. The only inconvenience is that the tours are guided and the guides are required to speak only in English, some 'simplistic as you pay the ticket salty.
Leaving the rain had stopped so we took a ride on the Galata Bridge and the nearby Spice Market, alive and real nice pity that was almost closing time.
At the end of the day we accompanied to the airport and Brother Ali. From the highway, in the vicinity of this, we see the sign of London Camping and we are really taken for a ride on the goose tourist office! Then this structure is or is not up to expectations is another matter, the fact is that there is, somehow it works and is used.
Monday, September 6
Let's go back to Istanbul (again all on a camper, but today we have seven .... you better!), Today spent the day at Topkapi.
Without tickets for entrance to the palace we contact Italian speaking guide as we did in Ephesus. This allowed us to avoid being dispersed.

The nice lady told us quite a lot 'of things, we did note that you must pay extra to visit the harem avoid queues.
Then we went to the Treasury, on the guides it says that for this you pay an extra ticket but now is not the case, entry is free.
After admiring the magnificent display we came out tired and hungry, the eating place inside the Topkapi is very expensive, indeed overly expensive, so we got the usual sandwiches at the stalls outside.

We walked up to the Grand Bazaar, however, making a stop at the pastry Cigdem tactic, do not tell you what was on display ............

We ordered dessert which were portions of the big, turkish tea and Coke, we have spent seven in 35 lit (17 euro, what we had seen practically nothing gobbled up!). We tasted their jellies, nothing to do with what we had in Antalya, in the sense that these are much good, we have bought at least two boxes each.
The Grand Bazaar is very nice but, in my opinion, very touristy and not very real, gave me the impression that it is very popular with the locals, unlike that in which we were yesterday.
However, we made small purchases of souvenirs.
Tuesday, September 7
Fed up with traffic in Istanbul to Edirne run away, we had passed at the beginning of the lap but it was too late to think of visiting it, we had made a good impression, and then take advantage of the occasion.
We return to Camping "Great Omur" one of the best of those encountered on this tour. Take the bus into town, we go to visit the mosque,

has a beautiful spiral minaret very special and never seen. In its simplicity this mosque we liked almost more than the vaunted Blue Mosque
Then we went for a walk in the pedestrian area. This town actually we really like, there are fountains everywhere with refined and spectacular, strange for what should be a provincial town. Many of our administrators (see mayors and acolytes of the whole constitution) should humbly learn!
We poked around in the shops, we have entered into a shoe, nice stuff and very good prices. We buy seven and eight pairs of shoes, is committed in exaggerated gratitude, and we are very pleased with most of them.
I bought three pairs of leather shoes and leather spending half of what I spent in Italy and is so for everyone. We "girls" we bought hair dyes the same brand and type as those we use at half the price that is practiced in Italy ...... and do not say that is because they are less well of us! At the present state of things I would change with a turkish willingly.
In the evening we do the usual table, eating roast chicken bought in the city .... that good!

Wednesday, September 8

We leave and enter from Turkey to Bulgaria, he began the return journey. No problems at the border.
We will stop to see the monastery of Bakovo, we back the same way of going, the one with the galleries a bit 'dark but very beautiful landscapes.

Near Plovdiv to the monastery where we deviate from the guide Vivicamper know that there is a car park where you can stay overnight.
Bakovo The valley is very beautiful and interesting visit to the monastery. It 's a shame that the frescoes of the main church are almost completely covered by soot from the candles, we say to the guide and this tells us that the church is a place of pilgrimage and there is a lot of people. Does not even touched by the thought that perhaps turn electric lights would prevent the slaughter.
Coming out we have the chance to see a high priest (since the Patacconi gold around his neck), there is a very bad impression that worsens when we see it drifting away in a brand new Mercedes, standing next to a blonde in miniskirt and rituals vistosissima heels !.... the face of Monaco!
The night passed quiet.
Thursday, September 9
Today we have a stage of pure transfer, back to Camping Dunav of Zemun on the outskirts of Belgrade. This time, no mistakes, reaching the junction turn immediately left and after a couple of km we see an indication of the campsite.
Unlike when we came in August, the temperature is quite different, are 15 degrees. The evening also broke out a terrible storm, unable to make out the table, we all sneak into our camper.
Extend the table, we gather a bit 'and you're done, table saved!
The 500 km now beginning to weigh tomorrow and we have budgeted as much, with a decision last minute we changed route and decided to stop and see the caves of Postojna. Gabri and Arna they had already visited and they loved it.
Friday, September 10
Terrible morning, it rains and you do not see an inch. We are moving towards the border Serbo-Croat. To date we have never had any problems whatsoever.
This time, however, not so smooth. The Serbs are out there without bothering the slightest attention, they leave us and the Croats Arna more or less the same way, while blocking Abbott and Dona. They make them put aside and practically dismantled the camper. When we finally reached us telling that they did a lot of problems even for drugs ...... for some reason.
The Croatian Slovenian border is thankfully less of a problem and we all go out quickly, it also has stopped raining.

We arrive in Postojna in time for the visit of 16.
The caves are wonderful! Is a complex of 21 km of which only three can be visited.
The first two will travel on the train and the last walk with the guide, is a fantasy world. After leaving the caves we go to Predjama Castle, this is a site not to be missed. The castle was built for defensive needs and is practically in a karst cave. The view is remarkable.
I must say that the first impression I had about the first leg Slovenia is strengthening, I love this country and deserve a more detailed visit that will surely be foreseen.
The camp to which we rely, near Postojna, it is absolutely up to the job, has a beautiful location and excellent service.
Table last evening before returning ........ definitely a little 'homesick.




Saturday, September 11
We start at nine in the direction of Trieste, Gorizia, rather than because we do not prefer to stay off the road less traveled Villesse.
We walk along the last stretch of town, we stop at the gas station before John and Dona deviate towards Bologna but it's so congested as to prevent the break. We salute you as the fly, with the intention of seeing us as soon as possible. The back is smooth, except that there is definitely the chandelier fell on his head. We are in Genoa in mid-afternoon with the head in Scotland next trip ....... wait for us here we come!

CONCLUSIONS:

On this trip I learned to appreciate the kindness and the willingness of the Turks, except for a few rare exceptions when we had some need or problem has been made in all four.
We learned to appreciate their kitchen in no way inferior to ours, great fish, and gozleme pide, chicken and lamb.
I advise you not to fill with supplies, fruit and vegetables can be bought even in stalls along the streets and is very good with very reasonable prices, the supermarkets are stocked there is even the pasta, the only thing that is not mineral water is The crisp flesh is bought in supermarkets, do not expect cuts as the slices or from us.
The cost of living is much more affordable with the exception of the cost of diesel fuel or fuel that is typically higher than in Italy, from this point of view is a journey that costs a lot. Among other things, is really in contrast with the prices of goods in general, although I must say that car on the road there are many beautiful and even if some jalopy is seen particularly in those countries.
The general impression that Turkey has given me is that of a modern, secular state with great potential. If they can join the European Union in a very short, given the stature and vision
of our politicians from peanuts, surely overtake us great.
The only drawback of this trip was very hot, sometimes unbearable, especially on the coast of the Aegean and the Mediterranean (with temperatures too much above 40 degrees). In Cappadocia although the altitude makes it more hot dry and bearable. Who has the problem of suffering would be better to schedule a time other than where we were.
In conclusion I would like very much to thank Aurelio and Eve, who gave "the" on this trip and that I hope will be the next company, I also thank the friends who have shared with me and my family, this trip is mainly due to their that the holiday was unforgettable!
Finally, I thank also Mrs. Anna and advice and guidance Vivicamper Mr. Mehemet Cingil who worked with her gave us beautiful days in Cappadocia, if you decide to go please do not hesitate to contact him.

Aleivano