Among Mosques, ruins and sea

"O voice of the one which firstly
knows the trembling of the Sea! "
Gabriele d'Annunzio, Shepherds of Abruzzo.
The emotions shown by the shepherds of Abruzzo when (during the transhumance, leading their herds to the plains) the sea appeared to their eyes can be compared to that of our group at the sight of the coast and of the dazzling reflection of the blue waters of the sea, after several days spent on the Anatolic plateau, fascinating but barren, dusty and sunny. But, perhaps, it is better to start from the beginning: since our arrival in Istanbul, occurred in the afternoon of August, 8th.
Istanbul: 12.000.000 inhabitants, situated on Bosphorus strait, is the meeting point between East and West. Europe or Asia? Certainly, with its bold two bridges crossing the strait, it is not only the ring of union between two continents, but also between two cultures: eastern and western.

 

In Istambul there are numerous testimonies of the various cultures that succeeded over the centuries. Santa Sofia and several other smaller churches take us back to the Byzantine period, the heir of Greek and Roman civilizations. The ancient dwellings of the district of Beyoglu, dominated by the Galata tower, remind us of the Middle Ages, during while great palaces along the banks of the Bosphorus were manufactured according to Western architectural styles. The dozens of mosques, with their minarets are visible from every part of the city, they even have the charm of eastern. The eastern flavour winds also the Topkapi palace and the various markets, first among all, the Grand Bazaar with its animation and its smells.
Our visit of Istanbul starts from the Santa Sofia cathedral, one of the most impressive buildings of the old town. The cathedral, max monument and symbol of the city , was built by Emperor Justinian and finished in 537BC. He remained the world's largest Christian church until 1453, when Mehmet transformed it into a mosque. It remained this way until 1935, when Ataturk cahnged its destination of use into a museum. The dome, built without support, was almost a challenge to the impossible, and in fact it lasted only until 559 when an earthquake had collapsed it. It was rebuilt in later centuries with the addition of buttresses.
The most interesting attraction of the basilica are certainly its gleaming mosaics placed in the upstairs gallery. Even the dome is covered with mosaics: pity that a decade ago they were hidden from some scuffolds.
However I think that its visit does not justify the high cost of the ticket (about 10 euros); much more interesting are the Blue Mosque, with free admission, which was our second stage.
The official name of the most fascinating Bosphorus mosque is Ahme Sultan Camii, universally known as the Blue Mosque. That's because the turquoise color dominant in the temple. Walls, columns and arches are covered by Iznik tiles, decorated in tones ranging from blue to green, with light that filters from 260 windows and gives to the great hall of prayer an evocative as surreal atmosphere. The Blue Mosque, which dates back to the seventeenth century, is also the only one to have no fewer than six minarets.
Our visit to Istanbul continues with the exploration of the Cistern cathedral (Yerebatan Sarayi), perhaps the most curious of the city. Built in the Byzantine period to fight the absence of water in case of siege, this enormous reservoir has a length of 140 meters, a width of 70, and is covered by a 336 columns-supported roof. Our first day in Istanbul continues with a visit to the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi) of the old town. This maze of streets and passageways hosts more than 4000 stores. The only negative note is the annoying siege that sellers make to all passers. In the late afternoon we climb on the Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) to admire the sunset over the city from its top. The tower is a Genoese dated 1348 and rises up to 62 metres above the ground, on the shore of Golden Horn. From its top it offers an extraordinary view of the Golden Horn and the Bosporus.
The second and final day stay in the city begins with a visit to the Topkapi Palace. Maze construction and center of power of the Ottoman Empire, between the fifteenth and the nineteenth century, in this rich building, sultans and their court lived and ruled. In 1924 it was turned into a museum and opened to the public. Now it is the main tourist attraction in Istanbul. It was built by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 in a position from which he can see the sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. After him the building was inhabited by a long series of sultans until the nineteenth century, when Mahmut II lived here for the last time before his successors choose to live in other sumptuous palaces built on the Bosphorus banks.
Our stay in Istanbul can not be concluded without the traditional and unforgettable trip on the Bosporus, the narrow strait that separates Europe from Asia. Its shores offer a mix of past and present, of great splendor and natural beauty.

With a journey of 10 hours by train overnight, passed in comfortably bed car, we arrive at 8:10 of August, 11th in Ankara, the capital of Turkey. A quick visit to the Museum of Anatholic Civilizations, located at the door of the citadel (home to priceless collections of Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hittit, Phryg and Roman works), and we immediately head to the archaeological site of Hattusa (ancient capital of the Hittit nation) and the nearby Yazilikaya, a Hittit sanctuary with beautiful engravings in rock. Hattusa is one of the most important archaeological sites in Turkey; here survive the remains of a big city, only partially covered by excavations. One of the best-preserved works of the site is certainly the Lions Port, which probably dates back to the thirteenth-fourteenth century BC. From the front door there are two giant lions that had the function of keeping away the evil spirits from the city. Another door, that opens to the eastern Side, is the Kings Port, built with large blocks of stone and adorned by an example of apparent royal figure, which represents the Hittite god of war that protects the city with his axe. Unfortunately, the figure placed here is only a copy, while the original is kept in a museum in Ankara.
The name of the Yazilikaya site, which is located about 3 kms from Hattusa, means "Rocky with inscriptions", is exactly what is there. This is the main place of Hittite worship and his visit acquires a particular importance to us for the many reliefs carved in the rock by people that lived 3000 years ago.

Leaving the site of Hattusa, our journey continues in the Cappadox to reach the town of Avanos, where we'll pause for three nights. Avanos is famous for its ceramics, modelled with the red clay of the river that crosses the city.
Among the places of Cappadox not many are fascinating and mysterious like the "underground cities". The oldest date back into the Hittite age, namely between 3000 and 4000 years ago. While in peacetime the region's inhabitants lived on the surface of the city, but when they were threatened by invaders, they refuged in their underground homes. A series of tunnels and rooms communicating on different levels, where they could remain safe even for six months. These underground cities were carved into the tufa, on different floors, with narrow tunnels, houses and aeration wells seem to be true labyrinths. It is precisely to visit the underground city of Kaymakli, that after our arrival we dedicate the first part of the morning. Kaymakli is a maze of tunnels and rooms dug into the rock on eight different levels, of which only five are open to the public.
Our first day in Cappadox continues with a small trek across the Ihlara valley (Ihlara Vadisi), a remote valley which, in the past, constituted one of the withdrawal places of Byzantine monks. About that past presence you can admire the different valley churches decorated with cave paintings. The road follows the course of the stream that winds in the narrow and deep valley, until reached the homonymous village. In addition to the Byzantine churches, in this valley, we can admire the many inhabitations dug into the mountain wall, it has been estimated that existed around 5000 of them. The valley, being difficult to access, had not suffered excessive damages from Arab attacks.
The second day of our stay in Cappadox begins with a visit to the open-air museum of Goreme. Located near the middle of the region, Goreme is marked by cones and cliffs rich of openings everyone communicating with each other. It is one of those rare places in the world where skillfully work integrates the surrounding landscape. The first homes were dug in these rocks from 4000 BC. At the time of Byzantium other chapels and monasteries have been dug in the rock, frescoed with ochre tones that reflect the colors of the surrounding landscape. Even today is possible to see harmoniously dwellings dug into the rock cones and villages made of volcanic tufa.
The symbol of Cappadox are certainly the "Fireplaces of Fate", strange tufa spires covered by several layers of rocks. They formed in millennia by both the corrosion produced by the wind and rain and by water that, during their path, carried rocks made of hard basalt. This rocks, being more resistant to the bottom, hadn't been modified by the corrosion and remained on top of the spires, as hats in a precarious state of balance. In the wonderful "Valley of Devrent", that we are going to visit, lie the most important group of these strange volcanic cones, characterized by their red color that is common to many other valleys of this region.
Our visit to Cappadox continues with the "Valley of Zelve", located at the end of a road which passes between spectacular rock formations. At Zelve there are three valleys created by erosion, surrounded by high cliffs with caves and tunnels. Here man, digging the tuff over the centuries, built homes, churches and monasteries.
Leaving Zelve we reach the town of Uchisar, dominated by its castle, a tower-fortress which hosted the first Christians in the area, in its rooms dug into the rock. The village is located on the highest plateau of the region, from where a beautiful landscape can be admired. In the rock of the castle many windows have been opened; in the past they could be closed with boulders adapted to the openings: in this way rocks took an aspect quite natural making the human presence not visible. The purpose of the fortress was to protect its inhabitants in case of danger.

Today August, 14th we leave Cappadox to head towards the city of Konya; tomorrow we'll continue our travel to reach the Mediterranean coast. During the transfer to Konya we must stop in the town of Sultanhani for a visit to his caravanserai. Built in 1229 and restored in 1278 following a fire, is currently the largest caravanserai of Turkey. Konya (680.000 inhabitants), an isolated town placed inside the vast Turkish steppe, has the appearance of a traditional stopping site for caravans. Much of the city was built over the last twenty years, but the center is very old and the charm of Konya is enclosed in this contrast between modern and old. In the cramped quarters of the market area we can admire several ancient buildings while, immediately at east, stretches the modern area, with students dressed elegantly. In this part of town we have rarely saw women with their heads covered.

Today we continue our trip towards the Mediterranean coast. The first town we reached was Alanya, located on a rocky promontory surrounded by jagged coast and surmounted by a fortress where you can admire the beautiful landscape of the sea from. Alanya become one of the most important seaside resorts in Turkey. The original fortress that dominated the rocky peak was, for a long time a den of pirates, until it fell into the hands of the Romans in 67 BC being destroyed. Known in the Byzantine era, it was later conquered by Sultan Keykubat, who chose it as his winter residence, building a new fortress. A quick visit to the area of the castle and we continue till Side, a town characterized by its impressive Roman ruins. Before the visit to this archaeological site, we give us a refreshing swim into the sea adjacent to the private beach (very disappointing): nearby public beaches are much more beautiful but, unfortunately, we discovered it later. The archaeological site gives an impression of abandonment, with vegetation that grows between the historical findings. The theatre, with its 15.000 seats, is one of the largest in Turkey but is sullied by the restoration work that started some years ago, continuing sporadically, with the permanent presence of a crane which degrades its view.
After a transfer stage in Antalya, with a first stop for a visit to the great theatre of Aspendos, and a second stop for another swim into the sea (this time at a beautiful beach) we reach the village of Ucagiz. We also make a detour inland to visit the sites of Termessos and Chimera. Termessos, one of the most extraordinary in Turkey, reached by half an hour of walk, left us impressed by the spectacle of an ancient city between the desert mountains. His nasty inhabitants, Pisidian people, lived in their impregnable city hardly defending its independence. In 333BC they rejected Alexander the Great and in 70 BC they allied with Romans. Termessos is located in one of the most spectacular site of Turkey: the mountains landscape, which is background to the anphitheatre, is really unforgettable. Unfortunately, the lush greenery of the place invades even the monuments.
The Chimera site (literally "ardent rock") is a spontaneous perennial eruption of flames arising from the cracks of the Mount Olympos slopes. In the old ages it was believed that they were the breath of a monster: in the reality they are produced by a gases that filter from the ground and ignite on contact with the air. In the past they were much more than today: only thirty of them remain perfectly visible at dusk, while with the light of day they are visible only being closer to themselves.
At Ucagiz we used the whole day to relax at seaside. The fact that Ucagiz (which literally means "Three mouths") is not on the main road, and can be reached only through a travel 19 kms long, in addition to the provision that prohibits property development, enabled it to remain intact in the form of a typical turkish village of fishermen and farmers. It is located in a bay between several islands and peninsulas, with various ruins of ancient Lycos tombs. You can not go to Ucagiz without testing the thrill of navigation between the many islands of its bay (particularly Kekova island) that we reached with boat, with several stops to taste the joy of a dip in the bay's clear waters. Along coast there are Byzantine ruins, partly submerged by water.

Left the sea, perhaps with a little sorrow, we move in Pamukkale, a place characterizedby its shiny white and limestone formations and the nearby archaeological site of Hierapolis. The limestone formations of Pamukkale extend for about one square kilometer, formed by calcium bicarbonate. The waterway feeding the basins of Pamukkale runs for about three kilometers, and along its descent transports the mineral calcium that consolidates on rocks below. This will create the bright white docks with circular contours: within them collects a warm and beneficent water, which has a temperature of about 33°C degrees, used for therapeutic purposes. In many puddles of this zone we could plunge ourselves with equally healthy mud, which is deposited in large quantities on their bottom. Pamukkale in turkish means "Castle of cotton" and, seen from afar, reallygives this impression.
The site of Hierapolis, that we visited along with Pamukkale, is a huge complex of ruins dating from the second century BC. This wonderful area, being placed near Pamukkale water, was born as a spa; already known in the ages, it was destination for many tourists which could take benefit from "modern" structures to dive in the warm and balsamic waters. Initially the spa town of Hierapolis was owned by the person that commissioned its building: Eumenes II of Pergamon. In 133BC Hierapolis fell under Roman control when Attalus II left the kingdom of Pergamon to Rome dominion. In the Roman period the city reached its peak, until the first century AD when three devastating earthquakes struck the place, which finally after the fourteenth century, was abandoned.

August, 20th we return to the coast, namely at Selcuk, with a rapid detour to visit the site of Miletus. The first thing we noticed coming to Miletus was his great amphitheatre, the most important monument witnessing the past greatness of this city, been a remarkable commercial and administrative centre from 700BC to 700AC. After the silting of the port the city activities suffered serious losses. The theatre, capable of 15.000 seats, was built in the Hellenistic period and then restored by Romans during the first century AC.

Today is the last day of our trip, tomorrow we'll return to Italy. Before joining Izmir (the former Smyrnae), our last destination before departure, we dedicate the day to visit another archaeological site: Ephesus, certainly the most beautiful and interesting of all those visited. Ephesus is an ancient city of Lydia, built on the coast of the Mediterranean, at the mouth of the Caistro river in a place already attended Mycenaean age. It should be among the richest and most populous cities in the ancient world, home to great philosophers. It developed especially in Hellenistic and Roman periods, when it became the capital of the Asian province. It was also home of the hyperactive Christian community, linked to the preaching of St.s Paul and John the Evangelist, that tradition wants buried here.
The legend tells that the city was founded around the millennium BC by jonic populations, abandoning their land because of Dorians progression.
Ephesus became the most important city of the Asian province and here occurred the most violent revolts against the power of Rome. A rich city, not deprived of its opulence symbols, embellished with monuments and works of which people spoke throughout the ancient ages. As told before it was an important centre for Christians in Asia: here stayed the Apostle Paul. Ephesus was also seat of the Ecumenical Council of 431AC. Despite the attempts of Tiberius and Adrian to stop the natural silting of his harbour, the city was condemned to a slow decline.

Unfortunately, our journey is finished. Even our group split into two: some came back to Milan and others to Rome, but not before the promise to meet everyone once again, as soon as possible to exchange photographs and considerations about a journey that I found very interesting: especially for the thrill of knowing places where in the past millennia followed peoples and civilizations.
The return is not sad, because of the excitement at sight of the pictures made, writing these notes and, above all, thinking to a new destination.

Travel Companions (in alphabetical order)
Bruno - Germagnano (Turin)
Claudio - Florence
Franco - San Mauro Pascoli (FC)
Gianni - Florence
John - Rome
Maria - Padua
Maria Luisa - Varese
Maria Teresa - Nembro (Bergamo)
Mauro - Lucca
Riccardo - San Giorgio (Naples)
Rosario - Caravate (Varese)
Santina - Rozzano (Milan)
Simona - Florence
Sergio - San Mauro Pascoli (FC)
Stefania - Varese
Stefano - San Mauro Pascoli (FC)