Enjoy the warmth of Kurdistan.. My journey to eastern Turkey

Airline Pegasus (Bergamo Istanubul-Adana, and back) 300 € per person.
travelers "do it by yourself"
no important snag
Adana Hotels Mercan, 25 € per night, single with breakfast.
Diyarbakir hotels .... Single € 20 per night with breakfast.
Van Hotel .... € 10 per night.
Mardin, hotels Erdoba Edler, 40 € / night with breakfast.
Saliurfa, Ipek Palas hotel, 15 € per night, single with breakfast.
Total expenditure ALL INCLUSIVE € 900 each
Recommended places: Diyarbakir, Van, Mardin, Van mountain valleys above.

 

The warmth of Kurdistan

Kurdistan - July 2011
A holiday outside the European standards, not too far from Italy, where mass tourism has not yet 'arrived? If you try this, Kurdistan can 'be for you!
July 13, 2011
The airline "Pegasus" bring 'David (I), Carla and Alexander the beginning of Kurdistan. Flight Bergamo-Istanbul, Istanbul-Adana. € 300 well spent.
The '"adventure" begins at the airport in Istanbul. As we walk to the gate for the flight to Adana, Alexander loses the ticket! Saves us the luck in the form of a turkish citizen who promptly calls us and we laugh 'ticket. And that 'only the beginning of the aid and kindness' that we will meet later.
We leave at 22.00 from the airport of Adana, and strange but true, do not depart from the airport by public transport to reach the center, where we had booked the first two nights.
We go out walking and then we encounter the first difficulty, 'which will take us' all the way, that' to be understood in a place where almost no one speaks English. We ask where 'the bus stop, and several people (when you ask for something you really do bend over backwards to help you) tell us that it will stop' them 'where we are, that' along a curve!
We like good Italians do not believe, the true Italian always sees a trap, and instead, and 'just so'! There are virtually no public bus and public transport and 'entrusted to a flood of Dolmuc (minibuses), I assume private, constantly crossing the city' and stop immediately when someone asks to go, wherever you are.
Blistering heat, resist the temptation of delicious ice cream to take "scratched" from large loaves of ice jelly. We throw ourselves instead of sealed bottles of water, which will always everywhere without difficulty '.
Mercan downtown hotel, single room for 25 € per night with breakfast (later we will see that prices are two to three times lower than in Italy), the hotel is not 'beautiful but certainly an important thing: the air conditioner (together 'independent) in the room! Constant travel is essential as the period.

This big city with more than 1,000,000 inhabitants is not particularly interesting, but worth a visit to the beautiful new mosque, the largest in Turkey, with tall minarets and covered with fine blue-gray and white marble.
The interior is tastefully done, all the high ceilings are decorated with typical Oriental style, which we appreciate very much also because the temperature is pleasant and there are 36 degrees out.
For lunch, given the proximity, we enter a very large mall, and we do not repent because we eat with a few euros a big chicken very tasty, actually the most good I ever ate. And there is also the only bar that will give us an Italian coffee.
We spend the afternoon strolling through the bazaar / market, an infinite number of stalls and shops where, divided by areas, you can find anything. Even the mechanic who fixes the scooter in the street.
The low price and good quality apparently there are some things to buy leather.
In the evening, we rely on our advice useful Lonely Planet or a new restaurant in the area of the city.

8.30 am departure for Nemrut Dagi, the mountains of 2150 meters in 1953, where they found the famous stone heads, and the supposed tomb of King Antiochus, who died in 36 BC
The arrival will be the afosissima Kahta, 6 hours of comfortable coach for nearly 400 km (three stops), and here we enter truly in Kurdistan. The Otogar (bus) to Kahta is composed of a row of low houses offices-a little 'shabby, with many different agencies, private transport. An oppressive heat, confusion, many people look at us like Martians and still great difficulty 'to make ourselves understood.
We are looking for a lift to Nemrut Dagi, and there are no tourist information offices, we have to throw the first agency with which we can get in touch, hoping it's not too phony (we will learn that the fraud in Kurdistan is much less present than in other places, such as Italy).
After a while 'bargaining, for 500 Turkish lira (about 200 €) we get a ride to Nemrut and other archaeological sites, accommodation for one night in a guesthouse in the mountains and returning to Kahta the next day.
The arrival at Nemrut is at sunset and it's a shame not to have professional cameras. The top of the mountain is an artificial mound of stones about 50 meters high, and even the most advanced technology has been able to verify whether or not there are the remains of this king. Dig It is not possible because all crumble.
Then our friendly driver takes us to a pension, 10 km further down, where out again in the morning before dawn to revise the Nemrut, but above all to take the bus to Diyarbakir.
In the evening, the first encounter with two tourists (at the end of the trip will be 9 in all!), Two Italian girls who travel the Kurdistan with a rental car. Congratulations!
One note, the short sleepless night was well, due to a strong and constant wind which seemed to undermine the foundations of the house. They said that sometimes happens.

After the cold and beautiful sunrise to Nemrut, Diyarbakir reach, a must since it is one of the most characteristic and symbol of Kurdistan. Note that the Kurdistan until a few years ago, was considered "non-existent" for the turkish government. It was even forbidden to mention the word. After decades of repression, in the last three years, the government is oriented towards a climate of detente. If it is true, you will see in the future.
600,000 inhabitants, flanked by the Tigris, the old part is completely surrounded by towering walls of black basalt, and the second longest intact ancient walls in the world, after China's.
This lively city is inhabited by Kurds ¾ bottle. Distinguished by the dark-skinned, even if a black beard shaved, and very black and thick hair as well.
Trying to reach the city walls, go through the poorest part of the suburbs, and groups of children constantly run towards us. "Hello! What's your name? Where you from? "Are the only words I can say in English, and when we say our names meet with their proud and happy. Once one dares to say "Money" and is immediately scolded by some adults. The Kurds have a dignity that makes them prone to begging.
Another feature, also present in Italy several years ago, is that children are very obedient to adults already. If you have family, it is customary to help parents in work or simple requests daily. And you will not see any child snorting or worse yet to respond in an arrogant manner.
So even these encounters have been pleasant, although I suggest not to run for these areas alone at night.
A place to be is an old caravanserai, A landmark building with inner courtyard and balcony too. The balcony is full of places where they make breakfast (menu only Kurdish) or snacks, but the ground floor is full of small shops of jewelry, clothing, trinkets.
Are outside the usual rich bazaar, big and complex.
All they look at us, we often smile and then we surprised when we approached and attacked a Kurdish speech. Let's make friends, and together with his friend (turkish) invite us to spend the evening, since it's Saturday, in a park where you can drink and listen to live music.
We run the risk (two are still unknown) and accept. Never regret it, because both speak English, the evening is different from usual, and the typical Kurdish dances we "force" to participate, are feasible even for those of us who can not dance
The women are cheerful and smiling as they dance and contacts, even if only at the hands are nice.
In conclusion leads us to see an ancient Roman bridge over the Tigris, artistically lit, and after having accompanied us to the hotel, we exchange email addresses and we greet warmly.

At 10 am Leave the hotel for € 20 per person with breakfast was really good, and we head towards the legendary Van Lake.
Seven hours by bus (only one stop for half an hour) and almost 400 km of road, endless fields of wheat initially, following the mountain, including a step to over 2000 meters.
Actually the way, though not quite smooth, is wide and the curves are not as annoying.
We walk down to the lake a beautiful valley with a beautiful stream, but completely ruined by rubbish left everywhere.
Van, a large city of over 300,000 inhabitants, is located almost on the banks of the lake, one of the largest in the world without emissaries (not sending water to the sea). For this reason, its water is salty and highly alkaline.
Another curiosity of the area is the presence of the famous Van cat, with eyes of different colors and the ability to swim and hunt fish from the lake. But do not expect to encounter on the street easily. Indeed it is endangered.
We find a cheap hotel, as the best combination of money are already occupied, and we throw ourselves into the river of people flowing through the main boulevard. Here, too, almost all men.
In the evening, asking directions to a Kurd, and we get to make friends with us in an excellent restaurant where we eat meat and not too spicy.
The next day we rent a car and we go to take the boat that will take us on a beautiful island, to see an Armenian church / tenth century Byzantine. Waiting for the boat, there's also a bunch of kids with whom we do of course friendship.
On the way back to Van climb on what remains of the old castle, which offers a beautiful view of city and mountains. Good at sunset.
The evening meal in a restaurant, consigliatoci by our friend the night before and that we meet again, where we eat fish. All very good and spending very little, even leaving a large tip.

With the car go up a valley in the direction of Hakkari, we arrive at a step of 2700 m and after a couple of military checkpoints, we turn left towards another valley towards Albayrak. Beautiful landscape, the valley is very green around the river, surrounded by beautiful mountains, arid furrowed by deep erosion. There are several mountain villages and could be a good idea one night (obviously privately, there are no inns). Here Kurdistan is very authentic, and for those who like trekking is also an opportunity to trek over the mountains very special. It can be an alternative to the more "famous" Bahcesaray (another mountain village 200 km further west).
Let's go back to Van where we expect our friend Kurd who has a shop where we treat carpets. The price is good and quality '(for us outsiders) also, so we throw ourselves on the purchase of a carpet head. We will ship them at home but be careful, when we arrive we will learn that there are customs fees charged to us, about 40% of the value of the goods!
The deal, we have dinner and take the bus, overnight journey towards Hasankeyf change of coaches to Batman.

At 4.30 the bus stops at an intersection and make us understand that we have come. In fact it's Batman, but where the station? With the help of another victim turkish walk for 5 km and arrive at the station that is not the main one where the bus was going, but a minor where you take the minibus to Hasankeyf. Wrath of my friend to the agency, the bus driver and a bit all over Turkey. We were told we had to do it on foot. 8 However, at last we can get on the minibus and after a couple of hours to arrive in this town on the Tigris River, famous for possessing the remains of one of the earliest human settlements in history, seems older than 12,000 years.
We visit the ruins of the village, some are practically part of Roman buildings and caves / Byzantine, and all with the prospect of being partially submerged by the lake created by a dam that the turkish government will build if supported by funding from Turkish and foreign banks.
Against such a project, in 2009 Mauro Colombo has created and directed a documentary film: "Life Hasankeyf waiting."
In the afternoon we take the first minibus arrives, Midyat destination, where we will not stop but we will take the first bus to Mardin, a city not to be missed.
From this city perched at 1000 meters above sea level, enjoys a splendid view of the Mesopotamian plain of Syria, about 20 km
The guide indicates that a hotel can do for us, Erdoba Edler.
In fact it is very nice, an antique building completely renovated and tastefully, almost luxurious even by European standards (a single room costs about 40 €, with breakfast), and the reception in the beautiful Turkish girl from typical beauty, oval face , jet-black eyes and Capel, speaks good English.
The location is enviable, the roof terrace is a completely open, where you can see part of the city walls and upper and lower part of the city and the Mesopotamian plain. Beautiful view, especially with the cool evening breeze.
We have dinner in one of only two restaurants (including these luxury), where you can drink wine or beer, and where they play live music. Of course, some Kurds invite us to dance and we can not refuse.

After a very hearty breakfast, we go down and take the first all'Otogar Savur minibus.
45 minutes of driving fast and bumpy but overall the country deserves to be seen.
Walking throw the eye into a courtyard enclosed by walls, where there is an environment in which a man holds some lessons for kids. The place is a madrasa, and the teacher as soon as he sees us, invites us to enter.
We take off our shoes because this environment is also used to pray, the teacher tries to explain himself with very little English they know and do to a girl reading the Koran, which at that time were studying. One senses something strange that does not immediately grasp, then I understand. The children, almost all females, are all smiling, and you notice that the relationship with the teacher, who is very kind with them, is of profound respect and obedience. Vaguely remembers the school as it should be in our country towns a few decades ago.
Waiting for the minibus to return to Mardin, there was a garage where some mechanics, have 10 years younger, trying to repair the engine of a tractor. The picture is very eloquent and surprising optimism and persistence of these mechanics despite the very limited means.
Return to Mardin and around the bazaar, this of infinite length.
is the famous best-selling soap made in this area so even crafted, made with olive oil with the addition of a precious oil, wild pistachio. In fact the color is almost always an irregular emerald green. The minimum amount of caustic soda also makes a mild detergent, without detracting from the anti-bacterial properties. The purchase is also so convenient that we buy more than one.
In the evening, dinner at the second restaurant where they serve wine or beer. Slightly lower quality than the first, but beautiful room with great location, tables on the terrace with views.

We go down to the station where we have the bus tickets to Sanliurfa, a city of 400,000 inhabitants near Syria.
Note that the day before we had purchased tickets from an agency, from which we then returned saying that we would have used since the time was not comfortable, and at another agency had found a better start. We expected that it would be limited to tear up the tickets, but we have also made all the money spent!
This bustling city is made ??up of Kurds, Turks and Arabs, and is much frequented by pilgrims of various religions.
The lungs of the city is Hizir Halilullah Ibrahim, a green area where there are mosques and the famous canals crammed with big carp regarded as sacred.
We climb to the top of the ruins of the castle where we are surprised by a violent thunderstorm with hail, the first of this hot journey.
Then around the bazaar, which strikes us to see inside some blacksmiths at work with hammer and anvil, complete with a forge to heat the iron. Alongside haberdashery and perfumery!
We spend the night Ipek Palas hotel. This is not the luxury, but neither is the price, 35 TRY (15 €) for a single room with bathroom and air conditioned.
Here more than in any other city, women are covered, often with a long light-colored raincoat, it's usually very fashionable. Women almost never seen without a veil, or around themselves. At the same time, however, is curious how sometimes turn to me and my friend looks drittti bold eyes, sometimes with laughter or even the beginning of conversation: "where are you from?" - "Italy" - "ah-ha ... "yet another confirmation of pleasant appreciation to the Italian people!