Sailing along the Turkish coast

With Gattadapelare between the Cyclades

 

Friday 29 September 2000. Rome-Athens.
Here we are again ready to let ourselves be conquered by the note, and always new feelings that now for over five years we go looking for these places and these seas.
We leave Rome at 8.30 am with bad weather. In Athens the weather is variable, but more to the east will be peaceful.
The ferry to Rhodes in the afternoon. We have time to go around the streets and alleys of Piraeus to make small purchases, and, above all, to breathe the smells and hear the sounds.
The Greek music that accompanies our lunch in a small inn, we announced that we were again on vacation. In our holiday. They eat with punctilious ritual saltziki, dolmados, taramosalada and drink retzina. The first sip sa strong resin and this taste so unpleasant the first time you tried, now we enlarge our hearts and our memories seasons.
In the coming days we used to the taste to not notice anymore.

Deal on a ferry flight with a beautiful bow window in the direction of our route.
Before us the Aegean sunset.
The ship is full of mixed groups-Italian Greeks visiting twinning with Rhodes. Sing and play all evening, especially Italian songs. While the first islands of the Cyclades parade there on the left echoes, sound, the chorus of La Montanara.

Saturday September 30. Rhodes.
I woke up at 7.00. I feel the ship stops in port and no noise. Dall'oblio you see only the open sea. We should already be in Rhodes, and the silence in the corridors makes me think that all passengers have already fallen I discover, however, that the ship stops in port for an unknown unknown, and that most of the passengers on the aft deck . I ask, a little shameful for my ignorance, to the Italians, information on the site, and so I come to discover that the ship is stopped by several hours at Sifo, one of the Cyclades that first meet coming from Piraeus, to a serious damage to engines . Perhaps, they say, will arrive in Rhodes this evening.
Later you depart.
The day runs slower among many stops in many ports. Among them there is also Patmos. From the bridge we Stavros, our friend the fisherman, who greets us with his hand.
And so on, until the evening, seeing scroll our route along the islands, almost all of us a note. On all of them have the memory of a mooring, an evening spent in a tavern, a serene beach. Remember the faces of people of simple, serene, so different from those we encounter in everyday life.
A Rhodes is that we arrive late and we are accompanied by taxi to a hotel. Deposited luggage before entering the old town in search of a restaurant.
Rhodes is still full of tourists.

Sunday 1st October. Marmaris.
Finally we are back here. Today is Sunday and we can not do anything other than putting in place the boat and walk on the streets of the city.
M. acknowledge a troublesome itching arms and body. Think might be an allergic reaction due to the stress of recent weeks.

Monday, October 2. Marmaris.
Haluk we show the work done on board. Everything seems ok. variamo and do perform the customs clearance directly from the site. Let's make a little money. Now we have learned. Our purchases to replenish the galley are becoming more frugal .. It is enough for the day, a handful of olives, cheese and bread.
Usually, at night, we go to eat in some tavern.

Tuesday, October 3. From Marmaris to Cala Kapi. 40 miles
We start around 10.00 and calm sea and little wind. It always goes to the engine and the main sail, hoisted, only serves to give us the illusion that we are still on a sailing ship. Rehearsing before our eyes the shores of Anatolia already known to us, until Baba all'isolotto Ada. From here onwards we do not know the coast that we have said, be interesting both for nature and for history. We are, in fact, off the coast of 'old Licia, whose tombs characteristics, can be seen along the banks, and sometimes emerge from the sea as a result of ancient bradyseism.
Set in the evening and we still arrive at your destination. Kapi is set behind a very well protected that you can reach a doubling peninsula. Now it is dark and between the mainland and an island, a narrow and deep channel is realized only in the phosphorescence of the water. Behind the peninsula coastline, elevated and wooded, hides at the sight of several small creeks that can be seen only when the boat is to cross them. The bay is well protected and the feeling of being in a mountain lake. . The sudden appearance of the bottom of the falls Kapi, glittering with lights. They feel too friendly voices of many people, presumably sitting at the table. Divided between the regret of not being alone to enjoy these places and the need to break the day lived in solitude, anchoring a Moletto and we, we, for one of several tables. The tavern, near the sea, it looks like a club atmosphere. Several crew, northern accents, laughter. From a boat leaving a disco music. Figures carved into the background of the starry sky, wave your arms and sway. So it wastes a great landing humble in banality of a summer anywhere fashion ..
M. is suffering. The arms and body are covered with small red dots. Fear could be chicken pox.

Wednesday, 4 October 2000. Kapi-haul Isolotto of Gemiliano. 15 miles.
Early in the morning we visit a poor village a couple of miles dall'approdo. It must first climb a small hill and then get to a plateau that, two sides, overlooking the sea. The houses, if that can be defined by walls erode heterogeneous repaired roofs of rusty sheet metal, are distant from each 'other, almost shameful to be seen by neighbors. The poverty of their inhabitants is living inside of isolated families, looking to dodge one another, fearful of granting poor. A spontaneous warmth and hope welcomes tourists (not only) within the property, unnecessarily and briefly fenced. We are offered tea and women shed the show, proud, their wool industries. The children, with names unknown, occhieggiano behind the wide skirts-pants of the mothers and grandmothers. Have beautiful eyes, timid and full of curiosity about the alien. We buy, for granted courtesy skillfully made compulsory, a pair of price and babbucce boutique. One million Turkish lira, in addition to the sweets of children make happy the clumsy grandmother, who, laughing, continued to repeat "bonbon, bonbon," indicating that the grandchildren, now, just more daring appear.
Cala Kapi leave with a good bread baked in wood.
A 20 miles from here there is the famous ölü Deniz, the sea dead.
Sail in light winds across the Gulf of Fethiye. The day is beautiful and if it were not for the malaise of M. we could fully appreciate. When we turn around and we head Iblis the remains of the Byzantine city which stood on Gemiliano. Between this and the mainland are well protected a channel that already moored boats. Underwater, caressed by the movement of the algae, are the remains of ancient walls. Are, were, that the case bradyseism, or maybe an earthquake, has submerged. They continued on to the coast to the ridge of the hill. The apse of a church is the most glaring findings and also the most important. Approaches us a crop that provides us with ice cream and another that offers cakes prepared expressly boat on a primitive wood-burning stove.
We go ashore for a drink and know the owner of the first of the three taverns. He speaks French has long worked in Marseille and tells us a little 'of the city's history.
Gemiliano is the birthplace of St. Nicholas, (to become the Nordic Santa Claus) and 'the patron saint of Bari where his body arrived, miraculously, brought by the waves.
Later, we visit the ruins of the ancient city. The attendant recognizes us to Italy and tells us that other Italians (those of the TV broadcast "Tourists by chance") have already been there. Good people, and said no doubt.
In the evening we reach the second of the three taverns. We are the only guests, but surrounded by the thoughtful care of 'whole family of Tavernier.
M. is always suffering. Appears to be getting worse.

Thursday, October 5. Island Gemiliano - ölü-Deniz Kalkan - 27 miles.
We start in the calm of a sunny morning to visit the famous bay of ölü Deniz, immediately behind the dock. Surely the place and very nice, shame that we can not enter. Passing a small promontory there appears a broad beach, on the left side, broke into a narrow passage. Access is blocked by a network supported by buoy and there is a pleasant bay, and many sunbeds. The wide beach seems very touristy. We approach the most feasible and descend to earth to do cambusa. The town is rather crowded and many souvenir shops, bus and going and going. We have already too many. Just as long as necessary for our small purchases and start without any regret. The weather is always beautiful and very moving motor. M. increasingly suffering, rest in bunk.
Around 11 the wind gets up and reinforce. We on our way and upwind. With three or four more edges we take off. The coast, where stood the ancient Patara has a long and deep stretch of sand, according to Haluk, is subject to strong tides. Dangerous for navigation, gives us the proof showing that the recent wreck of a sailboat aground and semisommersa. After a rocky dubbed opens before us the Bay of Kalkan and the wind increases to the point of having to reef the mainsail and genoa. The operation is not easy because the rullafiocco hangs and you need to lower hand while, below, the gusts become intense. A small Swiss ketch is also in difficulty maneuvering back and forth as to want to save time. We also see a 14 meter flying the German flag at the hood with apparent problems ahead.
In addition to the starboard shroud, low spring and starts to beat. Fortunately M., who is at the helm, orza time and lets the wind on the left side thereby the effort on the remaining shroud. Turn the engine, and the mainsail caliamo entering port. We find easily. We are pretty reliable and as we wind back slowly into the small boat Cheil German Swiss ketch towed by a vessel.
M. is increasingly ill. Small bubbles are spread everywhere and the itching has increased. We are somewhat concerned, but notwithstanding this we go to visit the country. Kalkan is placed at the foot of a hill and consists of a group of old folk and buildings spread over three or four lanes where negoziettti face with any type of mercazia for tourists. There is a lot of people and everything seems pleasingly hospitable. Dinner in a restaurant where we serve a stew of meat cooked in a sealed Orcio that you must break in order to eat the contents. What is more interesting flavor.

Friday, October 6. Kalkan.
M. too is suffering to continue the journey. We decide to stay here to rest and seek medical attention. The nearby boat, a former nurse pediatrician, who may not be chicken pox, but can not diagnose anything. Do we give a doctor and go to find it. L 'outpatient and quite new and with a few items that indicate a certain willingness to give modernity in the study. The doctor, however, is not so professional. Looks more like a carpet merchant. Note the erythema of M., his hair and safely render its decision: scabies. Prescribes a shampoo. Perplexed we buy, but we are still not happy that this is a pox.
In the afternoon we rented a car and go to visit the ruins of Patara. The ancient port city from which St. Paul embarked for Rome, and now hold up, as all the ancient sites. The beach is very beautiful, deep and long. Today, a difference of how I saw the first time, is also equipped with deckchairs and parasols. Fortunately that is all for the vast majority remains deserted. Of Patara remains romantically clear the theater (part sand) and the arch of triumph built for himself and his family by the Governor (the name escapes me) in the province
Roman. Stands solitary in a field of sesame and is surrounded by tombs licie sporadic.
We also note that peasants trebbiano hand sesame plants. It beat the ears on a sheet of nylon and the pods dry out small brown seeds.
Xantos reach, the ancient capital of the region, producer of famous horses, mentioned by Homer, is located halfway up in the elevated position and overlooking the wide and fertile plain. The river itself and from the water yellow (hence its name and the city) runs lazy and full of meanders in the valley at the foot of the Acropolis. Interesting theater and two monumental tombs.
A night in Kalkan, we dine in a typical restaurant where he plays a trio of musicians.
One of them sings with passion ancient grounds. Seated "Turkish" on rugs, colorful pillows between us leave seize suggestion of singing silent and listen to the incomprehensible and heartfelt words.

Saturday October 7. Kalkan.
M. does not improve and still remain in port. The day passes slowly mentr'ella lies in bunk and suffering. The "scab" increasingly resembles a "crab" the doctor. Long phone calls and your family doctor leads to identify the disorder as an allergy or a erpes stress.
Dinner in the room again yesterday.
Return to find a wedding feast held on the esplanade of the port. There is music and dancing. We dragged the rhythm of tambourines and stringed instruments and we are dancing too. There are two distinct groups of dancers: that men and women. Are dominated, for each part, by the two spouses. The newly-weds is pretty. Tall, brunette, dressed in white is surrounded by the companions of all ages. Even the groom is at the core of the group of men. Among them are dancing very engaged in their role, the kids. The two groups rarely mix, but the division has no binding character. E 'a spontaneous reaction from a condition that had the ancient custom in the past is purely categorical separation between the sexes.
Dance for over an hour, shaking and swaying sinuous arms above their heads, continually changing partners to dance a little 'with everyone. M. receives a romantic courtyard and a series of eleven that occurs in the knees, large arm gestures and intense eyes conquerors. I have my little dancer. Possessed in his gesturing above his head and wiggle of the hips, is willing to make pair sets with me .. And around us, seated on chairs of several files, the "elders" of the two families observe compass.
You go to bed late. Tomorrow we reach Finike where there is a modern marina equipped to leave the boat. We have, in fact, decided to interrupt his journey. Except in a few moments M. too is suffering to enjoy the sea and how these places deserve.

Sunday October 8. Kalkan - Finike. 22 miles
Let the tranquil port of Kalkan remember that for better or for worse. The weather is good and with little wind. But to this we are prepared. We have abandoned the zone of the Meltemi, we are no longer in the Aegean. The coast is always very nice and after a few hours we spend in front of Kastellorizo (Meysti). M. rests below. Better this way, the images of the Mediterranean film may remain intact in their memory. The reality is less attractive. Some modern buildings that you see in the country, ruining the romantic fantasy that the film we had passed. We have experienced the most sincere in our wander among the islands, more real and closer to those recounted in the film.
Kekova the name of the village in the afternoon that we see on our left. We have entered into an arm of the sea bordered on one side by a long island and the other enclosed by the circle of low wooded mountains. Crossing the bay surprised by the vision of nature and the memories left by the past of mankind. The village is dominated by an acropolis where ancient ruins are laminated. The battlements of a castle about crusaders while large stones at the base of the powerful walls tell of the "sea peoples" of achei of dori. Some tombs licie, similar to medieval sarcophagi, run along the sides of the hill. All appear to violate ancient looters. A hole on the side of the burial, just below the heavy lid, denouncing the burglary of the finder of treasures. Who knows what will ever find the ancient thieves? Certainly something valuable enough to justify the fury with which all the tombs have suffered the same fate. Viewed from a distance seem gigantic cocoons of butterflies from larvae abandoned now become adult. Or maybe it was the souls of dead warriors, or kings or principles that have rejected the distress of the sarcophagus after that, life had ranged between these mountains and these shores without borders.
And our boat, driven now by a breeze in the garden, allow scroll through these shores where we re, will return next year. . The decision to discontinue the journey affects our willingness to fully enjoy the atmosphere and nature.
Leaving again in the open sea the wind strengthens and Gattadapelare sliding quickly towards Finike. At a few hundred meters from the famous experiment coup boom. The "bomata", as all bomate, takes me to treason and makes me kneel, knock, in the well. Fearing to lose the senses called M. that is appropriate now, "hen" worried and unaware of his illness. The coast, very close, it's just been touched. Under the guidance of the more secure "legendary" according to enter port and moored in English.
The marina of Finike is fairly large and recently built. We are definitely off-season, there are other teams around.
The tourist town with vague, stretched on a modern seafront, but does not leave us excited. E 'for us just a technical step in our travels.

Monday, October 9. Marmaris.
Completed the usual formalities to leave the boat in Turkey, let's arrangements for lifting and book a taxi to take us away to Marmaris to 16.30 today. From there a Dolphin us in Rhodes. Three hours are spent traveling by car back to the coast that we had seen off the boat yesterday. E 'curves across a road and extremely slow. In fact, we arrive late for boarding and that we have to wait until the next ferry. But it is not good day. A violent storm crashes somewhere our second chance to boarding. Finally, when we see it enter the bay, wrapped in a deep twilight, are already 18:30. The trip to Rhodes is between huge waves and bubbling, while the craft is flying over the sea violently. Wherever passengers "vomit." Rhodes finally moored in fact it is dark. We moved into an inn in the center and go to dinner when almost all restaurants are closed. The sky is full of lightning and we are happy not to be by sea.

Tuesday, October 10. Rome.
Air at dawn and coinciding with the one in Athens to Rome. Like all returns there is sadness and fatigue, and even thought the 'used commitment "does not help us to be in a good mood.
However the appointment is in May 2001!