Tour of the rich nations of the Arabian Peninsula: United Arab Emirates and Oman

The journey begins in Dubai schizophrenic, divided between the city and its historical Deira Creek, and the exaggerated and ultramodern towers of the new business districts. Will then continue north through 3 other emirates to reach the wild and inhospitable landscape of Musandam, Oman enclave jutting into the Strait of Hormuz with its Khor (fjords) wedged between mountains that is almost inaccessible. Recrossed the emirates fall in the Sultanate of Oman Muscat with the peaceful and beautiful fishing villages of the south coast overlooking the Indian Ocean. Back in the desert region of Al Sharqiya with dunes Wahiba Sands, the fortified town of Nizwa, Bahla, Jibrin, Nakhal and Rustaq and spectacular country roads that cross the Jebel Shams which opens the Grand Canyon of Arabia. The crossing of the Hajar Mountains impossible on roads with slopes around 20%, surprising oasis of mountains and deepest gorges. Following the bed of Wadi Bani Awf back asphalt. Return to Dubai via Ibri and Al Ain. Stopover in Doha for a quick tour of the city, particularly the diplomatic district, with its skyscrapers and quaint old souk, which proved a welcome surprise.
In 11 days we covered 3000 km. Cost: about 1250 euros per person, including airfare and car rentals. A journey marked by an extreme sense of security and calm in any situation and place, if we make exception for the reckless car ride on the dunes of Wahiba Sands, where the adrenaline was heard.
The images of this trip: the men in white clothes and women veiled in black, the futuristic skyscrapers of Dubai and Doha, the crenellated castles and watchtowers, the designs of henna, dates, the dhow, the breathtaking landscapes of Hajar Mountains, the gorges in the beds of wadis, temperatures exaggerated, fjords (Khor) in the Musandam Peninsula, turtles and dolphins.
Top five: the mountain road of the Hajar Mountains and Wadi Awf Bani, the Musandam Peninsula, turtles in the nature reserve of Ras al Jinzo, Sur and the fishing villages of the south coast of Oman, the old souk in Doha .

Practical Information:
The Qatar Airways flight from Milan to Dubai with a stopover in Doha.
Cars rented on a budget: Book RAV 4, but with the up grade we got a Toyota Fortuner with automatic transmission, super comfortable even if the automatic transmission is not the best for driving on sand. Car rental cost about 90 eur / day. Speed limit in the UAE 120 km / h. Roads in good condition and fully reported. In the budget we have provided for the additional insurance to travel to Oman.
A little too high temperatures between 40 º and 45 º. No problem to find accommodation even not having booked anything, most of the hotels were empty.
Cooking: restaurants are predominantly Indian and Lebanese cuisine, but in the main centers can also find international cuisine. Excellent fresh fruit juices, on each side.
Better pay by credit card to have a more advantageous exchange rate. In smaller restaurants and shops should instead pay in cash.
Currency:
UAE: UAE Dirham (AED) 1 EUR = 5.23 AED
Oman: Omani Riyal (OR) = 0.55 OR 1 EUR
Qatar: Qatari Rial (QR) 1 EUR = 5.30 QR


The trip:
September 28, 2009; Mon
Milan-Dubai
Flights with Qatar Airways from Malpensa to Dubai with a stopover in Doha left Milan at 22h50 on time, on-board service is excellent, half-empty plane, you can lie down and nap. 5h 50 raggungere Doha flight (1 hour ahead of Italy, at 6 am we are already around 37 º temperature. At the 7:55 a.m. flight to Dubai, one hour flight and 1 hour ahead of Qatar (2 in more than Italy).
The flight cost us 330 per head (including insurance).
September 29, 2009, Tuesday
Dubai and its
Airport customs practices are quick and efficient, we retrieve the car at the budget, and not pleasantly surprised when they have the RAV 4 booked us with a Toyota Fortuner 4x4 7 seats. We will travel by real nabobs. The impact with the 42 º on the morning of Dubai reminds us that we have moved considerably to the south, our salvation is air-conditioned car. The Dubai airport is located in the heart of the city, indeed it seems that the city has developed around the airport. The planes passed within a few tens of meters above the freeways and over the towers of the skyscrapers, most of which are still under construction. Our program now includes a scenic ride to Dubai, we see the souks of Deira, the famous creek and the dhow with its new commercial area. Just a few miles in the crowded streets leading to the Deira and Bur Dubai to the new shopping area, to understand that the city is a huge building site, in every corner of ongoing work to build a road, a new skyscraper, a subway or just to demolish what already existed, even though we are told that in most sites the work was suspended, again the crisis is felt and foreign investment now coming in fits and starts. The directions are excellent and the city is quite easy to go if it were not for the intense traffic blocked by the endless traffic lights.
Airport Road, Deira we focus on, then we move to the side of the creek and the main souk, cross the bridge over the creek and we are in Bur Dubai, the endless towers of the commercial are our reference points to orient in urban traffic. We reach the Trade Center and decide to install the Ibis Hotel which offers very attractive prices and excellent value for money (320 AED for a double, about 60 usd). Left luggage at the hotel we refreshed the Noodle House is located in Emirates Towers, before continuing our tour of Dubai. Pass between the major business centers in the world Mall of the Emirates with the amazing ski resort in the desert, the Burj Dubai, with its incredible 800 meters is the tallest skyscraper in the world. Then reach Jumeirah, where stands the famous Burj Arab, the 7-star hotel shaped wing that has become the symbol of Dubai, we are content to see its shape from the outside as a room in this hotel range from 3500 to 35 000 euro per night, and who can afford it?
The Bizzaro emirs not end here, with the sun is setting behind the silhouette of the Burj Arab glimpse mirage as the silhouette of towers and lace sticking out of the sea, we aim to reach the south and Palm Jumeirah, the apartment complex from the Arabian a night built on an island completely artificial palm-shaped, the apex of the palm is dominated by a majestic entrance door complete with towers and turrets, but where are they? The atmosphere is fairytale. Returning to Dubai and the company is not easy trying to find a parking space near the creek after a good half hour desist and we slip in a parking silos. Deira is the traditional commercial center of the Persian Gulf where throngs of stevedores moving busily loading and unloading all kinds of goods from traditional dhow in its souk prosperous African women are supplying all kinds of goods which then load the ships with the different fate African countries. We arrive at the spice souk almost closing time, there is still time to stock up on dates stuffed with walnuts, dried figs flavored licorice

 

We get to the spice souk almost closing time, there is still time to stock up on dates stuffed with walnuts, dried figs flavored licorice, pistachios, almonds, cashews. These treats will accompany us in the next days travel. We walk along the creek, the evening becomes very attractive with illuminated boats that cross it and the silhouettes of minarets and skyscrapers in the distance. Yet sated for hearty lunch of the Noodle House we are satisfied with a chavarma in a booth on a busy street of Deira, is almost 23 and after night in air is perhaps the case back to the hotel and take a deserved rest.

September 30, 2009, Wednesday
Dubai - Sharjah - Ajman - Ras al Kaimah - Khasab (Oman)
The night Ibis has been as true dreams of gold in the morning then Fit for the temperature, traffic and transfer to the Musandam Peninsula.
Just 12 km from downtown Dubai Sharjah emirate is already another, we stop to visit the Heritage Village, almost historic old town that was completely renovated and survives with its wind towers almost encompassed by the surrounding skyscrapers. A visit to the museum of calligraphy and a stop at the Souk Al Arsa where we enjoy tea on the sofas in the main square. A walk on the corniche challenging the more than 40 º where the movement of dhows and does not seem to stop taking the road north, passing two other Emirates: Ajman and Ras al Kaimah better known as RAK. Stop for lunch at Al Ras al Kaimah Sahara restaurant, which serves an excellent medium. In RAK we also supply the first fuel price of 0.25 euro per liter surprising. Turned out that in Oman the gas is still cheaper than € 0.20 per liter, incredible!
RAK is about 30 km from the border with the Omani enclave of Musandam. At the border crossing formalities are simple and quick, you have to pay a fee to exit the UAE (25 AED / person) and an entrance fee in the Sultanate of Oman (6 OR / person). Warning that the fee can be paid for Oman exclusively by credit card, because customs officers are not allowed to receive cash. From Khasab border there are about 40 km of a very scenic road, unfortunately the night has arrived, but we'll make the return. There are currently 4 Khasab Hotel, Golden Tulip is located in a panoramic position (900 AED double), the Khasab Hotel (750 AED apartment with 2 double), the Lake Hotel (a little sad) and Esra Hotel (600 AED apartment with 2 doubles). We installed it at the foot of the mountains of Musandam, good service, courtyard with pool and restaurant. We have dinner at Al Allah with a great grilled fish. At the Hotel booked the trip dhow in Al Khor area, half day OR 15 / person, full day OR 20 / person, we opt for the half day.

October 1, 2009, Thursday
Khasab - Khasab
The dhow trip to Telegraph Island begins at 9:00 a.m.. We are 10 on the dhow, with all the comforts. Leaving the bay of the port we are joined by a group of dolphins escorted us deep into the Khor. After passing the village of reach Qanah Telegraph Island, so called because the British settled here a telegraph station which makes the link between India and Goa in Basra in Iraq. Diving around the island, the underwater nothing special, but many fish, parrots, fish angel. Water is a clear broth. Come back again escorted by dolphins, lunch at Al Allah and in the afternoon excursion to Khor Najd. Once on the road construction, abandoned after six miles and climbs mountains reaching a step 500 meters with a great view Khor below. Dizzying descent 2, 8 km to 20% interest for mountain biking!
In the evening we were invited by Mohamed (the boy in the dhow) to the wedding of her sister, the wedding will be tomorrow and the preparations which began a few days culminate tonight with the Mehndi ceremony. Songs and dances, tea, coffee bombom. The bride is now occupied by a few hours in the decoration of arms, hands and feet with henna, clearly room access is allowed only to women, in the meantime we are stuffed with peanuts from Fatima and sister and bombom, which is not never melt.
According to the Lonely Planet Bukh Castle restaurant is frequented by smugglers in Iran. Curious to experience this anthropological and convinced that the restaurant is located Bukh we shoot the 26 km of coastal road, then discover that the restaurant is located in the old souk of Khasab a few dozen meters from the house of Mohamed. Stuff happens when you forget the guide at the hotel. A Bukh, however there is a take away some falafel el'immancabile fried chicken. We return to the Hotel over the afternoon.

October 2, 2009, Friday
Khasab - Sohar
Our original plan was to walk the mountains of Musandam and cross the border with the UAE in Dibba. Khasab to inform us rather than this border is open only to Oman and to the Emirates, but is closed to foreigners.
Unwilling to give up the enchanting landscapes of the Musandam we decided to take the road to Jebel Harim (the mountain of women) continue to the police station and retrace our steps again to reach Khasab, the border post Tibat, RAK Dibba and finally, so our route stretching 180 kilometers. The mountain road that winds through canyons of Musandam to reach 1600 meters pitch is lovely, down on the opposite side as well. Return to the Emirates, this time no fee, we reach the east coast of the UAE, transiting Dibba, Fujairah and the new border post to return to Oman, again leaving the UAE and charge tax on entry into Oman (again payable only credit card). The area between Dibba and Fujairah is very characteristic, round the roads are characterized by strange sights, complete with coffee cups, incense burners, jugs, daggers, chests full of treasures and so on and so forth.
Dinner and overnight at Wadi Hotel Sohar, situated in a convenient location next to the freeway to Muscat (49 OR dual).

October 3, 2009, Saturday
Sohar - Muscat-Muttrah
You move into Muscat, reachable in about 2 hours on a dual carriageway. The Marina Hotel (35 double-OR) Muttrah located in a strategic position opposite the fish market and a short walk from the souks of Muttrah, turns out to be below expectations, dirty rooms, not beds remade, service slow and not very professional. Highly recommended, at least until they change direction and management. Still leave the luggage at the Marina, Muttrah surprises us with its frame with marble floors and granite walls, which stand sculptures of dolphins and the gold-domed gazebo under which the Omanis enjoy the bustle of dhows and boats in the harbor Muttrah. The souk at Muttrah is a labyrinth of covered streets, which converge in some central places. Around 13 shops in the souk closed and all we have to abandon a brilliant mango juice before driving towards Muscat.
Located about 3 km from Muttrah, Muscat welcomes us with its majestic entrance doors. Dormant in the hot afternoon seems like a ghost town, the marble polished mirror of the access road to the palace of the sultan and immaccolate city streets seem almost unreal. Another huge door located in a tunnel leads to the port area where you can enjoy a view of the sultan's palace and the two forts of Al Jalali and Al Mirani that guard the entrance to the port. Haunted easy from over 40 º take refuge in air-conditioned rooms (perhaps too) Bayt al Zubair museum that allows us to get an idea of the historical and cultural heritage of Oman, with jewelry, costumes, handicrafts and furniture. Crossed the door of the old town to return to Muttrah to complete the visit of the souk. The juices Wing Ahli Coffee shop, located in central souk, they are really up to the situation and allow us to stay a pleasant one to watch the lively streets of the souk, which are filled evening of black silhouettes of women who dwell in fabric stores and gaudy jewelry.

October 4, 2009, Sunday
Muttrah-Muscat - Ras al Hadd
The minarets and mosques there near the Marina Hotel, is still dark when the call of the muezzin echoes in the air for the first prayer. I get up early and head to the fish market, refrigerated vans waiting outside. Within busy sellers seem overwhelmed by all types of fish, a bout of overloaded carts, follow their journey back and find myself on the pier. The dhows were now replaced by fast boats fibroresina, but the ritual of unloading and auctioning is maintained. Stopping on the pier a dozen people when a boat approached the group moves to observe the result of fishing, the fish are dumped on the floor, eyes, experts carry out a counting and a quick mental calculation of the proper price, the auctioneer begins to writhe and scream different offers. The game is done, the buyer pays the fisherman, the percentage to the auctioneer, shippers and start stuffing their carts to the market, the group sits down waiting for the next boat. Barracuda, large sharks, skipjack, and other kinds of fish are unloaded on the dock and disappear very quickly to the market.
Breakfast at the Marina Hotel and suffered again to Sur. With the new highway route is now very easy, but to abandon Fins to reenter the asphalt on the old coastal trail that winds through creeks and wadis with a panoramic views. Unfortunately the work of the new coastal highway is the old broken in several places and thus no longer passable. Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi were somewhat transformed by the pylons of the motorway, but the glance remains substantial. Sur reach in time for lunch, and a nice fishing town characterized by the presence of the dhow yards, where you can discover the secrets of Carpenters and marquetry. The light of late afternoon on the lagoon makes the atmosphere very magical and fascinating. Reach Ras al Hadd and the sun setting behind the towers of the castle, there install the Ras Al Hadd Beach Hotel (42 double-OR), located at a lagoon on a beach miles almost uncommon in the hot afternoon. Tonight the moon is full and we arrange for a visit to the beach at Ras al Jinzo, a nature reserve where there's about 35 000 turtles a year to spawn. This tour is led (OR 3 per person) and leaves at 21.00 from a monstrous building at the entrance of the beach. Why such a mess in a nature reserve?
The beach is a spectacle, every inch occupied by a nest of turtle and, although it is not peak season, not long to find a turtle in lay near other turtles are preparing to leave the beach and a myriad of small sprout sands paw and head towards the sea. The full moon makes the show already sublime, even more charming. I take a strong emotion when I see small turtles disappear in the ocean waves, an amazing spectacle of nature. How many of them could win this beach between 35 or 40 years, having wandered the oceans of the world to start their first deposition? Mohamed, the guide has the answer ready: 2-3%. After the dolphins we saw tonight Musandam another great show.

October 5, 2009, Monday
Ras al Hadd - Wahiba Sands (Al Sharqyia desert)
It starts on the south coast overlooking the Indian Ocean, crossing a series of small fishing villages and Bedouin, very characteristic. The women in this area lead colored veils over tunics decorated with silver embroidery. We are left to wander around the streets where every corner gives you an image, women who cover their faces quickly, girls who hide behind a wall, unlike kids who come to meet us, smiling, goat and sheep doze in the shade acacia. Al Ashkahrah reluctantly abandon the coastal road, small villages are really fascinating and I he gladly. Levelling to the desert of Al Sharqyia, the first sand dunes begin to stand out on our left. Yesterday we called to book the Areesh camp tents for the night in the desert, not for fear of not finding the place, but you risk not finding anyone. Indeed, arriving discover that the only guests at the tented camp (20 OR per person including dinner and breakfast). Areesh The camp is situated on a series of dunes at the northern desert, our Toyota Fortuner with automatic none of it reaching the top of the dune where is the field after the third attempt to leave the driving to Bedouin ahead, and as a banquet that will still rising! Offers us a ride on the dunes by jeep to see the sunset, it takes little to understand that it will be a quiet walk on the dunes and wild descents but climbs up and down the slopes of the dunes! A little bit of adrenaline can not hurt. Relax on chairs overlooking the desert waiting for the moon ideas on us, dinner and again the calm of the desert, some Bedouin village in the distance.

October 6, 2009, Tuesday
Wahiba Sands (Sharqyia the desert) - Nizwa
We leave the desert with a sense of calm and relaxation. Supporters of the cause of sustainable tourism acquisitive oggettino some Bedouin women are completely covered by the mask (burqa) traditional of this region, which saw the entrance of the tented camp. Let the tracks and resume sanded asphalt strip in the direction of Nizwa, the historical city, which strong and Unesco.
We opt to install the Majan Guest House in Firq (about 5 km from Nizwa) (25 OR for double), surely one of the best in value for money.
We dedicate the end of the morning to visit the Fort of Nizwa, braving temperatures almost impossible. Transfer Bahla, outside visit the forts of Bahla and Jebrin and souks of Bahla where you can still find craftsmen silversmiths. Return to Nizwa souk where the continuous closed. What hours do they do? A faithful chavarma in open-air restaurant overlooking the strong and the mosque.

October 7, 2009, Wednesday
Nizwa - Jebel Shams - Hajar Mountains - Biled Sayt - Al Rustaq - Nakhl - Nizwa
The path now requires crossing the Hajar Mountains is one of the most rugged and isolated Oman. Let the road from Nizwa to Bahla to head towards Jebel Shams, the first paved road runs through the valley floor repeatedly Wadi Ghul, locally called the Grand Canyon of Arabia. After the first ramp to 20% of the asphalt ends and you continue on a white track, but in good condition, only the slopes are a little extreme. Before reaching the peak deviation to the right leads to a small village and a number of fields located on the very edge of the Canyon. Too bad the haze will not allow a full view of the valley below. Retracing our steps and head toward Hatt and the mountain road that runs through the Hajar mountain range to reach Wadi Bani Awf. The paved road climbs up the step, then gives way to a track cut into the mountainside that swoops down on the village of Hatt. Crossing beautiful landscapes and mountains from unstable boulders, fortunately these parts rararmente rains. We dare not think what we can turn this track during the rains. Coming to cross one of the many Falaj Hatt, the old pipes that allow you to carry water to several miles in the desert in Oman are about 4000 km of these man-made water systems. Hatt over the road seems to get lost in the various cracks that start in the mountains, we pass some pools of water in the bed of Wadi and reach the turning on the left Biled Sayt. The village appears in its quiet beauty, with its mud-brick houses, perched on the side of the valley with fresh oasis below. As we are far from the skyscrapers of Dubai's incredible! Biled Sayt left behind us cross the mouth of the Snake Gorge and reach the Wadi Bani Awf, the track is very scenic and almost runs into the Wadi bed in some sections between high walls. This area is incredibly popular, popping everywhere homes of Bedouins who engage in herding and farming in the oases. Some carry the jeep taxi to these remote areas. Accompanying the Wadi Bani Awf afaltata regained the road about 11 km from Al Rustaq, it's nearly 4 pm and a certain weariness is felt. In Rustaq are the usual Indian restaurant with the usual rice biryami, this time with some more spice to vary. However, goes well, these haunts are frequented mainly by workers in India, Pakistan and Nepal and are extremely economical (OR 1 to 1.2 for a plate of chicken biryami). The fort of Rustaq closes at 16 and then nothing inside visit, same thing goes for the strong Nakhal, which is still very attractive. Night falls and we complete our tour in a circle back to Nizwa, passing virtually a few kilometers from Muscat. Dinner Firq, open-air restaurant a couple of miles from Majan Guest House.

October 8, 2009, Thursday
Nizwa - Ibri - Dubai
Today stage of transfer back to Dubai. Let's however for Ibri with its old fort still not restored and perhaps that is a certain charm in more than others a little too perfettini. We reach the border between Oman and UAE about ten km upstream of Al Ain. Border formalities smoothly and way to reach Dubai around noon. We install new Ibis who has since lowered the price (double the 289 AED), and in fact the Hotel's prices change from day to day and are related to activities carried out in contiguous Trade Center. Packed usually Noodle House and then think of making a jump to the new souk Al Sharjah, which is about 15 km from downtown Dubai, but we see at our expense that 15 miles per hour peak mean column about two hours . In return for the return to the souks of Deira employ only 15 minutes. Last evening visit the spice souk and around and back to the hotel, because tomorrow morning early rising, check-in at the airport at 4!


October 9, 2009; Friday
Dubai - Doha - Milan
Dall'Ibis airport at 4 am are only 5 minutes away, could be more than an hour at peak times. Hour flight and landed in Doha, we have a break of about 6 hours and then they take the opportunity to visit the city. Customs formalities, you'll pay an entry QR 100 per person (EUR 18), we retrieve a map of the city and find a nice taxi driver for 60 QR (12 eur) scarrozza us a panoramic tour of the city. Belongs to the blue taxi company operating the airport and then discover that owned the chairman of Qatar. We start from the Corniche, the Islamic museum (unfortunately closed since Friday), the diplomatic district, with its futuristic skyscrapers. The crisis is also felt here and all the yards have been suspended, most aisatici workers, unemployed or repatriated. Then we reach the famous skyscraper zigzag seems built to defy the laws of gravity. We pass next to the residence of the President, the tennis courts where you land in a few weeks the tournament in Doha. A pleasant surprise is the old souk, completely renovated, but retains its traditional charm, with its themed neighborhoods. The main street lined with bars, small restaurants and craft shops and then the streets of spices, fabrics of the pan, ending in the area for small animals, mainly birds, parakeets, but also cats and rabbits. You can find here the most amazing birds, feathers curled with majestic hills, real rarity. Return airport and boarding the flight to Milan.
Some veiled women on the plane as soon as shed headscarves and black robes and reappear in jeans and t-shirt completely Westernized, this is the contrast of these countries.