Yemen: the Arabia Felix... San'a

This is one of the most beautiful I have ever visited, perhaps the most beautiful in many ways.
But remember, always look for support on the ground, because it is not a country where it is easy to make the do-it-yourself.

 

There is only one flight per week to and from Yemen to come from Rome, then I am more or less to wake up at dawn to go to Linate and take a flight that will bring me comfort in the capital. My appointment with Anna is in Fiumicino noon.
As soon as I wake up my only problem is to check the status of the snow. Fortunately does not seem to be falling much yet, so I will manage to Linate rather serene.
The mythical MD80 Alitalia I expected, but before you take off is subjected to frost treatment. From a bored little man starts to spray with little conviction that kind of foamy soap and on the wings, giving a fleeting controllatina to the aircraft, giving the pilot permission to takeoff.
The flight is short, just the time to do a race with another plane that is landing on the runway parallel to our fought for half a second and we touch the ground on the seashore. The appointment with Anna, who has already arrived, is at Terminal C, I am to the car. There is no sign indicating where you should go. I also have to try a bank transfer because I do boarding passes to their final destination and do not find it. Stroll around and nothing. Name is Anna and nothing. I discover that she too is desperate because he is looking for a reference point. In the end, almost to the last, I ask a lady who graciously shows me where to get the dealer to check-in with the Yemen. This is a small table hidden behind a column, behind the newsstand, however ... .. Ah!
I ask that I allocate a seat with the window, all happy because sorvolerò Africa, but of course there's the window, accidentally were only 4 seats in the middle, sull'ali. What nerve.
The flight is quiet, me and Anna do friendship with Richard and Nicola, two guides 12 and Kel Ancient Splendours. We stopped soon, because the plane is in turmoil, we finally reached the coast of Africa and all around to see the Egyptian desert. Richard gave me his window, so did this route so many times that knows by heart. I look a little 'of the Nile, a little' of the Red Sea trying to establish with Riccardo cataract which we are going through (we decide is the 4th) and then come back to my sad post. Soon to landing, the flight is only 5 hours.
E 'buio, are about 19 and landed without problems in Sana'a, the capital of Yemen at 2250 meters above sea level. The journey to the hotel is strange, the city around me, I know so much about dejà vu, reminds me a little 'the outskirts of Trapani, a po' Amman in Jordan ... Can I have all these visions? There have already been in a past life?
We close our bedroom windows armored somewhat 'sad and expect it to arrive the next day.

Today with our guide Sheriff, the Sheriff said, a very self-confident that seems to be half man and has also participated in "the case for tourists," he un'escursione in Marib area, the area of kidnapping for excellence. It does not make distinction of nationality, even if the preferred prey seem to be British, and American diplomats.
We are precisely in the Rub al Khali, better known as the empty quarter, virtually the desert in this country.
This area is on the border with Saudi Arabia, the only area of the oil-rich Yemen, where there are some rebels who are rather excited by the Saudis to move away and ensure that this area is rich in wells adjacent to the already rich Arabia. In short, the abductions are just a political and monetary, to any matter to be damage to tourism or the tourists themselves. Simply must travel with a police escort and we should not take risks.
To tackle such a day we want a proper breakfast and behold I start with breakfast typical Yemeni-based spicy bean soup and bread and honey. Not bad, although some 'indigesta given time.
The day it seems pretty intense. We start with 4 jeeps numbered in series. Me and Anna, together with another Anna and her husband Stephen (the other 2 couples of combriccola) climb on the jeep flagship. Our driver is called Mohamed and simpaticissimo During these moments spent in the car, rather than looking at the landscape, we are intent on watching the road. The Yemenis furious driving like crazy. Basically you can decide whether to die crashed into a boulder on mountain roads, where you blow against the many trucks carrying fuel oil, or fly off the cliff in a bend another. What is more, especially in this area, are frequently interrupted by the military bloc. Mohamed, as Admiral, is to deliver to each block instead of a sheet of paper with our names and journeys. We are told by the Sheriff that this is a method of control anti-kidnapping. Virtually every tourist should be reported and if instead of blocking someone next to the missing, the alarm is triggered. The controls are a nightmare and photocopies of Mohamed seem never to end. Speaking of history and architecture, because that then is the purpose of the trip, we visit the Temple of the sun and moon, which the Arabs have sex invertititi and are in fact "the sun and the moon." I vaguely remember the flowers of the highway bridges since they are 7 square columns of reinforced concrete. Mahhh ... .. That's it? Thousands of years of history encapsulated in 7 blocks of cement?
Anna and I are very disappointed by the first impact with what for many has been described as the most beautiful in the world and try to console us with the first taste of qat. This is the "drug" locale, basically every country has its own legal and illegal on-site if exported. Being in fact a natural plant, not a drug, I decide to try it at the bottom of 4 salad leaves have never hurt anyone, right?. Well, it plainly, it's like to eat the leaves of a tree and I do not think that will produce special effects. It seems that to achieve the desired effects necessary for quintals chew for hours ....
In the afternoon we head towards the dam, the world's most famous. E 'of the 8th century a.c. irrigated and what is today the 4th yet. It seems to be a masterpiece of engineering and intelligence because of the structure and position, but honestly I have not even understood what was the 2 remained closed ... .. to me it seemed a useless pile of ruins. We should head towards the old city of Marib, destroyed by bombing, always accompanied by armed men. Me and Anna we deviate from the guide and decide to climb on top of one of these buildings in the city in ruins and abandoned bombed. We expect plans to about 4 feet in a building collapse risk and dilapidated, with dirt and debris inside, but it's worth it because the view is magnificent.
After delivery of 30 ° papyrus instead of blocking, we return to the hotel dusty

Today is dedicated to visiting the capital of Yemen, the Sana'a famous. Meanwhile, the abduction bulletin informs us that we have arrived at 5th Exactly where we were yesterday, has been kidnapped a German family of diplomats, but it is only a symbolic gesture, because the 5 are released immediately without problems.
Sana'a is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was in a ballot to become one of the wonders of the world in 2001. I do not know how the vote is over, what is certain is that this really is. It is worth getting on the Yemeni only to come up to here. At this point I decide which is the rest of Yemen, the capital is worth the trip. Try the same emotion you feel in a city like Venice or Pompeii, you hear the story, you're surrounded by art more extraordinary. And as if this were not enough shopping is great and very cheap.
In the old city, surrounded by walls and an old wadi, is worthy of a souk those Moroccans, indeed much better. There is a melting pot of roads where pressed like sardines paths between all premises and work that go to the market. You must be careful not to miss and not get carried away crowd crazy. There is a district where artisans are working iron and wood, where frames are made and sharpened the sabers without which the male yementi not ever leave the house, there is the area of spices with myrrh, incense, coffee, saffron, cardamom, and baskets of colorful spices indefinite, the area of textiles where selling colorful fabrics some 'too flash and in bad taste, (it seems the women in the Diving Bell yemenite black crow, as a reaction using vibrant colors impossible). Then there is the area of food, vegetables, and of course an entire neighborhood where the qat is sold, of course, is the most messed up.
It 'hard not to stop at every booth and purchase of lanterns, frames, colored boxes, spices, and it is unlikely that 12 people can stay compact. Anna at the end you lose ... fortunately that Yemeni people are very honest, reliable and friendly, it is saved by a child 12 years of Salida name that even comes in a call center to spread around the item you un'italiana is lost and ask the merchant where the group of Sheriff ... In less than 10 minutes she returns safely. Mythical Salida, deserves its prize.
We stop to drink tea with mint green walls, watching the moving-out of the city from the top and waiting for the dark. This city is magical.

Today we head towards the south of the country, near the tip of the Red Sea. We expect many interesting km to Hodeidah, and when you go by car, fun is always guaranteed.
Mohamed Unfortunately we must leave, the drivers are changed and we bounced on the jeep of a number 3 with the unpronounceable name. This type shows a huge dagger sticking in the belt on a front to a Yemeni. Not even if the lever to drive, because at the bottom with a lead of 30 cm knife stuck in the balls is more macho, is not it?
We go to visit a village called Al Hajjarah. E 'bellissimo, perched on the hill, with houses typical of Yemen and terraces planted just below. Explore this country forgotten by civilization but unfortunately we are attacked by the people who follow us to sell us necklaces, belts and disguised as Muslim Barbie. It 'frustrating. How did these people who live isolated from the world to become worse than the Egyptians who suffered for years from a large tourism?
The fault of the person? Tourists who gives sweets and pens to children, to the point that tourists now associate with these objects and call bon bon and kalam (pen) to Cantilena, perhaps without even knowing what they are?
Doing good is in fact made the greatest evil. The truth is that we should not ever make love in this way. The dignity is not ever ask, do not ask if you need and you will be given: this is the conclusion that we try to make, right or wrong that is.
Finally, since we are in Yemen, we eat in a restaurant. The cuisine of Yemen, contrary to what I expected, it is really striking. There is always a base of rice and mutton and chicken, but the dishes are the jumps (bean soup with over a intriguing green hay greek), bread like pitta, but 10 times bigger, sfoglioso thin vegetables cooked in the oven quite tasty, a sort of pan with potatoes, eggs and tomatoes and, dulcis in fundo, just a cake from exotic name "the girl on the plate." This is a type dough bake brioche dough with honey and poppy seeds above. Boys think essermene made 6 pieces, exceptional! At the end of lunch the women are involved in a dirty dancing (the dance of courtship) with boys yementiti. Unfortunately, dancing with all those lentils and slices of cake on the hunchback! And that fear because you dance with the saber in hand, but it is truly a unique moment. I really enjoyed.
We rely on the march, but 2 of our jeep, we do not see how they decide to crash together. Great fright, but luckily no wounded, only a great harm to self in smoke. Success was 100 meters longer than the 2 cars might end up without brakes in the cliff. Sheriff tries to throw water on the brake pads to try to recover the lost, but none to help because no one intends engine.
I-km and there are too many in the middle of the desert mountains nobody can help you. Fortunately the car again with no apparent problems apart from the blow. With a little 'difficulty and lack of 2nd accident, arrive at Hodeidah. The landscape is extraordinary and varied. We went from 2,500 m to the highlands, from the oasis with palm trees, the ravines such as todra in Morocco, from pre-Saharan landscape, to the savanna.
We are almost in Africa, on the coast, just in front of Eritrea and really seems to have changed the continent. First, climate change, we move from hot dry night, with temperature ranges of Sana'a in the warm humid and unbearable in Hodeidah. Even the appearance of population changes. Here it seems there has been an invasion of Abyssinia and Ethiopians, in fact the traits of the people because blacks are not more Arabian and women, though veiled, are dressed in veils and colorful flowers. Do you feel the smell of the sea which is a few meters from us. Seagulls fly high in the sky.
Housed in a hotel rather disturbing that does not see the light for years and a cleaning lady for centuries, but at least it is spacious. There is a lack of hot water, but in the end with that hot little evil .. We must get away from there and so we decide to go with Sheriff and Charles Seaside Narghile smoking.
E 'a fairy tale, the Red Sea is before us, the sky is full of stars, sipping tea with mint Narghile smoking a taste of the strawberry. Start a discussion in one direction on the Koran, women's rights, progress, stonings on Arabs and fundamentalists. Speeches very serious, but seen from 2 points of view completely opposite and irreconcilable.

We are at Hodeidah on the Red Sea and, being in a seaside town, we go to the fish market most famous of the country. It 'a show. There are the strangest fish drawn on the ground everywhere: sharks, fish, hammer, grouper, snapper, shrimp, etc.. The negotiations are grueling, the fishermen yelling everywhere, the vessels continue to arrive overflowing, the children fill the baskets to get the fish. Here we are in Africa, the boats are colorful, as the locals. We all enjoy watching. E 'un incanto.
After the fish market, with incredible un'afa and a sun that does not forgive, we reach Zabid, ILN where Pasolini seems to have shot the film "A thousand and one nights". According to this study is also the hottest place on earth, but is not complaining, because it is "only" winter (in summer I dare not imagine what it is) and sms according to my mother daily, on the Milan ve been going wrong to -5 ° with snow, is not it? In short, it is not right ... infierire.
The heat is not the only characteristic of this town, it seems that did the algebra here. Zabid is Heritage by UNESCO, is terribly decadent sin, who knows maybe restored, so I am a little 'thinking, although I admit that some do not know that .... A charm unique. I like.
In this village we visit the market chased by dozens of children who keep us in hand. In the end they discover that the ruffians tenendoti for making the hand and stroked to get buy a ball and be giving the usual kalam. Let the colors and scents of Africa back to Ta'izz. E 'December 31, the last of the year, who knows you are doing all of you in Italy ... .. I can hardly feel the atmosphere of the New Year. Here we are so far fully that it seems to me one day as another. I do not even know what day of the week is, but basically is what I want .... Ta'izz is a huge city. Anna and I do the tourists-do-it-yourself-no-Alpitour, because we understood that, despite what it says is the most tranquil and peaceful land and the fact that you are a woman alone in a Muslim country is not really that important, because you treated with respect, or at best ignored. There is a great respect for the tourist, especially Italian, and this because the old doctor dell'Imam was Italian and the Italians are participating in archaeological excavations and various works.
Anna and I will get to spin the old city for our events, buying non-stop fabric, tablecloths, baskets and perfume, negotiating up to the dire straits of forces. Not enough shopping for gifts, we decide to launch also on the cooking. Despite all the rules of good tourist who travels to countries' specific ', which does not plan to eat ice, raw vegetables, eggs, fresh food bought on the street in the stalls, we start to buy the trivial coffee, saffron and red fire sow (and so far so good), then, not happy, we are launching a whole fresh cheese, those which are sold on the ground and are in the midst of the dust and flies for instance. At the beginning are a little 'reluctant because it seems to me that the health of short, but since the cheese is fresh and perishable intrasportabile, we should eat the way with his hands already dirty dust, and who knows what else . I am very happy, cheese is a fable, I feel perfectly integrated in the journey, I am not a passive tourist, those who pass it and go without a trace, I feel an active and curious tourists. In the evening, thinking to make us a pleasure, the hotel will organize a dinner with a cake to celebrate the end of the year, not knowing that if people have chosen to spend New Year in Yemen does not have much interest in this holiday.
This fact is the 23 low. We decide to do another tour in the souk, where the shops are still open, to pull midnight. In an alley of the old market cross of children are playing football with a tennis ball and we are involved in the game. Italy begins the challenge-Yemen, adult-children. The challenge is tough and exhausting, children and skilful agilissimi and, incredible but true, they win.
Children are referred by parents, and we continue the tour. Are only 23:40, we are tired, but now has become a matter of principle, we have to pull the midnight! We go on the roof of the hotel, we order drinks of beer (the alcoholic can not drink), it's more like sparkling wine that we find and decide to go out on the terrace waiting for the arrival of the new year. Each has a clock that says otherwise ... .. one hour in short, midnight comes a 'coincidence ... ..

In the morning we go to a local market for Ibb. And 'perhaps the most beautiful I have visited, why is not tourism. In addition to the food here and sell livestock, cows, goats and camels. We are almost a stone taken from the girls because we are photographing. Indeed it would be forbidden to take pictures veiled women, but are so beautiful that it is impossible to resist. Reluctantly abandoned the market, along the way, between a bend and the other, we learn that the Italians have been kidnapped.
The last stop of the day is Jiblah, where the Mosque of Queen Arwa.
And 'the dark and return to Sana'a. The landscape is lunar and suggestive. The new moon, which stands out due to the smooth and clear sky without light pollution, it reminds me of a ghigno, Venus and serves as the next neo.
I point out to the children that the moon is "wrong." It comes a discussion on accesissima hemispheres, on how and why it is wrong.

E 'on the last day, so to speak, and we have to pull the next day because the plane will leave for Rome the next day at 3 o'clock in the morning. Spend the whole morning exploring the rock palace in Wadi dahar, what was once the summer residence dell'Imam. This building is simply extraordinary and majestic. Imagine a mountain with a palace on the top which was built following the appearance of the rock, exploiting the natural cavities, including wells and cisterns. Climbing to reach the summit is arduous, but it is really worth.
After having finally seen something "rich", we return to extreme poverty and go to visit a number of typical villages.
The first and Thule, and is built on a tank of water where the women are intent on doing the laundry and you find a kind of "Venice of the poor."
Just enter within the walls come assailed by hordes of kids who have learned the Italian tourists earlier (and then say that Yemen is the destination of many) that, with the excuse to make you see the village, trying to drag us into their stores looking for to sell the parcels. Leaving the city we head towards Shibam. and this is Kawkaban, a village which boasts a spectacular view, because on top of a mountain and from where you can leave for a hiking trip in the gorge with its arches, where it is better not to look on the ground that the schifo there is (I fear is used as a dump by the locals), but mostly known for The Flying Dutchman, which is not the famous Dee Jay Nick the Nightfly, but an unlucky tourist who wanted to stick out too much for watching the landscape, despite being warned of the danger, and who became a beautiful flight of a few hundred meters crashing into rocks below ....
After trekking in the landfill, we return to Sana'a, aware of the fact that it is really finished, but fully satisfied with the extraordinary places visited. Midnight to pull me and Anna decide to enjoy the market in Sana'a on our facts, knowing that if we were to lose in the violet of the souk, we could still find Salida, or another child who would meet there to help us out. I am really happy not to have made the sheep and you follow safe driving, because at this time I would not have seen the true Sana'a. Me and Anna in fact, turning at random, making help from children, we explored every remote corner and absolutely no tour of this enormous and beautiful city of buildings with windows and alabaster glass windows and rich colorful decor. We bought honey, biscuits and, at the conclusion of this fantastic experience, we also run on a beautiful milk shake mixed fruit (always in spite of the rules of hygiene and prudent traveler expert) in a chioschetto met on the street, between the looks surprised and kind of people.
After the last dinner (excellent) based on fresh grouper in a restaurant for Yemeni locals, we head towards the terrifying intristiti airport in Sana'a.
It 'an experience of life, believe me ... .. First, no one will check tickets and passports, and fortunately no one at check-in check my suitcase, which has since grown to weigh 27.9 Kg In return you must be careful, because the type at check-in attacks the stamps of destination of a suitcase if it does not know English and do not understand where we are directed. Fortunate that I notice, and unless my suitcase the last (the posting was in Venice), I striscetta with the stickers on my own initiative and attack the ticket Fiumicino / Linate alone. After check-in is the control with metal detector. If you are a woman and sounds, you end up behind a curtain where 2 pseudo-veiled Muslim policewomen will throb.

We finally boarded (in advance of 1 hour) on the mythical Airbus 320-200 that we bring home. I have the place near the window this time, use that as the head rests as it is night, and do not see anything out. Three seconds long (although I seemed hours) and are in the world of dreams, when the idyll is interrupted by a voice shouting into the microphone that "good morning" (the only phrase in English spoken) and turn on all lights of the plane. Damn, I slept only 3 hours and 2 missing on arrival, could not grant us half an hour more? And then it is still dark, UFFA ....
After breakfast omelette made of beans and I, Anna rice and meat, chicken and rice and their neighbors, landed in Rome. (know that another feature of Yemen is the central board practically depending on where you're sitting you reach a different stuff, but you have no right to choose. Even the drinks are different in the sense that if you're left to give drinks in cans, right in the bottle).
This was a truly incredible journey. What is certain is that never forget the extraordinary, kind, funny people I met, confirming that in the end, if you like, you can live under one roof while having ideas and habits, completely different from each other.
I will never forget this people and especially the laughter of his children.
Now I finally understand why Yemen was called Arabia Felix.