Hola Patagonia

Patagonia Tierra del Fuego Text of Anna M. Photo of Mark G.

This is one of those trips we plan for some time and then for many reasons has always remained only an idea until this year. There the curious idea of seeing these large open spaces, this land is dominated by the winds and above all the grandeur of the Andes. I read a lot about it, including the famous "In Patagonia" by Chatwin and could not imagine with that much this part of the world.
The organization of the trip was not difficult, the Argentines are very friendly and helpful on the spot and there were no problems of any kind.

English, outside of professionals, it is not known, but Spanish is not difficult to learn. Bearing the precious frasario dell'Edt you have provided us with some rudiments of this language we have been able to communicating cavarcela well in their language. Personally, when I go to a place I prefer to be adapted rather than having so determined to speak Italian and that they expect others to understand. After all guests are we!. To El Calafate I was able to watch a scene that bothered me a lot. Dinner, one evening in a restaurant, a couple enters the fifty. It accommodate a table and in tone of voice, not too content with the lady starts saying "we are Italians, we are Italians," and repeats it several times. The waiter looked at it and his expression clearly said, "and with this?". L 'observation I seemed decidedly out of place and the kitsch, which is claimed and what is the waiter stendesse a red pad on the course of its passage? Wanted favorable treatment? What tirassero an interpreter out of the hat? Well .. I have seemed in bad taste his attitude, especially considered that it was strictly expressed in demanding that the Italian waiter, who had little or propensity for languages or did it on purpose, to understand the letter's instructions. I fully share the "attitude the waiter, I would have done the same.
However again, Spanish is not as difficult as you might think and our efforts to communicate in their language are always welcome.

We also had the "pleasure" to experience driving in Argentina. Well .. we were able to verify that the code they use the Argentinians only plan to keep the legs of the table because it seems that nobody has taken the trouble to go beyond the reading of the index.
Cars that surpass machines still in the center road to turn left, use the arrow keys only when you remember, people who put out the Braccini to signal a turning point, ignore speed limits, not to mention the crossroads where the logic is not at home, can not be said that those who walk past and not even the biggest, the most cunning moves and faster for others not only have to wait and hope to succeed in putting. Not to mention the pedestrians, it is not healthy to cross without first carefully examined the real possibility of reaching the other side of the road. Grandma to that in Italy you always insist on walking on the side of the road free of the platform, when the other side the town has built one with all the chrism that we almost passed a car, I recommend strongly to prove the same experience in Argentina.
In town, the streets are almost all one way. As the map on this board that encourages extensive use of one-way streets. To find out if a road is one way, because they are not reported as our one-way streets, in addition to the already tried and tested technique of seeing in which direction the cars are parked is sufficient to look at, the sides of the street with the sign ' the name of the street. Below are listed two arrows (in both directions) if the road is a two-way, otherwise you see the arrow in the direction of travel of the road. The numbers are indicating the number of homes. And we are not daunted by their "high" number, the first part of the numbering indicates the isolate.
Then ask for directions is a real fun. Not that you understand well where ever you want to send fact is that if you ask the location of a hotel you will feel answer "3 blocks from the center" if it were exact includes the direction in which we must go!

The prices listed in this book, unless otherwise indicated, all are expressed in pesos ($). Want to economic crisis of 2000 or for the favorable exchange rate (€ 1 is approximately 3.5 Pesos) Patagonia is a destination rather economic. The effects of the crisis can still be seen. I have never seen so many machines so old and rickety, the pieces associated with wire, real catorce. Certain roads which are certainly not grant a long life of their cars and even their wonderful guide. And so the suburbs of the cities, suburbs and shacks made of degradation.

 

Leave Turin with a lovely white snow as you prepare for the upcoming Olympic event. As if they were not enough a week of strikes of Alitalia and staff at the airport of Caselle, when air traffic finally started to work regularly Snow's decision to make its appearance by blocking the north of Italy!
Saturday morning, making me part of the class of people who always expect the last minute for everything, preparing the bags with a watchful eye outside. And the snow continued to fall copiously, even exchanged text messages with my colleague from Turin, which I updated in real time situation of snow in the city 'does not promise anything good. The airport was still in operation and this was what 'that counted.
Arrived at the airport, well ahead immediately perform the check-in. Although with some delay negligible, with some exceptions, the airport was working normally. Of course to us and 'touched an exception and the first delay is insignificant and gradually become worrisome, especially in light of the fact that the time available to Rome was not much. More 'Time passed and more' this was reduced. The staff at the boarding gate replied vague and sometimes bother the demands of passengers. Ometto comments that could not answer the question whether the plane, which was to arrive from Rome, was or was not in flight. 'Should' was his answer ... A plane does not strike me as a child by both oggettino flounder observed in! However in the end the plane arrives and leaves little time in Torino at the same time that had to land in Rome ... since there is no teleportation arrive in Rome that no less than 10 minutes off the flight to Buenos Aires. Although in theory we would have waited try to move the more 'quickly as possible. Commend my boarding pass and the problems begin. Some phenomenon of employee canceled my reservation and gave my seat to another passenger. Needless to say that the apology of responsibility boarding there were a whisker, especially his attempt to postpone the departure. Topic absolutely no question, given that the error was because I do not see them 'I would have to lose. She insists, and the plane 'to complete, but I do not give. We talk a lot to have the 22 in the evening, we are tired, we did not even catch dinner, and this has enabled us to go on all the rage for which we are not inclined to give up a day of our journey to a failure of a phenomenon employee. In the end, the pilot descends, and we propose, on his own responsibility ', for me to travel in seats reserved for the staff, commonly called the' seat '. In return I would have refunded the ticket. Cosi 'climb on board at the end and finally we leave.

Buenos Aires

After a journey that e 'was better than how it was taken, apart from the landing and I' touched to hear a lecture on football skills of Totti by a stuart very 'Roman' arrive in Buenos Aires after 14 hours of flight which are about eight in the morning and the thermometer gia 'approaching thirty degrees.
What's more the inconvenience of the previous evening, our beloved airline has thought well to add an icing to this already 'ill success cake. He left our luggage in Rome. ... And say that 'quite normal' lose 'their luggage, but in short, everything had to happen with the same flight?! However, already seen that 'I had to go to ground Alitalia in order to take my payment, Add to this too.
The airport of Ezeiza, where all departing and arriving international flights is about 45 km from the city center '. Opportunities' in order to achieve it are many, taxi, auto remises, buses. We choose the bus company Manuel Tienda Leon ($ 25 per person). Cosi 'bear only our hand luggage, two backpacks to be used for our tours in the mountains, we are in desolate town'.
Want why 'we are not used to this heat, in Turin was snowing and the temperatures were below freezing, or to fatigue of the journey but to walk the sunny streets of the city' and a huge effort. Of people around, however n'e ce 'little, sara' perche 'e' Sunday will be 'why' it is too hot but the City 'appears empty, a while' as Torino in August.
Quickly reach our hostel and we have a fresh shower. Let's do some 'stock of the situation and the shopping list of basic needs'. Fortunately we are dressed in layers and that in a moment of 'health' mental 'I decided to put backpacks in two pairs of lightweight trousers. It would have been impossible to bring a winter. But Mark you his shoes on their feet and we must find a pair of sandals or something like that, a little 'more' suitable for the summer heat of Buenos Aires.
The heart of Buenos Aires' the area known as microcentro. Walk down the pedestrian street Florida and come away to the famous Plaza de Mayo, known perche 'e' was the scene of many protesto and e 'again today. On this square there is the equally famous Rosada, from whose windows overlooked Peron and his wife Evita.
By the way Florida. un po 'life comes alive, the shops are open and come to see the goods and' even pleasant, as are almost all equipped with air conditioning. Restaurants and distribute leaflets that advertise dinners or events.
So stroll 'to the city' not as tourists but as mere walkers on Sunday, arrived in the Plaza of the Republic dominated another obelisco and faces Av 9 de Julio la via piu 'large in the world, it has 16 lanes and to make sure that the guide has not said a Fregnaccia try to count the lanes. The cantilevered over the thermal fatigue of the journey begins to be felt, often we stop to rest on a bench in the shade of a tree, not a blowing air Filini manco to pay it.
The traffic and 'little, and the City' seems to sleep. Every now and in the corners of the streets you see sellers of orange juices, with their banquets confident customers expect.
With the advance of the evening and lower temperatures, people began to fill the streets, crowding the way to Buenos Aires and buys all its liveliness' described by the guide.
For dinner we choose to go to one of the locations of which have received the leaflet (El Gaucho - $ 28.10) and we eat our first Argentine steak. Spectacular.
Yet we walk through the town 'and then return in hostel (V & S Hostel). It 'been a very long day. The hostel has a small balcony and a group of guests tunes songs with a guitar. For a time 'thing and' pleasant but also becomes a Lagna and because I wanted to sleep I would have gladly given on the guitar heads. The blade of the fan turned all night but the heat of Buenos Aires there was regret for not having provided more 'days in this city'. Certainly our e 'was a' hit and escape 'but this season can not' be any different. If we go back in winter will visit this city better '.

Accommodation: V & S Hostel-Viamonte 887 - Buenos Aires - Cost $ 85 (double room with shared bathroom - B & B)

El Calafate

The alarm clock rings early, our flight 'at 9 or so, then we do not have much time to lose. Quick breakfast and we descend into the street to wait for the car, a remises, we take 'straight at Ezeiza (cost $ 45). We have more time to go quietly to the driver but it runs' a marvel. There are signs with speed limits' but we have the impression that he considers the simple numbers that adorn the streets.
At sadly discover that our luggage is still in Rome, so 'we agree with the staff so dell'Alitalia' them dispatched directly to Patagonia.
Our flight to El Calafate puntuale part, this is one of the few flights departing from Ezeiza, flights usually called 'domestic' are all that all'Aeroparque and 'other airport in Buenos Aires. Almost leave our belongings on a chair, Marco rising not realize that the pouch, with the portfolio and 'Left them, but a kind gentleman notices of forgetfulness and oceanic us to deliver. There was not only more 'this!
The flight and 'calm and arrive in El Calafate towards lunchtime. The airport in El Calafate and 'own small, but equipped with everything you need, and' a relatively recent in the middle of nothing for about fifteen kilometers from the city '. El Calafate is certainly not a very busy air traffic, therefore, to 17 the airport closes. This means that tomorrow, if your luggage arrives, we should be here by closing time to make the withdrawal.
The landscape we have around in many ways reminds Namibia. I was expecting a desolate land but not so dry. If you do not look in the direction of the Andes and the feeling 'precisely to an arid landscape of Africa, the tone', the colors are the same shades of yellow to brown, earthy expanses dotted with dry bushes here and there, I do not know why 'but I expect any day to see emerge a giraffe or antelope.
The guy dell'Avis we must deliver the car we booked and 'late. I really doubt stands also for not having understood the place of hiring but in the end, everything comes trafelato. The rental companies in these airports have only the name, offices are in town 'and also sometimes merely be simple desks as part of another business (travel agencies). The employees are to take and pick up your car at the airport if it had been agreed in advance. Our employee and 'a very young boy, who in perfect English, explains that the car we booked ce la puo' delivered until after the 17 and temporarily assign another there. All this, added to the fact that we must organize ourselves to recover, perhaps, our luggage will upset some 'plans. We booked this and subsequent nights at El Chalten, which is 220 km of dirt road from El Calafate. In contrast, the facts km with this car there will be counted (ndr rentals in Argentina are almost all limited to mileage).
A little 'tired of all these mishaps go into town' to find a room for lunch and decide what to do. You can get our luggage and 'un casino hiking, my boots are in bags and not just those, so tomorrow, and' out of the question to go walking.
El Calafate and 'a nice little town, his heart and' very lively and full of business, basically everything is located along the main street running through the tree center. The sign at the entrance of the town 'he calls the capital of the glaciers. E 'infatti la citta' closest to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier (80 km) and the southern part of the Parque Nacional Los Graciares. El Calafate on the shore overlooking Lake Argentino dell'immenso, about 1600 sq km, making it the most 'big lake in the country.
While we walk the main street teeming with people and shops, I think one of those that one is surprised not to have done. Meant among other obvious, because 'complicate life to go back and forth on these dirt roads just reverse the reservation for the night and change the route slightly. So 'now we go to BB (Casa de Grillos) where we booked a few nights and luckily we have a room available for the night. The owners are very friendly, an elderly couple very friendly and sociable. La casa del Grillo and 'a beautiful house in a quiet area outside the town center a short walk from Nimez Laguna, where a natural and' possible to observe birds in their habitats. Our room and 'very nice and the bathroom and' very spacious. We could not make a better choice.
Solved the problem of the night we go to phase two of the plan: call all'hosteria of El Chalten to cancel the first night. Undertaking not so easy as the phone number to me and marked 'wrong (and you seemed to) and on the phone is not the number. Fortunately we are the internet cafe 'and that remedied Hosteria I wander around the Internet. The tizia speaks only Spanish so with my poor knowledge of the language I try to understand me, especially trying to make them understand that it cancel the entire reservation but only the first night. He continues to tell me 'no problem no problem', we hope to have understood.
Solved this practical problem we spend the rest of the afternoon to stroll through the town 'and to do some shopping, buy the maps also useful in the next Girmi for walks we will do.
We go to the home of Chalten Travel to book the excursion in Chile at the end, after so much thinking and inform us, we decided to use a one-day excursion to visit the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine in Chile The cost of 'and tour' of $ 186 per person. Includes bus trip and guided tour of the park. Of course, one thing to group, but you can not 'do.
For dinner we chose a restaurant (La Cocina - $ 31.50) along the main street to welcome us and give the cake, after all, our holiday and 'started and even though we had some difficulties so far we have managed not to ruin us the vacation from all these drawbacks. The wind that has blown incessantly all day, with the decline of the sun and 'increased. The air and 'cool and you're good with the shirt.

Accommodation: Casa de Grillos - Pasaje Las Bandurrias s / n - El Calafate - $ 105 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Glaciar Perito Moreno

Immediately begin the day with a spectacular breakfast. Martha, the owner of B & B prepares the cake and jam for breakfast offered herself. The apple pie this morning and 'simply sublime. Mark and 'soddisfattissimo lunch, he who loves breakfast sweet and unsalted says he finally found a country that' can do lunch '. Tasted for the first time the jam 'Calafate', a fruit that grows in this land. It looks like a blueberry, same color and same shape, growing on thorny brambles, but the flavor and 'different.
The program for the day includes a visit to the famous Perito Moreno glacier, then perhaps recover the luggage and we will shift to El Chalten for the evening.
The glacier is 80 km to the city '. If you do not have a car there are bus tours or organized. The trip initially along the lake Argentino, majestic and immense. Along the road you can see rabbits and small birds of prey and other birds, rarely some guanaco. The path and 'partly and partly asphalted road dirt, the dirt and' also the subject of road works for which the length of the stretch of road and 'pretty boring.
Finally we come to the glacier ... and 'presto e non c'e' ancora tanta gente. The cost of entering the park 'for $ 30 per person. The Perito Moreno glacier more 'simply Glaciar Moreno and' perhaps the only, so 'they say, the glacier in the world in continuous progress. In the area there are other glaciers, such as glacier Upsula, although that is more 'full of Glaciar Moreno appears to be less spectacular and Glaciar Onelli, sites in the north arm of Lago Argentino. These glaciers are reachable by boat with trips lasting a day.

The glacier, its grandeur are spectacular. From time to time you hear the thud of something falling into water. Her majesty 'and' impressive. There are different levels of walkways and balconies to see the ice and 'place exactly in front of the viewer. Its height exceeds 50 meters and at the base and 'rather crevasses. The ice that breaks away from the glacier goes into the water dell'immenso Lake Argentino.
At the foot of the glacier, on a small platform of rock, a mother fox with her two puppies are godeno the sun. But few are aware of his presence, the color camouflage with the stone and the fact you are facing a performance so natural 'great majesty' means that its presence is almost unknown to most of those present.
To see this glacier we are all his. Just look at the varied human presence there '. There 'even a group of Italians. Sessions, with his back turned to the glacier, complain of the choice of some of their comrades to remain more 'than necessary in this place, and plan to leave to find a bar, are bored. Sometimes people go around the world to be able to say that they went, made a nice photograph for the family and then everything else is unimportant. I am sorry for them, but if their first thought and 'to go to the bar rather than stay there to enjoy this show so worth stay at home to browse a catalog! This is not to say that the Italians are worse than others, and that others do not understand what they say then I can not comment. But these attitudes annoy me a lot, if you do not like and you are not interested in had just starten at home so 'not so crowded this place.
With increasing temperature, towards lunchtime, ice falls, rightly increased. Lifting his gaze to heaven Marco find two Condor flying. Happy as a child when it receives a new game, start the photo with the two birds, fortunately we have brought digital cameras, or else we touched to make a loan to pay the photographer for the development!
In the afternoon we spend to collect your luggage at the airport and we head to El Chalten. Walk down a stretch of the famous Route 40, the road through the Patagonia from south to north along the Andes. Along the way they meet, in addition to the guanacos also rhea '. Ostriches are a little 'more' smaller but equally stupid. There are lots of fences that mark the boundaries between the various properties' and estancia, these animals occasionally find a point of exit and then do not more 'to find a way to turn back. Stupidly stuck his head between the wires of the fence but can not move because the other side 'do not come to think that simply by raising the leg to be able to get the rest of the body, poor! So 'we see several anxious to run down the fences in search of some way. Territory and 'its arid and remember that this area in Namibia and for all, for its colors, its shrubs dried, retains its charm. The road first runs along the Lake Argentino and Lake Viedma. Vast expanses of water where the Andes are reflected in their waters.
Here and there you see the signs for some Estancia, they certainly are not awakened in the middle of the night by noise from neighbors who rincasano.
The road 'all dirt, are performing the work of asphalting that mooooolto proceed slowly, but in the meantime the road and' dirt and not 'even the best.
Fortunately, the last piece of road, RP23, and 'the island. At a crossroads load hitchhiker, is 18 and considering that not many cars passing, that the wind and 'very strong and chissa' from the poor, was awaiting them in a way. E 'un ragazzo di Milano, as' small world, and' un po 'che e' in Argentina as' spend the rest of the trip talking with him for what he has seen or done. Before us the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy dominate with all their grandeur. Perhaps these names to more 'say little but mountains are two ladies who have always fascinated mountaineers more' capable.
El Chalten, and 'a small country, born in 1985 as a base for mountaineering expeditions to the two mountains. It 'a recent el'urbanistica shows. Its streets are unpaved, and traffic and 'non-existent, it seems a country of far-west, where are the horses and the gunman? There a lot of children who throng the streets. Children's bicycle racing, with the ball, and lots of laughter crowds, the streets of El Chalten teeming with children.
The Hosteria Lago Viedma and 'a little house not far from the white center, and nothing but' far from the center. There are a few rooms and are all on the upper floor, the interior is all wood and makes it a somewhat 'rustic. Our room and 'nice, small but equipped with all comforts.
We go for dinner in a restaurant (Pizza Bar comidas Patagonicus - $ 40) in the city '. No menu 'meat because' we are not fond of the genre, we take two beautiful plates of noodles with tomato sauce and of course nothing wrong this evening giving us sweet. Two steps for the country that seem to a country other times if it were not for the internet cafe '. The guides make it a po 'a description that seems that of a frontier outpost, but for tourists, in El Chalten c'e' almost all, the supermarket, shops, internet cafe ', lacking only the bank, but someone said that will arrive soon 'also.

Overnight: Hosteria Lago Viedma - Ricardo Arbilla 71 - El Chalten - Te. (02,962) 49,389 - ww.elchalten.com / lagoviedma - $ 120 (double room with shared bathroom - B & B)

Laguna Los Tres (El Chalten)

Sveglia soon 's now walking! Breakfast dell'Hosteria not 'nothing wrong even if the slice of cake has nothing to do with those prepared by Marta!
We plan to go to Laguna Los Tres. What we have chosen, in fact, 'the best route to admire from close range on the eastern side of the mythical Mount Fitz Roy. Itinerary virtually trouble-free 'on a path beaten but very long (22 km round trip with an elevation gain of about 850 m).
Let the machine alliimbocco the trail near the campsite Madsen, and we are, and perhaps' a bit early but around there 'almost anyone. It 's not much that we are in Argentina but we have already' learned that are not particularly Early Bird. L '; mouth of the trail and' well reported by a cartel of wood. The path soon rises into the woods carrying a north-west. After a little under the collar Cerro Rosado, we traverse to enter into broad valley almost flat. Crossing the basin will reach the base camps Poincenot hidden among Southern beeches. Is exceeded then the Rio Blanco on a bridge built with a round piece of wood and in a few minutes and 'at Base Camp Rio Blanco, starting point for alpine ascents in the group of Fitz Roy. This field can only stay that will make the climbers ascended Mount Fitz Roy in all other c'e 'il campo Poincenot.
The route becomes more 'demanding and the trail climbs more' rugged and steep until shelf which lies Lake Los Tres, at the foot of the glacier itself. Simply fantastic!
We arrived in a beautiful place position that allows us to see everything. The place and 'spectacular. The mists come and go from the tip and sometimes you can see the top 'of the mountain. The Fitz Roy (3405 m) and 'also known as the mountain that smokes for his own particularity' of the tip have often concealed in the fog. The name Fitz Roy and of course 'a relatively new name, from indigenous peoples and the mountains' known as Chalten.
Looking with the binoculars found two climbers on the wall, do not envy them at all, given the fog that occasionally envelop the mountain I do not think that they are suffering too hot, indeed.
The first shipment to arrive 'on the top of Fitz Roy was a French expedition in 1951, so' because I read 'was not there! One of the neighboring peaks at Fitz Roy is named after a French member of this expedition, some Poincenot that his sfiga and 'drowned in the waters of the Rio Fitz Roy. I say the misfortune, a scale such a mountain where the odds' to leave the feathers are a fantasy, then that? Drowns in a river. This' own iella!
As time passes, people begin to arrive. Mmmhhh are not much these Early Bird Argentini.
In the afternoon we continue the way back.

After benin cleaned to leave for dinner. Since we have not walked enough, leave on foot and we do the trip in the country.
After much careful outside many restaurants back in the same space on the night before. We settled in another part of the space, the walls are hung old photographs of climbers that have passed through the town '. There are even photos of the Masters with his comrades of that unfortunate expedition to Cerro Torre dated 1959 in which Egger lost his life. Should have been the first climbers to reach the top but unfortunately there is no evidence to this argument used as the camera and 'fall with Egger and' lost, so 'the only witness not to Teachers' was considered valid . Eh .. miiii .. suspicion that these climbers! The fact is that the argument for years was being discussed and we think! Masters in 1970, to put an end to talk a good time call 'the Cerro Torre is currently open and' known as the way of the compressor. As the climb and 'a stroll thought good to open up a way of using nails expansion you put (not' just the word but it makes the idea) in the walls of the mountain with the aid of a drill powered by a compressor, from hence the name "via the compressor. Oggettino little space. But instead of removing all doubt about its real capabilities' that they have climbed the peak and it 'came out a putiferio; there' who claims that it arrived almost at the top still has not passed the kind of mushroom ice over the top . If you look with binoculars this fungus so you can see .. awesome. So much effort for nothing, I say, because 'time is still the first ascent to the summit some of the Cerro Torre and' that made in 1974 by the undersigned, who was two years, and the Italian expedition of Ferrari! Do not believe us? Your problems!

Overnight: Hosteria Lago Viedma - Ricardo Arbilla 71 - El Chalten - www.elchalten.com / lagoviedma - $ 120 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Lago Torre (El Chalten)

Even today, starting soon. Our destination today and 'Lake Tower near the base camp De Agostini. The path ahead now and 'little more' out of that yesterday but tonight we go to El Calafate for after the walk, we still expect good 2 hours to drive that road purgosa.
We start early to avoid having to run later in the afternoon. At the same time we will start a bunch of guys. According to Mark are the ones who make a trek on a glacier, which had seen the brochures, I think not. Ignoring the fact that they are just a few clothes and backpacks that come with if they are not grants of Mary Poppins I doubt that they can leave big jackets and sweaters, remain their shoes. We believe that people with tennis shoes to wear a pair of crampons? Have never seen the tennis shoes of canvas crampons!
However ... we see.
Even today there is' a good dose of wind, but it 'normal for this land, so we can get used.
The trail begins from the meadows on the western side of the village of El Chalten also a wooden sign indicator that shows the route. The path to moderate ascent through a series of grassy hillocks and enters the valley along the Rio Fitz Roy, which flows on the left rather cashed. Reached a collar, then you reach the first lookout on Cerro Torre. From time to time by a few bushes sprouting of hares. Too funny!
The trail down to get closer to the river that flows in a wide alluvial plain. After about 3-4 hours from El Chalten you reach the Base Camp De Agostini, which is located in a forest near the moraine of the Glacier Grande. Beyond the moraine, before the ice, lies Lake Tower. Another spectacular place. The Cerro Torre (3102 m) stands at the bottom of the glacier. I wonder how you can climb a mountain of the sort. Its vertical walls seem steep and inaccessible.
Arrived at the destination we seek a sheltered corner on the shores of the lake and we enjoy the view of Cerro Torre and the other mountains. Meanwhile it also our group and alas' Mark was right. In single file preceded by a detachment of two carry our guides, 'aspiring mountaineers', fitted with harness, they will use to cross the river on a bridge in Tyrol. Since we all parade in front of Mark's set for boots, browse every single pair of shoes and amused comments on what 'he sees. Closes in group A guide probably guess the origin of the fun of Mark, it looks forward to 'resigned' and indicating that the group has before it makes laugh. Gia '.. il mondo e 'bello perche' e 'but varied chissa' as is' demoralizing 'to a guide to fun elements of the genre. It 'true that the offering trekking and' something within reach of anyone but their present with the tennis shoes and a jacket or a fleece, in short, a glacier and 'always a glacier, even if you do it just to see a couple of minutes and you do make two steps above just to be able to say that he walked on the glacier.
In the afternoon take the long way back, I do not know why but the returns are always more 'generally long gone.
Returned to the country we take our car and we immediately put in motion to reach El Calafate that evening. Aleando and Martha, the house of Grillos, we accept it with much warmth as if we were part of the family.

Accommodation: Casa de Grillos - Pasaje Las Bandurrias s / n - El Calafate - $ 105 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Lago Roca (El Calafate)

This morning we have a little 'things to do in town' so 'we wake up in peace' and we go down quietly in the center to get some 'commission. Tomorrow we go in 'outing' in Chile and we have to change money in Argentine Chilean money to pay the entrance to the park. Then we go to the office of the change that we have indicated, and after a long queue we find that they have no money in this currency, so 'let's go to the bank, and again after a long queue before we arrive at the counter and we can buy the equivalent in Chilean currency to pay the entrance to the park. Cosi 'between a tail and the other and if they' left much of the morning. The code in Argentina are a spectacle. Interminable queues, rows and rows of people in queue at the cashier in supermarkets before the cash. All queued quietly without nervousness. Mooolto an approach different from ours, where a queue and 'synonymous with stress, and if you Attardi a bit behind those are felt. Things most 'comic at the supermarket. Bring spending on the chassis of the box, which does not have the carpet sliding as ours, with all the cashier calmly takes the piece by piece and passes over the reader. If the customer has forgotten something, a little evil, and the cashier is quietly waiting for the customer who stroll the meantime, all calm, to the supermarket to take this' missing. The procession ended in front of the player pieces, with all the calm enveloped cashier starts spending, fortunately helped by the customer. Arranged the change to the spending account. The Treasurer announced the amount and the client begins to look for the money. All this is done very quietly without the nervousness of anyone. Everyone is waiting your turn safely and no one complains, then a less stressed out of our own, even just for nothing. The ideal would be an interim system: our and 'too stressed out and they too relaxed.
Given the approximate time of lunch we look at the nature reserve nearby Laguna Nimes, which is located on the shores of Lake Argentino. Like all stocks, and perhaps' more 'interesting during the migratory season for birds but in any case could be interesting to make us a visit. Admission costs $ 2. Is a small map that the wind takes us away almost immediately, but the subject is not 'very large and the path and' unique. There are many birds of prey, paperotti of various kinds, ibis. We have not yet managed to find a book on birds of this area as' for our business' of bird-watching today, we must rely solely ornithological knowledge of Mark.
In the afternoon, instead we move into the area of Lake Roca. Walk down this valley and the road along the lake. The road and 'dirt track and there' almost anyone. It 'a little joke from tourism and few estancia not encountered nothing. Take a road that leads along the lake, there are two fishermen and a family playing football on the lawn.
The view of the lake and the mountains and 'very beautiful, and' a quiet place where having a po 'di relax and do lunch with the family. Mark is not going too well, the changes in temperature have hired a pretty cold, an afternoon relaxing on the banks of the lake and 'what we want. In the distance a gaucho on horseback, collecting some cows scattered here and there and back. It seems so 'out the rest of the world with its confusion, its people, you hear only the hiss of the wind and the sound of the wind-driven lake.

Return for dinner along an alternative route, the entire track, which leads us straight to the center. The intention was not this already but as' we had the opportunity to understand the road maps are not accurate, and our 'scored a road that we do not find. And maybe 'once the track and we have not recognized as a road or maybe not there' and that was it.
Alternatively, if we had not had to miss the entire morning at the bank to do the one-day excursion to the glacier Upsula, sara 'for another time.
We go for dinner in a pizzeria (La Lechuza - $ 34) which assists in the wonderful scene at the beginning of my story. Dinner is not 'evil. Pizza and 'served on a wooden cutting board, very characteristic. To choose the local dinner, there are very many in the center, we have consulted very much to our faithful guide and then choose a place not mentioned on the rails .. eh eh

Accommodation: Casa de Grillos - Pasaje Las Bandurrias s / n - El Calafate - $ 105 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

P.N. Torre del Paine (Chile)

It 'still night when we wake up. Come to take us to 5 for the trip to Chile to Torres del Paine park. Within this park, 'this the Paine massif, a set of mountains, granite peaks that rise from the steppe Patagonica up and dominate the landscape. What can we say? are spectacular.
We have a little 'to say on this methodology to organize the trips, however ... Martha, when we descend to breakfast, e 'gia' standing. Truly an exceptional hostess. 5 puntuale to a car is taken. Accompany us at another hotel, then a party bus that doing the rounds of the city 'load all the participants to more intensive. So 'let El Calafate which is now almost 6. There were no first appointment to give the people all somewhere so 'is avoided waste time with this taxi service to your home? But my canons of efficiency and organization, I realize just suited to the rhythms and life-style South American countries.
Travel and 'of considerable length, a stop in a bar for breakfast and some bisognino, then straight to the frontier. The road initially and 'road and the small bus runs fast, despite the rain, then a little dirt but the bus continues to run fast. Argentina arrive at the border, a little house in the middle of nothing, a cold, rain and of course there is' the wind. Customs officers control the slow stamp passports and various paperwork. The look and feel 'exactly what the border that you see in old western movies, chissa' if the writers were inspired by places of its kind! Another po 'di road and here we are on the border with Chile and here a great chaos. The customs official and 'alone, or better to play the practice of revenue and exit from the country's' one person, because' actually are two, one working and one watching. Of people who want to cross the border in both senti ce n'e 'just so, we should complete the forms for entry and get in line. After passport control you pass the medical examinations. You can not 'bring the country any type of fresh food, such as fruits, vegetables, meat. What say .. we passed the beauty of three hours to be able to move all the customs. By way of news to go with half its need to do an additional row for the document control of the machine.
Finally we are again all on the bus, a different bus because 'the one that we have traveled so far and' Left ALDILA 'of the border, another bus with a guide, was waiting for us on this side.
The guide starts to explain the type of tour we are going to do, the stages, the rules and inform those present that the entrance of the park must be paid in cash and assets in Chile. And here's just some little hand that is raised, saying that he had no money in Chilean currency. Cosi 'to stop further exchange with adjacent arrabbiatura of some of these for this further delay.
And finally we part. The first stop and 'near the entrance of the park. While the guide goes to complete all formalities' input we wander around the yard and do some first photos of this mass of Torre del Paine. The day is not 'pretty, it does not rain but the clouds surround the mountain. The environment we have around and 'different to the Argentine. and 'more' green, more 'lush. The Andes in fact, act as barrier for the disruption and then stopping the same aldiqua 'of the mountains.
The guide will give you plenty of information on the place, people, life in these areas. We stop more 'points to see the mountains, the landscape. In a parking lot once you leave Patagonica photograph, along the way myriad of guanacos. Many more 'than that seen in Argentina, but this too had the bed. The park was born in 1959 had among its main objectives the safeguarding of this and other species of animals by hunters and poachers.
We go to visit the waterfall of Salto Grande very beautiful. Then the lake Pehoe. It 's not possible to go to the lake because Gray,' says the guide, there are problems on the road or something like that related to the transit of the minibus. Bella cheat because 'the agency had told us that it was right there and it was also them that we wanted to go, Sigh!
Finally we continue the way back. Fortunately, the borders are less crowded to same way that 'does not lose too much time with the various formalities' and soon we were again on the direct bus to El Calafate. Return in the city 'which are the 22 but we arrive at our B & B is now almost 23, because' through this service at home wander around the city 'who leaves in front of a hotel, who to another, until it touches us. Obviously, the last bus!
At the house of Martha and Grillo 'still standing. Us with the usual kindness and availability 'and asks us for our day. Cosi 'in front of a nice cup of mate telling the slow bureaucracy of Chilean and our trip to Chile, which has allowed us to see, although in a very stealth, this beautiful country that will certainly come back to visit with more' attention and more 'time. Maybe even do the famous trekking known as' W ', for its particular shape. Chissa '...

Accommodation: Casa de Grillos - Pasaje Las Bandurrias s / n - El Calafate - $ 105 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Ushuaia

We flew to Ushuaia party at noon, so 'no alarm early breakfast and calm throughout. Attardi We also chat with Aleandro before leaving the house of Grillo. Tells us a little 'of the country situation, economic and political situation in general, South America and the people. I like to talk to the locals even if only to understand how they live, what, who they are.
Leaving the house of Grillo we stop in town 'to buy some and then we move to the airport. We do check-in and pay the airport taxes ($ 18) and look forward dell'addetto dell'Avis today too late. We have not exceeded the number of kilometers covered by the contract then we should not pay any extra. Is about to leave when Mark called me, while I was gone to see the billboards at the airport to ask if we had already paid 'rent as we had booked. Absolutely not, so 'draws him in charge and do this. Frigates and we could go but there seemed to correct against this guy, so maybe then subtracted from his salary. Balance the car and we salute for the second time, of course, he does not do that thank you, probably would have seriously reduced the amount from the salary!
The flight and 'calm and arrive at Ushuaia in the afternoon. The time is not 'a crab', overcast and cold but I think that here the time is never too good.
Ushuaia: 'The City' de la fin del mundo ', it seemed that she was not his name, and' post on the banks of the channel of beagles. Actually e 'la citta' piu 'North of the world but not' the case to repeat it in every where. Ushuaia and 'in the past has been the Argentine penal prisons that important naval base. It 'still a place with a charm.
We do not have any hired car, we can move easily by public transport there is' a service and an organization to be envied in many places.
The airport is situated on a peninsula and is' a bit more 'big and crowded as that of El Calafate. Il Nido Condores of where to stay, also provides a transport service from the airport to the facility as' a car is ready to expect.
Il Nido Condores of a particular place, with wooden floors that crunch, the heating turned on, the owners really wearing short sleeves and keep the heating turned on, it would first turn off the heat and get a shirt? It would not be the most 'economically?
We go out immediately in search of a place in which to snack, for lunch we ate a snack. We find a café not bad, and we give two hot chocolate croissant with many who call medialuna. Even in Argentina, as in Italy, chocolate has its followers and its admirers.
Wander around the city ', some other shops are open are closed, in the end of the day and' even Sunday. Let us go and retrieve information at the time of the different buses for different destinations, a little 'different information and addresses of agencies that organize excursions. Many of these are closed but the Rumbo Sur and 'open. We are particularly interested to see the beavers. The excursion costs $ 70 and includes round-trip with this questionable system of service at home, the visit and a short snack for dinner. Book and show us as a time of 19.00.
Dinner in a restaurant (Restaurant la Estancia) that makes the Parilla. For $ 25 a head you can eat anything you want. The chef cooking in front of the Parilla customer lambs are hung on the brazier in a very choreographed and meat roasted on the grill. At 8, the restaurant opens us tips and we are them. Each with its flat, ranging from cooks and choose the piece you want. We are not so great Mangione 'we simply try to type a piece, up to a piece of some kind of mostardella. Meat and 'cooked to perfection, tender and delicious. After dinner we walk a little 'for the way animated by many tourists but the cold and' rather pungent.

Accommodation: Nido de Condores - Gobernador Campos 783 - Ushuaia - nidodecondores@speedy.com.ar - $ 105 (double room with shared bathroom - B & B)

P.N. Tierra del Fuego (Ushuaia)

Even today is not 'a wonderful day. I do not understand if you think only the rain or if he really intends to do so. The fact is that is not quite so hot dressed for benin we are approaching the bus stop. I expected to see the pole indicating the name of the company, but at the direction of the road I do not see anything. On the other side of the road but 'we notice a number of small bus stop and a driver that allows us to sign with his hand. Cross and although it was not yet the time of departure of his company decides to leave him, so 'we immediately put in motion. The ticket, to return (to be made then by the same company) for the National Park Tierra del Fuego coast $ 20 and the trip lasts a mezz'oretta. This is the first coastal national park established in Argentina. Its territory and 'very broad and includes not only the coast, rich in birdlife. You may spot condors, albatross, cormorants, gulls, gray, various types of geese and ducks, as well as mammals such as foxes and rabbits. We have seen only rabbits (many), cormorants, gulls, and stay a few model ducks and geese.
Returning to our tour bus, there 'to say that this mechanism for public transport works very well. There are several companies that perform this service in each zone starting at a predetermined time, from the town of Ushuaia on the various localities' of the national park. Cosi 'even without a car you can' move quietly without great difficulty '.
A brief stop at the gate of the park to pay the daily admission ($ 20) and you arrive at your destination. Immediately take the direction of our path, we want to get on Cerro Guanaco which is said to enjoy an excellent view. Some doubt 'on quality' of the view that the time and 'just bad and the mountains are shrouded by fog. It is very cold, wind and 'very strong case and it rains. C'e 'little people around, but in compensation there are lots of rabbits, we deduce that either the foxes are not too many rabbits or breed more' rapidly than that of foxes can papparseli. From every bush you see a tick or two ears, run a batuffoletto hair. They are really adorable.
The trail initially passes through the forest with some sections of steep ascent. Along a length of 8 km (one way). As we increase the climb becomes more 'and sometimes steep terrain and the' slippery. The wind and 'very strong but at the shelter in the woods you can walk quite well. The creak a little 'accident of the logs moved by the wind and a haunting. Arrived at the edge of the forest the wind and 'very strong. Wear gloves and hat and continue for a while '. It's too cold and the wind blowing very strong, sometimes it rains and in the end, as the low fog we would have prevented the view from the top 'of the mountain, we decide to give up and take the path of return. There was more 'a lot, but I have just too cold to continue. Coming down we meet a single person. Lunch on the shores of Lake Roca, seated on a trunk toppled accompanied by hiss of the wind and the creak of the trees. Not meet other people. Argentini original estimate in the choice of names. This' second Lago Roca I see less than a week.
Buses depart for the return next to the cafeteria, which will 'definitely a name on the map but have not written. For camping every so often you see a rabbit running fast on the lawn, there are lots of fun and I to watch. There are also several falcons or something like that, seeking the crumbs left by tourists, one has the audacity to up to perch on the window of the cafeteria.
Returning to the city 'we make a scappatine in cioccolatteria to do a tour and snack shop. We are desperate for a guide on mammals and birds of Patagonia or South America, finally after so much running a library we recommend that the store does for us. Finally we return home until the evening of movement beavers. Even here there is the efficient method of delivery service and luck that we are back in advance, because 'the time that gave us the agency was incorrect. The bus tizia and 'beauty of the past 40 minutes than at first agreed, so' we had to prepare materials and slingshot out to not to wait any more 'is necessary.
After loading the last participant can safely move into the refuge to a half hour from Ushuaia towards Tolhuin, home of movement, which for obvious reasons, will be held 'at dusk. The fact beavers out at night so the chances' of seeing them are greater. The refuge and 'a little wooden house that reminds valdostano. Just look around to see that in this area, the beaver is the master. The environment and 'his own, dams, logs overturned and gnawing. Before driving to our tour in his environment who do not have a waterproof pair of shoes is fitted with a pair of rubber boots. I have my boots, we inform you about what kind of ride and the terrain, I want 'to say that we have to' brush the boots but I prefer my shoes to a pair of rubber boots. An Australian lady, who does not speak a word of Spanish, does not understand what is accessed, so ', with our poor English to explain the matter of shoes. Unfortunately the organizers of this walk not only speak English but Spanish .. sara 'un po' hard for you.
The tour takes us to see the surrounding area, colonized by a family of beavers. You see the signs of its passage, gnawing logs, dams, abandoned burrows. The boy who acts as a guide describes the life of the beaver, its habits, its habitat. The group and 'very different, there are also children, the Australian lady calls a' us and some 'to a Mexican boy who speaks English well tradurgli of what is said by the guide.
Finally we come to the area of colonization of the current family of beavers that counts in all five subjects. And here every so often some element makes its appearance. In all three we see several beavers. Swim, eat, move arms, are in full activity '. They are fantastic, and after three trips to North America where we have not seen even from a distance and almost do it at the opposite ridge of this continent. The beavers, it must be said, are not a species native to this area. Some phenomenon has brought them, bringing them from North America, and they have found a supportive environment and have adapted more 'than good, maybe too much.
The evening and 'now arrived and a long before it's too dark take on the way home, satisfied and happy to have finally seen this beautiful animal at the bottom of this and' the only reason we have decided to participate in this walk .
Returned to the table and shelter 'ready for dinner. Cosi ', we spend the rest of the evening chatting with her Australian and Mexican boy, li rest of the guests, makes a little' to life if chatting in Spanish. Finally at 22 the small bus arriving back in town '.

Accommodation: Nido de Condores

P.N. Tierra del Fuego (Ushuaia)

Today you valuable time and 'worse than yesterday as we were lucky! Our air party in the evening and so we have all day to get to know these places yet. Our original plans to go with the chair lift up to Martial Glacier and then take a short tour in the area, but the time and 'ugly and the glacier and' enveloped in fog.
Alternatively I propose a Marco going to take that much-vaunted footpath along the coast in the national park of Tierra del Fuego: senda costera. The first who dares even to come to precipitate the beauty of this trail you get a shoe on the nose. Certainly when compared to a walk in the center under the arcades and 'fantastic but compared to the path to the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy .. these are people landscapes! Usually take the bus, with the same driver in the past and go exactly at the start of the path. Initially passing through the woods and then go out and along the coast for a long, all are in 6.5 kilometers.
The environment ', particularly along the coast, but the path and' a torment. Mud, mud and more mud. It sucks to be smeared. The day, gray, and these places that have a melancholy and sad. We meet some people but not many who have ventured on this path. Past a campsite, there are plenty of tents and not hardly believe it, by this time I did not even pass into the brain to mount a tent in this beautiful land molliccio and sleep all night raggomitolata in my sleeping bag while rain drenched much good my tent and everything that comes to shooting.
I must say that when we reach the asphalt road we are really happy, all that walking in the mud at the end there was not a little nervous, the landscape and 'nice, but nothing more'. Nothing like 'exceptional describes as driving, beautiful views of the canal but from here to call them views' breathtaking'.
Waiting for the bus back along the road, the cafeteria is not 'far away but it has worked well'. When you see him get the bus stop and if there is' the place makes you go up, the you see your beautiful card and return to the game and 'done.
Back in Town 'buy us a nice slice of tart for lunch, some facicamo step in the center and along the bay and then go and retrieve our luggage and a car remises ($ 10) quickly reach the small airport of Ushuaia.
Upon check-in to tell us a delay of 2 hours on departure and provide us with a ticket to go and enjoy a snack waiting for the flight, not as in Turin we have waited more 'two-hour flight and not We have even offered a caramellina although dinner hours!
The flight and 'quite disturbed, strong winds tossed in Benin on the airplane and the landing stage and' pretty rocking, lucky that I go down to Trelew and not have to go up as others in Buenos Aires. Almost all aircraft crossing the country from north to south and vice versa, leaving or arriving in the capital include a stop to exchange passengers. Who will not descend.
Say that the airport of Trelew? Another example of airport microscopic, there is' a very strong wind but warm, very warm. Another beautiful bump in temperature! E 'midnight, and' all closed, the only anime in airport passengers to and from this flight and those who for some reason, should receive the newcomers. Since we are two hours late, I rest and wait your luggage while Mark went to go practice with the guy who dell'Avis chissa 'and how' that we expect them. Of course nothing in the airport office, the modalities' are the same, they came to take the car directly at the airport. The auto e 'un po' piu 'grossa but the former can not be' better placed to say. The type us a strange speech that we can, if you like, change it the next day. I do not understand the meaning and then we do not want to lose another morning to retrieve another machine, if this goes well it works the same. Explains the fast way to reach our hotel and we are approaching. Located in the center of Trelew, sara 'perche' e 'almost in the center but a non c'e' soul alive. We find quite easily the hotel, park and enter. Casca The guy from the clouds, he is not no reservation, the monster my mail exchange with his colleague and he tells me everything white that connects most likely was not anything on their registry. Bei pasticcioni! still has a free and even if you do not 'like the one we asked ourselves. Given the time and saw everything else we decide to make the room even though, after places like the house of this room and Grillo 'own squalid and bad.

Accommodation: Cheltum Hotel - Avda H. Yrigoyen 1385 - Trelew - tel (02965) 431066 - www.cheltumhotel.com.ar - $ 78 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Punta Tombo

I wake up the voices of the people in the corridor, about six. The room has a small window that we opened for the heat and see what comes out? A head of a black Gatton looking inside the room. Breakfast and 'far superior to the style of untidy. Looking better her living room, entry, the receptions, not bad but like all things in Argentina has had a few years of glory and then left to go. Gives me the impression that this is a 'style, like say one of my neighbor' no ambition ', they leave that things are marked by time and do nothing to maintain the original splendor.
We start right after breakfast at a time of Punta Tombo to visit the famous colony of Magellanic penguins, which has more 'than half a million penguins nesting in this area. Punta Tombo is located 110 km from Trelew, which has' self-christened the capital of the Penguins. If you had not understood all the city 'and' capital of something!
Our map indicates a road which connects the road, the RN 3 (national route) to RP 1 (ruta provincial) that dirt, which would reduce the path to do on dirt. Why would we say 'in spite of the map this beautiful road signs do not exist yet, and' still under construction. Cosi 'with so much anger and further proof that the maps are a little' too rough, we must go all the way back to the junction for Rawson to take the RP 1, this long road. Every now and some we armadillo crossing the road but they are too fast to be able to capture with his camera. Cosi 'come to that pinguineria e' gia 'mattina made. We pay the tickets ($ 20) and make two sandwiches for lunch and then route to the Penguins. The Magellanic penguins are high, adults means, about 45 cm and think about 4-5 kg. Nest in this area and build their nest on land for up to 800 meters from the coast. The area and 'nature reserve was established in 1979 to preserve the penguins, fauna and flora in this area. This peak Tombo and 'still more' continental large colony of Magellanic penguins.
Mamma mia ... gia 'before reaching the parking we have a hint of what will be' this visit. Penguins stroll quietly along the road heedless of the people and cars. First of all, I literally stravedo for these cute little animals and 'even if not' the first time that I have the opportunity to see them in their natural environment for me and this' always a great time.
It is everywhere. Everywhere you turn you see a tick. Trotterellano quietly between cars and buses in the parking lot, toward the beach, in the middle of a herd of guanacos that grazing peacefully. I have a lot fun to see them all lined up on the beach awaiting the order to make the dip, and some young 'to his first impact with the sea and the dilemma I do not dive and I dive' in the middle of his thoughts m then there is a wave huge et voila 'all at sea!
To ensure that people go anywhere, 'was a sort of track path or area where you can' stroll. The penguins are many. It 'a fun run with each other, stop to watch them, photograph them, observe them. They are funny with their walk ciondolante. I bow to their height and we look a little 'more' closely. We must be careful because 'they tend to peck but if no one bothered them they are not disturbed by all these people and if you watch closely to stop a moment to observe and then take a heedless groom feathers.
As the guide and 'better to be in this area when there are crowds of tourists arriving by bus. At some point something came as coach of the 8 Grand Touring model of Costa Cruises and although numbers were still higher than the penguins, the chaos and noise produced by all these people greatly exceeded that produced by all these penguins.
Since we do not hurry and no commitments of any kind, there are peaceful and blessed to observe penguins, do lunch, we relax and meanwhile the groups leave. It seems to be reborn, a few people scattered along the route.
A meta 'in the afternoon, even if grudgingly salute our new friends and take our way.
Quickly consulted the map and decide to make a stop in Gaiman. Gaiman is located 17 km west of Trelew along the RN25. This is a small village of Welsh origin. The name is not Giaiman 'of Welsh origin, but given by indigenous people who passed the winter in these areas before the arrival of the Welsh language and means something like' tip of the arrow or stone '. The Welsh came more 'late and settled in these lands. The City 'and boasts a long tradition of Welsh and the houses are proof that you' in town '.
We choose the hotel Unelem. The post and 'been recently renovated and it' very nice. Our room and 'very spacious. Before dinner we make two steps for the country. Hardly any people around. There 'an internet cafe' with even the phones, so 'I take this opportunity to call home and make the birthday wishes for the mother of Mark. In this area my phone but it does not take 'very best' economic use these phones or pay the roaming mobile. In every case so far has only to capture the signal at Ushuaia (a chronicle of having to serve an tri-band phone).
Dinner in the hotel restaurant where a waiter serves a lot of elderly dinner with all the etiquette of the chrism. I do not know why 'but reminds me of an old English butler. Style and impeccable formalism, for the sin of bar glasses adjusted with an adhesive tape which is losing a little 'style.
Eat good cannelloni and a nice taste of sweet, since we were very undecided about which dessert to choose, he kindly offered us a nice mix of sweet including cake Gaiman for excellence, obviously made by the lady and her ' Chef of the hotel. We always know when to get the things they do with their hands.
The Welsh tradition in this country and then the rite of you 'the Island and also in the hotel know that there are a lot of teapots, all with a cover made crochet teapot. I do find amusing though somewhat 'Pacchiana. I seem things of the past. Fortuna che non c'e 'My mother, otherwise it would have copied the idea and the whole family would have been' live 'to crochet teapot!

Overnight: Hotel Restaurant Unelem - Avda E. Tello y 9 de Julio - Gaiman - Phone (02965) 491663 - $ 98 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

El Bolson

After a good breakfast with bread, butter and jam and a nice slice of fresh home-made starting at the time of the Andes. The road that separates us from the mountains and 'so much' we put ourselves immediately in the car, and fortunately 'asphalt. There are many step to do and that the road map, the RN25, through a rather desolate land. Equipped with everything you need and with the full machine to leave for our road.
What about the route? wide open spaces. Are very characteristic of the steps in the road near the valle de las Ruinas where the road runs along part of the river which, on its banks a green and luxuriant vegetation, and then drops down in Paso de los Indios, where the road passes between high conformations rocks of a particular red.
The traffic and 'almost' does not exist, sometimes you meet some machine, you see something in the distance, but stay for the rest and 'all desolate.
The car of the machine does not receive any station, any time we stop to stretch my legs a little 'legs. On the way there are lots of guinea pig and flattened prey that perched on fence posts waiting for their prey. During a break, we have not made time to fall from the machine that three vulture was flying in a circle on our heads. It calms kids? not 'yet time for lunch with our ruins!
At some point we leave the RN 25 to pursue NR62 where he will meet and continue on the famous RN40, the road of Patagonia in this area and fortunately 'asphalt.
The first encounter with some 'people do it to the service station of Teck. A nice way of people also go because 'there are no other then?
I kilometers to go and are so 'many that almost like a mirage it always searches the horizon to see the mountains tick.
Our destination for today and 'El Bolson. What was the capital of civilization 'Hippy still can be seen, but have grown increasingly hippy remained. E 'stata la prima citta' in Argentina to define 'free zone and common ecological'. Outside a supermarket, two women with a lot of tape on the forehead and dress style 'flower children', with their children go barefoot on a pk-up that has seen better times, much better.
The center and 'all a ferment and a swarming of people, are the dismantling of market stalls, but the City' and 'just being stormed by tourists.
We do a scappatina to information to see to find some news on some path to be traveled on foot. The tizia with which we speak has no clear ideas about what a path but unable to sell us a map with some paths. We were not accustomed to all this confusion and all these people, especially, El Bolson, there seems a place to vacation for families because strollers and wheelchairs definitely abound.
For dinner we chose a lease on the main street (Calabaza - $ 37), it intrigues the Milan calabaza but when we discover that it is the Milanese but not meat pumpkin folded on two beautiful plates of ravioli with butter. They are not bad even if the pasta e 'un po' too anemic, and 'very white, and not' of course pasta all'uovo.
Rather stay in a fairly new hotel on the outskirts of the city '($ 80 (double room with shared bathroom - BB).

Rifugio Piltriquitron (El Bolson)

Despite the seven we are ready to make breakfast operations for breakfast moooolto are slow, calm sudamericana usual, but we hurry. The sun e 'gia' high and also a lot warmer here, and we have traveled a long path to walk and even go up to Bariloche. The train is literally come breakfast sleep. I have time to get back in the room, prepare all the stuff that he does not have brought the milk, it still has milk.
Left the hotel and walk down the street towards 258 South and turn the not very good dirt road taken in Villa Tourism that after 13 kilometers brings us to the parking lot where we leave the car to take the path that will lead 'to Shelter Piltriquitron and from here, if one wants to, until Piltriquitron Cerro. Fortunately, the trail passes into the forest because 'il sole e' gia 'and another is already' a lot of heating. We arrive at the first forest Tallada, it is a forest where the logs were cut to make sculptures, very nice and original. From there, a little 'and arrive at the refuge: a timber that has a good view. There are two dogs, a cat that sleeps under a bush and two horses grazing in the shade. Managers, two young boys are trafficking in the house adjacent to the refuge. The tranquility 'and the peace of the place and route only music transmitted by radio retreat. A real shame.
From the refuge, he continued, on a steep path along a disused ski lift, to the Cerro Piltriquitron. This area, east of El Bolson and 'very characteristic of Camarca Andina.
The wind and 'only in crest and' hot. A condition different from those we have experienced so far.
Do not come in until the tip of cerro because 'time is short, but lunch on a beautiful cucuzzolo that gives us a nice view over El Bolson and the mountains in front, at the end was that we wanted to see, a superb panorama.
El Bolson and 'the city more' near the parque nacional Puelo Lake, it is 15 km from the city '. Lake Puelo and 'a beautiful blue lake, we we can see a piece from the top' of cucuzzolo we have chosen.
Coming down we meet several people that goes to the refuge. It is very hot, the soil and 'very dry and dusty and I remember a book that I read on Patagonia, which is called powder-in shoes' of the beautiful had the right title. El Bolson also marks the boundary of Patagonia and this means that the end there economic benefit associated with this land, as petrol sold at discounted prices.
There are several checkpoints outside the country. The police stopped all the cars, usually asking you where coming from and where are you going, check the passports and wish you a pleasant journey. I read the guide who had height and authoritarian attitudes, which could ask for money. None of this. I have always been kind and courteous. A curious thing, and that nobody has ever asked for the car documents or driving license.
We arrive at San Carlo de Bariloche on the late afternoon. Bariloche e 'una citta' very extensive. The first impact with the city 'and its degraded suburbs, slums, slum several, shabby houses, dusty and unpaved roads. The center is instead 'a thriving tangle of streets, shops and hotels. It 'very chaotic and crowded so we decide to go and look for a hotel outside the city'. Besides all the parking in the city 'and' fee and all non e 'nemmeno too, saw their economic standard.
So we take 'the road along the lake that leads to Cerro Campanario and view some' of large hotels but we would find something like a B & B or un'hosteria, a place without too much confusion. So 'we come to the Hosteria del Cuore. We are somewhat 'dubious whether to enter or not, seems a somewhat' too distinctive and luxurious for our portfolio, but he can afford. The owner, and 'a Roman lady who lived for years in Argentina. He showed us our room and tells us something about the city '. 'It is strange how these days we always talked to her, Italy, Argentina and in the end we are left without knowing her name. The Hosteria and 'really adorable, characteristic pulic and well kept. Our room and 'beautiful, the area, although close to the main road, and' very quiet, very good choice also!
Stowed our stuff in town we go '. San Carlo de Bariloche and 'a very prestigious tourist town, you see the target of its restaurants, its hotels and many shops. He has the good fortune of having not just a summer tourist season but also varies quite a winter season because of the countless tracks in the area. Although its winter ski slopes are not the most 'beautiful of South America, the worldliness' of Bariloche attracts many tourists who do not want to practice only ski, but relax in the many homes you' or ciccolaterie, linger at restaurants and perhaps make small hours in one of the many nightclubs ... in short ... let .. Cortina d'Ampezzo la Argentina.
For summer visitors, there are many alternative kinds of countless trekking for those who enjoy venturing into the sport, the short stroll to everyone, climbs in the mountains that lift aerosilla call here, and lots of sun and lots of water on the banks of the lakes, between in Lake Nahuel Huapi from his name to a national park in this area. The waters of the lakes, although alpine lakes in the summer with a temperature such that e 'can take a bath.
We are here to make hiking so 'let's go to the home of the local CAI have some information on the trails and then you give us shopping while waiting for the arrival time of dinner. This evening we want to eat trout patagonica cosi 'choose a room (La Parilla de Julian) that has this dish on its menu' and continue the evening by visiting one of the many chocolate shops in town '. Mamma mia che shop, to die from envy of the best chocolate in Italy!

Overnight: Hosteria del Cuore - Avda Bustillo 4788 - SC de Bariloche - Tel (09244) 443566 - the cuore@bariloche.com.ar - $ 100 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Lopez refuge (S.C. de Bariloche)

Alarm clock early, breakfast and then the path towards our goal of the day. The refuge Lopez. From the center of S. C. de Bariloche westward along Lake Nahuel Huapi, just over the cable to the Cerro Campanario turn and cross the Lake Moreno then along. Around a sharp curve to the right appears in the left to the hut but that Lopez 'neglect to park a few hundred meters to the right near the river from where the Lopez path (indicator panel on wood). Then leave the car, all alone.
The trail, mostly in the forest, steep rises along the river cashed up to the track (dirt) employment of refuge ending a 15-20 minute journey from the refuge. Every so often the path leaves the depths of the forest and offers breathtaking views of the lake Moreno and the mountains around.
The day and 'very hot and non c'e' nemmeno Filettino a fresh wind that there would be just fine. In some points the trail and 'its sunny and it seems to me almost melt in the sun. The land and 'very sandy and is walking a fine raises fuss.
At one point the trail encounter a forest trail, as I said, and continue on this for a bit and then return to a path that leads to rifuglio. We are almost there to the hut which we exceeded by half 4x4 with some people on board. If one did not want to walk can 'pay for this service offered by the shelter that you scorazza until the end of this street off, so' to be done on foot it is just little. Well ... seen to it that we kept the first absolute position and gives us a lot of discomfort that these beautiful fall here all rested and they come first on the refuge accelerated pace. We should not speed up much because 'my speed' snail from dead, as Mark calls it, and 'well above the speed' of three people who arrived. Cosi 'come to the shelter first. I system on a beautiful stone in front of the shelter while Marco decides to go to reach the summit of Cerro Lopez.
Slowly begin to reach even more people, some visibly tired for the whole route path other hand, although they are tired and destroyed one understands clearly that have benefited from the switch off. Personally, I always give a little 'annoyance these things, because' the end is not 'those who need to use them but pigracci and pigracci as I am concerned can also stay at home.
A group of three people including a bimbetta about 6 years they walked in the direction of Cerro Lopez. Mark them down and I met with the binoculars I watched the way traffic in the midst of rocks and snow. After much good risked slipping and waver on what to do follow the path of descent but never could be that people should always drive in certain situations. If you know the one thing you do not but if you do not bring us a bimbetta with the risk that not only make you ill if you do it yourself! The unconscious we are everywhere!
In the afternoon and return after a good shower and arranged all'Hosteria Heart go in town '. I go to change the strap of my watch and that is' broken. Mark and 'very amused because' just wants to see how do I make myself understand dall'orologiaio. Find a store in a little alley crammed full of watches, including a cucu '. Inside a pair of elderly serving customers. At Marco facciaccia can understand me and the lady starts to pull out boxes and boxes of bracelets to find the extent of my clock. Found the measure I choose a burgundy, and with him I am sorry to do this than them, compared to the other that showed me, cost a little 'more'. I ask the price and you always do with regret, I said that costs 8 pesos. Won! If you think that the last time I changed it to Italy, I spent 10 euros, it would be someone to take stock!
For dinner we wanted to go to eat the Parilla, but given that the time zone here for dinner and not 'in sync with our switch to a restaurant that makes pasta and pizza (Como pizza and pasta - $ 31). Obviously we have only ourselves. We chose a nice table in front of the glass and we order our pizza. We can not understand one ingredient of the pizza that we would choose. The waitress tries in vain to understand us, our pocket dictionary does not find the end goes into the kitchen and this leads him to see: basil. Ah .. understand why hours' continued to engage with the tomato and sauce.
I am just past eight in the rest of our trip we had no problems whatsoever with this time, the premises at this teeming with people, those already here 'are open deserts.
When we entered the premises was an English music but after that's just here the voice of Pausini, not 'that brings me a lot, but we have heard the entire album while cenavamo. We are almost at the end of sweet when the owner comes to us to see the moon is rising from the waters of Lake Nahuel Huapi, in all its glory reflected light on the lake. A beautiful performance. However, we leave the room and 'still desert .. Boh .. but when you make dinner !?!?! By contrast the streets of downtown are crowded with tourists and full of life.
Piu 'tardi, while we return to the hotel, we pass in front of the room where we dined, and' full of people. I watch the clock and the 11 past, but it seems the time to dine!

Overnight: Hosteria del Cuore - Avda Bustillo 4788 - SC de Bariloche - Tel (09244) 443566 - the cuore@bariloche.com.ar - $ 100 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Lake Schmoll, lake Tonchek and Frey refuge (S.C. de Bariloche)

We do breakfast calmly around the meantime we want to do this morning and 'subject to the opening of the chairlifts. Cosi '10 just before we are in the ticket queue in front of the lifts at Villa Cathedral, we must also fill in a register where I sign up for all those wishing to travel these paths.
In this area there are lots of lifts, but with the exception of what we are going to take us, the others are open only during the winter. This is a very popular ski resort in winter, given its close distance to Bariloche (20 km).
Take a cable car first and then a chair lift which leaves us just below the hut Lynch (chair lift and cable car cost $ 24 (one way)).
Before you travel the path we have chosen and 'importance go to the local office of the CAI to check the snow and the state of the path. Effectively and 'a beautiful trail but the snow could become a bit difficult and not affordable.
The path and 'spectacular, offering spectacular views of valleys and mountains. Initially proceeds in a south-west first across the barren ridges of these mountains that are part of the chain of Cerro Cathedral. The views of the valley below dell'Arroyo Rucaco are very beautiful. In the distance you can see the ice of Mount Tronador we're going to see tomorrow. The trail also takes place slightly below the ridge, passing under the imposing Cerro Cathedral. Passes through a stony and sometimes it is necessary to use both hands to move as the path and 'so to' say, dug in the rock. However, and 'one of the most' beautiful trails we have in Argentina.
We arrive on the hill of Roca inclinada from where the descent begins and where we see for the first time the great valley from which we must descend. We cross a small snowfield to get off to the beautiful Lake Schmoll, surrounded by rocks and mountains. A brief stop with the feet attached bath in the waters of the lake. To be a mountain lake of its water is not 'not at all cold, and' even be a nice soak with water up to the ankles, there are even people in costume that swim in its waters.
Return before going down to the lake to get to Tonchek refuge Frey. The view of the pyramidal tower that dominates the valley and 'beautiful. There are several tents along the lake and several people who can relax with a swim in the lake, plus a few paperotto that you can enjoy the sun. Really great place!
Frey Shelter From the car park where we left the car there between 12 km. Am I wrong to think about it all day and that way and I have not yet finished. Cosi 'because it is not' not even so much as we are along the path of descent. The trail allows the sight of another valley, then goes into the woods and then through an area, halfway up, where you can 'see the lake Gutierez. Very strange as the vegetation, the area seem to bamboo canes'. The path from the Rifugio until the machine 'was lungo.Sono piu' that convinced that whoever designed this trail ce had with trekkers. E 'un continuo salts down and not ever arrive.
We arrive at our car that are just past the 19 so this evening we can go and eat quietly Parilla, we should not have problems with opening hours of restaurants.
Piu 'tardi let the Hosteria del Cuore not before he had chatted a little' with the husband of the owner, an Argentine who speaks perfect Italian. So 'we enter the restaurant (La Parilla de Julian), which increased from nine a piece. In local, there are only a few tables occupied, we accommodate the order and Parilla. E 'un po' less choreographed than in Ushuaia, but the chef and 'the same in front of his grill which selects the pieces to be cooked according to the menu' ordered by the customer. We have chosen a Parilla only meat, their recipe 'complete' includes the intestines and various other pieces that do not inspire me at all. As the different types of meat that make the dish the chef prepared them leads directly to the desktop and system on a wooden cutting board. Already beginning to go out 'from the ears when it does that and said that' the last piece. And with relief that we try to finish this piece even as the cook if they come with a new piece that was still saying that. Asks us if we want to do a piece but some of us more 'that satiated. But despite this .... Zot ... there another piece trims. Leave the restaurant with belly literally in their hands ... we ate too much. We make two passes through the town 'and along the shores of the lake to dispose see this entire eaten.

Overnight: Hosteria del Cuore - Avda Bustillo 4788 - SC de Bariloche - Tel (09244) 443566 - the cuore@bariloche.com.ar - $ 100 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Monte Tronador (S.C. di Bariloche)

At breakfast I told Mark that she has dreamed all night the cook last night that kept portagli meat to eat .. a nightmare. I confess that for a while 'is not to hear about meat, anything but meat. Ah ah ah ha ...
Today we go to visit an area del parque nacional Nahuel Huapi, the area surrounding the mountain where Tronador behind this impressive mountain (3554 m) rises the Ventisquero negro, or black ice. The entrance to the park costs $ 12.
By car passes beyond the area of Pampa Linda, where there is' a small house in the park and continue until the end of the road to get so 'area at the base of Mount Tronador (3554 m). To get here you go a long dirt road that for a long time along the Lake Mascardi. This road and 'a single lane so they are stable for times when you can' go up and the times when you can 'get off, because this' the road in places and' its close.
A lake of glacial origin stems from Ventisquero negro, in his black water we see small icebergs float. As the name implies, and 'just a black glacier, the water is decidedly dark.
Arriving at your destination leave the car near the shelter and we are moving towards a path that we have described since I do not know where that went home no more 'managed to retrieve the references to this route. We must cross the river and the bed itself and the 'very extended and moved so many' just the beginning of the path and 'submerged by water, in order to move we must make the balance on large fallen logs. The trail climbs and then to the right side of the river, and goes quite steeply, from time to time there are huge logs from bypass or trick. The view that you can enjoy from the top 'and' very good but nothing that '. One can see the glacier and the waterfall at the bottom of the valley.
Unlike other places here there are a lot of flies fastidiosissime, so 'take the path of descent and we eat on the benches near the shelter in the shade of trees.
In the afternoon we continue the way back by a few stops here and there for some nice photos of the area and calmly observe the landscape.
Back to dinner in the same restaurant where we took the pizza two nights ago. Obviously we have again only two of us and this time make us listen to the album Ramazzotti. When we entered the music was different but soon after, voila 'un po' di musica locally. We appreciate the gesture. This evening we order pasta, Mark I pen of ravioli. Very good, have nothing to envy to those of the shop. In any case, the chef, comes to greet when we pay the bill and wants to know how the dough, and give us some postcards of the area.
Shame that we go there tomorrow, we found some new friends.

Overnight: Hosteria del Cuore - Avda Bustillo 4788 - SC de Bariloche - Tel (09244) 443566 - the cuore@bariloche.com.ar - $ 100 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Esquel

Oggi e 'St Valentine and even we had thought. When e 'in the holiday schedule is not important. To see and do in the area there is still time, you could go the way of the seven lakes to the city 'of San Martin de los Andes, but the time available to us begins to run low and then take the way back.
It 'must, before leaving the city', make a final visit to the charming center of Bariloche his buildings with wood and stone. There are a few scattered St. Bernard dogs for the square is no coincidence but smart owners can make some impressive shooting with dogs in the background of the square in return, of course, money.
We stop for lunch at El Bolson and to assess whether stop even one day, we would still trail here, but after being at the local office of the CAI, which informs us that for years no more trace 'the path we had chosen take the car and we head towards Esquel. There were other possibilities' and other paths, but we begin to feel the weight of the fatigue of this journey for which we would like to travel a path not too long, we have more 'feel like traipsing down to 20 km but not for an hour stroll. But the cross seems to be no. In the last few days has done so hot, the kind owner of the Heart dell'Hosteria told us that this was a particularly hot year, and we are beginning to feel nostalgia for our cold winter.
We move so 'to Esquel, a town that' was founded at the beginning of the twentieth century, and 'now the main commercial center and market of livestock in the region of Chubut. Of fact and 'a quiet place that can' be used as a base to visit the national park near Los Alerces. A curiosity ', the name of the city' comes from an indigenous word meaning 'swamp' or 'place of cardoons' The name I find it rather amusing!
As for accommodation there is a structure similar to a motel, so 'to book a room here, then we go into the center of the town to do a lap. Is not 'it's a crab'. There are tree-lined boulevards with huge alerci. We pass information to the office to see what are the possibilities' of the area. Arriving, we stick to a mountain overlooking the city 'with a cross in the tip, we ask to news information. Well ... not understand the reasons but this lady makes us understand that even if there is a road that goes up in points and that there 'will enjoy a beautiful view of the place does not advertise so' people do not go there. We try in vain to find a way up this mountain, but run through the streets of the rough more 'untidy of Esquel is not' easy. The roads are bad, and people 'on the streets, children and dogs that suddenly cut the road, scrap and junk scattered here and there'. After a while 'attempts to leave to stay, if we do not want to go there but how are we going to do strange!
Esquel and 'the station of the famous train Tonquita that I could not see. The road runs along the rail but I do not and 'never come across a train in motion. The Tonchi and 'a steam train that was traveling at great speed' of 30 per hour, bringing passengers from Esquel to El Maiten. Today you can 'take as a tourist attraction ever to Esquel to Nahuel Pan, and then return by bus. There 'still a passenger service between Esquel and El Maiten that uses the beauty of nine hours.
The choice of room and 'found a winner and the place and' reasonably quiet. Our car and 'dusty so disgusting as to' take advantage of this huge yard to give the windows a ripulitine and brush our shoes, are so dusty that you can not understand what was their original color. At one point we see the owner of the motel coming meeting and as between one thing and another we did a nice pasticcetto in the courtyard with the water fear that we're coming to the manhole, so 'I am me and I leave the wire Marco them out to face the ire of the lady. But she and 'simply failed to show a rubber attached to a faucet that if we wanted we could use to wash the car. We lack, not even wash our cars at home for those figured rental.
We go for dinner in a pizzeria (Don Pipo - $ 18.50) in the center, even here there are problems with time zones, so 'we are at 8 only to have dinner in the room but I have no desire to wait. After dinner we walk to the village where the shops are still open, the closing time for the 22 marks. It 's not bad idea to close most' latest lets you do your shopping after dinner. I wonder if 'a habit reserved for tourist attractions oe' a habit of Argentina. In any case, not all are open, most likely everyone is, rightly, as they like.

Accommodation: Hostal la Hoya - Av Ameghino y libertat - Esquel - tel (02945) 451697 - $ 110 (double room with shared bathroom - B & B)

Puerto Madryn

Climb in the car aware of the long journey that awaits us, obviously not a long time since we moved here for big news' is not there, we could return to Buenos Aires with a flight from Bariloche but we managed to balance the dates and itinerary.
We arrive in Puerto Madryn in the afternoon. This is a city 'on the coast being stormed by tourists during this time of year. Its streets teeming with restaurants, shops and restaurants. The beach and 'full of people, there' but the wind in this area and 'hot.
Puerto Madryn has a favorable position lying in an inlet of the Gulf Nuevo. It was founded by Welsh settlers in 1886, we see that not everyone liked Gaiman. Ah ha! . Puerto Madryn and 'the second port of the country with regard to fishing and' the seat of the first aluminum smelter Argentina. The establishments are there and you can clearly see, I am not sure of low environmental impact.
We choose a hotel on a side street not far from the center with parking, because 'a parking place in Puerto Madryn and' all things to pay, not only in the vicinity 'of the center.
I feel a little 'to be returned with the girl when you went to my sea for the summer holidays. There are many families with children who crowd the beach or along the ocean, chissa 'as you call. There are playgrounds and one of those mattresses that elastic like both pargoletti. The beach and 'crowded, the sea, by wind, and' a bit rough, but Puerto Madryin has the air of the town on the sea being stormed by holidaymakers from the beach. A classic seaside tourist town, as there are so many of us.
The City 'and still' great on the road along the sea there are some houses and some villas in a luxury impressive, to say nothing of some hotels.
Among other things done today, we also bought the mate. We went to the supermarket, where an entire lane was dedicated to "is, which to choose? Flavored, regular, there was for all tastes and all the forms in bulk and in sachets. So I choose that which I tasted just once, and now I wanted a little 'to take home to distribute to friends and family. A random selection does not seem good, the one with the paper more 'colorful .. either & ... the choice is prolonged and Marco are impatient .. at one point a lady comes, I snatch three packages of a type and puts them in the cart! Well ... operate the same choice if they take three parcels so sick should not 'be. This event.
It 'called Mate, which is an infusion prepared with the leaves of Mate "is, originally from South America. Proceedings and 'similar to that of common te': Mate the grass is dried, cut and shredded.
The Argentines and those who want to respect tradition, like our friend Luke are hot this infusion using a metal straw called bombilla. The grass is put in a small container called a mate and we are being paid above the hot water.
This tradition used by the Indians and 'learned and been endorsed by the Spanish and Portuguese colonizers. Later it was adopted as a traditional gaucho drink in many parts of South America, where Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and throughout the Andes.
In Argentina and drinking mate 'a daily ritual, and' very common to see people around with your mate that suck the bombilla. Un po 'a mania I say, but those delusions that do not bother anyone and keep alive the folklore and traditions of a people.
Personally I do not exalt, un po 'amaretto for my tastes. Io pero 'non ho provato la versione piu' folk of the thing but what they define 'Mate cocido', which works just like you, is the infusion into the cup with the bag.
And after they mate on the good news back to Puerto Madryn.
The air, by wind, and 'so cool' illusions we do not have to suffer the heatwave is our night The hotel is not 'air-conditioning and to be honest I do not like to sleep with the air conditioning turned on, but our room, despite the wide open window is still pretty hot.

Accommodation: Hotel Carrera - marcos A. Tsar 844 - Tel 802965) 450759 - www.hotelcarrera.com.ar - $ 120 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Peninsula Valdes

After a good breakfast we put ourselves in the car in the direction of the Valdes peninsula. Stra place described by guide. E 'famous for its scenery and for colonies of sea lions and elephants stationed on its coasts, and especially for whales. But this is' another story because 'whales stationed in these waters during the month of November so ... I took some 'wrong to read a timetable or not we'll see. In addition to these animals you can meet guanacos, rhea ', other seabirds and even whales rarely.
The Peninsula Valdes argue is one of the most 'beautiful wildlife reserves of South America ... exaggerated .... Much of the surface of this reserve and 'ownership' of estancia we breed the sheep, more than animals above, there are so many sheep!
The entrance to the peninsula coast $ 35. Shortly after the gate there is' an information center where you can find some 'information on the peninsula, on the local fauna and Where' kept even a whale skeleton. Oggettino slightly cumbersome. There 'also a tower whose top' one sees the immense expanse of this peninsula. What can we say? The Landscape and 'desolate, arid and dry and the colors are all shades' with yellow and brown, which c'avranno then feed these poor sheep, saw the green fields of our pastures die of envy.
First we make a leap in Puerto Piramides. Reminds me of a village of fishermen. There 'a lot of life around, perhaps the bulk of tourists parked in the country in November, when we are all boat trips to spot whales. Indeed trips at sea for the sighting of whales depart from the pier all of this village.
Our first step, and 'Piramides tip near the village. Here's' a colony of sea lions. If they are all blissfully sonnechiare to the sun. A lone male is a 'scene but no one sees. Some small attempt to play with their mothers who were tired sleeping in the sun.
We move then towards Punta Delgada, where there is' a beacon, but 'in a private area, and' built a hotel which can not be 'if you do not enter the hotel or enjoy the restaurant. There 'also a public area but at this time and' closed due to landslides on the ground.
The next stop Punta Cantor. The road along the coast and the countryside and 'un po' piu 'varied. The wind and 'very strong if not careful you take off the door of our poor car. Here we can again admire the adorable Magellanic penguins. There are not many like to Punta Tombo, but enough to scent the air. Of course we lose a lot of time behind the Penguins. Also in this area there are also the Elephant Seals. Impressive. I am drawn to the sun and they seem huge. Do not you see closely, but from a promontory overlooking the beach. Sin. There 'also a reserve guard and a small cottage with details of sightings. The day before yesterday had been seen un'orca, now a beautiful thing. Scrutinized a little 'the sea with the binoculars but we are not so' fortunate.
The last stop of the day Punta Norte. And here we find only the sea lions. There may be even elephant, but have failed.
For dinner we chose the restaurant of a hotel (Hotel Yanco Vale - $ 25). To serve at the tables there 'also a child of around eight to ten years, some' rotondino but very willing. It breathlessness and right-left to clean tables, carry dishes, taking orders. E 'a spectacle to see so much traffic' that before we leave to go away even a little 'tip at the bottom and if the' whole deserved.

Accommodation: Hotel Carrera - marcos A. Tsar 844 - Tel 802965) 450759 - www.hotelcarrera.com.ar - $ 120 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Puerto Madryn

Now the holiday is nearly over .. We have taken a day of respite to rest. We have been able to do many things but a day of relaxing lounge around without haste it takes itself. We wake up calmly, we prepare our stuff and we go around Puerto Madryn. Take two sandwiches for lunch as we go to eat in the area of El Doradillo north of Puerto Madryn in the direction of Penissula Valdes. It 'an area of beach that is reached along the ruta 42, a very wide dirt road that runs along the coast. E 'un-protected area municipal and there' also a center, with a tower to spot the whales, but it 's all closed. Access to this area and 'free, even during the season sighting of whales. In El Doradillo there 'a lot of people, a tent camp here and there and some people on the beach. Today the wind and 'very strong, perhaps for this park on the beach is not' very nice. C'e 'high tide and the sea covered part of the beach.
In the afternoon we look at a nature reserve where there is' a colony of sea lions: the natural area of Punta Loma. Located just south of Puerto Madryn immediately after an area of high sand dunes. Admission costs $ 10 there are two species of balconies that allow viewing of the animals but we must 'wait for low tide to free the beach from the water. With the fall of sea level the sea lions slowly come and go from sea to earn their place in the sun. At sea you can see from time to time the emergence Testini in animals, but most 'of the time we see the arrival of an animal when it' came almost on the beach.
Piu 'latest return to Trelew and advantage to take possession of our room and stroll through the town'. The room we have reserved this time and 'better than before, Mark was right that he wanted to give him confidence and confirm the reservation. Obviously this has seen better times but at least e 'piu' dignified and decent than the last week.
Trelew although 'retains some historic buildings and now' a particularly important commercial center. Born in 1886 as a railway junction and is named after a merger and storpiatura two Welsh words. If you had not understood the Welsh in this area were made by owners.
We visit the central part of the city 'and the Independence Plaza and its side streets and the famous av. Fontana. Reach Plaza del Centenario and bring us up to the Park recreational Laguna Cacique Chiquichiano. E 'carino the park, there are the colorful benches, the dock on the lake, but' completely desert. Everything seems relatively recently I do not understand if it is not 'yet been used or if' was built but none if the row and then as often happens in this country suggest that things drifting away from the sun. There is also a kind of kiosk but 'closed, if it had never been opened or not it is not clear. Some chair scattered here and there but nothing more ', which suggests that one day will open'.
Let a little 'time to relax on a bench. It 'a shame that there are none. It 'a beautiful place and it' also a lot of quiet and 'above all a green corner in this arid area.
The City 'and' lively, we are in the carnival and 'inspired by people in masks. A stretch of main street (Av. fountain) and 'closed for the festivities. They're setting up a stage and most 'latest music full volume festive and people will fill' the road.

Accommodation: Cheltum Hotel - Avda H. Yrigoyen 1385 - Trelew - tel (02965) 431066 - www.cheltumhotel.com.ar - $ 78 (double room with shared bathroom - BB)

Trelew

I wake up very early not because 'I did not sleep because of hot, but because' the room above has decided to call according to the window so that the whole block can delight of his conversation. Damn the phones! I do not know that this is done is that I am to hear all the many phone calls looking for a hotel room for a single lady (it strikes me this way he described Miss .. alone .. and then who knows' what does to understand) that has the TV and is available immediately. Last night we heard arguing with someone, and perhaps' the boyfriend who has downloaded and I think there are 5 am and already this' break! The luck every now and assist us tizia finally finds the room, after a while 'we hear the door slam, and we know that you can' return to sleep!
We have no more 'so much to sleep' at 8, however we must be at the airport. We leave the car and this time we have to pay for an extra mileage that we have traveled in excess of those agreed but nothing more 'than I had expected. So much for curiosity 'I checked the book to discover the car that was registered less than 12 months earlier. Mamma mia, looking from the outside would not have some say. Among stamps, various bruises and righettine the body seems much more 'old. Besides all the side door of the driver has a spifferi that seems to go in motion. Well .. I have a little 'exaggeration but there spifferi'. And maybe 'or been forced chissa'.
The airport of Trelew and 'child, and seen with the light of the sun and' even more 'comfortable. A souvenir shop, a bar and a little more ', we immediately check-in and pay the airport tax in the office ($ 6.05).
The flight to Buenos Aires and 'calm. From here, to reach Ezeiza decide to take a car remisis (remises Universe - $ 64). We could also take a bus, there are linking the two airports, but the cost difference is not 'a lot and the car and' more 'comfortable.
And so 'begins drawbench check-in, airport taxes ($ 55.44), passport control, boarding, and waiting queues and adios Argentina, perhaps one day come back!
A curious note of the flight and that the staff was all to same male but now, in return, they are all women. Ugly but the people say if the male and 'fared better. More 'professional. So ... to any of these expensive hostess someone should explain that 'little professional scorazzare corridors for aircraft, being down humming' che bello che bello descend ranging Jun''or serve meals to people say to my colleague in the face "I can not wait to go home to get a shower because I 'm all sweat'. And cabbage ... un po 'di professionalita' ... are still the ladies!

And so 'and' finished our journey. Landed in Turin by the white snow. We started with the snow and come back with the snow, after the heat of the last few days there seems almost a relief to put gloves and scarf. The Olympic event and 'to highlight the City' and 'dressed in their Sunday best and for us, we left a sleepy Torino with the slow machine of the games that you were starting, and' almost a surprise to find her best dress, cheerful, bustling with people, life and color and Patagonia with its colors with the people we think nostalgically cosi 'lontana.

GUIDE:
Argentina 3rd Edition - EDT (Lonely Planet) - Ed in Italian
Trekking in Patagonia 1st edition - EDT (Lonely Planet) - Ed in Italian
Argentina Chile 1st Edition - Rough Guides - travel Avallardi