Two weekends in the capital of Tango. Journey to Buenos Aires, Argentina

Two weekends in the capital of tango.

 

Arrival in Buenos Aires from Nice (France) via Madrid.

There had been in November 2004 on the occasion of his trip to Patagonia, we passed four times in the various rounds up and down for Argentina, with short breaks of a day or two. Also on this occasion was not the goal but the Buenos Aires Uruguay, but we wanted to find time for two weekends, one top and one at the end dellla vacation, spent in a town that we liked and that offers much to tourists. The micro-, which I found on this occasion too much controlled by the police, within a mile, taking the obelisk as the epicenter, offers two spledide pedestrian streets, excellent for shopping: Florida and Lavalle. In Florida there is also the prestigious Galleria Pacific with its three floors of elegant shops. The favorable exchange rate helps a lot, both in costs and in restaurants. The goddess was not to exaggerate in wanting to see too many things as we waited for a holiday in Uruguay quite eventful.
We are limited, therefore, not to deviate too much from the obelisk.
As lunch a couple of "empanadas de carne" in a coffee shop in Florida, a little 'shopping and then to the hotel on Avenida Corrientes, trying to sell off the fatigue of long hours of travel and the change time zone: we arrived in late morning. In the late afternoon near downtown. Crossing the Plaza de Mayo - the square in front of the Casa Rosada - we note that near the obelisk that territory, have literally camped out in tents in the precarious nylon (from which transpire mattresses, blankets, pots and stoves) War Veterans of the islands Malvinas who, with flashy banners protesting, very civilly, claiming some of their rights. Surrounding stood and spoke about twenty of them recognizable for clothing. Each wears at least one piece of clothing military who pants, jacket, who, who cap. At one point must be seen and one of them before giving the careful salutes towards the Casa Rosada. I see that the flag is lowered from the flagpole in front of the presidential palace and I understand why team of instructors, the attentive and greeting. To ternine, the veteran who turns waving and pointing to those classified cries: "Viva la Patria" and the others break ranks. I find myself thinking that after all that passed, both physically and morally, it takes courage to sing praises goes through my mind too that it might join the protest. In returning to Avenida Corrientes, I realize that, also in the Plaza de Mayo, in 2004 I noticed and photographed a murals showing a white circle on the sidewalk, bordered by a red, containing a military cap and the word "Juice and Punishment "in black. Same point, the murals was gone, as evidenced by the photos that I have provided. It also disappeared.
In the evening dinner and show at the House of Tango "Gardel Esquina" in quartirere Abasto. We knew the place because it already in the previous occasion so we wanted to repeat the satisfying experience. This time we reserved a table in a position much better than the last time. Dinner very good: we chose shrimp and then do not disturb the wine is "at will" The show consistently high level, with the solid accellenti artists and costumes. The orchestra seemed to us better.

Around the capital's downtown

Now the official name is "Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires" I forgot to ask if the title of "Capital Federal" is still valid. However, it is always the capital. We wanted to spend one more day before going to Uruguay, just to relax and so we did. The morning is still a bit of shopping in Florida and Lavalle, and then was planning to go to Calle Tucuman where there is an outlet of a famous brand of hats Argentina. We are on, walk the Calle Teniente General Juan Domingo Peron which is a parallel to Avenida Corrientes in the direction of our destination. After crossing the Avenida 9 de Julio (say that with its 108 m wide is the most "ancha" in the world) and thus past the obelisk, still continuing on Calle Peron at some point we noticed a restaurant very similar to those once were nell'angiporto of Genoa and were attended by workers. In plain view, a grid on which an elderly "Grills" was roasting chili meat. From the sidewalk very close and very shabby, we have given a glimpse inside and found that the furniture was quite modest trattorias similar to the above Genoa. We continue, not without promise herself that our lunch we would have consumed in that space. After a while, because of the heat we were tired and we asked how much was missing to get to where we had to go: The fact that the city is divided into "square" makes it very easy, knowing the number, to know how far a place , so we were told that there were still 1,800 meters to go. We decided that the best thing was to retrace our steps and go to find comfort in the restaurant we had seen before. The tables have been up to 50 x 50, however, in two, there was. Of course we asked Asada meat. Was very good, like all Argentina. Contour really delicious salad: arugula, tomatoes and onions, all cut very thin, as used in Liguria. Strangely enough, the customers were few, despite the enormous mass of cooked meat and cook who was on the grid. Another strange thing, the phone rang repeatedly. Then, from the owner who was the gentleman who served us with diligence (also with the Italian grandfather, as all the Argentines who respect ...) explained that there was much work and provided food around the neighborhood merchants, employees, workers and so dicebdo, food that is ordered by phone. After the dessert we asked for the bill and we spent 53 pesos for two (euro 10.60) including two 66 cl beers, a soda and bread. I am particularly pleased to report that "typical" local because it reminds me of my childhood in Genoa, then, prices (which we still rely heavily Genoese ...), both meat all the rest were really delicious. If not, it certainly would not receive so much success with the workers and employees of the "barrio". Even the name says it all ... "La Favorita de Todos" - Sandwicherie - Cafeteria - Parilla (sandwich de miga, triple de jamon y queso) Calle Teniente General Juan Domingo Peron nr. 1229. The card, which I propose, much craft and paper-based "normal" does not mind some form (cm. 6.5 x 4.5) but it makes the idea anyway, but in this case what counts is the substance ( meat ...).
Afternoon relaxation and a little shopping in the two pedestrian pending dinner where we meet with Leonardo and analysts, a young couple, recently married.
Analia is employed in the agency with whom we supported for our trip. They come to take us to the hotel and with their Volkswagen Gol (Gol, no Golf) go in the nearby barrio of Puerto Madero, where we had booked the restaurant La Caballeriza place for lovers of grilled meat, with very traditional decor, style riding, of course. Did not know them personally, only by contact but they were found a couple nice, with which we have not realized the pass of the four hours we were together. He had been in Italy, in Bologna, to buy equipment for the hospital and of course has done nothing but praise the Emilian cuisine that had been "injected" in large doses.
We have no past midnight the next morning had to take the "Buquebus" (ferry) that, in three hours to cross the Rio de la Plata would take us to the other side, in Montevideo.

Second weekend in Baires.

After two weeks in Uruguay, it was our intention to return to the Buquebus (ferry), as the first leg: three hours of comfortable relaxation on the Rio de la Plata. The times, however, was not in line to be on Saturday night in Buenos Aires where we had an appointment with Fernanda and Marcelo, a young age of our daughter, we had met three years ago when we were in Patagonia, to go to dinner at home of tango "El Viejo Almacen. A discreet up early, to be on holiday, to take the plane at 08:30 all'aeroposto of Carrasco, only flight of the morning. No time to get up and immediately landed all'Aeroparque. Morning at the center on foot. In the afternoon we met with Marcel, who has portative to have a coffee at the famous Café Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo, 725. It is worth dwelling a monento on what is considered an "icon" of Buenos Aires. Opened in 1858, takes its name from a local of the Boulevard des Italiens in Paris, a meeting point of the elite of Parisian culture of the nineteenth century. Over time, is attended by eminent personalities and has been declared a "site of national interest" dela Council of the City of Buenos Aires. Cafe Tortoni left us incaminiamo to Avenida Corrientes. Passing the Casa Rosada see some movement of people. There will be the changing of the guard in the form and ammainabandiera solemn as 196 th anniversary of the founding of the "Granaderos a caballo" the cavalry regiment that acts as a security guard and the President of the Republic. Shortly before 18 comes on foot, the regimental band, followed by a spike. All'ammainabandiera are also veterans of the Malvinas war which will defend themselves and after the greeting, as every evening ropono rows from the cry "Viva la Patria". After the ceremony, band concert in Columbus Park, behind the Casa Rosada. They see a thousand people, I would not have believed to see such participation in a military event.
One bus to take us to the hotel on Avenida Corrientes and brings us to the "Viejo Almacen", for dinner and tango show. Both the first and the second are of excellent quality. Talented artists. It also exhibits a complex that plays Andean music, much applauded.
And 'Sunday: Last day in Buenos Aires. We wanted to go see the markets of San Telmo, but we forget after crossing the "empty" Calle Florida and Lavalle. we walk to Puerto Madero. We visit the school-ship Navy "President Sarmiento", now retired and docked at Puerto to be visited by school groups and tourists. Lunch at Restaurant "La Caballeriza" not making us miss the last asado.
By late afternoon, heading towards the airport of Ezeiza, we note that the bikers are coming back to town on Sunday. Meadows cirsostanti highway can still be seen many people who undoubtedly will remain the "chorrasco" Evening you see the fire beneath the grills. Airport of Ezeiza is leaving a real sea of people of all nationalities. We have a great desire to return.
Covers. The holiday is even better because then it ends.