Two weeks in Patagonia with a trip to the Iguazu Falls.. Holidays in Chile, South America

"Patagonia is a homeland of the soul and spirit. It can be filled entirely by their own fantasies ... "
Jean Respall


The most sincere friends, and those who are known to be a presence, an irreplaceable, essential in the journey of my life.

Raffaele Banfi

 

Introduction

I'm leaving again for another tour, this time the destination is Patagonia, a land desolate and distant dal'Italia.

The tour includes a pass through up to Argentina in Tierra del Fuego, the so-called end of the world, landing (weather permitting and authority) to Cape Horn, the southernmost point of the globe, traces the Chilean Patagonia, pausing to view the Perito Moreno glacier in the huge and imposing, then visit the majestic and enormous waterfalls of Iguazu on the border with Brazil.
A trail is very demanding in terms of movements, climatic variations ed'umidità. The clothing should I prepare the heavy, light and looking at the weather forecast, even though Argentina is in spring, in some localities is expected cold and snow.

Following is my list of travelers prepare the inevitable "accessories" for the tour, and my digital SLR (Nikon DX40) cards with three in reserve, my inseparable Moleskine ® (the block for notes), pens, passport, travel plans, guides, and last but not least the necessary tickets.

I chose to travel guides:
• Argentina, published by Lonely Planet EDT - 4th Italian edition - November 2008;
• Chile and Easter Island, published by Lonely Planet-EDT; 6th Italian edition - June 2009.

Both the guides I find interesting for a list of places to visit, as well as provide a lot of "useful information" for the trip.
In the diary I will refer to the places I visited, indicating the help page prefixed with the country to facilitate traceability. Example: Argentina (p. A-LP.) Chile (p. C-LP.) So that those who wish to make in-depth references are required.

The program provides a meeting place at Milan Linate airport at 13.00. Let's start with Rovello by car to take Ambrogina Lorenzo goes, me and Louise: the fit between people in the car and luggage involves contortionist moves, but the desire to visit the Patagonia exceeds any logistical difficulties. Arriving at the airport are part of the group; pleasure meeting with George Ross and others with whom I shared trips, presentations are fast: in the coming days I will know better the other team members. The last to arrive, but accurate, and Salvatore, the head group, we all pack up and then embark for Rome, where the resume to be devoted to Buenos Aires.
Many friends, before leaving, I was "recommended" to take notes for the now usual travelogue, but above all to make beautiful photographs is to be published on my site, both for the multimedia version of my stories.
On board an Alitalia MD80 departing on time, since I have not yet explored the tour, I focus on reading this guide, Argentina and searches for that visit. I read that on some occasions there is no lunch, someone raises the question of what to eat, but this difficulty does not exist: Argentina is the kingdom of grilled meat, we will surely find some relief that will satisfy your palate.
We arrive in Rome on time at 15.20, we will take your bags and head to the check-in for Argentina, we are at the counter 409, where there is a long line of people all headed to Buenos Aires. Fearing a low temperature upon arrival we left home wearing heavy clothing, but we have not considered the hot climate in Rome, someone changed, other parade sweaters. At check-in inform us that we can not ship your luggage up to the city Trelew beginning of our tour, we will withdraw in Buenos Aires for new boats.
We climb 340 sull'Airbus dell'Argentinas Aerlines; latest sms greetings, and then turn off the phone find myself thinking about when my usual mode of communication, they are on holiday and business calls are right to remain in Italy. The only phone calls I make are to people close to me. The plane is partially filled, I'm sitting by the window, are 19.50 when on-board monitor that appears to travel along the route, the journey involves flying over Africa before crossing the Atlantic, because shortly after the appear lights of the city in Tunisia, looking at the individual in the dark shoreline, the harbor, the sea looks black but punctuated by the bright lights of the fishing boats. We are flying at 9,330 meters above sea level when the lights of the city leaving the African desert, the immense space in the dark of night.
The flight will take 14.30 hours and the arrival is scheduled in Buenos Aires at 5.50 local. After the heat of Rome, I find that the temperature during the trip, the cold weather damage, rain, snow and some sunny day: it's a nice dilemma to wear clothing.
Sitting next to me, a priest, Father Thomas of the Order Sons of Mary ", is Italian, Lazio, and for years lived in South India where he runs a mission by a seminar and some schools, with two brothers on his way in Chile for an international conference on the training of seminarians.
During the flight, dinner and then sleep all of a sudden we are told of fasten your seat belts: encountering a disturbance Atlantic jump.
Come the dawn of day, dawn lights up the sea of clouds below us, we're going down to Buenos Aires, and beyond the clouds I see a stretch of coast, are the local and 5.30 in a few minutes to land.

Part 1

The city of Buenos Aires (LP A-73) offers a unique view from above, straight roads intersect constantly creating a regular geometric pattern. The city is partially illuminated by street lamps to be irradiated by sunlight, towering skyscrapers to the sky and you see many green parks, and the sun rising, we welcome you.
Landings, customs control, withdrawal of cases, then we find out our guide: Silvia, a distinguished lady who will accompany us during the day boarding up the afternoon for Trelew. On board a bus we head towards the city. Located near a neighborhood of villas, are well kept and harmonious, is one of the most exclusive districts of the city lives here even Maradona. Not far are the training camps of the national soccer team, which, as in Italy, is the most popular sport.
Proceed slowly, we are in the middle of traffic to the capital, a huge and cosmopolitan city of over 16 million people on a national population of 40 million.
Arrived in the metropolis will be the first stop for breakfast, we travel vast avenues, passing in front of the parliament, through the Avenue July 9 and then we stop at "Cafe de los Angelitos" (A-122 LP), a local historian, during the day is a popular bar and the evening is a great reminder of the places where they dance the tango. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, the decor is early 1900, the walls are hung with photos of famous people from Argentina, including Fangio recognize and Che Guevara. We sit down and get a delicious breakfast, coffee, orange juice, cakes, pastries savory enough for a full meal, excellent and delicious.
Leave the room by coach and we are ready to make the tour of the city. We start from Viale July 9, 1816 (A-92 LP) is the date the union of the Argentine provinces, practically the birth of Argentina. The avenue has huge size is over three kilometers long, has a width of 149 meters and its track are as many as 16 lanes. The roads we travel are all decorated with plants that have flourished in this period, there are many jacaranda showing their beautiful purple flower, and occasionally plants with red flowers: the Seibo, the flower symbol of Argentina.
We arrived at Plaza de Mayo (May Square) (A-LP 89), at the center rises an obelisk, the pyramid de Mayo (A-LP 90), which bears the date May 25, 1810, the day of removal of the viceroy Spain and the declaration of Argentine independence from Spain. On one side of the square is a beautiful white colonial, the Cabildo (A-LP 90), now a museum, beside a beautiful French-style palace, while on the one hand there is the Metropolitan Cathedral (A-LP 90); made of baroque colonial fronted by a colonnade. The church, whose interior is decorated by a mosaic floor, has a large central nave, flanked by two aisles where there are chapels of the altar, is too baroque silver. In the side chapels are funerary monuments including the main one being the mausoleum of San Martin, Argentina's historic leader, a short distance to the chapel with the statue of Our Lady of Argentina protector.
Leaving the church we make around the square, heading towards the marble obelisk known that around it, brown on the floor are painted with white handkerchiefs tied around his neck, this place is full of meanings during the sad period of the dictatorship, the mothers of the disappeared for 1500 Thursday, that for thirty years, they found themselves to make a silent circle around the obelisk.
On either side of the square there are the stairs leading to the old city subway from the beginning of 900 and still working with a limited number of stations. Opposite the Cabildo museum stands the "Casa Rosada" (A-LP 90) the palace of the President of the Republic of Argentina, the name derives from the color of this building in colonial style.
Walking through the streets and the square I see a fair number of people sleeping on the street: Different countries, unfortunately, that are miserable.
Continuing the tour, we walk the streets with traffic flowing where I see an office INAS CISL (Italian patronage a) be able to stabilize and align their pension contributions with Italy is a very useful work, a really valuable service to our compatriots residing in this country.
In the Palermo district (A-LP 97) we can see beautiful parks frequented by people involved in sports, the zoo, botanical garden and a short distance we see the Italian Embassy. Then we stopped near a park where he placed a metal sculpture, the "General Floralis" (A-LP 96), a flower whose pistils are illuminated in the evening, the petals open and close following the course of the sun, like a real flower.
Arriving in the district Gomero, we stop at a bed where there is a majestic Ficus Macrofilas, a huge tree over 200 years of existence it is impossible not to be photographed in this giant. Once in the "Regoleta, visit the Iglesia Nuestra Senora del Pilon (pillar), built in colonial style in 1732, from the baroque style. Later we visit the monumental cemetery of rules, including multiple and massive graves, very few live plants, this place looks like a sad city of the dead, we can see the tomb of Evita Peron. Not far away, strikes me as a tomb with a statue of a girl-size and a plaque inscribed in Italian: the dedication of the dad, sculptor and poet, has created everything for her daughter.
We return to the bus but the vehicle has broken down and waiting to be repaired take the opportunity to make a tour of shops, money and change with the Argentine peso drink a cup of coffee, a good way to fight the sleep that is latent. The driver is able to repair it, so we take the tour and passing through the neighborhood Telmo and arrive at "La Boca" (A-LP 94), a quaint and colorful neighborhood on the banks of the Rio de la Plata. Originally, this was the place where that landed the Genoese arrived in Argentina, then became the residence of the workers that door painted vessels, advanced paint used to color plates designed to protect the wooden houses and over time this feature has become the chromaticity the neighborhood. We walk along the Caminito, a street where you can see colorful houses, rich in tourist attractions such as tango dancers, musicians, painters whose paintings sometimes appear very valuable. In stores that are both precious objects cheesy. I like to photograph and observe this cross-section of the immense metropolis.
It 'now time for lunch and head for the restaurant, as we go along the Rio de la Plata, known to have been placed on the embankment of the billboards with pictures and captions: These are reproductions of some works in the Louvre in Paris, a beautiful idea to play these works to disseminate knowledge.
We arrive in the area of old warehouses that English, renovated homes and public places have become, in red brick structures are pleasant to see. The lunch break to savor good food argentina: dumplings filled with meat "empanadas, grilled beef, frozen or canned fruit.

Part 2

Starting all along the Rio de la Plata river from this huge brown hazelnut carrying towards the sea the red earth collected on its path of 240 km at the mouth, with its 50 km wide, will be the size of a real sea own. The other side is seen in the distance is between Uruguay and the two nations there is a regular naval service. Sometimes the color of water due to pollution from brown to black and oily.
We arrived at the airport Jorge Newberg located near the coast river, where scrambled to Trelew, it's hot, and after nearly two days of travel sleep makes its appearance and to combat it, the bar and take a strong black coffee. During the flight, there are those who talk, those looking to relax, read the guide to learn about the places we visit in the coming days, I try to update the diary but it is impossible for the turbulence encountered.
All of them express the desire of a beautiful and refreshing shower, then we assume that the time to meet tomorrow, will still be warm or warmer?
While in flight deepen the knowledge of Patagonia, I find that Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (A-LP 493), author of "The Little Prince" was in Patagonia Argentina dell'Aeropostal director from 1929 to 1931. Part of the descriptions and pictures in his book derive from this particular area, the boa costrictor is similar to an island near the Peninsula Valdes, perfectly conical volcanoes are present in southern Patagonia, the mountains, all of the reported B612 nell'Asteroide beautiful book that reminds me of a dear person.
Looking out the window the thoughts they fade the appearance of Patagonia (LP A-476): a boundless land that extends as far as the eye and offers a fascinating spectacle, comes from the steppe dotted with bushes, with very few plants. It 's remarkable contrast with the green pampas surrounding Buenos Aires and only a few hours ago I was flying.
The airport has an essential structure of Trelew, we will take your bags and going out to meet our guide Andrea. We climb on the bus for us at 19.15 and start the journey to Puerto Madryn, along the way I enjoy the wilderness, a wild, desolate, a series of fenced pastures with care.
Andrea tells us something about the place and we are along the National Route No. 3 to the Pan-American Highway from Alaska that starts and ends after 17,848 km in Tierra del Fuego (place to visit then). Patagonia is a land mostly flat and is rich in natural wonders. Anyone can buy the estates and turning them into pasture. The only problem here is water, because the landowners digging wells in search of the precious liquid, but drilling is not without unexpected find as if drilling for oil or gold, it becomes state property, while if they find the precious stones, remain the owner.
Andrew, of Welsh origin, tells us that his ancestors in 1700 to escape religious persecution in order to preserve their culture and their traditions, have moved to Patagonia, once firmly insiedatisi have lived with the Aboriginal learning traditions, knowledge and traditions.
We arrived in Puerto Madryn (A-LP 483) that still is not clear, the sun sets here around 21 o'clock, at the hotel we quickly assign the rooms, I share a room with Chen, of Chinese origin but resident in Italy for decades. Shower and then go for dinner in a restaurant by the sea; timbale of vegetables and eggs, parrilla, fruit. Return to the hotel and the collapse of tiredness, sleeping in a good bed is really refreshing.

Part 2

Before the sound of the alarm are standing, the sun is already high and I enjoy the spectacle of the bay front hotel. Pack your clothes and equipment for photographic day waiting for me, breakfast at 8.00 and departure to the Valdes Peninsula: the expectation of seeing the whales is really great.
Leaving Puetro Madryn they cross the industrial zone on the outskirts where skirt aluminum smelters, warehouses of artisans dedicated to the machining of porphyry, the fishing industry buildings surrounded by plenty of seagulls, the birds are concentrated in the place where the waste is piled processing and the presence of so much food that attracts hundreds of birds has become a problem for altering the natural balance.
Travelling in the desert as I note the water is really a problem for livestock and farmers; Andrea explains that to overcome this difficulty in part, have recently been made for sewage treatment plants to ensure that the purified water can be used for 'watering gardens and fields.
We approach the wildlife reserve of Peninsula Valdes, and as we cross the narrow isthmus connecting the peninsula to the mainland we see the first guanaco, a nice family of mammalian cammelidi, which resembles the most famous Andean blade.
We're along for hours without a break the fences of the farms and Andrea tells us that in Patagonia farms have very large extensions, from 20,000 to 300,000 hectares of land. The area is divided into fenced plots to graze cattle and sheep without dispersing them. The herds are looked after by the gauchos, the legendary horsemen of the pampas and Patagonia, which, practically living on horseback, carrying out important work devoted to the animal production and care of the fences. In this area the sheep are raised in high-quality wool is exported to Asia and Europe. The lamb is the main food and to increase productivity animals are castrated, bloody operation for both animals and people that requires skill on the part of the gaucho. We see faster modes of castration used:
• gaucho bind to the testicles of animals a month until they fall off, but it is a very painful for the animals;
• cut the scrotum, but this will cause serious bleeding;
• with a very sharp blade, affecting the scrotum and the gaucho grabs the animal's testicles with his teeth snapping. The latter method seems to be the technique preferred by people who, however, at the end of the day, after having castrated and cut the tail to the lambs, collect all the cut and left on the fire. According to Andrew, this appears to be a tasty dish, personally am very skeptical.
We reach the entrance of the nature reserve of Peninsula Valdes (A-LP 490), a barrier blocking the entrance, adjacent to the main building houses the headquarters of the nature reserve and a small museum. Andrea falls, collect the tickets, then share it with destination Puetro Piramides verify where the sea conditions and the possibility of embarking to take me to see the Southern Right Whales that breed here. If this is not possible, the day's program will change and here it is nature that dictates the conditions, I feel duty-bound to note that we are simply human beings passing through this enchanting place.
Leaving from the isthmus, Andrea explains that there are two bays to the north and south of the Golfo San José, where we are, the Nuevo Gulf, and the two bays are toghether a feature: when there is a gulf in the high tide in 'There is another low tide and vice versa.
Note that in the Gulf San Jose there is low tide and the birds are resting on the shore, they are migratory birds from Canada are heading to Antarctica.
We reach the small village of Puerto Piramides (A-LP 490), a port whose modern development comes from the fishing of whales and seals to produce oil for the lamps, but the source is remote, it was found in an ancient village Indian burial ground.
We stop at an agency where Marine excursions for whale-watching, this morning the sea conditions allow the trip by boat and the boats were already off, so we have to wait for a fall: what better occasion to turn the village, and escort advertising sign, an Italian coffee drink? Walking through streets lined with multicolored wooden houses with a floor I look at the rebuilt church just as the old one was demolished by the wind. Seeing the boat returns to port we prepare for the trip: we wear the jacket, group photos and then we go on the boat moored on the beach. How? On the beach? Of course this is all original, and even when the boats reach the shore are encased in metal frames and transported with tractors on the shore where people go up and down on the shore by boat.
We sit on the boat is reported at sea, leaving the metal cage and starts navigating though the sea is calm enough, the jump is significant especially in the bow. By Louise Ambrogina and I sit down at the stern sitting comfortably contemplate the landscape. Distance you can see the first whales, whose tails rise into the sky before disappearing in the blue, we approach the area ... and then nothing for long minutes mammals seem to have disappeared, nothing moves above the sea surface the boat ... moves, the commander looks for other places to spot whales and the waves produced by the vibrating motion creates some problems and some passengers appear symptoms of seasickness.
Suddenly, as if by magic, the sea is populated by southern right whales: they appear on the surface to breathe, you see the breath, can be seen swimming on the water, turn around, play, flirt and then dive, see the tail get and then disappear is always a thrill. On the boat there are some who takes with the camera, I "armed" with machine photos are committed to point and shoot, the operation requires a good mix of luck and skill, I also calculate the displacement of the boat and the people who are too 'photographing them.
After two hours by boat returns to port, while those affected by seasickness, have transformed the stern in a real emergency.
Crossing the Gulf Nuevo quickly leave behind the whales that swim freely in the sea. Once near the shore the boat greatly increases the speed to almost want to go out to sea, what happens? We're going to get inside the metal cage attached to a tractor that will take us to the ground. Ladder and go down on dry land, take off the life jacket, who was hit by seasickness quickly improves. We get together and quickly reach the bus to leave for the south east of this wonderful natural area. Proceed along a dirt road that runs through the desert, when we realize that the dust raised by the wheels of the bus enters the ventilation system vents the passenger compartment making some really unlivable. During this passage we can observe guanacos and ostriches graze freely in the landscape appear as the salt level of which is 42 meters below sea level.

Part 2

Here the houses are far apart, so larger companies where there are no service facilities like a small village. Each house is made of wood even with all the modern comforts, not absolutely necessary to think about these places as desolate, inhospitable and savage: the people are friendly, living with a good standard of living and it is not hard to find descendants of Italians.
We arrive at "The Lighthouse" a place that takes its name from the artifact, there are some buildings including a restaurant, a bar and a craft shop, here we stop for lunch.
In the dining room, big enough to hold medium sized groups, we are served lunch, empanadas, ravioli stuffed with meat and ostrich eggs, grilled lamb with salad, creme caramel. The food is good, well-cooked meat does not have the classic gamey flavor that our lambs, it is true that the Argentines are experts in preparing and cooking meat on the grill.
While lunch between courses the gift shop is filled with people, I take this opportunity to note that the room well furnished with simple style, is organized and clean. On the walls are hung with little pictures that contain an orderly Neolithic flint artefacts, known arrowheads, knives, utensils.
After lunch, going outdoors, I enjoy the vast plain dotted with bushes and photographer of flowers and a map of where we are, then climbed back on the bus we set off for Point Lighthouse, where we observe the elephant seals. After a few miles, we stopped at a clearing, all in a group and being careful not to slip, go down a sandy ridge, arriving on the beach where, following the low tide, are resting dozens of elephant seals, there are adult males, females, and many small. After the beach, where the coast rises an elephant seal lies on the sand, is very far from the other, it seems dead, but Andrea us formal notice by the approach, the mammal is alive and is changing the skin to become dark gray. It 'an operation which will last from 12 to 20 days and during this time the animal remains motionless in the sun to allow the skin to dry and fall off. Elephant seals have a huge size, reach up to 7 meters in length and may exceed three tons of weight on earth are moving rather slowly in water but are agile. Go to "eat" in the depths of the ocean and arrive at a depth of 1,000 meters, where they feed on giant squid and other animals on the seabed.
At the end of the beach, the scenery is fantastic, and the emergence of the rocks at low tide leaves that are full of octopus, clams and oysters, a boon to local fishermen. Sitting on the beach we stopped to observe the scene as a whole, the blue of the sea, the green of the gray rocks, the brown sand with elephant seals. You can see the dominant males positioned away from the other members of the herd, that firm and immovable property, carefully checked that no one comes close. In the group of several males attempt to mate with females who regularly escape and is a continuous series. I enjoy to look at this spell and take pictures.
He approaches the hour of departure, along the sandy ridge and reached the top, before you leave, let's see another elephant populations in marine bay also stationed in the sun.
We return to Puerto Madryn; Vadesi cross the peninsula and reached the checkpoint we stop to visit the local museum where the rooms are set up single-issue: fauna, flora, geology, main towns, history, and the main hall is devoted to the queen of the place, The Southern Right Whale skeleton present with a more than 15 meters long. Are kept in a shrine of baleen, whale teeth, which were once used by the inhabitants as a raw material for the manufacture of tools for many common uses and some are very particular as umbrellas.
Leaving the museum are greeted by cloudy skies gray and threatening rain for blessing but a curse for farmers and ranchers penguins and birds, this is the nature and role play.
Back to the hotel, shower, then meet for dinner the night before as it is in a restaurant. C'incamminiamo on the seafront in the direction of the room .. and walk .. walk, ask for information: the direction is correct, and well after 3 km we reach the local antipasto of cold cuts and cheese, fried fish fillets and a tiramisu for dessert. To return the group splits up, those who choose and those inside the taxi on foot. I am in the second set and after a nice walk over half an hour we arrived at the hotel when I spent the 23, before going to bed to pack your luggage for departure the next day.

Part 1

At 5.00 the alarm sounds, breakfast and loaded the luggage on the bus we set off for Punta Tombo, where we should see the penguins, having the time many of us sleep toghether.
Leaving the city back to take the National Route No. 3 and heading south, after 2.30 hours of travel in the desert, we arrive at a detour through a dirt road where they access a private farm, we are in a holding of 65,000 hectares with more than 7,000 sheep, and the part of territory that borders the sea is home to the Punta Tombo Nature Reserve (A-LP 503), one of the nesting places of Magellanic penguins. The stretch of coast to the spawning and hatching of eggs is 15 km long and the penguins will push inland up to 2 km to build their nests, and the local population of birds is estimated at 500,000 animals. As we enter the park, I note with curiosity that guanaco and sheep mingle with the penguins.
The Magellanic penguins are one of the 17 existing species, they are oviparous, up to 45 cm tall, white and black. Like other species, present on the back of the scales that allow them to good sealing when in the water. To protect themselves from predators in this area, they build their nests by digging holes in the ground beneath the thorn bushes that grow in abundance. This strategy allows you to protect the eggs and young from gulls and other predators, with their presence, are a constant threat. Usually 2 eggs deposited the penguin that are treated in turn by the pair taking turns at hatching and then feeding the young.
Turning to the reserve have the good fortune to see some nests where hatching is not complete. I notice that many nests are lined with feathers or eggs because they are opening up are newborn or small, I'm lucky to see the birth of a small coming out of the egg. The newborn children are black / brown and are protected by the parent who lovingly takes care of them.
On the ground in the bushes instead of penguins that look fun and step awkwardly waddling walk directly to the beach where they jump into the sea for bathing, for the presence of food. As I walk between the nests the wind carries the smell of animals, making it look very nice, but this just falls a little, here comes a sharp nose and intense "fragrance" of fish.
By Andrew, who shows us many details about penguins, we take a trip to the beautiful nature reserve and being the first visitors of the day, we can safely enjoy and enjoy the show and the magic of the place. As we prepare to come from other groups of tourists that fill the area.
Let Nature Reserve resuming Rn n.3 heading towards where we take the plane to Trelew Uschuaia, but since we are on time and the program includes a visit to a Welsh village to ask Andrea to take us to visit him. Reluctant at first, but due to the insistence agrees to join us even if you do not know if we find a place for lunch. Then we head towards Gaiman (A-LP 501): village inhabited by Welsh moved here. Along the way, the barren landscape becomes green and lush, rich in plants with large fields, why this radical change? We are near a river water channeled and exploited wisely offers the opportunity to develop plantations of poplar, willow trees that with their high foliage create a useful and valuable barrier against the constant wind characteristic of Patagonia, and this produces a microclimate suitable for growing fruit, vegetables and vegetables. We can see plantations of strawberries, potatoes, alfalfa as well as plants with wild cherries, figs, peaches and nectarines, much of this fruit is reaching maturity and will find it in a few weeks at Christmas, our Italian tables.
Stopping at the farm of Don Julio, Andrea asks if you can make a break for a snack, but we can wait a little. Meanwhile, as the strong sun warms us, take the opportunity to walk through fields and orchards that surround the farm.
After a few minutes to reach the house where we are kindly greeted by the owner, an elderly lady who quickly drew up three tables in the living room, in dealing with improvised reception was really good, precise and orderly. Note that in an adjacent room, which is under renovation, there is a fireplace and a bar counter, the environment is clean and welcoming to the walls are hung with many family photos and sports trophies won by the owners when in his youth raced in competitive athletics.
We need: apple pie, chocolate cake and cream, pasta, bread with butter, lightly salted (a real treat for the palate), melon and strawberry jam, salami, hot bread, appetizer? No means no! A real hearty meal rich in sugars. It 's noon and we must leave the room and head to the airport. Here come the suitcases on board, pay the fee of the flight, the airport structure is small and crowded with passengers, and then look for a place to stay in the group to wait for the departure of the flight to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego. "
There comes a time of boarding, the plane is full and passing between the seats feel a dialect family, ask the Italians to discover where they are and who live in a neighboring country to mine the world is really small!
On board the MD 80 took off with 30 minutes late, but here the time seems to be a very different size and very different values compared to the frenzy of Milan. During the flight we talk about the dinner that is not in the program, Salvatore has an address of a local restaurant, but has found a place to call 10 people, so we decided to make two groups in two different restaurants.
During the flight I read the program guide and discovered that Tierra del Fuego is a very important area naturalistically.
Flying over the flat, arid expanse of the Patagonian gaze is lost in the ubiquitous shrubs and watching my fellow travelers, known as the heel elevator stamen of fatigue has led to us all. The sky is becoming cloudy and enjoy the quietness of the flight to accommodate the travel notes, my continuous record arouses curiosity among the travelers and coma ever someone asks me, I explain that I write travel diaries and I give them directions where to find them. They spent nearly three hours after landing, and we are getting ready to land, we are traveling in the sunshine, but below us the sky is overcast, the clouds appear to be passing lakes, snow-capped mountains with slopes covered with woods and just off the jagged sea many islands. The pilot warned us that the ground temperature is 9 ° C, the sky is increasingly cloudy and gray, the sea is dark and gloomy, the mountains are dark green, this is one of many images of Tierra del Fuego, a place on a day where you can meet the temperature of all four seasons. The contrast of the Argentine landscape is really strong in the north there is a green in the middle of Patagonia is bare, but here in the south is green and lush.
Appears Ushuaia (A-LP 594), the last town before Antarctica, the city lies on the coast es'inerpica on the sides of mountains, the houses are low and colorful, the edge of town is the industrial area. We land on the concrete runway, the plane go down in the rain: WelcomeAbout

Part 2

Disembark, collect your luggage and boarded the bus that will take us to the hotel, here are a pretty girl that awaits us, is our guide, of Italian origin named Karina Bonanno. We cross the city and soon we reach the hotel built on the mountainside, immersed in the woods, offering stunning views of the city, the bay and islands on the cover. Just above us there are the snow-capped mountains, Karina tells us that a few dozen meters away, there is the start of a chair lift to the glacier which descends from the mountain.
When we got off the bus we are greeted by a crisp and cold temperature, the temperature will be only the evening or is it just the local climate? Besides the snow close to the heat we must forget. Allocation of rooms and then get ready for dinner, Salvatore part with the first group, while we found soon after in the hotel lobby into the restaurant "Kaup" where we booked, which met three call taxi to accompany us, we come to town and soon we arrive at the restaurant. The initial idea was to take a stroll in the town before dinner, but since it sleets decide to go directly to dinner. We enter the room where the atmosphere is warm, cozy, elegant and refined. At reception we were told that this restaurant is among the most expensive city, some fear the spending we have, but we decide to sit at the tables. We carry the a la carte menu and scrolling we see the price expressed in dollars, we are seized with a stroke: the figures are exorbitant. We ask the exact price to the waiter and explained to us that even though the reported U.S. dollar, the number indicates the amount of Argentine pesos, being the fourth value of the dollar, everything is resized.
I choose the menu: crab natural, black cod, chocolate cake, there are those who accompanied the food with good wine from Argentina. The dishes are sophisticated, with an excellent presentation, the food is really tasty. During dinner, the windows of the room, we can still admire the bay lit by the sun as the sun starts at sunset and gaze is lost in the lights of the streets and in those of the port, ships at berth, in aircraft landing.
After dinner, the bill comes, 200 pesos per person (about 40 €), price really limited compared to Italy.
We call for a taxi back to the hotel, in the sky when the clouds let through the last rays of the sun is setting, making very impressive view of the bay, we'll see if it's a good sign for tomorrow where we wait for the excursion into a park.
I'm in the hotel room and I'm updating my Moleskine when it comes to opening up another group and that their was an evening fair, I'm not very happy with the dinner that the reputation is poor in quality, both as a service, the crab was served cold and the room was little more than adequate, you notice a bit of disappointment on their faces.
As I write the eye follows the charm of the city and the port where the illuminated in lights reflected in the sea.
The hall of the hotel is very popular and the Italians coming together to bring joy to play burraco invades the entire room.
Before going to bed, our thoughts go to clothing to prepare for the next day, but seeing the changing climatic conditions only when I wake up I decide I decide what to wear.

Part 1

The alarm clock rings at 7.30 but Chen is more than an hour we are looking at the bay and the movement of vessels, there is good light, the sky is gray and cloudy, but for now there is no rain, I decided to onion dressed with warm clothing and waterproof to keep those on hand. In the lobby there is the Judas of the day, his name is Luke and speaks good Italian. Breakfast, then pack their bags and embark in the afternoon in the meantime let in custody at the hotel and finally we depart by coach to visit the park's natural Lapataia (A-LP 605).
Leaving the city we drive along the road to the north and west a few km we reach the edge of the park. Entry fee and then continue the journey to a clearing where there is a colonial building, is the railway station of the "Train at the End of the World" (A-LP 608). Originally this train left the town and along the valley stopped in the woods, carrying the prisoners from the local prison that served as lumberjacks, the slopes of the mountains can still see the trees cut down and abandoned. At the station tell us that both trains are full, so rather than wait a long time and find the park full of tourists, we decide to continue their journey by bus and anticipate those traveling with the train.
Entering the park we go along the last remaining pristine peatland and traveling on the roadway that winds through forests of beech, we come to Lake Roca. Here we go down and start a trip on the lake shore, we walked across plants, flowers and animals. Beech stands out among the local plants, huge stretches of these beautiful plants, similfaggio called Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio), or a southern beech curiously named by locals "not authentic". Among the flowering shrubs Cafante the stands, a native plant whose fruits are derived from jams and liqueurs, as we walk we can see rabbits, hares and ducks. A curiosity: Rabbits and hares are truly undisturbed as well as being protected animals in the park, there are not as delicious dishes in Italy, we are the world's largest consumer of the meat. The Argentines did not appreciate these animals, "with little meat and lots of bones."
We arrived near a campsite where, despite the harsh climate, there is some campers. Nell'aera there is a refuge, and we enter a large room where we can find a fireplace to heat warm up the crackling fire. When I go out to take pictures, it starts to rain, however the gray sky certainly did not promise the sun. This is also a characteristic of Tierra del Fuego, but the cool climate and natural scenery that I have before me amply repay a bit 'of rain.
Let's continue our journey through the woods and just similfaggio stops raining, we stop to walk along a path, growing at the base of snowcapped mountains winds through woods, hills and lakes. We see rabbits, geese and ducks, while in some river canoeing paddling gently.
We arrive at a vantage point where, in the lake below, we can see a dam built by beavers, animals imported in the last century, now have become a scourge and we hunted. Souvenir photos, then asks Luke if we still continue on foot, the answer is yes. Walking through the woods along a bog, we climb up the side of a mountain where we see a colorful flora until we reach a lookout, the view on the bay is truly beautiful, the colors and shadows create a backdrop of unparalleled beauty. Leaving the viewpoint we go down to the bay and find a dirt road with a small roundabout is the end of National Route No. 3 "Panamericana," the path that we used when we were in Trelew, a sign indicates that we are 3,079 kilometers from Buenos Aires and 17,848 km from Alaska.
C'incamminiamo nell'aera protected where not to damage the delicate ground was laid for the gangways, and this allows access to places otherwise inaccessible to the characteristic of the peat bog. We see a catamaran of the local shipping line that enters the bay, across the moors to the pier and unloading passengers, a fabulous view, they are immersed in a different dimension from the consumer world, an enchanted place where nature and pleasant to determine times and the events that follow one another and I do not feel like a visitor but as a privileged guest can enjoy this magnificence.
On the way back to town to ask Luca where he learned Italian so well, Luke, born and raised in Buenos Aires by choice moved here to live with the pristine nature of these places, he likes to run excursions, spend the night camping trips with skis in winter and in 2002 he attended the University of Perugia, and has toured Italy and Switzerland.
It tells a fascinating and exciting history and features of the park, and just before arriving in the city shows us some photos of the animals that live here the map of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan. Advertise books, printed in English and Italian, flora and fauna, written by a friend. Some of us taking advantage of the opportunity to buy them, very good choice, because only then we will find prints in other languages.
For lunch, back to the hotel from the dining room where we can enjoy the magnificent view over the bay and islands that surround it, all illuminated by the sun. Here comes the lunch: meatballs with crab salad, cordero (lamb baked roll) with vegetables, accompanied by a sbrisolona chocolate banana and coconut ice cream, a fine meal and tasty.
The room is very hot, we lower the heat, but open windows, I wonder why such behavior. Luke tells us that because in the region there are deposits of methane, hence the low costs of heating has to regulate the temperature and the custom is to keep the window open.
During lunch we talk and observe the scenery. Returning to town, let the check-in for boarding the ship, collect their luggage and passport that will resume only on landing in Chile Walking through the town we are dedicated to shopping, there are those who buy books, some clothes, some Souvenirs and callers at home. I watch some clothing, which are finished well known and well cared for, and the prices are affordable.
As we turn to town, we find the tourist office, I'll affix the stamps Uschuaia moleskine, the southernmost city in the world.

Part 2

The temperature is pleasant and the sun shines in the blue sky, with Chen, Salvatore and Louise decide to go and visit the local museum built in the old jail. We cross the city and quickly arrive at the destination, the prison building, 5-spoke, now houses the museum of the prison and the naval museum, or rather the ship was built within the prison and the two museums complement each with each other. Paid for the ticket and start visiting the rooms are those of the first naval museum in which we can see models of ships passing through this stretch of sea that made local history, then accessing a range former prison and going through it we see that in cells placed on our left was rebuilt the prison environment, where we can observe some of the dummies representing detainees and a brief description of their history, there are murderers, thieves, in short, the worst crime of the period had been "conveyed" in this prison extreme. The prisoners were employed in the construction of the building, cutting of wood for heating and for services common to both the prison and the city. Escape this place was almost impossible for the cold and hostile. The few leaks that occurred have proved futile as the fugitives have always been found dead with cold.
In the cells of the right side of the building are visible equipment, personalities, uniforms, nautical maps of the marine museum. Once the beam, we arrive at the central rotunda, we see that the radius n. 3 is presented in its original condition, the walls are gray, the cells were closed by doors with metal grilles and wooden doors and then by the middle of the hallway there are two Spartan stoves that were used for heating. It includes the penalty that reigned in this structure built at the end of the world. Down the hall there are toilets, sinks, showers and lattrine, all very basic and made of cement products.
After visiting the museum, we return to the city and waiting for boarding curious look in the windows of stores where the products "Made in Italy" synonymous with the quality that exists and is recognized. I note hiking boots, I look in your feet, socks the same brand: Italian pride is apparent.
Meeting other members of the group decide to embark, we go ec'incamminiamo customs controls on the pier where the ship docked with which to cruise arrived aboard the "Mare Australis" we are welcomed by the crew. The ship is not great, the cabins are comfortable, the common rooms are spacious and comfortable. Chen and I, we have the car to the first bridge, which is just above the waterline and this will allow us to photograph from inside the cab because the glass door is constantly wet from the splashing of the waves, we get to photograph the bridges higher, but this does not prove a problem. We visit the ship, climbed on the upper deck take some pictures of the bay before setting sail, then down at the bar attended the meeting on safety and rules of behavior: on this occasion we meet the master, officers and staff who will follow us sightseeing, then the toast of welcome.
The officers explain the route that runs the list, the timing of trips and clothes to wear. The cruise is called a "cruise" Hiking the fact that the program, in case of adverse weather conditions could change significantly and no walks always require great care and clothing. While browsing are provided lectures on various topics such as fauna, flora, geography, glaciology, history (Magellan, Cape Horn, Antarctica and Chile).
The ship's engines are turned on, a slight roll and the boat moves slowly moving away from the dock, we set sail and begin the cruise, our adventure in the southern part of the globe. In the harbor, the boat, turning on itself stands straight up the Beagle channel and start surfing, the sun illuminating the snow-capped peaks seem to give us a greeting of good trip. As the ship slowly and silently gliding over the water along the coast and the mountains, in the room on the fourth bridge held the first conference on "History of Cape Horn, Cape de Horrnos called in Spanish and in the lounge bar is projecting filmed on location that morning, weather permitting, we will achieve.
The hour of dinner, crab meat, pea soup with salmon, then a choice between fish and beef fillet with a trio of different sauces. Enjoy the Chilean wine, deep red color, flavor barricades, special flavor and very different Italian wines.
Navigation proceeds in the Beagle channel, but before entering the open sea it shall stop, board rooms Chilean marine police for control of documents, in the dark of night you see the bay with the lights of Ushuaia.
After dinner we have gathered at the bar where they played cards and chatting, then go to the cabin for the night and fall asleep lulled by the pitching of the ship.

Part 1

night, the ship jumps, waves slam loudly against the hull plates, sometimes shatter the glass door, it wobbles.
At 5.00 my alarm sounds, I'd bet the night before because we were advised that at that time we passed through a lovely place, worthy of being photographed, I get up, look out the window and all I see is fog and waves, the visibility is bad, I do not even pose the question of how to dress to go out to photograph: Back under the covers. The program is a wake up call at 6.00 and 7.00 at the meeting to land at Cape Horn. 6.00 Punctual the alarm rings, hot coffee on the deck is ready for anyone who wants it, but seeing the tossing of the ship, I decide not to take anything liquid in order to avoid problems of seasickness. At 7.00 we find ourselves for the possible landing on the southernmost of the planet earth. To sit on hard chairs in the bar, we are fully harnessed and put on the jackets well-connected, move awkwardly, seem penguins fluorescent.
The crew that will accompany us gives us the information to board the boats, how to sit, how to get off, then gradually bringing us to the stern of the ship, we begin to embark on the boats that will take us to the ground. The outside temperature is 2.5 ° C, there is a strong wind, the sky is cloudy and gray. From the boat crew is already known that someone in the bay to secure the place to disembark.
The Zodiacs, go up one at a time, you sit down and then up another person, in total more than 10 passengers we note the details to navigation. We detach from the ship and head towards the rocky shore. The sea is as dark as the sky, the beautiful white waves create ripples in the dark, you miss the boat, while a few waves washes it back, something begins to fall from the sky: water, snow and welcome us to Cape Horn ( LP C-460 C).
Moorings and landed without any problems we have to perform exactly as the ship's personnel gives a safe and rapid movement avoids being swallowed by the waves and take a bath in the icy waters off the program.
On disembarking we can expect a long wooden staircase that travel will allow us to reach the top of the black reef starts climbing the wooden steps are made slippery by water and snow, must walk with caution, but soon we reach the top the stacks where there is the station of the trolley rope down to the sea; essential tool for the transportation of goods and food for those staying in this location. Here awaits a Chilean navy military, which controls access to the Chilean land, located just off the lighthouse and a military base with a helicopter landing pad in the firm.
We are on the island of Cape Horn, the southernmost land in the world, here the ground is covered only by short grass green and brown, the wind is a constant presence. For tourists and for those staying in this place was built a wooden bridge, a way to preserve nature, but also to make it easier to walk, with difficulty and struggling against the sharp wind and persistent rain and cold, the walk entirely until we reach the monument of Cape Horn, a metal structure placed in 1991, representing an albatross in flight. Hampered by high winds, I barely remember the picture, it is cold and still raining. We stay on top of a few minutes and then we head to another hill where stands a house with a lighthouse. All around the sea was covered by gray clouds and the water continues to be rippled by the wind. Looking at this scenario, I understand the difficulties faced by the sailors who sail in these waters and I understand why it is so worrying.
Before long we come to the lighthouse and find a surprise: a small wooden church: it is the southern most religious building in the world, in a photo of Pope John Paul II, a portrait of Saint Rita of Cascia, a Xaverian priest (which I do not know). Access the lighthouse and climb to the top I would like to take pictures, but the windows are all wet and then you can not get good shots. In the house there is a small gift shop, and I do I affix the stamps of Cape Horn on the moleskine and then signed the guestbook at the lighthouse, a tangible sign of my passage.
High tide is about to end and we must quickly move towards the canoes, running down the wet stairs, I see that a niche carved into the rock there are flowers and a statue of Our Lady of Mount Caramel, the patron of Rovello Porro, my little country, here a photo is essential.
We embark on the boat, taking care to make good the wave of the sea, to avoid falling into the cold waters, cross the bay and reach the ship, the boats dock at the stern, where we can land, take off my jacket and get ready to go breakfast: after an excursion to Cape Horn is so much hunger.
Terms of persons on board and hoisted the boats, navigation continues and the high waves of the open sea are quick to hear. During the day at sea until mid-afternoon when ashore for another hike. I take this opportunity to do laundry, to accommodate notes and photos, then listen to the explanation in the appointment cultural and anthropological history of Tierra del Fuego and Antarctica.
These are the 11 and the navigation proceeds near the islands to avoid the rough seas, we are heading north northwest at a speed of 10.9 knots, the sky is still gray, rainy, windy and the sea keeps the dark and gloomy. Only in the distance you can see clear, I hope that the sun appears in the next few hours when ashore, we headed towards the island of Navarino (LP C-456) south of Ushuaia.
At 12, began the conference on Patagonia and its glaciers, flora, fauna, although Mauritius (a crew member) setting out the presentation in Spanish reveals interesting and exciting.
Comes the lunch hour: Italian cuisine! Really good and eat plenty. The sky stays gray, but allows, in the distance, admire some of the islands with snow-capped mountains.
The first hours of the morning spent in quiet while in the common rooms there are those who read, who dozes, who plays cards, I read the guide chapter on Tierra del Fuego, Argentina is the part that the Chilean.
At 16.30 we prepare for the landing on the island of Navarino, at 17.00 the meeting for information on how to behave. The crew we have two possibilities:
• a quiet walk on the beach;
• a hike in the woods to a lookout point.
Divided into two groups began landing on board the boats.

Part 2

Landing on the island and take away the life preserver for deposit on the beach are the only human on the island. Now we are further subdivided into groups according to the language spoken, there are three groups, Spanish, Italian and English / French. With us there is Victor, a friendly-looking man about 55 who speaks fluent Italian. We start the tour and the first stop after only a few steps next to a building, Victor explains that the building was originally a Chilean Navy base and is currently a museum dedicated to Darwin, the British scientist who has lived for some time and studied in these places. We went for a stretch of road later, another stop where Victor tells us about the history of Tierra del Fuego. This island, like its neighbors, were inhabited by Aboriginal Jaman. These natives are visible in some photos and descriptions in the local museum, they lived in huts made of tree branches, were nomadic and migrating from one island to another. The clothing did not exist and used to the cold seal fat, women, being more fat than men, was given the task to use the canoes and dive into the cold waters, while the men were dedicated to hunting and fishing . It was a simple company whose culture was passed down only orally, since they were illiterate. Their religion was based on local traditions and idols of which, over time they are untraceable. In winter, these people were standing on the larger islands, while in summer they moved to smaller islands. A curious fact is the origin of the name "land of fire" the first European sailors who came saw the fires of the villages and huts are always lit and also on the canoe, as the aborigines used to transport the fire lit, hence the name we all know.
Now we can see the reconstruction of a hut made from branches of Beech Lenga. Over the centuries, these aborigines as indeed all local populations have had to sell their land to European settlers who were settled in these territories to cultivate land or raise cattle.
As has often happened in history, the impact of indigenous peoples by the colonists proved dramatic for the premises as a result of disease, violence, abuse have been decimated and the last direct descendant of this breed died about 60 years ago.
Currently the island is an ecological park, completely uninhabited, where the only animals that live in the wild are imported by man particularly pigs and beavers.
Starting the hike Vittorio shows a mushroom that grows on the trunks of beech trees, was once one of the main forms of livelihoods. As an ex-dividend and the taste, the taste is neutral, in fact have very little nutritional value and served only to fill the stomach.
We walk along a path that climbs up the slopes of the mountain completely covered with beech and continuing observation botany we can observe a kind of mistletoe that grows as a parasite on the branches, this plant grows and develops only where the air is really clean.
The climb is relatively easy, except for some stretches of very muddy ground, where you need to pay close attention to avoid slipping. Suddenly we notice that the group ahead of us is strong and has been photographing, and we quickly reach the edge of a dam built by beavers. We pass the group is returning to the boat and we stopped to take pictures of the lake that is illuminated by the sun that is appearing in the clouds when a beaver check trunks swimming quietly up to a few meters from us, you photograph and then decide to head to his lair.
Around the lake there are trees gnawed by rodents and powerful teeth of those killed are really many.
We continue the climb and soon we reach a clearing where he is a lovely view over the bay below. The sun makes the emotional landscape, the view prey in the colors of plants, sea, mountains and clouds. It 's a great satisfaction to have made this excursion, I can see further than in these places in one day you the climate of four seasons.
We return to the beach, with Salvatore Ambrogina and close the group, when we come to the lake of the beavers, the rodent makes its appearance as to greet us: beautiful gift of this wonderful land.
The descent goes fast on the same route of the climb, we are going through a forest when suddenly, behind us, from the depths of the forest heard a strange noise and Savior I look at him and exclaim at the same time: a grunt? Then it comes another: they are the wild pigs that inhabit the forest. With peace we continue on our way without cure us of what can be close.
Arriving on the beach, we realize that we are the past and there is little time to visit the museum for information on Darwin, and you will quickly. Inside hang the posters with pictures and descriptions, a historical, cultural, anthropological really interesting, but unfortunately I do not have time to analyze the content.
We set off to retrieve the buoy that we left on the beach when the sea I see a table, the crew has to drink, water, coca cola, chocolate and whiskey. I drink a little 'coke to drink and then return quickly with the boat on the ship, where we are greeted by a "cleaning" of shoes, a fast jet off the mud that covers the shoe.
Return to the cabin, checking the photos taken, then shower and get ready for dinner: salmon fillets, cream of potato soup with clams, cut of meat with potatoes, sweet. During dinner, the ship's personnel deploy for each table, a sheet with questions: a little contest with surprise prizes.
While we dine you surf between channels and the sea is calm, then entering the Beagle Channel we find the rough sea. From the porthole of the dining room watch the beautiful sunset that illuminates the snowy mountains, I rush into the cabin to take a camera and make some shots.
The evening is brightened up with a fashion show whose models are wearing clothes of the passengers on-board shop, among wearers are Chen and Louise. The evening continues with bingo where one false victories (who misunderstand the numbers) and real victories, is fun. Back in the cabin I am going to bed realizing that the ship is stopped.

In the morning the dim light of the cloudy sky through the window, the boat is plowing through the calm waters of the channel is now truly a pleasure to navigate. At 8.00 the announcement that breakfast is ready. To maintain the line, given the short movement, eat little, only fruits and biscuits to avoid seasickness.
During the morning, the route proceeds among various channels, all around snow-capped mountains, islands, islets, located along the coast are many signals that facilitate marine navigation.
Looking at the landscape on the islands known as the grass and plants grow crooked because of the incessant action of the wind are 9.30 and the journey proceeds peacefully today on the ship and spend the day in the afternoon the excursion is scheduled for see the Piloto and Nena glaciers ending their journey by throwing himself into the sea.
At 10.00 will start the historical explanation of the Strait of Magellan, follows the description in Spanish out of the window when something caught my eye: there is the albatross that follow the ship.
Abandoning the lecture and go out on deck to take pictures: it is wonderful to see these majestic birds with a wingspan of more than 3 meters to be carried away by the wind and float into the air. But I'm no anorak and bitter cold you feel. Return to room to follow the lesson that I have lost forever the thread, then I ask myself to observe the beautiful landscape on the slopes of the mountains known work millennial glacial erosion and the hills are sweet, grassy and where weather conditions are less violent, grow the plants.
11.00 hours lecture nodes, the boatswain teaches us at least try to teach a few knots you can use whenever we need it is very fun hour where these take delight in the realization of various kinking.
While browsing continues between islands and fjords to 12.00 while the lesson begins on Chilean wines, wearing the jacket I go on deck to try to photograph the Petrelli (an Antarctic bird) that flies continuously changing direction, point and shoot is a good test of speed and precision, but in the end I, with a little luck to capture in flight.
After the lunch buffet, we find ourselves in the common room to await the hour of landing. Are 15.20 when we come near a fjord here I see the small floating iceberg, the ship slows down, the crew drops anchor and start the trip to the glaciers.
To make ends three groups organized by nationality, we Italians ashore for the last at 17.30. Given the amount of time I decide to climb on the third deck in the bow seat to observe the first group arrives, when it starts to rain heavily. The group on board the boats entering the fjord disappears from my sight to reappear after almost an hour, shortly after entering the second group, hoping that the rain stops I keep looking out the window but the hope is vain.
They approach the 17 and soon it's up to us, it's time to prepare for landing at 17.10 and we all gathered on the bridge where Victor gives us the information needed for the trip and finally we are about to embark on the rafts. We are 8 people on the vessel over the guide and driver. We leave the ship quickly and we approach the fjord where the small icebergs floating on the water, sail between them and as we enter the narrow channel lined with vertical granite walls, the icebergs become ever larger, the skill of the pilot in avoiding is remarkable.
After about 15 minutes by boat, approaching a cliff, a myriad of cormorant nests, we stop to observe them, and then continue past a rock wall suddenly appears the mountain of ice, a true, vertical, impressive wall of blue ice and green that flows into the sea, the front is 30 meters high and wide over 100: I remain enchanted in the face of such a spectacle.
The incessant rain we get wet and relentlessly photograph it is very difficult, in fact, is a continuing struggle to wipe the lens from the drops that are breaking the glass, the more difficult it is to change the objective without wetting the delicate optics.
Cristobal, the tour leader, explains some of the characteristics of the glaciers that we face, the impressive Glacier Piloto and Nena glaciers farther and small. Every now and then detach from the Piloto glacier ice blocks that end up in water with a thud and gloomy, even this is part of the beauty and enchantment of the place.
Photographer glaciers, the landscape, the other boats that sail with us, I try to pick the colors blue and green and some details of the glacier, and despite the rain increases, the charm of this place is more than the bitter cold.
Leaving the fjord rapid return, disembark from the boat and climbed back onto the ship just ahead of us hot chocolate, wine and whiskey as broule welcome aboard.
Arrival in the room that are dripping wet, take off my clothes, put them to dry quickly and clean the camera. Chen takes a shower while I was lying on the bed are intent to see the photos immediately, when the loudspeaker announces the imminent arrival of the glacier Plüschow Gunther.
I look out the window and see the ice a few hundred meters, quickly wearing the first dress I have on hand, I take my camera and I rush to the upper deck to take pictures. Return to the cabin, shower and then dinner: appetizer of crab, pumpkin soup with potatoes and cheese, beef fillet, dessert and coffee.
In the evening we find ourselves on deck for the final farewell of the captain, then play cards and chat while browsing goes quiet in the fjords, along the snow-capped mountains and glaciers that are thrown into the sea. Finally, recatomi cabin to pack their bags for landing the next day.

Part 1

The alarm clock is pointing to 6.00 but long before Chen is already up, seeing the dawn could not resist photographing. I stay in bed until the alarm goes off and get ready for the last exit on the inflatables. The meeting is scheduled for 6.55 in the fourth bridge, the destination is the island Magdalena (LP C-414) where a protected natural park inhabited by about 60,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins.
In the cloudy sky you can see some stretches of cloudy but not raining, we observe that landed on the island is densely populated by penguins, the soil is completely bare, there is no bush and penguins build their nests by digging into the dry ground and beaten by wind. One thing I am curious, in addition to penguins, there are lots of seagulls walk quietly and peacefully among the nests of the penguins, but not their eternal enemies that feed on their eggs?
Watching the penguins are hatching well known that in contrast to Punta Tombo, here the eggs are not hatched yet. Animals that appear dirty and hatch when the change occurs in the pair for hatching, the bird goes to the sea, where the first wash and then flows into the water in search of food. Vittorio known to a few tens of meters from the shore of strange movements in the water, and he notes that there are sea lions to hunt penguins, looking good I can see the sea lions' heads emerge from time to time to breathe.
We make a trip to the lighthouse that stands on the island's highest point, then back to the ship where we change ourselves before breakfast, then we finish the preparation of cases seen in a few hours to descend to earth in Chile. We are in the Strait of Magellan and we are coming to Punta Arenas (LP C-410). Suddenly, unexpectedly, the ship is flanked by dolphins that seem to welcome us.
The landing is between red tape, the withdrawal of passports, checks on luggage and then in small groups leaving the ship. We Italians are on the foredeck and we can see the people who landed softly in the meantime I can see the many colors of the houses in Punta Arenas, white, yellow, green, pink, blue, brown shades which give a touch of beauty to the picturesque bay. The houses are built on the hill that descends gently toward the sea. In some stretches of cloudy sky appears blue. Finally our turn to get off, we discover that we are the last group, we climb on a bus that takes us to the immigration place where we find our luggage and then the controls. Customs officers are very careful in checking that no one plant or sausages, open all the suitcases, backpacks and baby carriers. Passed the inspection, going out, we find the van that will take us to the Park Torres del Paine, the bags are loaded onto a trolley and we take place in the middle. Jerde know our Chilean guide and warns us that we need to get to the park and walk about 420 km Estimated travel time is 6 hours. Let's go and make a stop to admire the square of Punta Arenas at its center is the statue of Magellan, in the square there is a market of local art, excellent opportunity to acuisti of lapis lazuli and manufactures alpaca wool, then a stop to see the city from above, here the show is unique, you can clearly see the low houses built to withstand the fury of the wind and the bay lit by the sun. Known as the city has recently built, resulting from oil development, processing of marine products and metals. I also think the beauty and wild landscape that was presented to the first explorers.
Finally we take the road to Puerto Natales, the road is cemented and is a continual jolting of the joints due to contact of the various cast but after a while you get used to, the landscape is steppe, the vast plains are dotted with farms cattle: see cattle, sheep, ostriches and the ubiquitous guanaco. In the blue sky in the distance the towering mountains of the Park Towers of the Plan, our arrival point.
As we approach the mountains the landscape changes, we can see the hills covered with trees, the contrast with the desert is really cool. After about 3 hours drive we stopped for lunch, are 16, some people in the room eating a sandwich, another a flat, ordered a sandwich stuffed with a cheese steak and a beer, the cost is $ 12.
We continue the journey and find a sign indicating 127 km to the park, continue on the road to Puerto Natales (C-LP 429), stop here. The driver off the trailer, carrying the luggage on the bus as we make some pictures of a huge lake, the guide informs us that is not a lake but a marine fjord. The site was discovered by surfers who sought a different path over the Strait of Magellan and along the whole fjord came to this locality, as I imagine they were adventurous sailing trips on board a few centuries ago when the area was unknown and there were no topographic maps and nautical.
We continue our journey on this desolate land, the landscape is always green and flat. For a detour, the driver take a dirt road, we are approaching the Molodon Park, a prehistoric animal resembling a bear, a plantigrade lived in the Quaternary whose bones were found in a cave we will visit. From this park has a stunning view of the mountains of Patagonia and Chile. In this place, ended the journey of Bruce Chatwin, British writer known for his work on Patagonia.
After visiting the park continue our journey to the Torres del Paine. The landscape does not change for many miles, fenced land, pasture for sheep, cows and horses on the slopes of the hills you see some plants and in the distance the snow-capped mountains stand out in a beautiful blue sky dotted with white clouds and the sun is hot and windy climate.
Suddenly in the distance I see the unmistakable silhouette of the Torres del Paine: our goal is fast approaching. Along the road known fields fenced with barbed wire is hard to overcome with obvious signs bearing the words "Mines" and we are near the border of Argentina and that these minefields along the way are the result of political tensions between the two states.
We come to a border town where, by making a detour, we take a dirt road and the journey continues through breathtaking scenery. The group of towers is moving ever closer to a vantage point, we pause to make beautiful photographs, then continue to the border of the park where there is a checkpoint of the rangers. There we leave our suitcases on the bus and transhipped vans also go up, we now continue on board such craft do not understand why, but made a few hundred meters away there came the answer: we have to cross a metal bridge built in 1914 which Transit is permitted only for cars of limited size, the buses pass by a narrow margin and the driver proceeds with extreme caution to avoid damaging the side of vehicles. We continue to 7 km on a dirt road and finally arrive at the Hotel Les passed a campsite Torres, a wooden structure very low, and pretty well in the context of its surroundings.

Part 2

Place your bags in the rooms go to dinner when they are already past 21, while eating, I note that on the lawn in front of the dining room there are horses are beautiful animals and a pleasure to admire them while quietly graze in this picturesque landscape.
After dinner I will arrange the notes of the day, but before we do go out to watch the sky is black and studded with bright stars, observe the constellations by looking, but it's hard to identify the Southern Cross Return to the hotel while sipping a beer fresh look at the weather forecast, tomorrow rain damage, but all in all is good: they are the Towers of Paine, a dream of mine. Sitting in the wooden structure, systems, the travel notes by listening to the music of a local radio station. The atmosphere of the place is magic, will be the beams, or the glass covering the bar that lets you observe the sky. I am almost 24 and I decide to go to sleep, tomorrow's departure is due to start at 9.00 and I hope that the weather forecast is wrong.

I wake up before 8, Chen, my roommate is around the park taking pictures, I get dressed and go to breakfast. Then, the group met, we start with the vans to the valley through the narrow metal bridge when we unload and start taking our bus tour of the Paine Park, the first stop is the best point of view of the towers, here we see a small waterfall whose natural environment is very nice, getting back on track and stop to admire the guanaco, sometimes we see a solitary animal, Jerde explains that it is the male that his position on the land, caring for the females and their young. Then we stop to look at a lake with ducks and flamingos, we continue towards the "Horns of Paine" rugged mountains that shoot up towards the sky, another stop at the Salto Grande (C-LP 436), a cascade of 50 meters. At this point, the wind channeled between the mountains took on a frightening, you can not stand: those who want to photograph is forced to lie on the ground.
And shortly afterwards we continue to view the imposing horns of the floor where the wind is less violent and I can do some wonderful photos. Shortly after we arrive at Pehoe Lake, a reservoir from blue / green. Stop for lunch, the sky is overcast and rain promises, promise kept. Given that any hike in the neighborhood is impossible, in a shop buying freeze dried fruit and water, a nutritious light meal.
Jerde, he leaves his car photos, curiously wondering what to photograph, "orchids," he says, I remain skeptical for the answer, but I'll have time to figure out who is telling the truth.
The temperature is cool and the fact that the parking provided is 60 minutes, I get on the bus, I update my diary, look at the photos and the map of the park and hypothesize how to make the presentation of the trip. Shortly after the medium becomes full, we start earlier than expected with half the Lago Grey where you arrive after 45 minutes of travel while it is raining heavily.
Jerde we announced that we will see the icebergs floating in the water, I think a vision similar to the Perito Moreno will see that in the coming days. Arriving at the stand and watching the rain I think it's very useful to cover well because we can expect a hike of more than 1 hour. Left the stand the first difficulty we face is a suspension bridge over a river, we walked through it in no more than 6 people at once to avoid bouncing too much and in fact proceed on the bridge where each step creates oscillations is exciting. Then through a wood coming in view of the lake where a surprise awaits us: the huge iceberg floating on water. Leaving the wooded area in short we are at a shingle beach, fruit glacial erosion. Visibility is reduced because of the clouds, a few pictures and following the road toward the bus I have the opportunity to photograph the orchids of Patagonia.
During the trip can be seen that the Andean Patagonian forests are destroyed by fire, Jerne explains that part of the forest had been burned to create pasture, but in recent decades, after the birth of the Park more fires have been produced by campers, even for this camp is now outlawed. The last two fires have created massive destruction, a first burned 5,000 hectares of woodland and a second well 15:00 hectares. Here the vegetation grows slowly and, despite being past few years, are still evident in the charred plant seeds that stand out on glossy white and green pastures.
Returning to the hotel in torrential rain with us almost until the change of buses to cross the bridge when going down, suddenly a condor comes out of nowhere and started circling above our heads, its silent and majestic presence is fleeting and only lucky ones are able to capture in photography.
Traveled the dirt road, we arrive at the hotel and saw that it had stopped raining by Chen decided to walk on the green pastures of the park, photograph birds, horses and flowers back to the hotel shower, account balances, dinner and then spend the evening among many activities by studying the model of the park, play cards, while the more adventurous take a walk outside. Sitting front of a fireplace where crackling wood burns, the system notes the day just passed and look through the windows of the front pasture and the last hikers fall into the camp site nearby.
They spent the 22.00 and the sky clear yet seen only a few white clouds that seem painted.
Tomorrow we expect the transfer to Argentina, but the desire to remain here under the imposing tower is really great, go out to look at the spectacular mountains that rise up in the sky, admire the tower Monzino with its 2600 meters, the central tower with its 2800 meters, the tower with its D'Agostini 2850 m and slightly more distant Mount Almirante Nieto, who stands at an altitude of 2640 meters.
The landscape is characterized by lush green hills and deep river that encircle the park and the lakes behind these towers granite hills that rise upward. Using geological terms, we can say that with the recent "only" 12 million years, based on a mix of sediment and the work of wind, water and ice have shaped the way over the millennia and it is really a delight to observe them so closely.

The alarm clock goes off just before 7.00 and looking in the meadows adjacent to the room I can see horses grazing quietly, birds flying light and wild rabbits hopping on the green grass. Today we expect a long journey on unpaved roads to transfer and given the good weather will observe the landscape with a clear blue sky while the wind blows constantly. It 'nice to see these aspects of nature and silence reigns supreme.
On the green pasture to take the final steps before departure, I pause to savor the smell of wood burning in a boiler for hot water, the aroma fills the lungs and reminds me that on his return to Italy the fire house will be function. The good smell of wood smoke and fresh air remind me of some wonderful days spent in the Alps between peace and serenity.
Pack your bags, breakfast and then, as I watch the gauchos on horseback accompany the herds to pasture, we are about to start, check your bags and load them on the bus leaving for the valley, always putting his eyes on the majestic peaks that shoot up towards the blue sky.
We arrived in the valley when we get off on grounds of weight from the van on foot to cross the old bridge where the English sign warning that the maximum capacity is 14 tons, on the bus go up and cross just after a recent bridge where the sign indicates not to exceed 10 tonnes, some doubt arises as to the accuracy of the notices me.
Taken the bus we head towards the border with Argentina along the endless expanses of fenced pastures, where horses and sheep graze in trip we see the solitary gauchos on horseback control fences.
While the jagged blue sky with white clouds brighten up the journey we reach the border, where we make a stop. Here we are greeted by the cold wind and incessant, and this is an opportunity to take refuge in a small bazaar where I can find any goods, the place is crowded and is heated by a wood stove, there are those who take a coffee and rummaged among books (some really interesting), Aboriginal masks, textiles and other manufactured goods, but given the expensive prices you decide to defer the costs for another time.
I'm shooting for the room when I speak Italian, is a company of Bergamo which is visiting Chile for four weeks and are headed to Torres del Paine. It 's always nice to find fellow countrymen and exchange a few words.
We share, customs, passport control, visa, and then log in Argentina. We travel on dirt roads, and when we meet the two other bus drivers greet each other saying "Have a good trip" or "Good luck", a custom respectful of the traveler. Along the Argentine territory as I can see the green from the ground became barren steppe, and it is the characteristic of the Andes. The clouds from the water discharged from the Pacific to the mountains, creating the Andean Patagonian forest, 2,000 km-long, present in Chile in Argentina at the borders between the two states, then the clouds dissolve and that is why very little rain in Patagonia Argentina .
During the trip, Jerde projects a film that we found in the archives of the Xaverian Fathers. The film tells the story of a missionary Piedmont, Father De Agostini, its exploration and research nature. E 'useful to learn history and studies of our homeland, to my return to Italy I will document this great character. The film, entitled "Finis Terrae", has an introduction by Cesare Bonatti and is an edition of the CAI in Turin, Museo Duca Degli Abruzzi.
End projection and come to a little trip, where we stop to refuel and stop for lunch.
Log on a local, perhaps the only of the village and are greeted by an enormous Christmas tree all decorated, I remember that Christmas is upon us. I choose the menu, steak, fries, beer all 35 pesos (7 €).
Resuming the journey to El Calafante (A-LP 552), listen to CDs of Italian music and after two hours of travel to the infinite steppe fenced pastures and constantly beaten by wind, suddenly appears in the distance Lake Argentino, we now close to the town, crossing to the hotel which stands on a promontory overlooking the lake from here with the bay this time of year presents a wide beach, it will be the hot summer sun melts the glaciers and allow the lake level to rise.
A nice warm sun makes the day by encouraging them to visit the city, then, place your bags, take the shuttle bus to bring us into town.
Wandering in the town with houses built to a plan spend a nice afternoon, the group is fragmented among the many shops, while I devote myself to observe the characteristic of the city offers. Famous sportswear shops displaying items of import, including Italian brands, while others have the "Made in Argentina", I remain fascinated by clothing that is functional and well finished. I linger in bookstores, where a deeper knowledge of Father De Agostini, the video this morning and I understand that intrigued me was a great figure in the history of Patagonia. Too bad that the editions are sold only in English and in Spanish on my return I will try Italian documentation.
The restaurants of the city where they have enormous lighted coals, grilled, cooked whole lamb, first on one side and then the other, the meats are placed far away from the fire to cook slowly and completely degrease.
El Calafante, the birthplace of the President of Argentina and his wife, it is modern and its development has been achieved only in the last ten years.
E 'evening, we leave the city center and hotel where we go to a beautiful sunset over the lake below gives us hope for a good dinner, hot cheese fillet with potatoes and sweet.
After dinner there is a technical meeting because the group in the coming days will be divided, who will see the lake area and instead, people like me going to see the waterfalls Jguazù. During dinner, the weather is worse and can not go out for the rest, and for the strong wind that was raised and I think the weather will be tomorrow, I can see the famous Perito Moreno glacier?

I wake up at 6 and out the window the sky is cloudy and gray, to 6.45 when the alarm sounds and the sky has changed color is blue with some white cloud. Breakfast and then we prepare for the departure. I have the dilemma of what to wear because I do not know the places we're going to visit, I go for a medium tendency to wear heavy, always with the onion and anorak on hand.
Here comes the leader of this day, his name is Cesare, a boy who apparently looks rough, but only a few minutes later I realize that is kind, friendly, knowledgeable and during the day notice that has a big heart.
Upload your bags on the bus head towards the Perito Moreno, the huge glacier which I have only seen footage and photographs, greatly increases the curiosity.
During the trip Caesar gives us a confirmation that we can not make the trip on the ice because we had booked the day before, but not knowing this, we did not. The destination is about 80 km from El Calafante and reached through the road that runs along the Lake Argentino, the largest lake in the nation's huge extension, more than 20 km wide and a length of 100 km with a maximum depth of 750 meters. The name comes from the color of its waters and which are bluish as in all glacial lakes, this color is funded by floating microscopic sediments that give the color tones that vary with solar radiation.
Along the way we see the condor, we stop to admire the majestic and graceful twirl them, these birds with a wingspan of nearly three meters are the largest birds fly to the Andes, they feed on dead animals and it is only legend that kidnap lambs and children.
The area takes its name from Calafante, known for its fruit jam and liqueur that is produced, grows in bushes and produces fruits that turn blue when ripe.
We will pass by farms with average extensions 50.000/60.000 hectares within which arise concentrated housing, where you can find everything you need to make an independent community, while scattered in the pastures of the houses are built housing for pastors who follow the herds.
We arrive at a curve, known as the "curve Sigh" and in fact the end of it we are out of breath while admiring the grandeur of the enormous glacier, Perito Moreno, which appears in front of us, you see the south face a 2 km long wall and up to 50 meters high.
As we stop to photograph the glacier Caesar is busy with other guides in the ritual of mate: Pour dried grass in the bowl, add hot water and sip through a straw, which acts as a filter, the bowl is passed from hand to hand to all participants in the rite. E 'ancient custom, is used to being in the company and is a very common practice in Argentina. It seems that the grass has made a healthy, significantly lowers cholesterol and in fact the Argentines do not suffer from this disorder.
With the group decide to make a trip by catamaran to bring us closer as possible to the south wall of the glacier. All around the green mountains, here the soil is very acidic and can only grow a few wild plants and being here we can see some spring flowers.
Shortly after we arrived to the catamaran, $ 45 for the ride, we get paid for the ticket on board the vessel at a glance is filled with tourists and we sail for navigation on the green waters. We get about 300 yards from the imposing wall of ice, and only then can we stop access to the upper deck where the glacier can be seen in all its grandeur: before me there is a wall of ice that ends with peaks that rise to the sky defy the laws of gravity, the fantastic colors including white, blue green tones of damage only.
Slowly walk around the immense south face of the glacier and then returned to the starting point, we take the bus and head to the peninsula where the glacier ends. After crossing a forest in front of me, like a vision, you see the Perito Moreno glacier, which was created this enormous mountain of the Andes and after a run of over 30 km ends right here at the foot of the peninsula. From the vision is even more amazing, the view is lost in the distance, the white glacier looks like a long strip that mingles with the clouds that surround the mountains.
The glacier front is about 6 km, divided into three parts of equal width, the south side, the central part, where I am and the north side.
The site is equipped with metal walkways that facilitate the way for the visitors and allow to preserve the fragile soil, rich in plants and bushes along the walkways there are several vantage points from which enthusiasts can admire the breathtaking view of the central face. Every now and then the muffled sounds break the silence, the blocks of ice become detached and fall into the water. We cover more and more fascinated the walkways, stopping to take pictures and trying to figure out where the ice comes off, but only a few cases we are lucky to see the whole dynamic of detachment and fall of the ice.
After the hike we arrive at the restaurant, I'm making the last shot when the muffled noise reappears, I'm lucky to see water falling into a block of ice at least 50 feet long: a unique and fascinating spectacle.
It's time for lunch: soup, fillet with potatoes and fruit.
We return to El Calafante and waiting for the flight in the afternoon we have time to make the last walk in the town before leaving for the airport, the appointment is set for 16.20. But to find missing two people who had gone to look for a pharmacy. The tension increases as the departure time is close now. They begin the frantic search, we are divided into groups and begin following a trail well-planned research, but no trace. Finally Giorgio, Salvatore and Caesar makes a last attempt that proved fruitless, the two people seem to have disappeared into thin air, the tension is palpable. A call arrives, the two "missing" not seeing the appointment and I took a taxi to the airport. Climbed back on the bus quickly arrive at the airport where we find them: they have confused the location of the appointment. Fortunately we have time for flights. In fact, here the group split, with a group will fly to the Saviour 17.30 to Bariloche in the Lakes and the other group will fly to Buenos Aires at 18.40 to go see the waterfalls of Iguazu, at this moment is the ' Ambrogina investiture of a parent.
Caesar tells us that early flight to Buenos Aires, and fast check-in and then we start at 18.00 and shortly after take-off we can admire from the region of Los Glaciales on, over the endless Patagonian plains. The flight is quiet and as we get closer to Buenos Aires the sky is cloudy and at times we can only see the pampas below.
At about 20.30 and sunset comes shortly after we landed in Buenos Aires, here we find Diana, our guide takes us to the hotel. The temperature is hot, we change ourselves and we go out for a quick dinner. Being next to the pedestrian area, we head to a huge shopping center, an ice cream having the time to be just fine.
Returning to the hotel and turning on the tv, I can hear news from Italy, to know what is happening in my country is always an umbilical cord.

Wake up at 7.30 from the hotel window I look at the gray sky and the buildings of downtown, where tall buildings stand next to homes of low-rise, creating a chaotic and bizarre architectural diversity, fun to watch.
While we have breakfast we agree with Diana lap to accomplish and calibrate the tour as well for homework, asking for "tips for shopping".
We begin the rounds of the city from the Casa Rosada, since Saturday is open to the public would like to visit: the opening is at 10.00 but as you arrive before 9.00, we opt to see other places where we go and the first is in plaza de Mayo: A staircase to access the old Art Nouveau metro. Descending into the underground station can appreciate the structure dated 1913 preserved in its original state, as are the trains in service on the line, and currently only some of the stations, compared to the original location are still in operation.
Returning to the surface we continue by bus to Plaza Dorrego (A-LP 93), a short ride in a market square where this craft, then stop at Cafe Dorrego, local historian of the capital, the interior retains the structure of wood and furniture the first 900. Then take a ride in La Boca (A-LP 94), where can I change money and buy jewelry Rosacrosita, "the Argentina National piedra" What better Christmas gift for those dearest to me?
The morning is coming to an end and Diana has finished its work, before leaving us to see a library housed in a restored Liberty Theatre, where the bookshelves are placed on those who once were boxes and stalls. Some boxes still perfectly preserved and serve as a reading room in the orchestra pit and the stage was converted into a bar with its reading room, a truly beautiful and engaging.
Being a few blocks away we decided to walk back so you can see the city in its many forms, and colors come in a pedestrian area and we stop at the shopping mall "Galleria Pacific where, taking advantage of the many eating places, we a quick stop for lunch, enjoying a good steak on the grill. The afternoon is dedicated to shopping in town, turn to the shops located along the shopping street Florida, much frequented by tourists and Argentines.
The city is populated by a multitude of people from more diverse ethnic groups, shops are decorated for Christmas, the merchandise can sometimes seem expensive at times affordable, the quality of products is varied: from the mediocre to the valuable and finely crafted. In the evening when the shops turn to closing down the streets of downtown materialize a craft market, where goods ranging from cheap to valuable artifacts, here the inevitable tango animation gives the city a unique vitality. A reality that, look closely, reveals his great cosmopolitan city of contrasts, full of humanity, however, by homeless people who populate the streets and you see mostly in the evening, the harp, to the musicians, artisans who create at the moment their products by highlighting their art and skill, the woman sitting on a chair quietly nursing her baby, the seller of water and soft drinks in thermos, who dressed elegantly is making shopping a little melting pot of society than to a observer can not pass unnoticed.
Is approaching the hour of dinner, return to the hotel to change and then by bus just minutes away from the local "La Ventana - Barrio de Tango", a tango (www.laventanaweb.com), where seeing a show of sup tango dancing at the end of the nineteenth century found its origin in this city. Diana tells us that inside the room can only take pictures while it is prohibited to film, so who has the camera leaves them on the bus. The location is in Liberty style, the dining room has exposed red brick walls and tables are placed at the foot of the stage.
On the walls hang photos of historical figures including emerging Argentine Evita Peron, Fangio, Maradona, Che Guevara, Carlos Cardel (singer), Astor Piazzolla (accordion); seven arches support the perimeter walls of the boxes equipped with tables, while the ceiling is graced by Art Nouveau stained glass windows, the overall atmosphere is quiet and reserved.
Here comes the dinner, appetizers, steak with potatoes, sweet. All accompanied by a Malbec, a red wine area of Mendoza, ruby red, slightly acid flavor.
It's showtime: performance of tango, and Andean music in Argentina, the gaucho that spins wildly over the head and the sides of his body bolas, the orchestra of accordion with the great and incomparable master Juo D'Arienzo, finally closing the show with a tango.
Leaving the room we are greeted by the warm evening air, back to the hotel which is past midnight.

Part 1

7.00 When the alarm sounds, are intent on preparing the hand luggage to go to the waterfalls of Igauzù; breakfast, then leave your luggage in case we leave the hotel to the airport.
Since Sunday morning, the city is deserted, the sky is gray and the humidity is palpable, I begin to regret the fresh and dry climate of Patagonia.
As we skirt the massive Rio de la Plata known people who fish and others that are committed to jogging. On the other side, close to the 'Uruguay, the sky is white and bright, while the gray clouds above us and threaten shore shortly after it starts raining hard, the fishermen and sportsmen looking for a makeshift shelter, under bridges or plants.
We arrive at the airport, think of the time, since it did not rain yesterday, today, who knows what time we will find time to Iguazu and find others who will come to Buenos Aires? Since we're going to the tropics and the weather is very variable, I put it in your hand luggage against possible rain storm pants and jacket.
At the airport while waiting for the boat comes a group of older people, 34 are Italian, creating a chaos annoying, are disturbing to most of the passengers, I speak with some of them are from Piedmont and do not know exactly where they are neither going, nor what will go see, it seems that for them it is important to only take you around and being with friends, do not exhibit any kind of cultural interest.
When we board has just finished raining, now feel the heat and humidity. We take off and we are passing clouds in the blue sky, below us we see the green earth as far as the eye can see. Flying north, the landscape shows different from that seen in the south of the country, instead of the endless pampas appear green rivers and farmland, and then changes again, now fully grown can see the plain, a succession of forests and land well sorted and placed with true mastery.
We land in Iguazu (on LP-250) where we meet our guide, Ary, a character who evokes sympathy for the first time.
Got on a bus we head to the park of the falls and spend the whole day on the boat including an optional excursion to see the falls up close. Ary tells us that the falls are on average water flow of 1,600 cubic meters per second, but now after the rains flow rate of 3,200 cubic meters per second, a level that creates a truly exceptional performance unmatched.
While traveling, Ary tells us something about this part of Argentina is characterized by a fertile land of red for the presence of iron, here we are in the province of Missiones, whose name derives from the ancient Jesuit missions, which in the heyday reached 10,000 in the number of men working in this area.
After a journey of a few tens of minutes, we arrive at the park of the falls and leaving because they do not need to start the tour bus, taking a train that goes into the forest we enter the park along the Iguazu River, whose waters are red / brown . Being in a very humid place, I am struck by the absence of mosquitoes, but also fascinated by the presence of so many butterflies that color the environment making this magical place, a unique charm.
Once at the terminal station equipped to begin a course after 1.2 km boardwalk will lead to the Garganta del Diablo (LP C-253), a majestic and impressive leap.
As I walk down the runway, a butterfly alights on the back of my hand and hung on to me, my hand becomes the subject of nice photos, when will appeal the camera, leave the insect.
We arrived near the Garganta del Diablo, the impression is great, you see the mighty river disappear into thin air, like a bottomless abyss, and only leaning I can see the leap from the catwalks where the water falling on deaf ears, it becomes clouds carried by the wind quite steep there. To take pictures I constantly wipe the camera lens, is a series of spray and wash, but the charm of the place it deserves: I note that the water creates a foam vertical jumping in a few tens of meters into the river and reaching the underlying causes a majestic cloud.
After a long pause and being wet we decided to return to the station and as we walk the hot sun slowly dries our clothes and warm the skin. A movement in the river attracts our attention, is a caiman that quietly swims in shallow waters, while we see an iguana in the bush nearby and a multitude of colorful butterflies.
At the station take the train and go down to the station, where we stop for a coffee and a bottle of water, then c'incamminiamo towards the south of the waterfalls, walkways make it easy path, so we can easily overcome the branches River flowing into the impressive cataract. In some sections the terraces are located near the falls, and this allows very carefully, to lean on the vertical leap to get a really beautiful view. The environment is spectacular, the green plant is mixed with the red / brown water, blue sky with white clouds fragmented backdrop: a sublime vision.
The impressive waterfall consists of 265 jumps between major and minor, the biggest jump is almost 80 meters, the show is created by the mix between the amount of water and countless jumps. Continuing the tour we come to the Twin Falls, two waterfalls that appear identical angle, both in scope and how to jump: Here splashing water carried by the wind bathe us for the umpteenth time. Our route that winds through the rainforest, sometimes we caught glimpses of unmatched features of this wonderful corner of the world: the rainbow appears in the continuation and sometimes intersects with a second, the gaze is lost in the magic of colors.
Approaching the river reach the shore to begin sailing under the falls, as we prepare to board the boat, take off my shirt wearing raincoats and life vests. When boarding, we are given a waterproof bag where I put a camera, carrier and T-shirt, hoping that you do not get wet. Soon after, got on the boat party and we approach the impressive waterfalls in the vessel, the photograph is more difficult than I thought, and only with great difficulty and bumps can take some pictures of the river to waterfalls and views from the bottom reveals another aspect of their grandeur.
Suddenly the crew warned us to close the bags well, what happens? The skipper heads just below the falls, we are inundated by water, is a full bath, nothing is spared, if not as accurately placed in waterproof bags.
We leave the area and along the river along the banks covered in rainforest, see some birds, the noise of the boat, they rise in flight, past the rapids, a few minutes of browsing, we arrive at the port where cruise ships dock. Landing from the boat and wearing few clothes that I have stayed dry while the majority of sailors strips and screwing up his clothes before wearing them

Part 2

Few of the group change and the return on land is transformed into suffering, and perched along a path which leads us to the pitch ahead of the truck. Fatigue, exacerbated by the late afternoon breeze that brings the cold wet clothes, makes itself felt; ask a moment's pause to settle down a little but the few minutes we are allowed to spend quickly. The stand is still a truck that will take us to the bus, go up on the floor where the seats are placed and we start traveling in the forest at dusk. A guide will show you the details of the local plant and animal species, but honestly our only thought is to remove clothing soaked and cold we are enjoying the beauty of the day.
Finally we arrive at the van, and being in poor condition, we ask you not turn the air conditioning after minute ride we arrive at the hotel, a beautiful structure that is near the border with Brazil. When we come to the hall appaiamo in pitiful condition, the staff searches us well, please read the guide and understand that we veterans of the "wash" of the falls: for clothes drying offers the service that the hotel has available.
A nice hot shower takes away the final moisture of the body, but I have to dry clothes that I left the laundry. Luckily I brought spare trousers and shirt, at least I can dry clothes and presentable for the evening.
Dinner is classic, empanadas, grilled meat with vegetables, sweet. The spent quietly at the hotel after dinner, chatting, watching TV, listening to music, then go to sleep after checking that the laundry is dry.

After an almost sleepless night, the alarm rings at 6.00, has long been a heavy rain accompanies the rest, the sky gray and gloomy, does not announce anything positive. Breakfast and then head towards the Brazilian side of the falls, the border between Argentina and Brazil is a few hundred meters from the hotel, we reach them quickly outdated customs controls we approach the park.
In the path that takes about an hour I can see how the roads and infrastructure in Brazil are much more carefully than those of Argentina, but it will be the influence of two large Brazilian cities that are just a few miles.
Once at the center of the park for visitors to Iguazu (A LP 250), descend from the bus, without tickets can enter the protected area. Building as well as souvenir shops, there is a nice museum where reproduced the entire area of the Falls, with photos, models and archaeological finds in the area; a really interesting time and instructive.
Adjacent to the building there is a huge stand with double-decker bus that will take us to the falls, we try to access climbing to the top, but we must be careful that drawing water from plastic sheeting, however, we find the place and despite the incessant journey into the rain forest is nice.
We come close to a building that stands near the falls, get off the bus and we are greeted by the dazed sound of the river that flows into the powerful and fiery abyss, see the falls from this angle is really impressive. With a car to be lowered along the vertical wall, we are just in contact with the waterfall is amazing to observe how the water passes within inches of us, can see the brown, the white foam, here the noise is really loud and you can communicate only crying.
From this perspective, the view is charming, unique and majestic; hear the sound of millions of cubic meters of water flowing into the abyss is amazing, you can admire the dozens of jumps that make up the falls is wonderful. While we are photographing, the rain decreases but increases the wind that brings us to the water in the waterfalls, and the result does not change much: it is a continuous wet. But water is also a great opportunity to take photographs, with the constant change of light, becomes a unique opportunity to grasp the various nuances of color.
Given the time and the continuing rain, we decided to go back to our bus, stop at the souvenir shops, a hot coffee and then taking the bus through the forest coming to the tourist center where we can start to Argentina and now the only question is: how long will pass the customs? Along the way we cross a viaduct located on the Iguazu River, the natural border between three countries: Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Arriving at the border transit is proving a real dilemma, but all in all we do pretty quickly so we can stop for a stop in some local craft shops and minerals before leaving for the airport.
The subtropical climate is characterized by squalls and sun, and in these two days can claim to have seen them both being able to capture the many facets that the falls offer: a great experience.
Ary arrived in the airport structure salute and then await the boarding of the flight that will take us to Buenos Aires during the flight, as well as arrange the photos of the day, I admire the changing landscape, starting from the subtropical zone, crops, the endless pampas that ends near the capital. We land and meet Diana waiting for us, takes us back to the hotel where we change our suitcases for the return to Italy, in Milan the forecast rain damage, and prepare warm clothes and abandon the light clothes that are served in these days of subtropical climate.
One last look at the capital of Argentina with its festively decorated streets and thinking that Christmas is approaching, I can only observe the stark contrast climate.
We leave the hotel at 18.30, the planned flight was delayed for 21 to 23.15 and then we face a few hours waiting at the airport. You must really commit the time, there are those who read, who talk, who walks among the various outputs, the four hours of waiting passed slowly. We have dinner, watching the closed circuit TV will be enchanted by beautiful photos of Patagonia and relive the emotions try to see whales, penguins, elephant seals, semi-desert expanses, the magic light of Tierra del Fuego.
At the start, we're late for another hour, the plane fills up and then finally takes off, flying over the Atlantic and through a slight disturbance, dinner and a well-deserved rest, spend hours flying pretty well.

The blue sky gives us welcome you to Italy, landed the plane that is almost evening, the sun has gone down and only artificial light illuminates the airport and the forecourt. We pick up your bags, greetings to the group with the hope of finding ourselves in a next trip and then wait for Lorenzo to come and take us by car.
Upload your bags and, as in the going only with the movement from contortionists managed to get invaded by the passenger baggage, and finally we set off for Rovello. During the trip Lorenzo update us on the latest happenings in our little town, then come home and turn on the fireplace and the warmth of the flame heats the room, remove the clothing from the suitcase to find the packaging material that I purchased, which best chance to try it while unloading the photos on your PC? The card is transferring the images to be analyzed and place, while quietly sipping mate, this hot drink that tastes like grass, in the meantime, the mind goes through the many stages of this fantastic journey that will always remain in my heart for the beauty of its landscape, the simplicity of the place, for the vast and lonely Patagonia, to the imposing Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno for the spectacular and certainly not least the band members lived and with whom I shared this unparalleled experience.

Three reasons to make a trip in Patagonia

• For Excellence is the fantastic place that offers the opportunity to travel in immense size, wide meadows where animals graze undisturbed and has "rocked" by the force of the wind. The place where the sea shows its strength and where the land ends, leaving room for the ocean just before the Antarctic ice.

• The people with her beauty, her education and the beautiful Spanish language. The cuisine, unparalleled in meat, fish, empanadas, and the wine to taste and enjoy. Arts and culture of people in the attraction that becomes overwhelming at its best: the tango.

• Being able to observe the flora and fauna as in Patagonia is an opportunity not to be missed. The close encounter with many animal and plant species, alone is a reason to address this fascinating journey.

Acknowledgements

At the end of this work, I express my personal thanks to all those who have allowed the creation of this beautiful and fascinating journey, full of places, historical, cultural and natural but also imbued with humanity and dignity of peoples and of the people I got to meet. Gratitude to those who encouraged me and who helped me to realize this diary.


A special thanks to:
• Salvatore, head of Ciba Recreational Club, creator of the trip.
• Diana, Silvia, Andrea, Fabio; Aryo and Jerde, the guides who accompanied us for high professionalism, for bringing us closer with skill, preparation and absolute respect for the cultures and traditions of Argentina and Chile.
• Photos optical Luca of Balestrini Rovello Porro (tel 02.9675.2227) for the photograph given me advice and equipment.
• Laura who contributed to the presentation and the correction of the diary.

Bibliography

• The magazine - Cai - November December 2009
• Meridian Patagonia - Tierra del Fuego
• Thirty years in Patagonia
• Patagonian Andes

The Author

Eclectic, always discovering new for continuous improvement both personally and professionally for over 20 years has been active in training, initially for voluntary associations belonging to the "third sector".
In his professional career has been able to expand and develop their passion for training, planning, managing several adult education. He got results and appreciation from companies and voluntary sector where she worked for the research, selection, training and staff motivation.
He is currently engaged in multiple activities, both for companies and for associations, for which consolidates existing routes and develop new ones, always receiving a broad consensus and high esteem by all.
For years he discovered the pleasure of writing and publishing his diaries and in the multimedia version, fill it with photographs which has always been keen to make them exciting for those who read them.
Peter Fondrini
Teacher and trainer

Has compiled the following texts:
• Personnel selection: a path to be able to manage
• Handbook for emergency medical
• Manual for training courses


Among his courses and highlight successful initiatives:
• Method Vivos - The way to achieve excellent results through strategic planning of its activities
• Social Welfare and complementary - choices to build their own future
• Training supported (a great opportunity for companies)
• Mental coaching, or knowing how to progress towards ambitious outcome to overcome their limiting beliefs, difficulties or mental blocks.

It 's the coideatore www.lavorabene.it of the first portal for the intersection of supply and demand of goods and services for businesses, associations and citizens who seek comprehensive solutions and qualified.