Rio Caura, Salto Angel e Laguna di Canaima, Parco Mochima e Los Roques

This is the diary of my trip to Venezuela: in addition to the description of the places I visited included many practical tips and also prices of hotels, transport and many tips that may be useful to those who wanted to take a trip to this beautiful country.
Tot spending. Journey: 660 euro flight A / R Venezia Caracas $ 850 + holiday (all inclusive, even the souvenirs!)
Journey time 16 days

 

14th June 2004

After having attempted to take the plane the day before (the flight moved for a problem with the ticket), here I am, at Venice, ready to begin this adventure. After a whole day to fly me, my brother Richard and my cousin Francis, arrived in Caracas on 14 and 30. Once released from I suffered a first impact with South America: a myriad of people who try to change dollars, improvised guides who offer to help. After changing $ 150 (strictly to the black market $ 1 = 2500 Bolivares 1920 against the official exchange rate, but I subsequently discovered that in newspapers like the financial economic times these quotes are shown, for example at the end of June, the dollar is quoted at 2650 bs, so if you find the road to 2500 Bs do a very good deal!) we rely on Joel a place that the boy who offers to accompany us until Rodovias terminal, where we bought tickets to Ciudad Bolivar (Bs 24,500). The first impression I gave Caracas is a city of poor slums that are appearing on the green hills on dirt roads and many cars without license plates, people who rummage nell'immondizia, poverty and disorder. Once at the terminal, waiting to deceive us we are made to accompany Joel to eat chicken on the spit with spicy salsa and juca, a tuber similar to potatoes, widely used in Venezuela, especially in the south-eastern Europe: after having eaten two chickens at 4 and having drunk 3 beers to the head (I do not know whether it is the best way to prevent dehydration, but fits the same!) we welcomed our impromptu guide and we started at a time of Ciudad Bolivar, where we plan the excursion to Salto Angel.

After 10 hours of travel and having risked the frostbite we came to Ciudad Bolivar. Just at the bus station we met Carlos who has proposed 2 trips, one to Rio Caura ($ 110) and then to the Salto Angel ($ 160), including 2 nights in Ciudad Bolivar to the Union. After dormicchiato for a couple of hours we went for a walk on the Malecon dell'Orinoco: imposing a river, has nothing to do with our Po .... After drinking some Polar along the main street of the city to have admired the local sights, we went to take a nap: biggest mistake ever, six hours of sleep, so we left to have dinner at ten in the evening in a deserted city.
In the evening, in fact, because of the crime, the streets remain empty and only the police (many in fact) stationed close to the banks to jewelers and other possible local sensitive to possible robberies.

These are the 9 pm and we sat in camp on the banks of the Caura river: it was a beautiful day, a corner of paradise ... but let's go with order: 9 am start, pause for 10 hours a broken jeep, number of breaks to organize the trip, finally leaving on board a One, yes, you do not read bad, just a FIAT UNO in the forest! Four hours' drive, of which one and a half of dirt: a cool! A red road in the middle of a lush, green vegetation, however, interrupted by stretches cleared and burned ... the end of the trip to the Caura reach: a play, a black river (for the presence of tannin) and a peaceful and generous vegetation, life proliferates, butterflies, birds, flowers, fruits as big as watermelons ... To end the day we did a tour in the river, where we saw dolphins in the water indicate chiribito. The sunset is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen not even seem real, it seems a scene of a movie .... Now it's time to sleep outdoors in hammocks, on the banks of the river of course! ... We are in the Amazon (in fact, the Amazon is a little 'more to the south)

17 hours: they are lying in a rock of granite on the banks of the Rio Caura, taking care to 24 ants (so called because if you bite you give only 24 hours of life), which this morning, Francis was a delight to disturb! Let's go with order: this morning we had breakfast at the camp in the company of an animal called lapa, but my cousin is so determined to say it is a capibara! Once you have placed things in the boat we started on this adventure.
After ten minutes of exploration we have begun to see the first toucans and Neville, our guide spotted also healed mono (the monkey form of inhuman ways) but we are not able to distinguish between the vegetation. We were then led in the forest between the vegetation is less suffocating heat, even if the humidity is high, rain or not, however, the drops fall from the trees ... After switching to a zone just burned and cultivated with rice and juca, we crossed a stretch of forest to arrive in a black hill, made of granite covered with plant substances that damage the characteristic black: I swear that at first I thought they were rocks of volcanic origin! From the top of this hill the view is so extraordinary, when the heat is suffocating .... As you can see in the picture below you can see a long stretch of forest on the horizon and you can see the border with Colombia, all ' height of Puerto Ayacucho, an area where the Indians live Guahibo.
After this excursion into the forest we have returned to the boat with which we direct towards the island Jokori, where we saw the strange bird that issued the equally unusual ways and almost as large lucertoloni of iguanas!
After this visit we went on the island where we had to sleep in which we found our camp destroyed: the other guides before, in an attempt to burn a palm tree, they sent a fire in the hut where we had to sleep .... Just evil, so there is another hut, although not in good condition (has some hole in the ceiling, attention is not the one pictured below in comparison this is a 5-star hotel!). After downloading the food and baggage (I think here we can not leave them unattended ... there is a large traffic of people!), We went to visit two indigenous communities, and the Pemon Chirica. Dai Pemon have also purchased the items made from them, while the Chirica we failed to make the picture: they wanted the money in return! (Dai Pemon rather not have heard me to make images, already visiting the camp I felt a little 'an intruder, if I think their pictures ... it is as if the tourists would come to my house and we put more the Japanese to make them chase a kick in the seat and throw the cameras out of the window!). Despite being very close to each other, the two groups with different features and, to hear Neville, our guide, the Chirica are lower and even more stupid and not even the large workers. From these we have also seen how the juca, a tuber similar to sweet potatoes, are able to extract a flour used to make bread like piadina Romagna, but in my opinion less tasty .... The juca is the staple food of their power and is also used to produce alcohol with an alcohol content equal to that of wine. (I tasted it and it seems a yoghurt to cereals some 'alcohol, not much ...). To end the day we went to see two plantations pina, juca and trees, we have tasted the fruit of the cocoa (do not eat the seed from which it extracts just the cocoa, but the jelly that contains the seeds) and end we returned home (to camp) with the trophy, just picked a pineapple (delicious). Well, now I have a bath in the river, we hope that there are Pirana!

Rio Caura. The night was anything but quiet ... After having talked with Neville about his work in fantasy and have the possibility to open a tourist agency in Ciudad Bolivar, we went to sleep. 10 hours in absolute darkness begins to rain, but down a wall of water and Francis, who was with his hammock under a hole in the roof was hit by a river in full! An incredible dark, mobilization to move the hammocks! The thing that impressed me most is the darkness of the night: we are accustomed to the lights of cities and then, even if the sky is covered at night, we can not have a complete darkness here ... however, when it rains at night and the sky is overcast the dark impression ago .... The spectacle of the starry sky, then it is something incredible ... ..
11 hours in absolute darkness feels Francesco scream "whore!" On an ant, which fortunately was not a formal 24! In the morning, after having loaded the boat, we distributed to visit a neighboring island while Neville was preparing breakfast. After eating we returned to camp the first day, where we tasted the Lapa and we talked with a local boy, Kebin, the history of the Rio Caura: during the months of January and February, the river narrows and is filled with life: fish , capibara, armadillos, formichieri, jaguars, ... .., while the rainy season, despite less avvistino animals, the landscape is beautiful and the river has a decidedly maggiore.Alle 10:30 a.m. we went fishing for Piran ( that sharp teeth!) and then we went to retrieve some 'of Indians along the river. After lunch we left for Ciudad Bolivar, a jeep packed with the Indians (there were 11 more bags!). Hours 18 and 15 arrived in Ciudad Bolivar, and then a dinner cervese to "mi casa," the only room open at night!

7 am for breakfast and Canaima (tour at $ 150, $ 135 if we start from the airport of La Paragua)
8 am and 30: Departure by plane from Ciudad Bolivar tourism: The spectacle of Tepuis is fantastic, the lagoon of Canaima is indeed breathtaking, a myriad of waterfalls, one of the most beautiful. After paying the entrance fees (8000 BS) we started at a time of Salto Angel: 20 minutes walk 20 minutes to launch, then another 20 minute walk through the Sabana Mayupa, a green expanse like a savannah, surrounded by Tepuis, then 2 hours and a half runs through the rapids, to the vicinity of Salto Angel. From how I describe it would seem a walk, if there were rain and rapids that make the trip but fun. The program included a visit to the Salto Angel for the next day, but as the weather is beautiful, the guide decided to take today. After 40 minutes of walking we finally arrived at the mirador del Salto Angel. The majesty and beauty of the Salto is unspeakable: I have tried to focus on fixing the details of this show, hoping to be able to remember more things possible for this wonder of nature, but those that remain are the feelings of wonder that el'eccitazione this vision can inspire. Then do the bath at the foot of the waterfall, it was equally exciting ....
At 18 we returned back, take another washed memorable: at 19 and 30 were still in the jungle in total darkness. Other guides we have come to help and to return to camp we had to ford the river, the forest is this! Dinner and chat with the children who are accompanying us in this adventure: Jeroem, a Dutchman born in Mexico and living in London, Alice, and her Australian boyfriend Patrick, Belgium, in 6 months that they intend to visit South America (they are already at the fourth) and a Canadian family that run the world with their boat sailing: a very interesting ....

This time the night passed quietly, although it rained for hours, so the morning the river level was raised Carrao 1.5 / 2 meters. After a hearty breakfast we left for the Poso de la Felicidad, where we did the bathroom: beautiful! If you try to go behind the waterfall, challenging the strong current behind there is a cavity, as in fairy tales! 12:30 we arrived in Canaima and after eating we left for the tour of the waterfalls: the first was the Salto Golondrina, followed by jumping Wadaima and the most beautiful, jump Hacha. After this short tour by boat we continued on foot at a time jumping El Sapo, and here comes the good: first we have admired from below, then, something truly extraordinary, we have "passed through" from behind the waterfall, in a sort of cavity through the entire jump. This step was funny, because you create within the species of vortices of water that should be a slam against a certain violence, a sort of typhoon! We went then to the Salto Sapito and we admired the scenery you see from its summit: the extraordinary, a green meadow, with palm trees and tepuis in the distance. I can not understand how that beauty has not become a tourist attraction of mass bè ... more so, perhaps it is also why places like Canaima and Rio Caura I was so fascinated, charm enhanced by an awareness of being one of the few people to able to see these beauties of nature! To sum up the experience was exceptional, the Salto Angel is amazing, like all the other waterfalls, and the Rio Caura, I remained in my heart: the jungle, as inhospitable you can give the feeling that only a person who has failed here can understand, you create an attraction for these wild places, which also leads to forget all the inconvenience that you face, a region that advice to all lovers of nature and of strong emotions, you will not be disappointed!
In the evening after dinner we went to the party that had organized the villagers to Canaima, a lot of female soccer, watching as we tasted an alcoholic based juca fermented and then a dance party where I tried to experiment in the sauce with local girls which were kindly lent to get beat feet ... there was a commitment, I was not exactly a monster talent!

After breakfast, waiting for the flight to Ciudad Bolivar, we made a game of football: Patrick, Jeroem, me, and Francesco Federico against a group of Venezuelans, we lost 5-4 because we have suffered un po 'di più il ... suffocating heat.
Once arrived in Ciudad Bolivar, we greeted our traveling companions, and after changing a po 'dollars, we left for P. La Cruz (bus, 4 hours, Bs to 10,000 head, 51,000 car for three). Change in the money we have also risked a Pochettino there facts lead us to a room inside a Palazzone somewhat 'untidy (model Bronx) just entered our "companion" has closed the door behind us (as a lattice type of prison) and was in front of us a character that seemed out of "the godfather", colored shirt, cigar, rolex and chains d ' gold wrist, together with a gorilla than 2 kilos. As you enter, with some 'of the Winking we said we had to change some money and he, without hesitation: "Let me see dollars." Fortunately Francis said that the money we had left them at the hotel, I do not believe that he has drunk this bullshit, the fact is that, perhaps taken with pity, let us go, and there has even given his business card in case Had we needed anything! Once in P. La Cruz at 9 in the evening we stayed at the Riviera (three stars, triple the 70,000).

After breakfast (4500 BS), we left for the first excursion to the national park, namely the island Mochima El Faro (8000 BS), famous for iguanas that run to the beach. The island is empty, the beach clean but not particularly beautiful (there are white beaches ne ne palms), the reef, which is found only at the ends of the beach is nice but not exceptional, in short, was not a unforgettable trip. Francis today did not feel well, I hope for better tomorrow.

Francis is now even worse, so we decide to leave only two, this time with destination Santa Fe (1000 Buseto Bs). Upon arrival (40 minutes) have been tried on the beach a boat that made a trip to the islands of the park (Isla Caracas ARAP ARAP, pool ...): To our great surprise we met Patrick, Alice and Jeroem. In good company, we started to discover the most beautiful part of the park Mochima. Immediately, we met a group of dolphins, beautiful, then we came all'Isla Caracas, where we did a little 'for snorkelling. Later we landed on the beach Arap, with the adjacent "pool" very nice but nothing to do with the beaches of the Thai islands that I admired in my last trip. After snorkelling (I have also seen a race) we went to the restaurant where we ate good fish (BS 30000). Then we returned to Santa Fe and we ate ice cream with Jeroem, Patrick and Alice then greet, this time I think definitely.
From Santa Fe to stress, in my opinion, much more clean, quiet and cozy P. LA Cruz (it's also less expensive) and the council as a starting point to visit the park Mochima. We then resumed Buseto (it's a cool, colorful bus with the music at all volume), we managed to see Playa Colorada, from a distance is really very beautiful. During the trip we also know of girls who are proposed to come with us to Los Roques, I personally took time to see if freed in a suitcase, where they can hide .... Apart from the jokes were very kind we have followed to the hotel, but we told them "adios" because the next day we would finally due to go to Los Roques the last leg of our journey.

Stage of transfer to Caracas by bus, then at the airport by taxi (12,000 Bs to 25,000 Bs per bus taxi), then arrived at the airport, the surprise: no flight until the next morning, so we have made lead to Macuto hotels (hotel Santiago, 68000 for the three Bs), in the promenade. Dinner (Bs 51,000 for three) and then sleep, hoping to start the next day. (Flight Caracas Gran Roque-$ 150 A / R, but paying in Bs is like $ 110).

Hours 7 and 30, departing for the airport, change U.S. dollars in Bolivares (Bs 2400) and then departure for Los Roques. After 35 minutes of flight before us here is an extraordinary spectacle, a myriad of shades of blue, turquoise, purple, a breathtaking view. As soon as we landed Bs 25,000 paid for the entrance fee and then we went to the posada Magalis, the least of (triple Bs 35,000 a head, with breakfast and dinner). Here we have 2 boys Italians, just arrived in Venezuela and want to stay for another 2 ½ months. Having chatted a while ', we ventured back to the landing runway where a small white beach, with coral reefs: the snorkelling here is very beautiful, lots of fish, even if the corals are not particularly attractive, however the spectacle of colors is truly amazing. After the bath, we have organized the trip the following day: the most expensive trips are $ 20 and be careful: if you have to pay in Bolivares, $ 20 = 60,000, ie $ 1 = 3000 Bs, a cheat. In the evening, at sunset, we went to drink a moitié on the beach, beautiful .... Dinner with fish and then the evening in Bolivar Square, which is certainly not the Red Square in Moscow ... but it is nice, but not proliferation of life. The impression I had is now a beautiful archipelago, and fortunately has not yet been exploited by tourism, there are still large residence, only small posada, operated by Venezuelan and Italian. The atmosphere is that of the villages of southern Italy, a quiet place where everyone you know.

9 and 30 hours after a big breakfast we started at a time of Caio de Agua, which is one of the most beautiful beaches of the island ($ 20 dollars for the entire trip, drinks and meals not included). The departure was delayed about twenty minutes because of a violent shower, then on, starting in a sea of many colors. After about an hour navigation we are: the "vision" is extraordinary, a white beach, a strip of sand that cuts in two a turquoise sea and blue ... blinded by this beauty, we just walk on the beach, in search of points best for taking pictures. After spending about three hours to paddle in water and snorkelling are starting to direct Los Moschises island where you can visit the center for rehabilitation of turtles. After this stop we continue to turn the island of Esparky, where we do the bathroom in what I believe is now the most beautiful beach I've seen the archipelago (for Federico and Francesco Caio is de Agua, however, see the photos and judged for themselves: there is plenty of choice!). After taking photos of ritual start to return to Los Roques. As the first trip I was impressed by the beauty of these islands, a little 'less by the reef, even if the quantity of fish is truly remarkable. In the evening, as usual, cocktails by the sea to watch the sunset.

We agreed to visit the island of Norinkys ($ 10 without lunch), famous for the turtles lay their eggs there. The island actually consists of 3 atolls, each of which is divided by a sea of a few meters, as always, the show is great, the beaches white and the kaleidoscope of colors of the sea are now a constant! After exploring the island we spent the day snorkelling and sunbathing. The reef is not extraordinary in the most beautiful part is just so deep that you can not swim without being evil. Despite this, there are lots of fish and I was especially impressed by the turtle and sight of a school of barracuda. The day passed very quickly, this trip was wonderful. Maybe tomorrow we will go to Boca de Cote, the best place for snorkelling, there you may also find sharks, we hope to survive! In the evening, after the usual drink in the sea we did the usual round in the plaza Bolivar (ten meters in diameter) and have experienced two beautiful local girls. At 11 and 30 due to leave because I have since struck by the curse of Montezuma, I had to take refuge in the posada.

Today we made the trip most beautiful of all: at 9 we have agreed to visit Boca de Cote, a thin strip of sand that protects the southern archipelago of Los Roques. After half an hour of navigating to that which is paradise for snorkelling island, we have forgotten the mask and fins, a detail! Fortunately, we stop in what will be the second stage of this extraordinary trip, to make equipment for snorkelling. La Boca in Cote is a stretch of open sea where you can see turtles (views), barracuda (visas and definitely great), and sharks (unfortunately not seen). Since the open sea, the current is strong, as does the wave. Finally we see a beautiful coral reef, fish and beautiful depths of up to 15 meters at last I see what I see! After a time of about an hour, we started at a time of a palafitte fishing in a lagoon with a thousand colors, one of the most spectacular of Los Roques, in my opinion even better Caio de Agua. We paused for a mezz'oretta for photos of ritual: here you can find heaps of botuti piled up in stacks (some are live), starfish and a shell, we found even a moray! To finish the tour we finished Crasky, an island with an infinitely long beach and a blinding whiteness. In the middle of the beach there is a little house with a parrot and a restaurant overlooking the sea where the fish is cooked just caught. After you have eaten prawns and squid with arepas (a kind of fried polenta, used in place of bread), rice, salad and ice Polar (68000 Bs in 3), we are dedicated to relaxation and reading. 17 hours back home, shower, and now climbing the hill of Gran Roque to see the sunset, at the latest ...

This morning we explore Francisky in the company (despite our) of all Italians. Even this is extraordinary, a lagoon, the pool is wonderful for the variety of shades of blue, and for the beautiful reef fish el'abbondanza. Unlike most of the islands is of volcanic origin, even if the side that faces Gran Roque is a beautiful coral beach. Come evening, after countless baths, we return to the posada, where dinner with an Australian girl, a Texan and Gigi, a diplomat "forced" to come to Los Roques. Spend the evening talking about Venezuela, politics, travel, of marriages in Sicily, in short, un po 'di tutto!

After a while 'expense, salute Mary, the mistress of the house, a boy Gabriel certainly know that if you go to Los Roques, then leave for Caracas. I'm now writing the plane and I confess that watching from the archipelago, almost move me. I think back to the good times spent during this holiday, the people I met, to the beauties that this country can offer and I expect to be very fortunate to have the opportunity to live these moments. Board of heart to all those who are not travelers, and that if read in this diary to stop dreaming and say: "That must be nice, also like me ..." and buy a plane ticket and leave, it's so easy ... ... and do not regret it: to see the world and get to know new places, you just want it!