Tour of California (parks and cities), Arizona, Utah and Nevada. A stop in New York on the way back.
We went through a travel agency because the trip was also our wedding list, but with a bit of goodwill you can organise it yourself.
Flight (Lufthansa) for Italy-USA-Italy and United Airlines for the internal flights. Car (Hertz) for the tour (about 4,000 km). The Never Lost, or any satnav, is very useful.
In the parks Italian mobiles have no signal!!! We noticed it too in the first park: they are covered only by local operators with which Italians have no roaming. In any case, we had bought the “Columbus” phone cards in Italy, which are excellent for international calls (to landlines)!
Park entrances all cost around 20 dollars, but there is also an annual pass costing 80 dollars that gives free access to all the national parks (not the Indian reservations, such as Monument Valley). Still on the subject of parks, we practically “drove through” them, but you can also organise walks or horse rides (some on donkeys) and the like: it depends on how much energy and time you have!! At the entrance to the parks the rangers always hand out a map of the park and a little magazine (in some it is also available in Italian).
It is best to plan to dress in layers, because the climate is quite changeable and in any case the parks are often high above sea level, so in the evening and at night it gets chilly (even the Grand Canyon is around 2,000 m, Bryce reaches 3,000 and Yosemite even more). Also, San Francisco is almost always foggy and windy, so it is worth bringing a heavy jumper or even a fleece.
To spend less: 1. book online and without an agency (especially hotels and cars) 2. choose motels only (we had some mid-to-high category hotels) 3. always have lunch somewhere simple (we did allow ourselves a few dinners a cut above the average) 4. buy few souvenirs (and this is the hardest part!!!)
In general this is not a trip that leads you to talk to a lot of people: (apart from the odd mishap) you usually speak for check-in and check-out at hotels, park/museum entrances, restaurants… Americans are friendly and helpful in any case. Organised tours are available in various languages, including Italian.
And then grandma’s proverb holds true: “with a tongue in your head, you can go to Rome”… in her day (born 1912!!!) the difficulty was getting to Rome, but the point is that if you want to, you can go anywhere!
When traveling to the United States (or even just passing through), one must keep in mind that the first stopover on U.S. soil obligatorily requires immigration formalities (including reclaiming checked baggage). Allow for a connection that is not too tight for the onward leg.
The town is much smaller and newer compared to other metropolises, but a trip to Seaport Village definitely lifts your spirits and offers a lovely walk by the sea. For those interested in military things, there's the museum on the USS Midway aircraft carrier. The Gaslamp District is also distinctive (better in the evening: there are looooots of venues). Little Italy is definitely better than in New York!!! For the sea, unmissable are Coronado Island (where they filmed "Some Like It Hot") and La Jolla (there are even sea lions). Several friends had also recommended the aquarium, but we didn't have time to see it.
The Santa Monica Pier is truly unmissable, with its Ferris wheel, the amusements, and one of the many Bubba Gump Shrimp restaurants. But it's also great for shopping.
In Venice, the stroll along the beach is beautiful—where you really do see the Baywatch (lifeguard towers and yellow trucks included)—but also the outdoor gyms, the little shops selling souvenirs and cool knick-knacks, as well as more or less picturesque characters...
On our way to the hotel in Los Angeles, we stop on Rodeo Drive, following in the footsteps of Pretty Woman, and in fact we discover that the famous part is just a little stretch of a long residential street.
For the rest, Los Angeles is a collection of micro-worlds, each different and fascinating in its own way… Beverly Hills and Hollywood are a must, but it's better not to turn your nose up at a visit to the original settlement or the new skyscrapers either.
We tour it aboard a minivan with a Mexican guide (Davide) who speaks very good Italian and points out to us various spots we otherwise wouldn't have noticed or found (like the house from the TV series Charmed or the fake Empire State Building, used for the movie King Kong).
We also visit Universal Studios: actually more of an amusement park, but there are also some very famous movie sets (we pounced on the Desperate Housewives one, but there's also War of the Worlds, Jaws, and others).
Among the other things in Los Angeles, obviously the Walk of Fame (the one with the stars and the actors' names), the Kodak Theatre (the one for the Oscars), and the Chinese Theater (with the famous handprints).
This is a truly long leg (almost 800 kilometers), and indeed we set off in the morning and arrive at sunset.
We took a "lunch" break in Needles, a tiny little town right on the legendary Route 66 (filthy but delicious hamburger). And then also in Williams, a town (also on Route 66) that seems frozen a century ago: only the "saloon"-style doors are missing.
For the visit to the park, we'll dedicate tomorrow's day.
In the morning, the most bitter disappointment: due to a storm the night before, the Canyon is completely covered in fog and you absolutely can't see anything: worse than in Lodi in the dead of winter!!!!
But then fortunately it clears and we can admire the incredible work of the Colorado River. I will like Monument Valley more, but the enchantment of the colors and the cliffs is nothing short of breathtaking.
Driving or walking around, it's fairly easy to spot deer, squirrels, birds of prey, and other "wild" animals.
In Navajo territory, daylight saving time is not observed, so there could be time "differences." The Indians don't appreciate being photographed (you steal their soul), but for a payment of 5-10 dollars...
Entry to the park is not included in the annual pass of the American National Parks.
If you're lucky enough to book at the only hotel inside the reserve, I believe the spectacle of sunrise and/or sunset is especially spectacular (unfortunately we were outside the park).
In any case, for those who want to feel like they're inside a Sergio Leone western, Monument Valley is the right place: along a dirt path (red as fire!!!) you admire enchanting landscapes of wind-eroded stone and natural sculptures. In spring, moreover, you can even see some desert flowers (how they manage to grow, only they know!!!). For me, the most enchanting park of all!!!!
The dirt path can be traveled (with a bit of care and a lot of patience) even by "normal" cars, as long as it hasn't rained or isn't raining: in those cases it's better to rely on local guides and their 4x4s.
Bryce Canyon is in Utah, where the time zone changes compared to California, Nevada, Arizona (one hour ahead)!
Actually Bryce is an amphitheater of pinnacles born from the work of water and wind... Much smaller and more intimate than the Grand Canyon (and also less well known / signposted), it retains a charm all its own! We hadn't planned to visit it, but many people recommended it, we trusted them, and we were overjoyed!
The road connecting Bryce to Las Vegas crosses Zion National Park (and you must pay the entrance fee even if you're just passing through). In any case, a nice glimpse of a new type of landscape: more winding, with great contrasts between the red of the rock and the green of the vegetation.
Arriving in Las Vegas is shocking, because of the traffic, the lights, the music, the chaos...
We wanted to show off and stayed overnight at the Bellagio, but if I could go back, I'd change: staying at the hotel just long enough to sleep and shower, it's not worth it (a different story if you also want to enjoy the benefits of the spa, the pools, etc.). The Bellagio buffet is interesting; for all meals it offers the "all you can eat" formula at a fixed price (breakfast, I think, was 13 dollars per person).
Unmissable is the fountain show held at the Bellagio every quarter of an hour from sunset onward (we were lucky enough to catch it with Bocelli as the background music: goosebumps!!)
Every hotel also offers the possibility to "get married": I know some Italians do it, and some take advantage of it to renew their vows, perhaps on their 5th or 10th wedding anniversary... We didn't even look into it.
During the day it's much quieter, but even in May it's blisteringly hot: so it becomes inevitable to go in and out to get some relief, or to hunt for little bottles of water.
What to recommend seeing? Hard to say... For us Italians, certainly the Venice is striking, with the reproduction of the Grand Canal and the gondoliers singing "Volare" and "'O Sole Mio"... But there are also the reproductions of Luxor, New York... Or the M&M's megastores, the themed bars (from the Harley Davidson one to the Tropical Forest one)...
It's best not to stray from the main street (the Strip), because the rest of Las Vegas is really in bad shape.
Perhaps the shortest leg in terms of kilometers, but it's also the hottest, so before leaving Las Vegas it's a good idea to stock up on water, for the passengers but also for the car, in case of breakdown (at the 7/11 supermarkets they sell the classic gallons, which work just fine). I had also brought packets of Polase (I suffer from low blood pressure) and I must say we used them!!!
In Death Valley National Park there are several places to see, but you don't enjoy them much because you can't stay outside the car for long. In any case, definitely Badwater (the lowest point) and Dante's View (the highest).
Some also recommend the Crater, but in our opinion it's not really worth it (especially if you expect to find something vast or enormous). Others talk about the beautiful white sand dunes (they're there, it's true) from which to watch sunrise and sunset: maybe so, but they're not exactly close to the paved road, so you have to consider the possibility of having to walk a bit, even through scrubland...
In the park we were lucky enough to spot a coyote, but we were missing BipBip (the roadrunner) to feel like we were in a cartoon.
For this piece, it depends on the period in which you go, because the shortest road (which is still not very short: the never lost said 6 hours) passes through Tioga Pass, which is normally closed for snow between November and April. We found it open, but the lake was frozen, there was snow along the road and the thermometer read 13°C (quite a temperature swing, after the 41°C of Death Valley)!!!
This park is wonderful, but the waterfalls are visible only in spring (in summer-autumn they are dry and in winter frozen).
There are also the giant sequoias, so you can then skip Sequoia National Park.
In this park there are beautiful landscapes, besides the waterfalls: Mirror Lake, Half Dome and the Portal are among the most famous. And you can also spot many animals: besides the classic deer and squirrels, there are also brown bears here.
we take advantage of the morning and wander around the park some more and discover that there is also an efficient bike rental system available, for those who don't feel like walking, but don't want to use the car either.
Then we head towards San Francisco, where we will leave the car.
With its hills, it is practically very hard to get around on foot, so we opted for the public transport pass (including the characteristic cable cars, which absolutely must be tried!), so we can get on and off as we please.
Here we saw Coit Tower (nice view), Pier 39 (the legendary sea lions) and Fisherman's Wharf (with its little shops and restaurants).
In the afternoon we had booked the visit to Alcatraz (better to book, especially for the outbound ferry). The visit to the prison is accompanied by an excellent audio guide service, also available in Italian. Years later and despite the bad conditions, it still arouses a certain unease.
You must try the typical Chowder: a fish soup served in a mega-bread roll whose crumb has been removed. In my opinion it is outstanding!!!!
Day again dedicated to visiting the city.
We see Lombard Street (the most winding street in the world), the Golden Gate Bridge (beautiful: a nice walk across it is also worth it), the Ghilardelli pastry shop (the chocolate is very good), Golden Gate Park (not worth it), Haight Street (the hippie neighborhood) and Alamo Square (the Victorian houses are beautiful).
Of course we found terrible weather: lots of fog and a lot of cold, but they tell us it is normal and after all it gives a certain charm to the whole city.
The actual flight and the unfavorable time zone mean that the day passes entirely on the plane. We indeed arrive when it is almost evening, so we take a little stroll (Times Square is fabulous in the evening).
To hurt the wallet, but pamper the palate, we treat ourselves to dinner at the famous Sparks... The wallet is truly lightened, but the quality of the meat and the service is really excellent.
The next days (the last of our beautiful trip) are dedicated to New York (actually it's Manhattan), a very beautiful city, which must be experienced and explored and discovered.
I expected it to be more closed and oppressive, but in reality I find it to be an enormous city, with ample spaces and great organization. There are also many green areas, pleasantly equipped with chairs and tables available to everyone, without necessarily having to consume something at the little bar next to them.
For those who love theater, the Broadway show is unmissable. We chose the musical Chicago (at the Ambassador Theater) and it was a winning choice.
Also very beautiful is the visit to Central Park and going up the Empire State Building and Top of the Rock (at the Rockefeller Center).
For the rest, what can I say... You have to walk around!!!! The things to see are very many and well known. We avoided the wonderful museums because we had little time and preferred to look at the city and experience it.
Of course NY is also the city of shopping, starting from the Macy's department stores, to the Century 21 outlet, to the big stores, to the jewelers.
The biggest disappointment? The square in front of the Rockefeller Center, the one where in winter the skating rink is installed and the Christmas tree is set up. If you see it "out of season" it is a narrow little square, full of horrible bar awnings and umbrellas.
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